Hey guys. I DID use the search function because my original topic was about synthetic- I've already made my decision about that.
I have a 97 GS500E with 20K on it, so I'm sticking to conventional oil with regular oil changes for the time being. I don't know what is considered riding it "hard" but I do a lot of highway riding so I'm running 5-7k RPM for 40 minutes straight twice a day, 4 days a week. And of course when I'm getting on I run it up to 9k depending on what kind of acceleration I need.
I'm looking for oil other than the $6/quart that the stealership offers, but with the ever changing field of lubricants I've run into this:
Recently oil manufacturers have been adding friction modifiers that wet clutches don't like- examples are "energy conserving" and Rotella-T "energized protection" that are on the shelf. I'm trying to steer clear of these, so on to my question.
Is there an API standard or other standard, identifying marker to look for other than "Do not use with wet clutches" in the fine print? (Recommendations that are known to work with a clutch that has 20k on it?)
Lastly, what about Lucas oil stabilizer? I use it in my truck and it silenced my lifters on cold start, but I don't know how the wet clutch feels about it.
Edit: I run conventional Castrol GTX 10W-30/40 in my truck which would be awesome if I could use it in both, anyone have personal success with it?
Yeah, there is an API marking that is very useful:
(http://i.imgur.com/4vtZbkc.gif)
See where it says "energy conserving"? Don't buy oil with that on there.
As for what oil to use, everyone is going to chime in with their opinions. I'd say someone like gsJack, who's been running his bikes for 100k+ miles, will be the best to see if the differences actually matter in the long term.
I have 20.5k miles on my 90 GS, 13k of which are mine, and for the most part, I've always used Castrol GTX 10W-40. I've had problems with it burning off at high, sustained RPMs, but other than that, nothing. I actually used Castrol's 4T motorcycle oil for one or two changes and couldn't notice a difference, in either running or it burning off or not.
The term Energized Protection doesn't mean Energy Conserving, it's more of a sales pitch on the quality of their oil. Rotella T 15W-40 carries the JASO-MA approval for motorcycles like ours. JASO is the Japanese equivelant of our SAE and provides specifications and approvals for motorcycle oils.
http://www.whitedogbikes.com/whitedogblog/choosing-the-right-motorbike-oil-what-does-jaso-and-jaso-ma2-mean/
Look at any Rotella-T container or this Shell spec sheet for the JASO-MA approval:
http://s08.static-shell.com/content/dam/shell-new/local/business/rotella/downloads/pdf/rotella-triple-brochure.pdf
I used Mobil 1 15W-50 synthetic in my 97 GS bought new for about 50-60k miles and then switched to Rotella-T 15W-40 or equivelant and used it until the bike was totalled at about 80k miles. My current 02 GS has gone 100k miles on Rotell-T. A recent compression test showed 140 psi for both cylinders @ 100k miles.
Look at the Addendum at bottom of this oil article written by an oil man for a VFR forum:
http://www.vfrworld.com/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm
I switched to heavier grade Castrol GTX 20W-50 recently to quiet the rattling pistons on the well worn but still good running engine in my current 02 engine.
You can get Valvoline 10-40 conventional MOTORCYCLE 4 stroke oil at Wal Mart for $4 a quart.
So it's formulated for wet clutch, motorcycle specs etc.
you can get cheaper oil which will work in GS500....but $4 is a good deal for MC oil if you ask me.
I Usually buy Valvoline motorcycle oil at Advance Auto because it is right in my neighborhood, and I can get 20% commercial discount...but it's $5.14 a quart with discount...so Wal Mart is still best deal around!
Cookie
Thanks for the help guys.
On an unrelated matter, I was traveling an indicated 95mph at 8k RPM on the way home today. Does this sound about right or is my speedo unusually off? I remember reading something about it being off from the factory on here.
The speedo is "off" by about 8% or 9% or so...I use 10% for easy "calculation in your head"..
So figure your actual speed was like 85~86 or thereabouts...
You can buy a cheap GPS which will give you actual speed fairly accurately..within 1% I'd say...
Maybe save your money for paying speeding tickets? or hospital bills? Just sayin'
Cookie
Quote from: enrgizerbunny on September 15, 2014, 05:17:22 PM
Thanks for the help guys.
On an unrelated matter, I was traveling an indicated 95mph at 8k RPM on the way home today. Does this sound about right or is my speedo unusually off? I remember reading something about it being off from the factory on here.
Just another way to look at it: If your asking if the relationship of 8000 rpm vs indicated speed of 95 is correct? Yes.....that represents 84 RPM for each 1 MPH in 6 gear......same as my bike...
Just remember the speedo is 9% conservative...
But your speedo is working correctly....
You might get very slight variations as your tires wear smaller, or if you installed non standard size tires.......
But remember this saying: "We're not making a Swiss watch here!"
Cookie
Quote from: enrgizerbunny on September 15, 2014, 05:17:22 PM
Thanks for the help guys.
On an unrelated matter, I was traveling an indicated 95mph at 8k RPM on the way home today. Does this sound about right or is my speedo unusually off? I remember reading something about it being off from the factory on here.
95 mph @8000 rpm indicated with 9% speedo error would be 87 actual mph @8000 rpm. So 87 mph x 8500/8000 = 92 mph actual speed at peak HP ??
If that were 5th gear then 92x961/851= 104 mph actual speed in 6th gear at peak HP, about right for GS500 tested top speed.
Could OP's bike have been in 5th gear?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/GS500gearing-rpms_zps86c965d4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/GS500tests_zpsd738ea8a.jpg
I'm confident I was in 6th because I'm at 85ish(indicated) mph at 7k RPM in 6th gear, and 500-700? RPM over that if I'm in 5th.
My rear tire is 130/80R17 instead of the 130/70.
My 97 showed 4800 rpm at 60 mph indicated in 6th when new and stock so:
4800x95/60= 7840 rpm @ 95 mph indicated so that's not far off your 8k but a 130/80 tire would reduce it further to 7840x24.2/25.2= 7529 rpm approx in 6th.
Could be different speedo and tach errors between the bikes to account for the differences.
Jack,
Me thinks you are trying to be too precise.....
We have a lot of "about" 8000 rpm and "close to" 95 MPH etc.....
I don't think you'd find variation form one bike to another when they were new...worn tires, different tires etc. would account for some small differences..
But what is the point of the exercise?
You go as fast as you go...
Cookie
Quote from: gsJack on September 16, 2014, 12:51:29 PM
My 97 showed 4800 rpm at 60 mph indicated in 6th when new and stock so:
4800x95/60= 7840 rpm @ 95 mph indicated so that's not far off your 8k but a 130/80 tire would reduce it further to 7840x24.2/25.2= 7529 rpm approx in 6th.
Could be different speedo and tach errors between the bikes to account for the differences.