Ok, so I finished the recommended break in mileage on my rebuilt motor, time to change the oil!
When I bought the bike last year it had fresh oil, and since I only ordered one filter I decided to run the break-in on the used filter and change to a new one when I went full synthetic. Not ideal but I had to play the hand I was dealt. So what that all means is, this is the first real oil change I'm ever doing.
Well, taking off the cover for the filter I notice one thing right away. One of the bolts is now a stud with a nut... :mad: So the previous owner messed something up, but it's no biggie because the bike is not perfect anyway.
I take it off without hassle, and the other two bolts come out no problem. Change the filter, change the gasket, now I'm going to put it on.
I know the block is aluminum and will strip if I crank on it, so I am palming the ratchet and go to put the bottom bolt on. Loose, loose, snug, loose... :sad:
So now I am cleaning the aluminum off the bolt and I notice one of the bolts is about a quarter inch longer than the other. I try that one in the hole I just stripped, again palming the ratchet. Loose, loose, snug, snugger, done! Put the short bolt in the last hole and get it good as well. Stud and nut was no problem.
I added oil, no leaks, idled the bike for 10 minutes, no leaks, rode down the road for gas, no leaks, and had it up to highway speed, no leaks. :bowdown:
But I don't trust it to hold up forever, so I want to change the oil again ASAP and fix this issue. I'm leaning towards loctiting studs into the block like the one already is, but my questions are:
1) How deep are the tapped holes? Would I able to just get a long stud and send it way in, or am I stuck re-tapping the hole because too much thread is gone?
2) What thread are the factory bolts?
3) What thread is recommended on a re-tap?
Thanks guys.
I haven't dealt enough with stripped stuff to recommend anything with certainty... However, I'll just point to what is 'supposed' to be there, so you can determine the best way to fix it back to stock or similar. The oil filter cover is supposed to have three studs and cap nuts. A few reasons for this, but the convenient one that comes to mind for this case is so that you can simple replace the stud if you were to overtighten and strip it- Replacing a stud is much less of a headache than dealing with tapping or helicoiling into the block. So, the PO actually messed up two of the studs and replaced them with bolts - :whisper: Whoops! lol
Also, when you do go to fix this - know that the oil filter housing only holds maybe 300ml max of oil, and you won't loose all of your oil opening that housing to work on it between changes - small silver lining?...
:cheers:
- Bboy
Hmm, thanks for the info.
Good that I can change the filter without all the oil dumping, unfortunate that it took all 3 quarts to read full on the dipstick. I thought 2600ml was 2-3/4 quarts, but mine wanted the full 3 so I let it have it.
Still, one quart of oil is still cheaper than 3...
Quote from: Watcher on July 31, 2014, 09:49:00 AM
Still, one quart of oil is still cheaper than 3...
Yeah, I realize you watch your pennies so I had to get that out there for ya :thumb:
- Bboy
Quote from: Watcher on July 31, 2014, 09:49:00 AM
Hmm, thanks for the info.
Good that I can change the filter without all the oil dumping, unfortunate that it took all 3 quarts to read full on the dipstick. I thought 2600ml was 2-3/4 quarts, but mine wanted the full 3 so I let it have it.
Still, one quart of oil is still cheaper than 3...
According to my (haynes) manual 3 quarts is what is expected if you change the filter...
Capacity according to 97 Owners Manual:
With filter change.........3.1 qt US
Without filter change.....2.7 qt
Overhaul......................3.4 qt
I have for many tens of thousands of miles changing every 2-3k miles added 3 qts whether changing filter or not. It's never been a problem, a bit under or a bit over.
Was curious if it was any different for F models with oil cooler, appearantly it's not. Copied from GS500/F Owners Manual posted by AU member:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/FromAUGS500FOM_zps16fde134.jpg)
Quote from: Watcher on July 30, 2014, 03:33:41 PM
But I don't trust it to hold up forever, so I want to change the oil again ASAP and fix this issue. I'm leaning towards loctiting studs into the block like the one already is, but my questions are:
1) How deep are the tapped holes? Would I able to just get a long stud and send it way in, or am I stuck re-tapping the hole because too much thread is gone?
2) What thread are the factory bolts?
3) What thread is recommended on a re-tap?
Thanks guys.
1) I have no idea how deep the holes are, assume they are no deeper than the longest stud. You are best off drilling, tapping, and helicoiling the hole, makes it much stronger and prevents this bs from happened, had to do it on my suz dirt bike.
2) m6x1.0
3) helicoil kit with m7x1.0 tap, that way you can reuse the factory stud and dont have mix matched bolts, again, previous experience says this works great!
This is probably one of the more expensive ways of doing this, but IMO it is the best, the helicoil inserts are steel, so that prevents this from happening again.
Thanks for the replies everyone.
I'll likely go the helicoil route, and I'll probably make studs from bolts or something. Better too long than not long enough, it's easier to remove length than add it...
Quote from: gsJack on August 01, 2014, 08:49:37 AM
Was curious if it was any different for F models with oil cooler, appearantly it's not. Copied from GS500/F Owners Manual posted by AU member:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/FromAUGS500FOM_zps16fde134.jpg)
I was just rounding, the haynes I have also indicates 3.1 quarts, but 3 was perfectly fine when I did my oil.