this build is something I've been thinking about and planning since i got my gs back in early 2012, it's changed a lot in my mind but its pretty awesome to finally get a chance to build on my ideas.
the back story:
so throughout 2012 i spent more time than i can account fixing, modding and generally making the gs, my first road going bike pretty damn tidy not to mention quick for what it is. used to spend a lot of time on this forum but it has been a while! late 2012 i wasn't paying attention and put the bike down on a corner (long story short), whilst out heating up the gungum to set/seal on the new exhaust (go figures) ended up with bent bars, twisted frame, potentially bent forks, all the usual damage when you crash a bike really & soft tissue damage to my shoulder. put me off the road for a couple of month anyway, picked myself up a tidy 98' cbr600 shortly after and the gs has been left sitting on the back burner ever since. spent a year on the cbr, same story over again and the cbr project started going overboard, got a build thread on the cbrforum if anyones interested. proceeded to buy a cheap thunderace fighter as a runabout last winter, same again became a rolling project and well it ended with it damn near killing me in the summer, 2 weeks in hospital, 5 fractured vertebrae, collapsed lung, knackered arm, totalled bike. i was out for a shralp, favourite left hander, knee down and the back wheel skipped out on me at silly speeds... and i mean silly speeds. good fun really haha
so couple of month off the bike... gs still lying waiting for the cbr build to be finished and the cbr needing copious amounts of time spent and I'm still recovering and just doing what little i can, wound up essentially inheriting a watercooled gsxr11 which I've been using whilst sorting the cbr out. winters struck, the roads are gritted and the gsxr is far too good to ruin on salty roads. the cbr is very close to being roadworthy and although the plan was to run it over the winter this year, its just far too good to ruin all that time and effort.
i had no intention of starting this gs project until i could get a decent run at it and bash it out really but its not the way my cards have been dealt unfortunately, i'm going to have to get it on the road this winter. yes, i ride all year round in scotland, no i don't have a car. either way i thought this was as good a time as any to start documenting the build as its about to get rebuilt from the ground up onto a new frame.
this was originally going to be built up for my sister getting her license, its a still mine but you can use it and do whatever you want with but not sell it situation but I'm not sure what she's wanting to do anymore so i guess it can be my winter bike in the meantime.
I've had some quick bikes and I've spent a lot of time on them but the gs has to be one of the most fun bikes I've owned, it was my first an i plan on keeping it forevermore as a runabout.
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what I'm aiming for is a bit of a flattracker/fighter/cafe/race hybrid, it takes some stylistic influences from all of them but it will be clean & tasteful more than anything else.
the original intention was to use the entire cbr600 f3 front end I've got lying around :icon_lol: but with the gsxr i ended up getting a spare set of 750wp usds as well, fairly sure they use a 320mm disk, I've got a set of blue spot callipers from the ace' that will be absolute overkill as they were brutal on a bike weighing 225kg never mind a little gs. just need to get a wheel and disks really and make it all work.
planning on using the steel cbr 600 swingarm, wheel etc so i can actually run some decent 160 rubber, this is purely for function, not for looks, it'll look pretty sweet however. i also have an alloy ace' swingarm sitting and access to a vfr750 sssa although I'm not sure about it. just need to eye things up and get some measurement to see whats realistic.
other than that which is fairly major, looking at an under engine exhaust setup, exposed subframe and geneerally stripped right down to basics to shed as much weight as i can.
engine wise, contemplating a big bore kit on the gs motor. currently got pre 2001 2 circuit carbs, think they're 33mm off the top of my head, curious as to wether the 3 circuit (1mm bigger) 34's from the later model might be worthwhile. possibly some high velocity intake porting... :icon_mrgreen: i guess I've got a lot of things id like to do lolz going to gear it right up to do about 100mph top speed, the gs struggles above 100 anyway. this bike is for darting about backroads, making noise and possibly a trackway or two to see if it'll run rings round the biker bikes, no long hauls or anything. light, cheap, chuckable fun. currently on 14/43 gearing if i mind right, probably looking to be in the territory of 14/45.
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so, thats kind of the basics of where i foresee the build going, i was going to list what already been done and throw some pics up but its 5.08am and i should probably catch some sleep. pictures to follow. :thumb:
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heres a link to my main project at the moment, the cbr6 - http://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-600f3-17/build-time-p%3D-152895/
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5730/23339605501_f2f224556e_c.jpg)
as i got her, bog standard, tidy enough but just a little rough around the edges.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/578/22794991833_d4b6abcdf8_c.jpg)
this was her kind of halfway through my use, tidied up, braided lines, brakes rebuilt and general service, converted to renthal bars, can't remember what top yoke i used though, number plate / mudguard cut down, wee indicators. just the general things to tidy it up and make it a better bike.
after that she got re-geared on renthals when i done the chain and sprockets to 14/44 i think it was, that made a hell of a difference.
k&n lunchbox, rejetted to suit.
ignition advanced.
old leaky vacuum petcock replaced with a 01+ unit.
fuel lines / filter
120/70 pilot road up front and a 150/70 pilot road on the back, now yes it looked better and yes the bike felt more stable in high speed corners, experienced less headshake for sure but the 150 just wasn't suited on that rim, perhaps at the time i wasn't riding hard enough to make full use of the tyre width but in retrospect i really shouldn't have done it. not going to explain the ins and outs of tyre pinching as theres plenty of other info online. ps seriously, don't go bigger than +1 size, 140 is the way to go on the standard rim.
shorty levers, if i remember correctly i used a GSR600 (not gsxr) clutch perch and cbr 600 levers as the brake lever works out to be the same as the gs one. lots of cross referencing parts numbers to figure that one out.
aftermarket gsxr rear pegs modified to fit the front, can't remember what generation i used, probably SRAD.
had to do both wheel bearings and the head bearings.
forks rebuilt with 15weight oil and a couple of small preload spacers, damn that transformed the bike! wasn't a spongey mess after that.
remus exhaust and link for a f1/jellymould cbr 600, sounded mean as hell. rejet to suit, ran very well but it was still slightly on the lean side. can't remember what size of main i was on. possibly a 150...
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5705/23422174425_a745389b32_c.jpg)
150 rear and that remus can, cbr lurking in the background as well.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/748/22793817644_c92aeb5548_c.jpg)
post crash, all in all it doesn't look to be terrible does it but the frames is twisted, albeit not visibly you can feel it when you run your hand over it.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/749/23126396730_49b07ce2e3_c.jpg)
colossal dent in the tank, such a shame as i reckon it is the nicest colour for the gs.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5827/23126407150_0c32aa07c9_c.jpg)
just to show bar width, it was a set or trials bars, mad wide and made the bike turn in so quickly in comparison to the clip ons. also used gn125 clamps upside down to create a riser on the yoke to allow me to raise the forks through a little more. could have used any set of 7/8'' risers, they're basically all the same thing. the heated grips were a recent addition just to help through winter and some r&g bar ends.
and i think that is about it for a recap of where i am. really wish i had a pic in her prime. probably forgotten about loads of bits and pieces.
got some bits coming this week for her ;) ready for the teardown and rebuild next weekend.
update time!
got something kinda shiny in the post the other day ;)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/691/23394162622_03b4a28739_c.jpg)
certainly not pretty but it will clean up well whenever i have the time.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5719/22875604313_1dfa28f8bb_c.jpg)
viper can as well, bit scabby looking but once again it will tidy up well.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5675/23394301852_ea39f2e599_c.jpg)
cant complain, it cost me less than what an okay looking standard system would, much cheapness.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/646/23394292892_3fbf6e500f_c.jpg)
this little doohickey as well, mechanical to digital speedo cable converter for the koso db01r I'm robbing from the other project.
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(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/662/23470606521_a11208743f_c.jpg)
spent about 15 hours yesterday, rebuilding her. engine ready to be dropped. i say ''dropped'' but its more like twisted, wriggled, shouted at, jiggled then prised out of place :icon_rolleyes: what a farce.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/626/23185080089_95b234286a_c.jpg)
gs acrobatics :wink: just tearing it down.
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engine in the new frame :D
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swingarm, forks and a few other bits back on. new exhaust fitted as well.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5734/22924812964_0bd08aa7ae_c.jpg)
having a play with battery positioning, note the yellow bit poking out from behind the carbs and under the tank.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5668/22925940103_0c360959f7_c.jpg)
will likely make a tray up for stashing it in there in the future but this is just a quick rough build at the moment.
[(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5803/23470590091_ce95e94e41_c.jpg)
pulled the carbs for a clean, they weren't as bad as i was expecting, almost no varnish but the jets were blocked up.
k&n lunchbox and an open can, currently jetted to 40 pilot / 150 main and 3 turns out on the mixture screw. we'll see how that is on the new exhaust, before it was a smidge too lean on the remus.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5699/23257493900_c711c88d48_c.jpg)
bowls and floats were a bit stained, nothing too bad really.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5636/23257497390_595a7d00eb_c.jpg)
edge of the cap cracked on removal, not a biggie as I've got a spare set for parts... haven't seen the spares in 2 or so years right enough haha shall have to have a hunt.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/633/22925960623_8d84a3fb82_c.jpg)
tightens down enough, there isn't a vacuum leak but its not ideal.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5828/23185069359_206fe235a4_c.jpg)
split in this t-section, at least its not fuel think its just a breather or overflow possibly but i doubt the latter.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5637/22925961753_5b49a6b6c8_c.jpg)
and boom, back together. 15 hours later, back where i started. would've taken a lot longer if i didn't have the brother giving me a hand with the engine... that was a nightmare. other than the engine, it was relatively painless just because it was a well worked on bike before it got parked up.
we damaged the front engine mount bolt so that has to be replaced but its holding it in place for now. the rear upper engine mount bolt is knackered as well. i'll see what i can find to replace them online.
unfortunately i didn't get a chance to properly check out the ace' shock, at a glance its roughly 2'' longer though and seems to share the same clevis styles.
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spent a bit more time on it today,
i have a set of twin dominators lying about, generally I'm not a fan of them but i thought id try them out.
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not loving them and they're just positioned all wrong, sitting too far away from the forks as well. prefabs they wouldn't look so bad if they were black and slightly more subtle.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/754/23462928992_cab5fe6c08_c.jpg)
original gs headlight on a set of aftermarket clamps, just trying out clamp orientation.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5688/22943257674_4868a9e962_c.jpg)
clamp sits much better like that.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5780/23462930552_c2c11d2f7e_c.jpg)
yep much better.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5766/23571441665_7a52e887ce_c.jpg)
koso db01r+ mounted to the bars the best i could with the brace in the way. not going to faff about making a bracket for it to sit behind the bars this now.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/776/23275713250_856a8512a1_c.jpg)
its barely noticeably from the back of the bike but it really seems to leave the space of the original clocks a bit sparse.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5824/23462911422_fd7c735bdc_c.jpg)
rerouted all the connectors to their original place inside the headlight which tidied up this area, makes life much easier really.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/656/23489031061_767556046f_c.jpg)
the cable routing and underneath the ignition barrel sits the speedo convertor, difficult to see though.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5827/23489022131_8c83af94dc_c.jpg)
front master cylinders internals may have taken damage with the force of the crash pressing the lever right back in, at the moment the lever rattles about and engages the brake light and has a very firm feel about it, almost like an on/off switch and no modulation, will see what i can do to salvage it but taking note of the 1/2 bore size to see what else I've got lying around.
had it running for a while as well, i'll post a video shortly.
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so still to do:
front master cylinder / perch.
rebuild seized rear brake.
refit chain when new link arrives (had to cut the chain off the old frame you see)
refit original battery tray for the time being.
wire new speedo in and program it.
relocate horn.
then its just a case of making sure everything is torqued up and taking it for its MOT. should have a winter bike at that and the foundations of a build.
wee video of it running, starts on the button :D
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/602/23463615322_b69e28ac75_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/BKpanL)
open race can so its plenty loud but its not quite as obnoxious or as antisocial :flipoff: as id like ;) so i'll likely make it into a stubby when its back on the road I've got some time to play with. probably get another can out of it to be fair as its quite long.
stainless headers felt much lighter than the wrapped standard mild steel ones i had previously and the can is much lighter than the remus as it has a heavy road style reflection baffle. weight loss is always a bonus.
couple of things.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5658/23570035186_7ceaeb7cd5_c.jpg)
thunderace shock, seems to be about 330mm eye to eye.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/633/23658296095_6595c67401_c.jpg)
top eye, 22.5 - 25mm hard to tell from the pic in retrospect.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5778/23632237946_39b69713ba_c.jpg)
inside of bottom clevis, 27.5 - 30 mm. yet again difficult to tell in pics
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so when you check out this image of the sv shock on the wiki http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Upgrades.RearShock you'll see that from the top of the eye to roughly where you need to redress the holes is 13'' and I'm getting 13'' ish from eye to eye so thats good, i offered up the ace shock to the top of the gs one and both mounts at the top seem to be the same size, as its on the bike i haven't checked the bottom but I'm optimistic and well it shouldn't take much to make it work if somethings slightly amiss.
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the thunderace petcock bolts are 30mm apart as are the gs's :) the benefit of using this petcock is that it has a proper lever for turning the fuel off when removing the tank. the downside being that there isn't a reserve line, its only on or off and because of its location its only accessible with the tank off meaning i'll still need to run a vacuum petcock further down the line or find an inline off / on. I've got the petcock sitting so why not give it a go, also have a vfr 750 petcock sitting with a reserve, yet to measure it up though.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5818/23290355899_d3b855ee7c_c.jpg)
had a look inside the tank and well this is what happens when you leave a tank sitting without any fuel in it... going to sort that over the weekend with a spot of electrolysis.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/641/23658302735_33ce234302_c.jpg)
hadn't planned on touching the exhaust for now but i got some new scotchbrite like sanding pads and i tried them out. mirka mirlon ultra fine 1500 grit, brought it up in less than 5 mins, not to a proper finish as i was only testing the pads. the pads are really flexible which is unusual but they form well to whatever you're sanding, check them out they're pretty nice to use.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5773/23362619060_2b0334de9f_c.jpg)
close up of where i stopped for comparison, going to stubby the can just before that deep scratch, its just over halfway on the can, so i'll get 2 nice stubbys out of it.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/598/23362626790_f749b08fb1_c.jpg)
found the original battery tray and returned all the electrics to their place for now just as a quick fix to get it on the road. also fitted a bar end mirror i had lying around but it just looks ridiculous with the width of those massive bars. cut down the new numberplate thats relative to the new frame, its got an extra character over the plate i had previously which makes it look enormous in comparison but yeah not one for showing plates online.
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turns out that the cbr 600 f3 front master cylinder and the gs's are identical 1/2'' nissin items which is a bonus. was going to experiment with the ace's 14mm master but it uses a massive reservoir pot (that i can't find) and sits miles above, doesn't look clean on a naked bike.
rear brake seals arrived today as did the new chain link so very very soon its going to be in a runnable condition again.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5681/23047154734_54b1663d31_c.jpg)
tonights job, front engine mount and chain. possibly back brake as well dependant on time. going to stubby the can if i can find my hacksaw as well.
its a engine bolt from a gsxr750 slingshot that uses the same size. m10 x and i can't remember its length off the top of my head.
home from the shed at 1.38am this morning, not as late as i usually am up there but got a few bits done.
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dirty chain...
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oh, clean chain! amazing what some petrol and brush will do.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/593/23660753066_9d7a4f77ab_c.jpg)
back on the bike and greased. just used a clip link but it was being awkward. spent about an hour and a half forcing the end plate on enough to get the clip in. must have have a little bit of dirt in there to cause that but it can't be helped in a dirty dusty shed unfortunately. but hey its back on. :icon_mrgreen:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/721/23686836255_79e86ace90_c.jpg)
back brake is a different story, look at the state of the pistons... they were never great but being parked up so long took its toll. cleaned then up best i could, to a point where there was pitting but nothing protruding then polished them.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5780/23660762276_8d73ebfa15_c.jpg)
burst a new seal whilst putting one back in. gutted but thats the first proper problem area on the bike so far, seized bolts galore and the usual seized brake pad pins. pistons aren't really cheap to replace but needs must, 2 pistons almost cover the cost of a refurbed calliper so i might just do that, we shall see though.
pheeewww, what a long night achieving almost nothing. :icon_neutral: little bit closer i guess.
so, still to do:
front master cylinder / perch.
replace rear brake pistons or calliper.
wire new speedo in and program it.
relocate horn.
remove rust from tank.
wheelies! :icon_mrgreen:
O ring chains will be ruined by petrol.
The T fitting at the top rear of the carbs (yours had a rip in it a few posts back) is an air entry vent and its how gas exits the carbs when you drop the bike.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: The Buddha on December 12, 2015, 08:44:33 AM
O ring chains will be ruined by petrol.
The T fitting at the top rear of the carbs (yours had a rip in it a few posts back) is an air entry vent and its how gas exits the carbs when you drop the bike.
Cool.
Buddha.
good call on the o-ring chains, i didn't know that cheers man, suppose it'll kill all the grease around the o-rings, good thing mines is x-ring :confused: mainly just the plates rather than the rollers but its the easiest thing for cleaning them when they're really bad. always grease them up afterwards and oil them every 100 mile as well. not too concerned.
and ahhh is that what it is :thumb: knew it was for something like that overflow or breather although i didn't see the need for a breather.
just me or is the forum a bit quieter than it used to be Buddha?
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5753/23602194282_46f90846ac_c.jpg)
pistons polished and front brake rebuilt
completley forgot to take pics of the cbr master cylinder beside the gs one, they're not identical and the banjo bolt is a different pitch, used the gs pivot bolt no problem though.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5832/23083669383_e393c414cc_c.jpg)
had to use the cbr bolt on the left rather than the stainless gs one.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/718/23602168722_6c9d893271_c.jpg)
back together and bled in, is it just me or do the gs brakes take an age to bleed in! dread to think how much brake fluid i went through.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5736/23628200831_a4986294ac_c.jpg)
threw some wee smoked indicators on that i had lying around, the faux-carbon is tacky but its really barely noticeable especially with the smoked lenses. had to use the luggage rail holes that the tail plastics would normally pop into as the holes in the mudguard were too big and i couldn't find anything to space it out lolz but it works.
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and the front mounted in place of the headlight bolts, protrude further than id like but it doesn't matter too much, still much less protrusion than the original indicators by far. also mounted the horn back in its original location this now, plan on making a bracket to mount it in beside the coils though.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/612/23105148703_376406947e_c.jpg)
currently in the process of using electrolysis on the tank to remove rust. hopefully that will be finished tonight.
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started stubbing my exhaust last night, the saw i was using was like jelly sense the terrible cut... :icon_neutral: should've waited to get the right tools! but clever me persevered lolz
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redrew the line and left it for the night, one point was 1/4 of a inch out. never messed up a cut quite that bad on an exhaust before anyway.
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recut it today with a better saw / dremel, muuuuuch tidier! bang n the line actually. got the right size of stainless rivets to match the viper ones and keep it looking tidy and yeah thats about it. one 9'' stubby can :D hopefully get to hear it tomorrow if the tank is finished tonight.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/710/23342775599_269e83dc73_c.jpg)[/url]
the gs and the cbr build sitting side by side looking pretty similar actually haha not had much time to send on it with having to do the gs though.
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and thats my daily 1100 officially off the road for winter and into heated storage, ill have to find some time to get a few bits done on her over winter as well. late water-cooled 750 braced swingarm going on it, regearing it, carbs to clean, wheels to paint / polish and tyres to do. busy busy.
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wound up buying a refurbed calliper as it was cheaper than replacing both pistons unfortunately so i'll get that on next week then its just the speedo to wire in and program and were good to MOT! =D (well assuming the tank turns out alright lolz) don't see there being anything it could fail or or even any advisories as the bike really is spot on despite looking a bit rough with a dented tank and no tail plastics. been offered a set of renthals for nothing so that will replace the old bent ones, shame they won't be as wide as the trials ones though.
well, went out a 2am to go rinse the tank out, can't leave it sitting overnight in the shed I'm using unfortunately, its open air but the owner isn't keen on it although its no more dangerous than charging a battery when you take the right precautions. makes leaving a the tank being long enough a bit tedious.
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its not perfect, its removed all the surface rust, made a huge effort on the most of it and obviously left all the usual black harmless debris, theres a couple of very small dark patches out of reach of the camera call it 1cm2 but for now its more than clean enough, will likely replace the dented tank if i can't pull the dents anyway and at least a rusty fuel mix won't be piling into the carbs.
replacing the fuel lines / filter today and hopefully get a sound check in.
well, new fuel lines and filter. i'll have to grab a pic of the old filter as it was heinous! bike was hard starting, good spark both sides but the left float bowl wasn't getting any fuel, strange but I'm guessing it was stuck shut for some reason never experienced that before, usually they stick open if anything, flipped the carbs over gave them a quick spray out, put them back on and the bike fired on the button. :thumb:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/625/23148383243_000f98c28c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/BgxvRV)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/BgxvRV)
^^ wee vid of it running with the stubby can, good deep, burbley twin sounds. perhaps not as harsh or loud as i was expecting with past experiences with cans that short but its a still a good sound, obviously the video doesn't do it any justice. the hole someone drilled for a baffle gives off the slightest whispering sound, not bad just unusual once you notice it, probably put a dod of instant gasket over it. part of me wants to pop the can back open and remove the packing haha but yeah it wouldn't be a good move would it, for the sake of 4 rivets i might give it a shot sometime in the future, see what its like out on the road first though but loud noises just add to the fun factor I'm going for with this build.
suspect it will need a sly rejet, up to a 152 main, possibly even one size up on that because it was a tad on the lean side before with with a 150 on the slightly more restrictive, reactive (chambered) remus can. just have to wait and see really.
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so i can't remember if i said but I've purchased a refurbed calliper now for slightly more than the cost of 2 new pistons, really don't like doing it that way but this one time its made sense to.
also my spare battery from the cbr isn't going to fit in the gs's battery tray unfortunately so I've ordered a cheap one just for the sake of getting on the road again. yet again the plan is to stash the electrics/battery up out the way to leave the subframe open and exposed. no time to faff about making a tray up at the moment. the battery and the calliper are both expenses i really could of done without though.
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all going well i can insure it and book an mot for the end of the week :D :D :D
Looks like some awesome work! Well done!
Quote from: Daeouse on December 15, 2015, 10:08:07 PM
Looks like some awesome work! Well done!
cheers man, nice to get a bit of feedback :D just getting her back to a state of usability at the moment, nothing out of the ordinary at the moment but I've big plans come summer time ;)
//
wee update:
new battery is on charge hahaha important things going on at this end, honest ;) hopefully my refurbed calliper turns up tomorrow and i can get the bugger bled in and take the bike for a wee test run up some backroads. :angel: :police:
brake calliper still hasn't turned up :sad: done a few other bits and pieces in the meantime.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5686/23207232194_a685e34b10_c.jpg)
moved all the relays and connecters into here to get them off the side of the bike, its tight but it works.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5779/23208579323_38011d8b13_c.jpg)
wired in some 50w resistors for the indicators, thats them flashing at the correct rate after the led indicators. pretty half assed to be honest, because of the wiring harness being moved things were a bit tighter and the bullet connections for the rhs indicator fell directly under support for the seat making it impossible to work on them where the were so i went over the top... poor practice as was the linesman splicing rather than crimping bullet connectors onto the resistors. needed the bullet terminals i had left for the speedo as it is a bit cramped inside the headlight for big connector blocks. needs must eh.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/696/23467434599_7e51182d6e_c.jpg)
just the R/R left on the side, eventually it will be relocated though so that there are no electrics sitting exposed.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/693/23809262336_3b16926ea7_c.jpg)
speedo wired up, bit of a pain but theres an internal short which causes the Neutral light to always remain on and somethings up with the indicator idiot lights now so it doesn't flash with the indicators. no biggie, i guess ill just keep the half knackered one on the gs and get a new one on the cbr. note mileage is for the cbr, need to find the speedo change it to the correct mileage, its around 30thou.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/616/23208577003_dc57841765_c.jpg)
note: the easiest way to undo the plastic screw for the bulbs in brake lights is a set of water pump pliers, yeah changed a bulb and replaced the headlight bulb as well. theres a few odds and sods that just don't warrant pics
//
so at that, i programmed the speedo, its a bit of trial and error but it should be right or close then proceeded for a run up some backroads just to make sure the bike was working minus the back brake haha
initial thoughts: the front brake is better than i remember with a braided line, the steering is very light... in fact almost too light, the head bearings might need just a little nip up although there doesn't seem to be movement. chirpy enough little motor and you really can lamp it into low speed corners like nothing else! also 1st gear feels really really short when your used to bikes that'll do 80 in first :icon_lol: the exhaust sounds mean when under load :icon_mrgreen:
so the bike felt like it dropped onto one cylinder, struggled and then died about 5-600 yards out the village on the return journey, wouldn't start, had a look at the side of the road and there was fuel sitting in the filter, left it for a minute before trying to start again and no luck so it was a short push home...
it was pitch black and i could see car lights coming up behind me for ages, as they were drawing closer I'm thinking please don't be the police please don't be the police :icon_rolleyes: as i come in under the streetlights and pop up onto the pavement i check over my shoulder and guess what... :police: :police: :police: crawl past at about 5mph scoping me out before proceeding to stop at the junction another 500-600 yards down the road and hover around. i turn down a side street, which is the way i was headed anyway, dart down it and get the bike into the shed :D not sure what they were up to but they certainly lingered on a bit. :bowdown: can't believe i didn't get stopped as a test run before sorting out any paperwork would have been heavier than just a slap on the wrists i can tell you that... fuuuuuuuuuck, heart in mouth stuff. crazy though, i live out in the middle of nowhere and I've never seen them on that road before, what are the chances of that :cheers:
so whilst in the shed (hoping no one comes knocking) i get the tool box out, tested for spark and it was all good, check the fuel filter again and although theres fuel in it there was a 10mm air gap from the top inside which struck me as unusual as normally they fill completely. pulled the carbs again, bowls were clean and no sings of obstruction, sprayed the jets out anyway for good measure, let the bowls fill again and tried to start it again with no luck... now I'm thinking that theres fuel going in and theres good spark WTF. check around the head and rocker gasket to see if its failed and nope.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5726/23726980952_fcf27da194_c.jpg)
do a quick compression test and get 75psi then 100 on the left and on the right 75 then 100 again so at least its consistent. its just a push on style one so perhaps there was a little leakage. I've got a screw in attachment but its a bit notchy when you screw it in and i don't want to knacker any threads. put everything back together, hit the button just before I'm about to leave and boom it fires up first crank. what is it playing at haha :cookoo:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/679/23209836933_c1b48451a0_b.jpg)
so i check the workshop manual when i get home and find that compression is meant to be 142-199 psi, calling for a teardown if its under 142 anywhere down the 114 limit. hmm... i then read that you're meant to keep the throttle wide open whilst doing this, something i failed to do :icon_rolleyes: so although i got low readings i suspect it will be within spec with the throttle open. shall find out tomorrow.
went and picked up the bike from the shed once i had seen the :police: weren't lingering round (paranoid i know) and on the 50 second ride tops it certainly didn't feel like the motor was lacking anything, it felt strong.
//
so my only thought on the matter is fuel starvation. previously i experienced this and upgraded the old vacuum petcock to a newer 01+ item and solved it. it didn't really feel like starvation from what i remember of it from years ago but its a fairly reasonable guess as it matches the symptoms to some degree. could just be acting up because theres not enough fuel in the tank to push it through the lines although there is fuel in the tank, the air gap in the filter also leads me to think that. perhaps filters don't always fully fill and I've never noticed before. just a bit odd. maybe its down to the thunderace petcock I'm running on the tank but it flows freely enough. also going to replace the vacuum petcock with a straight forward on/off inline one. in the meantime I'm going to run the fuel line straight from the tank through the filter to the carbs, just means i'll have to squeeze under the tank to turn it off whilst not in use. i'll also throw a small jerrycan of fuel in before i go for the mot, not going to risk test rides up there again :icon_eek:
hopefully its just fuelling, i mean it ran totally fine until it started bogging out. and spontaneously started working again, presumably once the bowls properly filled again. the other alternative is electrical and well it had spark on both sides yet refused to start, kill switches can be ruled out as they would also stop the starter from spinning on the gs and that wasn't an issue. I'm well versed with the electrical side of things and it all seems fine there.
heres hoping the calliper turns up tomorrow so i can sort everything out before everyone shuts up for xmas holls next week.
still waiting on the calliper... losing my mind haha :sad:
yeah threw a jerry can in the tank and risked another ride, ran absolutely fine so it must have been starving with there not being enough fuel in there, still should've been more than enough. sounds mean and well yeah damn I've missed having the gs going!
quick compression test w/ WOT returned a 145(ish) on both sides :thumb: so its at the bottom end of its spec 142-199 psi but its running healthy enough.
checked the plugs and its definitely running a spot lean on 150s / 3turns out so I'm about to order some 152.5s and maybe 155s afterwards, running fine enough though.
also did a couple of wee things like cable tie wires, adjust the chain blah blah blah lolz
one thing to note that its very difficult to read RPM on that gauge and the speedo isn't close as i squeezed like 87mph out of 6th when its geared to be 122.8mph (give or take) at 11thou redline in 6th and it used to do it, then again i couldn't tell if it were near redline lolz but she didn't have anything left to give, I'm about 78-81 kg so its not like I'm all that heavy, so i'll have to play with the numbers and find means of calibrating it a bitty closer.
Glad that small crisis was averted. :wink: :police:
Good to hear the compression got sorted out (somehow), and interesting to hear about the weird gas gremlin. . . :confused:
Quote from: Daeouse on December 20, 2015, 12:33:53 PM
Glad that small crisis was averted. :wink: :police:
Good to hear the compression got sorted out (somehow), and interesting to hear about the weird gas gremlin. . . :confused:
yeah man... i think i woudve been in a spot of bother :icon_rolleyes: think i forgot how to breathe for a couple of minutes, so intense!
compression was me being daft having never tested it before, had no idea about needing to hold the throttle open. there was me thinking the gs had nothing left it could teach me lol
fuel. when i was working on the bike, testing compression, cleaning the carbs etc after that nearly it was on prime so it mustve just taken a while to refill the bowls i guess. its strange but the gs is known for its petcock problems. also figured out that the air gap in the filter is just because its sitting horizontally, nothing to worry about but its strange that it doesn't completely fill.
its basically all good to go just need the brake so i can MOT it, sort out insurance and tax.
hopefully i can pull the dents out the tank, that would be cool. then paintstrip/laquer it. as for a winter bike its going to be some amount of fun sliding around on something so light and flickable.
Quote from: iamhiding on December 20, 2015, 01:04:08 PM
compression was me being daft having never tested it before, had no idea about needing to hold the throttle open. there was me thinking the gs had nothing left it could teach me lol
Interesting point to remember in the future for me as well. . .
Quote from: iamhiding on December 20, 2015, 01:04:08 PM
hopefully i can pull the dents out the tank, that would be cool. then paintstrip/laquer it.
If the dents are small, and not at a crease point, try dry ice (wrap it in a hand-towel, hold it against the tank, and pass it across the spot slowly. It should make a popping noise when it un-dents). If that doesn't work, try other thermal shock methods.
[/quote] If the dents are small, and not at a crease point, try dry ice (wrap it in a hand-towel, hold it against the tank, and pass it across the spot slowly. It should make a popping noise when it un-dents). If that doesn't work, try other thermal shock methods.
[/quote]
thanks i'll have a look into that dude :thumb: at the moment I'm thinking about trying to either hot glue a couple of bits of rod or old allen keys to it, might try epoxy even and just going for the slide hammer technique. or see if i can get a pry bar onto it through the fuel cap. don't have t worry about the paint finish really so that makes it a bit easier.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/749/23126396730_49b07ce2e3_c.jpg)
the reflections probably make it look slightly worse than it is but theres two together, should be able to get the worst of it out but its not a priority at the moment really, i don't mind minor dents and creases too much, it adds a bit of character i reckon.
sooooo this turned up yesterday :D
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/679/23895365955_dcaa71e673_c.jpg)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/654/23895358055_15a8f70603_c.jpg)
pleasantly surprised with the finish although its a bit powdery, think its been a VHT stove paint job although the guy does offer blasting/powdercoating services.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/744/23812869611_c8e24ed320_c.jpg)
pistons that clean really are a thing of beauty.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/769/23895360775_6c1fd21243_c.jpg)
found a pile of pads in a spares box for the gsxr.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5698/23527460139_a7613b7d27_c.jpg)
low and behold! a set of almost new EBC HH's i love it when mr suzuki uses the same parts.
//
now... the downside. after a lot of frustration, swearing and generally being annoyed shall we say thinking the threads in the nipple were stripped i spoke to the seller and he suspects he has given me a nipple for a pre 04 calliper when its a 07 item i bought, think he said one uses a 7mm where as the other uses an 8mm, so he's sending me a nipple to try.
had a look online cross referencing the parts number and post 03 the number don't match any of the pre 04 type models (drz, burghmans etc) so he might be onto something.
the nipple screwed in fine enough but just wouldn't nip up, visually the threads look ok so I'm optimistic about the situation. massive inconvenience when i was needing to get the bike on the road before xmas though. i think what really got me is that i never buy refurbed parts, id much rather save a couple of quid and do the work myself but in this instance timescale and cost made it worthwhile just to run into another problem there shouldn't have been.
yes i could pinch the seals and pistons for the other calliper but i wouldn't want to risk damaging the seals and ending up even worse off, that and its just the principle really. can't believe i chose the option that shove been hassle free just to run into another problem... oh wait, yes i can haha its me and thats just the way it is with anything mechanical isn't it.
//
also been reading up on some engine work, basically its not really going to be worthwhile. wiseco no longer make the 550 kit and the time research and development will take for a custom big bore isn't worthwhile, same goes for the 8v head. camming it isn't an easy one, nor would you expect see good results on a 4v head. still intrigued by high velocity intake porting (reducing intake ports rather than expanding) and the head can still be skimmed to raise compression. the thing with the gs is that parts are easy to come by (generally) and with it being a 2cyl it halves the cost in comparison to working on a 4cyl.
an engine swap would be pretty rad, recently found a gs that had a cbr600 f2 motor in it... can you imagine a gs scrreeeeaaaaming past you at 150? hahaha what a sleeper. not convinced its a good idea but its interesting. the downside is that one of the things i love most about the gs is its twin characteristics. I've got access to a v4 vfr 750 engine i could play with which is more twin like than an inline 4 but i can't justify the need nor are my fabrication skill up to that level. another draw back is the additional weight with the bigger engine, carbs and a cooling system. yet again what makes the gs fun to right is just how little it weighs.
oh this interesting,...ok sub'd :thumb:
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on December 22, 2015, 10:53:07 AM
oh this interesting,...ok sub'd :thumb:
thanks man :cheers: really looking forward to getting it back on the road for some flat out... going nowhere quick carnage over winter haha
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/759/23916245735_82bb1267d7_c.jpg)
had planned on using the brake torque arm on the left, i had it lying around from the ace, its alloy/lightweight so why not eh. turns out its just a smidge on the short side, would put too much slack into the brake line making it twist about rather than sitting cleanly so its a no go. drilled a few holes into the gs torque arm just because of the the massive weight savings... y'know... obviously... and definitely not because i think it looks cool :thumb: think it might need a few more but then it might make it obvious just how hilariously off centre they are P=
someone didn't map the drill-hole properly beforehand. . . LOL! :thumb:
Good solution.
Quote from: Daeouse on December 23, 2015, 01:12:31 PM
someone didn't map the drill-hole properly beforehand. . . LOL! :thumb:
Good solution.
haha not at all, must of had a squint centre punch :tongue2: :thumb: nah it was rushed in minus temperatures whilst being a tad ''annoyed'' should've left it for anther day. gs swingarm etc is only temporary until I've picked up an early blade back end for the cbr, then the cbr swinger will be getting mounted on the gs... wow that was tedious to write. can't wait till the gs build is fully underway.
more pics! :police: :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on December 24, 2015, 07:57:03 AM
more pics! :police: :icon_mrgreen:
:police: :police: :police: RuuuuuuuuuuuuN! haha
shall do shortly dude :thumb:
//
so the new nipple the guy was sending out turned up xmas eve, now 1 of 2 things. either it is the right size but the smaller nipple managed to ruin the threads or the threads were the problem and the smaller nipple is the right size. currently the smaller one which used to grip in slightly rattles around and doesn't grip in at all and the larger bites into the first thread but looks to be too big. the sizes are so similar it could be either way here.
my options are
1. wait to send it back which in return will free up the funds to buy pistons and seals at some outrageous price...
2. risk drilling / re-tapping the calliper which means there is no way i can return it and it could leave me massively out of pocket.
3. rob the pistons and seals to use in my old calliper and try get a refund on just the new calliper minus parts.
3, sounds like the easiest option but i can't find the dimensions for the newer pistons to see if theres any difference. 04 onwards uses different parts numbers and the shop i usually use for finding dimensions (wemoto) stocks the part up until 04 but not after that. pre 04 is 38mm OD x 22mm long but i just can't find anything to compare it to without having to faff about tearing the new one apart to see if its a match. i'll just have to do it that way but i haaaaaate working with brake fluid, its a colossal pain in the ass haha
been through countless parts fiches, cross referencing parts numbers and worn out every option trying to get a measurement online.
I've been in one hell of a crap mood over this for days, wouldn't be so fussed but with it being over the xmas holidays nothing is really open so it can't be dealt with and... I'm without transport until its resolved.
raaaaaaaaaaaage! :mad:
//
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1604/23325364134_738f9d30bd_c.jpg)
got my 152.5 mains to play with once its on the road and an inline petcock to replace all the vacuum nonsense.
//
going to see if i can go pop the pistons out the newer calliper using compressed air and measure them later on, hopefully they are a like for like match between the early and later models. for the record its an 07 calliper and i was running the 00' before, at least there will be a definitive answer for anyone unlucky enough to an in a similar circumstance.
also the calliper / master is shared with the gsxf750, probably a few others as well.
sooooooo, we have good news :D
finally found time to pop the new piston out the calliper and it seems to be a match for the earlier ones. its possibly an absolute fraction taller.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1664/23992453675_1bf06b6531_c.jpg)
seems to be 38mm od like the older gen
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5717/23624591029_511138f2da_c.jpg)
seems to be slightly taller like i said, could have been the surface i was working on though.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1563/23909903961_60fc9c7708_c.jpg)
not sure if the guy i bought the calliper from has actually turned out new pistons or just refinished. either way the new piston isn't magnetic... therefor its stainless :icon_mrgreen: bonus!
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1456/23624598229_8bb627de52_c.jpg)
new shiny nipple definitely seems to be larger than the old style. bit of a pain but my digital vernier for measuring stopped working tonight so i couldn't accurately take measurements on anything.
//
so tomorrow i think i might tidy up and paint my old calliper. don't really need to but I've got some time to play with so why not. :thumb: hopefully the garage i mot at is open on monday :wink:
:woohoo: bikes good to.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1452/23929917231_35dd0edc63_c.jpg)
couldn't be bothered giving it a paint haha
something to note about early vs late rear brakes: same pistons, different seals... managed to salvage one set and i had a new set spare, got lucky there.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1524/23385668013_f2099d8e0e_c.jpg)
didn't get so lucky here, tightening it up in a vice, it slipped and tore off the lever... balls! going to see if i can sort something out with the seller. not happy with the quality of it.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5677/23385665693_47cb85ef14_c.jpg)
couple of pics. just because :D
dislike the gap where the original speedo would occupy, can't really do much about it with this headlight setup. might try raise it just to see what like. that or flip the headlight brackets upside down.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5754/23385675573_2d5cc3b7a9_c.jpg)
just remembered, need to get the r/r relocated.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1448/23986383996_cb4eb1bb04_c.jpg)
probably the best angle. do like the exposed subframe look. i'll be ditching the mirror and the chain guard after its mot'd.
:thumb: me likey the last pic,....and what is the thumb fitting valve and nipples for? Maybe I should read back,.... :2guns:
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on December 28, 2015, 09:02:12 AM
:thumb: me likey the last pic,....and what is the thumb fitting valve and nipples for? Maybe I should read back,.... :2guns:
haha well its an inline petcock/tap for the fuel, i replaced a faulty 1st gen vacuum petcock years back for a 2nd gen which will eventually fail. i actually quite like the vacuum setup, think its really quite clever but on the other hand its unnecessary clutter. guess I'm just looking to simplify the fuel system, improve an area of potential failure and remove all possibility of fuel starvation.
bought another valve to use the other 1/4'' bsp fittings, only a couple of quid and should be much sturdier than that nylon handled one.
small update //
got this wee valve to replace the one o managed to break prior to fitting... thinking about cable tying it to the clutch cable so its nice and accessible, maybe not though, just have to see how it works out.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1660/23484574764_b2afaf425d_c.jpg)
i actually wrote an update post ages ago but the internet went down and i lost it :technical:
anyway, hit a major setback regarding insurance. basically I've got all my bikes on one multi bike policy which ends feb 1st, to add the gs onto the policy for 4 weeks they wanted £80... when it would cost me £130 to insure it for the year with them normally, which equates to about 11.50 a month not the 80 they want for one month :cookoo: being a young(ish) guy most companies won't touch me because of the mods, who I'm with is the only company i can get decent quotes with as they don't charge for mods. they kind of have the market cornered in that regard. plus i can only use my ncb bonus on one policy at a time. long story short it would cost me 200+ a year if i just started another policy without the ncb. can't exactly not declare mods on a bike that doesn't look or sound standard either. so... I've got to wait until my old policy is up until i can insure the gs :sad: not quite as annoyed as i was but it almost defeats the purpose of building a winter bike up but hey at least its a good starting point for the rest of the build.
yeugh... pain in the arse. well i'll get the fuelling sorted and hopefully get the ace shock on before long whilst finding time between the other projects. just annoyed that I've put a significant amount of time into it and a splash of money that could have been used elsewhere to run into a problem so incredibly mundane.
so this time I'm going to copy this update just incase the internet loops out on me again haha really need to do that with all the updates just incase. theres nothing worse.
oh possibly have my hands on a set of 36mm vfr750 carbs to split and modify for the gs :thumb:
only 18 days until i can insure the wee beastie... this is torture... send help.
17 days... I'm not counting, honestly. :icon_lol:
Hang in there, man! :woohoo:
haha I'm going :cookoo:
had a couple of wee rips about the streets here when I've had stuff to do around the village, its a peppy little thing that you can just throw about without much regard, missed it so much. its weird being on a bike that only does 40 in 1st and you're used to double that on some serious machines :icon_mrgreen: but it is what it is and its damn a damn good little bike.
got my hands on some brutal paint stripper for when i get round to doing the tank, the kind that can't be bought off the shelf in the uk :thumb:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1677/24603852091_9c37ea757d_c.jpg)
well, last night i finally made an effort to swap over the old bent trials bars for a set of imitation renthals i was gifted.
bit of an arse of a job as the left hand side heated grip had been hammered on as it was very tight fitting :icon_rolleyes: a couple of years ago haha, that was fun to remove.
you can see how different the geometry is between the road bars and trials, the road bars have much more backsweep and a lot less rise which is much more suited to the riding position but it looks less badass & madmax if you will, something i liked about my gs.
new bars are 29'' rather than the 32''ers that were on there before, not loving the loss of width as it looks much less meaty but for the minute i rode it it felt much more suited. it would probably be even better if i removed the risers but the length of the brake cable would be far too long unfortunately.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1464/24401827540_3f3e5e0a22_c.jpg)
doesn't look terrible anyway.
still need to relocate the speedo to the other side of the bars to clear the area and fill in the gap of the original speedo.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1718/24579598372_99d6fd5ee7_c.jpg)
threw a bungee net over the back seat... because, well i had it sitting haha
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1710/24697369465_071a26296b_c.jpg)
also gave it a clean earlier on that day, i say 'clean' but really the pressure washer (from a healthy distance) ripped off a bit of wheel paint and swingarm paint. not fussed really as its a bit of a rat until the real work begins with the front end swap etc.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1584/24338259359_08ea3414d6_c.jpg)
bit of snow late this morning once the blizzard stopped. 60mph winds... plus snow... eek!
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1544/24612432201_5fba6750be_c.jpg)
just a shame i couldn't get out for a slide around.
//
thats my insurance up as of tomorrow midnight! so i can get the gs insured starting monday and hopefully get it in for an mot the same day :thumb: tried calling my garage up but they're closed over the weekend yeugh. glad to finally be getting on the road again, its been a long couple of months.
Not bad, man! Please buy a cover though! LOL! :wink:
Quote from: Daeouse on January 30, 2016, 06:45:16 PM
Not bad, man! Please buy a cover though! LOL! :wink:
haha I've got 2 sitting, unexpected snowfall but yeah no point at all man, its a bit rat and until its built up properly its not worth the effort, it rains most of the time here at the moment and its contradictive to trap moisture under the cover by putting it on a wet, salty bike. just need to keep it clean and the salt from the roads off of it.
good news though, that is it finally back on the road after a 2 year wait and an intense final month haha :thumb: good fun but damn its slow, but it is what it is and its partly why i love the effing' thing. roll on summer so i can get the new front end on =] few wee things still to fettle with in the mean time. sounds ridiculously loud when cruising, really down think i'll need to strip the can out haha
one thing to note is that the carbs are in need of tweaking on the 1/4 throttle pilot circuit and the 4/4 seems to be marginally lean.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1589/24685048871_e88298294b_c.jpg)
Understandable. Ride safe on those roads!
// wee update
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1455/24359996843_900a1b9431_c.jpg)
dropping the oil for a long overdue service, as black as you get but no nasties at the bottom :thumb:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1510/24359996283_1ee78594b7_c.jpg)
old manky k&n and a nice fresh filter.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1682/24691354530_90c0f06c1c_c.jpg)
no nasty stuff in the filter / filter housing either.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1533/24960549066_0b14cb7ac0_c.jpg)
finally got round to simplifying the fuel system with the new valve. nice, short, no excess bumf. (just need to remember to turn the fuel off and on haha :icon_lol:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1672/24986871155_329e4aaffe_c.jpg)
just showing the routing.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1705/24960558716_fcbbebc133_c.jpg)
cable tied onto the clutch cable to support it.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1665/24356260434_89060bcbdb_c.jpg)
and a very quick re-jet. best to make only one change at a time so i threw the 152.5 mains in and reset the mix screws to 3 turns.
only had a short ride as it was like 11.30pm, haven't plug chopped it yet but 4/4 throttle feels much stronger and the issue with 1/4 // 2/4 on deceleration is still present as was expected. need to play with needle height as its either too lean or rich in the midrange, very difficult to differentiate whilst riding. but yeah one change at a time so i'll play with it tomorrow :icon_mrgreen: night well spent :cheers:
still enjoying the little bike massively, just with i had more time to mess around with it with having to bounce time around on other projects when I've got it spare. :icon_mrgreen:
also playing with the idea of going +5t on the back sprocket taking it to a 44t :confused: would be entertaining with the -2t I'm already running up front :cookoo: :icon_rolleyes: :icon_mrgreen: just when I've got a spare bit of money to play with really. like I've said before the bike is only for doing short quick, razzing around backroad or into town type miles. really is just a bit of a laugh.
gearingcommander.com << if you're interested in playing around with gearing :thumb: great resource.
when I rebuilt my engine I cleaned it top to bottom. all fresh metal.. after the first 500 miles I checked the oil. blacker then tar. I think the GS just likes making black oil.. :dunno_black:
Quote from: J_Walker on February 12, 2016, 08:55:43 PM
when I rebuilt my engine I cleaned it top to bottom. all fresh metal.. after the first 500 miles I checked the oil. blacker then tar. I think the GS just likes making black oil.. :dunno_black:
Sounds about right dude, pretty sure most engines are the same. Christ my thunderace used to gobble 600ml> every 100 miles or so... The oil never got a chance to get dirty in that beast hahaha constant fresh, almost at 2/ rates. > :o
Looks like good work!
Quote from: Daeouse on February 13, 2016, 08:52:19 PM
Looks like good work!
thanks dude :thumb:
so, yesterday i played with the tune a little. and found that although the 152.5 mains made the bike pull stronger at full throttle but it actually had less top end. my speedo which is calibrated to gps accuracy (spot on and unarguable unlike the stock speedo) was struggling do low 90s where as before it was happy till 95 then struggled for the last few mph.
yeah the theoretical 110/115mph the gs has claimed as stock top speed is... very unlikely haha with the work I've put into mine to make it a hot gs, the engine being a healthy and low mileage 22thou, a bit less weight, it being geared for acceleration, should do 117mph @ redline in 6th with the 150/70 rear tyre but i can only scrape an ACCURATE 99mph out of it at a push. i had seen 115/120mph on the old speedo, just shows how inaccurate they are really. I'm not heinously overweight, 6ft & 80kg haha just for the record.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1470/24380067334_2419173222_c.jpg)[/url]
raised the needle down one clip to its highest setting, massive improvement midrange.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1445/24917368051_be4006c110_c.jpg)
y'know those o-rings that block the vacuum port that are far too east to lose... hahaha bugger! in the 100 times I've pulled the carbs i can't believe i finally lost one.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1460/24380222054_22a27a6ebb_c.jpg)
cut up a little bit of inner tube just to block the hole for now, just means i can't sync the carbs which is fine as they were synced not long before it came off the road. i do have a spare set of carbs somewhere, but god knows where I've put them. its fine for now though.
// raising the needle sorted out my my 1/4 - 1/2 throttle hesitation on deceleration, played about with the air mix screw out on the road for bit, tried leaner and it was worse and found that 3.5 turns out helped the midrange acceleration (I'm assuming because the circuits overlap albeit slightly) but it developed a < 1/4 hesitation under initial load, i.e. pulling away. dialled it back to 3 and it seems to have diminished it.
now for the top end speed I'm lacking, I'm thinking one of 2 things. either the 152.5s are too rich despite 150 plug chops coming up on the lean side or maybe its down to the new fuel line setup. i wouldn't have thought so but its a possibility and its the little things that can throw it. at the moment I've thrown the 150s back in to test top end again.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1663/24383833833_a56a3d43e7_c.jpg)
wee pic from the snowy tuning session, one of the few roads clear enough to do it. had plenty of fun on the white stuff though :icon_lol: :cookoo: :thumb:
carbs are a game of trial and error but I've been threw enough to know what I'm doing nowadays, carbs on the gs are far too easy to work on as well.
so, some more diagnostics and fine tuning are on the cards for today.
//
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1558/24380062634_182ac9f64d_c.jpg)
was helping the brother with the vfr last night, placed his wheel up against mine... now just how badass would that look! it completely takes away from my original intent with the bike though thats the only downside but it lends itself to that madmax / zero fucks given vibe i love so much.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1460/24715361710_9b3cd10778_c.jpg)
anyway, he's going back to road tyres for the good weather coming in and offered me the front tyre to use so i would just have to buy a rear to suit if i fancied doing it, his 180/55 is no use for a gs. conti TKC80 if you're interested. so anyway its quite likely this will be getting done at some point :thumb: I'm tempted to keep the forks/wheel/etc and the swingarm/wheel/etc with a set of tkc on them as spares i guess so i can chop and change when i swap the front end and swingarm etc. quite like the idea of that.
ohhh the temptations! :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted:
right, cup of tea and craic on :thumb:
spent some time playing around in the snow and testing it again. 1/4 throttle problem is still present it would seem but mostly when pulling away initially, this is with it at 3 turns. i think I'm going to take a run with 2 and go to the other extreme with 4 just to gauge a better feel of whats going on again, going quarter turn at a time. its not running terribly by any means i just can't find the sweet spot so my thinking is that if it gets better with richer mix above 3 turns its likely needing a size up on the pilot. either way the hesitation when picking up 1/4-1/2 throttle on over run is no longer present.
4/4 throttle is a bit strange, 150 feels airy and i know from the plug chop that it is a smidge lean (lean is better for top end) and the 152.5 pulled better but lacked in the top end. I've lost a couple of mph top end even with the 150s returned as well now so there could be something else at play like the changes I've made to the fuel system even though its higher flow and should eradicate any fuel starvation. really i need to check the plugs with the 152.5s in don't i haha
all this stuff might seem irrelevant but its just to help me remember what I've tried :thumb:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1555/24398060213_8802ac7200_c.jpg)
couple of snaps from todays slidey adventures :icon_lol:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1570/25024924875_6590a18757_c.jpg)
just a shame i don't have those knobbly tyres for it haha
bit of a comical one. was out on the bike, stood up on it to jump off whilst coming to a stop and...
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1706/25085073172_459aef5524_c.jpg)
left peg snapped hahaha it must have been cracked from the crash on the old frame. been gifted a set of what seems to be aftermarket bandit 12 pegs to fit/make work :thumb:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1446/25203335125_50d8c598e8_c.jpg)
wire for the heated grips decided it would rather be, well it would rather be unattached lolz. sealed unit, doesn't appear to be repairable so they'll be coming off tomorrow and getting replaced with a good ol' set of renthal greys :icon_mrgreen:
haven't really had any time to mess about with the gs, just been riding it about popping wheelies at every opportunity, making noise and having fun.
I've also ordered something a bit mental that will hopefully turn up in the next day or so :nono: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :thumb:
ooooooh what a teaser!!
Can't wait to see the pegs :thumb:
I've entertained the idea of heated grips cuz I like to ride every chance I get (it's not too bad tonight, 38F) but I never got around to buying some.
Loving the thread btw :cheers:
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on February 22, 2016, 07:09:17 PM
ooooooh what a teaser!!
Can't wait to see the pegs :thumb:
I've entertained the idea of heated grips cuz I like to ride every chance I get (it's not too bad tonight, 38F) but I never got around to buying some.
Loving the thread btw :cheers:
pegs aren't anything special but they're quite tidy, they'll hopefully do the job haha riding around with a stub of a gsxr peg is no use like.
well when i bought the heated grips many a year ago it was my first winter riding, must say they made a hell of a difference when you're out in low or minus temps. they're not scorching hot but its enough to keep the chill off your hands. kind of hated the extra clutter from the wires and the control unit though, that and how chunky they were. can't compare Fahrenheit to Celsius from the top of my head but if you do a lot of riding in 4C and under, you're not fussed about chunky grips i'd definitely recommend them. think I'm going to be running a set of heated gloves for the rest of this winter.
but yeah cheers dude :cheers: quite enjoying having just a F-it, functional, rat, zero F's given project :icon_mrgreen: its actually quite surprising how many people complement and ask about it given that its not really in the best cosmetic condition. its just not the usual uninspiring commuter that people expect a gs to be.
getting a bit rusty round the edges but it will be much tidier when i get round to painting and stuff when the good weather comes in and the bike becomes tertiary.
The extra clutter and the chunky grips are actually both of the main reasons that I was like ehhh maybe not !!
I could do more searching/shopping for different kinds I'm sure but something else just always seemed more important... I'm sure we all know how that goes :icon_rolleyes:
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on February 23, 2016, 02:28:01 PM
The extra clutter and the chunky grips are actually both of the main reasons that I was like ehhh maybe not !!
I could do more searching/shopping for different kinds I'm sure but something else just always seemed more important... I'm sure we all know how that goes :icon_rolleyes:
they were a bit of an impulse buy if I'm honest haha hadn't taken into consideration all the clutter. i'll snap a pic of the setup later on for you before i hopefully get round to pulling them off.
it all just depends on what you're wanting to get out of the bike and wether or not its already doing it for you but if temps are an issue then heated gloves that you only use on the cold days could be a solution. saying that if your using summer gloves when its chilly. stepping up to thick winter gloves makes a considerable difference.
personally what really changed the bike for the better was changing the clipon bars we got in the uk to regular 7/8, putting heavier oil in the forks and preload spacers. think that and the braided lines just transformed the bike into something much more competent than a mooshy unresponsive commuter.
after that the jetting, k&n filter, exhaust, ignition advancing, gearing were really just chasing a bit more entertainment and oomph out of the little thing. i reckon if you can do it on the cheap then its very worthwhile as the bike responds well to it.
loads of other wee things I've done but the above really did transform the gs into something it was never meant to be.
shot of the new pegs yet to be modded & something interesting :icon_lol:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1663/25006610450_5b72a6f827_c.jpg)
i thought they are mk1 bandit 1200 rear pegs but I'm not sure now, checked a pair on line for comparison and the mount wasn't a match so i shall endeavour to find out.
so atlas the little bit of fun i was scheming up! :icon_mrgreen: 44t (+5t) sprocket coupled with my pre-existing 14t (-2t) on the front :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: hahaha just a little bit of fun.
if you want to see what kind of changes it would make check gearingcommander.com << excellent resource << and no the bike isn't going to do 70mph flat out like everyone would expect ;) it should roughly do 106mph real world speed not the wildly inaccurate speedometer reading you take for granted.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1617/25209091831_1ac282aa91_c.jpg)
annnnnd... the standard length 110 chain isn't long enough... oh balls. :icon_rolleyes: i had accounted for the change in axle position being relatively minimum but forgot to take into consideration the added diameter of the sprocket itself. because I'm clever like that.
so using : https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/chainlength.html calculator and information from the gs wiki and obviously changing sprocket sizes to match
''
Teeth On First Sprocket 16
Teeth On Second Sprocket 39
Chain Pitch In Inches 0.625
Centre Distance (inches) 25.5
''
worked out i need 111.15 links and because you always round up and to an even number 112 link chain.
works out to be 69.47'' in length.
//
so I'm put in a position where i'll have to replace the chain if i want to run the gearing and then I'm as well off replacing the front sprocket as well, so much for some cheap fun.
yes you should always change sprockets and chain at the same time if its wear rate is going to be an issue to you but my set had covered next to nothing. that and the bike doesn't do massive miles so its the lesser miles out of its lifespan really isn't an issue for me. i would never do this with an old well worn set.
//
bit annoying but its not the end of the world, just going to have to get a chain and possibly a new front sprocket, means I've got a low mileage set to sell or to keep as spares :thumb: its cheap enough but still unanticipated cost.
:cheers: :thumb: :cool:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1623/25364819962_902d43efc9_c.jpg)
nabbed an almost new tsubaki racing - pro 520 for a third of the cost of a new one. its done 100 odd miles on a 2014 zx6. for anyone who hasn't heard of tsubaki... they are the bee's knees :thumb: 38kn and rated for 200bhp on their 520 pitch. its a race chain, spec wise its not too dissimilar from the likes of DID etc's race chains.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1654/24856549853_fdd4c82424_c.jpg)
so I'm hoping its not a specific joining link required for the chain as i'll have to track one down, order it up and wait an age before i can fit it but I've got this DID 520 for the vx2 sitting, hope its going to be the right size. pin diameters can vary between chain to chain so who knows.
//
been thinking about my plans for a swingarm swap as well. i may still do it but the whole point was that i was going to have a cbr f3 swinger sitting spare and that might not be the case anymore so I'm thinking about putting a bandit 6 wheel on the back as a cost effective way of getting a 160 rear and better tyre choice. I'm not really one for massive tyres, the gs certainly won't benefit from anything larger than a 160, it just doesn't have the power to justify it and its not worth losing the bikes flickibility over looks is it. I've got other priorities with the bikes at the moment so this won't be in the immediate future. certainly not till the cbr is back on the road anyway.
Nice work dude, a lot of problem solving being done :P interested to see how the pegs work out as I'm currently rebuilding my GS and the pegs are a bit... clunky...
Sooo the vacuum crap, am I correct in believing that if I pull off the frame petcock, replace it with inline and plug any and all vacuum ports on the carbs i'll be vacuum free? All this vacuum stuff is just something else to go wrong!
Out of curiosity, who do you insure with? I'm using Bennett's, but they wanted an extra £500.00 (!?!?!?!) to insure me with an after market exhaust from their original reasonable price of £200ish.
Cheers.
Quote from: baronduff on March 10, 2016, 08:56:34 AM
Nice work dude, a lot of problem solving being done :P interested to see how the pegs work out as I'm currently rebuilding my GS and the pegs are a bit... clunky...
Sooo the vacuum crap, am I correct in believing that if I pull off the frame petcock, replace it with inline and plug any and all vacuum ports on the carbs i'll be vacuum free? All this vacuum stuff is just something else to go wrong!
Out of curiosity, who do you insure with? I'm using Bennett's, but they wanted an extra £500.00 (!?!?!?!) to insure me with an after market exhaust from their original reasonable price of £200ish.
Cheers.
thanks man :thumb: thinking you're thoroughly prepared, pulling things apart, realising you don't have what you need so putting it back together to repeat another day hahaha happens far too often man. atleast the gs is easy to work on.
yeah you have a couple of options for it but you can remove the frame mounted secondary petcock and block up the vacuum pipe/s without any bother. so option 1. i replaced the petcock on the tank which allows me to just run the one fuel line from the tank to the carbs but option 2. if you stick with the standard under tank one you'll have to put a t-junction in to take the original main/res lines into one before running it to the carbs. if that makes sense. :icon_lol:
if you're running a pre 01' gs id recommend upgrading the system as they are definitely prone to issues but if its post 01' you're just creating more work for yourself as they aren't as prone to the fuel starving issue. the whole vacuum system is actually really clever, I'm quite a fan of it and plenty of bikes run it without having any issues. id previously upgraded to the post 01' petcock and ran problem free for a long time, my main reason for upgrading the system once again was ditching a bit of weight and clutter but really if its still working its all good and when it finally starts starving you switch it to prime and it runs fine.
another thing to note is that should you accidentally leave the fuel tap on without the vacuum system and your float sticks or the seals under the needle seat go your crank case is going to get a petrol enema. and trust me when it gets hot in there things go bang! :icon_lol: all you're really doing is swapping a potential problem for another.
//
as for the pegs, these bandit ones I've got aren't going to be straight forward but the gsxr pegs i was running before just needed a wee bit of grinding, downside being that getting anything to work on a spring return is going to be hell without swapping rearsets it seems so i just had mine safety wired down. been juggling other projects around so I've just not had the free time to do anything with the gs other than run it about.
//
insurance, theres so many variables but i shop around quite a bit and MCE have been the best prices for me for the last 3 years, they don't charge for modifications but should you need to claim they also don't cover the cost of mods so it boils down to where your priority stands with that. when i declare mods from what would be for example £150 TPFT on my gsxr11 in stock trim it becomes 5-6-£700+ with other companies... its just absurd so in that regard i think mce has my corner of the market. heres hoping i never have to claim haha
yeah i was 105 for my modded cbr600 f3 + 70 i think to add a thunderace streetfighter and then when i binned the fighter it was 40 to switch the insurance from it to the gsxr11. i do love multi bike policies :thumb:
//
just whilst i remember, last time i was out tweaking the mix i managed to almost cure the hesitation by raising the needle two steps then taking the mix screw back in to 2 & 3/4 or 3, i can't actually remember now. still needs a spot of tweaking but every time i get the chance to open them i get it slightly better. trial and error.
also noticed that the rhs plug is fouling. reckon its weak spark or possibly at a push float height or needle seat related as I've had an issue there before, yet to prove anything wrong though. its not oily so that rules out valves. compression is acceptable so that rules out head gasket and rings. anyway she's still running damn fine. but yeah black and sooty so fuel mix on one side me thinks.
thanks man :thumb: thinking you're thoroughly prepared, pulling things apart, realising you don't have what you need so putting it back together to repeat another day hahaha happens far too often man. atleast the gs is easy to work on.
yeah you have a couple of options for it but you can remove the frame mounted secondary petcock and block up the vacuum pipe/s without any bother. so option 1. i replaced the petcock on the tank which allows me to just run the one fuel line from the tank to the carbs but option 2. if you stick with the standard under tank one you'll have to put a t-junction in to take the original main/res lines into one before running it to the carbs. if that makes sense. :icon_lol:
if you're running a pre 01' gs id recommend upgrading the system as they are definitely prone to issues but if its post 01' you're just creating more work for yourself as they aren't as prone to the fuel starving issue. the whole vacuum system is actually really clever, I'm quite a fan of it and plenty of bikes run it without having any issues. id previously upgraded to the post 01' petcock and ran problem free for a long time, my main reason for doing this was ditching a bit of weight and clutter but really if its still working its all good and when it finally starts starving you switch it to prime and it runs fine.
another thing to note is that should you accidentally leave the fuel tap on without the vacuum system and your float sticks or the seals under the needle seat go your crank case is going to get a petrol enema. and trust me when it gets hot in there things go bang! :icon_lol: all you're really doing is swapping a potential problem for another.
//
as for the pegs, these bandit ones I've got aren't going to be straight forward but the gsxr pegs i was running before just needed a wee bit of grinding, downside being that getting anything to work on a spring return is going to be hell without swapping rearsets it seems so i just had mine safety wired down. been juggling other projects around so I've just not had the free time to do anything with the gs other than run it about.
//
insurance, theres so many variables but i shop around quite a bit and MCE have been the best prices for me for the last 3 years, they don't charge for modifications but should you need to claim they also don't cover the cost of mods so it boils down to where your priority stands with that. when i declare mods from what would be for example £150 TPFT on my gsxr11 in stock trim it becomes 5-6-£700+ with other companies... its just absurd so in that regard i think mce has my corner of the market. heres hoping i never have to claim haha
yeah i was 105 for my modded cbr600 f3 + 70 i think to add a thunderace streetfighter and then when i binned the fighter it was 40 to switch the insurance from it to the gsxr11. i do love multi bike policies :thumb:
//
[/quote]
Yea I'm slowly realising that I took a LOT of junk photos when I pulled everything apart and unfortunately, my mental notes appear to be a bit of a mess, don't think they'll be much use, so the things I don't have will undoubtedly be things I did have originally...
I was mostly looking to just simplify the bike to be honest, I just seem to have a nest of bloody vacuum lines on the carbs that just get in the way when working on them, T-junction seems to be a good idea. It's an 08 so it's not really fuel starvation that I'm worried about, next time I lift the tank, I want just wan't to turn a valve and pull off one fuel line! That's awesome about the petcock, good find, was contemplating a Pingel until I found out the price!
Maybe I'll leave the pegs then, I've already bitten off far more than I can chew, have spent a ton on tools and powdercoating!
MCE are definitely once to look into then. I know it's insanely varied, not so fussed on having mods covered tbh, exhaust can always be polished back up and might get lucky with fork springs etc surviving. Wow that's really reasonable, I need more bikes!
Yea I'm slowly realising that I took a LOT of junk photos when I pulled everything apart and unfortunately, my mental notes appear to be a bit of a mess, don't think they'll be much use, so the things I don't have will undoubtedly be things I did have originally...
I was mostly looking to just simplify the bike to be honest, I just seem to have a nest of bloody vacuum lines on the carbs that just get in the way when working on them, T-junction seems to be a good idea. It's an 08 so it's not really fuel starvation that I'm worried about, next time I lift the tank, I want just wan't to turn a valve and pull off one fuel line! That's awesome about the petcock, good find, was contemplating a Pingel until I found out the price!
Maybe I'll leave the pegs then, I've already bitten off far more than I can chew, have spent a ton on tools and powdercoating!
MCE are definitely once to look into then. I know it's insanely varied, not so fussed on having mods covered tbh, exhaust can always be polished back up and might get lucky with fork springs etc surviving. Wow that's really reasonable, I need more bikes!
[/quote]
yep I've been there hahaha looking back over photos like why the feck did i take that? especially when rewiring from scratch :confused: but yeah the gs is forgiving when learning how to work on a bike.
can't say I'm too familiar with the later models (only real difference being carbs i think), isn't there only one vacuum line going to the secondary petcock? most of the hoses should be just breathers, overflow or fuel.
always hated trying to squeeze the two fuel lines onto the tank haha yet again part of the reason I've got my setup the way it is. yeah I've looked at pingel taps as well but daaaaaamn not at that cost! well what i can say is that most jap bikes undertank petcocks seem to share the same spacing in terms of bolts so there is always the option of finding a tap with a good lever on it and using that. my thunderace lever is tiny and although you can access it with the tank on, its very difficult otherwise i wouldn't have an inline tap. once again you're doing away with the reserve function which makes life entertaining at times. i had contemplated using the sv650's undertank vacuum petcock as just the main supply, plug the vacuum lines in and boom no worries just jump on it and go but should it fail you have no means of just turning the fuel on via prime. so yeahhh I'm still working on ideas for further simplifying it down to just the petcock.
must say the gs looks much, much better with tidier pegs but id stick to getting one job done at a time else you'll end up in a mess chasing your own tail about. save doing the pegs for another day :thumb: I've got a set of cbr rearsets that are just sitting from when i got aftermarket ones for it so i may end up modding them to fit the gs.
and hey the good thing about having one bike is that you only have one bike to fix :icon_lol: multiple project bikes is a difficult one to juggle. I've got parts everywhere, 3 bikes in different states of build coupled with very limited time and finance... :icon_rolleyes: hopefully this summer i'll have the option of bikes to jump on though.
if you're not fussed about declaring mods then probably best go with whoever winds up being cheapest but otherwise definitely look at mce even if they are a bit dearer. i could get a policy about £70 cheaper elsewhere but when your bikes obviously not a stocker and things need declared no one can touch mce for prices unfortunately. ohhhh the joys of being young...(ish) :icon_lol:
hows your bike coming along anyway? any (decent :icon_lol:) pics or that?
Yea those wiring schematics make zero sense to me so I bet that's a nightmare! To be honest I'm struggling to remember where everything is grounded, let alone what every bloody wire does!
Well I seem to have a few vacuum lines running all the way around the carbs, likely due to the emissions crap on later bikes, I'll probably just leave it, I'll be relieved to finish it to be honest has taken far longer than planned.
That's good to know, don't seem to have found much talk on the petcocks to be honest, especially surprising given how useless the tank one is, especially in an emergency. Got a funny feeling though the later bikes are 33mm spacing, will have to measure up.
Yea bloody horrible squeezing the lines in there, I'm also completely at removing fuel lines anyway and like to tear them which helps!
Yea like you say, future project when I know everything else on the bike is good!
Rebuild is coming along OK, its really nothing exciting, was just in an awkward position where bike was so crusty it was worth nothing, so decided to have it coated and clean and replace everything, was making me really miserable seeing brown patches all over. Starting to really regret it now that I've spent about 2/3rds the bikes worth on mods, powdercoat and parts! Guys who coated the bike are jackasses so now i have to tap all the threads and clean bearing surfaces... Joy... Won't hi jack your thread though, if I end up with any worthwhile pictures I'll post them up!
Quote from: baronduff on March 13, 2016, 02:04:27 PM
Yea those wiring schematics make zero sense to me so I bet that's a nightmare! To be honest I'm struggling to remember where everything is grounded, let alone what every bloody wire does!
I feel your pain, man. I spent a full day mapping the wires out and listing everything in list format. (I can scan and email it all to you if you want)
I've found everything black with a white stripe is "ground" or going "going to ground"
Hope that helps.
Sorry if its a hijack. . .
Black and white stripes, nice one. As far as I'm aware, where you ground doesn't make any difference right? As long as its on the frame and there's no paint underneath?
I may well be in touch for that info, hopefully everything will start to make sense when I put it back in, luckily it seems everything has a different style plug on the harness, so with bog standard setup I shouldn't be able to go too far wrong... But this is me...
Yea, sorry Iamhiding for the thread jack!
The grounds go to the negative terminal on the battery. You could ground through the frame if you wanted, provided that you also run a wire from the frame to the negative terminal.
Thanks Lucas, I could've monumentally screwed up there, no wonder I couldn't remember where the grounds ran to on the frame!
nah fire on guys :thumb: can't say I'm too familiar with the gs's schematics, I've never really had to problem solve with them. spent 100 hours + on just the physical work involved on wiring the cbr though, never mind everything else :cookoo: :cookoo: :cookoo: needless to say I'm a dab hand with electrics nowadays, not so much on FI bikes though :confused:
//
new link for that chain turned up today so hoping to get the gearing sorted tomorrow :D couple of other things to see to as well.
wee update :D
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1528/25886068635_69dc25267e_c.jpg)
nipped the old master link down from the tsubaki with ye ol grinder.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1679/25257352203_0676543b59_c.jpg)
couple of steel plates and a ball ended hammer is the best way I've found to rivet a link without a chain tool, takes no time at all :thumb: link took a bit of a beating from me being careless but its not going to effect its performance.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1499/25765300032_e4fbd6216e_c.jpg)
slight size difference between the 39t and 44t, massive weight difference :icon_lol: the renthal really does weigh nothing in comparison.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1450/25886048615_ed664785d1_c.jpg)
quick test ride of the -2/+5 (14/44) & 520x112 setup... WAW! :o :o :o the gs isn't meant to pull like that, can lift the front wheel in 4th doing 40 with a pop of the clutch haha good fun :icon_twisted: :angel: not enough oomph to keep it up but it lifts.
honestly its not that ridiculous a setup gearing-wise as you would expect. yep its a bit buzzy, yep i wouldn't want to do massive motorway or dual carriageway miles but for squirting about town and ragging it around country roads... W A W! had an accurate 98mph out of it at 10thou rpm, should do 106 at redline. seriously good fun on such a little bike.
//
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1477/25257366233_509c5644e1_c.jpg)
now for the pegs, the slimmer ones are aftermarket rear gsxr 6 ones with an elongated hole (giggidy), honestly can't remember which gen, possibly srad and the larger ones I've got to replace the broken set aren't from the bandit, the guy who gave me them has no idea what there from, there just from his spares box so if you recognise them give me a shout and let me know.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1583/25791089191_a71f1d4373_c.jpg)
obviously the hole was never going to line up.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1513/25791122731_734cdb9591_c.jpg)
marked it through the hole previously pictured.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1534/25765277112_e979f1ce3a_c.jpg)
drilled a pilot hole then drilled it out to 6.5mm which is slightly bigger then the 6mm pivot that goes through to attach it so that it allows for a little jiggle room to get it on. once in place i used a couple of washers to close down the slight slight gap and reduce movement. these are completely fixed in place and do not lift and spring back, if the bike is dropped then these are likely to snap.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1469/25253331834_0e8b38433f_c.jpg)
definitely not the best picture of them on but you get the point :thumb: massive improvement over the gsxr pegs i had before and even a bigger improvement from the chunky stock rubber covered beasts. its one of the little things that just tidies up the old gs tenfold over stock i reckon.
//
now thats all the good stuff but i found something that i really don't like when doing the chain. theres a significant amount of backward/forward play between the counter sprocket (front) and the spline of the driveshaft... not just the usual jiggle you get with the spline/clip setup. so yeah, thats not good is it. it'll be fine for a while yet but I'm going to have to look at either braking the engine right down to replace the driveshaft assuming go can get a good or new one and rebuild it or find a new engine to fire in if it proves to be more cost effective be it another gs motor or something a little more interesting. its a perfectly good engine with just a spot over 22thou miles on the clock so its probably justifiable to rebuild it, that and like I've probably said before the gs's parallel twin is one of the things i love about the bike, awesome sound so i might look at going for a single thumper over an inline 4 swap if it were to come to that but even so I've got no idea what i'll end up doing down the line at this point. really kinda sucks but its not an end to it. :icon_rolleyes:
Dude that sucks about the driveshaft! Chain riveting is way better than the last attempt I made and I had a funny little tool to do it too. Pegs looking good, definitely need to mod mine.
Quote from: baronduff on March 25, 2016, 04:59:15 AM
Dude that sucks about the driveshaft! Chain riveting is way better than the last attempt I made and I had a funny little tool to do it too. Pegs looking good, definitely need to mod mine.
yeah its definitely not ideal with the driveshaft/countershaft or whatever its called again haha it might even just be the old sprocket on it thats moving about but its not actually that old, maybe 2500-3500 miles which isn't all that much, can but try before bodging it or tearing the engine down. yeah rivet links never seem to come out looking good do they haha not without a proper rivet tool anyway.
so after putting about 500miles or so on the gearing I've come to the conclusion that yes its very entertaining in the slow stuff and it pulls like hell (for a 4/ 500 twin) up to 70 but cruising at 70-80 is intolerable never mind ringing its neck out at the top of 6th. it still has the same top speed as my previous gearing (14/39) 102mph before it just doesn't want to give any more except you're really tickling redline on the 14/44 to keep it there which isn't great in terms of longevity of the engine is it.
so I've been thinking about going up 1 tooth on the front to 15t just to make it a bit more tolerable and hopefully find a middle ground whenever i get round to it. can't actually find a renthal 14t for the gs anymore but i know it shares the same part with several things like gsxrs (can't remember which models off the top of my head) but that makes it easy to find a 14t should you be looking for one.
must say the -2t (14t) front i was running before really wasn't all that extreme, well certainly not as much as people made it out to be, it was actually a really well suited gearing to the bike. either way the whole things been a fun experiment and a good laugh.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1470/24380067334_2419173222_c.jpg)[/url]
raised the needle down one clip to its highest setting, massive improvement midrange.
Would it be correct to say that with this type of needle there is no need to install the often suggested 1-2 #4 washers?
Quote from: TheGreenWeenie on April 01, 2016, 05:33:57 AM
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1470/24380067334_2419173222_c.jpg)[/url]
raised the needle down one clip to its highest setting, massive improvement midrange.
Would it be correct to say that with this type of needle there is no need to install the often suggested 1-2 #4 washers?
No need for washers with the clip style dude. Consider 1 washer to be 1 clip movement. UK spec carbs got the clipped needles as did some euro countries but as far as I'm aware the the non clip type is predominantly a US thing.
Saying that my 11 has clipped needles but also came with a washer fitted from the factory but yeah you would only "need" a washer on a clipped needle if you wanted to lift it even higher for adjustment but it's unlikely you'll need to.
I feel lucky then. i got the clip type in the US. So would stock setting be the very top rung? IIRC mine were set to the second clip down. Thanks for the info though. love following the build thread by the way.
Quote from: TheGreenWeenie on April 01, 2016, 06:28:46 PM
I feel lucky then. i got the clip type in the US. So would stock setting be the very top rung? IIRC mine were set to the second clip down. Thanks for the info though. love following the build thread by the way.
it could be that the early us ones didn't get it or its the cali spec ones that don't have it or something like that, I'm just making presumptions so don't hold me to it haha but someone on here will know :thumb:
honestly couldn't tell you, i bikes first jetting was over 2 years ago, maybe 3 lolz but if you don't have a workshop manual to check you can get a free pdf manual on carlsalter.com // typically the manual will say something like position 1 or 3 or whatever and you count the clips from the top so for example in that pic mines is on position 5.
oh and thanks dude :oops: :D it really is just a bit of honest, zero fecks given, cheap fun. have to see what happens with the driveshaft yet to see what I'm going got have to do with the engine but I've still got some pretty substantial plans for the bike when i get the others back on the road and I'm still tearing around the roads using it as the current daily.
Haha. given zero fecks means having more fun usually. I picked up this GS from a friend for free. (it wasn't running of course). and now it is,yay! but its requiring some serious tuning. Post like yours are helping me more than you'd ever imagine. I told my wife I was gonna get this up and operational for her and teach her to ride. but the more $$ i spend, the more emotionally attached i'm becoming. waiting on this Delkevic pipe to come in so I can hopefully tune the carbs properly for it.
Big thanks for the info on the manual btw. heading over to get that right now :bowdown:
Quote from: TheGreenWeenie on April 02, 2016, 05:36:22 PM
Haha. given zero fecks means having more fun usually. I picked up this GS from a friend for free. (it wasn't running of course). and now it is,yay! but its requiring some serious tuning. Post like yours are helping me more than you'd ever imagine. I told my wife I was gonna get this up and operational for her and teach her to ride. but the more $$ i spend, the more emotionally attached i'm becoming. waiting on this Delkevic pipe to come in so I can hopefully tune the carbs properly for it.
Big thanks for the info on the manual btw. heading over to get that right now :bowdown:
excuse the late reply haha I've got more projects than hands at the moment. honestly thats really cool to hear :oops: :D as motivational speakery as it sounds I'm just trying to give back to the community that got me going with modding bikes, taught me some of the mechanical details and kept me interested with these kinds of builds/posts, i know exactly where you're coming from and that kind of feedback just confirms that its getting somewhere :kiss3:
absolutely the perfect bike for teaching someone, its not twitchy like the 125s etc, or thats what i found anyway. i hear what you mean man, so much emotional investment the more you work on or build something lolz I'm actually really bad for not parting with bikes. I've currently got 3 and the half of the one that tried to kill me haha. bike hoarder :icon_rolleyes:
Going to start getting some more bits together for the build in the next few weeks, back wheel/spacers machined up shortly hopefully. Just need to clear my feet financially. Going to be maaaaaaaad when she's done :icon_mrgreen: hopefully get the new front end ready in time for the 1100 coming off the road in October for Tattie season and then winter shortly after.
Have to source appropriate yokes/triples, callipers, disks and a front wheel for the gsxr 750 WP forks I've got sitting. Had hoped to use the blue dot callipers from the old exup I had but the bolt spacing is different, may end up getting brackets made but I'd like to have something to just bolt on with zero fuss. Just have to see how it all plays out but Suzuki are known for making parts bin bikes which will play in my favour :thumb:
bikes been parked up for an age now with a sticky front master cylinder, just havent had the time to deal with it so i figured i should probably get it riding again. first time i've ever done a master actually and that circlip is a bastard without the right pliers :icon_rolleyes: you know how youve thought about getting a set of circlip pliers about 100 times and never done it? yeah seriously go buy a set or 2 or 3 even haha handy to have. it makes a 5 minute job take 10x as long without them :icon_rolleyes:
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7699/27770966623_78e9040be4_c.jpg)
yeah so old just pulling the old piston and seals out the cbr master.
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8804/27770207514_137a0eef2d_c.jpg)
fresh seals and spring ready to go in.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8861/28188442080_45953a4e05_c.jpg)
fired back together and taken out for a victory shralp.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8797/28366578632_14fde75c2d_c.jpg)
so, i figured out what caused the master to fail as well... funny noob mistake, should really know better :oops: last august or something someone moved things around and i ended up using gear oil in the brake as it was an identical bottle and similar coloured fluid. i can remember doing it but i cant remember if i flushed it out. anyway gear oil has some rubber conditioning stuff in it i think that reacts with rubber, it had made the cap diaphragm swell so that it was unusable and I'm guessing it made the seals swell causing the piston to stick in the master, makes sense anyway. so im expecting the calliper seals to start sticking sometime soon :icon_rolleyes: had to use instant gasket to seal up the reservoir cap as a short term fix, obviously leaving the air gap clear. far from ideal but its functional :icon_lol: i'm an idiot i know but im glad it wasnt on the 11 with the 6 pot callipers :o expensive one to sort.
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8766/27855102434_cefcf8dcfd_c.jpg)
so... im making some effort to get the substance of the project underway :icon_mrgreen: 160 on a suitable 4.5'' rim :icon_mrgreen: rather than mushrooming anything onto the 3.5'' (i think) gs rim. i run a 150 on the gs at the moment and ive had it to the edge of usable tyre to the point it actually gives way :o but theres still a couple of mm of chicken strip. in terms of flickibility i dont feel like i lost anything jumping to 150 from the 130, went up to 120 on the front at the same time and its still very nimble but it was less prone to a bit of front end shiking in the higher speed sweepers. im not really one for the big tyre thing, typically i run whats best for the bike but tyre choice is pathetic when you run under 160. on the plus side the apex ratio of the tyre will actually alter the gearing so that i get an extra 2mpg out of my silly gearing, ''should'' do gps accurate 106. im not chasing chicken strips, im not doing it for looks although it will look a bit more purposeful, its so i can run decent tyres. kind of funny, i'll be running a 150 knobbly on it for a while anyway but atleast it will hold its proper profile.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8148/28393123921_042303b706_c.jpg)
1st gen sv650 wheel, shares the same 17mm axle, think it uses the same spacers as well but i cant remember off the top of my head but i checked parts numbers once upon a time. pirelli diablo on it at the moment, slight squaring but loads of miles in it. brake disc is alright but all in all its not what was advertised but its cleaned up quite well.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8848/27855102624_e2e54b95b1_c.jpg)
gen1 sv650 brake hanger/bracket. slightly different height to the gs one but should be the same width.
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8670/27855113934_c02a714397_c.jpg)
mentioned these a couple of times but yeah the gsxr 750 wp USD forks ive got sitting, they were rebuild by some irish race team for their bike but unused, or so the story goes so im not sure if they've been resprung or what the deal is with them but i got them for free. at a glance they are about 5mm shorter than the gs forks axle centre to top cap but i havent properly measured them. i run it with the forks about 20mm through anyway so length wont be an issue at all.
so at the moment i need to go see about getting some sprocket spacers made up, ive got a gsxr 1100 wp front wheel on its way which should be identical to the 750 one i need, speedo drive, axle/spacers, a mudgaurd or ill make something up, need to find disks and yokes. heres hoping i get away with not needing to press stems out etc but if so then its no worries as i have access to presses. oh and callipers dependant on what i can do with what ive got lying around.
as for the sv650 wheel, theres a bit of info online about the swap (in german / broken english) if you look hard enough, it seems to be the most logical way of running bigger rubber with little effort but its not exactly a bolt of part but i'll do a wee write up for anyone interested.
but yeah i want to try the bigger rubber with road tyres before i throw the knobblies on for winter just to gauge the difference.
and so the saga begins. slow as f%$k, loud, rough and ready, zero fucks given. love it.
just found this http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?170903-GS500-front-sprocket-almost-killed-me-last-night
something i've been thinking about and perhaps its not as sophisticated as i had planned but the same principle, he's welded a bolt onto the countershaft so he can bolt down the front sprocket. i had planned on drilling and tapping into the shaft so i could get a spacer made up i could bolt onto the shaft. similar idea but a lot less work. just have no idea why suzuki thought it was an acceptable way to mount a sprocket.
so ive had to reroute the fuel line. instead of the std petcocks outlets travelling straight down this one is side exit. originally i had it facing forward so that i could (just) access the lever without removing the tank in case of emergency. with it facing forward at 90' its quite an extreme angle and puts strain on the line when theres weight on the line, ie my inline petcock, this caused it to split near the tank on 2 occasions, the first i caught it as it happened but the second i lost 2/3 of a tank overnight :icon_rolleyes: :mad: :icon_eek: not ideal. tried a few things and nothing was quite right so i'm, waiting to get my hands on another petcock to try but in the meantime ive done this.
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8729/28794884782_d22890acf4_c.jpg)
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8463/28282228114_c093bba603_c.jpg)
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8132/28868412796_80dc84ceb7_c.jpg)
damn the bikes needing a good teardown and clean! hopefully be painting the next time it gets stripped right down. :thumb: but thats right down low on the priorities list.
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8608/28339461663_e119d5569d_c.jpg)
front gsxr 1100 wp wheel ready to go. decent 120/70 pilot power on it as well.
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7655/28337028924_42734b677c_c.jpg)
forks, spindle, speedo drive and wheel spacer all sitting ready.
hopefully mocking up some calliper brackets this weekend to fit the blue spots :icon_twisted: and i've just paid for a set of yokes/triples :D things are well on their way. just need to source disks, disk bolts and make brackets now.
got my friend at the machine shop knocking some sprocket spacers for the sv wheel as we speak, so all going well the 160 will be getting fitted next weekend.
also the story about the forks being race prepped might actually hold true, they're significantly firmer than my gsxr11 forks of the same gen and the preload is wound right out. it could turn out to be absolute overkill on the gs but i'll just have to wait and see what their static sag is like under weight.
lots of good things happening and its all coming together :D
I think a 160 on a bike this power and weight is a bit big ( a bit).
And a ZR tyre isn't going to heat up to a decent operating temperature either. The bike just doesn't go fast enough.
You may want to look elsewhere than the tyre ,for the letting go feeling, unless the tyre is getting old. Check the date stamped on the tyre.
Std tyre is definitely too small, but a proper profile 140 or 150 should be about right. Any bigger and you won't get enough tyre deformation and temperature. You will also have to mod both the sprocket/chain run and the brake anchor arm ( though you have to mod the arm even for a 150, which is what I did). A 150 will pull into a higher profile ( and correspondingly more sidewall angle) on the std rim. But the 4.5 rim would do the opposite.
Anyway I look forward to your comments when you get her going. Love the front end.
Quote from: gregjet on August 13, 2016, 02:06:43 PM
I think a 160 on a bike this power and weight is a bit big ( a bit).
And a ZR tyre isn't going to heat up to a decent operating temperature either. The bike just doesn't go fast enough.
You may want to look elsewhere than the tyre ,for the letting go feeling, unless the tyre is getting old. Check the date stamped on the tyre.
Std tyre is definitely too small, but a proper profile 140 or 150 should be about right. Any bigger and you won't get enough tyre deformation and temperature. You will also have to mod both the sprocket/chain run and the brake anchor arm ( though you have to mod the arm even for a 150, which is what I did). A 150 will pull into a higher profile ( and correspondingly more sidewall angle) on the std rim. But the 4.5 rim would do the opposite.
Anyway I look forward to your comments when you get her going. Love the front end.
Quote from: iamhiding on August 13, 2016, 05:01:25 PM
Quote from: gregjet on August 13, 2016, 02:06:43 PM
I think a 160 on a bike this power and weight is a bit big ( a bit).
And a ZR tyre isn't going to heat up to a decent operating temperature either. The bike just doesn't go fast enough.
You may want to look elsewhere than the tyre ,for the letting go feeling, unless the tyre is getting old. Check the date stamped on the tyre.
Std tyre is definitely too small, but a proper profile 140 or 150 should be about right. Any bigger and you won't get enough tyre deformation and temperature. You will also have to mod both the sprocket/chain run and the brake anchor arm ( though you have to mod the arm even for a 150, which is what I did). A 150 will pull into a higher profile ( and correspondingly more sidewall angle) on the std rim. But the 4.5 rim would do the opposite.
Anyway I look forward to your comments when you get her going. Love the front end.
theres a whole reply missing, god knows where its gone, long story short you're right, you have a point but it's completley negligible. :icon_rolleyes: :icon_lol:
sprocket spacers made up out of stainless :D
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7499/29075335735_dd25251214_c.jpg)
yokes turned up as well
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8270/28970210312_839e1887e7_c.jpg)
been running the sv wheel for about a week or two now with a misaligned chain as theres an issue that i'll later explain with the front alignment, bike feels much more planted i have very little faith in the mushroomed 120 front tyre anymore but i'll soon have that sorted. anyway yeah the 160 is much more tyre than the gs needs but thats not a bad thing and it feels good on the bike. haven't actually taken any pics of it on, only a couple of build pics which i'll piece together once i properly resolve the front sprocket offset, need to go see the welder. like i said previously in a comment which disappeared :dunno_black: there will be a fairly thorough write up and explanation.
more parts! :D
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8332/29390026335_d60f372596_c.jpg)
set of wavey 310mm gsxr 1100/750 disks.
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8125/28768569213_55d977bb2c_c.jpg)
new stainless banjo bolts, using 54mm p-clips for the headlight brackets, also got some titanium disk bolts (cheaper than the std items) which i'll put on my 11 and use the cruddy old bolts for the gs :thumb: win win
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8221/28768937913_b203bde959_c.jpg)
so i was test fitting the blue spots on my 11 for making up brackets on the matching 750 forks ill be using on the gs and although i could easily enough make brackets, i'm not overly happy with the shape i'd have to use to make it it work.
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8754/29282166462_9b0f298477_c.jpg)
the wp 11/750 forks have this tapered edge running in between the two mounting points so i would need to make two tabs which forked either side of that edge rather than having a flat plate run parallel to the fork. by all means it would probably be strong enough but i'm not all that confident in the way id be making it fit rather than making it strong if you get me. so the blue spots are off the cards unfortunately :cry:
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8056/29355917706_b352dab749_c.jpg)
i dislike the the 6-pots so its with much displeasure i present these 90mm nissins... but they are recently refurbished, with almost new pads and i got them for a very fair price so i cant argue with that.
the 6 pots don't offer as much hydraulic advantage on their stock master cylinder so they aren't as 'bitey' as their 4pot counterpart and the 6's offer a little more lever modulation. the 4 pots are known to boil on track and fade but the 6's are meant to be much better in that regard. not that this will be an issue on the gs, these brakes are absolute overkill for the bike.
with the 6's you're much more likely to encounter a sticky piston as... well you have more pistons... :icon_rolleyes: and for this reason i dislike them, that and on the road id rather have 'bitey'er' brakes than brakes less prone to fade. seal kits are more pricey when they need done and well this is an all weather bike so the brakes will need very regular attention.
i could use a smaller master cyl to bring a bit more life into the 6pots but theres no point on the gs really. the gs shares the same 5/8 master as the gsxr wp's so i dont need to faff about with changing that.
the 90mm tokicos get used on a pile of old suzukis, gsxr 1100/750, bandit 12s, rf9s i believe, tl1000, busa and a few others not to mention zx6r, zx9r and although they arent the same calipers the old daytona 955 shares the same 90mm spacing so in terms of finding compatible parts, there isn't a problem.
//
all the parts are sitting, just need to figure out what i'm doing with the front mudguard, then test fit and swap the stems across. possibly this weekend if i have the time. :D lots of progress being made in the background in between juggling the other projects.
oh and i need to drill the top yoke for fitting the bar clamps, easy enough though :D
swapped the ti bolts with the cruddy old 11 ones
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8287/28784285663_837c4f2e6c_c.jpg)
cleaned em' up
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7468/28781723274_b2f9703f98_c.jpg)
drilled a rake of holes in a box to hold them
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8023/28781715024_23e9c2f86b_c.jpg)
and gave them a quick lick of paint. :thumb: wouldnt have bothered but they had zero zinc coating left and disk bolts are known for being a pain in the ass so for the sake of 10 minutes i've got a tidy and protected set of bolts. win win :thumb: :cool:
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8459/29371325116_c282171b08_c.jpg)
looking good fitted, shame about the paint on the wheel itself
pulled the callipers apart yesterday for a clean, something i do with all new brakes, better being safe and it saves the hassle of bleeding them in to find sticky pistons.
bit of a build up under the seals, so much for 'recently refurbed'. quite surprised as to how bad they were with how tidy they look on the outside, certainly recent powdercoat and pads :icon_rolleyes:
pulled the pistons with a puller, brass wheeled the crap off them, used a fine 240 scotchbright wheel to flatten them out then polished to a high finish with autosol on a wheel. seal areas got brass dremel wheeled out and then a 90' pick to get right into the bits that you just don't see. seals weren't great but were salvageable, everything greased up with the good stuff and slipped back together... the usual brake cleaning stuff, no point taking pics but i dont mess about when it comes to brakes.
notably they aren't the same 6pots ive encountered before, each calliper has 4 pistons the same size and 2 slightly smaller. not sure what bike they've come off of but ive messaged the guy to find out.
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8034/28793268483_d2710a08b7_c.jpg)
looking at the back of the top yoke to see where i can get away with drilling for clamps, obviously you want to avoid webbing and if you can avoid having to reinforce if you drill somewhere thin its less work. the holes where the weird rubber covered bolt bits come off with a 17mm socket, not actually sure what theyre meant to mount to on the 11/750 but ideally thats the space i wanted to use for clamps due to its structure.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8514/29306430752_dbdd0a42a5_c.jpg)
plotted it out on the front for measuring distances and just making sure it was all going to work. bit of an awkward job as you dont have a straight edge to start from. the bar clamps are sitting in place and they will sit 15mm closer to the rider at that than the setup i have currently ( not sure if its a gs yoke im using at the moment), not what i wanted but it will work fine and if need be i can fill the fill the holes and remount.
done a bit of reading on steering geometry and i dont foresee it having any real effect other than making it a little more weight bias towards the back of the bike due to the riding position being different
the bolt width is like 97mm at that which is fine, measured a couple of bikes for clamp distance and they were all between 90mm on a ccm and 100mm on the gs5 and 1150rs i had to hand.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8075/28793281433_cbfd68718c_c.jpg)
off to work with the pillar drill, went up in sizes slowly to take it to m10 but m7 and up was really bad for starting to bind in and lock up so i finished it with a regular drill to be on the safe side. its not a tool ive used much to be honest.
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8669/28790721794_f424acfb2f_c.jpg)
clamps fitted! the holes lined up with my measurements so thats always good :icon_lol: they arent bad by any means but the holes could have been tidier, the pillar drill just wasn't playing ball for me and id rather not mangle anything.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8270/29126657320_6600a8db94_c.jpg)
and the underside
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8352/29306424212_9983af1ef6_c.jpg)
no risers fitted as of yet, going to see how it is first. the good thing about the bars being 15mm back is that there should be more space for preload adjustment on the forks :thumb: heres hoping anyway :thumb: might have to fit risers just to get more adjustment ie soften it up a little.
//
plan for this evening is to finish cutting down the mudguard i started like 2 years ago :icon_rolleyes: and make some brackets to fit to the new forks. its currently red so it'll likely get a coat of black when i'm done. after that its just a case of test fitting the front end tomorrow to make sure ive not overlooked anything then pressing the stem in and bleeding the brakes. its not my first front end swap, dont foresee any problems but you never know. hopefully get a proper ride out on monday to put it through its paces :cheers: :D i suspect the brakes are going to be utterly ridiculous.
obviously steering lock and steering stops need to be addressed but this wont stop the bike riding.
what a day of it yesterday...
stem on 750 wp is mahoosive in comparison to the gs stem. didnt have time to measure anything. castle nuts that you need a c-spanner on are the same, different nuts on the top though, 750 is threaded on the out side of the shaft and the gs is internal. uses the same bearings.
obviously for the sake of ease you press the stems out and use the gs stem in the 750 lower yoke, needs to be pressed from the top end down as there is a locking ring in the base.
now this bit i didnt foresee... they're meant to be like for like but the 750 stem is a couple thou larger so the gs stem fits no problem but its far from snug, it would be seriously dangerous to ride it like that. the guy with the press managed to find some shim material and get it fitted nicely. once again just didnt have time to take pics.
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8253/29471720035_025f481b7e_c.jpg)
now with the lower fitted and the top yoke going on here's the next dilemma, because both yokes are a bit thicker albeit not that much the stem sits a bit lower through, its also a different diamater at the top to that of the top yoke.
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8089/29471734815_621284894b_c.jpg)
so i made this wee alloy spacer up to take some of the slack, i will get something machined up to do the job better but it'll do for the short term. it was originally m6 and i had to bore it out to about m18, what a job when youre working with someone elses tools... tiiiiiime consuming :icon_rolleyes: :icon_eek:
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8163/29183145130_f80e8530ff_c.jpg)
and fitted, it takes up a great deal of the slack, probably 0.5-1mm out on the outer but im happy at that, it cant jiggle once the forks are on and it wont go anywhere once the bolts on but like i said i'll get a spacer machined up to do the job for the sake of doing it right.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8099/28849821953_f83d6300c6_c.jpg)
steering stops, as you can see the 750 stops stop on the frame :icon_lol: this will be remedied at a later date. steering angle is only slightly more than it was before and the bars are nowhere near the tank but it wont be acceptable for an MOT.
and boom, forks are on! :D
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8440/29363044472_4ff4da7c28_c.jpg)
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8370/29437386106_5f68a1df7d_c.jpg)
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8650/29471595275_a1e73b7dcc_c.jpg)
so front end is all loosely fitted :D
next issue, the ignition switch fouls the lock on the frame.
the gs500 actually shares the same switch as the 750wp and piles of other parts bin suzukis. i had to get a gs500 switch and lock set for my 11 when i lost the key :icon_rolleyes:
the lower edge was catching so it was ground down... with a cutting disk haha its all there was. and you can see the scraping in the middle so its been catching there, used the bench grinder to take down the switch just nibble by nibble test fitting fitting it every now and again till it was a comfortable fit.
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8190/28849685143_70694c0bfd_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8419/29392061441_bdaeb3df94_c.jpg)
quick splash of primer to stop it rusting up
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8135/29183095110_b507258328_c.jpg)
opened up the switches mounting holes to about 7mm as well just to aid with fitment.
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7466/29471630715_fb8310f488_c.jpg)
checked it again this morning and the primer has been rubbed off when pushing it home from the shed last night, so its still rubbing and needs addressed, looks to be just the pin area that i avoided itself now.
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7528/29363419892_f67517d45a_c.jpg)
bar clearance on the preload adjusters isnt terrible but ill need to rase the bars to decrease the preload.
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8263/29183124530_80a436cb67_c.jpg)
so here we go, this is its current state, everything loosely fitted, brakes on but not bled as i need to figure out if im using those brake lines and their routing.
currently not starting, think its a dodgy connection in the ignition circuit, ie killswitch/clutch switch or maybe the ignition switch itself.
when crossing the solenoid the starter spins and the plugs spark but it doesn't start, fuels definitely there. must've upset some electrical gremlins or some magic smoke has escaped from a wire :icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol: oh well, theres only so much testing you can do in the dark without a multimeter. yet to wire up the speedo again.
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8490/29363029972_74b2561013_c.jpg)
managed to lose the headlight brackets i was going to use so ive robbed these plates from another project :icon_lol: mudguard imade up isnt gointg to work so needs some re-working or i'll find something else.
parked up beside the 11, basically the same front end. :thumb: havent measured up the fork offset properly or height etc.
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8523/29391963871_c5bf8160a8_c.jpg)
Hows the fork angle and trail? It looks a bit more raked but that could just be the photo angle.
Quote from: gregjet on September 05, 2016, 02:44:39 PM
Hows the fork angle and trail? It looks a bit more raked but that could just be the photo angle.
Yet to physically measure it all Greg but it's not a great deal different. Think it looks a bit extreme in the pic because the forks are to the left for the steering lock. Comparing it's side profile to that of a std gs it's not much difference, the forks being much chunkier adds to it looking odd. There's also less sag so the bikes sitting much prouder at the front than normal, changing its geo.
I think the offset was about 5-10mm different, only quickly checked it so I don't really remember. The forks are about 5mm shorter so it kind of aids in countering the offset. Still about 10mm higher than I ran it before. Once it's setup and settled it'll be fine. I suspect the numbers to tell a different story though, should be looking at decreased trail and inversely decreased rake due to the increased offset to begin with, well that's my understanding anyway
Small differences in steering geometry can have massive effects but it's fair to say the benifits of the front end will negate any down sides, gs forks and brakes are pitiful, kind of funny that it's went from comically undersprung to comically over sprung. Absolute overkill in every regard.
A lot of stuff goes around about how huge the feel of the bike will be when you make changes to the geometry, but in truth , most won't even be noticed on the road. All the stuff that goes around because of how track riders talk about how tiny changes made such and such a difference. On the track where you are searching for unit seconds or parts of a second perspective is a bit different. Moving you position on the seat ( loading up your panniers) can have as bigger a difference on the handling than a few mm of trail.
However, just noting that sport bikes have usually relatively shorter trail by virtue of both the offset and the head angle. The lower offset subtracted from the steeper head angle will prob mean pretty much still in the ball park anyway. Especially if sitting higher.
Do you have enough thicker land section to adjust the outers up and down?
Great swap and really looking forward to a ride report. My GS is a modernisation project but can't afford to graft a set of USD's ( if I could I would put them on my Yamaha MT07).
What you said about the quality of the fork action is the most relevant , I agree. The OEM's are pretty much 70's forks and quite poor made worse by being undersprung and under size. Tune these up and the bike should be MUCH better.
Quote from: gregjet on September 06, 2016, 02:28:34 PM
A lot of stuff goes around about how huge the feel of the bike will be when you make changes to the geometry, but in truth , most won't even be noticed on the road. All the stuff that goes around because of how track riders talk about how tiny changes made such and such a difference. On the track where you are searching for unit seconds or parts of a second perspective is a bit different. Moving you position on the seat ( loading up your panniers) can have as bigger a difference on the handling than a few mm of trail.
However, just noting that sport bikes have usually relatively shorter trail by virtue of both the offset and the head angle. The lower offset subtracted from the steeper head angle will prob mean pretty much still in the ball park anyway. Especially if sitting higher.
Do you have enough thicker land section to adjust the outers up and down?
Great swap and really looking forward to a ride report. My GS is a modernisation project but can't afford to graft a set of USD's ( if I could I would put them on my Yamaha MT07).
What you said about the quality of the fork action is the most relevant , I agree. The OEM's are pretty much 70's forks and quite poor made worse by being undersprung and under size. Tune these up and the bike should be MUCH better.
totally agree, with most things you're really only going to notice when pushing hard or chasing fractions of seconds. when you start to do lots of little things with an incline towards say track or spirited riding, ie stiffening up the std forks, braided lines, decent pads, raising the forks through, setting your sag right it really does change the feel of the bike. changing one thing will be noticeable but when you change a few things to start dialling it in the difference is unbelievable. must say out of all the bikes ive fettled with the gs, when you make changes seems really profound, to hazard a guess most of the gs's components are thrown together with nothing but budget in mind. i guess to me the changes i make are tailored for getting the feel right to me which generally means more aggressive and responsive.
dont really have any clearance for tinkering with fork height or preload at the moment, think ive got a pic.
with the amount of changes made, ie height, spring tension, tyre, offset and trail i cant really feel the change in offset or any one of the elements, its just completely different now and the only basis for comparison is the way i had it set up on the other forks.
height wise, it feels alright, when youre sitting on it theres about 20-25mm of sag so it drops a bit but the gs forks sag was ehm... well i never measured it but 40+mm surely, they were terrible. but yeah without messing with the preload yet the ride quality is actually really quite good.
ohhhh i do like an mt07 :thumb: and i feel that! its a lot of money to throw into 'just' a gs isnt it, my only justification is still that i had the forks lying around but by the time i bought callipers, a wheel and discs it was a fair bit of money even though it was done as cheaply as possible. think i spent £30 on the front wheel with a decent tyre which is cheap cheap cheap.
about to post some pics etc but yeah had it out for about 5 minutes and the bike feels very planted and in that same breath its flicky but ive been riding the arse off the 11 for weeks so i cant make an accurate comparison.
couple of things to address.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7461/29647537361_33a712c619_c.jpg)
ive had to take the bench grinder to the ign switch more times than i care to remember now haha, it finally seems to be sitting without messing with steering movement. had to take masses of material out for it to clear completely.
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8371/29617675402_1084b963b0_c.jpg)
wee brackets made up to support the proper mudguard for the forks, nothing special.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8543/29647529281_2da1fd74dc_c.jpg)
shot of the rear tyre, still to get round to sorting the front sprocket offset, just haven't had the time.
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8547/29102150194_ae31460d9f_c.jpg)
one cleaned and re-oiled k&n
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8013/29102127854_5efb4868c7_c.jpg)
the throttle cable has been replaced and i balanced carbs for good measure too. werent too far out but its running noticeably sweeter.
//
had a bit of an issue getting the brakes to bleed it, 6 pots are notoriously a pain in the ass to bleed but that wasnt it. for some reason i had it stuck in my head that the gs used a 5/8 master and the cbr6 master i was using was a 5/8. well both are 1/2 master :icon_rolleyes: so i wont get into it but in theory it makes the brakes stronger however there isnt enough lever travel to support it, its just lever to bar because there too much hydraulic advantage. the brakes still worked fairly well but there was no resistance in the lever really which gave it the strangest feeling.
so the 6pots call for a 5/8 master and i had a spare 14mm master. 1/2 = 12.7mm 5/8 = 15.8mm, the higher the number the stiffer the lever will be however it takes more effort to move the lever, the smaller the bore the less effort it takes to move the lever therefor giving you much more modulation and overall power.
(http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56704) << good bit of reading.
this is all stuff ive been curious about for a while but havent had the chance to experiment with, anyway heres the 14mm master.
this has been a massive improvement but im not too sure about the feel, theres still just not enough bite on the lever for me. some people use the 14mm as an upgrade on the 6pots but i find it lacking so i'll make an effort to find a 5/8 master at some point. perhaps a 15mm (ish) master would be better suited but there just isnt means of playing with the ratios cheaply.
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8414/29629905612_9ee15d41ff_c.jpg)
its not the right reservoir so I've had to sketch up a bracket and make it work, quite like the angle it sits at but it means the fluid moves away from the hose on left handers, ive had the bike over and made sure its all still going to be safe though and there shouldnt be any problem as the hose retains fluid it just swirls about in the reservoir.
you'll also see how little space there is between the bars and the adjusters on the forks.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8275/29116866393_8bb9ffc3d0_c.jpg)
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8850/29102141454_975a4847ec_c.jpg)
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8311/29437868150_92054b5013_c.jpg)
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8405/29629909532_df57f04434_c.jpg)
havent given the bike a proper shakedown as of yet but for the 5 minutes ive ridden it, it feels good. planted and flickable. :thumb: looking at it puts a smile on my face anyway, its just such a ridiculous build. also yet to wire the speedo back up :police:
barst lifted with ghetto raisers :wink: just showing the amount ive taken the pre-load out, was on marker 5 and now its on 8. took it right and and turned it in back a tweak as you're not meant to leave it fully out.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5064/29560493280_3ac888b7fd_c.jpg)
definitely feeling a bit better, yet to make note of the measurements but the rider sag looks okay and the static sag still isn't quite right but the forks seem to be settling now that they've been ridden a bit, not sure if thats in my head but a 2nd set of hands and a measuring tape wont lie.
hopefully got a hand to check it later and get the offset measurement etc :thumb: just want to do the math and see the geometry changes out of curiosity.
new can, bargain price :thumb: had been dented underneath and filled with weld and buffed back, tidy enough. danmoto gp extreme.
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8405/29975878086_07c1e13d4f_c.jpg)
sketchy hanger :icon_lol: its the strap from the end of a scorpion carbon can that blew out. metal on metal because... i just dont care :icon_lol: but more importantly Anvil. yep, metal band puns.
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5636/29383253923_a8991b1427_c.jpg)
nothing to spring it to and no springs so wired it up to a clamp :icon_lol:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8623/29975879496_7148f5398a_c.jpg)
very deep sounding, very loud without a baffle, in fact far too loud. ran excellently. threw a baffle in and now its flattened out in the midrange so ill have to make some adjustments to the fuelling again. no biggie.
note: even baffled, its far too loud. and i cant believe i'm saying that. proper OBNOXIOUS.
replaced the suspension knuckle, bearings had disintegrated. :icon_rolleyes: cheaper to buy a 2nd hand knuckle that put bearings in the old one.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7554/29756067280_8dea0014c5_c.jpg)
playing about with dogbones. some spare thunderace ones i had lying about. 15mm shorter 165mm in length
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5219/29423112643_10a6c7f6b7_c.jpg)
gs dogbones 180mm
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5568/29936704342_8f0e32608f_c.jpg)
wee car jack for controlling the the back end. the joys of not having a 2nd set of hands. not the easiest way but it worked.
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5710/29966833811_e2eb0c2771_c.jpg)
shock fouled the swingarm so i ground it down a bit, still fouled.
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8725/29936449782_ae6525c091_c.jpg)
before shot
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5605/29966839421_2e583c9d51_c.jpg)
after shot
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8539/29422697084_51f61b0841_c.jpg)
the minus 15mm at the dogbone equated to just shy of 2'' at the end of the tail, quite a dramatic change and so far it feels much better. the geometry change in terms of the suspension linkage itself has made it slightly firmer as the leverage has changed to the pivot point which is a plus for me. haven't measured sag yet as its a 2 person job.
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/6/5554/30050044135_8603da9067_c.jpg)
started removing the shock to grind down the swing arm for clearance again but it was far too late for noise by the time i got it off so i started a couple other things.
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5332/29756070580_a345e87dd6_c.jpg)
may have started something ive wanted to do for a couple years now but lacked the balls to start cutting but yeah... :angel:
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8775/29423122053_9c23465dc6_c.jpg)
had made this up for the cbr ages ago and i just modified (hacked it up a bit more) it and recycled it on the gs.
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8549/29966580371_5cc6823826_c.jpg)
speedo now sits on front of the bars :thumb: not terrible placement actually but i still haven't gotten round to wiring it up again. :icon_rolleyes:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5611/30050024065_e364714681_c.jpg)
and that was it for the night.
//
got stuck into grinding the swingarm down again this morning, possibly went too deep... not really concerned but grinding blind is never a good idea. never :icon_lol:
a thunderace brake light was almost a perfect fit for what i was going for (sheer luck) certainly much better than the gs light in terms of size and shape for stashing flush. looks stupid without the seat on i know but it sits almost flush with it on. a bit more shaping and tweaking of the subframe and undertray led to this.
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8084/30050024045_be934e5568_c.jpg)
a couple of sketchy ass brackets and the stainless hex head holds the top of the number plate bracket.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8275/30016587736_87b5641d55_c.jpg)
the very complicated tail tidy :icon_lol: haha got to love a bit of flat bar. pure unadulterated function. :angel:
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8539/29422412434_afa7aaa64c_c.jpg)
there was a lot of nipping, tucking and hacking involved but i got there. set out this morning with the hopes of getting the bike ready today for the last bikenight of the season tonight and managed it with an hour to spare... when does that ever happen. today was a good day. completely forgot to get a pic of the seat on etc. i'll see what i can do tomorrow :thumb: but yeah! shes looking purdy, in a winter hack, ratty kind of a way. :D a lot of the things ive done are so hackish, unrefined and 'unfinished'. usually its not something i do. i'd never do anything of the sort with my cbr6 or gsxr11 but its actually really quite good fun to be like 'Fkit, that works' and not strive for every bracket and edge to be perfect. on one hand it almost pains me to do it but on the other i feel like it adds to the bikes character. far too much love for my heap of a gs5. :icon_mrgreen: :icon_rolleyes: :cookoo: :confused:
couple of updates.
speedo bracket broke with vibration, took lots of material out to make it work with the gs ignition switch and took too much it seems. no biggie, i'll just have to make another when theres time.
front mudguard has started to crack at one of its mounting points, easy fixed but really i shouldve rubber mounted it or found the correct bracket. ive got access to another and it also looks to have the correct bracket. not entirely sure what its from, could be tl1000, soon enough find out if it fits.
need to rubber mount the exhaust can.
got an idea for micro indicators, tinier than tiny but will have to wait and see how it plays out though.
need to tweak the headlight light clamps so they grip a bit better still and tighten the headlight up.
still need to buy the correct size of front brake master, there's a bandit6 5/8 with braided lines going cheap enough, might pick it up.
currently just cable tying my phone to the bar clamps to use as a gps speedo :angel: haha
still need to find means of securing the front sprocket when i correct the offset.
need to purchase my winter tyres. :icon_twisted: :cookoo:
something has broken loose inside the exhaust collector :mad: it rattles about and makes one hell of a noise. had the headers off trying to shake it out or get something down inside but no luck. will have to cut it open and see what its doing. no biggie its just a bit of rattle, as annoying as it is.
rear wheel bearings and/or sprocket carrier bearing is making a bit of noise. bearings are sitting ready to do, just need to find the time.
wound the preload up to max on the rear and although the bike feels alot more well sorted the back end gets skittery in the wet :icon_twisted: :icon_lol: not ideal but its damn good fun around town. will be getting another shock eventually but theres no priority on that.
rearsets once a few things are out the way and funds are available.
still need to insulate the connectors on the indicator resisters :icon_rolleyes: i know i know, just havent bothered to do it.
when grinding down the inside of the swingarm for clearance (again) i may have taken a bit too much material out. nothing im concerned about but its worth noting. plan on making an sv650 alloy swinger work anyway, so long as it doesn't lengthen the bike. the gs has already got quite a long wheelbase and stretching a bike for looks is stupid, if its being dragged then fair play thats a different story but a street bike... go home, you're drunk, take your poor taste and neon lights with you. :icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol:
valve clearances still need checked (no noises, its just time to check, has been for a while), going to speak to someone about getting the head skimmed and maybe ported. perhaps its just throwing a bit too much work on the table for now.
need to find a bit of time to tweak needle height as theres a smidge of bog in that area. yet to check the plugs to see how its running visually but it feels alright and power wheelies in 1st on a gs are just stupid fun :icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5710/30259900985_c1e0655353_c.jpg)
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8278/30225042026_f79885b604_c.jpg)
really happy so far but theres still a fair bit to do to get it ready for winter. tax is up on the 1100 at the end of the month so it'll be coming off the road for winter and i'll be running the gs full time again.
ive just been using my phone as a speedo for an age now as ive just not had time to fab up another bracket and wire the digi speedo back in and i had a moment of inspiration for a quick fix if you want to call it that :icon_lol:
so ive got a set of crash damaged clocks, theres no means of reattaching the facia easily as its a different top yoke now, that and well the original gs clocks are massive and pretty intrusive when you're going minimalist.
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5495/30619921285_7f1b22fa2e_c.jpg)
i did however have a broken thunderace speedo sitting with the bare mechanism showing haha see where im going with this?
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5590/29985948473_65f68666dc_c.jpg)
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5544/29985947493_427265a665_c.jpg)
note: it was sitting very neatly until i pulled a cable tie to tight and messed it up :icon_rolleyes: looks rat, make do and just a tad mental i reckon. even cable tied to LEDS underneath so it was backlit at night. after all that... it turned out to be a different speedo cable size :icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol: typical haha considered stripping down the gs one to bare mechanism but it would be butchering something that didnt need butchered and something about that just feels wrong to me. the plan is to see if i can utilise the gs's original speedo again but inside its casing and just not bother with the tach as a short term (but i'll probably never get round to sorting it properly) fix haha yeah i was just messing around and when it was sitting tidily it was actually really quite smart.
//
finally got round to installing a proper 5/8 master for the front brakes, it was interesting playing around with the hydraulic ratios and crazy the backwards way in which it works. its a mk1 bandit 600 master and lever. ive decided i quite like the stock levers on the bike rather than the imitation shorty pazzo levers you pick up on ebay, they dont physically feel as good but they add to the overall raw visual feel of the bike. currently mismatched but i'll pull the original clutch lever out of storage to make a matching set.
the bandit6 braided lines that i picked up with the master are slightly longer than the thunderace ones i'm currently using and are therefor no use so they're getting sold on.
because i was just switching master i didnt need to drain lines or anything so once swapped, nipped up and topped up with fluid i bled the air out the top by just flicking the lever a little, took maybe 5 mins top until there was no more bubbles rather than pushing air all the way through the system and out the calliper nipples. handy little trick for those unaware.
the brakes feel IMMENSE. they're absolutely ridiculous on a little gs. total overkill :thumb: i dont particularly like the 6 pots on the 1100 but the weight difference between the two bikes really is highlighted in braking performance.
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5458/30373332190_511aaced0e_c.jpg)
//
regarding the front end being a bit stiff its been suggested i remove a bit of oil from the forks and see how it feels or fabricate a smaller preload spacer. think ill give it a shot when ive got other things out the way.
got a wee to do list to get through on the gs tomorrow, heres hoping it all goes well.
pulled the back wheel off to do the bearings. pretty swift and hassle free when youve got an internal puller :thumb:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5616/30599656832_59099846c1_c.jpg)
wheel bearings were out and back in within a couple of minutes, pulled the carrier bearing out to find id been sent the wrong size...
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5544/30415973040_993af8de93_c.jpg)
so the bike was left sitting for a couple of days.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5826/30081877953_155131dc59_c.jpg)
look at the buff mark where the the carrier has been moving and rubbing on the cush drive.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5455/30599656192_c7a7289863_c.jpg)
the corresponding marks on the cush.
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5659/30415971410_07b4e1428e_c.jpg)
so i couldnt progress with he bearings and after dicking about with the speedo situation i just cable tied the original speedo thats not been on the bike in years back on, turned out not to work unfortunately, havent had time to check but im hoping its just a broken cable or the cable isn't long enough internally or something like that.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5443/30599658232_4f94eee812_c.jpg)
sits well enough and its not as intrusive as it ever was in its original bracket.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5530/30415970240_27bef7fce1_c.jpg)
a t5 green wedge led that i had installed years back.
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5784/30716428635_6a6eae3513_c.jpg)[
reinstalled the original gs clutch perch so that i could use the original lever again, cant believe it but the old levers have really grown on me. and woo ive got a matching set again!
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/6/5619/30716435335_b034070c17_c.jpg)
had to leave the bike on a paddock stand for a couple of days till the right bearing arrived, bit inconvenient but no biggie. it has since been reassembled and put a hundred or so miles on it trouble free.
//
but i have some bad news it seems... nasty problem started developing today. funny whirring noises when coasting in gear :sad: im guessing a gearbox bearing :dunno_black: not something ive ever dealt with before or something i can do quickly.
rotate wheel freely when on stand, nothing unusual.
engine runs fine, no noises.
coasts fine when clutch is held in or is in neutral.
pulls whilst in any gear and makes no noise.
allow to coast in gear and you get the whirring sound.
i had thought maybe clutch release bearing but that would be a rattly sound at tickover, nothing clutch related matches symptoms me thinks, certainly nothing ive dealt with before.
need to think it over a bit more but i think i've got it isolated to being gearbox related :icon_rolleyes: ideal when its its my only means of transport over winter and were only at the start of november.
//
really not sure what to do right now, think ill continue to use it and hope it becomes obvious what the issue is. i might even have to give it to someone else to sort as i just dont have the time or clean space to do a gearbox teardown.
Very much enjoy your updates :thumb: I've always liked the stock GS levers... I mean yeah shorty ones look cool I can appreciate them as well!! But... I've always been a fan of the stock ones.
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on November 04, 2016, 04:16:07 PM
Very much enjoy your updates :thumb: I've always liked the stock GS levers... I mean yeah shorty ones look cool I can appreciate them as well!! But... I've always been a fan of the stock ones.
thanks showbiz, means a lot :D :cheers: theres something liberating about working on something that you don't really need to worry about and just messing around and its satisfying actually getting things finished. i mean i started a tail swap on my cbr almost a year ago and its not finished yet haha sloooow progress.
yeah i can see that, i think theres a time and place for shortys, the rsv ones are stunning on modern supersports for example. i absolutely love the adjustability and length for feel (heh thats what she said) but a lot of the time they look out of place on bikes like especially on anything oldschool or classic styled or if the finish doesn't suit the bike ie mines were shiny and polished and nothing about my bike is every going to be polished :icon_lol: i think once upon a time they worked on mine when it was borderline immaculate and it was something just a little bit different but that ship has sailed, perhaps they would've been better in black. subtlety is key with most things visual, i always cringe when something looks like its just been 'stuck' on or people over do colour schemes, anything anodised red or bright gold kills me inside. good taste is both subjective and a rare thing. far too many faux pas with modding bikes and i don't know about you but far too often i have to bite my tongue on group pages or forums, people don't often take well to honesty or know how to handle constructive criticism :icon_lol: :icon_rolleyes: :tongue2: i'm still questioning my choice of going for wavey disks, they look so 'in your face' but on the other hand everything else about the bike seems a bit edgy and in your face so it might actually kind of work but it pulls away from the classic vibes.
//
sidenote: took the bike out today for a quick test and the noise and vibration has vanished. going to have to keep an ear out as i suspect it to pop back up again. so thats good, ride it till it breaks :icon_lol:
it really is such poor timing with this recent possible gearbox issue as i had planned to do something a bit mental when the engine finally gave up ie an engine swap :icon_eek: with a big single ktm 690, an old vfr400 v4 or just something a bit different but i just dont have the time or resources at the moment with it being my sole means of transport. grr... heres hoping the engine runs for years anyway :icon_rolleyes: :icon_lol:
Whirring noise not your speedo cable by any chance?
Quote from: gregjet on November 06, 2016, 01:01:11 PM
Whirring noise not your speedo cable by any chance?
thats a fair suggestion, something easily overlooked and hadn't crossed my mind. the noise wasn't consistent with the rotation of the wheels thats the first thing i checked at the side of the road, it was only present when off the throttle coasting with gears engaged. when put in neutral or the clutch pulled in the noise and vibration stopped. when wheels were spun on the stand they were fine.
had the bike out twice today, maybe 2 mile total just for testing and the noise and vibration still hasn't come back.
however the speedo cable was snapped but i managed to find another in the shed and now theres a working albeit highly inaccurate speedo :icon_rolleyes: :icon_lol: the larger tyre should slightly correct the difference but its still massively out. 30mph on the speedo is actually 25mph on the gps, think thats a difference of 16.6% which is massively out, real world gps 60 seemed to read slightly under 75 on the speedo. said it before but the gs speedo is soooooo innacurate. 70% of 120 is inherently taller than 70% of 110 yet mines is still about 16.6% high :confused: :icon_eek: < yeah the 'height' of your tyre is an apex ratio based on tyre width for anyone reading this that didnt know that. ie 120/70/17 the 70 height is 70 percent of the 120 (84). 110 is 77 high.
need to paint that speedo casing black just so its less eye catching. so yeah i guess thats a little bit of progress today. hopefully picking up a new mudguard tomorrow, just have to see how it plays out.
Really enjoying reading up on the progress of the bike!
Quote from: bazcarnegs on November 17, 2016, 01:34:02 AM
Really enjoying reading up on the progress of the bike!
thanks baz, you keep reading it and i'll keep updating it :cheers: :thumb:
took the front mudguard off to try the other one, a gsxr 750 m from a later oily' but the mounting points were off by like 5-10mm on the front, so that got popped back to my friend and luckily i found the right one on ebay with the right bracket going dead cheap, cant remember if i mentioned any of this in my last post haha my bad if im repeating myself here.
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5676/30724615570_cedb4e97a4_c.jpg)
looks pretty sweet without the front mudguard i reckon but... i live in scotland remember :icon_rolleyes: see when the grounds wet... you get a 6 foot watery projection straight up ^^ :icon_lol: :icon_mrgreen: so yeah i avoided running the wet for the week it was like that but obviously it still flings any debris and grit at this time of the year up. not particularly nice.
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/6/5811/31026629415_e4ed02f34f_c.jpg)
the new inner bracket and mudguard, looks alright but the bracket will need stripped back and painted or powdercoated to protect it when one can be arsed. as will the blueness need corrected to something much more blackerer.
have since fitted it but havent had the daylight to actually grab a pic but... it really is very blue.
ordered some bits.
getting some braided lines made up to fit. 735mm banjo centre to banjo centre, actually measure 10mm less but this should be safer should i have miscalculated or just need a little extra. will be 5'' shorter than the blandtit6 lines ive got sitting :o i'll likely have to split the brakes down and clean them again at the same time... i hate 6 pots, i really do.
paint for the wheels :thumb:
new clutch cable as mine is on its way out.
a nice new 150/70 tkc80 to match the front one ive been gifted :icon_twisted: should be a laugh.
and something to aid my little indicator experiment which i'll post when fitted should it work.
popped to halfrauds to grab some etch primer for the wheels, matt black as an undercoat and some lacquer to finish the rustoleom cast bronze tins im waiting on. heres hoping the paints dont react with each other. also played with the idea of stripping the old paint and just brass wheeling it over and giving it a coat of laquer to protect it, just like a total raw looking finish but i figure it mightve been 'too much' when i get round to stripping the tank as well. dunno but really the wheels are better off being protected guess.
sooooo i dropped the bike downhill on ice doing about 7-10mph. slid about 15ft upright with the bike then probably 10ft on my side, very slidey and quite a funny story but its too much to write up on here :icon_lol: no big deal and not fussed but snapped a clutch lever, bent the bars and bent the left peg a little. dealing with junctions clutchless with my gearing on ice was hilarious on the 7 mile ride home.
new lever is on order & need to go speak to a friend about some spare bars. no other scratches or damage to the bike at all :thumb: and well ive just got a bruised hip and a slightly sore leg from it getting trapped under.
clutch cable turned up, im experimenting with paints for the wheels right now, currently waiting for it to dry to touch and might post the testers tonight. need to haul my lights for the indicators out the shed to experiment with, waiting on my rear tyre still but that will be good fun.
wee paint test :icon_mrgreen: texture of the paint is slightly different than anticipated, as is colour but its cool i can still work with it.
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5767/31120828285_99dca713dc_c.jpg)
to the left we have the paint + lacquer and i peeled it back a bit just for fun (in person it looks like lacquered rust which is kinda cool)
in the middle is a flat black undercoat.
to the right is just the paint over the stainless finish of the socket.
think the one on the right is what i'll go for, its just a bit brighter. not quite what i was going for but it will be different and should pop quite nicely. in retrospect i should've went for something perhaps metallic rather than matt and textured but yeahhh its still close enough for what i was going for :thumb: happy days, now just need to find time to swap tyres when i get them, prep and paint wheels etc.
grabbed a couple of pics just because its mad frosty and it looked cool, pun intended.
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5758/30333234324_409ff557c7_c.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5563/31040215241_cde0bff9f5_c.jpg)
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5738/30347299853_7cf97b199e_c.jpg)
aaaaaaannnnnnd my back tyre just arrived! :thumb: :D Conti TKC 80 150/70/17 banded and tubeless although there is a tubed version so you need to watch out. got it dead cheap through oponeo, 20-30 cheaper than i've seen it elsewhere.
(https://c8.staticflickr.com/6/5722/31040383471_92046cd6eb_c.jpg)
really looking forward to taking the gs places its really not meant to go :icon_lol: :nono: although in all honesty road tyres are surprisingly alright off road in the dry, had a hoon on my old thunderace fighter around a loose dirt track with a friend on a gsxr6 k5 i think it was hahaha :cheers: brilliant fun. it'll be a different story when it comes to anything wet or inconsistent i reckon. dunno... cant wait, it'll be muchos badass but it really does detract from my original intent for the bike.
clutch lever replaced alongside cable :D :D :D both tyres sitting now just need to find the time to fitem'
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(https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5641/30851792270_a3455cf93f_c.jpg)
playing about. surprisingly doesn't block too much light and it looks black from a distance when in daylight. might keep it might not. could do with painting the outside lip black just for a bit of stealth.
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5529/30397843894_c1de0c18b5_c.jpg)
micro indicator experiment seems to be quite promising, could be cleaner but for all intensive purposes it works and although its a smaller surface area than your typical micro indicators they are much brighter and should be much neater once tucked on the bike.
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5804/30397845444_34165208d4_c.jpg)
like i said, much brighter :thumb: think they are 10x25mm or 30 which is tiny. shouldn't be an mot problem i wouldn't suspect, think the stipulations are just on distance from other lights. certainly not worried.
sooooo... last night it finally happened.
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5505/31150785012_050c86c439_c.jpg)
winter attack mode is here.
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5531/30487029333_6cd7bf98ea_c.jpg)
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5701/31258500556_2e9a1dccab_c.jpg)
chain clearance looks massive in comparison to the prior 160, i pre-emptively removed the sprocket offset spacer beforehand.
part worn on the front and a brand new one on the back. ive only had it out once, albeit wet/cold and im just going to put it down to it being a new tyre but damn it was easy to kick out at junctions haha. its a completely different riding experience, i know the tyres are fairly capable from using them on my bros bike but it will take a bit of getting used to and i definitely wont be able to ride it with the same demeanour i usually do which is a real shame but admittedly ive not had the same confidence in the bike since swapping to the gsxr front end, i really need to make an effort to get it set up right. definitely a bit more sitty up now with the tkc's anyway, not a bad thing really just something a bit different. the build was never really about looks for me but i think it looks mean as sheeeiiiit with the knobblies.
ive been having some cold start problems with the temp being +/- zero C' in the mornings and at night, hard starting then backfiring, dropping a cyl at idle/low revs until warm, carbs spitting but then its alright once running. hoping i'll just need to give the carbs a once over and if it doesn't help then i'll check the coils etc to see what its doing there.
more progress =D happy days
Woah nice!! I can only imagine how much different it is with the knobblies... great update!
I'm really looking forward to seeing what you do with those indicators. I like the idea and share your thoughts in regards to distance from other lights. Where are you planning to put them? Can't wait to see!!
That vinyl you used on the headlight is a neat idea, there's a guy here at my work who has red on the headlight of his Ducati... it's really cool stuff to work with IMO, it's what I used on my helmet visors. Any pictures of it on the bike?
:cheers: :icon_mrgreen: i'll need to figure out what pressures work best with them as i know youre meant to run them a bit softer, currently 30psi/30psi and it just feels a bit toffee like to turn but thats partly down to the tyres themselves. yeah like they are actually surprisingly good once you get used to them, just have to bare in mind youre not on road bias tyres so you cant treat them like such. but i guess it is my winter bike so i shouldn't be hanging off in the corners at this time of year anyway haha cant wait to get them on snow though :icon_mrgreen: :icon_rolleyes:
not really sure on positioning yet. on the front im thinking of making brackets to stash them off the bottom yoke/triple so that they are either underneath the headlight ie inside the fork legs or likewise making brackets but mounting them to the bottom yoke/triple's outer clamping bolts. the issue is going to be mounting them where they are discreet enough yet still visible. for the rear i can just locate them onto the previous number plate brackets but id like to mount them up on the subframe so theyre right up and out the way but as i dont have a proper mudguard they would likely get splattered with mud and road grime which isnt much use. just going to be trial and error i suppose. also playing with the idea of using two of the micro ones together if need be to brighten things up but i dont think its going to be necessary. once thought occurred i started looking at some 'high end' builds and some have really interesting ways of stashing indicators, i guess its one of those minor details that are easily overlooked but really it kind of makes nice clean lines on a bike.
yeah ive had the vinyl sitting for ages and kind of forgot i had it haha the mesh stuff is slightly harder to use as if you need to heat it, it can spiderweb out. thats a cool idea using vinyl on helmet visors though :thumb: i do quite lot of riding in the dark so although its not a massive amount of light lost its not ideal for me unfortunately so it could very well be coming back off at some point. its a bit like riding at night with a dirty visor... but you with your visor and its still a bit darker than usual haha :icon_lol:
need to take the bike out shortly for a blast to check the plugs properly, i'll grab a photo for you :thumb:
cant remember if i mentioned before but ive suddenly developed a cold start problem. usually it starts on the button but now it takes a good few tries and a couple of backfires to get it running which is no use really, especially early in the morning or late at night :icon_rolleyes: :icon_twisted: haha so first things first i pulled the carbs yesterday for a quick once over.
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5717/31156397742_59098db288_c.jpg)
left hand seat was hanging out but still firm in place :confused:
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5575/31185721691_51ceafa18d_c.jpg)
some gunk and corrosion in the seal area. also looked like some instant gasket had been used in the past to help seal the o-ring. i dont remember doing this but i very well could have. either way i cleaned it up and pushed it in with pliers, really quite difficult so im assuming theres a good seal, same with other side but there wasnt any build up. note to self: order some o-rings.
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5607/31156398182_4035a9ecca_c.jpg)
finally found my spare carbs! :icon_lol: although it turns out ive got 2 spare sets, all the o-rings are shot on the needle seats though but i robbed a vacuum cap to replace the one i had to repair ages ago.
cleaned everything and fired it back together, bike started much easier but the temps are warmer right now. cleaned the plugs and it improved, took it out for a quick 5min run and the plugs were funny afterwards, lhs = fouling rhs = a bit lean. pitch black and frozen id had enough :icon_lol: carbs are fine, plugs were odd so this leads me to think its either ignition related or down to valve clearances.
this morning i noticed that at idle when cold and full choke it seems to drop onto one cylinder and come back to 2 intermittently, with a bit throttle it'll jump onto 2 as well. symptoms disappear once warm although it might be reciprocating when warm and on full throttle under load, im not certain if it is but obviously vibration and heat give gremlins places to hide. also noticed that once warm and running you can remove the lhs plug cap and the bike will drop to one cyl and thump away happily, same goes when you remove the right it will thump away happily so neither side shows weakness in that regard.
after a good 12 mile thrash, basically full throttle to my door and engine off, i whipped the plugs off and although looking a tad rich they were equal this time.
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5475/31281561596_9ef9d08c95_c.jpg)
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5577/30495861644_6622eee379_c.jpg)
not spot on equal but close enough, excuse the build up on the side of the rhs, missed it when cleaning the first time :icon_rolleyes:
i dialed the air/mix screw back in a quarter turn to see if it makes starting it tomorrow any easier. cant remember now but i think it was out to 3.25 or 3.5 the last time i was playing with it months ago. think i'll need to drop a main jet size on this current exhaust configuration. that readings quite rich for it being at 4/4 throttle.
i'd also planned on testing the coils, leads and wiring back to the icm/cdi unit today but the day has run away so that'll be a job for tomorrow, just want to rule it out before diving into the valve clearances and timing. also plan on gapping the plugs and i should hopefully be picking up some straight bars in the evening :icon_lol:
so its slightly better than it was and i've ruled something out so its a win in my book.
//
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couple of pics for showbiz :thumb:
with the headlight off it actually looks a bit darker in person
oh yeah, check this! :icon_eek:
this was the carbs originally on the bike many a year ago, the pilot jet had a stripped head and threads were damaged so once i got something to grip it i couldn't spin it all the way loose. long story short the casting cracked whilst trying to remove the pilot :icon_eek: :confused:
(https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5721/30492599323_e897d8fecb_c.jpg)
so yeah lots of spares haha and im really not sure where the 2nd spare set came from. really handy because they'll share parts with a lot of other suzikis.
Awesome!! I still love the look of the beefier forks you put on too... my eye gets drawn there in every pic. Thanks for taking them!
I completely understand about the vinyl on the helmet visor... tbh I only ever put my visor down in the day time... mainly on the highway. I like knowing it's there, how I did my two custom helmets it would look silly without the print on the vinyl and I can flip it down anytime I want but for the most part I ride with it up and have riding glasses I use inside my helmet. Found ones on ebay that are super comfy and I have them in clear, sunglasses and also a pair that are yellow tinted for the night time (although I prefer the clear ones over those for some reason lol)
Ugh I would love to be able to keep riding even when it snows. My dad used to back in the day but he was like, "Yeah I fell down a lot haha... got tired of burning my leg on the exhaust so I finally got smart and stopped..." but I don't believe he had the proper tires and if I know my dad he didn't have proper gear either :icon_rolleyes:
haha yeah it makes me smile every time i see it, its like ohhhh god what did i do :confused: :icon_mrgreen: most people dont seem to have any idea what it even is.
i was meaning the tint on the headlight but yeah the same would apply for visors. ahhh okay i guess you do a lot of city riding with the visor open then or youve got quite a low speed limit near you? i tend to open the visor in built up areas, think it help visibility a bit but yeah i couldnt ride open visored most of the time here for weather and crud kicking up off the roads, spend most of my time 80+
haha thats brilliant yeah i definitely give kudos to the folk riding all year no matter the weather and anyone who's ''done their time'' doing so. it can be gruelling at times and im really glad i only do 20 mile round trips max during winter :icon_lol: the right gear helps, i know people who still go on about doing it in jeans back in the day. and in the last 3 years ive only had that one recent winter related slide so i think ive been quite lucky.
i reckon my tyres will be awful when its icy but alright on snow as long as im behaving. i figure theyre more likely to lose traction however they should be more likely to re-find it, winter riding is really just about riding to the conditions really. its all part of the fun, looking forward to the slidey stuff. :icon_mrgreen:
well coils, leads and plug caps check out as does the related wiring. main ground gave me some funny readings but the cable tests fine however battery to engine or frame shows a little more resistance than id like. the signal pulse generator checks out and so does its wiring, made sure everything was doing as its meant to. momentarily one of the wires was spiking about the place but tested again and it was fine. so theres potential signs of weakness there but really i need to test these things again on a really frosty morning.
i dont suspect it to be coil related as typically they are fine when cold but act up when hot whereas im finding the opposite.
cleaned all the connections and gave them a squoosh of wd40, bike started on the button with no hesitation but it wasnt exactly minus temps so it doesnt really prove that its been resolved.
potential gearbox issue still hasnt revealed itself so happy days there. :thumb:
gremlins... yeugh... see what happens, i'll be happy if something actually brakes or fails, at least then i'll be able to sort it indefinitely rather than just having a fiddle and everything seems fine again.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5811/31338070865_4769e6b461_c.jpg)
^ modified ignition timing pickup plate for a little bit of advance, you'll see the 2 main mounting points have been ground round to allow the plate to be rotated anti-clockwise ie making it spark slightly sooner. done it years ago but from what i recall, there wasnt a noticeable power gain however the throttle response just felt a little bit sharper which was good. theres a guide on one of the gs pages if you have a look. thought id take a pic whilst the cover was off.
Lots of small trips for me yes... it's only 2.5 miles from my house to my work and the highest the speed limit gets between here and there is 35 LOL... even on the weekends when I'm going to work at my dad's garage, the highway is only 55 for the speed limit... I'll try to keep around 65 but when I tuck everything in and get behind my windscreen I've noticed 80+ comes up realllll fast haha :D
And I can imagine what you said about the forks... most people really wouldn't have a clue what ya did and it's like ugh !!
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on November 30, 2016, 12:38:34 PM
Lots of small trips for me yes... it's only 2.5 miles from my house to my work and the highest the speed limit gets between here and there is 35 LOL... even on the weekends when I'm going to work at my dad's garage, the highway is only 55 for the speed limit... I'll try to keep around 65 but when I tuck everything in and get behind my windscreen I've noticed 80+ comes up realllll fast haha :D
And I can imagine what you said about the forks... most people really wouldn't have a clue what ya did and it's like ugh !!
ahhh right :thumb: yeah all our single carriage ways i.e one lane traveling either direction are 60. some single track roads are 40 which no one really obeys and our dual carriage ways (2 lanes travelling either direction) & motorways (3+ lanes travelling either direction) are both 70 with the exception of some dualers being less but we dont really have roads like that on our doorstep and our villages, towns an cities are all 30 unless stated otherwise. spend most of my time flat out around the back roads that are 60 zones here as im like 15-20 minutes in any direction to get to a city. the gs is quick enough getting up to 80 but i always found it to just struggle a bit beyond that until i got it breathing a bit better.
yeah haha in towns its loud, obnoxious and everyone about snaps their neck turning round to see it :icon_rolleyes: not necessarily a good thing hahaha but the looks of disgust i get from non petrolheads is brilliant, you can usually spot the bikers pulling the ''what the fk is that'' face :icon_lol: its not often i can park it up without someone wanting to talk about it, between that and the gsxr11 it can be a nightmare when you're needing to get somewhere. but yeah because it doesnt say gs500 on the side most people are oblivious, had lots of people ask about my bandit and im just like ''... i've never had a blandtit?'' :flipoff: :icon_rolleyes: always entertaining i guess but no one gets why ive done it to a gs :icon_lol:
//
bike started on the button this morning (wasnt too cold) but was a little boggy till warm so that to me says fuelling but ive known this for long enough.
its not been quite the same since i switched exhaust can so i'm dropping from 152.5 mains to 147.5 as the plugs read pretty damn rich. i lost a set of 150s unfortunately, they fell out my pocket or i would've thrown them in to see what like. :icon_rolleyes:
once i dial the fuelling in again and its back to doing what its meant to do i'll be getting some brisk plugs (br12 zc) fancy multispark plugs that are meant to be the bee's knees. theres a few interesting brisk options but the br12's are the race oriented ones. should have it running a bit better and 'should' see an increase in power output but really such claims are nothing without back to back dyno charts, it will however give better throttle response without a doubt. i think they fall into the same heat range as the standard ngk dpr 8ea 9's so it wont be changing its thermal and self cleaning characteristics. i think there was a post years ago from the late and great addidasguy on here about the brisk plugs. a lot of people will say theres no point but all these little things you do to make it just a little bit better really do add up to being a profound difference, its just a little sharper and a little more on point but obviously its never going to make the same difference as jumping on a bike with a set of hot cams or a big bore haha
still planning on skimming the head to increase compression at some point, porting the head and playing with bigger carbs :thumb: its a shame there isn't a big bore kit available anymore and any custom big bore is going to be more of a headache than its worth unfortunately.
think thats it for today but yeah it started much better so it might even have just been a connection needing cleaned... gremlins... who knows :dunno_black: but it being so rich in the cold weather wont help so its just another step of getting it right and ruling something out. O0
//
Hey what size of tires are you using????
Quote from: emanuel_v19 on December 02, 2016, 09:45:24 AM
Hey what size of tires are you using????
haha hey emanuel, they're not actually that big, its a 150/70/17 mounted on a proper sized rim and a 120/70/17 mounted on the proper sized rim :thumb: the tread just makes them look massive.
And when you say proper sized rim, you mean a different rim other than the stock one right?
Quote from: emanuel_v19 on December 04, 2016, 08:35:19 AM
And when you say proper sized rim, you mean a different rim other than the stock one right?
correct :thumb: the 150 & 120 mix aren't ideal on stock rim widths. have a look through the thread and you'll find the answer to what you're likely about to ask =P :icon_razz:
annnnnnd another post.
after lots of trial and tribulation... and things 'testing' fine on multiple occasions i got to the bottom of my hard starting. left hand side ht lead had stripped itself from the coil and was sitting loose so that it would still run but give weak spark and intermittent problems, its been like that for ages, obviously it explains why one plug had been fouling and one was running slightly lean. luckily i had a spare coil set in my pocket as I've been waiting for something to fail :icon_rolleyes: so i popped a new lead and cap on and boom no more problems. had the bike stripped down at the side of the road to sort and accidentally left the new coil on the back of the bike and its fallen off or at the side of the road :icon_rolleyes: damn... couldn't find it again. so I've lost a new coil. the bike is running sweet again on both cylinders though, I've felt like it was just a bit lethargic for ages and finally its back to normal.
//
excuse the sooty plug on the left, been playing with the carbs a lot recently and i'm still dialling the tune in. got my new brisk plugs, bike is running much sharper on them :thumb: however my ngk r's are a couple of years old and have been fouled countless / cleaned times so i couldn't say they were hands down better but its running crisper than the ngks were when freshly cleaned. just need to dial in the tune still haha like maybe one day i'll finish fiddling with the carbs, thats it running well enough that I'm not just pi...ss...ing against the wind with them. oh back to picking a main jet again :cheers:
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/1/438/31625283885_8858121186_c.jpg)
turns out that even on the new ht lead and cap albeit lesser i was still having issues with what is a wet weather running issue. aka 13/14 days because scottish winters are awesome :woohoo: :icon_rolleyes:
just to show whats causing the problem here,
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/501/31580081502_cbd3f50e6f_c.jpg)
every time i'm out in the wet this area is bombarded by water and road grime. not ideal really, our roads are gritted with salt at winter. so yeah i was out the other night and the bike started dropping a cyl again after have thought it was remedied so i pulled up, wiped the water from the coil and lead and boom the bike burbling away happy again. it's kind of understandable when you see how much muck is getting sprayed up at them and it doesn't help that the tyres are shitflickers haha
so the solution.
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/339/31689293446_cc623867d0_c.jpg)
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5614/31580073492_d3d2c4615c_c.jpg)
should've taken pics with it off the bike but hey ho. what i've done is use some amalgamating tape (self bonding, no adhesive, magical fix everything silicone based tape) to seal the ends of the ht lead before putting the cap on, rubber seal and on the coil end i've put in on the inside of its seal and over the outside once screwed into the coil as well. both left and right ht leads and cleaned the connections up with wd40. that should be it sealed up right but i'm going to need to make a shield to stop the shitflicking up into the coil area and up over the engine and carbs. the oldschool way of insulating coils and leads would be to use bicycle inner tube to wrap the whole thing.
turned out the rhs ht lead had stripped itself on the coil end as well, so that has been replaced.
//
think i've got the carbs in a state of 90% tune, bike was slightly hard starting when cold and smelt very fuelly' from the exhaust at idle so i took the air/mix screw in a quarter turn and it seems to be very happy to start. there is however a tiny bit of bog in between 1/4 & 1/2 throttle which i'll need to play with. all it will take is a hour or 2 to get it dialled in to 99% but finding the time is a challenge. i think with tuning theres always going to be a bit of sacrifice, like top end power usually is better when its a little on the lean side but then you don't want to be running flat out lean for lengthy periods do you.
current tune is back on
150 mains
40 pilots
needle lifted one notch
and i think i'm on 3 & 1/4 turns out on the air/mix.
//
finally shimmed out the headlight clamps so that they don't rattle about :icon_lol: what a difference for night time riding hahaha
had to replace the front left indicator as it disintegrated basically. luckily i had a spare one to match.
also took the bike offroad for the first time, it was only for a little bit but the tyres sure grip in. also bottomed out the forks on an unexpected hole off road... OUCH, did i say ouch? yeah ouch hahaha :icon_eek: definitely not enough travel on those forks for anything serious.
really need to give the bike a good deep clean, think its been another week of filth since that picture.
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5592/30885347134_3c69977973_c.jpg)
wee update:
still been having a spot of bother with the left cyl dropping out and being an intermittent dickhead when it pleases but everything ive done so far to remedy it makes it seem to stop happening for a while but then again it might just be doing what it does regardless haha so whilst i was checking everything out previously i noted that the ignition pickup for the left coil was giving out funny readings, ie reading in spec then jumping out then jumping in but sometimes multimeters can give readings like that so i didn't think much of it. after the last success of sealing up the connections to the coil and it running almost spot on again the problem came back. ordered up a ignition pulse generator.
prior to installation i started the bike effortlessly and it idled like a champ, tested the new pulse gen and it was in spec, so had to crimp a new terminal on as it had been damaged by the PO
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/601/31772922480_392979c158_c.jpg)
no biggie but crimping non insulated terminals is deeply satisfying. :cookoo: so anyway once installed the bike wouldn't run on both cyls... :dunno_black: so it wasn't that causing the problem. once checking that there was actually spark on the left side i then proceeded to run test wire from the cdi box straight to the left coil connections just to prove there wasn't a fault in the wiring causing it not to spark in relation to the pulse gen, this solved nothing. electrically there is only the cdi box itself which is open to question but it looks like theres good strong consistent spark so i'm straying away from it being an electrical problem for now which leaves the fuel side of things and valve clearances. its not typical that valve clearances give intermittent problems like I'm getting, typically they just don't run right when hot as the clearance tightens up even more and respectively if they were loose i would hear it. mines has been hard starting then once warm or if you give it some revs it springs back into 2 cyls usually but it's been getting worse as of recent.
anyway with the above issue still happening ie. strong spark but not firing on left side, i chapped the bottom of the carb bowl just to make sure the needle wasn't sticking shut or something this didn't aid it in running after a good couple of tries to start it so i pulled the k&n off so i could see into the inlet to visually check the fuel misting and boom it started on the button as happy and lively as ever... odd so after a couple of revs i turned it off, threw the filter back on and boom started on the button again. pulled the filter off again just to continue checking the slides were working right and that visually everything seemed alright.
definitely there was a spark problem to begin with even if it was just a couple of things adding up to create weak spark. at this point ive got an incline towards it possibly being fuel related but for the time being its back to behaving itself and its running better than ever with all the ignition elements getting refreshed.
trouble shooting when you're dealing with symptoms like this is a colossal pain, they're completely illogical :icon_rolleyes:
i've obviously been through and cleaned the carbs countless times, i need to check that the float is still doing its thing and check the levels, also replace the needle seat o-rings for peace of mind but for the time being she is A-OK again... if the issues redevelops i'm going to set up my spare set of carbs and throw them on just so that i can rule something out, i really dont think there's anything in regard to the carbs thats causing this kind of problem, it's the intermittent nature throwing me.
i could do with visually checking with the filter off when it's refusing to run on both cyls just to see whats happening there.
//
once had the filter pop off by itself so i keep it secured, got a wee bit of safety wire on it this now.
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/1/446/31306417654_4789447469_c.jpg)
made up a wee shield to aid in stopping the sprayback in wet weather out of a cut up inner tube, haven't been out in the wet yet but here's hoping its enough to stop the coil area and carbs getting bombarded by road grime. see what happens.
(https://c3.staticflickr.com/1/583/32109422786_2962674611_c.jpg)
well... i've been having a riot sliding around on the gs last night when there was a good dusting of snow and then again today when there was 3-4'' in places :D :icon_twisted: :cheers: :icon_mrgreen:
really quite impressed with the tkc80s on snow :thumb: not so good on sheet ice but then other than studded tyres or tracks... what is :icon_lol:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/268/31439426524_e518a62887_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/334/32161297641_3a322f3d1b_c.jpg)
If my bike was together it wouldn't even consider thinking about beginning to try to start in these temps, and its only been down to -1 here in Norwich! Glad you're having a great time though bud, ride safe :thumb:
Chris
O0
Quote from: the_63 on January 13, 2017, 11:34:15 AM
If my bike was together it wouldn't even consider thinking about beginning to try to start in these temps, and its only been down to -1 here in Norwich! Glad you're having a great time though bud, ride safe :thumb:
Chris
O0
haha yeahh gotta say the bike starts on the button at the moment, even in the subzeros although the carbs are still in need of fettling :thumb: cheers though man haha still waiting for some more snow to play in :icon_mrgreen: its so much having a bike that if you drop it you just shrug it off and slide about some more.
so its the dreaded mot time at the end of this week, going to have to amend a couple of things prior though so i'll be off the road for a wee bit. insurance and tax are up the same day as well.
shock knuckle bearings need done again... theres a bit of swingarm play, ive bought another knuckle but it seems to need a bearing. think ive sussed out a cheap way to do it rather than pay for suzuki's non standard size bearing. think its a 20x27x26 needle that atatches the knuckle to the frame but its a speciality to suzuki and costs £30!! i've found 20x27x25 which means its 1mm narrower but that shouldnt make any odds to its use and at £5.39 its worth trying it out.
^ the second knuckle i got is from a 92' bike and is a much more substantial looking item to the the usual gs one that everyone has, i'll throw a pic up when i get a chance. different part number as is the relative dogbones / shock so i'm hoping its still the same geometry but i'll just have to see what like it is. looks like it will be easier to clean but theres no other advantage.
i also need to put some appropriate brake lines on so i'll need to measure up what i need and take it from there.
front brake has a sticky piston. i hate 6pots :icon_rolleyes:
also need to mount the speedo a little sturdier and throw the chain guard on.
just a couple of small things really, it would probably pass as it is but theres no point mucking around.
update.
insurance etc is up at the moment. bike was running like crap again so pulled the filter off and ran the bike, it was stumbling, cutting out then spitting back through one carb. soo... its likely valve clearance time.
pulled the carbs for a clean, some debris in the bowl but not too bad. pulled apart and setup my spare carbs to see how it would run on them using the best of parts combined and reset the float height. i didn't expect it to make a difference it was purely experimental. it made zero odds to the bike running
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/668/32662124976_838338984b_c.jpg)
i remember why i wound up with 3 sets :icon_rolleyes: spares had a pilot with a stripped head. managed to free it with some abuse to open it out and then a torx bit hammered in.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/441/32662125666_4cf1931c60_c.jpg)
the needles in the spare set (middle 2) have a completely different taper to the typical 5dh9 pre 01' needles, ive got a sneaking suspicion that they might be dynojet.
turns out the other knuckle i picked up isn't any different haha i'm just a nugget.
someone has punched the bearing out and pressed a brass collar into it though which kinda sucks
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/334/31859862214_e176fe63d0_c.jpg)
whereas it should be needle bearing like this knackered one
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/388/32580378311_8c874510e5_c.jpg)
i reckon the brass collar has been someone's cheap fix in the past but its not exactly ideal, need to get it pressed out and see hope the knuckle wasn't altered to make it work and that i can throw bearing in.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/404/31917374183_2f67bff856_c.jpg)
purely for my own entertainment purposes, bent an allen key from the spares box to hold the exhaust. rewired the bottom one as the other allen keys i tried to use just wanted to snap. :icon_eek:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/551/31887825064_8d28a34016_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/742/32351306260_bcc05de8a4_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/559/32731076805_e92ae38466_c.jpg)
using spare lines that are also miles too long i thought i'd share the front line routing i'm going to go for. think i spoke before about how i was going to go for an over mudguard style setup, i had everything measured up and was about to bite the bullet but had a realisation. i plan on going for a high mount mudguard eventually which would make and over the mudguard style setup useless. so using a bit of forethought i want to put a clamp to the bottom of the bottom yoke/triple and run the left hand line up the fork leg to that point before transferring to the other side and meeting the right hand line, all going well this should give me a bit more flexibility in the future. the build really has strayed away from my original intent, its not so much about making something with a bit more handling prowess is it, i guess i can always put road tyres back on it... right :icon_lol:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/754/31887828684_c0846ce607_c.jpg)
also measured my static sag to take into consideration the line length, my sag 17mm, is far too little haha but obviously you need to think about the line not getting pulled tight when the forks extend fully. really need to drop a little oil out the forks to help get the sag a spot closer and soften things up but its not important right now. ive gotten used to it but it's still brutally stiff.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/679/32690684556_708209faf1_c.jpg)
marked the centre of the banjo on the line, rounded the 17mm sag up to 25mm to allow for wider bars and the routing perhaps needing changed a little. need to get a second set of hands to hold the line out straight so i can get measurement on the red lines though. hopefully get the new ones ordered up tomorrow.
bit of a boring update but i guess but a lot of people don't really post this stuff and unless you've thought it through you're not likely to get line length right so hey it might help someone out.
the weathers been pitiful so i haven't managed to get into measure the valve clearances, its a job for tomorrow if its not raining though. :bowdown:
didn't manage to get into it for valve adjustment today, its been raining on and off and i lost my feeler gauge haha did do a little tidying up and give the rocker cover area and frame etc a good clean so that there is no loose debris which might fall into the cams. also replaced my cable ties holding the speedo with a nice sturdy metal bracket :icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol: definetly not just a big jubilee clip.. honest :cheers: :D
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/357/32748877305_4e698d2276_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2263/31948324444_82e5da690a_c.jpg)
another boring update. 6 pots are stripped, cleaned, pistons polished, rubber is all greased with the correct thick red dot hydraulic grease and the slide pins with the clear silicon stuff. :thumb: so satisfying to put back together. also surprising how much crud had gathered on the lips of the pistons over just a couple of months, proper thick nasty crusty stuff.
waiting on new brake lines now. doing the carbs today, bought 2 rebuild kits as the needle seat, float needle and o-ring sets weren't much cheaper. kind of glad because the float bowl gasket has since sprout a leak! good timing! i'm usually the guy telling people not to fuss with rebuild kits but in this instance it made sense but really 9/10 times theres obviously no need for it if you're just pulling carbs for a clean.
i've been reading up on symptoms of burnt or broken valves and it actually sounds a bit like some things i've experienced but the bike is still going strong. i've had a rattle in my exhaust since november, heres hoping its not a bit of valve stuck or something haha i'm probably just overthinking this :icon_rolleyes: i hope its not dying, the plan was always to engine swap it with something interesting when mines died and i'm just not in the financial position to take that kind of job on at the moment. nah it can be broken valve in the exhaust haha i'm being stupid, i would've been able to shake it back out if it were a fragment that small :icon_lol: its probably just clearances needing adjusted.
This picture makes me want to buy a second GS to replicate your build. That's a good lookin' rambler. Nice work. :bowdown:
Quote from: iamhiding on December 18, 2016, 01:12:19 PM
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5592/30885347134_3c69977973_c.jpg)
Quote from: Suzi Q on February 09, 2017, 07:57:40 AM
This picture makes me want to buy a second GS to replicate your build. That's a good lookin' rambler. Nice work. :bowdown:
Quote from: iamhiding on December 18, 2016, 01:12:19 PM
haha thanks SuziQ :thumb: great bikes for it. it's a lot of time, work and money even when you're trying not to spend anything. its far too easy to underestimate a project, i can guarantee i've spent hundreds of hours swearing at my gs.
i will say appreciate but don't replicate, gotta put your own twist on it with what's available to you :cheers: that and largely the way I've done things just isn't the way to go about them, to me the bike is just commitment to a joke no one else is in on... it's just a giggle, something which sums me up pretty well but most things have been done with the quickest, most cost efficient and creative means of making things work whilst still be safe to ride albeit dubiously. :icon_lol: keep me posted if you do start a project, i'd love to see it SuziQ :thumb:
oh where are we? still off the road at the moment, bike seems to be running quite happy again all by itself, had to go buy a new vernier calliper, feeler gauge and picked up the right tool for pushing the buckets down to get the valve shims out but i haven't gotten round to it yet.
had problems with the carb rebuild kit, after cutting old brittle o-rings off things i noticed that the needle seat is a different height and that the float needle was different to what i had. i tried the new seats and needles but just couldn't get the float height in spec due to the different height in the needle and seat. in hindsight i could've used the seat as its shorter outer section shouldn't of made any odds. because i had ruined the old o-rings i would've had to return the kit i had, buy a more expensive one elsewhere and also source the o-rings on top of that so it was going to cost a fortune. had to make the most of a crap situation, always check your parts before fitting folks :icon_rolleyes:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2003/32735460691_4e396b9196_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2114/32477850340_68cb4d1a96_c.jpg)
got my fresh brake lines made to spec
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3820/32858996055_618da81c82_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3775/32016140784_3e0a53755e_c.jpg)
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(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2726/32044286633_70f2ae4c9b_c.jpg)
line routing is much tidier and like i said before it should allow me to use a high mount mudguard although the left line is slightly too long in the mean time.
left the top banjo unhooked, pushed fluid from the bleed nipple up to the banjo on both callipers and bolted it up again to prime them ready for bleeding. bled the majority of it up through the master using the lever flick and line tap techniques and only had to do minimal bleeding at the callipers. it's not as quick as the vacuum method but it saved me so much time, 6 pots can be hell to bleed.
brakes were incredibly sticky still...
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2697/32915704631_7a8706e617_c.jpg)
nut and bolt through the floating spacers, spun them all and cleaned with brake cleaner. the disks are nice and floaty again. also pushed the pads/pistons back in and brought them back to the disk with the lever. still stickier than i'd like but i'm hoping they just need worked a bit. also should check the front wheel bearings come to think of it.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/479/32705444432_eabd9a3715_c.jpg)
fiddly jobs outside in the snow are the best one's... honestly :icon_rolleyes: so cold haha
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2687/32915708621_b8b06b9072_c.jpg)
managed to find my chainguard, almost had to make one from scratch but it somehow wound up in the brothers shed with a pile of his bike bits. cant wait to pull it back off after the MOT.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/756/32226948293_f6e8b5e69f_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3813/32886251782_f4ce0767f9_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3686/32226950593_ff6e982ec3_c.jpg)
bit irrelevant but i was playing about with a old broken set of dominators and eyeing up a way of mounting them as flush as i could to the forks. just a bit of experimentation really, i'm not actually sure if i'd use them because dom light output is absolutely awful. awwwwwful. and i ride a lot at night on country roads.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2223/32669760950_f47f6519b4_c.jpg)
got over to my friend with the 100 tonne press and got that copper bush out and new bearing in, still to check if the inner collar from the old knuckle will work with the bearing but its the right dimensions so it should be issue free.
going back to the original GS dogbones to drop the height and hopefully get the thunderace shock in this time now that the swingarm is ground and i've got time to play, the shock will lift it back up to a similar height ie its current 2" lift.
thats my job for today but its a bit of a pain with one set of hands and not the right setup for controlling the back end.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2534/33010115716_cd6ffb2a05_c.jpg)
and here's the tool for pushing the shim buckets down LASER 6519
Those brake lines look super cool!!! I hope to get some of them for my bike in the future.
Still loving your updates and pics :D
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on February 22, 2017, 12:05:26 PM
Those brake lines look super cool!!! I hope to get some of them for my bike in the future.
Still loving your updates and pics :D
thanks showbiz :thumb: with the original forks and brake setup a braided line and half decent pads are basically a necessity, the gs front brake used to scare the hell out of me... saying that it depends how one rides doesn't it :icon_rolleyes: :icon_lol: cheap cheap modification as well if you avoid the big brands like HEL.
wee update //
thats the knuckle back in the bike so i can verify thats a clever way to replace that damn expensive oem bearing :thumb: the thunderace shock is still a no go, not without removing much more material than i already have so i'm just going to keep it as is until a cheap wp 750 / r6 one or something pops up at the right time. or maybe you really do need to remove more material to compensate the wider spring, i'm not really sure about the spring width comparison between the ace and known fits but it's more than i'm comfortable to grind out for the time being without knowing whats safe to remove.
bike is mot'd, taxed, insured and it's so good to be back on the road after 3 weeks off :cheers:
still waiting for a half decent day to do the valve clearances though :icon_rolleyes: soon though, i've got all the tools and a pile of shims from a spare wp 750 motor i've got, with some luck i wont have to buy any. either way it seems to be happy to run cold again.
Quote from: iamhiding on February 25, 2017, 08:06:44 AM
wee update //
thats the knuckle back in the bike so i can verify thats a clever way to replace that damn expensive oem bearing :thumb: the thunderace shock is still a no go, not without removing much more material than i already have so i'm just going to keep it as is until a cheap wp 750 / r6 one or something pops up at the right time. or maybe you really do need to remove more material to compensate the wider spring, i'm not really sure about the spring width comparison between the ace and known fits but it's more than i'm comfortable to grind out for the time being without knowing whats safe to remove.
bike is mot'd, taxed, insured and it's so good to be back on the road after 3 weeks off :cheers:
still waiting for a half decent day to do the valve clearances though :icon_rolleyes: soon though, i've got all the tools and a pile of shims from a spare wp 750 motor i've got, with some luck i wont have to buy any. either way it seems to be happy to run cold again.
Good luck finding a cheap R6 shock, so far it's cheaper to import from America than to buy U.K. Cheapest eBay I've seen lately was £120, you can pay for the unit, postage and VAT by like £5. You also need to change out the bearing for the new shock too (according to slippery mongoose) which is nearly an extra £30.
Chris
O0
Good luck finding a cheap R6 shock, so far it's cheaper to import from America than to buy U.K. Cheapest eBay I've seen lately was £120, you can pay for the unit, postage and VAT by like £5. You also need to change out the bearing for the new shock too (according to slippery mongoose) which is nearly an extra £30.
Chris
O0
[/quote]
yeah haha they're a bit scarce aren't they, you see them occasionally and at all sorts of prices 50-150+, i was offered an 06' r6 shock which is the earliest that'd work if i mind right for £60 delivered about 2 months ago but the timing just wasn't good for me, ebay isn't always the best place to look and ebay prices aren't often that good, better speaking to breakers for bits that aren't online so you don't have to pay ebay or paypal fees.
always the same with seeing cheap bits in the US isn't it haha
bearings are cheap enough to do it seems but i doubt it would come to that, more likely a case of finding a inner spacer to match the bolt or getting a spacer made up or adapted or so i would've thought but obviously i've never done it :icon_lol:
i've got a couple of shocks sitting that i could make work, the thunderace obviously, 2x cbr600f3, emc racing shock for a cbr600f3 and a hyper pro for a gsxr11. was offered an sv shock for free but it's seen better days. thing is i'm eyeing up an alloy swingarm swap so i'm not overly fussed about putting a more substantial shock in this now.
theres a good shock comparison page on customfighters, good for length/stroke but additional research is needed to find things that will actually work.
what it's really going to boil down to is whats cost effective nearer the time i'm doing it as i'm not really spending any money on the thing as such.
I have a Kat shock in good condition...
Quote from: J_Walker on February 27, 2017, 10:07:54 AM
I have a Kat shock in good condition...
ohhhhh tempting, even more so if you're in the uk :thumb: i really shouldn't right now though :icon_lol:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3781/33225057405_5362ef66e7_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3934/32410190783_ff403d720f_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/629/33183324126_d055c627ea_c.jpg)
had a good mostly dry sunny day so rather than doing valve clearances i blew out some cobwebs :icon_rolleyes: :D
finally sussed out the tyre pressures that seems to feel right 30/30 psi
i'm really quite impressed with the tyres when its dry though, was smashing the corners and it didn't feel out of place once, still need to keep it in mind that they will never be as good as actual road tyres though haha best not forget, don't fancy another broken back. :icon_rolleyes:
couple of wee things i've done.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2598/32674123320_ccd22140fd_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2051/32674123140_2b9c7cb389_c.jpg)
made a wee guard to try keep road crap from flinging back to the filter, haven't checked to see if it helps yet.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2054/32674123150_92274d3c15_c.jpg)
grommet in the brake cable guide to stop rubbing, p-clip on the line to stop torque arm contact and one to stop the swingarm contact, these will be replaced with grommets when ever i can be bothered, it was just to get it through an mot.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2907/32975763200_d010f0e040_c.jpg)
just gave the bike a bath for the first time in weeks, also gave the exhaust a quick rub down with a scotchbrite pad just to get all the salty nastiness off.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/741/33358395775_67e7ae0834_c.jpg)
this edge on the left hand side of the tank had begun to rub back to bare metal in places from knee wear so i took a sanding block and brought it in all the way along just for giggles, might do the other side as well. kinda dig it. plan on stripping the tank eventually anyway
good news, the guards i made up are definitely stopping crud getting to the filter :cheers:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3764/33454225126_5d64f77cd7_c.jpg)
whipped the back wheel off last week to investigate weirdness in the drivetrain. noticed the wheel bearings were staring to go again :dunno_black: left wheel spacer is pretty worn on one side so thats likely the culprit, flipped it around so the wider side sits into the sprocket carrier. it'll do until i replace it. rattled it back together and kept riding it.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2849/32806088954_1a07668da1_c.jpg)
whipped it off again to do the bearings. bearings turned up next day so wheel off, fresh bearings in and back together in under 45 mins :thumb:not bad haha but there is still weirdness in the drivetrain. i suspect its either a worn front sprocket or tight spots in the chain, yet to investigate further but its a clicky sound when rolling the bike.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2851/33519410991_504193ddd3_c.jpg)
pulled the six pots off again, pumped the pistons out a bit one by one, cleaned the crud off them and sprayed them with ptfe spray before pushing them back in. the pad slider pins were heavily grooved so they've been replaced. it's stopped a lot of the brake drag i was getting and stopped the pads clicking when first applied, its a common problem on the old nissin 6pots.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2836/32855156453_b444a773e5_c.jpg)
pulled a bucket off of my spare wp 750 motor and unfortunately its a completely different size of shim to the gs's, so none to play with.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3792/33284253170_2bbfc32cd4_c.jpg)
pulled the rocker cover off and got stuck into measuring the clearance and checking shims.
although three are out of spec i'm only planning on replacing those which are too tight. suzuki recommended tolerances are between 0.03 & 0.08mm. it's the first time i've done clearances myself but this has been my process.
so mines measured as follows:
Left Exhaust - between 0.10 and 0.13 /// Right Exhaust - 0.08
Left Intake - smaller than 0.03 /// Right Intake - tighter than 0.03
all the shims measured 2.6mm
because clearances tighten over time the left exhaust will fall into spec eventually and its not too far out, certainly not rattling so its fine by me.
so using 0.02 as the median as i cant measure below 0.03, you add the current shim size to establish the area you're currently working with. 0.02 + 2.6 = 2.62
subtract the high end of tolerance 0.08 to find the shim size you need (2.62 - 0.08 = 2.44)
it looks like i need a 2.45 for both the intakes. the shims come in increments of 5 (2.45 / 2.50 / 2.55) conveniently it falls near a size where the numbers work out for me but... my vernier calliper only measures to 1 decimal point and for all intensive purposes the shims might be 2.48 or 2.54 etc so worst case scenario with the medians i'm using the clearance might fall to the lower end of spec even though i'm aiming to get it to the higher end of it. as long as its back in spec i'm happy and damn shims are expensive! £16.50 for 2 shims! so heres hoping my working is close enough.
i've rattled everything back together so i can ride but hopefully the new shims turn up so i can finish the job midweek.
in all honesty its really not a difficult job, just need to line up the timing mark and have the right tools for the job. the only thing that was difficult was the tool for depressing the buckets at first as theres a knack to it but thats nothing really and running out of daylight. definitely wouldn't attempt it without a magnet for pulling the shims out. theres a good write up on beergarage or a decent walkthrough on youtube.
:cheers:
also considering dropping another tooth on the front sprocket to 13t... :icon_rolleyes: i know its stupid but gearing changes are cheap fun and 13/45 would be hilarious even if the bike no longer hit a gps 102mph anymore. hoping the valve clearances restore a bit of power as up top its been feeling very flat recently.
had to re-grind the steering lock as well as it was starting to stick when turning but its all good now. started making a proper spacer for the stem/topyoke as sometimes it will click and i meant to do it properly ages ago haha. actually done lots of little bits of housekeeping with the gs over the last 2 weeks and it rides much better for it.
quick superglue repair with the old black mudguard, its not the way to do it but if it works it works right. better looking than the random blue one one i'm using so i'll have to pop it on when I've got a chance until i do the high mount one. have to be careful when making quick brackets up as to not make any stress points because it's just a matter of time until something breaks, lesson learned.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2871/32865425414_c9c972cf9e_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2836/32865427624_a3457d4082_c.jpg)
old stem spacer vs new on the right, its not perfect but its a better fit than before, even if i had to pad it out with tape to make a couple of tenths back up.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3835/33551797822_b8a0f3d61d_c.jpg)
swapped back to my lesser bent bars, forgot how wide they are haha and the r&g bar ends make them look even bigger, trials and mx bars arent really right for the application but i have them and they look pretty sweet and well they're not as bent as the others. i did have to drop the yokes through the forks to gain a little extra brake line room though, about 10mm which given that the forks are already quite shorter than the oem gs forks isn't ideal. cant remember the figures but i'll have written them on here somewhere.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3710/32865439864_624145f17a_c.jpg)
was playing about with an alloy brake torque arm as well as a brace haha but i'll pull it off at some point, was just playing.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2926/33551796722_50f815264e_c.jpg)
proper tight fight getting it through my gate :icon_lol:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2819/33578803371_188337e198_c.jpg)
Not sure if I've arrived in time, but Z1 has suzi shims for $5 a piece, which is about the cheapest way I've found to buy them new. Only in .05 increments though.
https://www.z1enterprises.com/catalogsearch/result/?cat=&q=valve+shim+29.5
Quote from: Suzi Q on March 28, 2017, 05:18:46 PM
Not sure if I've arrived in time, but Z1 has suzi shims for $5 a piece, which is about the cheapest way I've found to buy them new. Only in .05 increments though.
https://www.z1enterprises.com/catalogsearch/result/?cat=&q=valve+shim+29.5
thanks SuziQ :thumb: i'm not in the US unfortunately so i'd get hit with international postage costs and import tax when they arrived :sad: thats damn near half the price of what i found mines for on the cheap :o :o :o
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2941/33681302262_8a58e45845_c.jpg)
removed the silly bar brace as well.
something really satisfying about oem suzuki packaging. but yeah thats my clearances finally done :icon_lol: done the two intakes and rattled it back together with 25-30 mins.
Left Exhaust - between 0.12 /// Right Exhaust - 0.08
Left Intake - 0.07 /// Right Intake - 0.09
back to being healthy and damn what a power gain low down and in the midrange. valve clearances are super important it seems :icon_lol:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3837/33837110215_0d4babf11f_c.jpg)
i was reading about using hydrochloric acid (bleach, strong toilet bowl cleaner, alloy wheel cleaner) to clean stainless and damn it works quick and effortlessly. this was just a little experiment and strictly speaking its not good for the metal but in a weak mixture it shouldn't make much odds. obviously its not a replacement for removing pitting like i've got but for cleaning and stain removal WOOOOW...
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3928/33023776653_c9475779d3_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2917/33837103445_54f4a021b6_c.jpg)
literally brushed it on left it 30 seconds, and all the staining brushed off with very little agitation using a cheap paintbrush. stunned by how effortless it is. for the record i like the staining haha i was just curious as to how well it would actually work.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2843/33023777833_5ff2ccecda_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2818/33707931151_7a687f2e9b_c.jpg)
playing about with a silly exhaust i'm making an undertail with on the cbr at some point. threw it on for a laugh, started the bike and took it straight back off haha it's far too open without a baffle and the short perforated cores. didn't sound good just over the top loud and the gs sounds rotten on over run without a proper exhaust. so yeah straight back off but i've whipped the baffle out the extreme gp can and its at the lower end of being intolerable and just obnoxious. all good fun either way. that slash cut XG1 could be pretty sweet looking if positioned well but not like i had it thrown on.
//
the bike is running so good with the valves done, whipping the baffle out just stumped the top end power though. probably throw the baffle back in and finally get the carbs dialled in :cheers: i really do reckon a lot of the carb woes i've had have been down to the valves needing done. heres hoping anyway.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2828/32995490124_0eaeecfd29_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2883/33683004552_d11fa3620f_c.jpg)
thought i'd even it up to match the sanded back lines on the left side, started bringing in the bottom edge as well. just playing but i'm liking how it's panning out. just need to tidy up a couple of bits
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2875/33795547992_c86d522780_c.jpg)
check out all the gunk under the front sprocket cover/area, cleaned that out about 6 months ago (ish)
just checking out some unusual drives train noise and checking out the spacer scenario for when i put the road tyres back on soon.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2897/33823139101_765292f356_c.jpg)
i suspect the heavily hooked teeth are part of the problem.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2873/33912322586_26924c2e69_c.jpg)
check out the 14t hooked teeth vs a new JT 16t profile that i had lying spare. think mines is well worn out.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2808/33795565672_fdebd9b396_c.jpg)
the protruding area for creating the correct offset was marginally longer on the renthal front, just over 1mm i reckon vs the JT front. its a bit odd to me as both front sprockets are meant for the bike. i was reading that roughly 0.08 - 1.2mm in offset difference between front and rear sprockets is safe enough, don't hold me to that, i'll have to find and post the source. do your own research but ideally you want it spot on though.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2840/33795559092_6fdda3cc1f_c.jpg)
so this is the JT front with a 3mm spacer behind it, you can see that the sprocket covers the groove for the circlip.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3950/33795541892_d465bc2c75_c.jpg)
once again this is spaced out 3mm and i've placed the circlip on the end of the countershaft just to see if theres enough space to re-groove the shaft and just use the clip to secure the sprocket but it's a bit too close to the taper on the edge to be safe i think.
i might've discussed this on here before but my plan is to drill and tap the centre of the countershaft so i can put a bolt and some kind of spacer in to secure the front sprocket. typically any front sprocket that uses a nut has some kind of locking tab or another bolt in the end of the shaft to prevent the sprocket slipping off should it come loose so i'll need to devise some kind of means as to prevent the bolt coming right out. i've got a couple of idea but i'll just have to see what happens.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2844/33109681824_df537aba3a_c.jpg)
so for the time being i've thrown the spare 16t on with a 1mm spacer to pick up some of the slack behind it. it rattles much less on the shaft than the renthal and the inside teeth are in much better shape as well so it's good to see just how much harder the steel countershaft is vs a sprocket. cleaned all the road and chain gunk out as well.
i'm hoping the shaft is easy enough to drill and tap without removing it from the engine :icon_rolleyes:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2812/33568073550_1ccb7fea88_c.jpg)
my ghetto exhaust hanger broke when removing the extreme gp can so for the time being i had to throw the old viper stubby on. not as good looking but its got a really good burble.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2816/33953141335_933b4d4071_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2876/33912262366_bb1f302be9_c.jpg)
i think my current jetting is quite a bit out with the change of can, i wouldn't of thought it would make much odds with them being both very open so theres a bit of playing about there. i also jetted it before sorting the valve clearances so it's needing going over to get it right anyway.
a word on the gearing. as much fun as i had with the -2/+5 (14/44), it's no use for anything other than wheelies and sitting at 90mph+ is borderline strenuous. it was good fun but the bike is much more usable now that i'm back to something sensible. currently just +5 on the rear (16/44) which is roughly the equivalent of dropping 2 front teeth and i still reckon this is the optimal gearing for the bike, it unleashes a bit more acceleration and a little bit of top speed as well. -2t on the front or +5t (ish) on the rear is the way to go if you want a little more go out of the gs.
on the -2/+5 by the time my back tyre wore down top speed had dropped to an oem speedo indicated 96-100 mph, ignoring the 16% speedo inaccuracy, and that was with the bike bouncing off the limiter. damn quick though haha :icon_lol: :icon_mrgreen:
ps i know i shouldn't be putting new sprockets on old chains etc but i'm really not fussed for their longevity, it's all been purely experimental.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2944/33653686190_68df2879aa_c.jpg)
put my wee trumpet back on with a baffle, used a big quick release jubilee clip as a hanger :icon_lol: will it continue to scratch the can to hell... yup. do i care... nope :icon_lol: :icon_rolleyes: :icon_mrgreen:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3948/33226551563_080ff621cf_c.jpg)
gave the carbs a quick sync, quite impressed managed to do it in 5 minutes, just propped the back of the tank up to get access. they were only one line out on the gauge which isn't exactly much, but it's always amazing just how much better a bike runs when the carbs are synced. (ignore the red area on the gauge, i zero the gauges differently to standard so its easier to read)
took the bike out for a thrash to plug check it and definitely running rich up top, fouled plugs and performance gets better as it gets hotter. kinda crazy that ages ago on a scorching hot day with the viper stubby before the valves were done 152.5 mains were spot on, then it was too rich when cold on an average day. so 150's were used, which has been pretty much right on the various exhaust setups since minus there being an imbalance due to the valve clearances and now that the valve clearances are done and carbs are synced, 150s are too rich :icon_lol: :cookoo:
carbs are clean, fresh o-rings for the needle seat etc, float needles are good, no unusual or worn out items. i'm kind of curious just how big an effect the float height on running, i've set them to their highest spec and other than the valve clearances being done thats the only change made even though it wasn't recent. so i'm going to put the float heights to the lowest point of spec to see how it reacts before spending money on jets.
nothing i cant deal with, i just think it's odd.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2878/33881397512_9cfd2a41d4_c.jpg)
cant help but take pictures of it :icon_mrgreen: going to be back on road tyres soon enough.
Really diggin' that exhaust... glad to see it back on :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on April 14, 2017, 03:17:15 PM
Really diggin' that exhaust... glad to see it back on :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen:
thanks showbiz :icon_mrgreen: me too, the black mudguard as well :cheers:
it really does make all the difference.
Lookin bad ass. I really dig the look of it. It looks like a end of the world bike. :cheers:
... cue Walking Dead music! this could be Daryll's bike for the next season? :thumb:
This is a really sharp build, and anything but just another build.
Quote from: Suzi Q on April 20, 2017, 06:14:28 PM
This is a really sharp build, and anything but just another build.
well... i guess in the grand scheme of things it's just another gs500 hack job isn't it. it's nothing that hasn't been done before, it ticks a lot of the right boxes but she's ratty and ghetto'd together. all part of the charm i reckon, glad you dig it.
Quote from: Endopotential on April 15, 2017, 09:57:57 AM
... cue Walking Dead music! this could be Daryll's bike for the next season? :thumb:
can you imagine haha but to be honest perhaps it would be a bit more realistic? i dunno i guess they tied the story up pretty well to justify the parts on his bike but then again perhaps a bit far fetched to end up with that wild cb750 of his laden with new r6 bits. either way how cool is darryl's bike :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: The fink on April 14, 2017, 08:45:12 PM
Lookin bad ass. I really dig the look of it. It looks like a end of the world bike. :cheers:
can you guess i watched my fair share of madmax and dystopian themed movies growing up :icon_mrgreen: :icon_lol: just a fun little project to amuse myself, glad you dig it :thumb: :cheers: just wish i didnt need a number plate and indicators on it :icon_rolleyes:
definitely been a a dynojet setup in my spare carbs, aggressive needles and the sliders drilled tapped and plugged. cant remember what main jets were in them but it was mikuni rather than DJ and it was set up for a standard filter and exhaust i reckon.
DJ, Mikuni and Keihn work with there own scales so for example a 122.5 mikuni is equivalent to 130 DJ or 140 Keihn. Another thing to take into consideration is that because the DJ needles are so aggressively tapered to let more fuel in and sooner they use smaller mains to compensate part of the trickle down effect from the main when jetting i think, if you look up a jetting chart you'll see that the main jet trickles down effecting the half and quarter throttle.
so for example i was experimenting with the DJ parts in my carbs and found that the 147.5 mains that seem perfect on the normal mikuni gs needles and sliders were far too rich with the dj parts. in saying that the 1/8 - 1/3 throttle felt so sharp, nothing like it does normally but from 1/2 throttle onwards it was faaaaar too rich.
i was reading up the dynojet instructions for the gs and it reckons DJ 134's on an open stage 3 setup which is 125 mikuni by comparison. so because of the tapered needle it's getting the same amount of fuel on a significantly smaller main jet. dj also uses the restrictor plugs on the bottom of the slider to slow the opening speed of the slider down which leans the mix in order to help juggle the mix. this will be total waffle to a lot of people but i just found it interesting. been reading up a bit to do with obscure tuning to do with drilling the slides and/or cutting the spring to make the slide open faster and richen things up quicker. obscure but interesting nonetheless.
i'll get appropriate jets to mess about with the DJ spares at some point but i'm not too fussed for now. based on what i experienced low down with the DJ parts, it's going to be a bit wilder which i wasn't really expecting that big a difference.
DJ restrictor plugs in top slider just to show the comparison. they say for hard road/ racing use to take one of the plugs out, their vague instructions don't specify which one though.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2884/33605597613_1818c9edac_c.jpg)
bonus shot with added downforce :icon_lol: spoiler alert
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4193/34030551330_00b66ebf25_c.jpg)
I have the dyno jet kit in my 97 gs and after running it on the dyno with the 134 jets supplied mine ran very rich and put out 37.31 hp at between 8,000 and 8,500,Max torque=34.29. I jetted it down to the 128 jets supplied in the kit and it put out 43hp between 8,500 and 9000rpm,Max torque=36.87. Im running k+n lunchbox and megacycle baffle. Needle is in the position recommended by dyno jet and i have all the plugs in the slides, I think?
Hope this helps
Cheers johno
Quote from: crackin on May 07, 2017, 03:05:23 AM
I have the dyno jet kit in my 97 gs and after running it on the dyno with the 134 jets supplied mine ran very rich and put out 37.31 hp at between 8,000 and 8,500,Max torque=34.29. I jetted it down to the 128 jets supplied in the kit and it put out 43hp between 8,500 and 9000rpm,Max torque=36.87. Im running k+n lunchbox and megacycle baffle. Needle is in the position recommended by dyno jet and i have all the plugs in the slides, I think?
Hope this helps
Cheers johno
yeah cheers johno, i'm always interested to hear about other's setups :cheers: i find carbs and messing about with them probably more fun than i should :dunno_black: haha i just wish dyno time was cheaper so that i could actually validate changes.
haven't had much time to play around with the wee beastie recently. managed to find time to get the countershaft grooved further out for the front offset when i space the sprockets.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4189/34273500840_f544738460_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4182/34618143936_91d10b4bf9_c.jpg)
going to have to find a smaller circlip so its a bit snugger on the new groove just to err on the safe side as its so close to the taper on the end. incredibly surprised by just how easy a dremel and cut off wheel made the job. the new groove should allow for +3mm offset with a renthal sprocket or +2mm with a jt sprocket which are both safe tolerances from what i've been researching. i still want secondary means of securing the sprocket to help eliminate play and eventual spline failure.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4200/34788807451_81e69a4c88_c.jpg)
picked up an assortment of circlips and got it fitting nice and snug. :thumb: future offset problem solved.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4197/34920721565_83f4659534_c.jpg)
also did a bad thing... lucky number 13 :icon_rolleyes: :cookoo: it's awful but far too much fun :D 13/44, no longer does 100mph but mid 90s according to the speedo. super punchy feeling but i cant see it staying on long for fuel consumption reasons. either way its cheap as hell fun :thumb: :flipoff:
finally managed to get the rattle out of the exhaust collector, it was just a bit of stainless rattling around. only took like 6 months for it to be small enough to get out haha
so the R/R began to fail. the usual diode test was checked out but it was only outputting 1-2v to the battery. picked up a k7 sv650 R/R from a lowish mileage bike for 3rd of what a used gs would've been :thumb: mounting holes to the bracket are slightly different and it has 7 cables rather than the usual 5 i'm used to seeing on bikes but swapped the gs connectors over using the proper terminals but had to improvise as i had to double wires up and my crimpers weren't big enough, either way its wired up now haha and the battery is charging at 14.3v @ 5000 revs rather than 13.1 at idle and and 12.7 under load.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4204/34119381673_bb2845dced_c.jpg)
the mounting is purely temporary, i've got material sitting to make a bracket up and give it a heat sync.
quite like having it mounted flush rather than in it's stock location on the outer of the subframe.
my love of cable ties is far too much.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4223/34086726974_b2a6e8685b_c.jpg)
aaaaaaaaaand i lost the bloody engine case emblem somewhere :sad: i'll need to find a grommet to fill the hole or use the left hand emblem on the right. absolutely gutted, i loved the rashed up cover.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4201/34889137446_0c99fc96ab_c.jpg)
Rashed up covers are a dime a dozen on ebay. :thumb: It's the MINTY ones that are a PITA to find...
Quote from: Suzi Q on June 02, 2017, 07:25:56 PM
Rashed up covers are a dime a dozen on ebay. :thumb: It's the MINTY ones that are a PITA to find...
it wouldn't be my road rash though ;) yeah i was having a look cheers, seems to be plenty new ones available for about £20 or for a used one i'd have to spend £25-30+ on a side casing just for the emblem haha. needless to say i'm not fussed enough to spend that kind of money replacing it this now. weight savings... right. :icon_lol: :icon_rolleyes:
so... i've not worked on it much recently and i might've done a bad thing :icon_rolleyes: :icon_twisted:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4273/35081348042_93b6a042fc_c.jpg)
50mm clipons i had sitting, think they are gsxr1000 but i'm not 100%, that and set of dominators that i had sitting as well. the doms are awful, i'll have surely said before but it's just something different to what i had before i guess that and it's light summer nights at the moment. position isn't too bad but i could take them an inch closer to the forks if i make a couple of brackets up. might do it, might just throw the single back on. i'll need to do something about front indicators as well as currently i dont have any.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4207/35206561746_60cebe2ed4_c.jpg)
hate hate hate chrome so if i keep them they'll get painted black. also love the brake line routing round the doms, super satisfying to look at.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4199/34402680994_f3231460e2_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4279/35206569556_8afffb50ac_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4220/34402682274_8619633e88_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4280/35246717125_2bfe4b601d_c.jpg)
only took it out for a wee test, it's wildly different to how it was before with the big lairy feeling bars :icon_lol: it's a very aggressive position now, proper head-down-arse-up race bike style haha and it makes the lifted back end feel extremely tall.
it was one of those 'i wonder what that would be like moments' never actually meant to throw it together like that haha
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4201/35206529816_a122a9ba35_c.jpg)
put my new tyre levers to use and i'm in the process of painting wheels and swapping tyres :thumb: i know some tyres can be a nightmare to change by hand but really it's been a doddle, nothing hard about it. levers, sealant and weights cost me less than it would've been to get the tyres swapped at a garage. something satisfying about being self reliant where possible. ^^ obviously didnt paint the wheel with it leaning on the bike haha it was just sitting there in between coats, kept the painting out the yard because overspray can be a ***** :icon_lol: heres hoping i don't make a mess of the paint when i put the road tyres back on.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4275/34402660644_9b4198fd3d_c.jpg)
^^ rust-oleum cast bronze over acid etch primer. looks quite good in person. the dark green and bronze/goldy colour reminds me of the same colourway on the 1st gen impreza, slightly different but similar.
just finished up painting at almost midnight, tomorrow will be tyres back on :cheers:
Looks awesome man!
Love the double headlights. If you want to change things up a bit, check out what I did with my Harley lights.
I really dig the look of the brownish rims!
Tho I don't like your new clip-ons, loved the cross bike bar you had on there before.
Quote from: Endopotential on June 11, 2017, 07:31:32 PM
Looks awesome man!
Love the double headlights. If you want to change things up a bit, check out what I did with my Harley lights.
thanks man :D couple of finished pics coming up shortly :cheers:
yeah i've seen yours, i don't normally like twins as they usually look 'stuck on' and out of place but i do really like yours and it's one of the few exceptionally well mounted ones i've seen. i would've loved to mount something nice and shallow like yours but yours are like fog lamps or running lights arent they? i'm sure i read that. either way they wouldn't pass an mot here for having incorrect beam pattern haha damn it. from the look of your gs i'd say we have very similar tastes :cheers: i will mount something shallow eventually
thanks neon :cheers: i'm not really sure about the clip-ons either man, i like my big dirty motocross bars haha just thought i'd try something a little different, fear not the big bars will return at some point, definitely in time for winter and the knobblies going back on. :thumb:
on the plus side i'm not likely to get pulled over for doing wheelies with the clip-ons haha the big bars and gearing are a bad influence :angel: :police:
Quote from: Ne0n on June 13, 2017, 06:17:51 AM
I really dig the look of the brownish rims!
Tho I don't like your new clip-ons, loved the cross bike bar you had on there before.
so... when fitting tyres make sure they're warm and you've got a couple of big G-clamps sitting in case they decide to be stubborn haha lesson learned.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4207/34480067523_cac1fe2e4d_c.jpg)
also don't get caught warming tyres in the bath :D hahaha :icon_eek:
after fitting the front tyre and discovering bead sealant can bleach paint :icon_rolleyes: but hey thats what touch ups are for right :thumb: anyway i noticed the valve was ripped on the rear! :icon_rolleyes: had to wait a day till i could get another and i could only get a long one but needs must so i've fitted it.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4289/34446186024_578f52ab71_c.jpg)
going to be dead awkward every time i need to put air in.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4245/34446176864_88a4a20878_c.jpg)
tyre clearance on the already bent out torque arm
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4289/35123793222_ce31159901_c.jpg)
chain clearance, spaced out 3mm on the sprocket like before and 2mm on the front, which is'nt as good as being spot on but it's within the 1.27mm 'safe' tolerance.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4277/35289854615_331767b480_c.jpg)
front sprocket spaced and the new groove circlipped.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4248/35289860765_90c3b6fc0b_c.jpg)
rear sprocket with spacer, replaced a sprocket bolt with a cap screw and bolt as it stripped on me. clearance on the swing arm is tight but its allll gooood haha
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4255/35289866455_5d5e8f8afc_c.jpg)
and here we go... :D :cheers: well happy with how the bronze wheels came out. even if i bought the paint 8 months ago with the best of intentions haha better late than never.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4247/35249784536_995272a458_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4248/34480095223_dab24d371e_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4198/34902570500_f29bf31ff4_c.jpg)
Better late than never indeed!!! Don't like repeating myself but whatever... always love your updates and the overall look/geometry of your GS is eye candy :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: iamhiding on June 13, 2017, 12:45:41 PM
on the plus side i'm not likely to get pulled over for doing wheelies with the clip-ons haha the big bars and gearing are a bad influence :angel: :police:
You're able to do wheelies with your gs? :o
Are you using the clutch real heavy, or did you just get a super short gearing?
Wheelies are really one of the things I miss the most about my previous bike...
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on June 13, 2017, 01:15:01 PM
Better late than never indeed!!! Don't like repeating myself but whatever... always love your updates and the overall look/geometry of your GS is eye candy :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen:
repeated or not it's always appreciated and hey it's good to see people keeping the forum alive :thumb: :cheers:
Quote from: Ne0n on June 16, 2017, 01:11:13 AM
Quote from: iamhiding on June 13, 2017, 12:45:41 PM
on the plus side i'm not likely to get pulled over for doing wheelies with the clip-ons haha the big bars and gearing are a bad influence :angel: :police:
You're able to do wheelies with your gs? :o
Are you using the clutch real heavy, or did you just get a super short gearing?
Wheelies are really one of the things I miss the most about my previous bike...
wheelies? nope wasnt me officer, you cant wheelie a gs haha :police: :thumb:
i'm not really the person to be giving wheelie advise but yeah it wheelies and for the record i advise against them :angel: :icon_lol: believe it or not people can wheelie them in stock form :o . it's all about body position and the right technique for the bike i reckon but i had the super raised wide mx bars so obviously that puts your weight backwards a bit, the gearing and the tune. sitting i could clutch it right up in 3rd at 30 on the 14/44 & 13/44 or power wheelie it in 1st & 2nd. standing i could bounce it and clutch it up in 4th on flat. standing at 30-80 mph it would come up well on crests etc with a pop of the clutch. but yeah it was getting silly, i was just popping wheelies every opportunity i got. just begging to get in trouble really, i got pulled over a couple of weeks back for accelerating too hard out of a junction in a 30mph zone, the officer was saying he could see it threatening to lift up, i was just banging it up to speed. :icon_rolleyes: yeah the bike just beckons to razzed about, its always on power. they still wheelie very well with a tune and geared with -2 on the front or up 5 on the rear like i am at the moment and even without the gearing change the gs is quite punchy with a exhaust, filter and tune,
what was the last bike anyway neon?
wee update.
so i noticed some wear on the inside of the chain, pulled it apart and discovered that the clutch cable holder was fowling the chain.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4263/35391412805_157971dee5_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4206/35391424865_75b2acae92_c.jpg)
it's minor but not ideal, think its a combination of the new offset and smaller front sprockets i've been running. i've bent it back out the way slightly, cleaned it up and gave it a lick of bright yellow paint so that if it rubs again i'll be able to see wear on it.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4284/34548992964_080460faa7_c.jpg)
made a couple of quick & dirty allow brackets up for the front indicators now that i'm not using the headlight to mount them. been scheming this up for a while and made them pretty easily. they're not as bright as they could be but i've used worse indicators in the past. they'll do the job either way and they're crazy small and not an obtrusion.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4272/35262272271_24af29ff39_c.jpg)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4230/34548994244_9c0ba3ae11_c.jpg)
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narrowly avoided a bit of death and learned an important lesson that might seem obvious but it genuinely never crossed my mind.
so before i posted a pic of the tight clearance on the bolt i had to use on the rear sprocket when an old one stripped. what i had done was modified a nut to sit in the key on the inside of the sprocket carrier, no biggie. i didn't have a locking nut to hand so i used a normal nut and loctite (left to set) which should of done the job. now there's a reason that the nuts are located on the outer side of the sprocket rather than inside.
if the nut comes loose on the standard item and falls off it's not going to be a direct hazard whereas on mine i had the nut on the inside which means there is a long bolt that can potentially slip out and lock the wheel against the swingarm.
it must have slipped out enough to hit the swingarm when riding as the bolt is heavy bent! i however didnt notice it until returning to the bike bike after parking it on the side stand and the bolt had slipped enough to sit on the swingarm, preventing me from rolling the bike. imagine that had locked up on a left hander, i would've been lucky to escape unscathed.
i suspect i forgot to torque the bolts back up but either way i thought this would be a really important thing to share for those who work on their own bikes. it's something someone might even have done in the past to your bike if a bolt stripped rather than buying the right parts. theres a very good reason the nuts are on the outside!
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4260/35262271701_b45be89d94_c.jpg)
on recommendation of Johnno i think it was, who found the DJ128 mains to work best on his stage3 setup on dyno, i've ordered the mikuni equivalent up which is 120 mains to play about with the dynojet parts i've got sitting. we shall see but either way it'll get me a base tune in the right ballpark. maybe one day i'll be 100% happy with the tune haha
an observation, due to the lesser rolling resistance with being back on road tyres and possibly the larger diameter with them being less worn i've gained a bit of top end speed. speedo read just over 115 last time out whereas it was seeing 105ish on the tkc80s. so i expect to be seeing slightly better fuel economy as well. need to gps verify it but i wasn't expecting to see a change there
Whooooo-weee! GLAD you are OK!!!! For sure I learned something from reading this today.
I very much enjoy your turn signals :icon_mrgreen:
Every time my mom sees my bike, she says she wants my signals to be as big as stop-signs LOL and I'm like, "Mommm... you should SEE the teeny-weeny ones people use nowadays!" lolololol
Have you ever had any issues with the charging system keeping up with those headlights? I remember doing all my math when trying to figure out if I could run the H4 and an H7 in my gixxer headlight swap I did recently. Didn't want to risk it so I went with a stock H4 and an LED H7. Just curious how those dual headlights work.
This is probably one of my favorite threads ever :cheers:
Quote from: iamhiding on June 19, 2017, 07:32:34 AM
wheelies? nope wasnt me officer, you cant wheelie a gs haha :police: :thumb:
:laugh: :laugh:
Quote from: iamhiding on June 19, 2017, 07:32:34 AM
they still wheelie very well with a tune and geared with -2 on the front or up 5 on the rear like i am at the moment and even without the gearing change the gs is quite punchy with a exhaust, filter and tune,
Well, I already have an after market exhaust, so maybe I'll try some changes with the gearing and we'll see if I can pop the wheel :D
I guess 14-41 will be the shortest gearing you can get with the stock 110 chain, but maybe I'll try 15-41 first.
Quote from: iamhiding on June 19, 2017, 07:32:34 AM
what was the last bike anyway neon?
Yamaha XT600 43F '84.
Sadly the motor didn't want to continue his work, so I needed to buy a cheap new bike, and here I am, almost 2 years later, still riding the GS. :D
Those blinkers are wicked my man, gonna have ta get some like that for my bike too :2guns:
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on June 19, 2017, 10:33:31 AM
Whooooo-weee! GLAD you are OK!!!! For sure I learned something from reading this today.
I very much enjoy your turn signals :icon_mrgreen:
Every time my mom sees my bike, she says she wants my signals to be as big as stop-signs LOL and I'm like, "Mommm... you should SEE the teeny-weeny ones people use nowadays!" lolololol
Have you ever had any issues with the charging system keeping up with those headlights? I remember doing all my math when trying to figure out if I could run the H4 and an H7 in my gixxer headlight swap I did recently. Didn't want to risk it so I went with a stock H4 and an LED H7. Just curious how those dual headlights work.
This is probably one of my favorite threads ever :cheers:
yeah showbiz it's a scary one to think about and theres a left hander i take at 100 before coming into my village with nasty walls and a bridge... i cant believe i got away with it not locking up. every time i think about it i'm just in total disbelief. i've been off at over 100 before and it's not enjoyable. might save someone's life reading about my silly mistake though so at least theres a couple of positives to be taken. definitely take care when dealing with rotating parts.
haha thats brilliant ''but muuuuuuummm'' :icon_lol: there's definitely two sides to it isn't there, my argument is always that people don't see you either way so i ride with that in mind, expecting people to pull out on you. i think running with headlights on during the day is probably one of the safest things you can do in terms of visibility. for the record my little indicators are faaaar too small.
cant say i've really looked into how much load they take up showbiz, dual h4 is quite a common mod so it didn't
cross my mind but a very valid point, i'll check what kind of output the R/R has when under full beam load at some point and post it up though :cheers: i've never looked into how much extra juice H7 needs, is it quite a bit more?
''This is probably one of my favorite threads ever'' D'aww shucks :kiss3: :D :cheers:
an old XT600! aww man :cheers: yasss love it NeOn. before i had i license i used to fart about on an armstrong mt500, it was a mid 80s military rotax single thumper, think i would have have rather had an xt600 though. i've had/have a few big road bikes since but i think i'm on year 5 or gs ownership haha love the thing.
it will have been said hundreds of times over but after an exhaust the best thing you can do for the gs is rejet it to suit or better yet get a higher flowing filter or filters and once again jet it. completely transforms the bike. i wouldn't of expected a gs to run particularly well with just the exhaust done as they are already on the lean side of things.
in terms of gearing i've always thought that in terms of bang for buck a 14t front sprocket is the way to go, like once you start going shorter that that you really do lose cruising ability. shorter is sooooo much fun but when the bike cant do 100mph anymore it's tough to keep up with people on a run. i guess it depends on what kind of riding you do, in a city or on slowish tight backroads and short trips the shorter gearing is a riot :icon_twisted: gearingcommander.com is a great tool if you're looking mess about with gearing.
Quote from: crackin on June 20, 2017, 03:04:48 AM
Those blinkers are wicked my man, gonna have ta get some like that for my bike too :2guns:
:D one of a kind :icon_lol: :flipoff: :cheers: haha yeah i had never seen anything as small as that in the aftermarket when i first made one but i have since and they ain't cheap :icon_eek: :icon_eek: :icon_eek: i had another micro set, i'll have to see if i can find a pic for you.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/2/1708/25793882410_a13b451aeb_c.jpg)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-6-LED-Motorcycle-Bike-Mini-Turn-Signal-Indicators-Light-Universal-Black-J25/131621702115?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D43782%26meid%3D827876f013b9472ca50e673d822414a5%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D311335772489
not the listing i bought them from, think i paid double that which is still cheap but £3.38 with free delivery from china is hard to contend with. dirt cheap and they're pretty good.
Quote from: iamhiding on June 21, 2017, 04:19:51 AM
i'll check what kind of output the R/R has when under full beam load at some point and post it up though :cheers:
That'd be great! I'm sure everything is fine because you're totally right... the dual headlights is a pretty common mod. I also took into consideration that I have led bulbs in the tail lights and my dash so those all help as well.
From what I've found through searches, the H7 is the same as the H4, even though it's a single filament. Still pulls 55W/4.6A
My notes and numbers are kinda messy on this note I have here but IIRC, I determined that if I had ALL stock bulbs and also ran a standard H7 bulb, and with the shorter trips I make on the bike, I'd be handicapping the charging system. Just more of a reason to buy new things and swap to fancy LED bulbs :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen:
Also, did you end up settling on which shock you wanted? Or are you still thinkin' about swapping that swingarm?
Wheelies on a stock GS? Video or it didnt happen lol.
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on June 21, 2017, 11:02:54 AM
Quote from: iamhiding on June 21, 2017, 04:19:51 AM
i'll check what kind of output the R/R has when under full beam load at some point and post it up though :cheers:
That'd be great! I'm sure everything is fine because you're totally right... the dual headlights is a pretty common mod. I also took into consideration that I have led bulbs in the tail lights and my dash so those all help as well.
From what I've found through searches, the H7 is the same as the H4, even though it's a single filament. Still pulls 55W/4.6A
My notes and numbers are kinda messy on this note I have here but IIRC, I determined that if I had ALL stock bulbs and also ran a standard H7 bulb, and with the shorter trips I make on the bike, I'd be handicapping the charging system. Just more of a reason to buy new things and swap to fancy LED bulbs :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen:
Also, did you end up settling on which shock you wanted? Or are you still thinkin' about swapping that swingarm?
by the sounds of things i wouldn't be overly concerned with dual h7 if it's the same load and just different connectors but hey its interesting stuff to read into :thumb: just a thought, the only time it would really be under any added stress should be when on full beam.
shock situation has been put on the backburner, the shock i'm wanting to use is in another bike still (cbr6 f3) i've got a spare cbr6 one sitting but i'd only put the old ratty one thats in the other bike on the gs haha :icon_lol: ideally i'd like to throw an alloy sv650 swingarm on but the shock mounts are offset so there would be quite a bit of work to take on, i've got access to gsxf750 swingarm as well which would basically be a drop in part i think but it would lengthen the wheelbase quite a bit, i'm not too sure i want to stretch the bike as it's not my kinda thing, either way with both sv and gsxf arms the wheels, spacers and brake carrier are all interchangeable parts so it'll make for very little work. too big a job to start on my daily without other transport on the road unfortunately. i could always just make a blandtit 12 swinger work and sling in a 180 but... it's just too much added rotational weight and tyre for the bike, i'm all about function over form. also have access to a vfr750 single sider but they are crazy heavy :icon_eek: i will say i've got the preload wound right up on the gs shock and it's not doing too bad but theres room for improvement.
so many plans and thoughts that i'll get round to eventually :D
Quote from: qcbaker on June 21, 2017, 11:45:01 AM
Wheelies on a stock GS? Video or it didnt happen lol.
that was my first thought, something i never tried when mines was a stocker but i've seen it on youtube so it must be true... right :icon_lol: :icon_lol: everything wheelies if you get your weight in the right place :thumb:
couple of wee things.
leant against my old 'temporary' indicator bracket and snapped it haha, rust is a Buddha Loves You. i had already sketchily repaired the other side with a cable tie to i figured it was time to make some a bit more solid.
nothing special just a quick, dirty alloy strip with a couple of 90 bends. i must say every time i make something like this, i'll get everything nice and measured out, i'll get the counter punch in the right place for drilling and then either the pilot hole wanders a little or i wind up having to stretch holes. my fabrication skills suck when it comes to drilling, every bracket gets better though. think i really need some fresh sharp drill bits to be fair haha doesnt bother me so much with the gs, but on any other bike i wouldn't let it slide so much
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4265/35369428661_65d49e112e_c.jpg)
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also popped on some smaller indicators i had lying around as the other ones were seized to the brackets, couldn't be bothered with the faff. same ones i posted before, they're just under 30mm. i'm not a big fan of clear lenses though, think they look tacky.
//
my 120 mains turned up, played about setting it up. it's very very close but the top end feels a bit fluffy so i've ordered the next size up.
so in the dynojet kits you get a DJ 128 and DJ 132. DJ 128 is mikuni 120 which i'm currently on, DJ suggests a DJ 132 for my setup however there isn't a mikuni equivalent, it falls in between 122.5 & 125 on their chart so i'm just picking up the 122.5 next and seeing how it goes.
so currently after a lot of trial and error i'm on 120 mains, needle lifted position 3 from top, one slider restrictor plug removed and mix screw on 1 & 3/4.
- i've gained a lot of top end speed in spite of it feeling fluffy, had the speedo to 125mph last night. (speedos are always way inaccurate remember) lean also gives a better top end.
- low and mid are super punchy.
- 1/8 throttle when cruising in 6th at 30-40 feels a bit off. it feels like it drops to one cylinder on and off.
so the plug after a full throttle run doesn't look too far out, the base ring is quite dry and sooty though, i suspect thats down to something else though.
these are just my tuning notes so i dont forget :icon_lol: :icon_rolleyes: but hey it might help someone out
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i'll have to repeat the whole process when the larger mains come but honestly i'm really impressed with how the bike has responded to the kit so far. i have to say for ages i've kind of been against buying proper jet kits and have opted to just buy individual jets and set it all up cheap but how the bike ran previously on big mains and tweaked (when it was actually set up well) in comparison to how it is with the Dynojet kit's needles and modified sliders but the difference is there, i wish i had dyno sheet to quantify the differences but it just feels so much sharper than it ever has.
i've spent a lot of time dicking around with setting carbs up the gs / other bikes and getting them right without buying a kit and well now i'd genuinely consider splashing the cash out on a kit for the right bike in the right circumstances. i'd probably lean towards factory pro just because they give you different springs to alter the speed the slide works rather than to drill and tap for the dynojet but hey... i've had this kit in my spare carbs just sitting for years, i would never have went out and bought it but damn... i'm just super impressed with how its transformed the low-mid punch on what was already quite a well set up bike. :icon_lol: :icon_rolleyes: just thinking it's probably why i could never get my spare carbs to run right!! unknowingly tuning to completely different parameters :oops: :icon_lol:
New/sharp drill bits make a huge difference omggggg and a sharp center punch too. But who has time for that, right?? :icon_lol: :icon_rolleyes:
When I was making my headlight brackets and my heel guards, I found myself drilling a smaller hole first instead of using the dull a$$ punch I have at my house. But then I realized my home drill needs a new chuck so I ended up getting my good drill from my dad's garage and kept the smaller bit in the crappy drill... :blah blah: haha
As you were :thumb: :thumb:
What spark plugs are you running? They dont look standard to me.
You want a full turn of sooty color on the base ring, which you do have. You my have a plug with the incorrect heat range.
Johno
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on June 24, 2017, 12:27:41 PM
New/sharp drill bits make a huge difference omggggg and a sharp center punch too. But who has time for that, right?? :icon_lol: :icon_rolleyes:
When I was making my headlight brackets and my heel guards, I found myself drilling a smaller hole first instead of using the dull a$$ punch I have at my house. But then I realized my home drill needs a new chuck so I ended up getting my good drill from my dad's garage and kept the smaller bit in the crappy drill... :blah blah: haha
As you were :thumb: :thumb:
haha yuuuuuup... but you only ever remember these things when you go to use them or maybe thats just me :icon_rolleyes: :icon_lol: that and the battery is usually half dead haha i like jump between 3-4 different places to work on the bike so my tools are never where i need them. oh to have a nice pillar drill to hand though, one day.
Quote from: crackin on June 24, 2017, 06:23:32 PM
What spark plugs are you running? They dont look standard to me.
You want a full turn of sooty color on the base ring, which you do have. You my have a plug with the incorrect heat range.
Johno
they're not the usual cheapie ngks :icon_lol: Brisk... think they are the BR12ZC off the top of my head, heat range equivalent of the gs's NGK DPR8EA-9 if i remember correctly or whatever the gs uses again. done my research prior to using them but it's been a while and the bike was much happier on the brisk multi spark vs regapped and cleaned low mileage ngks.
yeah the base is looking alright but thats just one quick clean and plugchop run, after a few runs about it's a bit sootier than i'd like. 4/4 throttle isn't feeling quite right up top yet and even jetted suuuuper lean on 115's and tweaked to suit i was still getting what looked to be a nice sooty colour on the base ring which i really shouldnt have been getting. so going to go a main jet size up from where i am, see if i can get the top end feeling a bit crisper again and just keep tweaking. my gs goes through a fair bit of oil when used hard so i'm kinda thinking it could be fouling things up a bit. in terms of ignition the cam chain tensioners good, timing marks line up, wiring is all good, ignition pickups are in spec, ignition timing isn't advanced at the moment, valve clearances recently done so at least the fouling shouldn't be timing related. you're quite right though, could be too cold a plug, hadn't even considered that. :cheers: going to get the fuelling right and if i'm still fouling a little, i'll throw some spare hotter plugs in to see how it responds. just kinda working through it all as it comes, if it were an actual project bike opposed to my daily at the moment i'd rattle through all these little things and get it bang on.
new jets turned up today, might get round to it later on but if not then tomorrow if the weather behaves.
previous tune: 120 mains, needle lifted position 3 from top, one slider restrictor plug removed and mix screw on 2.
current tune: 122.5 mains, needle on position one ie the top one, one slider restrictor plug removed and mix screw on 1 & 3/4.
only had it out for tuning and not a proper run but i think i'm finally happy with the tune, good top end (saw 125-130mph on the comically inaccurate gs speedo), strong low and mid :thumb: just need to clean the k&n and balance the carbs again.
haven't been happy with the tune since i first rebuilt it on the new frame but no doubt i'll find reason to tweak it. it's also amazing how much the super short gearing masked it's slight midrange boggyness previously. it'll be interesting to go 13/44 again with the decent dynojet kit and tune. heres hoping the plugs don't continue to foul. also going to be a laugh when i set the quick action throttle up.
got some funny looks doing roadside carb tuning though :icon_lol: :flipoff: :cookoo: :thumb:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4143/35611757026_e8a7833c50_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4283/34842238043_b50f3377c3_c.jpg)
Wow that's a beautiful country road. Where do you live?
130mph??? I had no idea our little bikes could go that fast... or how far off is your speedometer? :cookoo:
I think mine would start catching air at that speed.
Quote from: iamhiding on July 01, 2017, 09:10:44 AM
previously tune: 120 mains, needle lifted position 3 from top, one slider restrictor plug removed and mix screw on 1 & 3/4.
current tune: 122.5 mains, needle on position one ie the top one, one slider restrictor plug removed and mix screw on 2 & 1/2.
Which slider plug did you remove? The one with the small hole in it i presume.
Quote from: Endopotential on July 01, 2017, 10:07:53 AM
Wow that's a beautiful country road. Where do you live?
130mph??? I had no idea our little bikes could go that fast... or how far off is your speedometer? :cookoo:
I think mine would start catching air at that speed.
yeah man, so lucky to be surrounded by little bike roads like this :D i don't think i could ever live in a town or city.
they don't but people will claim they've done 120-125, it's soooo funny looking down and seeing just shy of 130 :cookoo: :icon_lol: pretty much every speedo is comically off unfortunately. my front tyre 120/70 (84mm height / C=1884.3) should actually correct the speedo a little more than the standard 110/70 (77mm height / C=1840.3) would. i need to gps it but i'd expect it to be 105-115mph real world speed ... give or take but it's not what the gs is all about its it.
rear tyre size technically makes the gearing marginally longer as well. 130/70 C=1928.3 vs 160/60 C=1959.7
based on the 16/44 current gearing and tyre size i should expect to see 109mph ish at peak power 9500rpm in 6th. i reckon thats quite a respectable figure for a 4valve 500 twin. if the bike had enough oomph to get to redline in 6th on 16/44 and my tyres it would do a theoretical 126mph ish real world speed. i guess it would still do it downhill with the wind chasing you :icon_lol:
bottom line being speedos are accurate enough for typical road use and obeying the limits but really... they're not accurate.
Quote from: crackin on July 02, 2017, 05:53:30 PM
Quote from: iamhiding on July 01, 2017, 09:10:44 AM
previously tune: 120 mains, needle lifted position 3 from top, one slider restrictor plug removed and mix screw on 1 & 3/4.
current tune: 122.5 mains, needle on position one ie the top one, one slider restrictor plug removed and mix screw on 2 & 1/2.
Which slider plug did you remove? The one with the small hole in it i presume.
correct, the one with the hole in it removed. although dynojet doesn't specify which plug to remove :thumb: there was a typo i'm about to sort.
on the 122.5 main tune i wound the mix screw out to 2 turns to make the idle a bit more stable.
after living with the tune for a bit i've realised that at the moment its really strong once HOT, as i tuned it when hot, but not so good until it gets there. still want to jump back to the other mains/tune to see if it was any better low down & mid. purely for my own curiosity.
had an idea... got bored... did a thing... changed my mind... but it's cool, i wanted to strip the tank either way, been wanting to do it for years. :icon_lol: :icon_rolleyes:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4305/35217906173_c4a60d0bd6_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4317/35217908783_ee14fcac80_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4303/35857191152_7924694397_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4304/35986697036_cb714be64c_c.jpg)
yeah so theres a technique i've been using for about a decade, no idea what you would call it but you stencil something onto bare metal and lacquer it, leaving the rest of the metal bare so that it preserves the stencil but the rest will develop a patina or full on rust if you want. decals are great for it as you get a super clean line with little effort. similarly you can sand around decals to create age effects. it's just a bit of craft really. the plan was to strip the tank, use some yoshimura decals either side to replace the suzuki logos, so lacquer the jap yoshi symbol logo onto the tank either side, peel the decals off and let the tank patina. so that was the plan but i don't like the dimensions of the decals i got.
i'm now just going to clean the tank up giving it a brushed steel look and maybe use the yoshi decal on top instead. i wont be lacquering the entire tank so i'll need to wipe it over with wd40 etc every so often so that the rust doesn't take over, winter will be interesting haha. on the plus side any scuffs etc that would ruin a painted finish can just be taken off with a scotchbrite pad if desired, it'll be quite functional in that regard.
paintstripping took about an hour and a half with Synstrip, it's hands down the best stripper i've used, even better than the old formula of nitromorse. in the uk we can't get good paintsrippers off the shop shelf unfortunately but found this stuff on ebay. kind of cool seeing all the metal grain and prep work done in the factory as you'll see in the pics. i've since started removing the mint humbug or beetle like markings, try get a bit of a cleaner more consistent finish.
and hey less paint = less weight hahaha :icon_lol: :cheers: more fastererer and better mpg... right, thats how it works :icon_rolleyes: :icon_lol: rust makes it faster as well :thumb: :cheers:
put a bit of time in taking the heavy marks out, not aiming for perfect or a mirror finish, just taking the worst of it back to flat so theres a good starting point for it to do its thing.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4303/36031533485_b5ddda5988_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4327/35990004066_1762d77608_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4319/35221387893_cf8cbeec8b_c.jpg)
that lighting doesnt flatter the dents :icon_lol: before the staining actually helped disguise them.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4300/36031541005_b44cbe553a_c.jpg)
50 shades of grey. :icon_lol: think i might need to ditch the dominators now, starting to miss the big single.
just used a big 120 grit flapwheel / steel wire wheel and a 400 grit mirka scotchbrite pad. it's good i can now see where the deeper scratches are and get them out.
+1 for going back to the single
And yet again, I'm super entertained by this thread! I really never know what you're gonna be doing next... simply great!!!! :-*
Our bikes are starting to look like twins, with the twin headlights and brushed tanks! :whisper:
Looks great. I ended up clear powder coating mine. There was a bunch of rust on the inside of the tank when I first got the bike, so didn't want the outside to end up the same.
It took me forever to strip the paint and figure out the polishing!
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=71108.msg854112#msg854112
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on July 19, 2017, 02:46:45 PM
+1 for going back to the single
And yet again, I'm super entertained by this thread! I really never know what you're gonna be doing next... simply great!!!! :-*
think you might like the next post as well then :thumb: haha i just have these moments of sporadic madness where i'm like ''F*$K IT'' and i just do something just to entertain myself, always happy to hear folk enjoy my nonsense :cheers: definitely creeping back to my original vision for the bike now.
Quote from: Endopotential on July 19, 2017, 09:20:01 PM
Our bikes are starting to look like twins, with the twin headlights and brushed tanks! :whisper:
Looks great. I ended up clear powder coating mine. There was a bunch of rust on the inside of the tank when I first got the bike, so didn't want the outside to end up the same.
It took me forever to strip the paint and figure out the polishing!
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=71108.msg854112#msg854112
it's far too funny :icon_lol: not intentional for the record, we've just both got good taste it seems :thumb: :cheers: i've since ditched the twins, there was just too much silver going on and they didn't quite work with the retro vibe the clipons & tank gives on mine.
thanks man. i dread to think how long it would've taken me to strip it without that mental paint stripper I've got! proper polishing takes a lifetime! days and days of polishing anyway. i'm interested to see how well your powercoating lasts without chipping etc, usually you need to key the metal with sandblasting. eventually it will start to haze in the sun as well. small prices to pay for a lot less work overall though.
so far its a bit of a pain keeping the tank oiled, my knees slide about in the corners :icon_rolleyes: :icon_lol:
if you're still having rust issues inside the tank, have a look at electrolysis :thumb: super easy and strips rust from steel without effort.
so... ghetto cable tie quick action throttle. :thumb:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4325/35897649662_9bf804e132_c.jpg)
^ untouched throttle pulley.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4313/36067550105_3abcf6811f_c.jpg)
^ initial diamater, 29.91mm ish
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4310/35934508951_8db9ba6834_c.jpg)
cleaned it and cut a cable tie to size to run the length of the pulley, superglued it in place and used some wire to hold it in until the glue cured.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4308/35678017280_98670cae17_c.jpg)
^ new increased diameter of 32.91mm ish.
the idea behind this is that the larger throttle pulley makes for a shorter throw between zero to wide open throttle, ie quicker to open and more responsive in feel.
theres a lot of different ways to DIY it, PVC pipe being the preferred method but i thought i'd give it a bash with what i have to hand. i've heard of people using the SV650 throttle tubes and various things to achieve quicker action, i used the thunderace throttle tube previously for 1/4 (ish) throttle but it was a bit nuts and the throttle stop wasnt big enough allowing the throttle to rotate in the opposite direction if you weren't gentle. do you're own research before modifying anything to do with your throttle, last thing you want is it jamming open albeit very very unlikely. also once once the cable is on top of something, ie the cable tie in my example it shouldn't budge.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4300/35227769224_a3be6680b2_c.jpg)
after a quick test ride, throttle feels much sharper but it's still a little milder than i was aiming for so i'm going to double up the cable ties by using 2 and see how it feels. once you go too extreme it becomes so responsive that things you don't normally think about like blipping down shifts becomes more difficult and you actually have to nurse the throttle at junctions. i guess what i'm saying is that the more responsive the harder it can be to ride smoothly.
also ^ big single headlight is back! i lowered the bars 7mm to get past the top yoke allowing for rotational adjustment. so she's looking purdy and with the bars at a wider angle she's riding well too, feels much more natural than it did before. :icon_mrgreen: :D
just a quick and dirty low res edit but i had an idea. really want to make a sheet metal seat cowl. kind of eyed it up on the bike and it really shouldn't be a great deal of work, might even be able to knock it together almost seamlessly without welding. potential future project but i just don't have the time to spend on cosmetics this now.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4424/36315887940_157fae9335_z.jpg)
i've got a wee rearset project i'm going to start shortly, just reutilising spare parts from other bikes i've got sitting, should lift the pegs a little and set them back a little as well which should adjust the rider triangle to sit better with the dropped clipons :thumb: just need to find a little time to mess with it.
yea,...an update with pic! :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on August 21, 2017, 09:00:49 AM
yea,...an update with pic! :icon_mrgreen:
haha yeah cbr, quite looking forward to turning that seat cowl idea into reality, total classic race bike vibes :thumb:
how're you getting on with that mental gs/cbr sleeper build? ever get it running right?
when you're in the middle of making a long update and you accidentally hit a link and lose everything :icon_rolleyes: :icon_eek: oh well i'll update it another time then :icon_lol: rearsets are mounted! :thumb: :D
I absolutely HATE that!!!! :technical: :technical: :technical:
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on September 15, 2017, 03:07:46 PM
I absolutely HATE that!!!! :technical: :technical: :technical:
it's the worst isn't it. when you're juggling 3 build threads it's happened more often than i care to think about haha :technical: :mad: *headbutts keyboard*
so let's try this again.
had some time to mess around recently with ye ol gs.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4338/35880770784_0298fa448b_c.jpg)
played about with stencilling the tank. think i've since sanded it off whilst maintaining the bare finish... think i'm just going to commit to lacquering it, too much work sanding it and keeping it protected. not too sure if i want to let it rust out anymore.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4341/36434527663_72cd54175a_c.jpg)
got a new bit of heated workspace set up! obtained a steel workbench, roller shutter door pegboard and rolling toolbox. so lucky have a friend close by with the space. note the cbr600f3 rearsets on the bench from my shed stacked with spares for my other bikes. these were from a guy i know's crashed bike which i bought boxes of spares for almost nothing, anyway they're a little rough and completely sacrificial as i've got another 2 sets for my cbr 6 fighter and my track build when i get round to it.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4418/36434526723_c20e6fb384_c.jpg)
first things first, slotted the holes to match the gs5 bolt spacing.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4404/37248962005_b0d960e48e_c.jpg)
ground off the hook for holding the rubber hose to the reservoir and half of the brake light switch mount at the rear so that it could clear the frame. the brake banjo sits very close to the frame.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4344/36850746750_1000772b3b_c.jpg)
rearset mounted with clumpy oem honda peg. note, with these pegs i couldn't get the pedal heights correct on either side and it made the bike feel cramped as the rearsets didn't move the peg position rearward enough for the extra height of these pegs.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4432/36411157764_9f1605c556_c.jpg)
luckily i had these pegs spare from my fighter build (which i bought proper race rearsets for). these allowed me to dial the brake and gear lever in to the perfect adjustment as they sit lower.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4353/36850658790_34f32b32da_c.jpg)
for comparison sake here's the original gs rearsets w/ gsxr 600 srad or bandit pegs, i cant remember.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4417/36411156584_3278343bd3_c.jpg)
here's a sketchy bit. because i ground the mount off of the back for the brake light switch, i rigged up this bit of cable tie engineering. worst case scenario if it slips is that my rear brake light wont work... no biggie but i'll keep an eye on it. i do actually have a proper hydraulic pressure switch you install at the banjo but the banjo is currently too close to the frame. short term this will do. i might slot the master cylinder holes so i can lower it.
//
so i've used the cbr600 rear master cylinder just to save extra messing around making the gs5 one work. it could be done easily enough though.
the gs500 rear master cylinder is 1/2'' and the cbr600f3 master is 14mm. half an inch is 12.7mm which makes the master bore 1.3mm larger on the cbr600. if i'm not misunderstood what this means is that there is now a greater hydraulic ratio meaning that the lever is now stronger although theres more travel. larger means more force but more travel and smaller means a firmer feel. in the real world 1.3mm is pretty negligible, the brake feels as it should.
if you've followed this thread from the start you'll remember i've messed about with this stuff before with what parts i had available for the front brake. once again this is a good read if messing about with masters interests you http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56704
//
so gear side now. the gs uses just a pedal straight off of the gear shaft whereas the cbr uses a rod linkage. the cbr uses a different spline for the gear shaft so unfortunately its not just plug and play.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4383/36411160044_0d45e227ef_c.jpg)
so here's the bits i used. i picked up a spare gear lever for the gs just incase i needed to go back to the old rearsets as you never know. i also purchased a left hand thread m6 rose joint as you'll see on the end of the rod as the cbr's rose joint was riveted to the lever with the spline shaft. i could have use a gsxr splined lever however, slabside, slingshot, water cooled and srad should all use the same spline however i think the srad is the only one that uses a similar linkage to the cbr. if you do your research there's loads of swapable parts when it comes to our beloved suzuki parts bin bikes :thumb:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4373/36850664220_f979d51089_c.jpg)
i measured it all out, lined everything up and got a feel for how it was going to work on the bike. cut the spare gs gear lever slightly longer the cbr equivalent as i figured the extra leverage should make for easier shifting. the gs lever was already bent in this shape as standard and it actually worked out perfect for me.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4386/36411158084_fc2c74b755_c.jpg)
figured out the highest point i could angle it at without fouling the sprocket cover, then decided i could put it further round by 1 notch if i grooved the lever to clear the cover.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4390/37058491636_c5a3295367_c.jpg)
here's the grooved lever and drilled so that i can bolt the rose joint to it. (showbiz, i found a centre punch in my tool box :icon_rolleyes: so for all the time i've been messing up holes i've had the tool to set them up right all along! :icon_lol: typical haha)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4340/37089531672_d23ef7fe19_c.jpg)
thats it bolted with a nyloc nut. for some reason i decided to put a hole in the boot and a washer over it... not sure why i done that in hindsight as i could bolted it and slid the boot over. ohwell live and learn.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4347/36423879014_068931ca7f_c.jpg)
and there you go, all mounted and operational...
now to copy and paste all this just incase the internet bugs out as i send it or i hit a link by accident :icon_rolleyes: :icon_lol: :technical:
phewww it posted :icon_lol:
so. why did i do this? well i had the parts lying around so it's cost me nothing and i like messing around. was it worthwhile? yeah haha the bike rides much better now and the position isn't too extreme or uncomfortable although the last wheelie i slammed down my knees didnt grip the tank and i felt like my nuts were inside me :icon_eek: brutal haha
for reference i'm in the 5ft 11'' - 6ft territory and long legged with dodgy knees and the position is really not too bad. it's not as uncomfortable as my gsxr11 anyway! i'm not sure how it would feel sitting more upright with standard clip ons or regular clamped 7/8 bars but with my dropped clipons it's really good, it's like you're much more over and in the bike. much more suited and less awkward with my bars. feels like a baby racebike.
i must say the gear shifting feels sooooo much more positive now, it doesn't feel vague and clunky like it used to and theres less travel on the pedal for it to shift. i'm guessing it's to do with the extra leverage from the whole linkage. i've yet to hit a false neutral. clutchless upshifts and revmatching downshifts are too much fun.
the only things i'm not happy about is the slight rotational movement i have in between the spline on the gear shaft and the old lever. it's always been there on the bike but i can notice that little bit of dead movement a little bit more now. tiniest bit sloppy, really it's nothing. i think mist gs's will suffer from it but someone gave me an idea to resolve it, so stay tuned for that. due to the banjo point on the cbr master being much higher the brake line looks quite contorted, this could also be due to me running silly gearing thus my rear wheel sitting further back and stretching out the line.
i reckon it's moved the foot position about 15mm higher and about 35-40mm back... it's also really funny how that in the uk we jump from metric to imperial measurements a lot depending on what the context is.
another benefit is that the new rearsets are alloy (obviously excluding pedals and stuff) and quite significantly lighter! you really don't realise how heavy the standard gs ones are, same goes for the original gs pegs, unbelievably heavy for what they are. i should probably invest in a set of workshop scales just for my own curiosity. cbr rearsets were about half the weight or less i reckon.
//
other things to note. head bearings are on their way out and my chain and sprockets are well into their lifespan, i might swap back to my old short chain and std sprocket sizes just to save spending money i don't strictly need to.
quick fix for gear lever play between the lever and shaft.
a lot of bikes will suffer from this at some point, gs's being prone to it as well. i had about 10mm slop of dead movement at the end of the shortened lever as pictured, would've been closer to 15mm on the original set up due to the extra length. thats bad! :icon_lol:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4331/37137450841_f0a80e45fc_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4354/36442377564_92d15498a7_c.jpg)
beforehand ^
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4424/37137450741_4d1b436dfe_c.jpg)
and after running a thin cutting disk with a grinder through it to distance the mating faces on the clamp so that the bolt can pull the splines tighter before coming to a dead stop as the faces join.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4339/36442377364_ce05013462_c.jpg)
and fitted back on the bike with zero play :thumb: nice, tighter more positive feeling shifts.
it's a dead easy fix, better off doing it before the shaft further wears out.
just a couple of pics, cuz' i love this ratba****ding thing :thumb: really cant believe how well it's going at the moment. i need to get out for a proper thrash before the nice weather goes.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4332/37139525791_73afe20dff_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4395/36444326204_c9ee79a5f5_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4387/36444322494_163f0bfc68_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4378/37282455665_5b7ff75bd0_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4418/36884425050_7f11cf6645_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4339/37139536621_d779640b75_c.jpg)
bike porn ftw!!!! :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-* :-*
just a quick couple of cosmetic things.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4411/37076210130_2a9fbc7f40_c.jpg)
made a paper stencil up from my decals, sprayed matt black and once cured brushed it back a bit to distress the edges, giving it a bit more of a eroded/aged/weathered look.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4417/37285335196_7ddce11d8c_c.jpg)
accidentally ripped a bit off but its cool, i made it work haha. just playing around and decided to brush/sand the yoshi logo into the tank. purely experimental.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4406/37285334946_985d34e3f5_c.jpg)
the rest of the tank is brushed towards the grain, ie front to back but to get this to stand out i brushed it in sideways.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4481/36663020773_f7b541242e_c.jpg)
and a bit closer, you'll see the hatched lines going horizontal to the tank.
in person it's pretty damn cool. subtle yet when the light catches it, it pops at you.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4457/37084153190_d6e10478da_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4505/37310737352_1d425a9463_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4442/36671191003_610ea92c49_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4349/37340603161_6b702e3809_c.jpg)
just wanted to show it from different angles at night to show how the light hits it. the pictures really don't do it justice, it's almost luminescent and glowy appearance when the light catches it.
i think the best way to describe whats happening is that because it goes against the grain and brushing on the tank it's bounces off of a different axis so instead of flowing into the rest of the grain when the light hits it, it throws light forward and back. it's actually quite jarring in person.
the whole yoshi logo thing could be seen as a bit of a homage to hideo 'pops' yoshimura, in one sense i suppose that stands true, to me it reflects an appreciation for the golden era of supersport but on the other hand... i kinda just really like the logo and being crafty :icon_lol: :thumb:
//
just had to throw a new speedo cable at it as well.
That is NEAT!!! :thumb:
Looks awesome! Also, for any who don't know Yoshimura is still the factory team sponsor for Suzuki in MotoAmerica, and one of their riders (Toni Elias) is this year's champ.
Man this is sweet stuff. Great pics!
(https://media.giphy.com/media/YlitvKufE2O4M/giphy.gif)
Awesome! I always enjoy seeing what you do to your bike.
Especially love the black decals on the side of the bike. Might copy that somehow one day.
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on September 27, 2017, 07:00:16 AM
Man this is sweet stuff. Great pics!
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on September 26, 2017, 08:51:44 PM
That is NEAT!!! :thumb:
Quote from: Ne0n on September 28, 2017, 04:04:03 AM
Awesome! I always enjoy seeing what you do to your bike.
Especially love the black decals on the side of the bike. Might copy that somehow one day.
thanks guysh :D
its a stencil i made from a decal, used frottage with a pencil and basic printer paper to pick up the hard edges and cut it out Neon, i got fedup of trying to position it on the side of the tank, just thought F**K it and done it on the frame :icon_lol: well happy with how it turned out. thats cool man, look forward to seeing your twist on it :thumb:
replaced the speedo cable and although the needle is being slightly less erratic and has times of stability, it's still dancing around too much and sticking at like 30mph when parked sometimes :icon_lol: i can't see it being the drive on the front wheel so it must be something amiss in the clock itself. i'll have to pull it apart and see whats going on.
serviced the head bearings and its not tight feeling anymore so they'll do for now but theres definitely a notch now.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4492/23649143078_ca5b3e2798_c.jpg)
think my sprocket is definitely passed its best now, think it's only done 3000-4000 miles if that! going to put the silly 13t back on and run 13/44 till the end of the month and throw my spare chain and sprockets on... back to 16/39 standard gearing... :sad: :confused: never thought id see the day haha standard gearing was pitiful but at least i'll save some money on fuel, and it's not like you should be riding hard when the roads are wet/icy and totally unpredictable anyway.
spent a wee bit of time doing a couple of things ive wanted to do for aaaages.
chopping the passenger pegs off, my bike really doesn't take well to carrying people. planned on eventually doing this and bolting pegs to the subframe when needed but nope never again. note: its not a hollow hole into the subframe just a weird shadow where i need to shave it down further.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4452/36825151464_2b6326dfe9_c.jpg)
drilled some speed holes into the heel plates :icon_lol: each hole is worth 1bhp :icon_lol: :thumb:
started on the left, lesser seen one incase anything went wrong and i'm glad i did as i mis-measured the forward most hole, i'm not really fussed though.
punched, pilot holed and drilled up to about 6mm then 10mm.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4501/36825317164_e8d143653f_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4457/37487107476_c4682957d3_c.jpg)
by the time i got to 10mm the mistake was pretty noticeable, i've seen much worse attempts though.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4472/37503760752_4b5a9516d2_c.jpg)
but i nailed the right hand side :thumb: could've spaced all the holes a little further back if i were being fussy, couldn't really tell how it was going to come out until i had started. i'll know for next time.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4493/37535004931_84dbcc60bd_c.jpg)
can see a few bits where the drill wandered from the counterpunch or maybe i drilled at a different angle. oh to have a drill press on a bench :icon_lol: one day. definitely happy with my efforts.
I've had the same problem with the none OEM sprockets only lasting as long as a single chain.
Quote from: J_Walker on October 06, 2017, 11:02:41 AM
I've had the same problem with the none OEM sprockets only lasting as long as a single chain.
for sure. the weight savings and looks come at a cost in longevity don't they :icon_rolleyes: think it's the first time i've ran an aluminium sprocket till the end of it's life.
checked back on the thread and it was fitted at the start of march 2016, so its done a turn of a year and a half of mostly hard riding which is a surprisingly low 3-4000 miles, bearing in mind i've stunted its life a few times by swapping front sprockets about and running it slightly out of line for a while :icon_lol:
i guess it's the only way i could play with sprocket sizes the way i did but on the other hand it lost 2/3s of its life span vs steel sprockets. if i were mile munching with the gs i could've eaten the sprockets in 6-12 months easy i reckon.
would i do it on a gs again? well does the weight difference make any change on the road... nope not really but any rotational or unsprung weight removed is of benefit to acceleration, gyroscopic forces and the suspension. if i wanted to mess about with gearing to that extent and keep steel sprockets i could rob the suzuki parts bin bikes using ie sv gsxr bandit etc's readily available parts and just swap the chain up to 525 or 530 to match.
there's not much sense in aluminium sprockets on a road bike is there but when it comes down to a love of messing about with and modifying bikes how often does sense come into play :icon_lol: i really dont know if i'd use alloy on a daily again but damn does it look sweet.
^ using parts from compatible bikes i worked out i could go to 525 12/49 (-4/+10) with the gearing and stick with steel parts... it would just be a wheelie bike though haha geared to 80mph ish flat out at the top of 6th. 60mph in 6th being 7500 rpm or something daft. some how i doubt i'll be wasting money on such an extreme setup. well unless i could put it together dirt cheap with 2nd hand bits for a weekends fun and put it back to normal afterwards.
anyway! :icon_rolleyes:
cleaned up my old 110x520 chain and hauled out my standard 39t rear sprocket.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4471/37548753252_de0309afcc_c.jpg)
diesel works wonders. (i know you're not meant to do it as per say)
the clip master link isn't in good shape with being removed previously so i'm going to fit my spare tomorrow before covering any miles.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4510/37580906671_fbc2e17ca9_c.jpg)
also done something i'm kind of regretting, put the standard dogbones in to drop it to standard height to make winter a bit safer if it's icy out.
makes the back end look super saggy, the leverage has totally changed the stiffness of the shock and now it's like a mooshy gs shock again, the back is super soft and the front barely sags when you sit on it because of the change in weight bias. i've not ridden it further than a hundred yards but it felt awkwards and quite obviously not right. i'm going to try it though and probably try drop the front a bit as well and just see how it reacts i guess. if i drop it lower at the front it should sort the weight bias and give it a bit of stance again. obviously theres clearance concerns about the front mudguard and i'm not sure if ride height alone is enough to compensate for the change in suspension leverage in regard to the different dog bones. we shall see and it's reversible either way.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4451/37548749892_6ba2dd1f96_c.jpg)
and a quick comparison of what differences the taller ride height made.
to me it almost looks like a completely different bike, it highlights just how raked out the forks are, it looks like a much longer wheelbase bike when low and you can see how drastically different the swingarm angle is as well when jacked up. it alters the lines of the bike, if you look at the tank especially its noticeable.
the chain length is also different now that its back on the 110 link has also changed the rear wheel position.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4496/37532329316_0778498c0b_c.jpg)
i'm really quite looking forward to trying out the bike with standard gearing again just to see how it feels. will say i almost stalled it with actually needing to use a bit of throttle to get it moving now whereas before you let the clutch out and it moves itself promptly.
chain sorted... kinda. :icon_rolleyes: my spare link was a 520 HV o-ring not a 520 XV2 x-ring to match the chain, basically its the same pitch but the new link is wider slightly so it doesn't squish the seals in like it's meant to. it will do for the time being anyway.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4476/37334396470_d20903d744_c.jpg)
think i figured out why its so low. i measured the seat height and it's down to 29'' which is an inch shorter than the 30'' it should be
anyway when i bought a spare shock knuckle ages ago i assumed it was the standard dog bones but i think they're 10mm longer vs the standard ones.
so yeah... it seems i threw lowering links on by accident :icon_rolleyes: :icon_lol: i'll have to pull it apart to confirm though
in the spirit of f**k it, this will be a laugh i raised the forks 28mm to drop it roughly equal. it's kinda funny, the sidestand is too long and the thing barely wants to lean on it.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4443/37592818401_7b98308e3f_c.jpg)
it rides a bit more balanced than it did last night but it's so comically low for me, gives it a bit of a level cafe looking stance as well.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4481/36922494053_5845f34457_c.jpg)
doesn't look as crazily raked out at the forks now :icon_lol: i'm going to pull the dogbones and put it to standard height if i'm right about them being lowering links. i'll see what it's like but i'm going to see if i've got anything lying about that will jack it up just a little from standard and not the massive 2'' it was before just so i can keep the forks a little raised through to get more weight on the front to help the forks work a bit better and maybe it'll stiffen the shock up a little as well without it just feeling too low.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4467/23739833188_5fab773385_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4496/37532329316_0778498c0b_c.jpg)
side by side pics for visual comparison again.
cool stuff here,...enjoy reading your experiences even if there confounding! :thumb:
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on October 09, 2017, 08:00:25 AM
cool stuff here,...enjoy reading your experiences even if there confounding! :thumb:
i appreciate it cbr, thanks. :D :cheers: confounding, i like that :icon_lol: yeah i tend to get bored with my status quo quite quickly and impulsively change things about :icon_rolleyes:
i've been reading back through the thread recently and i kind of laugh at a lot of the stuff i write up here, it's largely for my benefit and keeping track of all the little things, i can imagine it's a bit of a headF**K for a lot people reading or trying to negotiate all the details combined with the irrelevancies in someone else's thought process. :cookoo: :icon_lol:
so... i was right, i accidentally used lowering links.
never assume somethings the right part just. :icon_lol:
thunderace on left, standard in the middle and lowering links on the right
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4507/36943874803_cd3d698fcc_c.jpg)
i've put the gs back to standard rear height now and left the forks raised through a little. haven't ridden it yet but the static sag isn't too imbalanced, i really need to do something about the rear shock :icon_lol: just don't have the funds to splash on things i don't strictly need at the moment.
so a word on whats going on with my front ride height.
so standard gs tyre's (110/70/17) aspect ratio for height is 70% of 110 = 77mm
the gsxr wheel and tyre (120/70/17) aspect ratio, 70% of 120 = 84mm
so with this wheel i've gained 7mm ride height,
however the gsxr forks are roughly 5mm shorter which makes the front ride height 2mm lower than standard.
i did have the offset differences in the yokes written down with the trail difference but i cant find it now :icon_lol:
long story short i can afford to lower the front height a bit which in turn will decrease the trail.
anyway the forks are raised 11mm through the top yoke and the clipons are mounted 11mm below the top yoke. i was wanting to write the geometry differences down but i'll need to pull everything out the shed to measure the offset again :icon_rolleyes: not today :icon_lol:
standard rear height, slightly lowered front :thumb:
//
a word on the 16/39 gearing...
booooooooooooooooriiiiiiiing. :flipoff:
haha nah it's alright, it's nice having slightly longer gears and being slightly more cruise-able again but the bike's lost all of the midrange punch fun factor. :confused: i guess it'll do just fine for winter riding.
//
hopefully got a new partworn front tyre arriving today as mine has heavily worn out, down to 0.81mm centre tread... dangerous in the wet and illegal here.
I was so jealous for your high rear end (cant use shorter dogbones in my bike, thanks Suzuki for manufacturing tolerances) and now you go back to standard heights? How dare you, hahaha :D
Quote from: Ne0n on October 10, 2017, 07:44:06 AM
I was so jealous for your high rear end (cant use shorter dogbones in my bike, thanks Suzuki for manufacturing tolerances) and now you go back to standard heights? How dare you, hahaha :D
that sucks dude, how come you cant use short dogbones? is that like some kind of german TUV thing? and don't worry it's only in preparation for riding on icy and occasionally snowy roads. lower centre of gravity, more stable and less likely to put me on my a*se theoretically :icon_lol: :cookoo: so until we hit spring time or until i get bored again :thumb:
so... this is something i've been meaning to document for ages. it's about to get a little geeky if it doesn't interest you but to me it's interesting.
fork lengths, offset, rake, trail and geometry changes. don't take my word for this stuff, do your own research and measuring.
gs500:
fork length - 755mm (centre of axle to top cap)
rake - 25'
trail - 97mm
fork offset - 30mm
wheelbase - 1410mm
gsxr 750 wp:
fork length - 742mm (centre of axle to top cap)
rake - 24.5
trail - 94mm
fork offset - 35mm
wheelbase - 1440mm
-
these are the specs quoted in the manuals but don't account for alternate tyre circumference i.e. from wear front and back, different sizes being fitted like a 120/70 in place of a 110/70 in my case or the difference in individual brands or models, for example not all 120/70/17 tyres will share the same circumference. nor does wheelbase account for gearing changes, chain stretching, sprocket wear or suspension settings. these can all be factors.
-
so my gs500, not taking the above variables into consideration.
fork offset, with the gsxr yokes i've gained 5mm offset.
roughly speaking this 5mm offset translates to - 5.5mm trail and + 4.5mm wheelbase.
-
anyway, with the 25' rake angle, 742mm fork length, 35mm offset and 120/70 (1884mm assumed circumference) tyre. the trail figure is increased 101.346mm which is a 4.346mm increase in trail.
from what i've seen road bikes i.e sports tourers, sport and roadsters tend to fall between 93 and 98mm give or take, with the lesser numbers having less contact patch and being flickier but also more prone to tankslappers with the opposite being more stable at speed.
so really to fall that close to being a healthy trail figure is in part, complete luck.
-
with just the above in mind i'm at 1414.5 wheelbase and 101mm trail with the gsxr wp 750 wheel w/120/70, yokes and forks at standard height
other factors to consider without getting too far into this is how ride height front or back effects the trail figure.
-
for every 1mm raised at the rear end you expect to see -0.4mm trail and -0.2mm from the wheelbase.
and for every 1mm lowered at the front (raising forks through the yoke) you expect to see -0.2mm of trail and -0.5mm wheelbase.
theres a few references backing that up but it's rough theoretical figures i'm talking, so i might be a little out and vary bike to bike.
-
my previous rear ride height of plus 50mm would have decreased trail by 20mm and decreased wheelbase by 10mm.
so 81mm trail and 1395.5mm wheelbase
-
with my front end fully lowered by the 28mm i have adjustment for before hitting the clipons allows a further 5.6mm decrease in trail and a further 14mm decrease in wheelbase.
-
so if i were to raise my rear 50mm and drop the front 28mm it'd decrease the trail by 25.6mm and the wheelbase by 28mm. which is actually pretty crazy, definitely delving into the realms of you really shouldn't be doing that on the road.
that would take it down to 73mm trail and 1382mm in wheelbase from the standard gs500 97mm trail and 1410mm wheelbase.
by no stretch am i suggesting doing such things.
-
so right now with standard rear height and the front dropped by 11mm is 98.8mm trail and 1409mm wheelbase, which is fairly conservative to be fair.
-
this is completely ignoring changes in swingarm geometry, weight bias to the centre of gravity which 1. i'm not too concerned about the swingarm geometry as its a low powered bike so what little effect these changes have on squat characteristics aren't a massive concern and 2. i simply don't have the tools to deal with weight bias and CG. in terms of weight bias, it's beneficial for me to have it slightly more forward to put more weight onto the forks to get them moving a bit more balanced with the overly soft rear but ideally it would be sprung for the bike. another thing to consider is that forward bias can create poor traction when getting on the throttle on corners but once again the gs is a low power application and i'm running a tyre which gives me a larger contact patch anyway.
i've probably mistyped some numbers knowing me but thats the gist of whats going on. by no means are my deductions evident, they're just my rationalisations, i have no means to measure weight balance and at what point the rear tyre breaks traction. :icon_lol: do your own research and get your head round it if it interests you :thumb: having a basic understanding of this stuff can only benefit you.
to me it's just interesting to see what kind of effect just making one change to your bike geometry can have, for example if you're throwing the common sv650 shock swap on the bike.
Quote from: iamhiding on October 11, 2017, 09:27:56 AM
Quote from: Ne0n on October 10, 2017, 07:44:06 AM
I was so jealous for your high rear end (cant use shorter dogbones in my bike, thanks Suzuki for manufacturing tolerances) and now you go back to standard heights? How dare you, hahaha :D
that sucks dude, how come you cant use short dogbones? is that like some kind of german TUV thing?
nah, as I said, it's because Suzukis manufacturing tolerances. I tested it once with a buddy, but my rear shock would hit against my swingarm. This is pretty common for some gs500, as the German wiki states.
sry, double post by mistake
Quote from: Ne0n on October 12, 2017, 12:21:45 AM
Quote from: iamhiding on October 11, 2017, 09:27:56 AM
Quote from: Ne0n on October 10, 2017, 07:44:06 AM
I was so jealous for your high rear end (cant use shorter dogbones in my bike, thanks Suzuki for manufacturing tolerances) and now you go back to standard heights? How dare you, hahaha :D
that sucks dude, how come you cant use short dogbones? is that like some kind of german TUV thing?
nah, as I said, it's because Suzukis manufacturing tolerances. I tested it once with a buddy, but my rear shock would hit against my swingarm. This is pretty common for some gs500, as the German wiki states.
ahhhh i get you. trying to think but off the top of my head i'm sure i ground down the swingarm previously trying to fit the thunderace shock so when it came to the shorter dog bones i didnt have that clearance problem :thumb:
what about picking up a cheap early sv650 shock and using that to lift the rear? from what i remember reading it doesn't require grinding the swingarm. the lifted rear really does transform the bike so i can only imagine what a better shock is going to do.
hm, no bad idea.
Maybe I could do that over the winter, if I find a place to do it.
Don't wanna do it on the frontyard while it's snowing haha :D
Quote from: Ne0n on October 12, 2017, 05:59:56 AM
hm, no bad idea.
Maybe I could do that over the winter, if I find a place to do it.
Don't wanna do it on the frontyard while it's snowing haha :D
oooooohhhhh i know the feeling! :icon_lol: :icon_rolleyes: working on bikes in winter is a nightmare, it's always dark by the time you get anything finished as well :icon_lol:
new tyre day! :icon_mrgreen: think my old tyre is fried! the diameter difference is comical as well in comparison to the old 120/70.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4475/36985462923_a741a0d73a_c.jpg)
my absolute favourite tyre and weapon of choice. dual compound Michelin pilot road 3 in 120/70/17 :thumb:
fitted totally hassle free! love when that happens. wooooop! a tyre i actually trust :icon_mrgreen:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4465/36945852104_bc98d74495_c.jpg)
investigated my jumping speedo and its definitely the speedo itself not the drive at the wheel or cable.
pic update showing how it's sitting with the front just dropped 11mm in comparison to the the various stances it's had recently.
i can absolutely feel the change in trail. it requires noticeably more effort at the bars to counter steer at 98.8mm trail vs the sketchy 81mm it was running before :confused: it's not bad it's just so much more effort to flick side to side. it's like more slow smooth and stable. it honestly felt like i had a flat tyre with the effort i needed.
when i get round to sorting the rear height and/or shock i'll dial it all in so that i've got a little more forward weight and try get the trail set up to 94/95 territory.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4508/37625936092_07f0b6b91f_c.jpg)
so after all that... i picked up a WOODSCREW :mad: in my back tyre :mad: at least it wasn't the new front but the rear is pretty much at the end of it's life span and i'm not one for repairing tyres if i can avoid it. if it had been a newer tyre i would've repaired it though.
so i was put in the position of shell out money i don't have to spend on a rear tyre new or partworn or... work with what i've got and chuck the almost dead TKC80 knobblies back on for winter :icon_rolleyes:
no regrets, forgot how good this thing is with big bars, stacked bar risers, jacked up rear and knobblies.
i wasn't really enjoying the standard rear height and imbalance front to rear it gave because of the shock and leverage ratio, so i'm back to having super short trail. with the bars and geometry changes it's very lively, very fun at the low-mid speed stuff, it'll be ideal for the slower riding over winter i think.
it's back to being a bit of a wheelie machine with the big raised bars, not as mental as its geared standard again but sitting clutch ups in 2nd at 25-30mph is decent enough.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4467/24070754578_8f12861b8d_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4451/37212264664_5d919f5f9c_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4508/37921480171_332532a59e_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4460/24070751268_35b3050eef_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4513/26145866189_a1bdb0c700_c.jpg)
chain was rubbing off the sprocket cover again, also heavy running on the rubber chain guide. both due to the angle of the swingarm with it being lifted so much.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4447/37890685152_1e8d250d85_c.jpg)
inner marks are the chain guide rub and the outer marks off the sprocket cover
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4474/37212270354_001006a7de_c.jpg)
got ye old faithful angle grinder out and notched the fouling area out the sprocket cover
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4497/37922990121_a8ca045acb_c.jpg)
increased the throttle tube pulley size again :icon_twisted: :icon_rolleyes: :icon_mrgreen: to 36.2mm with a 2nd cable tie. with them superglued i physically cant pull them off by hand so its plenty secure, with the toothed side facing up it allows the cable to groove in slightly giving it a nice channel/guide to sit in. it's roughly just over 1/4 turn throttle.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4510/37868547306_6b42d41dbf_c.jpg)
so yeah... once again a total change of flavour :icon_twisted: dang... she fun! :cheers: :thumb: slow and geared boringly... but fun.
Your updates and pics make my day!!!
So what setup is on your bike right now to achieve that tail height? Do you have the raising links + a different shock? I lost track over time lol :embarassed: and I'd love to scroll back thru all the pages but I'm at work and I really should be working lolol
+1 "Your updates and pics make my day!!!" :bstar:
Love the TKC80s. I have them on my GSF too.
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on October 25, 2017, 04:03:18 PM
Your updates and pics make my day!!!
So what setup is on your bike right now to achieve that tail height? Do you have the raising links + a different shock? I lost track over time lol :embarassed: and I'd love to scroll back thru all the pages but I'm at work and I really should be working lolol
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on October 26, 2017, 06:58:08 AM
+1 "Your updates and pics make my day!!!" :bstar:
:D :D :D shucks haha :cheers: :thumb:
yeah showbiz i'd have lost track if i didn't document stuff here too :icon_rolleyes:
so the rear is about 47-48mm taller, call it 2''. standard rear shock and thunderace dogbones, the dogbones are 165mm eye to eye so 15mm shorter than the standard gs ones :thumb:
i couldn't put another shock in with the dogbones being this short as it would be far too stiff due to the change in leverage ratio, i could however put the original dogbones in and swap shock out.
i kind of geek out when it comes to stuff like this but this is a decent overview of leverage in the shock linkage - http://www.promecha.com.au/leverage_linkages.htm
basically playing with dogbones doesn't just change ride height, it alters the way in which the suspension works. also changes wheelbase and trail... and swingarm angle but i don't fully grasp the swingarm part of it yet but i understand enough.
the firmness it gives me on this setup actually balances up quite well with the stiffness of the front. for the time being the standard gs shock is actually not a mooshy mess like it would normally be and it's doing what i need to in that it's creating a balance of weight front and rear. ideally i'd like to throw a gsxr 750 wp shock in the rear with standard gs dogbones i think.
the bike feels like a slightly heavier supermoto and feels similarly in height. so flicky and turns in so sharp when you want it to, i really do wish i could give some of you's a shot, it's barely recognisable as a gs in the way it handles. i mean, well set up standard forks sprung correctly with cartridge emulators. a decent brake and a decent shock would respectfully outperform my gs in stability, feel, outright corner speed and ability at fast road/track but it's just a totally different feel this way, on a gokart track it would be a different story :icon_lol: i guess it's a bit like a supermoto... parallel twin without the ground clearance. it's just too much fun and totally effortless :cheers: just wish it had a little more grunt, the mental gearing i had before really did help it feel more punchy.
Quote from: Bluesmudge on October 26, 2017, 09:32:40 AM
Love the TKC80s. I have them on my GSF too.
they're so good aren't they! i don't know about you but a lot of riders sneer at them in a way of ''oh i wouldn't ride them on the road'' but really in the dry they have more grip than most people need, i've pushed them harder than i should've and they just take it... it's actually scary as theres little to no feedback at the edge i feel.
in the wet it's a different story, have to go super cautious as it doesn't take much to put them sideways or light up the rear... which is fun when you're expecting it.
rode them on a vfr 750 as well, dead impressed by them but i think i'm going to try a Mitas E10 on the rear next as a cheaper alternative to the TKC80.
hiding, I really appreciate your reply!!
I've been playing around with dogbones and just swapped in the R6 shock on my GS a few months ago. Right now I have raising links to give the rear a 1" lift but was thinking about going taller... but I know I can't do that unless I go back to the stock shock because I had to grind the swingarm just to install the 1" raising links WITH the R6 shock.
So I have been debating whether or not to just do the SV650 shock conversion and go back to the stock dogbones... OR buy the 2" raising links and go back to the stock shock. The SV650 shock swap is actually cheaper than buying more raising links. Crazy!! But buying the 2" raising links would be less work (cuz of the trimming and re-drilling of the SV shock).
I know it's not much work at all but I don't wanna do any more than I have to if I'm not gonna like it.
So you'd say that the raising links almost totally transform the stock GS shock into something good? Can I ask what your weight with gear is? I'm about 145-150lbs.
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on October 27, 2017, 01:49:27 PM
hiding, I really appreciate your reply!!
I've been playing around with dogbones and just swapped in the R6 shock on my GS a few months ago. Right now I have raising links to give the rear a 1" lift but was thinking about going taller... but I know I can't do that unless I go back to the stock shock because I had to grind the swingarm just to install the 1" raising links WITH the R6 shock.
So I have been debating whether or not to just do the SV650 shock conversion and go back to the stock dogbones... OR buy the 2" raising links and go back to the stock shock. The SV650 shock swap is actually cheaper than buying more raising links. Crazy!! But buying the 2" raising links would be less work (cuz of the trimming and re-drilling of the SV shock).
I know it's not much work at all but I don't wanna do any more than I have to if I'm not gonna like it.
So you'd say that the raising links almost totally transform the stock GS shock into something good? Can I ask what your weight with gear is? I'm about 145-150lbs.
no worries showbiz :cheers: like you'll find a lot of this stuff is trial and error, how do you find the r6 shock and 1'' lift? like an inch lift is quite a bit really, from what i've researched suspension tuners don't tend to stray far from lifting the rear 10-15mm for fine tuning. well for track stuff on many bikes anyway.
i can only guesstimate but the sv shock is going to be better suited to the gs with the stock forks, even if the internals are standard if it's a lift you're looking for.
you picked up on a very key point, yes the 2'' lift links will completely transform the gs shock from being a mooshy mess even with preload wound right up to the complete other end of the spectrum however it's borderline too harsh. it works well for my application but i cant imagine it working well on standard forks, i'd suggest against it unless you're all for it as a bit of experimentation.
with the SV shock you're gaining height from the shock length alone without messing the linkage, which is probably the better way to do it, it still changes the leverage ratio but not as dramatically as messing with the bones.
for reference i'm 6ft, 75kg and full gear will be around 10kg on top give or take. that equates to about 187lbs in total.
i think my idea setup would be an inch to an inch and a half lift, the only reason i've got it as jacked as high as 2'' is that i'm working with what parts i have available.
if you just do shorter dogbones, because of the swingarm angle you will definitely wear the rubber chain guide out quicker and possibly have the same sprocket cover issues i've had but then again my problem might be caused by my sprockets being offset. i've not read about this being an issue with the sv shock swap.
if it were me i'd stick with the r6 shock and 1'' lift but if you want to go the dogbone route you could always see what other bikes use dogbones that'll work for the lift. you'll need roughly 165mm eye to eye, just a thought rather than spending waaaaaay too much on jack up kits. for example i used thunderace dogbones.
another option you have is drilling holes to make the original gs dogbones shorter. some people will think that it's sketchy but i've seen it done as many times without bother when swapping shocks to make up for lost height or even just to jack it up a bit, it's not the ideal way to do it though.
Hey just took a closer look at your polished gas tank, looks great!
Are those Japanese characters painted in a with a stencil? They don't look like the usual Yoshimura decals.
That is exactly the kind of information I was hoping for. Thank you so much hiding! I think I'm gonna go for the SV swap and see how I like it. I dug up some more threads on it and also found one on eBay right now for $25, shipped.
Even if I don't like it, I can always put things back to how they are now... AND add some missing information/answer more questions/take more pics regarding the SV swap.
Quote from: Endopotential on October 29, 2017, 01:23:17 PM
Hey just took a closer look at your polished gas tank, looks great!
Are those Japanese characters painted in a with a stencil? They don't look like the usual Yoshimura decals.
hey endo, yeah thanks :D the tanks more brushed than polished, no point polishing a turd right :icon_lol: but yeah just sanding pads and brushed in one direction.
nope no paint which kinda confuses people haha the tank is brushed front to back and using a stencil that i made up from a decal, i brushed the logo in with sanding pads left to right so that the logo pops out. yeah it's all just bare metal, i have to give it a wipe over with oil every other day which is a bit annoying :icon_lol: it looks truly awesome at night when the logo reflects light differently.
and yes it's just the Japanese kanji on the yoshimura logo, theres a few variations and they're usually accompanied by 'yoshimura usa' etc :thumb: same stencil i used on the frame actually.
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on October 31, 2017, 11:57:17 AM
That is exactly the kind of information I was hoping for. Thank you so much hiding! I think I'm gonna go for the SV swap and see how I like it. I dug up some more threads on it and also found one on eBay right now for $25, shipped.
Even if I don't like it, I can always put things back to how they are now... AND add some missing information/answer more questions/take more pics regarding the SV swap.
thats what the forums here for :thumb:
thats a bargain! i always see things going cheap on the us ebay but then the shipping cost is unreal haha :icon_eek: parts always seem so much more expensive in the UK. like i just had to buy a bracket for the tail swap on my cbr for £25 but i could see them selling for £2 in the US :confused: :icon_eek: needs must unfortunately.
thats it showbiz, it gives you the option to change things about if you don't like it and even sell whichever you don't use to make some funds back.
Don't know, that's a pretty good looking turd :cheers:
If you get bored of oiling the bare metal, I got mine powder coated clear. So far it's held up pretty well after about a year.
On to our other topic, I've got an R6 shock. You think that if I went to a shorter dogbone to raise it 1" or so, that the shock wouldn't have enough travel? and 2" lift would kill it?
Idk if you were asking hiding or me but I can say that when I put the 1" raising links on my bike about a month ago with the R6 shock (how my bike is currently set up), I had to grind the heck outta the swingarm to make everything fit (right in the same spot you had to tend to in your project thread Endo). I don't think 2" raising links could fit with the R6 shock unless I did some serious actual cutting on the swingarm to allow clearance for the shock. I don't know about it messing with the travel tho.
Quote from: Endopotential on October 31, 2017, 04:44:31 PM
Don't know, that's a pretty good looking turd :cheers:
If you get bored of oiling the bare metal, I got mine powder coated clear. So far it's held up pretty well after about a year.
On to our other topic, I've got an R6 shock. You think that if I went to a shorter dogbone to raise it 1" or so, that the shock wouldn't have enough travel? and 2" lift would kill it?
:D :cheers:
i've played with the idea of clearing it with powder but i'm not big on high gloss finishes, i've got a blast cabinet and i'm going to be building an oven at some point. one of the potential drawbacks with powder coating is that once the coating gets broken it can allow for moisture to get in behind the powder and with steel, rust can eat things from the inside out yet the powdercoat finish stills looks decent. sounds mad but it can happen to the likes of frames. the tanks damaged, it'll never be worthwhile powdercoating it i don't think, i'd like to track down one of the later larger capacity tanks. in the uk we only got a 15L tank on the early models. i've always found anything clear over bare steel to go cloudy with uv over time and once water gets in it like gives you cracky rust lines under the coating.
the intention was always to let my tank rust and patina up but i keep changing my mind haha or do some kind of rust art. scrapyard camouflage :icon_lol: it's currently rusting up a fair bit.
i really couldn't say about the r6 shock, clearance is pretty tight against the swingarm with my 2'' jack up links on std shock if i remember correctly and i'd previously ground the area down when experimenting with another shock as well just like you two. the upper shock mount on the frame can always be modified to gain height if need be, that way you'd get the best of both worlds, but obviously its not a plug and play bolt on mod.
recently i've been so caught up in another project, think i'm 108 hours into a bare frame restoration/rebuild and nowhere near finished, believe it or not i'm a bit of a perfectionist in spite of the gs :icon_lol: . so thats taken up the last couple of months of spare time over the xmas period, other projects have been held back as well. also passed the car test so i've been loving blasting hot air in the cold mornings. only times i've used the gs in the last month or so is when it's been snowing :icon_twisted: :icon_lol: :thumb: unreal fun haha
it's looking a bit worse for wear with being parked up covered in salt so took it out for a wee blast to free the brakes up a bit and get it dirtier before bath day.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4675/24769325697_4947eccf9b_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4706/24769323997_5eaa997ddd_c.jpg)
look at the corrosion build up on the engine, this is honestly the most neglected the bikes been in my 5/6 years of ownership. it's not really that bad but i cant be letting it rot away.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4618/38741083405_4ef1d39b0e_c.jpg)
rust starting on the tank, think i might do some rust art and let it all patina up, not too sure still.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4660/38929270364_1df9662913_c.jpg)
gave it a long over-due wash! it's not 100% but its not going to rot away. afterwards got everything sprayed up with oil minus the tank so it's all good again.
currently the back brake needs pulled and cleaned as it's sticking, the indicators aren't working which is fine enough for bumbling around locally but obviously not great, need to get a battery for my multimeter so i can sort that and my rear tyre is absolutely knackered and almost unusable. another shock knuckle bearing/s have went again, so got a few things to sort out but all my time/funds getting put into the aforementioned rebuild :dunno_black: i'll find some time eventually but juggling 4 bikes and a car all needing work in your spare time is ehmm... tedious. all good fun though.
iamhiding, are you living up to your name? haha where you been? hope all is well with you!
There is a youtube clip of someone doing a GSXR1000 dirt bike - man was that insane. This is like its junior - and it had the same exhaust as this one.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on June 26, 2018, 12:32:45 PM
iamhiding, are you living up to your name? haha where you been? hope all is well with you!
Shhh I'm hiding :thumb: I'm keeping the gs off the road this year until I catch up with other projects. It'll be getting a tear down and rebuilt over winter 18'. But yeah good thanks haha just slaving away, haven't had any gs updates so I've not been on the site much. Might put a pic up of it currently, think some people will be butthurt about my tank :icon_lol: :flipoff:
Quote from: The Buddha on June 26, 2018, 01:34:15 PM
There is a youtube clip of someone doing a GSXR1000 dirt bike - man was that insane. This is like its junior - and it had the same exhaust as this one.
Cool.
Buddha.
I know the one! Haha the exhaust can twists every time he hits the throttle. There's a few about but I think you know how much I love the crazy builds. I bet that gsxr is next level scary.
I would love to see any new pics of your GS! I'd also love to see a new topic about the other project(s) you've got going on (and I know I'm not alone... right cbrfxr?? ;) )
I did the SV650 shock install on my bike recently and swapped back to the stock dogbones. Also finished building new forks with sonic springs and preload adjusters, therefore having to slide them down a bit in the clamps and raising the front a tad. My GS now has a tail lift/height stance similar to yours and I can totally see why you like it so much :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
That Danmoto GP Extreme you picked up... have any idea what bike it was originally for? I wouldn't mind buying one brand-new from Revzilla and trying it out (I love the look of it)... but Idk which bike to tell the site I "own" so I get the one that'll match up to the GS's pipe diameter :icon_razz: :icon_rolleyes:
Other projects are really holding me up. I've been trying to get bodywork finished for months but struggling with time.
96' cbr600 f3 restoration is mid bodywork right now. (Lacquer over primer grey) it's... sexual. There's no build pics really. That's my priority for getting finished as it now has a new owner. no pics. fedup of sanding bodywork.
2nd. 98' cbr600 f3 streetfighter. project started winter 2014. Is waiting to get a tail swap finished. Relying on others for welding has been frustrating. it's almost rideable. not even going to begin listing the mods or work done but fireblade 929 USD forks and massive 330mm front discs :icon_eek: haha. should be about 180kg wet, ie with a full tank when finished. 105bhp/180kg should be a laugh. it'd be finished by now but i keep getting distracted with other projects and when this was a priority i was hung up waiting on welding. lightweight f4i alloy swingarm and rear wheel waiting to go on too.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4714/40150864221_dd8c29c570_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4630/26277535208_02cde2cd96_c.jpg)
3rd 93' Gsxr1100 WP w/ a 60mm shorter braced swingarm / a bunch of other mods. no recent pics and this isn't a great angle. someone reversed into it and bumped it off the stand, broke a rake of bits but paid to replace them. about £2000 worth of difficult to get/irreplaceable bent brackets and broken plastic. needs a couple of things wee sorted and then it'll be up for sale next spring. 250kg/150bhp ish. it's an oldschool supersport tank of a thing. torquey, a real challenge to ride fast, ffffkin quick in a straight line.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8847/28061769864_03641de051_c.jpg)
4th the 00' gs500 scrambler thing
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(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1844/42789827650_337aa7104b_c.jpg)
a lot of people wont get the whole rust thing but to me its a bit of a middle finger salute to those who don't get it :flipoff: the gs is in need of some love, should only need a wee weekend rebuild/refresh but so much else on right now.
5. A semi stripped and lightly modded renault sport Clio 172, the daily transport and the last of the oldschool hot hatches. 172bhp/1007kg on 1/4 of a tank but still on a diet, looking to get it down to low 900kgs and 180odd bhp without spending much. no pics on flickr
just sold a couple of bikes on as well. needless to say i've got my hands full.
got a couple of build threads online but i'd have to find them :icon_lol:
//
The exhaust was for a monster 690 or something like that but all their exhaust cans are one size and they give you link pipes to suit individual bikes. Because I've got a proper aftermarket system it was easy to adapt the can to fit the link. standard gs systems are a bit I've seen a few of these cheap gp" style cans and the danmotos are probably the best of the cheapies.
//
not too sure what i'm doing with the gs next, because its not my daily anymore i fancy going extreme with the gearing (13/49 or close just for a giggle) and somehow making the bike a bit more ridiculous but... tasteful... but offensive... with a few artistic details. i guess its almost at the point where the most absurd thing i could do with it would be to fully restore it to original spec :icon_lol:
HOws those cbr carbs treating you?
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on September 10, 2018, 12:23:48 PM
HOws those cbr carbs treating you?
:icon_lol: not too bad but then again i do have all the original air box and ram air ducts, not a mental setup like you had to fabricate to squeeze it in a gs frame :icon_lol: i've also got some 38mm blade carbs to go on the fighter when i get round to it, that should be a laugh :icon_twisted: :angel:
nice,... Got any thing posted anywhere on the cbr's? Would love to see that!
Quote from: iamhiding on September 10, 2018, 12:03:24 PM
....
//
not too sure what i'm doing with the gs next, because its not my daily anymore i fancy going extreme with the gearing (13/49 or close just for a giggle) and somehow making the bike a bit more ridiculous but... tasteful... but offensive... with a few artistic details. i guess its almost at the point where the most absurd thing i could do with it would be to fully restore it to original spec :icon_lol:
What a mad build! I want to see more of this bike, it's got character. Originally I thought dent in tank = trash, then it rusted and now it looks like it could tell war stories... Where's the op hiding..
Quote from: thatshitcray on June 17, 2020, 07:53:13 AM
What a mad build! I want to see more of this bike, it's got character. Originally I thought dent in tank = trash, then it rusted and now it looks like it could tell war stories... Where's the op hiding..
Still lurking man and thanks. Bikes been rebuilt again since the last post, not entirely happy with where it's at though. I've been locked out of my bloody Flickr account, I need to sort that and get this updated.
Wabi-sabi. In traditional Japanese aesthetics, wabi-sabi is a world view centered on the acceptance of transience and imperfection. The aesthetic is sometimes described as one of beauty that is "imperfect, impermanent, and incomplete". wiki quote but it sums up the style pretty well.
where pics?! :dunno_black: haha
Need some updates sir!
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on June 17, 2020, 09:32:33 AM
where pics?! :dunno_black: haha
Need some updates sir!
Just need to figure out which forgotten email address my Flickr is linked To :icon_rolleyes:
Yea those Mudder Flickers.
Cool.
Buddha.
Finally got back on my Flickr to find they've added a upload limit... soooo new account.
let's resume.
Still juggling projects/time/funds/space. Clio clutch imploded on me so the plan was to give the gs a quick dirty rebuild to mot and get me on the road.
Bugger, turns out I can't get the embed link on the phone booooo. Here's a teaser link in the meantime till I get on a computer.
https://flic.kr/p/2jfcjCu
so, cant link pics via flickr on the phone and not had computer access in ages so there's a few updates to catch up on. so herrrreee we go. gearbox crapped itself on the clio so borrowed a friends sw20 mr2 for a wee bit till i re-commissioned the bike to use daily until i had time to do the box.
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needless to say the wee gs was needing some love after being parked up a bit. plan was to strip it back to frame and engine then service everything as i reassembled.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50043499001_59e540f2b2_c.jpg)
after a quick once over got the essentials ordered and used needing a chain as an excuse to further play with gearing :icon_lol: namely 13/49 & 16/49. note i used a 114 link 520 as the measurements for front sprocket centre to middle of chain adjustment with 16/49 was slightly over needing a 114 so opted to run it with a shorter wheelbase, really shouldve used a 116. that and it looks slightly odd having the rear wheel so inboard but youd never notice it unless its pointed out
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50043754117_78c62079e1_c.jpg)
replaced the gen cover gasket
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found the gen wire insulation to be broken, sorted that with a spare gen i had.
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used the spare badge to replace the mising one on the rhs too
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looks maaaaaaaaaaaaaaad with the big sprocket
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so after giving the carbs a quick clean, getting it running pre teardown, the clutch wouldnt disengage ie wanted to take off as soon you click into gear. so cover off, tried chapping it etc but had to disassemble the clutch pack, clean and reassemble as it was heckin' stuck together. got the clutch working and bike moving but it wasnt charging. tested the R/R and it had failed.
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was using a sv650 r/r previously if i remember correctly, purchased a gs one as it was cheap, turned out to not work in spite of testing as it should ( seller blocked me on ebay after selling me a dodgy r/r then having to pay return costs because people are petty and awful), replaced with another r/r and it worked fine. think i wired an sv650 or gsxr k6 r/r to suit.
anyway got it running and charging and ready to pull apart.
woop woop sweet update! Love that bombed style! :bowdown:
sooooo quick strip back to nothing in an hour or so.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50043490316_dc0e58d623_c.jpg)
annnnd bonus sprocket pic before tear down
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found some rust i wasnt happy about so pulled the engine out to deal with all. didn't have any phosphoric acid at the time so just used wire wheels / sand paper etc and got as much as i could to at least minimize and treat it.
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that was after taking the pressure washer to it to knock all the loose paint off... yick not ideal. turned into a bigger quick dirty rebuild than anticipated. and i definitely needed a new swingarm. lost all the progress pics but got the bulk of it off, an etch prime and painted it satin black, itd do for now but really i should've waited and just got some acid or put it in to get sand blasted.
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painted the wheels the same bronze colour as before but forgot it turns into a terracotta / burnt orange when lacquer goes on. so not what i wanted but they look alright.
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ran a brass wire wheel over the scabby forks to remove all the corrosion but not rip the alloy apart, repainted the bases black and laquered the bare alloy to protect it. knew the lacquer wasnt a permanent solution but it would do. lost the pic of them finished but you'll see them shortly
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50043495916_0983576d98_c.jpg)
replaced the old tkc80 with a mitas e10. still using a 150/70/17 on a mk1 sv650 wheel
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50042926943_575d659f75_c.jpg)
rear caliper was fine but the front 6pots had eroded the outer dust seal lip away like the 6 pts often do... decided to replace them with bandit 12 4 pots, much better caliper in my opinion.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50043742457_37d2fb9007_c.jpg)
now onto reassembly. experimented with a high mount mudguard but found it to sit odd with the big round headlight. something to experiment with at a later day.
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on December 23, 2020, 07:54:39 AM
woop woop sweet update! Love that bombed style! :bowdown:
cheers man, bit more to come yet :icon_razz: still updating last years rebuild.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50043741972_4026c1662c_c.jpg)
further into reassembly.
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the old jubilee clipped standard speedo had rattled itself to death unfortunately, loved how it looked but onwards and up. made this bracket to hold a spare digital speedo ive got from another project. you'll see the speedo later though as im missing pics
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50042940428_c792a6e5b6_c.jpg)
here we go, reassembled. on a chopped and redrilled sv650 shock and 180mm dogbones, that was a messup. had planned on using the shorter dogbones with the chopped sv shock but ran into clearance issues and idnt want to grinf the new swingarm down... having already cut the shock i couldnt leave it as was to retain height and use the 180mm dogbones... so its saggy in the butt and has weird stance for now. wrapped the headers too. admittedly not loving the bike at this point due to stance and colour combo.
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after a few acid treatments and abrasive sessions, itll never be what it was before but i like the dulled finished. note first couple of pics were just to see what the acid would do. best off sanding rust off then acid treating.
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new/old speedo fitted, running a wheel driven cable to a digital convertor.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50043750897_31402e386f_c.jpg)
also remade the reduction spacer for the topyoke bolt.
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at this point, consider the 2019 rebuild complete for now, got occasional use out of it when needed and definitely not enough fun miles. removed the header wrap, never got round to sorting its stance or doing much with it really. continued to hate how it looked in comparison to how it did before due to the colour combos. its been stripped back to bare frame in 2020 and reassembled how it should've been done in 2019. got some interesting stuff in the works for it too.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50043741607_1d6f2e990a_c.jpg)
the previous silver on silver on silver on copper looked far superior. almost looks like a different bike now.
so now that I've covered the last iteration, here we go.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50043501016_0aebef5b91_c.jpg)
entering uks covid lockdown this how the bike remained until about nov/dec when i got fedup with it and started fiddling with it again.
decided i hated a combination of the black frame, orange wheels and weird stance and as i hadnt dealt with the rust properly last time round it was reappearing in places and i thought id sort it with acid this time round. really it needs sandblasted but havent had the time.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50731243211_f17eb581ec_c.jpg)
key was on the verge of snapping so ive drilled the tank out so i can use anything :cheers:
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the starting point, here i was mucking about with the rear height. tried a couple of things. 170mm dogbones were a bit excessive with my shock setup. think i settled on 175mm. standard is a bawhair under 180mm i believe and on the last rebuild id accidentally used 182.5 which is why i think my stance was a bit weird... basically had it at standard height but with different fork length and offset. oops.
linkage on our gs is 5:1 ratio, so its my understanding that if you change the dogbone 1mm, it roughly equals a 5mm change in ride height. so 5x5 = 25mm lift and so on.
currently with my sv shock chpped at 315mm at 25mm over the standard gs 290mm shock and 175mm dogbones i should have a rough 50mm lift over standard, usedto run 75mm ish lift on the silver frame and standard shock / 165 dogbones but because it alters the swingarm angle so much it changes how easily the swinger can operate as a lever and you wind up with an almost overly stiff back end. not what you want for grip.
i trialed 172.5mm dogbones and found the rear to be extremely stiff with sv shock
note the leaves in the background compliment the bike colours and the stance change makes it look less off.
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so here we go again, back to bare frame in and hour or so for a quick dirty rebuild and a bit of paint
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optimum painting conditions for sure.
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some progress pics of sorting frame rust. poly strip discs, wire wheel, phosphoric acid gel treated, etch primered. just spot repairs where needed. and buzzed the previously cut passengerleft side peg bracket back with a flapdisc to flat.
it was a tough call but i decided i quite liked the patina on the black frame so rather than going for a silver respray i touched it up with black where needed. enjoy the areas where the black paint has chipped or scratched etc and it shows the original silver underneath. figured id give it a go black and see how i felt about it.
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black touchups after spot repairs ensue.
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after a lot of indecision decided to try the wheels silver, if i didnt like it id paint them black as well.
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ran a poly strip disc over the tank to tidy it up and thought id play with an idea. bit of experimenting to do with the concept but im thinking it'll work well when i do it properly. for now its staying on though
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thats it loosely assembled above. since been using and loving it again. roughly 2'' lift. yoshi stencil on the frame resprayed, got a 116 link chain sitting, an alloy swingarm ready to fit :icon_razz: and i'm just waiting on some spacers im getting machined to turn up in the post and i'll see how that goes. 10mm longer so if i were on standard gearing i wouldnt need to change the chain and therefor doesn't alter wheelbase but because im running mine on the short side i'll need to go longer.
so there we are back up to scratch. wanting to have a look at doing something different with my fuel pipe setup, fedup of modern fuel killing my lines, the wavey discs need to go as ive never really liked them they were just cheap at the time, and a swingarm swap on the cards :icon_mrgreen: for anyone wondering why? because i was sitting one night like huh i think i can make that work... it wont rust, has a larger opening for shocks giving me more options will look chunky and a bit mental to those who know the gs. should be a similar weight, linkage shouldnt need altered, that and it wont negatively effect the bike so F*** it why not.
retaining the sv wheel and fairly sure i wont need to mess with my chain run further than the couple of mm i already have for tyre clearance. should i ever chose to experiment with wider rear wheels it would allow me an easy platform to do so with but my main reason for chosing the the sv wheel always was better tyre choices foremost... then i wind up running knobblies and contradicting the reasoning. to be clear i have no interest in running massive rubber, its detrimental to the gs but then again a 180 knobbly would be mental. too much faff with offset sprockets i reckon and purely cosmetic.
really enjoying the gs again. zero f***s silly fighter scrambler build thing :icon_twisted: :thumb:
turns out it was the weird stance and wheel colour not working with the build that i was hating on, not the black frame after all. it wasn't bad looking but that doesn't make it good looking by default, it just wasn't quite right. happy with how its looking, its an ongoing process but still miss it being 50 shades of silver though.
still plan on sandblasting the frame and powder coating it, possibly silver but cant decide. really is for the sake of preserving the steel frame for as long as possible and not so much about making it look clean. long term im still half planning on wedging a big single motor in or an inline 4. just for the sake of doing something a bit different, the whole journeys just been me messing around but yeah time will tell but on the other hand i love the gs motor's character and that its a no fuss aircooled twin that will no doubt outlive me.
thus concluding a couple of hours of finally updating the build thread. glad to see people still using the forum and not everyone has fled to fb pages.
This update made my day :cheers:
Love the comment about optimum painting conditions :icon_mrgreen:
It's amazing how a zero f*cks given project thing can turn into, "I'm not really loving this" and "I'm not a fan of that" or "This is bothering me" ... I know because of going down that road too. I end up telling myself, "You're not supposed to give a f-- about this one !!" :icon_rolleyes:
I've still got the modified SV shock on my bike with the stock bones. Never did get around to swapping to the stock shock with the raising links but it's still something I'd like to do in the future.
That rear sprocket is sick, I love it.
Cheers :cheers: yeah it's been long overdue.
The frost was so typical, I was like crap I've only got today to prep and paint so... ugh let's do it :hithead: absolutely not the way to do it buts needs must sometimes.
You're so right, it's so hard not to get carried away. I guess it depends on what aspect the attitude is applied to. I guess for me it's an ideology, a disregard for doing things "properly" and adhering to expectations. Everyone wants that nice shiny thing and chases perfection with the superficial elements that whilst I can appreciate, I get my kicks out of what I feel is taking taking the opposite approach in that it's expressive, artful, full of character, true to itself and gives no f***S of people shaking their heads or sneering but to counter that it's not for intent of shock value like bosozoku builds for example, more aloof in that who cares what people think but I guess a similar ethos albeit less direct. So it's not that I don't care how it looks it's that I don't subscribe to other people's ideals in terms of how it should look or be. Really do love the thing, have/had/built other bikes that are a little more conventional and 'pretty' in approach but the gs really has been a canvas to explore some that ethos and passively express a two finger salute in the process. It'd be difficult to both love something and have zero sympathy towards it, not give a damn if it's stolen, crashed or bursts into flames. Could probably write a dissertation so I'll stop right now :icon_lol:
Yeah haha thanks, bit of a stupid one adding so much weight for the sake of something cosmetic but I really love seeing the gs with a big sprocket and it's an experiment, it's perhaps overkill at 49t but just wanted to see how extreme I could go in size without custom parts. For the record you start to get chain rub on the bottom of the frame at this size.
Currently running 16/49 which is roughly the equivalent of 13/39, it's hilariously fun around town and nipping about backroads but the revs are too high for cruising. Going to go 17/49 which is similar to 14/39 or 15/44 which I've always found to be the optimum balance of acceleration, top speed and ability to cruise comfortably but with big sprocket looks, just need to see if I'll get away with chain clearance as it grazes the frame when slack and I've previously removed material from the sprocket cover. On the plus side big sprockets will last longer than wee ones
Think it's worth playing with the raising links just for the sake of experiencing the changes in feel, it's certainly a cheaper way to do it but with already having an sv shock you're pretty set. Could always drop 5mm on the dogbones to lift another inch with the Sv shock, you'll feel straight away if it's not right.
Definitely learnt some lessons with how swingarm angle and progressiveness of the suspension is effected when you stray too far into it.
Just can't wait for the last part of the alloy swingarm puzzle to arrive, was hoping to have fitted it by now.
What a spankin update! Great pics!
award for that!
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Nice work, I admire the effort!
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on December 28, 2020, 07:57:44 AM
What a spankin update! Great pics!
award for that!
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Thanks man! Would've kept it updated as I went but tech issues. Got some tasty changes in the works, just waiting on deliveries.
alloy swinger,
Lighter weight front wheel, the straight spoke wheels are meant to be a good bit lighter than curvy spokes with the old Suzuki's.
Some rear subframe modification to clean the lines up, ie tucking the brake light in more, relocating battery, shortening wiring loom, speedholes here and there to ditch some weight.
Brake light, fazer6 or early r6 if it sits well as I've got one spare.
Vance and Hines style (think it's motad) stainless manifold without the balancing pipe, the motad exhausts are junk but it's a better design of headers, possibly an under engine exhaust or an undertail if 1. My spare link pipe works and 2. It looks good. We'll see, I'll probably get bored and change my mind. Oh that and changing up my fuel setup to something a little more conventional again
Been toying with doing a budget cafe seat as they look quite good when done right but it just seems like every build at the moment is a budget cafe build. I'd hate it to become a "theme" bike too, that and I like the oem seat and bare subframe look. Think my plan is to stay true to what the build is and make the most of what's available to me but a distressed neo cafe fighter look would've been cool.
Have you had much more progress on your mental build? It's been a while but I remember the cbr600 engined one getting put in storage, was there a firebland gs too?
Quote from: Sporty on December 29, 2020, 06:46:12 AM
Nice work, I admire the effort!
Thanks man. All about that maximum... minimum effort :icon_lol:
"Have you had much more progress on your mental build? It's been a while but I remember the cbr600 engined one getting put in storage, was there a firebland gs too?"
Yea that was same bike. I'm going to get back to it someday but it's in permastorage for now. Having seamax's bike has kept me happy. I do wish it was faster at times though :icon_mrgreen:
Can't wait to see more of your progress as your deliveries come in! :woohoo:
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on January 05, 2021, 08:10:09 AM
"Have you had much more progress on your mental build? It's been a while but I remember the cbr600 engined one getting put in storage, was there a firebland gs too?"
Yea that was same bike. I'm going to get back to it someday but it's in permastorage for now. Having seamax's bike has kept me happy. I do wish it was faster at times though :icon_mrgreen:
Can't wait to see more of your progress as your deliveries come in! :woohoo:
so it was! i always get mixed up with yours and i wanna say sheps but its been a while but i know there was two. re-read your build thread since and im still itching to see it back on the road. with doing that swingarm swap currently and looking at chain alignment i can appreciate that the cbr engine mustve been seriously offset for chain run clearance. at one point i had a spare vfr750 v4 engine sitting, wish id looked at squeezing it in to see if it wouldve worked easily. in theory it should be an easer match than the inline 4 in that regard.
some progress, some setbacks, some mucking about. still waiting on parts.
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so, stainless vance and hines style headers, believe theyre uk motad which no longer exists. love the v shape and that there isn't a balance pipe. not sure how the lack of balance pipe will effect performance, it couldve been on the factory layout for noise reduction reasons with twins being known for being louder or it couldve been to tune the power curve towards low/mid torque. likely more so the noise given the gs's market.
new headers are roughly 2mm smaller id/od diameter than the previous stainless headers i had. guessing my old ones were larger than oem and these emulate the factory size. shouldnt make any odds to the bikes performance either way. on the plus side theyre way lighter
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given that the gs sprocket retaining circlip design... is stupid and how hard the countershaft is to drill, ive opted to weld an m8 thread onto the shaft and use it to bolt a bracket on to help stop further shaft spline damage from lateral sprocket movement. mines wasnt too bad yet but this should future proof it a bit. still using a circlip and this bracket is secondary just to dampen movement.
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swapped wheel bearings over and my new machined centre spacer to prep for swingarm swap
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cut down the new cush drive spacer to match.
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caliper spacing isnt quite right but its close.
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sv shock wont line up to the shock knuckle or the gs one.
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spring catches the arm unfortunately. need either rework the linkage or use a smaller dia springed shock.
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went back to oem shock and shorter dogbones for now.
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thought id get away with trimming down the rubber chain buffer but check how massively offset it is with running a smaller wheel than intended for. will need to make something up so as to not rip the arm apart.
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so new under engine exhaust setup which im not entirely keen on but im playing with what ive got to hand. new alloy swingarm. still finessing the details and spacing but heres a sneak peak, theres several options for spacing it all up right but ive been very diy to prove the concept. i appreciate im glossing over all the details but ive got pages of notes documenting / plotting dimensions and cross referencing parts numbers across several models of bike to piece this lot together :icon_lol:
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looks meaty! weight wise the swinger feels slightly lighter but itll be legible.
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experimenting with the old remus perforated core link pipe i had on this. its a it loud to run on its own but not too bad baffled. chopped the bracket off too.
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dropped the mudguard to chop the bracket for the exhaust hanger off as its no longer getting used. not the tidiest job but awkward to do in situ so itll do for now.
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tyre swapped to lighter straight spoked front wheel. felt a good bit lighter and the curvy spoked 11 wheel felt the same as the oem gs front. wish i had workshop scales for documenting this stuff.
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remus link fitted and lighter weight front wheel fitted. matching wheels again :icon_lol: :D actualy prefer the curvy spoke look but these are lighter.
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caliper trial fitted and realised i couldnt reuse the gs caliper as the support bracket is on the wrong side once rotated :icon_lol: overlooked that aspect as it now fits under the swinger.
just realised i havent updated in a while again sooooo.
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amended the caliper orientation issue with an sv650, was meant to be from a daily ridden and well serviced but honestly might've been one of the most knackered calipers ive ever rebuilt. had a friend weld a onto one of the bolts, used serious heat and still struggled to crack the bolt loose with a metre long breaker bar with the brake in a vice... :confused: pistons totally jammed in, seized nipples... why are there so many dishonest folk :dunno_black: got it rebuilt though. some 170mm 316 stainless dogbones too.
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picked up a gsx600 kat shock for £1 + postage :icon_lol: ratty but worth a shot so see if itll clear the swingarm. looks like my standard gs shock is near solid so somethings went wrong there.
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typically because i had plans of working on the bike we got mega snowfall all week :icon_lol: just gave me a reason to press on and get out for a slide
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so shock, dogbones and a alloy shock knuckle in.
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disk alignment dialled in.
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cut the brake line guide to make removing the swingarm without removing the brake line possible.
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tried some adhesive to secure the chain buffer... didnt work but ill get back to that later.
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due to swingarm angle and massive rear sprocket the chain scuffs the frame here so ive knocked up a temporary buffer until ive corrected all these little issues.
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spent an eternity filing the swinger down by hand to clearance the shock. way better but still have issues. at a point where i dont have much more i can remove from that point either.
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decided i was going to simplify my fuel setup by returning to a vacuum petcock. theres just too much strain on the fue lines with my old setup using a ball valve under the filter.
this turned into a massive diagnostic session as id fitted this months ago, tested it on the bike and it seemed fine and hadnt touched it since. so... bike was hard starting and running only on the left cylinder, both plugs were sparking, inspected coils etc, was getting fuel out of both bowls. so cleaned the carbs. no improvement. checked the vacuum line, figured i mustve thrown the tune to hell with the new exhaust setup, had a play with the pilot screws, no luck. left the bike sitting for a bit and it started up fine on both cyls... odd. supposed i was maybe a little low on fuel or the new hose routing was causing issues and it was taking a while to fill the bowl so went away to get some, filled the tank... ran fine and dropped back to one. i wound up whipping the diagraphm and needle out of the right carb whilst it was running to see if i was getting fuel through. wasnt getting fuel through the right carb and knowing the carbs were clean and inspected i proceeded to take the bowl off of the right carb in situ and could see that i was only getting a trickle of fuel through... so tank off and put the petcock to prime to find it was barely trickling any fuel out. turns out the petcock was only trickling enough fuel to keep one bowl going. thats me glossing over a day of head scratching but what a pain that was. so returned to the thunderace petcock and ran it straight to the carb, no ball valve so if i want the fuel off/on i need to lift the tank for now. :roll:
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think... i might need to give my tank some love real soon :roll: :icon_eek:
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gave the seat underside a quick tidy up with some black paint.
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standoff spacers for the rearsets to clear the arm.
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pre seat paint.
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back together and ready to play. didnt really get a chance to that day but we got hit with some hectic snow again.
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couldnt resist some snow pics. but what a riot that was! sliding everywhere and waist high drifts in places, so much fun :thumb: :icon_twisted:
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sad to see the snow go but its been great getting out in the dry.
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forgot to take pics but i created a stainless mesh filter using an old kitchen sieve in the baffle just to take some of the rawness out of the exhaust. bike ran much better, got its punch back and ive still to get round to dialling in the carb tune forthis exhaust setup.
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new bar day! well i pinched some 33" fatbars from another project and bought some dirt cheap clamps. so the bars have less raise and more backsweep, i added a bit of height with spacers to get it almost where i was before but the back sweep transforms the bike, brings the rider weight back just that little bit and makes it feel both more agile and stable vs the trial bars i was using. i was able to lift the front end a bit more through the forks as the bars gave me a little more brake line to play with.
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not keen on the bright finish of the clamps but for now they serve a purpose. had to pick up a new master cylinder as the a bolt sheared in the cap... nightmare and so hard to extract stainless from alloy, especially when so small. ive also since fitted a faired bandit 6 clutch perch to remove the mirror bolt on the standard gs one. silly little thing but it really tidies up the bars.
^^^ VID.
was out tuning the carbs (hence not in leathers). its running damn strong but the session was cut short. what you dont see in that vid is the wrecked chain buffer that i had used adhesive on had lifted, went through the front sprocket and luckily just knocked the clutch cable off... no damage but :roll: think learning to ride clutchless is a must for all riders, absolutely a skill worth having. clutchless upshifts are far too satisfying too.
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wee bit of chain rash from running without a buffer n the return journey.
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utilizing a spare gs chain buffer but ive had to split it to fit the height. what ive done it poke some holes in the strips and bridge them with cable ties. ive secured the buffer with a really good adhesive/seam sealer this time and i think i might make something up using the bolt on the side of the swinger to secure the strips a bit better. not sure what im thinking with that yet though. really the sealant ive used should mre than do the job but id rather not risk repeating my mistake. what i should really do is get some nylon sheet, thermoform it and drill the swing arm for rivnuts and use countersunk bolts but im just working with what ive got to hand at the moment.
Superglue sticks to rubber pretty well. Just get all the oil n grease off first.
Quote from: SK Racing on April 14, 2021, 04:13:45 PM
Superglue sticks to rubber pretty well. Just get all the oil n grease off first.
Is there anything superglue can't fix? :icon_lol: actually never considered superglue but that's a damn good idea. Cheers :thumb: I've used puraflex 40 which is really good polyurethane sealant, great for the likes of seam sealing cars do should more than do the job. I think the first adhesive I used must've been out of date as it was ancient. Gonna use your suggestion but run a bead of super glue round the outside edges just for some added grip. Really... I should just make something nylon up from scratch. Think my swingarm angle extra thickness of the arm might be just causing a little too much rub and that's what pulled the old one off. Bit annoying as I think the height is just about perfect for me. Trial and error though.
Thank you thank you thank you for the entertaining update as usual... I still love seeing all the different phases this bike goes through :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on April 15, 2021, 07:22:43 PM
Thank you thank you thank you for the entertaining update as usual... I still love seeing all the different phases this bike goes through :icon_mrgreen:
thanks showbiz. :cheers: do it purely for my own amusement but always happy to hear other people get it. if you were in scotland i'd throw you the keys for a day, its just such a fun little bike. :icon_lol: :thumb: its not as sketchy as it looks :icon_lol: :icon_mrgreen: honest
had a few short trips out recently, always a laugh. suspension setup felt a bit all over the place. forks need rebuilt, rear gsxf6 shock preload adjuster is totally seized and set a bit stiff, the swingarms marginally longer, change of front and rear ride heights and the change of linkage meant that... yeah lots of factors changing at once. was finding it wanted to run wide in every corner no matter what the input was and that the rear was far too stiff.
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put in a wee session to amend the shock situation, managed to get the sv shock back in after a lot of grinding and a change of dogbones to 175, it no longer pinches the swingarm between its springs, its still grazing slightly which slows the rebound slightly when static but i figure F**K it, itll rub till it sorts itself out. so my unused headlight vertical adjustment bracket was sitting a bit loose so i went to pull it off annnnnnd it tore the steel. currently taken it off to get it patched and running without a headlight. its just about summer and light till 8pm ish so its fine enough.
difficult to show the extent of material removed for clearance but im not too happy with taking any more out. pics might have been before i took even more out.
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spline on my old gear lever was well passed it, had temporarily fitted a standard item in its place without the modified linkage but it just wasnt the nicest to ride. so cut my new one down, drilled it refitted the freshly wire wheeled and and lacquered cbr linkage and spaced things slightly to improve clearances to its previous setup. shifts like butter and zero faff finding nuetral again.
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actually love it with no headlight, looks a bit mad. also mounted my old exhaust can back on, looks a bit more finished i thought. seems to run a bit better like this too, even with a bit of tuning the previous baffled link setup left it feeling a bit flat up top when flat out. need to finesse the tune again but its running sweeter. i love tuning carbs but i just dont have the time right now.
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few pics cuz' i couldnt help myself. the rear ride height seems to be up slightly over the gsxf shock / 170 dogbone setup, annoyingly i've lost track of my geometry changes though. i'll need to check my trail to make sure its safe enough but i dont have any of my base measurements for heights anymore. its certainly feeling the best it has in a while. plenty agile and stable.
oh its been a while. admittedly i doubt i've done 1000 miles on the gs this year, just a wee run every couple of weeks.
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so i utilized a broken old dom headlight and mounted it sketchily to see what like / fill he gap so i was likely to get bother :police:
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unfortunately got a slow puncture in the front and to be honest the tyre was knackered anyway so i pinched a tyre tyres from another project so i could still use of the bike. it was weird being back on road tyres! the bike handles with so much more finesse. the fresh front tyre has added so much height as well and changed the stance.
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a friend repaired the headlight. painted it black but the lacquer went cloudy with moisture in the air.
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stripped the rust from the tank bottom and acid treated to stop it spreading.
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cleaned up, etch primed and painted the whole tank black... to be honest, completely regretted it but it was just a wee change. looked alright but also just looked like a half assed ratty gs so it kind of lost its edge.
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flipped the headlight brackets to bring the headlight closer to the forks. also tried a different exhaust setup. the side profile works but the link pipe cocked the end can out too much at the tip which looked weird to me.
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got sick of the matte black so stripped it back and lacquered it rather than leaving it raw steel this time. just for some protection.
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lowered the rear slightly to help the sit in a better place and not foul the buffers so much, thats probably the biggest issue with this swingarm, just how thick it is. but you can also tell that the small rear height change has made the under engine exhaust angle change and nw it just looks a bit... saggy. just needs a bit of a tweak.
the gs has kind of become a side project for when i'm bored and a utility for when the cars out of commission. not long finished up the cbr fighter but thats off the road till the salts washed away in spring. gsxr needs fork stanchions as the bushes have worn and allowed the seals to eat through the chrome.
i've come up with a less sketchy way of mounting the smaller headlight, didnt have pictures from before i dont think but damn it wasnt ideal. so i'll get that sorted soon, the wee light is more of a cosmetic thing as it functions enough to get by at night if need be but i dont plan on much night riding with it. and i'll need to straighten up the exhaust because its bugging me to hell.
so couple of wee updates to come yet. need to pick up another front knobbly tyre too, that overly aggressive tkc80 just adds so much of that no fucks style i love to the bike
How did you know an update to this thread was just what I needed :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen:
A friend/co-worker of mine has been enjoying the thread with me recently too. We both enjoyed the pic with the small headlight mounted to the side and agree that the silver tank looks better :thumb:
Spankin great update! Love it. Actually I liked the black on black,... :star: but hey love it all the same!
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on October 20, 2021, 10:14:13 PM
How did you know an update to this thread was just what I needed :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen:
A friend/co-worker of mine has been enjoying the thread with me recently too. We both enjoyed the pic with the small headlight mounted to the side and agree that the silver tank looks better :thumb:
Ah showbiz i just had that gut feeling :thumb: glad you's are enjoying it. Cheers guys :cheers:
The tank went black just to preserve the bare steel from rusting up, its such a pain to keep bare steel from flash rusting. Definetly prefer the bare look so ive comprimised and just clear lacquered it. Short term solution because they always oxidise a little undearneath the coating. Had some ideas i wanted to try with contrasting black textures on the tank but never got round to it.
I do quite like the smaller light as well but once again its just a comprimise with what ive got lying around but its sits so much tighter against the forks. If i werent using an mt03 headlight on my other long term build id have one on the gs.
Think i need to decide on what im doing with the gs and commit as its got a bit of a personality crisis going on :icon_lol:
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on October 21, 2021, 10:37:34 AM
Spankin great update! Love it. Actually I liked the black on black,... :star: but hey love it all the same!
Thanks man :cheers: yeah i quite liked it for about 2 days and slowly resented it more and more. I think it photographed well but in person it looked really tired. Probably a combination of various things not sitting right on the bike too though.
Think my plan is make some decisions with the build cosmetically and stick to it. Got an idea for the subframe thatll let me keep the same seat and profile but just tidy it up a bit. Probably going to repaint the frame silver as it used to look pretty sweet with the silver on silver. Id like to do a ktm mask style headlight to tidy up that area but the light output is abysmal on every one ive seen, oh and get some knobbly tyres back on it too. Ah im just missing that mad street scrambler vibe.
first big run ive had it out on this year, up into the cairngorms. performed well considering i forgot i still haven't got round to setting up the carbs to suit recent exhaust changes and the forks still need rebuilt. really need to get another tkc80 front so i can get it back on silly knobbly tyres.
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:woohoo: always great to come in on a morning, boot up gstwins and see a stack of pics! :star:
Awesomesauce for sure!
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on November 15, 2021, 07:52:03 AM
:woohoo: always great to come in on a morning, boot up gstwins and see a stack of pics! :star:
Awesomesauce for sure!
brace yourself, more pics imminent. :icon_razz: :thumb:
excuse the shocking phone cam quality, it doesn't handle low light very well. its amazing how much a set of tyres can change the visual tone of a bike.
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so, been using the bike a bunch recently. we're coming into winter so temps have been down, starting to get snow and ice here an there and the bikes just been running without any of that punchy response and aggression i love about it and it's damn near impossible to start the last week but i've had no time to look at it.
gave the carbs a clean and a quick once over the other day and found this gem...
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broken diaphragm spring. what the hell.
put me in a bit of a predicament as the carbs have a dynojet kit, ie shorter/softer springs, modified slides and aggressively tapered needles. all these elements are designed to work together to get the carbs onto the main circuit quicker from my understanding so you cant really mix dj with non dj parts and expect decent results. i've got no intent of buying dj parts either.
anyway, luckily i've got spare carbs so i went to swap needles, mains, non modified sliders and standard springs in to realise that i cant find my 150 mains, just a selection of my spares from over the years. so i just chucked the standard springs in and left the rest for that evening... damn the punch it gave the bike low down, i forgot just how punchy it is. throttle snaps shut quicker with the stiffer spring mind you but its been a while since the bike wheelied with ease. bikes running better all round understandably but its just not what it used to be. i'd put the rougher running down to being tuned on a scorching hot day and the change of exhaust.
soooo. the price of jets seems to be about double what i used to pay and i dont wanna wait for shipping so i've done something a little oldschool tonight and hopefully i'll set the carbs up tomorrow again.
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note the following is inaccurate, i read it wrong. DJ is in mm and mikuni is based on flow rate. Mikuni to dj/mm mikuni150=160dj = 1.6mm. Closest drill i have is 1/16 which is 1.587mm which takes me between mikuni 147.5 and 150, which is pretty good, might be a tiny bit lean top end on my setup. From what ive read mikuni use tapered jets so the cross referencing isnt completley accurate but its close enough. Not sure if our gs jets are tapered or its just a sweeping statement
found some 115s which i'll never use again. so done a quick bit of research into mikuni sizing and i've drilled them out to 1.5mm aka 150, pic shows the difference in ID. anyone considering using the same method bare in precision is really important. afterwards i flattened back the spec stamped into the head, scribed 150 for reference with a sewing needle and dipped them in hydrochloric acid just to strip the fuel varnish off and brighten them back up. best of a crap situation but it'll get the job done.
gonna check float height and do a balance too. if its still running off it'll be compression test and valve clearance check time.
???
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on November 29, 2021, 10:53:35 AM
???
:icon_lol: :icon_mrgreen: ah its always something isnt it. Annoyingly i've lost my 1/16th drill bit so ive just ordered a 1.6mm in. Now we play the waiting game
:thumb:
Hey you're still at it though! Much respect!
Thanks man :cheers: its just a bit of fun for the most part. The gs is a bit of a forever side project for me, itll never be finished and i'll never part with it. So many people see it as wasted time as the gs is seen as being just a boring commuter bike but Those who get it, get it though and its far from boring, its a riot to hoon about on :thumb: always cracks me up, the "what... Is that?!" often followed by "fkin'ell why've you done that?!" :confused:
The cbr fighters roadworthy at last, so that's gonna be a laugh in spring :thumb:
where's 'at thread and pics on the cbr again? :dunno_black:
:icon_mrgreen:
Dynojet never supplied slide springs for a GS. They may have for other bikes, but not a GS.
They slowed the slide rise by suggesting you block one hole etc, so a solfter spring would be counter productive to their jet kit's flaw anyway.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: The Buddha on December 01, 2021, 04:01:08 AM
Dynojet never supplied slide springs for a GS. They may have for other bikes, but not a GS.
They slowed the slide rise by suggesting you block one hole etc, so a solfter spring would be counter productive to their jet kit's flaw anyway.
Cool.
Buddha.
Oh you got me thinking there, see i had a spare set of carbs that turned out to be setup using of dj parts and mikuni jets, never seemed to be quite right for 1 reason or another, it remains a mystery. Once i realised that the needles etc were dj i yoinked the bits to play with and set it up with cross referenced mikuni mains.
I had assumed they were dj springs, as they were shorter and softer like dj are on most bikes.
Anyway being curious and given that ive got a spring oddity / its a rarity youre wrong ive just had a quick look on the dynojet site. Its only giving US info on the pdfs but up to 00' they didnt get springs in the kit but 01+/F got the springs. Being in the uk im not sure if we got different kits. Ive definetley got shorter / softer springs but cant quantify their origin as they're from a set of bst33 mystery carbs however the bsr34s got them in the kit fosho'. Could be a regional thing that we got them in the uk or someone's used bsr34 dj springs... Who knows, either way ones snapped.
Yeah they plug/s the slide to slow it down, suggest removing a plug for stage 3, youre right it does seem counterintuitive, id assume the softer spring in part works with the lesser forces, to compliment the plugged diapgragm a bit more. Itll slow the diaphragm returning too, so i guess itll open quicker if its slower returning on decel to throttle modulation but also removing the plug will help reduce both the slowing effects. Its all just to bring a little more control to the aggressive needle taper so that its not on/off or lifting so quick that it gets too much fuel in that given operating range should it be opened up too quick but they also use dignificantly smaller mains. Im purely speculating and trying to rationalise their logic. Really they're just using different parameters to arrive at the same conclusion for the sake of getting it onto main circuit marginally sooner. Ive never really put any thought into why they do it tgat way to be honest. Id be interested to see back to back dyno sheets of tuned vs dj tuned just to see what differences there are and where with both stage 1 and 3. Id imagine any differences are nominal. Once again im speculating off the top of my head. Going to see what literature i can dig up on such effects purely for my own curiosity.
I love playing with carbs, i can say my experience with dj kit on the gs vs just tuning on std slides/needles is that i seemed to pick up good initial punch in the 1/8th to 1/4 throttle, little bit better as it enters mid range but that's about it and 4/4 was good but was never quite as good as before the kit, always felt like i was between jet sizes. Cant quantify with dyno data but did a lot of back to back testing. Albeit i dunno like 5 yr ago.
I know there's certain applications ie different bikes where using factorypro has shown to be optimal rather over just jetting, think they use ti needles and different tapers broadly speaking. id assume dj has its place too but really is it worth the money to get a kit... Hell no. Thats ultimately my issue with them.
Be curious to hear your experiences with the dj kits or thoughts on any of it, personally id never waste my money on a their kits, not sure if theres any valid merrit to them but i suspect its largely gimmick.
But yeah you've got me thinking, the springs are a mystery so im gonna double check ive got the right dj needles in for the bst33s, if so it means i can run standard springs, pull the plug/s out and tune to suit.
Once i find a cheap source of jets i'll look at comparing 1 tune vs dj tune again for a bit of fun. Sourcing the right size drills and shaft deviation have turned drilling jets into a no go for now.
"I love playing with carbs" :cookoo:
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