So lately I have been trying to rejet my bike since I got a new exhaust and intake. But lets start from the beginning when I first bought it, it ran perfect with stock exhaust and intake. Then I got the mod bug to rejet with intake and exhaust and ever since the bike has never been able to ride perfectly. Either with high idle, limited RPM or bogging. So I decided once I receive my exhaust I will have shop professional tune the carb since I have tried several times. After a week of being at the shop, they called and said that they had to do a diagnose. They said what they found is the right cylinder is dead, with the exhaust valve being burnt and tight. They said that the valve will need to be replaced. I trust them that this is whats up, but could bad jetting cause this?
Thanks,
Zach
You had problem, (you created problem), shop found problem.....I would trust that shop!
Burnt valve.....
Many possible causes...all due to excessive heat build up on valve and no way to dissipate the heat.
Running lean will cause valve burn...(like wrong jet)
Bad valve adjustment will cause valve burn ...(like not enough clearance, so valve stays open too long, or stays open all the time, so exhaust gas burns valve at edge)
Too open of exhaust, can give lean condition....
Rant begins now:
Why does everybody want to F*** with a perfectly good bike? This is one reason I would be extremely cautious about ever buying a used motorcycle...guys just can't keep their stinkin hands off of stuff and f*** up everything!
Rant over..
Cookie
Cookie
Quote from: MNgs500 on September 24, 2014, 12:35:19 AM
So lately I have been trying to rejet my bike since I got a new exhaust and intake. But lets start from the beginning when I first bought it, it ran perfect with stock exhaust and intake. Then I got the mod bug to rejet with intake and exhaust and ever since the bike has never been able to ride perfectly. Either with high idle, limited RPM or bogging. So I decided once I receive my exhaust I will have shop professional tune the carb since I have tried several times. After a week of being at the shop, they called and said that they had to do a diagnose. They said what they found is the right cylinder is dead, with the exhaust valve being burnt and tight. They said that the valve will need to be replaced. I trust them that this is whats up, but could bad jetting cause this?
Thanks,
Zach
Being me - I call BS.
Burnt valve ... OK I call double BS.
Never seen it happen. I've seen em bent, one of my local friends managed to bend it while adjusting valves ...
OK so you get the thing back from them and do as we say. I'll bet you save a few grand.
Take off the exhaust, take off the spark plug, and turn the motor to TDC and make sure your vlave clearances are good (easy to do - they dont have to be even right for this experiment, the yjust have to be positive) and shine a bright flashlight in the exhaust port.
If you see light in the chamber via the sparkplug hole - you have a bad valve. If you dont - you're valves are good.
Do that and we'll get the next step.
I'll bet its your carb - but I'd have to diagnose your way out of it.
Cool.
Buddha.
Check condition of valves with compression tests, easier than pulling exhaust. Verify tappets have some clearance cold. If you have good compression cold valves are not your problem, if you have good compression hot and very low compression cold then valves are too tight.
They claimed they did do a compression test. But I will do one myself, as well as the light check. I just have limited time and money now college started. I will admit it I probably screwed the bike up big time, possibly running lean and rich. I tried to follow the jetting by the book but never got it right. I will rent a compression checker after school and see. What psi would I be looking for when testing?
Agreed, doing a compression test is cheap and easy. Normal is anything from 142-199psi but less than a 28psi difference between the two cylinders. Lower than that is alright, you can have a minimum of 114psi on one cylinder but still no more than 28psi difference between the two.
Well, maybe we don't trust that shop? Either way, I'm with everybody else...do your own compression test...the only way to know for sure if it is valve or carbs!
Cookie
Quote from: MNgs500 on September 24, 2014, 08:19:41 AM
They claimed they did do a compression test. But I will do one myself, as well as the light check. I just have limited time and money now college started. I will admit it I probably screwed the bike up big time, possibly running lean and rich. I tried to follow the jetting by the book but never got it right. I will rent a compression checker after school and see. What psi would I be looking for when testing?
Compression test needs well a compression tester with the bike adapter.
You could borrow one form someone on here - I have 1 but I have to find it - and that's always hit or miss.
The light in the exhaust is more rough but it needs no equipment.
BTW you know how lean you have to run it to burn a valve ??? Yea - not likely. It wil lrun so badly you wont want to ride it. Rich - doesn't even matter. Cant hurt it that way.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: twocool on September 24, 2014, 03:44:48 AM
Rant begins now:
Why does everybody want to F*** with a perfectly good bike? This is one reason I would be extremely cautious about ever buying a used motorcycle...guys just can't keep their stinkin hands off of stuff and f*** up everything!
Rant over..
Cookie
What fun would that be???
You'd never learn anything either.
I've never left a bike alone and they all run better after I'm done with them!
Sure, you make some good points...but then again, there are some who "should" and some who "should not"!
A heck of a lot of the things I have learned over the years, I have learned "the hard way" by doing wrong the first time (sometimes second time, third time, etc).
But with age and wisdom, I have also "learned" to learn from the mistakes of others!
Cookie
Quote from: ace50 on September 24, 2014, 01:06:25 PM
Quote from: twocool on September 24, 2014, 03:44:48 AM
Rant begins now:
Why does everybody want to F*** with a perfectly good bike? This is one reason I would be extremely cautious about ever buying a used motorcycle...guys just can't keep their stinkin hands off of stuff and f*** up everything!
Rant over..
Cookie
What fun would that be???
You'd never learn anything either.
I've never left a bike alone and they all run better after I'm done with them!
For a compression tester isnt it just a fitting that goes into the spark plug hole and you crank the engine to watch the highest pressure in the interval. I will have some time tomorrow after night class to try these out. Will let you know. Otherwise i called a guy of craigslist that works out of his garage charges $25/hr and talked to him and doesnt think its valves either but wants to look at it
I agree with you Cookie. I have been quietly mumbling to myself for a long time "why do people who do not know what they are doing do things that they should not do? If it aint broke, don't fix it!" We all bought a GS because it was simple and reliable. Many then do their best to throw that out the window and then grumble because they stuffed it up. :cookoo: "LEAVE IT ALONE". If you want more power, buy a more powerful bike!!!
I have been a qualified motor mechanic for 43 years and one of the biggest things that I have learnt in nearly half a century is that if it is running well, "LEAVE IT ALONE!!!!!".
My K9 is standard except for gearing and a couple of electrical accessories. I have NEVER touched the carbies, not even to adjust the idle jets, they are still sealed, or modified the intake or exhaust. It starts instantly, runs perfectly and gives great economy. What more do you want? :dunno_black:
Macka
Quote from: MNgs500 on September 25, 2014, 12:45:15 AM
For a compression tester isnt it just a fitting that goes into the spark plug hole and you crank the engine to watch the highest pressure in the interval. I will have some time tomorrow after night class to try these out. Will let you know. Otherwise i called a guy of craigslist that works out of his garage charges $25/hr and talked to him and doesnt think its valves either but wants to look at it
True - but that spark plug threads are different for a car vs a bike. The regular cheapo auto parts store issue testers are meant for cars, hence have different threads. You can take that tester and tap the fitting for the bike - which I have done on several ocassions, but right now it is awol.
Anyway go on and test it, I'll get your carbs right if you need it. I've noticed most bike mechanics of today aren't too good at carbs. You rememebr in those old old old days the car mechanics used to remobe carbs and send em off to the "carb guy" ... yea OK that will be me.
Prmas:- lots of bikes work fine while being a hair lean. If its not lean down @ that idle-2000 range you wont notice an issue in a lot of cases. You will run hotter - the chamber and exhaust will be hotter, but you wont notice it while running. The basic idea is - you jet it to run cooler. If itmakes it run better - you have a double whammy (that you have avoided LOL).
I dont think any GS is not lean as it leaves the factory. Why do I think so - because the factory manual says so. US bike = 37.5/122.5/2.5 turns/unadjustable needle. European GS = 40/125/2.5 turns/needle on clip 2 (1/2 mm higher). They pretty well know we're getting it lean. BTW yes you could have gas that would cover the difference - and US has that MTBE+achohol in the gas, while europe has less of it. That prevents the engine from knocking being that lean. However it does not help with running hotter.
If it runs great - do a plug pull @ 1/4 throttle, 1/2 throttle and 3/4 throttle. If they all turn up looking chocolatey color then you may have caught "lightining in a bottle" if not - you could probably adjust something and get away with it. Or just swap 1 jet or a washer under the needle ... either way
Oh, your bike is what year ? on the 89-00 the floats drift high, You should set it to correct level and try it. On a 01+ I notice they are a lot harder to move, however I recently pulled a set apart that had em high and looked like the bowls were never taken off. No idea, maybe it drifts higher but slower than the 89-00's.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: prmas on September 25, 2014, 02:44:09 AM
I agree with you Cookie. I have been quietly mumbling to myself for a long time "why do people who do not know what they are doing do things that they should not do? If it aint broke, don't fix it!" We all bought a GS because it was simple and reliable. Many then do their best to throw that out the window and then grumble because they stuffed it up. :cookoo: "LEAVE IT ALONE". If you want more power, buy a more powerful bike!!!
I have been a qualified motor mechanic for 43 years and one of the biggest things that I have learnt in nearly half a century is that if it is running well, "LEAVE IT ALONE!!!!!".
Macka
Well, I'll just completely disagree.
You never learn anything leaving something alone. I was pulling things apart and putting them back together since I was a kid. Never been to any 'school' but consider myself a pretty good mechanic, and still learning. (on my 6th bike)
This site has more newbies asking questions than any other I'm on, cause the GS is a newbie bike. Nothing wrong with that. Hopefully they're learning something they can take away with them to their next bike.
Some are better at it than others but who are you to judge.
signed,
Cranky Old Man :mad:
It depends on your objective. If you want to learn, by all means, tear into those carbs. If you really just want to ride, it's not worth it to mess with things just because you think it can be a little better. Just don't tear into the carbs with a perfectly running bike and then complain because you screwed it up. Post your questions and learn from others' experiences. I'm not putting down the OP at all for messing with his bike. It's certainly his own choice!
Quote from: bombsquad83 on September 25, 2014, 06:41:59 AM
It depends in your objective. If you want to learn, by all means, tear into those carbs. If you really just want to ride, it's not worth it to mess with things just because you think it can be a little better. Just don't tear into the carbs with a perfectly running bike and then complain because you screwed it up. Post your questions and learn from others' experiences. I'm not putting down the OP at all for messing with his bike. It's certainly his own choice!
That's the heart of the matter. How many of you think you have a 'perfectly running bike'? It starts and goes down the road? I've been on numerous bikes where the owner though it was OK, and I thought.....DAMN, how do you put up with this!? You learn by doing. You mess it up, you can put it back, and in the process (unless you're a dumb-ass) you learn a ton about your bike.
Quote from: ace50 on September 25, 2014, 06:57:34 AM
Quote from: bombsquad83 on September 25, 2014, 06:41:59 AM
It depends in your objective. If you want to learn, by all means, tear into those carbs. If you really just want to ride, it's not worth it to mess with things just because you think it can be a little better. Just don't tear into the carbs with a perfectly running bike and then complain because you screwed it up. Post your questions and learn from others' experiences. I'm not putting down the OP at all for messing with his bike. It's certainly his own choice!
That's the heart of the matter. How many of you think you have a 'perfectly running bike'? It starts and goes down the road? I've been on numerous bikes where the owner though it was OK, and I thought.....DAMN, how do you put up with this!? You learn by doing. You mess it up, you can put it back, and in the process (unless you're a dumb-ass) you learn a ton about your bike.
Quote from: MNgs500 on September 24, 2014, 12:35:19 AM
But lets start from the beginning when I first bought it, it ran perfect with stock exhaust and intake. Then I got the mod bug to rejet with intake and exhaust and ever since the bike has never been able to ride perfectly.
Apparently the OP thought it was running perfect. That's the reason I said it the way I did.
Gotta agree with Macka on these, "If it ain't broke don't fix it." and "I have NEVER touched the carbies, not even to adjust the idle jets, they are still sealed"
And pertaining to carbs in particular my favorite "Don't mess with your carbs and they won't mess with you." I've managed to go 180,000 GS500 miles and counting without uncovering the idle mix screws.
It's good we have a Buddha here along with several young carb experienced guys to help members with carb problems because bikers are gonna mess with their carbs for sure. Known a lot of them, used to hang around uptown with a bunch of Hog riders, many spent $15-40k on their bikes and then spent more time talking about working on them than riding them. Any one else here ever lead a Hog ride on a GS500?
Even though this shot out of topic, i agree and disagree.
1) Messing with the carbs: To many who do this which include me are mechanical skilled and like to see how the bike works. I wanted to be a mechanic for years before deciding to get into engineering. I have owned 3 cars and do all the repairs myself. I can call myself a car/bike enthusiasts because its only what i care about. I like giving it a personal touch so the exhaust was one which required rejet. This is my first bike and first carburetor I have owned so like most said its a learning piece.
2) Don't touch the carbs: This is key to someone who likes to ride. Carburetors as i learned are very touchy and require knowledge and skill to work on them. In my example doing this procedure wrong can effect other parts like burnt valves or leaned pistons. If I could start again I would have had a mechanic rejet for me.
But since I'm a person that refuses to bring bikes/cars into shops unless last resort to save money.
http://www.harborfreight.com/quick-connect-compression-tester-95187.html
will this compression tester work??
I agree with your "two sides to the story"...I am a do-it-your-selfer" from the get go...
I was just commenting on the recurring, nightmare, ground hog day, post:
"I just switched air cleaner, and exhaust and re-jetted the carbs, and now the bike runs like crap"
I bet not only the GS twin chat group, but every motorcycle group has this recurring post! And then plenty of car chat groups too! Then there are all they guys who F*** up and don't belong to any chat or who don't bother to post.
But hey, I just recently got into an automotive business...so the more guys F up, the more stuff I sell!
Seriously though, carburetors are sometimes almost a black art.....some guys can figure them out, and others should stay far away.
I remember messing with the SU carbs on my old '68 Triumph Spitfire...those f****ing needles!
Cookie
Quote from: MNgs500 on September 25, 2014, 02:24:54 PM
Even though this shot out of topic, i agree and disagree.
1) Messing with the carbs: To many who do this which include me are mechanical skilled and like to see how the bike works. I wanted to be a mechanic for years before deciding to get into engineering. I have owned 3 cars and do all the repairs myself. I can call myself a car/bike enthusiasts because its only what i care about. I like giving it a personal touch so the exhaust was one which required rejet. This is my first bike and first carburetor I have owned so like most said its a learning piece.
2) Don't touch the carbs: This is key to someone who likes to ride. Carburetors as i learned are very touchy and require knowledge and skill to work on them. In my example doing this procedure wrong can effect other parts like burnt valves or leaned pistons. If I could start again I would have had a mechanic rejet for me.
But since I'm a person that refuses to bring bikes/cars into shops unless last resort to save money.
That one has a M10 fitting for our size spark plug holes so it will work OK. I bought this one earlier this year and liked it:
http://www.harborfreight.com/Compression-Test-Kit-8-Pc-69885.html
Had one for decades that got lost or loaned or something so I needed a new one.
Just go down to Advance Auto or similar...they will "loan" you a compression tester for free....
Well, you have to pay for it up front, but you get all the money back when you return it...
should have adapters in the kit...
Cookie
Quote from: MNgs500 on September 25, 2014, 02:24:54 PM
Even though this shot out of topic, i agree and disagree.
1) Messing with the carbs: To many who do this which include me are mechanical skilled and like to see how the bike works. I wanted to be a mechanic for years before deciding to get into engineering. I have owned 3 cars and do all the repairs myself. I can call myself a car/bike enthusiasts because its only what i care about. I like giving it a personal touch so the exhaust was one which required rejet. This is my first bike and first carburetor I have owned so like most said its a learning piece.
2) Don't touch the carbs: This is key to someone who likes to ride. Carburetors as i learned are very touchy and require knowledge and skill to work on them. In my example doing this procedure wrong can effect other parts like burnt valves or leaned pistons. If I could start again I would have had a mechanic rejet for me.
But since I'm a person that refuses to bring bikes/cars into shops unless last resort to save money.
The carbs are not touchy at all ... In fact almost the opposite ... you can be off by a good bit and still ride without any apparent problems. That's why they put 122.5/37.5 in US bikes.
In a lot of cases people dont know what the fuel mix is past that start up and idle bit.
If they put different jets - in Canadia which has the same gas as we do, they put euro jets in.
Hey if it will make you feel better, ride into canadia and tell them to set your carbs to "stock".
That way you can own the only stock GS LOL. If its stock in all other aspects.
Of course I never bought a new GS so no clue, all of mine had been through hell and survived, long before I dragged it out of the ditch and got it home ...
Cool.
Buddha.
Buddha,
Easy for you.....not easy for everybody.
If it was easy, there would not be so many posts about AFU jetting...
You pointed out that the jetting ( mixture) has quite a range which still works fairly well...so why so many guys really F up?
Cookie
Left intake
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/25/3acaa3e946f0c5d60ad341cb960a4ec7.jpg)
Right intake(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/25/476efdeb248e69715e938bd7c81610f2.jpg)
Right exhaust(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/25/afd0ce74ac1a902daded270a5b6a02d4.jpg)
Left exhaust(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/25/6cf0fa361b098a8ff616e5cf20ecbcf0.jpg)
By the looks it seems the left exhaust isnt pooking good. I did the flashlight test in the dark no light.
OK That white valve = lean.
Nothing is burnt - you will easily see burnt ..
OK that white one chamber needs jetting corrected - see that choclate color on the other one ... nice - valves hold color a lot longer than a spark plug. So you cant say its lean @ idle or in the mid or up high ... its lean somewhere where you spent a good bit of revs, and you have not run it in the rich range (if it even is rich anywhere) OK ... so jet it right and you should be fine.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: twocool on September 25, 2014, 07:58:04 PM
Buddha,
Easy for you.....not easy for everybody.
If it was easy, there would not be so many posts about AFU jetting...
You pointed out that the jetting ( mixture) has quite a range which still works fairly well...so why so many guys really F up?
Cookie
OK fine - since you're calling me a Genius here ...
Cool.
Buddha.
LOL! :D
"Genius"? Stronger word than what I was thinking, but...
Ok...if my post implies "genius" I'll go with that!
So then what do we call all the guys who F up their carbs? :dunno_black:
Cookie
Quote from: The Buddha on September 26, 2014, 06:01:08 AM
Quote from: twocool on September 25, 2014, 07:58:04 PM
Buddha,
Easy for you.....not easy for everybody.
If it was easy, there would not be so many posts about AFU jetting...
You pointed out that the jetting ( mixture) has quite a range which still works fairly well...so why so many guys really F up?
Cookie
OK fine - since you're calling me a Genius here ...
Cool.
Buddha.
So next step is it to compression test now if ot fails on the left like the shop said what to do next?
Here it is finally got the head off. Cpearly the left exhaust valve is burnt. Now based on this what will i want to do? The shop said if i bring the head in alone as is they can replace it for $100+ parts.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/22/d571fe4c6b70e9032191779a83cb1af3.jpg)
Dude that's not burnt
You're lean, but jet it and it will simply forget it was run lean.
Burnt = edges will be looking chewed ...
Even more burnt = the face wil lbe chewed.
That is a mighty fine valve.
Anyway now that you have it apart, get a 3 angle cut and put it back on.
Oh, yea, a burnt valve cant be cut either ... anyone who says your vale is burnt, and here give it to me and some $$$ and I'll cut it for you is stealing your $$$.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: MNgs500 on October 22, 2014, 03:42:59 PM
Here it is finally got the head off. Cpearly the left exhaust valve is burnt. Now based on this what will i want to do? The shop said if i bring the head in alone as is they can replace it for $100+ parts.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/10/22/d571fe4c6b70e9032191779a83cb1af3.jpg)
you're gonna need a valve compression tool. and a torque wrench. and a new valve. if you're hellbent on replacing it*
also, whats + parts? are they replacing all the gaskets/crush washers? honestly if they aren't and can get away with just replacing the valve, i'd just bite the buck and take their offer. just to get the valve compression tool alone is gonna get you close to 50 bucks.
what ever you do, DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE CAMSHAFT BOOTS. :technical: :technical: :technical: >:( they break.... easily.... :icon_rolleyes:
also if you replace it, you're gonna need new valve shims...
200$ bucks for a kit...
or if you're lucky and a member on here has extra that they could send to you.
but seriously. its not burnt. think of the white stuff as "ash" from a fire. you have charcoal, and then you have ash. you getting where im going with that?
I agree. That valve looks a good colour to me. I am more concerned with the other exhaust valve. It, and the whole chamber, look too dark and "wet" to me. As the head is off, it would be silly not to clean up the valves anyway but you need to find out why the other cylinder is so dark and sooty looking. It may be running far too rich on that cylinder but it appears to look more like oil than fuel deposits to me. Has it been using oil? I don't remember if you mentioned that in earlier posts.
Macka
Prior to removal I measured the shim spacing. The intakes are at .04mm and the exhaust are less then .04 so it will need a valve adjustment. Ever since i touched the carbs this bike ran like crap. Now that it is lean and not burnt even though that what i was told... I will bring my head to a motorcycle shop and have them to the 3 angle valve job and resurface the head. Also once i install the head I will have them also rejet and do a valve adjustment. The shop I'm using is http://www.billbune.com/services.html. What service would the 3 angle be?
Thanks for the help
http://www.billbune.com/services.html#FourCycleHeadWork
The 4 valve standard, and you add the 3 angle below it in the next block. I think.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: MNgs500 on October 22, 2014, 07:37:03 PM
Prior to removal I measured the shim spacing. The intakes are at .04mm and the exhaust are less then .04 so it will need a valve adjustment. Ever since i touched the carbs this bike ran like crap. Now that it is lean and not burnt even though that what i was told... I will bring my head to a motorcycle shop and have them to the 3 angle valve job and resurface the head. Also once i install the head I will have them also rejet and do a valve adjustment. The shop I'm using is http://www.billbune.com/services.html. What service would the 3 angle be?
Thanks for the help
Your valve clearance being under .04 isn't a problem, you have to be closer to .01 or so before you'd have to worry. Valve adjustments are related more to miles run since last check, oil grade and how much rpm you had (Too much idling is bad, steady mid rpm runs in the correct gear are better) etc etc.
Your carbs may not have even been that far off. Your white and ashy valve probably looks like 90% of stock bikes. How did the plugs look ?
I said right when you put the pic of the thing form the back side, tha tvalve is fine, just a hair lean. You didn't have to pull it apart.
Cool.
Buddha.
A 3 angle valve grind? A GS500 is not rocket science, it's more like tractor science! Valves look OK to me, I'd pull it apart, clean carbon, and lap valves. If a quick lap shows good seal on all valves put it back together and enjoy it some more. If you grind valves and seats you'll be limiting future valve adjustment range.
That's what I did on my 02 GS when a sticking bucket caused a broken exhaust valve. I replaced the broken one, lapped them all to check seal, cleaned carbon, and put it back together. Now years later no further engine work it still runs like new and a comprssion check this spring at 100k miles showed 140 psi on both cylinders.
Did you check compression before you pulled the head?
Quote from: gsJack on October 23, 2014, 06:06:28 AM
A 3 angle valve grind? A GS500 is not rocket science, it's more like tractor science! Valves look OK to me, I'd pull it apart, clean carbon, and lap valves. If a quick lap shows good seal on all valves put it back together and enjoy it some more. If you grind valves and seats you'll be limiting future valve adjustment range.
Not really. If you lap it - you could lose adjustment range. But a skilled motorcycle machine shop - or even a car shop, will be easily able to surface the top of the valve stem and get you back right into the middle of the adjustment range.
Cool.
Buddha.
A quick lap to check seal won't take enough off to measure, just changes color so you can see if seal is good. Not talking about grinding valves with lapping compound. :icon_lol:
Works for me and price is right.
LOL, yes.
In this pic, the 2 exhaust valves are pretty nice - they're sitting well up off the seat. These valves are better off just left alone - or yea you can lightly lap em since you got this far. The intakes look a bit worse than the exhaust. See how they are sunken in the head. OK they are designed that way, the ysit lower in the head, but in any case, I'd not put any real machine work in that head, its useable as is. Pooking around in it could well leave yo ua head that ... well isn't.
Cool.
Buddha.
Alright so really i dont need to bring it to the shop? I just dont understand why that other shop told me that the valve needs to be replaced and the cylinder is dead. I know that the carb probably is really screwed up. Before it only ran up to 5k rpm and when the clutch engaged the bike would die. I'm sure i was being used of lack of knowledge. So as off now that the head is off. I wont need to resurface or any work?
Quote from: gsJack on October 23, 2014, 06:06:28 AM
A 3 angle valve grind? A GS500 is not rocket science, it's more like tractor science! Valves look OK to me, I'd pull it apart, clean carbon, and lap valves. If a quick lap shows good seal on all valves put it back together and enjoy it some more. If you grind valves and seats you'll be limiting future valve adjustment range.
That's what I did on my 02 GS when a sticking bucket caused a broken exhaust valve. I replaced the broken one, lapped them all to check seal, cleaned carbon, and put it back together. Now years later no further engine work it still runs like new and a comprssion check this spring at 100k miles showed 140 psi on both cylinders.
Did you check compression before you pulled the head?
I brought the head and cylinder to the shop they said they will look at them for free. Then a mechanic off craigslist that charges $25/hr that was recommonded said he will assemble and tune the bike on the 11th. The guy at the shop, didn't say anything specific, but will call before any work is started. It's to late in the season to try and fix the bike quickly. I also brought the pistons in with the cylinder wall. Thanks for all the help everyone, I would should have never touched the carb in the first place... :cookoo:
Its likely that both valves were tha tway before you touched them ...
Anyway send me your carbs, I barely make $25/hr messing with GS carbs ...
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: MNgs500 on October 23, 2014, 04:52:39 PM
I brought the head and cylinder to the shop they said they will look at them for free. Then a mechanic off craigslist that charges $25/hr that was recommonded said he will assemble and tune the bike on the 11th. The guy at the shop, didn't say anything specific, but will call before any work is started. It's to late in the season to try and fix the bike quickly. I also brought the pistons in with the cylinder wall. Thanks for all the help everyone, I would should have never touched the carb in the first place... :cookoo:
That cylinder needs a wash, and maybe you can surface the head and you fit all new gaskets and reassemble it.
urfacing the head is a 5 minute job, they really should do it free for giving you crappy advice - BTW you showed them the pics of it assembled ? Or did you just describe the problem.
For good measure wash everything you ahve sitting outside in the engine shop "hotsy"
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: The Buddha on October 23, 2014, 06:17:29 PM
Quote from: MNgs500 on October 23, 2014, 04:52:39 PM
I brought the head and cylinder to the shop they said they will look at them for free. Then a mechanic off craigslist that charges $25/hr that was recommonded said he will assemble and tune the bike on the 11th. The guy at the shop, didn't say anything specific, but will call before any work is started. It's to late in the season to try and fix the bike quickly. I also brought the pistons in with the cylinder wall. Thanks for all the help everyone, I would should have never touched the carb in the first place... :cookoo:
That cylinder needs a wash, and maybe you can surface the head and you fit all new gaskets and reassemble it.
urfacing the head is a 5 minute job, they really should do it free for giving you crappy advice - BTW you showed them the pics of it assembled ? Or did you just describe the problem.
For good measure wash everything you ahve sitting outside in the engine shop "hotsy"
Cool.
Buddha.
I brought the head and cylinder block to the shop showed him my original receipt from the other repair shop. We discussed doing the valve job with 3 angle if needed. As well as deglaze/hone the cylinder to the pistons which they also have. Since everything is off we will also probably resurface the head and cylinder. I will send my carbs to buddha and reassemble I'm sure I can do with the help of baltimoregs youtube video. If not the guy in anoka can on nov 11th. Then I will never make this mistake again!