I'd like to rekindle the thread about running the low and high beam together (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=54189.msg610875#msg610875). The road is much better illuminated at night with both filaments on. Three things to note:
i) The effect can be achieved by toggling the dimmer switch between low and high -- to no ill effect.
ii) Non-US models have a passing switch that energized both filaments, routing the power right through the dimmer switch. Refer to the wiring diagram to see how an extra hot wire (orange) is routed to the toggle switch on such models.
iii) People in this forum have run 100-watt bulbs using the standard wiring -- again to no ill effect (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=13706.0).
I think I will change the wiring so the high beam position of the switch turns on both filaments. I cannot just bridge the two hot wires, as that will make both filaments turn on in either dimmer switch position. Instead, it looks like I'll have to introduce a relay into the circuit, so when the high beam is powered, it energizes the relay to supply power to the low beam as well.
Previous writers have said the generator puts out 200 watts max. I cannot find this figure in the service manual. Can anyone substantiate the 200-watt figure?
Regarding the output of the generator, I note that when both high and low beams are run together (in-between toggle position), and when I apply the brakes at lowish RPM, the headlights hardly dim at all, so the it seems that the charging system is up to the task.
People keep saying the headlight will get fried. From my experience as a car mechanic, I can say that dual-filament bulbs are routinely used in applications that run both filaments simultaneously.
Any thoughts?
I never played much on my first Gs500, so I don't know. but my SV650, if you took the switch, and put it in the middle, both would stay on... no dimmer switch/extra needed..? can someone confirm if this works with the GS500? I have a feeling it would, because I just took a look at both housings, and funny, they look the same.
edit; just confirmed. both the stock GS500f headlight, and the GS450 headlight both do the same as the SV. using the standard H4 bulb.
Sure, that works. But diddling with the switch to get in just the right spot is distracting when trying to pay attention to the road.
Ned
Talking from ignorance but why not carry the wires from the pass switch to the high beam switch.
Quote from: ned from PA on November 11, 2014, 07:15:58 PM
Sure, that works. But diddling with the switch to get in just the right spot is distracting when trying to pay attention to the road.
Ned
I would have to kindly disagree to that, its no more diddling then applying your blinkers.
The pass switch would involve a second switch, when I just want the regular dimmer to suffice. Instead of a relay, I realize that all I need to do is route a second hot wire to the low beam. That way, when the high beam comes on, the low beam will receive power from the parallel hot wire.
As for diddling, if I don't overshoot the middle position of the toggle, I agree that it is a quick affair to get both beams to light. But if move the switch too far and then have to swing it back and forth to find the balance point, that qualifies as diddling.
Ned
Wait... Can we do this with an LED bulb? If so is there a direct fit, no filing, LED that'll drop in?
Otherwise I like Philips +50 bulbs.
Thanks.
Quote from: Rallyfan on November 13, 2014, 10:27:43 AM
Wait... Can we do this with an LED bulb? If so is there a direct fit, no filing, LED that'll drop in?
Otherwise I like Philips +50 bulbs.
Thanks.
I've seen some LED H4 bulbs at a motorcycle show once at a booth, but no where on the packaging said they were DOT approved, so I never bought any because I was afraid it would not have the proper light wave length for riding. Sure people can SEE your headlight from further away. but you can't see s**t in front of you.. and makes over riding your headlight super easy.
If there were a true 4300K LED with high/low as in the H4 it'd be ideal for this because of the low power reqs, provided the beams are decent.
Shame.
Here you go:
http://stores.advmonster.com/h4-led-headlight-rev2/
Close enough to midday sun:
(http://www.photographymad.com/files/images/colour-temperature-chart.png)
(Not sure I should post direct links like that here. I am in no way connected to that site or its financials. If inadequate, mods please remove and notify.)
Do you use that LED? Is it a bit blue? Impressions?
The ADVMonster H4 bulb has plenty of good reviews (Sanjoh on ADVRider sells them), but they are physically larger than a normal H4 bulb - so some special fitting is required. A friend of mine installed one on his BMW airhead, and was impressed with the quality of the bulb itself along with the light output.
As to problems with running high and low at the same time: I read somewhere on the internet it was the equivalent to "crossing the streams" with a Ghostbusters proton pack.......
They look good. Has anyone tried them?
Nope, not using it right now. I'm thinking about buying one though. Someone on this forum uses it, can't remember who but he spent a few hours modifying it to fit.
This is the "rev2", though. So if they updated it, I wonder if it fits without modifications now. :dunno_black:
I think I read the previous thread and having to mod it turned me off to the bulb entirely. Hoping for a true drop in also.
I got a round light for my f tone conversion that has a partial halo of LEDs its purrrty bright took it out a 5 am on way to study and I had more visibly cast than a few cars on the road with me
4300k bulb of any type is great for letting people see YOU more. . And they show up line markings/reflectors/redesigns better! ... BUT ... that colouring does NOT work as well for the rider in rural areas! (As the 'standard' colour) ... the whiter light seems to get eaten up quicker at distance by greens/browns/greys. .. so if you are on a back road with no white lines or reflectors you will see less!
City/suburban/freeway type riding is the home of 4300k. ..
Yes I tried it in my bike. Single headlight origin point gives limited effectiveness. .. now the pair I bought are in my Ute. . With the spaced apart/and bigger reflector headlights the problem isn't AS noticeable but still there !
I have no problem with people using 4300k.. . Just be aware of effects eh!
Redesigns? ... pfft. Roadsigns!
Quote from: Janx101 on November 16, 2014, 10:17:42 AM
4300k bulb of any type is great for letting people see YOU more. . And they show up line markings/reflectors/redesigns better! ... BUT ... that colouring does NOT work as well for the rider in rural areas! (As the 'standard' colour) ... the whiter light seems to get eaten up quicker at distance by greens/browns/greys. .. so if you are on a back road with no white lines or reflectors you will see less!
City/suburban/freeway type riding is the home of 4300k. ..
Yes I tried it in my bike. Single headlight origin point gives limited effectiveness. .. now the pair I bought are in my Ute. . With the spaced apart/and bigger reflector headlights the problem isn't AS noticeable but still there !
I have no problem with people using 4300k.. . Just be aware of effects eh!
this is something I was referring too.. you explained it better then I did. lmao but you can get external LED "headlight" bulb things that you can run with your stock light, so you can have light range, plus that "reflector brightness" range.
but the thing I don't like about those bulbs, is they seem to blind on-coming riders/drivers so maybe have a toggle switch near your high/low beam if you're running them.
An issue I haven't seen mentioned in this thread is:
If your light is aimed correctly you will be shinning the light in on-coming drivers eyes with the bright light on.
Just saying.....................
In my area the main beam (bright) may be used during daylight, perhaps specifically because you are correct. If you're in a car and it's daylight you'll see my high beam ON -- though many/most won't see anything at all anyway... Riders remain invisible.