I'm having a real hard time understanding how to adjust the valves on my bike. This will be my first valve adjustment on this bike (the bike has just over 24k miles on it) so I'm assuming it's beyond time for a valve adjustment. I've watched baltimoreGS's video on valve adjustment and I'm not understanding it much. Here's what I've gathered so far: there needs to be a measurement between the shim and something using the feeler gauges (I don't know what I'm sticking the gauge between) then I take that measurement and subtract it from the gap I want? And that will give me the size of the replacement shim I need?
I haven't done this before nor have I even looked underneath where the camshafts are. I want to have a better understanding of what needs to be done before I take everything apart and give it a go.
Youtube the procedure for a variety of bikes to get a better understanding.
If you don't know much about it, let it be done by a dealer for the first time.
If you have a small 50cc scooter or so, try it out on that instead; not to lose an expensive bike in case you do it wrong.
The engine needs to be rotated to a certain angle (usually indicated in the crankcase or on the flywheel), and one cylinder's valves need to be adjusted in that position. Then rotate it again, and adjust the other cylinder's valves.
Then manually turn the engine, to see if it turns over normally, and then start the bike.
That's the basic procedure (minus removing the valve cover and some body tupperware).
I know that starting off I need to start with the pick up mark matching on the side of the engine and the marks pointed towards each other on the cams to measure the two intake valves and the right exhaust valve then turn the engine 360° manually and check the last exhaust valve. I just don't know what to put the feeler guages between and how to know what size replacement shim I need.
More than likely you won't need replacement shims, unless the adjustment screw is all the way to the end, which is very unlikely, or the shims are totally worn.
the GS500 does not have valve adjustment screws. it uses replaceable shims.
rage, try this video to see if it helps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qgm4dwy0TJ4
under each of the cams and over each cylinder is a flat, circular object that looks a bit like a coin blank on top of a cylinder. That is the shim and it is resting on the bucket. The feeler gauge goes between the shim and the cam. See if there's someone around with experience that can guide you through it or let a mechanic take care of it this time, but ask if he'll show you what to look for while he has your cam cover off...or maybe he'll conveniently have another bike when you drop yours off with the cam cover off that he can show you.
Don't have the money for a mechanic so I'm on my own for this one. And thanks, I'll check out the video.
Manual has a table that shows what shim you need relative to the space you measure with a feeler gauge. Note that the spacing is rather small the standard ordinary feeler gauge is too sick to buy one of the slightly better ones easy enough to get but takes a little looking I forget the minimum thickness you want someone will chime in.
Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk
I'll look through my Haynes manual once I find it. Thanks for the video cWj, that helped out a lot.
Quote from: cWj on June 08, 2015, 11:23:59 PM
the GS500 does not have valve adjustment screws. it uses replaceable shims.
Interesting!
I'd have to honestly say that I haven't opened it up yet.
My only other problem is finding some replacement shims. I don't think I'll need a whole kit for this one job.
The basic principle of the valve adjustment is to ensure the valves close when they are supposed to be closed.
They should also be only just closed, by the least measurable amount. 1-3 thou - in fact 1.5 thou is the least measurable.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: MeeLee on June 09, 2015, 02:27:20 PM
Interesting!
I'd have to honestly say that I haven't opened it up yet.
Something to consider before responding.
Quote from: ragecage23 on June 09, 2015, 08:15:28 PM
My only other problem is finding some replacement shims. I don't think I'll need a whole kit for this one job.
You can try looking for a used one on theBay, use what you need, auction it back off (least downtime if you have to adjust).
Or find out what you need and check back here, theBay, or just get new ones from somewhere (if local dealer has the size you need, not so big a deal; otherwise you're waiting for shipping).
Or try trading shims with a mechanic....or somebody on the forum.
Either way, the annoyance is in not knowing if/what you need without getting under the valve cover.
I like the way you think. Once the rain stops I'll get to working on her.
If I can highlight any advice from the baltimoreGS video (I think he mentions this)... stuff a rag under the chain to fill the hole! I luckily never dropped anything down in there while working on mine, but you hear of horror stories on here of tools/hardware/shims disappearing into the void... magnet fishing in that space is no fun.
Also, check out gsJack's comments here and there about adjustment clearance recommendations and shim removal technique with a screwdriver if you don't have the tool. Follow the video in tandem with the manual step-by-step with the bike open in front of you and it should be pretty self-explanatory.
Just swapped out 3 shims today - RH intake and exhaust / LH intake were almost out of spec (< 0.038mm) so they have been loosened up to spec.
Local bike shop does a trade in deal $7.50 per shim and let you bring in your old ones.
BaltimoreGS's video is a great how to - just one little thing you learn is that the bucket has a little tiny slot where you can get a tiny flat head screwdriver in there to pop the shim up / catch it with a magnet. My buckets had the slot spun around under the cam, but when I depressed the bucket using the shim tool it turned the bucket around and I noticed the slot - waaaaaay easier to pop out the shim.
I know some people don't really like the tool - mine was an el cheapo flea bay number but it worked fine once you get to grips with not twisting it off the bucket.
And yes - a rag or two can save you much much much frustration...
Peace of mind knowing it is done, bike (2k7) has just gone 18,000 miles and the shims were only just out of spec.
Kiwi / Rage / whomever else: I always say to write down what size shims you have in the engine currently. That way when you do your next adjustment you can get the shims you "might" need before opening up the engine again.
2 recommendations of GREAT howtos. kerry ( admin here) had an awesome how to youtube of this beginning to end and adidasguy GOD rest his soul had one as well. think pats ( adidasguy) acct was under lajko1 if im not mistaken. these 2 vids were clear enough a drunk man could pull off a perfect valve adjustment. i kid you not.
wasnt able to find kerrys valve adjustment vid. however click on kerry then scroll down and click on kerrys gs500 page. some good material there. when i hear from him later ill find out if the valve adjustment video is still up. come think of it ill pm him. should have an answer before long. at worst maybe a day or 2 id say.
Thanks again, everyone for all your help. I was able to change out all the shims.
heard back from kerry :) reason i wasnt able to locate vid on ytis because this video hailed from the days of google vids. anyhoo he was able to locate a rough edit from i guess the archival disk. uploaded to his own site/space:
if i watch this it WILL blow my cap. if he allows me, if i make it to church next sunday, ill copy it to office computer perhaps youtubed. idk will see. will at least copy it to a thumb drive to keep @ home:
http://bbburma.net/Videos/
GS500_ValveAdjustment.wmv (http://bbburma.net/Videos/%3Cbr%20/%3EGS500_ValveAdjustment.wmv) btw it IS a wmv, but so are many of my yt vids
i hope this helps :)
baah server posting a 500 error, should be working before long id say. this was a VERY recent upload
yam, I already posted the link to Kerry's vid on YT
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qgm4dwy0TJ4
unless there's a different one.