Hey, guys. So I just bought a 2002 GS500E with 47k miles for $1k. Initially the speedo wasn't working but all I had to do was screw the cable back in! I'm planning on doing some (very minor) work on it this weekend and was hoping you guys could help out on where to find these bolts, or just give me sizes that I could pick up at a local hardware store? Perhaps there's a parts list resource somewhere I don't know of yet. Here's a pic of the bike:
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/18/ead6e710cfc63778bd3fe5fe8437861b.jpg)
The speed/tach assembly is missing the bolts that hold them on and I'd just like to know where to find replacements:
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/18/8e8f158a5dca6c7022a6af9e8873e028.jpg)
And this brake cable coming down the right fork is missing the screw that keeps it from dangling:
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/18/7405d69b2d10ab08bb4e618b1afb5b2e.jpg)
Thanks for the help guys!
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Your best bet will be to see what's available at the store and try to fit them. They will be metric, but for the dash, you'll need to get the nut anyway, so grab whatever will fit. You'll want a Carriage Bolt for the dash, but if you can't find one that fits right, you can easily get by with an nut and bolt. The parts fiche lists it as a 6x30, so I would assume that it came with a M6 bolt that is 30mm long. A 1/4" carriage bolt might fit well. I'd suggest getting stainless bolts and lock nuts. You don't want to tighten it down too much since it's made to vibrate a little, and with a normal nut, it'll just rattle itself loose. I believe the original nut is a cap nut, so you could only tighten it a certain amount, allowing it to vibrate on the rubber.
Ideally, you want a flange bolt for the Hose clamp bracket. For the hose clamp bolt, I would pull off another bolt from somewhere else and test fit it (if you follow the brake line up, there's another hose clamp that uses the same bolt). Take that bolt into the store to compare.
Here's the parts fiche for them:
Carriage Bolt:
#15 09107-06003 (I think)
http://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3f32ff8700230d8b4c048/speedometer-tachometer
Hose clamp bolt:
#17 01550-0612A
http://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3f335f8700230d8b4c063/front-master-cylinder
Great looking bike, btw! What's that wire coming out of the frame in the front? Rear tire looks a tiny bit low too. Good luck!
Thanks a bunch, EdChen! Not sure what that wire is... Electrical stuff is a mystery and I'm not sure of all the technical terms but it looks like it connects to the ignition or speedo/tach... something up there.
Side question for you or anyone else: I'm having trouble getting into neutral when I'm sitting at a light. In fact, it doesn't want me to shift into 2nd at all. Is this normal or a red flag?
Also, the stock set of grips suck... anyone got a good replacement?
Thanks.
Does it help if you rock the bike a little bit forwards and backwards? If so, it's a fairly common quirk for our bike (and I think other bikes).
If you're at a complete standstill and it won't go in, just roll the bike forwards a little bit, it should fall in place.
Got it. Thanks again!
So after riding this thing for a few days in a row, I've encountered a more disconcerting problem;
After about 10-15 minutes of riding, the bike experiences a loss of power - unresponsive throttle, doesn't really want to go above 5-6000 rpm, then when I slow down to 1st gear speeds, it stalls, I start it back up, and the throttle/engine is still only partially responsive. But once I wait for 5-10 minutes, start it back up, it's back to normal again.
Here's a video of what's going on:
https://youtu.be/GpmO9C63kRY
It is pretty warm here in California this weekend (mid 90s)... Maybe that has something to do with it? Fuel/air mix too rich? Need new air filter?
I'm not super mechanically inclined, and like I said this is my first bike. Any pointers in the right direction help. I'm changing the oil and putting new plugs in and putting in a new battery soon. Should I add another procedure to the list?
Thanks.
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Do you know when the valves were done last?
I don't... How big of a procedure is that? Could I do it on my own?
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Absolutely. It's pretty intimidating the first time, so read as much as you can about the procedure and take your time to do it. You'll need a couple special tools though - the bucket tool and a set of feeler gauges.
You'd be amazed at what valves can affect when they are out of spec.
Found the video tutorial. It does look a little intimidating, but not impossible. Is there anything else that could be causing the problem? Anything else I should check out while I'm checking the valves? I wouldn't be surprised if they've never been done in the 47k miles that are on the bike. The previous owner didn't seem to be interested in maintenance... Just riding.
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After reading that post again, it could be fuel starvation as well. Usually a semi clogged tank vent or carb vent. Do you have an external fuel filter? That can cause a fuel starvation problem as well.
And that "10-15 minutes of riding"..... is that just putting around, sustained higher revs, etc?
Not sure about the fuel filter. I can look at it tomorrow.
I might be short shifting as I don't really get to the 8,9,10k rpm range often. I went from 3-4 stops within a mile to 55mph for a good 3-4 miles, then came to a stop and it had that problem.
Sorry if it seems I need some hand-holding... just trying to get a feel for the troubleshooting sequence so I can eventually do this on my own.
Stop to stop riding usually doesn't show fuel starvation problems, but that 55mph run could do it.
Check out for the clogs mentioned earlier, but some valve maintenance on a new (to you) bike is always a good idea.
I'd definitely do the valves, but to help narrow things down, you can try switching to PRIme on the petcock and/or open the fuel tank when it stalls and see if it works better/starts back up quickly.
Alright, thanks a bunch guys. I'll try to tear the bike apart (gently) and get back to you after checking the valves and any clogs. Cheers for the pointers!
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Alright, I've measured the current clearances. Unfortunately my feeler gauges don't go to the thousandths but here's what fit:
Left exhaust .13mm
Right exhaust .07mm
Left intake .06mm
Right intake .09mm
It seems could go a size up on shims for the left exhaust and right intake, and leave the others as is??
Anyways, I haven't gotten to actually removing the shims yet as it is getting dark soon. Is the shim removal tool included in the Suzuki toolkit? I have one from the kit that looks similar but not quite the same. If it's not this one, would a nearby Suzuki dealer have one?
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/20/2cfceed2c3a8a19f30655a5fa4105a8c.jpg)
Also, this gasket is basically just leather: going to replace that while this project is going on:
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/20/6f1f4d782b21e480d628f34304671b0c.jpg)
Ps: no in-line fuel filter that I've seen. I was reading an interesting thread here from a guy with a similar issue:
http://www.motorcycle.com/forum/suzuki/19022-2002-suzuki-gs500e-problem-after-oil-change-2.html
Does the 2002 GS have a tank vent hose or is the vent a part of the gas cap? If it's part of the gas cap, how do I clean that vent? The only lines that came off my tank were the reserve an PRI lines. I guess I could blast those with air to make sure there's no gunk in them.
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Let's see....: don't worry about that gasket. It isn't in a high pressure / oil soaked area of the engine. You could actually just get some universal gasket sheets (the gray one from Autozone) and make a new one if you wanted to.
While you don't actually need the proper shim tool (iit's possible to use a flat head screwdriver on the valve bucket and camshaft journal), the proper tool does make the job easier. And any decent cycle shop will have one.... but maybe not for sale. Worth calling around for IMO.
I would try the next size down shims in the right exhaust & left intake like you said, and double check the clearances after that. I'd be tempted to try the next size up on the left exhaust as well.... .13mm seems pretty loose.
Also, if you take out the current shims and measure/read off the thicknesses, there's a chance you can move them around and get a good fit.
BTW, the tool you took a picture of is to adjust the rear shock. The vent is through the gas cap, here's a FAQ (although it might be different for your year). http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=41061.0
You guys have been a great help in establishing my troubleshooting check list. Thank you very much.
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Those shims look good to go for me, I set exhaust valves at .003-.005" (.08-.13 mm) now for long valve life. Never had to change an intake valve shim in 180k GS miles.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/GSvalvelogs_zpscvcef42y.jpg
Wait... Now I'm confused... Aren't the clearances for all the valves supposed to be set between .03mm and .08mm???
Also, does anyone have a video tutorial of the screwdriver removal method for the shims? I really don't want to have to buy more tools...
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I can't speak to GSJack's specs, but i just did my shims this weekend. I used a medium crow bar and inserted it between the cam lobe and shim, from the inside angle. (I needed it for the leverage, my buckets were really hard to depress.) When you get it depressed, insert a large flat head screw driver, w/the head sideways, between the cam lobe and the bucket (the outer rim.) That will keep it depressed, use tweezers and a magnet to fish out the shim. And put a rag in the center to keep shims from falling into the crankcase.
Good luck!
I believe you're correct on the specified tolerances, but gsJack's ridden many miles and been through more GS500s than most, and in his experience, setting the exhaust valves on the loose end (even looser than spec) has worked well. If I recall correctly, on his early GS, he put them right to spec each adjustment and that ended in excessive wear, to the point that at the end of that engine's life, there weren't shims thin enough to set the clearance properly.
I can attest that my valve shim combination allowed me to put the space at either .06mm or .11mm and I went with 0.11mm, and after 5k miles, I went back in and all the clearances were just about exactly the same as it was. Bike runs great.
Here's the screw driver gsJack uses:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=35746.0
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/ValveShimTools.jpg)
Alright, thanks again gentlemen. I think I'm just gonna purchase the actual shim removal tool from somewhere just for my peace of mind that I'm doing things right.
At the same time, while I'm at it... I might as well purchase a repair manual. Is there a big difference between the clymer and the Haynes?
Thanks
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By experience members here have found that running the exhaust side somewhat looser (0.08-0.13mm) extends the time between shim swaps with no noticeable impact to performance. I second the opinion that your clearances are good, no need to swap them out at this time.
If you do ever need to do a swap, I recommend buying the tool. I tried with a screwdriver, and while some have been successful, I found it to be too cumbersome for me.
+1 for the shim tool.
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(a little late to the party but...) Just wanted to say welcome to the site and congrats on the bike!! Another informative thread that was fun to read through... :D
Alright, guys, I thought I had a possible breakthrough and that one of the previous owners switched the fuel lines up. I'm really confused now... I was hoping to clean these lines out with an air hose but I want to make sure I connect everything CORRECTLY.
BaltimoreGS' video on valve clearance check and adjustment shows removal of the two fuel lines connecting the gas tank petcock to the frame-mounted petcock as being connected to the PRI and RES positions. Here's the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWrlaIafIAU&feature=youtu.be&safe=active
skip to 2:00 in to see what I'm talking about.
But this page on the hose routing says that the lines connecting the gas tank petcock connects to the Main (on) and Reserve positions on the frame-mounted petcock. Here's the page http://www.gstwin.com/fuel_hose_routing.htm
I've only disconnected the two fuel lines that attached to the gas tank petcock. The Reserve was definitely one of the ones disconnected, but the other one, I'm not so sure; that one non-reserve line was disconnected from what looked like the PRI plug-in on the frame-mounted petcock. The lines that were left after removing the tank were attached (on the FRAME-mounted petcock) from what looks like the on position to the lower T connection between the carbs, and the vacuum hose going to the RIGHT carb (this is different from the fuel hose routing page where it says the vacuum hose connects to the LEFT carb).
I have a suspicion I'm over thinking this and should just attach everything back to where it came from, but if these lines were mixed up, could one experience the fuel starvation problems I was having? I'll post a picture of the frame-mounted petcock in a minute.
Lines left after removing fuel tank:
(http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y303/boardum/8F5AE5F9-9149-4C74-8C87-1DD2D953E8A4.jpg) (http://s1024.photobucket.com/user/boardum/media/8F5AE5F9-9149-4C74-8C87-1DD2D953E8A4.jpg.html)
(http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y303/boardum/C761F389-88BB-49CD-8D8F-C8235BD33C9E.jpg) (http://s1024.photobucket.com/user/boardum/media/C761F389-88BB-49CD-8D8F-C8235BD33C9E.jpg.html)
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I'm not sure I totally understand the issue, but basically, the gas tank has 2 hoses, the main fuel outlet, and the reserve fuel outlet (only difference is that the reserve nipple draws the fuel at a lower point in the tank).
From there, they go to the frame petcock. The frame petcock has 2 fuel inlets, the main fuel connection, and the reserve connection. It has one outlet that goes to the carbs. When knob is set to ON, the fuel comes from the main connection to the tank, then gets stopped by the vacuum operated valve. When it's set to RES, the fuel comes from the reserve line, then gets stopped by the vacuum operated valve. When it's set to PRI, the fuel flows freely from the RES outlet straight through the frame petcock.
This link might describe it better/differently: http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Upgrades.Petcock
Routing Info here:
http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Main.HoseRouting
The hose routing, for the most part, shouldn't affect the running of the engine and the operation of the frame petcock. As long as the frame petcock fuel outlet is connected to the carbs, and the tank is connected to the two inlets (can be switched), it should be ok. Even if it was switched around, switching to PRI and/or opening the fuel tank cap would still work to help diagnose the problem.
got it. long story short, im just an idiot. still learning. thanks.
Please delete
Ok guys, got everything put back together, new battery filled and charged and installed works great. Still having the same fuel issue I was having before. I filled the gas tank, went for a run and 5 miles in have the same problem at the same exact spot after a 50-55mph run for maybe a mile or two mostly downhill. I switched the Petcock over to prime and it's still happening. The bike idles completely fine (although a bit low at 1,000rpms). While its idling I can throttle the engine up very responsively once or twice, but the third time it isn't as responsive, so it struggles and dies.
Is it time to take out the carbs and clean and rejet?
Maybe put seafoam in first? There is an aftermarket K&N air filter in there and I have no way of knowing whether or not the previous owners rejected afterwards
Did you try opening the gas tank cap when it happened to see if it fixed the problem?
If that didn't work I would clean out or replace (with a manual non vacuum) the frame petcock. The site has a "how to" somewhere on how to clean out the petcock, if you don't want to swap it with a manual one.
It shouldn't be the carbs, it really sounds like fuel starvation.
I did try opening the tank, it didn't seem to do anything and I didn't hear any air rush into it when I opened.
So after switching to prime and making sure the tank isn't a vacuum, you're saying the next step should be to clean the frame Petcock, instead of the carbs? I guess that makes sense since it's the first place after the tank that stuff could get clogged up...
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You could bypass all that stuff and just see how well the fuel flows. Maybe pull the fuel line from the carb and see how well it flows into a bucket?
Switching to the manual non vacuum Petcock might be best.... Anyone know of a good replacement one for under $50?
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EdChen, good call, thanks. I tried that and fuel flowed freely when the Petcock was set to the prime position, but trickled to almost a complete stop when on main or reserve positions... So what does that tell me exactly?
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That's tells you that at least the prime pathway is clear. The engine has to be running for on/res to work. Do all you future tests/riding in prime. Then if we can fix the bike in prime, and it starts happening in on/res you had 2 problems. But DON'T leave the bike in prime between rides!!!
If you still want to upgrade a honda cr250f (i think that's it) fit's well with just a little bit of quick dremel work.
I still think the problem is that your fuel bowls aren't filling quick enough. We just need to figure out why. To test this you could get a short piece of clear hose, run the bike until it stops working right, and quickly check both fuel bowl float heights. If one or both are way low and slowly fill up, you know there is a clog somewhere.
Wait a sec... I think I remember reading about someone who had a coil go out once. It would work when cold, but as it warmed up something stopped working right. :dunno_black:
http://www.gstwin.com/float_height_check.htm
You're talking about this test, right?
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yep. try that before and after the bike starts having problems and see if the levels differ.
So theoretically if it isn't the float height, what else could it be?? If the float height is inadequate I'm going to end up taking the carburetor apart anyway right? While I'm there I might as well check everything else (jets etc).
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Could be a clogged carb breather tube too.
In regards to the coil dropping out: that has happened to me, but on much older bikes (1968 Honda, 1980 & 1983 Suzuki). Once the coil gets hot it would drop spark until it cooled down - anywhere from 15 to 30 minutes later. Didn't matter how fast the bike was going either. A new coil fixed that along with some high rpm missing as well.
That's interesting about the coil... This bike does have 47k miles on it... I might start it up and just keep it running in the driveway for a bit, rev it up a couple times to see how long it would take to recreate the problem. Is there any way of confirming if it's the coil other than replacing it?
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Checking the impedance with a multimeter. The specs are in the service manual.
I'm not saying let the bike idle in your driveway to test the coil..... but if you do, make sure there's a fan blowing on the engine.
Alright, so I adjusted the idle the other day (when I posted last) and as I said filled the tank up. I put premium gas in. Set the idle to about 1300 and didn't touch it for my short ride, and shut the bike off. Start the bike up today, it's idling in the normal range, but after I throttle up to 5-6k Rpm about 4-5 times the idle was at 3,000rpms and wouldn't go back to the original after waiting or throttling back up. So j reset the idle and it seemed to hold after that.
Would that be indicative of dirty carbs possibly?
Maybe the fresh premium gas is just cleaning them out? Really hoping thats the case here...
Still haven't tested the coil or float bowl levels yet.
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The bike has to be completely up to operating temps before adjusting the idle speed. I'm guessing it was still a little cool when you adjusted it, which would cause it to idle too high once it gets to temp.
It sounds to me like your choke is on... ?
As funny as that may sound, I stopped by the side of the road last summer for a young guy on an old gixxer.
He said he bought it from his friend and it overheats. He could ride it about 10 minutes but then it would die, and he'd have to wait by the side of the road until it cooled down.
And yeah, his choke lever was all the way back. He didn't know what it was, or even that it was a movable lever.
Choke lever off, bike started right up and we both rode away.
Choke all the way off, haven't had to mess with it at all since I got the bike.
The issue consistently happens after riding 5-6 miles exactly. On my ride today, I could tell by the engine sounds that it was about to start having the same issue, so I pulled over and watched the engine drop to idle speed, then below idle, then die. Then it wouldn't start, whereas it has before. I tried to roll-start it down a hill, but it only started briefly, then sputtered and died.
Well, I checked the float height in the carbs both before taking it out for the 5-mile ride, and after it started to have the problem again. Looks to be good... just about at where the gasket is.
Really hoping it's the coil now...
Edit: how slow is "slow" for filling the tube for the float test???
Repeat of my other post - sorry about that. Stupid browser/ISP.
The Suzuki standard for valve clearance is .03mm to .08mm. Some riders like to set their exhaust valves higher than that to maximise exhaust valve cooling. I do not, but I can understand the logic for that one. The choice is yours.
As for the special tool recommended, what it effectively does is to compress the valve spring by pressing down on the bucket. This in turn increased the gap between the cam and the shim, which means it can be removed. I find this is a tricky enough operation using the tool: it takes me multiple attempts to get the bucket caught and locked down. The tool costs under $20, and from both a mental health perspective and also time saved is well worth the investment. The only other technique that I have seen is to remove the camshaft supports and get the shims out that way. Seems a lot of work to me.
Good luck.
It should fill immediately. If you have to wait, there's your problem. Another way to confirm this is to replace the fuel hose from the frame petcock to the carbs with a clear hose (make sure it's fuel rated, 1/4'' or 7mm). If, after 5 miles, you have to pull over and watch your fuel fill the line back up, there's your problem.
Alright. This problem has reached the point of truly pissing me off. I bought I multimeter (overpriced IMO) and tested the coils. They seem to be good for the primary at about 5.5-6.0 on the 200ohm setting. The secondary (coil to spark plug wire end) only momentarily displays on my multimeter and then dies. I was seeing ranges anywhere from 12-18 (yes, on the 20k setting) on both sides, but as I said, only momentarily. Is the multimeter a piece of $#*! ???
Or is it the spark plug wires...
Testing was done without running the bike at all that day.
I'm this close to taking this thing to a mechanic this weekend...
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I'll redo the float test this weekend and see how fast it fills, but it might have taken a sec...
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Alright, so I redid the float height check and it did take fuel trickling in to get the level right at the gasket of the carb. I might try that trick running the clear line to the carburetor. I called around to some local shops and apparently due to environmental laws in ca, clear fuel rated hose is hard to come by. One guy said I'd be able to get away with a clear non fuel rated line for a short ride if I put the original line back immediately. So I'll try that out tomorrow.
At this point I'm just documenting this here for myself or anyone using Google. Chime ins are always welcome from those experienced of course.
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The cheap clear line will work fine. My bike had that on it for years before I swapped out the lines earlier this year. It might harden and crack over time though.
I too have cheap clear lines... got them in the small engines section at Auto Zone or Advance. I hear what you're sayin' though about perhaps being hard to find in CA.... perhaps online?
Also yes they do tend to get a bit hard over time but I don't mind replacing them.
Wishing you luck !!
They are supposed to be replaced every 4 years.
So it sounds like the problem is definitely fuel starvation because the bowls aren't filling fast enough. Both bowls???
Were you using prime? That eliminates any possibility of a vacuum issue not opening the frame petcock all the way.
You may want to look on ebay (or some such place): you can normally find clear fuel hose sold by the foot. Go ahead and pick some up and replace all the fuel line. It will help with this problem, and may be of help to you in the future.
I used the clear fuel line connecting the frame Petcock to carbs (frame Petcock switched to prime) and it remained full even once the problem started.
Unless I'm wrong, this means the problem is with the carburetors themselves and not with anything in the fuel process before that. If this is true, I'd honestly feel way more comfortable with a mechanic doing the cleaning/rebuild. I might even consider installing a fuel filter to prevent the carbs from getting gunked up again.
The time it takes the problem to occur seems to be reducing as today it took just under 3 miles for it to act up.
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Additional development:
Took the bike for another ride after it had cooled down for about an hour and a half. After 2.5 miles, the bike started to do it again. This time I felt it - mid throttle after shifting to 3rd gear, my body lurched forward a little as the engine lost responsiveness. I pull over, bike dies, start it again, and decide to pull the spark plug wires. First the left, no change to the engine. Put the left back on. No change. Pull the right. Engine dies completely. I repeated this test twice to be sure. The engine was only working on the right cylinder.
Any thoughts on this? I realize the problem could still be fuel related, but I'm kind of hoping that this means the left coil is bad. I'll pop it off and look at the plug wire next time to see if it's sparking or not. Didn't think to do so until I read another post about a similar deal.
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SOB, I can't remember what all you've done (sorry - too lazy to read all the old posts). Have you done the valves yet? And have you pulled the carbs off and given them a deep cleaning? Not just "run a wire thru the jets" cleaning, but a thorough cleaning.....
Checked the valves and the consensus was leave as is, even tho the left exhaust was on the looser end at .013
I don't feel comfortable cleaning the carbs myself tbh. I'd rather have someone with experience do that. At this point I'm still just trying to diagnose the problem without fiddling with stuff that doesn't need it.
Someone said on another forum to give this test a try: pull the left plug to see if wet or dry with gas. Wet = spark issue. Dry = gas issue. I'm gonna try this and see if I can tell anything by doing so.
I'm sure it looks like I'm taking the long route here but I'd rather know for sure than take something apart I'm not comfortable with doing, especially if it doesn't need to be done and the problem could have been fixed by an easier procedure rather without possibly creating another one.
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I've determined that the left side coil is bad and needs to be replaced. Here's my reasoning:
Bike starts great, tested spark on each one while idling and started. Both plug caps delivering spark.
Ride bike around for a few miles, bike slows down/ becomes less throttle responsive, so I pull the plug cap on the left side and test spark. No spark. Whereas before at a cold start, there was healthy spark.
Anyone thing I'm wrong in my conclusion? I hope I'm right, this has taken too long to diagnose. I'm about to order a coil assembly on eBay to replace the left side.
I plan on cleaning at least the float bowls and popping in a fuel filter on the line going from the frame Petcock to the carburetors. I think I'll feel much more comfortable then.
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Have you checked the coil end of the lead for looseness? .. if it's loose in there they can kinda be tightened up by pushing in and giving a bit of a turn clockwise. ..
I managed to fumble/yank my right lead clean out of the coil a while back... recommendation here was dab of dielectric grease and screw the sucker back in there! ... hasn't failed again yet (over 2 years) ... I'll get to replacing the whole thing one day maybe ;)
Oh and if you absolutely MUST put an inline filter in there.... make sure it seals on the hoses real good and is recommended for a gravity fed fuel system.... or stop buying dirty fuel from a back road station ;)
Thanks I'll check that out tomorrow.
The fuel filter would be more to prevent any possible rust from the tank getting to the carbs reducing the frequency of cleaning them.
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So I replaced the coil and the problem still occurs after a few miles. No spark.
Could the wires from the coil to the battery have gone bad and need replacing? Is that a possibility?
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Have you checked them for bendy weak spots and clean connections?
I haven't inspected the full length of the wires but they both seem good at the coil end. One of the previous owners wrapped a bunch of electrical tape around all the wires at the front end of the bike.
Can I replace them with wires/connections from local sources? If so what parts would I need? If not, where should I purchase replacements?
I hate electrical stuff and have little to no knowledge of how it really works.
Are you thinking the metal connections just need to be cleaned with some citric acid?
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No I'm thinking both ends of the leads need to be clean and secure
no info on citric acid use.
Multimeter would be handy.. you got any mates/buddies that do know electrical?
Don't really have any buddies with automotive or motorcycle electrical experience... Trying to figure this out on my own.
I tested the signal generator (I believe what everyone refers to as the cdi) with the bike cold. I have the results written down but they were in good range.
I tried following the instructions in the clymer manual to test the stator (pickup) coil, but the instructions don't match up with what's on my bike.
Here's a picture of the stator coil:
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/23/b87ed52e8276d9f2f3b1a106427c3991.jpg)
Once I figure how to properly test the pickup coil, and rule that out, I'm going to take the covers off the wires and inspect and I guess test the wires going from the left coil back to... Wherever.
The frustrating thing is I'm not even sure what all these electrical pieces actually do... And the clymer manual is not helping me (a brand new owner) understand that.
Also, found this fuse completely loose, not connected anywhere, just sitting in the plastic cover on the rear of the bike. Anyone know what it is or where it belongs?
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/23/737df611fc17151ecbecdfe55da47358.jpg)
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1) that is not the stator - that is the regulator
2) that is your spare fuse...in case the starter relay fuse blows you have a spare. (this is the only fuse on the bike i think)
FWIW - this is a very basic machine with a very basic loom (aside from the safty interlock crap but even that is isolated from the rest of the system) - a little patience, a multi-meter and the wiring diagram should go a long way.
Yep. Technically called the regulator / rectifier, but usually referred to as R/R. The stator is located at the left side of the crankshaft, which provides AC power to the R/R. And if I'm not mistaken, that rubber boot should be on the starter relay (between the starter motor and battery).