Hello all, I'm 19 and bought my bike last winter off a craigslist ad, 1994 gs500e for 800 dollars. when i bought it the guy said it needed new float bowl gaskets and a boot for one of the sparkplugs. Close to a year later and i haven't gotten the thing to run. This is where i'm finally going to post my journey and hopefully by the end I'll be riding. Wish me luck! :icon_confused:
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i love the white frame!
Looks like a fun project! These bikes are very simple so it shouldn't be long before you've got it running.
the white sure does look good! grind off the black paint on the tips of the cooling fins on the engine. it would look super clean with that white paint.
Okay so I know i just opened this thread but i wanted to mention everything i've done since i bought it.
-changed sparkplugs
-new boots for sparkplugs
-float bowl gaskets (took a while because the bolts were practically locked on there)
-new float bowl cover, old one was cracked
-bled the brakes
After this i get all ready and hit the ignition and... nothing. :dunno_black: (PS: it turned over when i bought it)
so i grab a screw driver and connect the two ends of the starter and it turns over. so where's the problem? well after looking over the wiring diagrams it looks like it's either a faulty side stand switch. or side stand relay. both of which are now sitting in wait for me to put them on and try again.
Also the plastic in the throttle was chewed up and not allowing the grip to spring back into position so a new throttle body and cable are also waiting. I probably wont have an update until it warms up a bit. But when i do there will be pics!
Quote from: MrSporrer on January 16, 2015, 11:47:28 PM
Okay so I know i just opened this thread but i wanted to mention everything i've done since i bought it.
-changed sparkplugs
-new boots for sparkplugs
-float bowl gaskets (took a while because the bolts were practically locked on there)
-new float bowl cover, old one was cracked
-bled the brakes
After this i get all ready and hit the ignition and... nothing. :dunno_black: (PS: it turned over when i bought it)
so i grab a screw driver and connect the two ends of the starter and it turns over. so where's the problem? well after looking over the wiring diagrams it looks like it's either a faulty side stand switch. or side stand relay. both of which are now sitting in wait for me to put them on and try again.
Also the plastic in the throttle was chewed up and not allowing the grip to spring back into position so a new throttle body and cable are also waiting. I probably wont have an update until it warms up a bit. But when i do there will be pics!
after I rebuilt my engine recently my first start up failed because something wasn't connected. turns out it was the clutch safety sensor. the one that won't let you start the bike without it plugged in? yeah my bikes wasn't plugged in, because it didn't have the switch installed yet. so I just bridged the two connectors with a copper wire.
basically, make sure those two wires are plugged in.. lol
you can also bridge any of these "safety" features on the bike, just get use to not having them! Lol! :-X
So i finally got some time the other day to do a little work on the project I started last summer, i installed the new throttle and it feels way better, the old one wasn't springing back as a result of the inside plastic being broken slightly. Went to install the new kickstand switch and the conectors were different, must be from a different year. So i'm thinking ill have to strip both sides and put some connectors on. In other news could someone tell me what these plugs are for? they are from the harness behind the headlight, all 6 seem to have no place to connect?
thanks
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I think the first 2 wires are for a turn signal- 2 of the second bundle of wires may be for a turn signal as well.
Yesterday I got my motorcycle license and today I got the bike running, it took some cranks and throttle but she runs. Problem is if I just let the throttle go the bike stalls, I'm not sure why. Any ideas?
I am sorry I don't have any advice... I am sure others will chime in soon ;)
I just wanted to say that I admire the complete black and white look you've achieved! What back tire is that?
And as your first post dictates... luck has been wished :thumb:
Tires are kenda challengers, the guy I bought the bike off had them on but hadn't ridden them yet. Still have the nipples. And thanks I am thinking about some white decals on the tail too to balance the look.
You set the idle screw right ? You open that up to keep it "idling"
How about air screws. Set those to 3 out from lightly seated.
Off the choke in 30 sec in summer it should hold idle around 1300 (if you set the idle screw to 1300 ... and all the rest is OK).
Cool.
Buddha.
Tomorrow i will try tuning the air screws and the idle screw and see if it helps, but as the bike has been sitting for a while i'd like to clean out the fuel line and petcock, anyone know of a thread explaining the steps to doing so? Thanks!
Does anyone have a picture of where the air screws are? I need to tune the bike, the bike will not stall above 2500 but if I just let it drop below it'll stall. Uhg so close
Don't quote me yet. . But aren't they the ones under the little brass caps in the sides? ... I think? .. wait for someone to confirm that tho!
found some pictures here http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=36354.0 so ill have to try unfortunately im having a second problem now.
Now the throttle seems to be sticking, like at 3000 rpm and up it stick and wont go back down, must be a problem in the cable since the throttle snaps back fine.
back to cranking with no start, one step forward two steps back. Could this be the result of a cloged petcock? is there a screen up in there that catches junk from the tank? thanks for any help. Once i have the thing running properly i will start posting about cosmetic changes i'll be doing, then the thread will get more interesting.
uhg at least it's the prettiest statue in my yard at the moment.
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Did you try running it with a pony tank to eliminate the petcock? There are plenty of threads on here about how to test/repair them. I think the hanging idle could be the mixing screws are not set properly yet. Just working on my carbs at the moment and having some troubles myself. Try adjusting 1/4 turn at a time. Also check to see that the two lock nuts for your throttle cable are adjusted properly. I made that mistake too.
Pony tank? I've never heard that terminology what is it mean? and yeah I suspect that the trouble starting is from gunked up fuel lines or carb, and then the idle is from fuel to air being off. I need the machine to be on so that i can tune it enough to drive it to the shop where my guy can do it with the necessary tools.
ill get back to this question on my phone later. Working on some truck brakes right now.
Try searching for Auxiliary fuel tank in Amazon. This should give you an idea of what I call a pony tank. Are you trying to start it with or without the air box on?
with the airbox on, today I took the petcock apart and can't seem to find any problem, I also drained some gross looking fuel from the carb. but after putting everything back together if i turn the frame petcock to prime then try to drain the carb nothing comes out on either side? does this mean something is blocking the passage of fuel?
on a separate note upon flipping the tank over with gas in it the gas cap started pouring fuel all over me. Is this a bad gasket in the cap possibly?
When you took the carbs apart did you check and clean your jets? It doesn't take a big piece of crud from old nasty gas to bugger them up. Sounds like you have a bad frame petcock. If the inside of your tank is in bad shape it won't matter how many times you clean those carbs, they'll clog every time.
You need fresh gas, a clean tank and then run your fuel line straight to your CLEAN carbs. Leave out the petcock for now. Try to start it without the airbox and see if you can get it to idle.
if you're sure nothing is gummed up in the petcock or the tank petcock. you can remove it with 2 screws under the tank, if you've got half the fuel, you can tip it towards the top of the tank. or the sides. or just drain it. and remove those two screws and check the inner screen.
Also it kind of sounds like the idle screws [you have two of them on the bike.] one you see with the plastic cap that you can mess with with everything installed. and one where the throttle cables are attached its just a screw and you have to adjust it off the bike..
So first off I jump the gun on the carb not draining in PRI because after i posted that I went back out and it would drain but i couldn't take time to do it at the moment, so i just needed to give it a few minutes to get through the carb. today i will drain them and see if the gas is super dirty or not.
This is the first I'm hearing of a second idle screw, where is it at exactly? you said near the throttle cable, so on top of the carb somewhere? a picture would be super helpful.
finally does anyone know if my fuel system is dirty if I can use an additive like "SEAFOME" I've heard its praises sung here and other places as a clean all! but will it only work if the engine is already running? Thank you for all the help on the bike, I got my motorcycle license through the MSP last weekend and I'm getting antsy to ride!
Your fuel system essentially consists of your tank, carbs, frame and tank petcocks and hoses if I'm not mistaken. You might want to keep it simple. Are you getting flow from the tank fuel chicken? Frame petcock? Carbs clean? Clean fuel hoses?
Also, I think the screw jwalker is referring to is the carb sync screw. If you haven't already, you might want to go through the sticky that was posted on the forum....and maybe get yourself a haynes or clymer manual.
I just had the same problem on my '95 bike. Almost identical situation, bought used on CL for about $700. She was idling at about 3500 RPMs after warmed up. I cleaned the carbs, petcock, and replaced the fuel lines and she works like a dream. My frame petcock was completely trash and I had to get a rebuild kit for it.
As for your concern with flipping he gas tank upside down there should be a vent underneath the gas cap that leaks if you flip the tank (ran into that problem when I removed it to get to the carbs).
Hope this helps, once you get it running people will be stunned a bike this old performs so well.
Okay so tomorrow I'm probably going to clean the carb, should I buy a rebuild kit and jets? Or just clean and put back together. The frame petcock, and tank petcock work so the problem is definitely in the carb. I probably could use an air filter too. Pictures tomorrow if I take apart the carb and frame petcock.
Okay so after eliminating the frame petcock and tank and just running from gas can to carb, new air filter installed, and it starts up then idles at around 3500 to 4000 rpms and idles for 5 to 10 minutes until it stalls unless I blip on the throttle.
So basically idles high and stalls at the low end, do I need to rebuild the carb or just clean it? Ugh this is frustrating.
Woah! New problem? Maybe this symptom will help figure out the answer, so I just tried putting the bike into gear, and it died. So could this mean that an electronic problem is pulling electricity and at low rpms the alternator isn't providing enough power to spark!? Ideas? Help!? Solution?! Thank you to anyone who has helped and will help this community is the best!
In gear and dies.. side stand down or side stand switch/wiring faulty
Dying after short time. Maybe fuel flow or vacuum lacking/leaking with changed lines?
High idle. . Carb boots or mixture wrong?
Others should be more exact with info. But I wouldn't wrap it all together. . Solve one problem at a time.
Change/investigate too much simultaneously and its hard to be sure you have individual items corrected
Quote from: Janx101 on June 03, 2015, 04:50:06 PM
In gear and dies.. side stand down or side stand switch/wiring faulty
Dying after short time. Maybe fuel flow or vacuum lacking/leaking with changed lines?
High idle. . Carb boots or mixture wrong?
Others should be more exact with info. But I wouldn't wrap it all together. . Solve one problem at a time.
Change/investigate too much simultaneously and its hard to be sure you have individual items corrected
Did you try ugging the vacuum port from the LH carb? If you have a CA set up this may be leading to a vacuum leak that may explain the high idle. You got it started though, awesome! Don't give up you're almost there!
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Stupid spell check. ***plugging*** and I'm not sure of just CA models have this vacuum port, maybe someone else knows. Still need to and see if you left it open though.
Janx is right, one.problem at a time.
So I ordered a new side stand relay because I replaced my side stand switch already. I guess i really am gonna have to take apart the carbs and clean them.
The black on white really works well together. I'm debating doing white forks too but with black frame and black cherry tank and fairings....
thank you, and that sounds cool deep red and white frame. i'm thinking of doing white stripe down the tank and front fender
The carb and petcock are cleaned! :woohoo: but i'm missing those springs under the air screws so i ordered a pair off bike bandit. now i have to wait till Thursday for my sidestand relay then we'll see if its any better.
Carb back in, same issues, bike still stalls anywhere bellow 2000rpm. No idea where to go from here, replaced the sidestand switch and relay yet bike stalls in gear. Starting to consider taking it to a mechanic, In over my head.
Quote from: MrSporrer on June 20, 2015, 09:50:26 AM
Carb back in, same issues, bike still stalls anywhere bellow 2000rpm. No idea where to go from here, replaced the sidestand switch and relay yet bike stalls in gear. Starting to consider taking it to a mechanic, In over my head.
Sounds like a air/fuel mixture problem. Is there a pop or burp coming from the carbs before it cuts out?
yes I have experienced fuel vapor puffing into the airbox after stall, but I set the airscrews to 3 turns out as stated by the manual.
Mr Sporrer, if you start a dedicated thread to your carb problem, you're much more likely to get responses.
To me it almost sounds like it's running on one cylinder. Try pulling one spark plug boot off at a time while it is running (but don'thave your other hand on anything metal when pulling the boots!). If the engine dies when you pull one boot but not the other, you found the problem side.
When you said you cleaned the carbs, how exactly did you do it? If you're running on both cylinders but can't keep a decent idle, your pilot jets may still be clogged.
I followed this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQ2Crz1wVts (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQ2Crz1wVts) and used a guitar string to clean out the jets, and both cylinders are definitely firing but I have heard a miss every so often, maybe the missing causes the stall at low rpm? used to happen on a mustang I owned.
Ok. A guitar string works well for the Jets themselves, but the passage ways in and out of the jets can still be clogged slightly. Boiling the carbs in a concoction is one solution, along with ultrasonic cleaners....
So you tried the pulling one spark plug boot at a time thing I mentioned earlier? Just checking....
Check you float level using the clear hose method. If they look ok, start the bike with the hose still connected to the carb bowl and see if the level drops.
Are all the o rings on the carbs in place? It sounds like a lean condition.
I pulled off the boot on one of the plugs and the bike ran? also when taking off the plug i felt some shock even through the boot? Like I mentioned in over my head here not even sure how a two cylinder could run with only one firing. wouldnt the other just keep filling with gas vapor?
Quick question, how much would it cost for a mechanic to look at my bike and tell me what's wrong then I could fix the problem?
As always thank you, I promise that once the bike is running properly there will be another thread where I do cosmetic changes and such.
Can run through some troubleshooting steps to point you in the right direction, since I was/am having some issues as well:
- Pull plug wires (individually) while bike is running. Is there a dip in the speed or no change? If there is absolutely no change in idle/running when you pull the wire, it could be you are only firing on one cylinder. Replace the plug wire to the plug and check the other side. If the bike dies, there is your problem. You can also verify this by revving slightly to warm up the exhaust pipes. Take a small bit of water and lightly splash the exhaust pipes. If one steams/evaporates and the other doesn't, it is a dead cylinder.
- Stalling at low RPMs could also mean pilot jet, idle speed adjustment (if available), or air/fuel problems.
- Vacuum leaks. Spray some carb cleaner/WD40/starter fluid around vacuum hoses and intake manifold boots. Changes in RPM indicate a vacuum leak in the lines/seal and should be replaced.
- Compression test. Rent a compression tool (Autozone) and see if you are getting compression in both cylinders to rule out any other major engine issues.
Quote from: MrSporrer on June 24, 2015, 10:36:38 AM
I pulled off the boot on one of the plugs and the bike ran? also when taking off the plug i felt some shock even through the boot? Like I mentioned in over my head here not even sure how a two cylinder could run with only one firing. wouldnt the other just keep filling with gas vapor?
Quick question, how much would it cost for a mechanic to look at my bike and tell me what's wrong then I could fix the problem?
As always thank you, I promise that once the bike is running properly there will be another thread where I do cosmetic changes and such.
The bike will run off one cylinder and yes you will get a shock when pulling the lead , wear a rubber glove next time. And yes the other cylinder will fill with gas vapour, that is if it is getting fuel. But it will just blow out the exhaust, its no big deal. Did you try pulling the other boot? If so what happened?
As for how much a mechanic will charge you to look at the bike depends on how much the mechanic charges per hour. I don't know any mechanics that will diagnose a problem for you and then allow you to fix it, but you might get lucky.
So after some tests I have decided that the left cylinder is not firing or missing almost constantly, after a very short run (like a minute) the right exhast pipe was hot enough that you didn't wanna touch it for very long while the left was cold. So this changes everything as now I need to find what is causing this problem. I recall that upon purchase of the bike the original owner said it needed a new boot for that side and i just replaced them both.
I realize this is worst case scenario and im jumping the gun but if this is a case where I'll need a rebuild, is it worth it?
Also is it dangerous to take off both spark plugs and test them out of the cylinders?
Quote from: MrSporrer on June 26, 2015, 10:57:47 AM
So after some tests I have decided that the left cylinder is not firing or missing almost constantly, after a very short run (like a minute) the right exhast pipe was hot enough that you didn't wanna touch it for very long while the left was cold. So this changes everything as now I need to find what is causing this problem. I recall that upon purchase of the bike the original owner said it needed a new boot for that side and i just replaced them both.
I realize this is worst case scenario and im jumping the gun but if this is a case where I'll need a rebuild, is it worth it?
Also is it dangerous to take off both spark plugs and test them out of the cylinders?
Well you are jumping the gun a bit - worst case scenario is that you have a compression issue. That part is time consuming or expensive, and/or potentially both. If you are ambitious, you could repair it, but that takes time and parts. Worst case scenario is purchasing a used engine; prices may vary, but looking at 300-800 bucks. Most other problems are relatively inexpensive. So before we panic, let's isolate the issue.
You need three things for fun times: compression, fuel/air, and heat (spark). If you are short or absent any of those, you are gonna have a bad time. First, verify you are getting fire (spark) by getting a spark plug tester. It runs 10-15 bucks - alternatively, you can ground it to the engine head, like the dangerous rogue I am, but safety and all that...
If you are not getting a spark, or it is weak (yellow colored), it is either the plug, the wires, or the coil. If you are getting a spark, congratulations, we get to move on to the more challenging issues. ;)
Next, check the compression. The proper way is to get a compression tester. Alternatively, there are more redneck methods. Basically, compression is squishing air inside the cylinder. If it isn't strong enough, it means it is leaking past the rings in your pistons and that means lack of power and potentially lack of combustion. Gut feeling: I think your bike will pass this test.
In my case, it was a stuck intake valve not closing all the way. So instead of the gas being sealed inside the cylinder and exploding like it should, it would be shot back out during the compression stroke into the carb and air filter. Mmmmm, gas mist. You can test this as well - take the airbox/air filter off and place your hand behind the offending carb side. Test at idle and with some gentle revs. If you feel air or misty gas blowing back onto your hand, guess what, you probably have a stuck valve. You can read about my woes here: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=69137.0
Ok, let's assume your valves are sealing and you have compression and you have spark. That leaves fuel delivery, aka the carb. The left side of the carb is not doing what it is supposed to. Clean it. Clean it some more. Clean it again. Check for any damage to the diaphragms, jets, needles, and hoses. Is the fuel screw turned all the way in? Is a jet clogged? Are the carbs in sync? These, and many more potential mysteries abound.
Thank you, I just bought new plugs so if there's a problem in that area it would be in the plug cable or coil, explain if you could the best way to test them the by grounding them to the engine head?
Why do you doubt that it is a compression issue? That's a good thing just wondering if one of the symptoms keyed you in.
Also if I decide I'm a lazy sob how much would a shop charge to find out which one of these is causing the problem and fix it for me? (yeah I know it sounds like a waste of cash but I'm itching to ride)
Lastly thank you for the input!
1 cyl losing spark can be due to a bad auxillary ground. Its the thinner black wire coming off the battery.
Cool.
Buddha.
The Buddha, you mention the auxiliary ground, how would I test this?
Quote from: MrSporrer on June 26, 2015, 10:31:02 PM
Thank you, I just bought new plugs so if there's a problem in that area it would be in the plug cable or coil, explain if you could the best way to test them the by grounding them to the engine head?
Why do you doubt that it is a compression issue? That's a good thing just wondering if one of the symptoms keyed you in.
Also if I decide I'm a lazy sob how much would a shop charge to find out which one of these is causing the problem and fix it for me? (yeah I know it sounds like a waste of cash but I'm itching to ride)
Lastly thank you for the input!
Testing a Spark Plug
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUOmsGiirTU
As far as compression issue, call it a gut feeling. Compression issues, generally speaking, are due to excessive engine wear or a catastrophic failure which damages either the piston, piston rings, or cylinder walls. A little compression loss means that you may be burning some oil as it is not sealing completely. A lot of compression loss means that too much pressure is escaping past the piston to generate power. Same principle as a bullet from a gun; there is a explosion that propels gas forward that must escape out the barrel. I can't say with authority that you don't have a compression problem, because we haven't tested it. So test it, and find out.
Testing Compression
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uj8YDwlILwY
Mechanic pricing has no constant, but assume the going rate is ~100/hour. Motorcycle mechanics are more inflated than car mechanics. Oil change on a bike here is $100-$150, which is downright bananas. Call around and ask, that is the best advice I can give. Explain what you have already checked, and that helps them ballpark repair costs.
Trust me when I know that you are anxious to get back on two wheels; I know I am. However, nothing beats the feeling of knowing you were able to fix it yourself and save 300-900 bucks. So take Shia's advice and...
Alright thanks, any idea what Buddha meant about the battery needing grounded?
The Aux ground is a smaller black cable that comes off the back of your negative (black end) battery terminal. If it is faulty, that can causes issues. It goes into a cable connector clip thing. There is a technical name for it, but it's been a long day, so words fail me. I'll try to get a picture of it when I get a free moment here. Anyway, check the condition of the cables and the connector. I am sure someone with an electrical background will tell you how to test with a multi-meter.
Also, you can get a multi-meter for free or dirty cheap from your local Harbor Freight, if you don't have one. They are very useful for troubleshooting electrical issues. I, however, do not know how to use them well, so maybe Buddha or someone else would be able to guide you there.
Quote from: MrSporrer on June 27, 2015, 10:28:02 PM
Alright thanks, any idea what Buddha meant about the battery needing grounded?
Set the multi-meter to continuity and then secure one of the probes to the frame where it makes good contact, place the other on the negative terminal. now wiggle the black cable that connects to the frame, if the reading changes you have a bad connection. Probably 30% of electrical problems are a bad connection..
Here's test number one. what do you think?
https://youtu.be/4Jj3jhq0PGI
Quote from: MrSporrer on July 02, 2015, 09:37:16 AM
Here's test number one. what do you think?
https://youtu.be/4Jj3jhq0PGI
I think you have both plugs with a spark, so that is good. The second spark plug's spark looks yellow compared to the first, which was a nice bright blue, but that is all I can tell. So unless someone else says otherwise, it looks like you are in business from the spark side of things.
the compression test shows 120 psi in the right and 60 psi in the left.
What should it be, obviously more than 60 but is the right side good at 120?
Probably going to call around for estimates knowing what I know now. Just want to ride.
Sorry to hear that man, that is the crappy part. Could be blown piston rings, or other nastiness. Can't speak to compression rates, just that they should be over 100 and within 10% of each other. Best of luck on the repairs!
Mr, I can't remember if you said it earlier, but when we're your valves done last? If the valve clearances are out of spec, you can get really low compression numbers.
Oh yeah, good point - could be leaking past the intake or exhaust valves. I checked mine by hooking up an air compressor to the compression tester tool. I set the engine to R TDC and sure enough, air shot through the intake port.
Remove your air filter/airbox and seat - place your hand behind the carb and try to rev the bike a bit. If you feel air/gas blowing back into your hand, you have a stuck valve on that side. Which is exactly the same issue I had, left side on mine.
Alright, so this is what happened.. I took my bike to a local shop that said that it would be a grand with parts for a top end rebuild. Then after a few weeks they called and said the parts got there and they don't have a mechanic so they could make it into a winter project and they would finish it in the fall possibly the winter, I called another guy who said it wasn't worth fixing but I'm in the hole 1250 now with the cost of whatever parts the shop bought already, I have no where to do the rebuild myself.
I feel kinda screwed. 1250 into a bike that doesn't run and is only worth 1300 in great condition, if I pay the shop for 10 hours of work over the winter there's no guarantee that it runs perfect...
Any one know a good mechanic in the Pittsburgh area that I can trust. Any advice on my next move?
Wait, you're in the Pittsburgh area? Where at? I'm in Ellwood City (near New Castle) and might be able to lend a hand.
I live in west view in the north hills. I took my bike to Crossroads Motorsports in Gibsonia and they had like 3 techs quit in the past few weeks.
Yeah, bike shops are always a gamble.
Let me see what's going on for my days off, and maybe we can see about getting that GS on the road. Do you have a truck or something to haul the bike around? I prefer to work in my own garage.....
I do have a truck, the bike is currently at their shop I will go get it this week sometime, I honestly don't even know what they bought. She said $250 for parts and as far as I can tell from looking around that must include pistons right? If so I wonder if they are stock or if they expected to have to bore it out and the pistons are .30 over to account for the machining? I'll know for sure when I go and pick it up.
Also thank you to any help you can give!
Very nice Mr Rich. Hopefully you can teach him a trick or two and he will end up with a runner. :thumb:
It's tough to say what all they bought for parts. Send me a pm when you get the bike (and parts) from the shop. I still need to see what's going on this week....I work 4 days on, 4 days off so I really have a 50-50 chance of being off any given day.
Great Day!!!
So I went up to see BigRich and he went through the valve clearences with me and we messed with the petcock, and eventually...
She ran! on both cylinders!
Then the problem arose of the bike dying when shifted into gear. after doing a quick test we found that either the sidestand relay or the sidestand switch and I'm just going to delete the safety feature for the time being.
TO GET
new steering stem bearings
a multitude of gaskets and O rings
carb boots
clutch lever
valve clearance shim
Anyone have a trusted place for aftermarket steering stem bearings?
Big thanks to BigRich! Great community we have here.
I always get my bearings from www.denniskirk.com, but it doesn't matter too much where you get them from.
Glad to help man!
Do you have a link to them at that site it doesn't have any listed that match the gs500e.
Hmmm, Denniskirk didn't have them. Motorcycle SSuperstore does though:
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/21652/i/all-balls-steering-stem-bearing-kit
Bearings are common power supply store item. Motion industries, bearing distributors, grainger etc etc etc have em.
Get tapered roller ones with a steel cage, not the cheap a$$ plastic cage.
Shims - yes, make sure they're not the Chinese crap breaking kind.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: Slack on April 13, 2015, 10:32:14 AM
I think the first 2 wires are for a turn signal- 2 of the second bundle of wires may be for a turn signal as well.
This guy is right :) I'm doing some work on my turn signals at the moment.
Left turn signal
- White/Black : Ground
- Green(ish) : 12v
Right turn signal
- White/Black : Ground
- Black : 12v
7 years later I now own my own garage so I brought this bike back from my parents in the hopes of finishing what I started when I was a teenager. Unfortunately it seems the years have not been good to her.
- left carb is seized
- photo attached looking in on left intake, Gonna take the top end off and look in there better but I'd say it's over.
Looks like you've got your work cut out for you. Good luck! :)
7 years! Goes by so fast eh? I hope you'll post your journey bringing it back!