Bike turned on, running.
3 yellow wires coming from the engine connect to the rectifier.
I set my multimeter to "ACV 200". I put one of the meter leads into the back of the connector for the stator. The other lead goes into a different slot of the connector. (I can see that both leads are touching the metal part of the wire)
At 1200 RPM, the output reads around 11 volts. If I rev the engine, it actually drops down to 9 or 8 volts between 4000-5000 RPM.
Then, I switch the multimeter to "DCV 20" and put the negative meter lead on the negative terminal of battery. The positive meter lead goes to positive terminal of battery.
At 1200 RPM the output reads around 12.7 volts. If I rev the engine to around 4-5000 rpm, it reads 13.8.
What the heck is going on? About 2 weeks ago I noticed that the tachometer needle was shaking above 4000 RPM, so I rode home and tore it down to check everything. I can't say that the battery has died since I haven't ridden under these conditions for long enough. Additionally, I've had the battery on a trickle charger while at home.
Here's the process to test your charging system:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=38480.0
Doh. I didn't realize you had to disconnect the stator plug from the rectifier plug.
With it UNPLUGGED, idle voltage is around 16 volts (AC) and at 5000 rpm it is around 65 volts (AC).
According to the how-to, this is about 10 volts lower than it should be.
Would that warrant replacement of the stator?
Not too clued up with charging systems, but 65v seems ok.
Don't know if this will help but here is an experience I had. My R/R is wired straight to the battery via an in-line fuse. A while back I was getting sluggish charging so I actually soldered the wires directly onto the fuse (kept the old fuse holder in line in case said fuse blew), and that fixed it.
Just covered this in another thread.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=67412.0
Have you checked you stator for continuity to ground yet?
Quote from: cWj on July 02, 2014, 08:10:51 AM
Just covered this in another thread.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=67412.0
Have you checked you stator for continuity to ground yet?
Yup and didn't see any readings when pairing a stator wire with ground.
Now the issue I'm tracking down isn't necessarily a charging issue or dead batteries, so I may not see things at a certain seveirty. It's a bouncing tachometer needle, which on an electronic tach bike, is generally due to electronic faults.
I think I'm just going to bolt her back up and ride until something bigger happens. More than likely I caught an early symptom of SOMETHING failing, but don't know if it's the stator, R/R, battery, or heck it could be the tachometer itself dying.
Dirty/loose connection? :dunno_white:
hehheh.
I said "dirty" and "loose".
Quote from: cWj on July 03, 2014, 08:26:32 AM
Dirty/loose connection? :dunno_white:
hehheh.
I said "dirty" and "loose".
I've cleaned all connections that I can access with some CRC QD electronic cleaner.
Went for a ride today and when I got back I put it on idle and took a voltage reading. 1200 RPMs and the voltage at the terminals was 12.30. Turned off the bike and checked voltage an hour later and it was back at 12.66 (bike not running).
I was under the impression that voltage while the bike is running, should be HIGHER?
put the brobes on, let warm up, let it idle, watch numbers for a few minutes.
do they keep going down? If so: problem. i'd say 12.3 idling at 1200k seems right for a batt charged to 12.6 at rest.
Speaking of which, how old it? Any cells dry?
But I'm guessing. Hell, I thought 1200 for an idle peed is low.
Quote from: cWj on July 03, 2014, 09:45:04 PM
put the brobes on, let warm up, let it idle, watch numbers for a few minutes.
do they keep going down? If so: problem. i'd say 12.3 idling at 1200k seems right for a batt charged to 12.6 at rest.
Speaking of which, how old it? Any cells dry?
But I'm guessing. Hell, I thought 1200 for an idle peed is low.
Battery is not even a year old. Had to buy a new one early this spring because the previous one just mysteriously died one day. It's a run of the mill Wal Mart battery with the reverse terminals. All the cells are filled to proper level.
Well I'll be damned. It must have been a bad ground somewhere because the problem is GONE. Charging is back to normal and no more tach needle vibe!
:thumb:
#GoRide
FOUND IT
The wires behind the tachometer must be touching/rubbing when assembled and causing the short. I don't see any exposed wiring, but I think I saw the 2 wires going to the tachometer bulb just barely melting against one another.
I'm going to try and wrap each wire with electrical tape, but man what an odd place to cause the issue.
mech clox ftw :icon_razz:
Quote from: dinkydonuts on July 07, 2014, 04:10:06 PM
FOUND IT
The wires behind the tachometer must be touching/rubbing when assembled and causing the short. I don't see any exposed wiring, but I think I saw the 2 wires going to the tachometer bulb just barely melting against one another.
I'm going to try and wrap each wire with electrical tape, but man what an odd place to cause the issue.
If it is a short here it would be pure coincidence that it was the tachometer light that was shorting, and I would expect the tachometer light to be cutting out if it were shorting (granted you wouldn't notice during day riding).