I have been looking as some threads pertaining to replacing the stator gasket on a gs500. However when I picked up the gasket today the suzuki spare parts guy recommended that I used a high temperature silicone sealer on the bit of the rubber housing that encircles the stator wires. In the gasket replacement instructions I have seen there is no mention of that. That maybe because they recommended hanging the gasket and not removing the wires.
However, if the gasket is badly stuck to the stator cover and needs a lot of work to remove it, I suppose it is best to remove the wires from the stator cover. But in the instructions I have seen it is recommended not to remove the wires as per the following snip...
Gasket Remover expedites removal of old gasket material from the cover and removal can be time consuming due to the fact that the stator electrical wires are attached and routed through the cover.
Trying to remove the screws that route the electrical wires and pick ups on the cover is an exercise in futility and the wires do not disconnect from the main electrical harness.
So I was wondering what is the situation regarding completely removing the stator cover. Is it so difficult that it's better to try and get the gasket off while it's still connected and what exactly is involved in removing the cover completely. Also is it necessary to use a silicone seal around the rubber wire bushing.
Thanks.
I have removed the stator from the cover without issue. Just remove the screws holding the wire and stator...careful not to strip.
I know this is an old one but I'm bumping it anyway cuz user is still around :thumb:
User, did ya end up using a bit of silicone? How did you end up completing this job?
Just curious about your input (and others as well!) cuz I'm just finishing up this work on my GS and wanna triple check I got everything right. Up til now, I've done everything exactly by the Clymer book.
Howdy SBW,
I did use hi temp silicone on the flat face of the grommet, it made sense to me and a leak is really annoying because it gets oil all over your foot. Maybe it's possible to not use it because it's prolly not under much pressure, but it just didn't seem worth it to take a chance once I'd already been advised to use it. I left the wires attached to the stator cover so I did not remove the grommet. Had to use gasket remover and a razor blade left some very very fine scratches on the mating surface but it has not leaked after two years, all around the gasket is perfectly dry.
If you haven't done this yet I must warn you to take extra care when putting the stator cover back because it will want to snap out of your hands due to the magnets and if you're not ready for this it can lead to a misaligned gasket, which after seeing the condition of the old gasket I'd guess that was why it was leaking in the first place.
Thanks for the quick reply!!
Yes my new gasket is back on and the cover too. You ain't kiddin' about how it wants to snap right outta your hands haha!
I left everything together as well, although I did pop the grommet out to clean it and the metal surface really well. Went back together pretty easy-peasy.
Gasket remover did absolutely nothing to the old gasket in my case. :technical: Resorted to a drill with an attachment and a scotchbrite pad. Worked like a charm and really shined things up!
Did you use any spray adhesive or anything in addition to just the gasket? I've read about people doing that but I did not because the book doesn't say to do that.
The advice I got was to put it on dry and that seemed fine. I hear you about the gasket remover, unfortunately my only other option was to buy a drill and get one of those specially made knobbly gasket remover attachments. I had to make a 3 1/2 hour journey by bicycle and bus in 90 degree heat to get the gasket remover which did work, just, however I bubbled a bit of paint off the edge of the cover as I did not realise it was painted. Definitely best to use a drill and scrubber though.
Oh man!! That bicycle ride would certainly be a bit rough!!! :sad:
I'm really glad to know that putting the gasket on dry was what advice you got. That's exactly what I've done with both this side cover and my oil pan. I'd imagine if anything else was needed, the manual would say so... but it certainly wouldn't be the first time the manual didn't say every single step or helpful tip there is for a job :icon_rolleyes:
Old school advice from 1/2 a century ago: There was a time when gaskets were not self-sealing. At that time we used to grease the gaskets. The grease helped to seal the surfaces and made it really easy to pull the parts apart when needed and not have to spend time scraping the gaskets off the surfaces. I still grease some gaskets--primary cover, for example. Am I alone in greasing gaskets?
Quote from: ajensen on August 04, 2017, 08:39:06 AM
Old school advice from 1/2 a century ago: There was a time when gaskets were not self-sealing. At that time we used to grease the gaskets. The grease helped to seal the surfaces and made it really easy to pull the parts apart when needed and not have to spend time scraping the gaskets off the surfaces. I still grease some gaskets--primary cover, for example. Am I alone in greasing gaskets?
my gaskets always grease themselves when they start leaking... :D
I don't think ANY of the GS aftermarket gaskets are self sealing, expect the two cylinder head gaskets. none the one's I've used are. Never done OEM because in reality the none OEM ones have always worked, the only down side is the Athena gaskets are over sized for some reason need trimming once installed.
I always dab a little silicon grease on the ring when changing the oil filter. Always figured it wouldn't hurt and holds it in place better than holding my tongue just right. In fact, that's something I practice with most any o-ring - I imagine gaskets would benefit in a similar way.
- Bboy
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Quote from: ShowBizWolf on August 03, 2017, 09:49:36 PM
Oh man!! That bicycle ride would certainly be a bit rough!!! :sad:
but it certainly wouldn't be the first time the manual didn't say every single step or helpful tip there is for a job :icon_rolleyes:
I have just found out today from SledgeTheAmazining that the torque arm bolts need to be loosened when aligning chain. The manual doesn't say this and neither has anyone else.
Quote from: user11235813 on August 07, 2017, 08:27:39 PM
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on August 03, 2017, 09:49:36 PM
Oh man!! That bicycle ride would certainly be a bit rough!!! :sad:
but it certainly wouldn't be the first time the manual didn't say every single step or helpful tip there is for a job :icon_rolleyes:
I have just found out today from SledgeTheAmazining that the torque arm bolts need to be loosened when aligning chain. The manual doesn't say this and neither has anyone else.
what are these magical torque arm bolts you speak of?
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=71864.0
Quote from: user11235813 on August 08, 2017, 01:35:05 PM
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=71864.0
that paints a picture..
if its the steel square stock that connects to the caliper he's referring too. I don't see how loosening that makes any difference the holes are round and not oval but. I mean it can't hurt... my friend who is a certified mechanic for Suzuki never mentioned this to me before, and the manual says nothing.. but like I said, can't hurt anything so if one feels its proper, your bike, your time. :dunno_black: