So im kind of confused as to why this would happen. Finally got my bike started after checking both the spark plugs and although they were a tad black there was no oily residue or anything. so i started it again and seemed fine with the choke on and it climbed to 4k rpm but if i turned the choke off even after the bike was hot the bike would die. But the really strange thing is it will only stay on with the choke on if its on the kick stand. As soon as i set the bike upright it will immediately start to die unless i set it back down on the kickstand then it will rise back to that 4k with the choke. I checked the search and it seems only 1 other person had the same problem but i didnt see a solution. Ideas? Has plenty of gas just filled it up the other day and havent ridden more than 10 miles on it since. Got gas from the same place i always do.
Do you have inline filters installed?
They may be a little blocked which would cause this
I had a similar problem.
No I do not have one after what I've been reading in different posts maybe I should install one. Had the carbs cleaned and needles replaced a few weeks ago so I figured it should be fine. You thinking the jets are clogged? Or the needles staying open?
Sounds like incorrect float levels to me.
Macka
I might add that I have been running in-line filters on main and reserve hoses since new (3 1/2 years) and have never had a problem. It revs cleanly to 9500 which is as high as I ever go. :thumb:
Macka
floats!
Alrighty looks like I'm pulling the carbs soon and checking the float heights. Thanks guys
Yeah, my initial thought was float heights as well. Left carb fills first on side stand.
Sometimes even if float heights are set properly, but they are a little out of sync, the revs might lower a little when you go from sidestand to upright - choke or not, though probably more noticeable without choke. This circumstance wouldn't kill the bike though... But, I'd suggest a carb sync once you adjust float heights.
Remember you can check float heights while they are still on the bike using the clear U-tube method. Hook up a clear tube to bowl drain, bend upward (U-shape), petcock on prime, open drain screw - and see what level gas goes up to - should be level with the float bowl gasket.
- Bboy
Well i dont think its the floats. Double checked each side using the tube method and unless i messed it up both side once i got all the air bubbles out by flicking the tube and keeping the open end above the bowl gasket, they came to the bowl gasket or pretty close all four times. Any new ideas? I could take the carbs out and check them that way if the floats are still the main concern
Update: So after checking the floats i decided hey why dont i try and start it for shits and giggles since the bike is now completely dry and has been sitting in the sun for a few hours. It started right up and ran no problems, no problems with the throttle either. So now i've come to the conclusion that the bike is either cursed or has some electrical exposure that when it rains causes a bunch of problems. Any ideas where to start?
Gremlins :)
I've run thru monsoon like rains on both my 97 and 02 GSs quite a few times doing 180k GS miles and never had a problem starting or running caused by getting it wet except when I had a loose spark plug wire in a coil. GS plug wires are screwed into the coil and bonded in place and won't turn. They are sold as a unit, coil and wire. Check to see if you can twist either wire and if so a temporary fix can be made by unscrewing it, cutting off a quarter inch of wire, and putting a big dab of dielectric grease on the end and screwing it back in as tight as you can get it.
Bingo. The left side wire will turn but the right one wont. So where can i get a new set? Ebay? i dont know if i can do all that cutting and screwing it back in and what not. Seems a little over my head i wouldn't want to mess up anything else by screwing it up if thats possible.
Proper way to fix it would be to buy the bonded coil/wire assembly from Suzuki or ebay maybe I suppose but I just trimmed the wire and screwed it back in on my 02 years ago but that's not a permanent fix. I just fix it again every year when I did valve check, the simple fix was good for a year and 10k miles or so.
Just unscrew the wire from the coil, cut off about a quarter inch with cutting pliers, and screw it back in tight with a big dab of dielectric grease on it to keep water out. Couldn't be simpler, I can do it now without removing the gas tank but wish I had just replaced coil years ago. :icon_razz: