After a successful valve clearance check last week (thanks everyone), my next job is to replace the bearings in my rear wheel.
I've bought the bearings and they've been sitting in my freezer the last month.
I hope that's okay first of all.
I also got a bearing removal kit (http://i.imgur.com/JRw78fq.jpg)to make it easy.
I read instructions to use a large socket to drive the new ones in and be careful only to apply force to the outer race.
The Haynes manual says to use a bearing driver.
I went shopping for large sockets and they are fairly expensive - over €20 so I looked up bearing drivers on ebay.
You can get a whole set for under €20.
However, I'm not sure if any of these will work on the bearings used in the rear wheel and am looking for your advice.
Some are just flat bottomed and I'm worried these will hit the inner race too. Is that a concern?
Others don't look like that are designed to fit into the bearings needed for the rear wheel.
What so you think of these sets? You think any would work?
(http://i.imgur.com/jCnfYJJ.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/ha5UgR1.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Tmoe2jf.jpg)
These "motorcycle ones" look like they would work but are ~€60.
Don't want to spend that much.
(http://i.imgur.com/6QhdVCn.jpg)
Flat bottomed are fine. The pressure from the hammer blows will be absorbed by the outer race as the inner has a little bit of give. You might need a driver to get the bearing OUT. See the motion pro bearing removers. Although there are other cheaper options.
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The bearing is best removed with a drift punch.
I've installed 100's of bearings. My favorite tool to install is the outer race welded to a plate with a rod of about the size of the axle welded to the plate. Its almost like you can drop it in and hammer. Then tap that rod and out the tool comes leaving the bearing seated in the wheel.
Hold on to the old bearing and make it.
Cool.
Buddha.
I might pick up the flat ones in picture 3 then and hope they fit.
I have a removal tool, linked above.
Buddha, I thought about the tool you are describing. However I have no welding skills or means and I was thinking, wouldn't the tool be a tight fit too.
Do you scrape a little off the circumference?
The two rear wheel bearings are 6303 2RS and are 47mm O/D
The cush drive bearing is a 6305 2RS and is 62mm O/D
Forget the first kit, that is for knocking bearings onto journals, not into housings. Any of the others will do assuming the impact rings cover the correct sizes.
Thanks Sledge, this one says it has discs to fit 47mm and 62mm so I think I'll get that.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BEARING-RACE-SEAL-DRIVER-SET-18pc-Discs-Fit-Common-Bearings-Universal-35-85mm-/252039363607
They describe it as a:
BEARING RACE SEAL DRIVER SET
HELPS REDUCE DAMAGE TO BOTH THE RACE AND AXLE HOUSING
1 x steel handle 140mm long
1 x steel round disc 90mm dia
3 x cups 60,70,90mm dia
13 discs 35,37,40,42,47,50,52,60,62,68,75,82,85mm dia
Set includes six discs to fit common bearing sizes.
Sizes: 1.565, 1.75, 1.965, 2.325, 2.47 & 2.555"
You think it will work?
yes
Toner, don't get too worked up about hitting the inner when you drive the old bearings out. Why? well you're going to replace them with new ones anyway, so if you damage the old ones who GAF? I always warm the hub before drifting the oldies out.
Getting the new ones in however is completely different. Warm the hub (heatgun) and cool the new bearings for a few hours in the fridge and virtually just drop 'em in.
Lots of good advice previously in this thread, but bear in mind that many blokes like me have never owned a bearing driver, let alone a spoofy set like the pics! A few sockets, a few old bearing outers, a few well chosen drifts and bits of tube could serve you perfectly well for half a century or so!!!
I used a big old craftsman screwdriver to drive the wheel bearings out on my 02 GS. First a pair of rear ones when a shop lost spacer 9 when changing and balancing a new rear tire and later a pair of front ones when they wore and became loose enough to delay brake action in the wet.
Never heated or cooled anything just drove them out and drove the new ones in with a socket that fit the outer race close enough. You can drive them most of the way in using the old bearing.
Learned to change wheel bearings in an auto garage starting back in 1948. Was surprised when I had to change all the wheel bearing on my 02 GS, never changed any on my previous 4 Hondas and my 97 GS.
hey guys, looking to get a drift as a back-up in case the tool I bought to get the bearings out isn't suitable.
Is this the kind of drift I should be getting:
It's listed as a 6.3/8" long x 13/8" brass drift punch ex army
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-3-8-long-x-13-8-brass-drift-punch-ex-army-/151802115219?hash=item23581c7493
(http://i.imgur.com/g1aOqTh.jpg)
or can someone give examples of some other drift that would work?
Doe they need to be over a certain length?
Brass drifts are great, but maybe that one is a little short (eg think, your fist width to hold it, plus depth of bearing housing?)
Be handy if you could find a local non-ferrous metals supplier and pick up a few different sized off-cuts.
alright guys, attempted this job today and disappointingly was not able to complete it.
I bought this tool to remove the bearings.
It's a called a Blind Hole Bearing Puller. However mine was not marked "Harbor Freight" though it looks identical.
You can see how it is supposed to work in the video.
However when I tried it, the tines just bent inwards when I expanded them against the bearing and when I banged up the hammer the attachment came out of the bearing.
Don't think I was using it incorrectly, but maybe I was. Anyway it's junk now or at least the attachment size I need is.
Gonna try the old fashioned way. So I need a drift. I see how they are supposed to work now.
As the spacer between the bearings is a little wider than the bearing, you get a tiny margin of the bearing's inner race surface to tap on when you insert a drift down into the spacer.
First bearing is the tricky one to get out, second one should be easy.
I guess the drift needs to be 3/8 inch wide as the axle is 1/2 inch wide and it doesn't look a drift that size would do the job.
To that end, I'm looking at this 11 inch long, 3/8 inch wide aluminium drift.
(http://i.imgur.com/UTlv2Se.jpg)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AIRCRAFT-TOOLS-ALUMINIUM-KNOCKOUT-PUNCH-3-8-DRIFT-MECHANICS-SHEETMETAL-WORKERS-/161400827160
What do you think. Will aluminium be hard enough? They recommend brass in the book but I suppose that's only if you want to keep the bearings I guess as it will be soft on them.
Will aluminium be too soft? I'd get a steel one if I saw one.
Also I was going to try a long flat screwdriver today but I didn't want to make a mess of it and not be able to ride this week.
Quote from: Toner on September 06, 2015, 08:10:16 AM
I might pick up the flat ones in picture 3 then and hope they fit.
I have a removal tool, linked above.
Buddha, I thought about the tool you are describing. However I have no welding skills or means and I was thinking, wouldn't the tool be a tight fit too.
Do you scrape a little off the circumference?
You could grind the outer wall a bit, best done when the old bearing is still intact, you stick the axle bolt back in it and hold the edge to a grinder and the bearing will spin up and grind itself nicely. However, if you have a striking plate and centering rod welded to it, you can just turn it over and hit that and get it out.
Cool.
Buddha.
hey Buddha, will an aluminium drift punch be hard enough to knock the bearings out? I'm looking at a 3/8 inch diameter and 11 inches long linked in the post above your last one.
I did my front bearings last week and i dont think aluminum will be hard enough. I used an old iron bar i had lying in my shed. It was about 2 foot long and about 10mm thick. It was a PIA but i got them out after about 20 minutes. Then i tapped the new ones in with an 8mm flat ended punch. I just kept tapping around the outer bearing until i they were home.Thats how ive always done them and ive had no problems.
20 mins sounds like it would be a frustrating hour in my motorcycle fixing time.
Saw this video of a guy using a rawl bolt. Might be worth trying:
This is what I used. Minimum fuss. Just watch our because if the locking part does fly out - and it will slide out on occasion- makes sure its aimed at a wall.
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0269/
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Quote from: Toner on September 20, 2015, 09:58:53 AM
hey Buddha, will an aluminium drift punch be hard enough to knock the bearings out? I'm looking at a 3/8 inch diameter and 11 inches long linked in the post above your last one.
Are you freaking kidding me. Use a real tool. And a real hammer too, not one of em rubber things you get @ harbor freight ... don't even freaking ask how I know.
Cool.
Buddha.