I have had kinda a mystery on my hands concerning my oil. I recently put a new engine into my GS500F we added 3 quarts of 10w40 oil to it. Didn't really check it the oil level figured it was fine. About a month ago I notice I was a little low and add about a quarter of a quart to it. Only to find out last week before I made a big trip that I was almost completely empty. I had nothing on the dipstick. I add a full quart of oil to it and it made it about half way to three quarters of the way to full. I have had no leaks or anything coming from the engine since the rebuild. I have read on line that even after adding three quarts that some people have to add a little more when it is warm. What would make me run out of a quart of oil? Also if my oil was that low wouldn't my oil light come on? Also what is the best way to check the oil. I have heard on the center stand. I have heard straight up just sitting on it. Also, the next question that I am curious about is do I check it hot or cold? Considering that the bike is leaning to the left when it is on it's kickstand how much time should I give the oil to level out?
Thanks.
Were you reading it with the bike on the side stand, by chance? It reads much different than on the center stand. I read it only in the center stand.
Also, the oil light only measures oil pressure, not oil level. So you could be very low on oil but not see the light.
From Haynes Manual:
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New or newly rebuilt engines can and usually do have high oil consumption until they "break in"...in fact the reduction in consumption is an indication that the break in is complete...
The oil light shows oil pressure, not oil volume.....so even with a quart or two low, you may have enough oil pressure to keep the light off.....but running with too little oil is dangerous and it is possible to get a sudden drop in pressure with low oil volume...
The oil should be checked with the engine warmed up to normal operating temperature, and then shut off and left to sit for 4 minutes or so, so the oil drains back into the bottom of the engine...
Mine reads a bit HIGHER when warm...(hot oil expands??)
You should check the oil with the bike held level, front to back and side to side level....on its own wheels, not on center stand, not on side stand...
You unscrew the oil cap/dipstick and wipe clean... then insert the dip stick into the engine, but DO NOT SCREW IT IN....just let is sit...then check level...
When I have the bike on the side stand, and I check the oil...I hold the bike level for maybe 20 seconds, for the oil to settle level in the sump..
Cookie
Quote from: shadow8586 on December 15, 2014, 05:39:00 AM
I have had kinda a mystery on my hands concerning my oil. I recently put a new engine into my GS500F we added 3 quarts of 10w40 oil to it. Didn't really check it the oil level figured it was fine. About a month ago I notice I was a little low and add about a quarter of a quart to it. Only to find out last week before I made a big trip that I was almost completely empty. I had nothing on the dipstick. I add a full quart of oil to it and it made it about half way to three quarters of the way to full. I have had no leaks or anything coming from the engine since the rebuild. I have read on line that even after adding three quarts that some people have to add a little more when it is warm. What would make me run out of a quart of oil? Also if my oil was that low wouldn't my oil light come on? Also what is the best way to check the oil. I have heard on the center stand. I have heard straight up just sitting on it. Also, the next question that I am curious about is do I check it hot or cold? Considering that the bike is leaning to the left when it is on it's kickstand how much time should I give the oil to level out?
Thanks.
Quote from: shadow8586 on December 15, 2014, 05:39:00 AM
I have had kinda a mystery on my hands concerning my oil. I recently put a new engine into my GS500F we added 3 quarts of 10w40 oil to it.
1)a) Didn't really check it the oil level figured it was fine.
b)About a month ago I notice I was a little low and add about a quarter of a quart to it.
2) Only to find out last week before I made a big trip that I was almost completely empty. I had nothing on the dipstick.
3) I add a full quart of oil to it and it made it about half way to three quarters of the way to full. I have had no leaks or anything coming from the engine since the rebuild. I have read on line that even after adding three quarts that some people have to add a little more when it is warm.
4) What would make me run out of a quart of oil?
5) Also if my oil was that low wouldn't my oil light come on?
6) Also what is the best way to check the oil. I have heard on the center stand. I have heard straight up just sitting on it.
7) Also, the next question that I am curious about is do I check it hot or cold?
8) Considering that the bike is leaning to the left when it is on it's kickstand how much time should I give the oil to level out?
Thanks.
1a- huh ? new engine, did not check ? recalculating....
1b- adding oil when low is a good idea.
2- incorrect. 'off the stick' and 'empty' are not the same thing. you were likely 1/3 of a quart down from FULL.
3- see 2
4- riding it, it's an air cooled engine, it burns oil while at speed
5- no. oil pressure light, NOT oil level light.
6- level ground, with you sitting on it OR the center stand. always check in the same position.
7- always check it on two occasions:
a) after refueling (see google for tclocks)
and
b) after ending your riding for the day
the reasons for this are two fold: you'll have an idea of your consumption throughout a long ride, and you'll know it's oil level for tomorrows ride.
8- see 6
additional, the oil is checked by unscrewing the dipstick completely, wiping it off, PLACING IT ON THE THREADS (not screwing it in!) and then checking the level.
Quote from: twocool on December 15, 2014, 05:53:12 AM
DO NOT SCREW IT IN
Thanks! I've always wondered about that exact subtlety.My workshop manual doesnt explain that!
Get an owner's manual from the internet........
It explains lots of those kinds of things.....
Cookie
Quote from: Ron888 on December 15, 2014, 06:41:03 AM
Quote from: twocool on December 15, 2014, 05:53:12 AM
DO NOT SCREW IT IN
Thanks! I've always wondered about that exact subtlety.My workshop manual doesnt explain that!
When it comes to oil usage there needs to be some distinction between burning and evaporating. Thrash a good condition GS5 through the desert all day and it will evaporate more oil than it burns, totally normal owing to the design and nature of the engine but not oils are the same and some oils are more prone to evaporation than others.
Air cooled engines running in hot ambients need an oil with a low volatility (or evaporation rate). Mobil1 is amongst the best of the SAE40s
http://www.motorcyclenews.com/new-rider/2010/december/dec1510-know-your-bikes-oil-consumption-/ (http://www.motorcyclenews.com/new-rider/2010/december/dec1510-know-your-bikes-oil-consumption-/)
Quote from: sledge on December 15, 2014, 03:02:14 PM
When it comes to oil usage there needs to be some distinction between burning and evaporating. Thrash a good condition GS5 through the desert all day and it will evaporate more oil than it burns, totally normal owing to the design and nature of the engine but not oils are the same and some oils are more prone to evaporation than others.
Air cooled engines running in hot ambients need an oil with a low volatility (or evaporation rate). Mobil1 is amongst the best of the SAE40s
http://www.motorcyclenews.com/new-rider/2010/december/dec1510-know-your-bikes-oil-consumption-/ (http://www.motorcyclenews.com/new-rider/2010/december/dec1510-know-your-bikes-oil-consumption-/)
Well said. Their 20w-50 is amongst the best in its category, too.
Is it safe to use the Mobil1 automotive oil in the GS, or do I need to get the MC-specific stuff?
Isn't 20w-50 too heavy, especially for winter riding?
Sorry to threadjack, but I'm expecting to face similar issues to the OP on my project bike. :)
Motorcyle specific or your clutch will give you a fit.
regards
mech
JASO rated at least!
That's what I've always heard, but one of the FAQs (on GStwin.com I think) said it's fine to use Auto oil, as long as it's not 'energy conserving' or 'friction modified'.
Quote from: Old Mechanic on December 15, 2014, 09:21:47 PM (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=68330.msg821762#msg821762)<blockquote>Motorcyle specific or your clutch will give you a fit.
regards
mech
</blockquote>
You're good, you wouldn't use energy conserving anythingW-30 anyway.
Diesel/HDEO is better (and cheaper) than PCMO (additive package, shear stability, etc).
Just look for the petrol rating, too!
Like: API CI-4/SL
If you want to be absolutely sure, look for the Allison C4 rating on it, too. That's a wet clutch transmission test for certain big rigs.
I was wondering if the diesel oil comment would pop up.
I always ran Mobil Delvac in my '02 Bandit 1200, with no issues at all.
I'll probably (after whatever I use for testing and such) go with that same oil on the GS, unless you guys think that's a bad idea.
I'm all for using the right tool for the job, but not when the 'right tool' is twice the cost for no real benefit.
It's always seemed to be that motorcycle specific oils are pricey because they can be, not because they're really all that different from other motor oils.
Please correct me if I'm wrong. After all, I'm hear to learn. :)
-Mike
P.S. - Sorry to threadjack Shadow, I'm hoping some of this info is useful to you as well.
Valvoline Super Diesel 15/40 with zero issues, almost no oil loss (300ml/5000km) and silky gear changes STILL! -1000km till next service. .. maybe I'm just lucky.... the oil is described as for high temp high km diesel engines. . But the bike loves it. .. Jaso rated also
Nice! I'll see if I can find that around here.
Sounds like it might be what we call "premium blue" over on this side of the pond.
My 02 GS has gone 100k miles on JASO-MA rated 15W-40 Rotella T available at any Walmart or auto parts store. Same type of heavy duty, truck, diesel type of oil as Janx's Valvoline and as all the other major oil companies make.
See the addendum at the bottom of this article:
http://www.vfrworld.com/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm
Yes that's what i've always heard and read.My GS500 workshop manual only talks about API classification motor oil. That said,using specific bike rated oils can only be better
Quote from: Elmojo on December 16, 2014, 07:48:37 AM
That's what I've always heard, but one of the FAQs (on GStwin.com I think) said it's fine to use Auto oil, as long as it's not 'energy conserving' or 'friction modified'.
Quote from: Old Mechanic on December 15, 2014, 09:21:47 PM (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=68330.msg821762#msg821762)<blockquote>Motorcyle specific or your clutch will give you a fit.
regards
mech
</blockquote>
I too have always wondered about diesel oils.Occasionally we'll use some to top up one of dad's petrol vehicles because we've heard it is 'better' the normal car oil (assuming equal ratings),and we just happen to have some close by. I never did find out if it's true!
I've never tried diesel oil in a bike.
I simply use normal car oils because i always treat my best vehicles with XcelPlus- the only engine oil additive i've found that truly works.
I mainly use the valentine because I have a 44gallon drum of it! For trucks I had. Lol. .. but it happens to work well in the bike, as the others have said the brand isn't as important as the number rating and the type rating...
Like that royal purple for cars and such. . Its might be good oil.. but what it especially is. .. is good marketing!
BTW I have used the oil in the trucks for a combined 1.9 million km over 20 years with no actual oil related problems
Valentine? Sigh. .. autocorrect... valvoline. .. but y'all knew that. .. I'm just over tired now ..
Quote from: Janx101 on December 18, 2014, 10:55:31 PM
BTW I have used the oil in the trucks for a combined 1.9 million km over 20 years with no actual oil related problems
Damn Janx! Now that's a good resumé :icon_exclaim:
Problem is only you guys get that stuff down there...
QuoteProblem is only you guys get that stuff down there...
From looking at the Valvoline web site, it appears that the "Valvoline Super Diesel 15/40" that Janx referred to is the same oil that's sold in the
US as Premium Blue Diesel Engine Oil (http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/valvoline/diesel-motor-oil/10) or possibly the Premium Blue Extreme Engine Oil (http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/valvoline/diesel-motor-oil/11).
Of course, I could be wrong, this was just the result of a quick google search. If anyone knows otherwise, please let us know. I'll be looking to pick up some of the above unless someone dissuades me.
-Mike
As gsJack said though guys, it doesn't have to be valvoline! .. any good quality and correct rating oil should do it. .. the premium / high end bit is probably more important. ..
Depends on your relative costs too. .. I have a huge drum that my business income paid for. .. I don't like the idea of paying extra price for 'super dooper' bike oil. ...
The reason we first used the oil was its meant for high hours, turbo charged diesel, hot conditions. .. in transport trucks..
The situ being that it works so well in my bike is the cream!... not the cake!
I use diesel oil in my turbo gasoline car, my bike, even my mower. I did a used oil analysis on the car, great results; I'm not going to send a bike sample to a lab and won't mention the mower...