I know I know, I should do it myself.. but unfortunately, I just don't have the time.. Is there anyone here who would want to rejet my carbs for me? Obviously I would PAY you to do it.. I can get them out of my bike, UPS them to you, and pay for parts + your time + return shipping..
Any takers?
They should be pretty clean and in good condition, I cleaned them last year.. but my wife is going to start riding the bike this summer and I want it to be a little easier to start and less fiddling with the choke and idle controls.
Probably a lot easier and better to take the whole bike to a bike shop and have the carbs jetted, idle mixture set, and balanced on the bike. Save the UPS cost.
Some of this stuff cannot be done on the carbs separate from the running engine.
If you want to have it done right, take it to a place that will rejet it for you on a dyno. They basically set it up so you're bike is run on a dyno without the tank and with the carbs opened up. This way they can change the jets on the fly to optimize the selection for your particular bike and setup (mods, exhaust ...)
I've heard of place in LA (around Burbank?) that will do this for about 80 or 90 bucks I think.
You should look into that. The rejetting that most people do is more "guess and check" style.
ASLAM.
OK fine this is a personal challenge now. I can do it off the bike and not only that, you install it and the only thing you have to fiddle with is air screw. A Dyno is useless, a Dyno+O2 sensor might work, but so will an O2 sensor and riding it. And I have set so many bikes the same way after 1000 different tries ... I am willing to bet I can do it without a bike and have it near perfect. Fine say how is $10, and I'll need money for jets and shipping. So send it over.
Address is 9227 swallow tail lane, Charlotte NC 28269. Bike shops are morons, I'd do it free if it means someone doesn't have to take it to a shop.
Cool.
Srinath.
Besides, once you take the carbs off the bike, you're only 8 screws away from the jets.
The vacuum balance is a must, after all the other work has been done, to ensure a properly running bike. And, it is best done on the bike the carbs belong to. Yep, take it to a shop. Maybe a performance shop.
Quote from: scratchThe vacuum balance is a must, after all the other work has been done, to ensure a properly running bike. And, it is best done on the bike the carbs belong to. Yep, take it to a shop. Maybe a performance shop.
Nope... I ahve eyeball synched it... check with Gino for the results. Eyeball synch with carbs off works fantastic. Yes but for that method to work the sun needs to show once in a while, and god knows that's not happened around here in a few years.
Cool.
Srinath.
Are you referring to a stock bike or what? Each bike is going to run different. Even ones that are still completely stock. IMO, you're better off going to the dyno in that situation because they'll figure out exactly which jets will give you the best performance.
Srinath you're saying that whichever jets you install will maximize the performance for his bike? To be sure you'd have to have him put the carbs back on, ride around, send them back, rejet, and so on until you find the best combination.
I'm very skeptical of what you're saying.
ASLAM.
Oh, yes, definitely static synchronize the carbs before putting them on the bike, it'll make starting the bike much easier, and the vacuum synch wont take as long.
Quote from: seshadri_srinathOK fine this is a personal challenge now. I can do it off the bike and not only that, you install it and the only thing you have to fiddle with is air screw. A Dyno is useless, a Dyno+O2 sensor might work, but so will an O2 sensor and riding it. And I have set so many bikes the same way after 1000 different tries ... I am willing to bet I can do it without a bike and have it near perfect. Fine say how is $10, and I'll need money for jets and shipping. So send it over.
Address is 9227 swallow tail lane, Charlotte NC 28269. Bike shops are morons, I'd do it free if it means someone doesn't have to take it to a shop.
Cool.
Srinath.
I'm gonna have to go with srinath on this one. Re-jetting the GS500 should not be like re-inventing the wheel. Although I love dynos, and have access to one daily, the bike has been around for a looooong time, and its been documented what works and what doesn't.
As far as the bike shop comment, I think srinath meant dealerships are morons. ;)
Geez! I really created a firestorm here didn't I! Heh.. Keep in mind guys, this is a 92, with about 6000 miles, that I plan to have my wife ride probably a dozen times a year.. its not like I need the thing putting out peak HP!
BTW, not sure if this makes a difference, but I did have the carb's sync'd last summer..
Srinath.. I will let you know shortly.. JeffD also offered to help and I don't want to step on any ones toes! So let me check with Jeff first to see if he wants to do it, if not, I will definitely send them your way.
BTW, how much should the parts run?
All this talk about jetting makes me want to do it to mine. I have a couple of rough spots in the throtte on my bike. I do know that my needles have been shimmed but no jetting has been done. I have a cobra pipe as a modification but nothing else. I thought about getting a K&N(no pods), and 127.5 and 40 mains. I am just scared as hell to start tearing into the carbs. I am by my own admission, not much of a mechanic. Got cold weather here now and it drives me to want to spend the time making the modifications. I just want the bike to have a little more power, lessen the warm up time and so on. I just want to make sure that I get the combination right.
The jets are fixed, and a jet change is a huge step. The mains and pilots you miss it by 1 on the richer side and you will feel it, the float level is also rather definitive and the washers also. Hence the 4 parameters are nearly fixed. I will therefore bet the internal parameters of all bikes should be the same if using the same externals (filter pipe etc). The air screw and the idle screw give you enough of a adjustment to get it right no matter what. The margin from ideal to rich is rather wide, and I am sure it will be between the 2. Think about it... Its like telling someone to use 150/40/1 washer and 3 turns on air screw and float level at the gasket level and then they do it and it just needs some minor external tweaking.
Cool.
Srinath.