I got my Bridgestone bt-45s delivered yesterday and changing my tires is my next project. any tips for a first-time tire changer as far as correct bead seating and balancing. I don't want to do anything wrong or screw anything up. Starting with the front tire because I'm also doing a sprocket and chain replacement when I do change the rear tire
NEWBIE
This pertains to my interests as well. I'll be monitoring this thread.
The challenge is getting the tire on (the last like 1/5 of it), not the bead seating. from the tires i changed, the rear
was always the easiest, never had a problem with seating the bead. the front tire is a different story, for me it was
always a pain to seat that bead on the front. It will sit itself once you get some pressure going, dont pinch your finger,
the bead will 'pop' on.
Sunday I used zip ties to get enough starting pressure on the tire and help put pressure on it so the compressor
would push the seat on and was able to seat it finally. I use a 6 hp 8 continuous sqf compressor.
main things:
1) GOOD tire irons (i like motion pro spoons), I need two on dirt bikes and three on GS tire swaps
2) GOOD rim protectors (again, i like motion pro) or a cut mountain bike tire (redneck rim protector)
3) NEW valve stems (dont save 3 bucks here and regret it later)
4) Lots of lube (dish detergent with 2 thirds water)
5) DONT MOUNT EM BACKWARDS... chalk the rotation on the sidewall so you see it good. I messed up twice already and not notice until I had the wheel mounted, extra pain, sucks :icon_eek:
Don't force it, if you don't get the tire on the rim you could bend the rim. once you got it right, it
will go on with a healthy amount of pressure
Two years ago i had one that i could not get on for the life of me, brought it to a Harley Shop near
crane hwy and they put the tire on (front), guess what, they had to use a bead booster to seat it,
had some evil name for that thing, after they used it, i knew why...scary stuff.
Balancing, easy, watch on youtube, i use a harbor freight balancing stand and weights, works good enough and paid for itself with first tire change :thumb:
I got the bead broken on one side but the other size is the hardest thing ever
NEWBIE
Just do some youtube searches
lots of great videos with great tips and hints
use good tire irons
use good rim protectors (can be made from Orange juice jugs)
Go get some "real" tire lube from the auto parts store (yeah, guys use soapy water, or wd 40, or pledge etc.)
you can make a bead breaker for 0.50c from a 2x4
you can make a wheel balancer from a 2x4 and a couple of bearings taken out of inline skate wheels
Quote from: newbie1993 on March 25, 2014, 07:07:48 PM
I got my Bridgestone bt-45s delivered yesterday and changing my tires is my next project. any tips for a first-time tire changer as far as correct bead seating and balancing. I don't want to do anything wrong or screw anything up. Starting with the front tire because I'm also doing a sprocket and chain replacement when I do change the rear tire
NEWBIE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=grunCumm8go
Quote from: newbie1993 on March 25, 2014, 07:07:48 PM
I got my Bridgestone bt-45s delivered yesterday and changing my tires is my next project. any tips for a first-time tire changer as far as correct bead seating and balancing. I don't want to do anything wrong or screw anything up. Starting with the front tire because I'm also doing a sprocket and chain replacement when I do change the rear tire
NEWBIE
For the bead breaker, wheel balancer, and tire irons, go to Harbor Freight (if you're in the US). I was able to get all for $60. Now I can change my own bike tires for the rest of my life. My local Cycle Gear would have charged $30/tire to mount/balance.
For tire lube, use water-based personal lubricant. KY Jelly works. It is slick as snot, but once it dries it disappears. This gives you adequate lubrication to mount the tire on/off the rim, and then you won't have residual soap or grease in the tire causing it to slip on the rim. I wouldn't use dish soap because most contain phosphorous (phosphates?) that can damage certain metals.
Expect to scratch the rim your first time. Expect to buy some touch up paint.
Do buy rim protectors. 3 is adequate.
Do buy a valve stem installer tool. Do buy new valve stems (get short stems for motorcycles).
When seating the bead, if you cannot get enough seal to inflate the tire (40PSI MAX!), use a ratcheting cargo strap around the circumference of the tire to cinch it down.
When balancing the wheel/tire, make sure you've installed the sprocket and rotor. These parts can affect balance.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-PD48uGl4o
This seems to be the method of choice lately on youtube....looks great....no tire irons to fluk up your nice rims!!
Also costs almost nothing $$$$
Cookie
Quote from: newbie1993 on March 25, 2014, 07:07:48 PM
I got my Bridgestone bt-45s delivered yesterday and changing my tires is my next project. any tips for a first-time tire changer as far as correct bead seating and balancing. I don't want to do anything wrong or screw anything up. Starting with the front tire because I'm also doing a sprocket and chain replacement when I do change the rear tire
NEWBIE
Quote from: dinkydonuts on March 26, 2014, 03:23:54 PMWhen seating the bead, if you cannot get enough seal to inflate the tire (40PSI MAX!), use a ratcheting cargo strap around the circumference of the tire to cinch it down.
Seconded, this is a very easy way. Actual ratcheting part over top of where the bead's not seating. A few clicks and you should hear it 'ping' right into the seat.
Opinions on using powder instead of soapy water?
Quote from: twocool on March 26, 2014, 03:34:35 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-PD48uGl4o
This seems to be the method of choice lately on youtube....looks great....no tire irons to fluk up your nice rims!!
Also costs almost nothing $$$$
Cookie
Quote from: newbie1993 on March 25, 2014, 07:07:48 PM
I got my Bridgestone bt-45s delivered yesterday and changing my tires is my next project. any tips for a first-time tire changer as far as correct bead seating and balancing. I don't want to do anything wrong or screw anything up. Starting with the front tire because I'm also doing a sprocket and chain replacement when I do change the rear tire
NEWBIE
i tried this for giggles...didn't work at all for me..took me longer to get the zip ties on than changing the tire with spoons
With 6 zip ties on i still couldn't get it over the rim :icon_rolleyes:
I never heard of using powder for putting a tire on....we use powder inside the tire and on the tube for TUBE type tires to keep the tube from binding inside the tire. anti chafe rather than slippery lube..
For tubeless tires I think you'd better stay with the liquid lube...
Quote from: cWj on March 26, 2014, 06:11:54 PM
Opinions on using powder instead of soapy water?
Quote from: cWj on March 26, 2014, 06:11:54 PM
Opinions on using powder instead of soapy water?
Are you talking about baby powder or talcum powder? Either way, you really need as much lube as you can get when mounting tires by hand. Plain water would work if you had enough of it.
But really, a tube of KY Jelly is $3 and is slick as snot and won't leave behind any corrosive residue like dish soap.
I always used liquid dish wash soap to lube tire beads when changing tires. It's free if the wife doesn't catch you. And as mentioned again recently an old Escort was the best bead breaker I've used. Put tire/wheel under side of car with jack base on tire close to rim and jack it up a bit and pop. Only used one long curved lip tire uron and a large screwdriver to R&R tires from rims.
I tried using the longest screwdriver I had and could only get one side of the tire loose from the rim. So now my tire changing project is on hold till my tire spoons, rim protectors and dynabeads come in the mail
NEWBIE
A valve stem installer tool is nice, but not necessary. We use diagonal cutters placed just below the threads to pull them through.
As someone else said, go out and buy some real tire mounting lube/paste. I work in a tire shop for a living, and my life became a thousand times easier when we switched from soap-and-water-based lubricants to the paste. The reasoning for the switch was that water-based lube supposedly promotes galvanic corrosion along the bead line. I'm not sure how much of a difference it actually makes, but it does make tires go on a hell of a lot easier.
Quote from: Leadberry on March 27, 2014, 03:06:43 PM
A valve stem installer tool is nice, but not necessary. We use diagonal cutters placed just below the threads to pull them through.
As someone else said, go out and buy some real tire mounting lube/paste. I work in a tire shop for a living, and my life became a thousand times easier when we switched from soap-and-water-based lubricants to the paste. The reasoning for the switch was that water-based lube supposedly promotes galvanic corrosion along the bead line. I'm not sure how much of a difference it actually makes, but it does make tires go on a hell of a lot easier.
You have any brand names for that that tire mounting lube? And does it also work for removing tires from the rim?
NEWBIE
It works both ways. Makes everything slippery. You should be able to get it at your local Autozone/O'Reilly/Advance etc.
Edit: It comes in a bucket, like this:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/XTS0/14700/N0982.oap?ck=Search_N0982_-1_2371&pt=N0982&ppt=C0192
You may be able to find smaller sizes, not sure. A bucket that size lasts forever in the shop.
Quote from: newbie1993 on March 27, 2014, 03:10:17 PM
Quote from: Leadberry on March 27, 2014, 03:06:43 PM
A valve stem installer tool is nice, but not necessary. We use diagonal cutters placed just below the threads to pull them through.
As someone else said, go out and buy some real tire mounting lube/paste. I work in a tire shop for a living, and my life became a thousand times easier when we switched from soap-and-water-based lubricants to the paste. The reasoning for the switch was that water-based lube supposedly promotes galvanic corrosion along the bead line. I'm not sure how much of a difference it actually makes, but it does make tires go on a hell of a lot easier.
You have any brand names for that that tire mounting lube? And does it also work for removing tires from the rim?
NEWBIE
you need to get the angle right, getting the tire off should be fairly easy if you have the right angle on it. Getting the tire on (the last half foot or so) is the real challenge. Again, possible, with the right angle. Don't force it too much, re-adjust and try again
I got the new front tire on the rim. The yellow circle marked on the tire should be right above the valve , right?
NEWBIE
Oui, monsieur. Dot over stem.
I used the Ziptie method... It was so rediculously easy i stood there somewhat dumbfounded after I put it on.. like Wow..
AS for balancing... idk... Last summer i put 14,000 miles on my fz6 changed both tires at the begining of the season, and rear about mid way through (Dunlop Q2's dont last all that long). and i never balanced a one of them. Never had any vibrations.. Same goes for the Pirelli Angels on my friends buell 1125r, as well as another rear tire on another friends fzr6.
Quote from: The_Paragon on March 28, 2014, 10:41:13 AM
I used the Ziptie method... It was so rediculously easy i stood there somewhat dumbfounded after I put it on.. like Wow..
AS for balancing... idk... Last summer i put 14,000 miles on my fz6 changed both tires at the begining of the season, and rear about mid way through (Dunlop Q2's dont last all that long). and i never balanced a one of them. Never had any vibrations.. Same goes for the Pirelli Angels on my friends buell 1125r, as well as another rear tire on another friends fzr6.
you did that on the GS or on the FZR? I can see how it might be easy on some rims, but on the GS it didnt work for me at all. Perhaps that tire was too stiff @ 40f? Anyhow, I stick with spoons :)
Quote from: The_Paragon on March 28, 2014, 10:41:13 AM
I used the Ziptie method... It was so rediculously easy i stood there somewhat dumbfounded after I put it on.. like Wow..
AS for balancing... idk... Last summer i put 14,000 miles on my fz6 changed both tires at the begining of the season, and rear about mid way through (Dunlop Q2's dont last all that long). and i never balanced a one of them. Never had any vibrations.. Same goes for the Pirelli Angels on my friends buell 1125r, as well as another rear tire on another friends fzr6.
didn't have zipties so created my own method. I used a padded vicegrip and a bunch of shoestrings. It took about 1 minute to get the tire on with my method
NEWBIE
Many say that balancing in totally unnecessary for motorcycles, unless you go really fast!
Cookie
Quote from: The_Paragon on March 28, 2014, 10:41:13 AM
I used the Ziptie method... It was so ridiculously easy i stood there somewhat dumbfounded after I put it on.. like Wow..
AS for balancing... idk... Last summer i put 14,000 miles on my fz6 changed both tires at the begining of the season, and rear about mid way through (Dunlop Q2's dont last all that long). and i never balanced a one of them. Never had any vibrations.. Same goes for the Pirelli Angels on my friends buell 1125r, as well as another rear tire on another friends fzr6.
Quote from: twocool on March 28, 2014, 05:33:47 PM
Many say that balancing in totally unnecessary for motorcycles, unless you go really fast!
Cookie
Quote from: The_Paragon on March 28, 2014, 10:41:13 AM
I used the Ziptie method... It was so ridiculously easy i stood there somewhat dumbfounded after I put it on.. like Wow..
AS for balancing... idk... Last summer i put 14,000 miles on my fz6 changed both tires at the begining of the season, and rear about mid way through (Dunlop Q2's dont last all that long). and i never balanced a one of them. Never had any vibrations.. Same goes for the Pirelli Angels on my friends buell 1125r, as well as another rear tire on another friends fzr6.
would you recommend not balancing a tire though?
NEWBIE
I mounted my own tires for years and never balanced them. Good tires don't need much lead, the weights on them are mostly for the cast wheels. Never had a problem with them but never went much over 70 mph on the 4 old Hondas I mounted my own on. Only went 100 mph on a GS and that was after I quit doing my own and it had good radials mounted and balanced on it. Can't say how you'd do with unbalanced tires at the higher speeds.
The guy at my dealership says that with motorcycles you're mostly balancing the rim rather than the tire; as such he generally leaves the weights as is and check the balance with the new tire and only makes changes as needed. He also said that generally if it's off by less than 3 oz you won't even feel it.
My front wheel was perfectly balanced without any weights on it. The rear had a weight on it from the factory and was off by 1 oz; with it removed it was still off by an oz (probably different spot), so he just added that oz to get it perfectly balanced.
I got my tire back on the rim. I have no weights to balance them Im just wondering if I absolutely need to balance them. The fastest I've every gone is 90 and that was with dry rotted factory tires
NEWBIE
I would neither recommend nor not recommend....I'm just saying that many, many experts say it is unnecessary.
I like doing stuff myself. I like doing cool stuff on the cheap. As I mentioned, I made my own balancer from crap in the garage for $0....2x4's and roller blade wheel bearings.....
So I balance my wheels whether they need it or not...
BTW....I just had 4 tires put on my car...had the local vo-tech auto school do it for free....they didn't balance the tires....car rides great...not worried...
Cookie
Quote from: newbie1993 on March 28, 2014, 05:35:01 PM
Quote from: twocool on March 28, 2014, 05:33:47 PM
Many say that balancing in totally unnecessary for motorcycles, unless you go really fast!
Cookie
Quote from: The_Paragon on March 28, 2014, 10:41:13 AM
I used the Ziptie method... It was so ridiculously easy i stood there somewhat dumbfounded after I put it on.. like Wow..
AS for balancing... idk... Last summer i put 14,000 miles on my fz6 changed both tires at the begining of the season, and rear about mid way through (Dunlop Q2's dont last all that long). and i never balanced a one of them. Never had any vibrations.. Same goes for the Pirelli Angels on my friends buell 1125r, as well as another rear tire on another friends fzr6.
would you recommend not balancing a tire though?
NEWBIE
Tire is on the rim, bead is seated and the tire is aired up to 41 psi as the instructions say
NEWBIE
I'm gonna take pictures of my rear sprocket so I can get your opinion on whether its time to replace it. If not im just gonna replace the rear tire and then it's on to the next project
NEWBIE
Quote from: newbie1993 on March 28, 2014, 07:44:23 PM
I got my tire back on the rim. I have no weights to balance them Im just wondering if I absolutely need to balance them. The fastest I've every gone is 90 and that was with dry rotted factory tires
NEWBIE
3 bucks for 20 weights @ harbor freight. this takes all about 5 minutes
on my daily rider they fell off within a week of the shop mounting them in 2010, i got
slightly more vibration when riding over 70mph. at 85-100 mph the bike vibrated a lot
to the point where my hand fell asleep. However i hardly ever went over 70-75
haven't lost one of the HF wheel weights yet. last wheel needed one weight only, guess where,
exactly where the old one was... replaced a metzler with a duro, so must really be the rim
hey newbie, you didnt happen to get that tyre off of ebay did you? ;) i was about to buy Bridgestone bt-45s on ebay and somone beat me to it haha
To balance my tires I have a rod that I place between two screws in the support beams in my garage, levelled. Place the wheel bearings on the rod and set it between the beams. Spin the tire a couple of times and let it rotate until it stops. The highest point is where it is lightest. Try it a couple of times to make sure you have the spot in the right place.
Place a weight temporarily at the high spot, spin it again. If the weight stops between 45 and 135 degrees from vertical then you are good. Too much weight more than 135 degrees, to little less than 45 degrees, add or reduce weight until it stops in the 45-135 range.
Now add a second weight it necessary at the top again. This weight will be smaller than the first, start with about half the weight you used on the first step. Spin the wheel again a let it stop. If it stops at random points you are finished. If not then increase or reduce the weight of the second weight until it stops at random points.
Properly balanced motorcycle wheels require no more than two weights with the second weight being between 45 to 135 dergrees from the first weight. Sometimes one weight will do it.
Your objective is to have the wheel-tire assembly stopping at random points (never in the same place) on the last check after the last weight install, with no more than two weights total and those two weights separated by no more than 135 degrees of the circumference of the wheel-tire assembly.
regards
Mech