What a frustrating time I'm having with this bike. It's a 2009 GS500F. I took the carbs off and brought them to a bike shop to have them overhauled since they'd been sitting for three years with fuel in them. When I get them back 8 days later I suddenly don't have enough hoses for all ports coming off the carbs. Things look like they've been put on backwards and on the wrong spot, but I'm not entirely sure.
Tomorrow morning I'll post pictures of the ports in confused about, but in the mean time if anyone has pictures of either useful diagrams or of their own bike that would be helpful.
Here's the picture that everyone lives by. Tough to read at first, for me anyway, but stare at it and your bike long enough and it'll make sense. Then take a break and look at it a week later and it'll all make perfect sense.
[attachment deleted by admin]
Is that for all the fuel lines?
I just bought a Haynes manual for up to the '08 model. Hopefully that will help a little.
Quote from: ragecage23 on April 11, 2015, 10:58:30 PM
Is that for all the fuel lines?
That's for 89-00 fuel lines, there are 3 different frame petcocks used over the years. All years have same tank petcock:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/GS500fuelcocks_zpsfcb7992c.jpg
I have this going to...
(http://i1021.photobucket.com/albums/af336/ragecage23/1EDCE8E7-CB1E-4CC4-8176-225814663D8C.jpg)
...here
(http://i1021.photobucket.com/albums/af336/ragecage23/8690540F-2D1F-48B8-AA81-5C4806E08F6F.jpg)
where are the hoses for these? I know that both gold ports connect to a T and then go off somewhere, but where?
(http://i1021.photobucket.com/albums/af336/ragecage23/6D56CF8A-A42D-4157-BD03-172D0BF03F47.jpg)
are the grey plastic parts on backwards?
(http://i1021.photobucket.com/albums/af336/ragecage23/75131A1B-594D-410C-B3AD-AC32490DCE85.jpg)
is the clamp on the bottom on the wrong side?
(http://i1021.photobucket.com/albums/af336/ragecage23/306E667F-5403-4574-AE54-82A5706B0B96.jpg)
and does this look right so far?
(http://i1021.photobucket.com/albums/af336/ragecage23/5BCC4C3F-43A3-4E8D-82B8-6ADAB75D1127.jpg)
sorry for the large photos.
I'll be able to take more on Tuesday. This is how I got the carbs back from the shop and since I was smart enough not to take photos before I gave them in I'm not sure what's right or not. The manual I bought should be coming in on Friday.
the fuel line is in the right place, from the petcock to the carbs. though my neck hurts a little.. :cry:
but your carbs has a bunch of extra doo-daas on them.. and I don't really know what im looking at. lol
one thing I did notice, is the choke cable is on the front of the carbs??? wut when did that happen? :sad:
also those two extra brass parts at the bottom, are some sort of return lines.. I would guess.
also looks like your missing a lot of vacuum related hoses.. those two white funky plastic bits ontop, those normally have a rubber hose between them connecting them together.
-I would find what you don't/do need to actually just RUN the bike, and remove the rest of the crap if it was me...
Choke cable is still in the back I just have the carbs turned around. It is a California bike so I've heard there are extra hoses.
so I'm guessing this is the "vacuum (to left carb) nipple?
(http://i1021.photobucket.com/albums/af336/ragecage23/6714E224-AAEE-43C4-9557-30CEF280469F.jpg)
Is this is the "vent hose from upper T connection" nipple?
(http://i1021.photobucket.com/albums/af336/ragecage23/5736C108-8D1D-4BF6-8A62-E1AB006D7806.jpg)
So what's this nipple in the middle?
(http://i1021.photobucket.com/albums/af336/ragecage23/D84F96E4-4FA4-4668-A995-1ADD6F666BB0.jpg)
You can't plug the vent hole.
I've tried it on mine, and I believe my engine stalled. I think it's a vacuum hose.
Not good to keep it like that.
I have a small rubber tube connected to it, with a filter at the end.
The filter was completely rotten, and I replaced it with a household sponge (yellow part of a yellow and green sponge), and it works fine.
Also I have a calif model.
Mine looked pretty much the same, but they removed a lot of hoses, and EGR, as it's not a requirement in my state, and improves performance mildly.
I probably will have to increase the jet size, as raising the needle gives me very low MPGs (I might have raised it too high though).
So the upper T connection should be connected to a tube with the filter at the end? And I live in California so this is also a California model.
Upper T is vent hose that runs over to between the air filter and battery as shown in 3rd post pic above and it has open end and no filter. Lower T receives the fuel line from the frame petcock. Vacuum line to petcock goes to upper inside of left carb. My 97 and 02 GSs didn't have the rest of that EPA junk so I'm not familiar with it.
It looks like it shows the vacuum line from upper inside is an open end as well, or am I seeing that wrong?
This is normally plugged and is the port where you hook up a manometer for carb sync's. California Model...not sure what it's used for?
(Basically it's a primary vacuum port)
(http://i1021.photobucket.com/albums/af336/ragecage23/6714E224-AAEE-43C4-9557-30CEF280469F.jpg)
what city in California ?
Quote from: Suzuki Stevo on April 14, 2015, 08:00:22 PM
This is normally plugged and is the port where you hook up a manometer for carb sync's. California Model...not sure what it's used for?
(Basically it's a primary vacuum port)
(http://i1021.photobucket.com/albums/af336/ragecage23/6714E224-AAEE-43C4-9557-30CEF280469F.jpg)
+1 yes I hooked up manometer to this port as well , then got a longer plug from autozone to make it easy for the next time I sync the carbs .
A longer hose works too.
(http://home.comcast.net/~stykers/extend.jpg)
So it doesn't need to have a hose connected to it?
Quote from: ragecage23 on April 14, 2015, 08:32:51 PM
So it doesn't need to have a hose connected to it?
Not sure about the Cali model?? My '07 just had a plug there :dunno_black:
Quote from: Suzuki Stevo on April 14, 2015, 08:30:46 PM
A longer hose works too.
(http://home.comcast.net/~stykers/extend.jpg)
yes indeed a longer hose .......... mine came with a very small factory plug & hose clip .
mine had a factory Suzuki plug & hose clip , ( very small ) but yes has to be pluged .
Suzuki Stevo showing a longer hose on port to make carb syncing way easyier .
Okay, cool. Does anyone know about the middle T connection?
(http://i1021.photobucket.com/albums/af336/ragecage23/D84F96E4-4FA4-4668-A995-1ADD6F666BB0.jpg)
[/quote]
type in bike bandit , enter you bike 2009 gs500f streetbike , has online parts view of carbs
That middle T connection : the carb vent hose. GSJack got it earlier. It allows air to go into the carbs as gas is sucked out, so your carbs don't become a sealed vacuum.
Quote from: ragecage23 on April 14, 2015, 08:52:32 PM
Okay, cool. Does anyone know about the middle T connection?
It's a vent hose that goes over the top of the airbox and then vents to the ground IIRC.
It's the hose on the far right of the photo
(http://home.comcast.net/~stykers/venthose.jpg)
Sorry for the redundancy, but the top two T connections are just open end tubes that don't connect to anything?
Might help, looks like a "T" party to me. :icon_lol:
http://images.powersportsnetwork.com/fiche/images/SUZUKI/2009/Motorcycles/28479_GS500FHK7P03P28013.gif
The T bones connected to the brass thing. .. the brass things connected to the something.... the somethings connected to my wristwatch! Uh oh!
;)
I must be missing parts then.
Just an update. I've bought some of the parts I was missing and made the others. I should be able to fire it up this coming weekend by feeding fuel through the lines. Now I just need to get all the rust out of the tank.
So I've got all the hoses hooked up properly, freshly charged battery, turn the bike on and I see lights. Turn signals, headlight, taillight, it all works. I go to start it and nothing. Just sounds like sparks coming from this area.
(http://i1021.photobucket.com/albums/af336/ragecage23/EF3F46B7-70C9-411D-94CC-323AFD569FFB.jpg)
Any ideas?
Just getting the obvious out of the way first: clutch safety switch, kill switch, and side stand switch aren't the problems, correct?
I think that's the starter relay in the pic. Never heard of sparks coming from one, though. Is that fuse good? Check to see if there is any kind of corrosion near the wires on the relay.
Turns out the battery was bad. I got a new one and it turns over no problem. Just need to get the rust out of my tank and I'll be back on two wheels.
Alright time for an update. Rust is out of the tank and everything is hooked up properly. I noticed when I was draining the tank that there wasn't as free of a flow as there was draining the bad fuel. I didn't think anything of it because this was metal rescue and no fuel. So I tried to start it and it turns over sounds like it wants to start (this is with choke on completely and also note there is still very little metal rescue in the fuel tank.) I turn the idle screw about 10-15 time clockwise and it runs. It's at very high rpms, not sure how much because the Tach wasn't working at the time. So I turn it down a bit and it dies. Turn it back up and it sounds okay for the choke being on. I let it warm up for about a minute and take the choke off and it dies again. I continue to mess with the idle screw and finally get it to about right, it's very rough at idle, but if I turn it up anymore the rpms skyrocket. Now I have a hanging idle as well.
So my question/problem is: should the idle adjustment screw be that sensitive? And how do I fix the hanging idle?
sounds like carbs are still dirty , I took my carbs off and got them ultrasound cleaned , no more problems at all , problem when gas sits in carbs after only 3 weeks of non-use over here in los angeles .......... I tried sea-foam in gas tank first , did not work , still had hanging idle , anyways ultrasound cleaning of carbs works great ............... :thumb:
I've had the carbs rebuilt and this is the first time running gas through them since the rebuild.
Check the connections, tubes and settings again, make sure it's all correct again...... no matter that you did it before!.. something is setup wrong and you have an issue/s. ..
(No heat in the above!) just if it was all exact/correct you wouldn't be having issues hmm?
Check everything! Again! :)
Also .. and I think this is correct (maybe Buddha can correct?), when it all internals confirmed correct. .turn all the screws gently to fully closed... that way you know exactly where you starting from! ... the turn each out the (various) recommended amount of turns to the 'accepted' settings.... again you will know where they are! ... try the start and report. . Then 'we' have a new static baseline to adjust from.
Starting in the middle of somewhere and half a turn left or 9 turns right gives no solid info.
:thumb:
I've read somewhere on here about fuel and air mixture screws, should I leave those alone? And alright I'll triple check everything when I get back to my bike.
Sorry to bring this up again, but I just wanted to put a cap on this thread. Thank you all for your patience and helpful insight, I can officially say my bike is in working order again! It took many weeks, but it's done. I was finally able to ride today after 3 years of neglect :woohoo:
Thanks again for helping me out.
Awesome! Congratulations and happy/safe riding!
Thank you, and same to you!