Hey y'all. So my key cylinder has been a little sticky ever since I got the bike. I've had to jiggle the key just right to get it to turn.
Today i turned the key to the lock position and now no amount of giggling will get it to unlock!
So can one of you guys with a parts bike spare a gas cap and ignition key cylinder? If you can throw in the top triple clamp that would be most convenient.
Thanks guys!
Edited: the title to remove "WTB"
http://www.amazon.com/Ignition-Switch-Suzuki-GSX400-GK79A/dp/B016BKZRWI (http://www.amazon.com/Ignition-Switch-Suzuki-GSX400-GK79A/dp/B016BKZRWI) :cool:
Does anyone here have experience with the quality of the aftermarket key cylinders?
Since getting just these parts off a member of this board seems unlikely I went ahead and purchased the aftermarket ones and we'll see how they are in terms of quality and fit.
I got the key to unlock after a lot lot lot of jiggling.
Quote from: lucas on January 19, 2016, 06:24:06 PM
Since getting just these parts off a member of this board seems unlikely I went ahead and purchased the aftermarket ones and we'll see how they are in terms of quality and fit.
I got the key to unlock after a lot lot lot of jiggling.
I look forward to your review, as I'm going to be buying one of those sets myself when I finally get my bike home, as the current owner lost the * >:( * keys! :2guns:
When are you going to get that bike already? Let the project begin
Quote from: lucas on January 19, 2016, 10:31:43 PM
When are you going to get that bike already? Let the project begin
In theory; Monday or Tuesday, but nothing is guaranteed. I'm just waiting for my pile of crap car to sell. Supposedly a buyer will be coming by on Sunday with intentions to buy it. . . :dunno_black:
On the upside, supposedly the owner found the keys. . . :woohoo:
Good luck and I really hope you sell your car! ! What kind is it ?
And woot about the keys!!! :D
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on January 22, 2016, 05:43:12 AM
Good luck and I really hope you sell your car! ! What kind is it ?
And woot about the keys!!! :D
A fairly decent PT Cruiser. Astonishing how well they hold their value, but people will still try to nickle-and-dime you. . . :2guns: :mad:
I was stoked to hear it too! We'll see if its true or not in a few days. . . :thumb:
I'm a mopar girl so... sad to hear about ya having to part with your Cruiser. Don't let anyone talk ya down from what you want! It can be hard, I know... I sold my Valiant a few years ago for less than I wanted but I was really picky about who I would sell it to... it was still in really awesome shape and I didn't want it abused.
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on January 22, 2016, 09:50:34 AM
I'm a mopar girl so... sad to hear about ya having to part with your Cruiser. Don't let anyone talk ya down from what you want! It can be hard, I know... I sold my Valiant a few years ago for less than I wanted but I was really picky about who I would sell it to... it was still in really awesome shape and I didn't want it abused.
This is my second Mopar car. I had a 1990 Dakota that I dearly miss, so I'm sad to see this one go, but I can't afford to chase after pre-existing abuse. . . :cry:
Ok so the package came in the mail.
I installed the gas cap and it fits and works nice.
Before I started messing with the ignition key cylinder I checked the electrical connection first to make sure that it worked properly. I found that the electrical connector does not fit this bike. It might be possible with the correct supplies and tools to modify this to fit... but not the kind of thing a casual motorcycle owner would like to do.
I requested a return, we will see how it goes:
"Hello, I hope this message finds you well. Unfortunately the item I received is not compatible with my motorcycle. The electrical connection for the ignition key unit does not fit. The electrical connection on this is too large and has male terminals, it should be smaller and have female terminals. I have a 1992 GS500 and this item was listed as compatible with '89-'00 GS500. I have attached a photo comparing the original Suzuki unit (bottom / green) with the one I received (top / white). As you can see the white connector is substantially larger and has a different style of terminal. Thank you for your attention in this matter. Lucas."
(http://i.imgur.com/XyusY5p.jpg)
Also note that the blue coloring around the key hole is colored plastic film that comes off easily/not at all. It scratched first thing and showed the silver behind it so I picked at it to peel the rest off... leaving a rim of torn and impossible to grab plastic film bits all round.
Why do I always get suckered in by cheaply made garbage?? ?? ?? ?? Greed I suppose.
Gotta love companies who check backwards compatibility. . . :technical:
Bunch of lazy sods!
Alright so an update is in order.
The seller offered me a refund and would give me my money back if I shipped it back to them. Too lazy, I already installed the gas cap, too lazy, and I thought I would make this thing work.
I got around to adapting this switch to work on my GS. After wrestling with drilling out the old ignition switch for ages and ages I got the old switch out and my plan was to swap the electrical connector from the old switch onto the new one. I have a supply of electrical blade terminals so I thought this was going to be easy.
So naive. Always so naive.
Since the colors of the wires on the new unit did not match the original I pulled out the multimeter to see which wires corresponded to which. I was looking for two circuits to be made when the ignition switch was set to "on" like out it shows in the electrical diagrams. However when set to "on" the new unit showed three of the four wires were connected (0 ohms resistance) and one wire was apparently unused, it never made a circuit with any of the other wires.
Great.
I drilled out the bolts on the bottom of the old unit and unscrewed the new one and compared the insides. The circuitry inside is indeed different.
NEW on the left OLD on the right in the photos below.
(http://imgur.com/7ecpMzq.jpg)
(http://imgur.com/qBMCjic.jpg)
(http://imgur.com/7ruUurn.jpg)
Conveniently, the inner bits were compatible so I swapped over the plastic disk thing with the (clipped, stupidly) wires, and also the white plastic turny bit, and sliced the wires back together and verified that it all worked using my multimeter and then installed it back onto the bike.
(http://imgur.com/WMwz9es.jpg)
I won't mention how the holes in the new ignition switch didn't match up with the bike and that I had to drill and file the switch in order to get it to fit...
Jeez I'm a sucker.
At least it works now and the key doesn't get stuck when I lock the bike. Works for now. I wish I didn't torture myself with this awful imported garbage crap parts good for nothing no quality control knock off imitation sub par worthless trash. I guess that is my style though, maybe I should just accept who I am.
Still about the only option I have, as there are no locksmiths near me who will touch a motorcycle ignition switch, and the nearest one is an hour away. >:(
I'm thinking about giving it to my motorcycle mechanic friend who lives in Orlando and letting him source a locksmith by him. . .
The easiest option might be to go for something like this
http://m.ebay.com/itm/2009-09-Suzuki-GS500F-Ignition-Key-Switch-Gas-Fuel-Cap-Seat-Lock-KEY-SET-/201502152200?nav=SEARCH
It is much easier to replace the entire top triple clamp than to drill out the break-away bolts. Maybe about the same cost as a locksmith? Not sure
Or you could still try getting an aftermarket ignition switch. Just try to get one with the type of connector in the pictures above, the green one with four female terminals. Look at the product pictures closely.
Since yours was hardwired you can buy a new electrical connector for your bike at this website:
http://www.cycleterminal.com/250-connectors.html#SC250
Either of the 4 pin options will work, one has a flange but that makes no difference. You want to get a male connector and male terminals. (Even tho the male connector goes outside the female... They are named after the terminals inside to keep things consistent) Buy some extra terminals so you can practice crimping them on.
Quote from: lucas on February 24, 2016, 11:04:10 AM
The easiest option might be to go for something like this
http://m.ebay.com/itm/2009-09-Suzuki-GS500F-Ignition-Key-Switch-Gas-Fuel-Cap-Seat-Lock-KEY-SET-/201502152200?nav=SEARCH
It is much easier to replace the entire top triple clamp than to drill out the break-away bolts. Maybe about the same cost as a locksmith? Not sure
THANK YOU FOR THAT!!! :woohoo:
That'll do nicely. :cool:
OK, I've stripped down the switch, and it looks nothing like the "wrong" one shown above.
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t34.0-12/13020515_1295042200509127_1343019593_n.jpg?oh=c7b9ec628d05fcbe216f4987685f6d6d&oe=57132551)
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t35.0-12/13035654_1295043173842363_1540983212_o.jpg?oh=7bc91db18647b2cf1604c3cfc97b4527&oe=57132041)
Will this one work?
Input needed!!!
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t34.0-12/13014927_1295053960507951_1389104179_n.jpg?oh=e07e6d05d5d6495d5bbd63e7bb7f58e4&oe=571314D9)
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xal1/v/t34.0-12/13020051_1295053967174617_71840027_n.jpg?oh=c33aba5faeeb5a15c3b27ce624a6b264&oe=5713127C)
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t34.0-12/12988122_1295053947174619_1195901226_n.jpg?oh=70adbe3e80a44faa991c58bba131e8b7&oe=57131E50)
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t34.0-12/13020497_1295062957173718_230747347_n.jpg?oh=c0f2f1aae1261180dcfe137a70c5cecc&oe=5713134B)
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t35.0-12/13000645_1295203563826324_979025799_o.jpg?oh=c68e0c4e54273cf7088d952b89e9cee2&oe=5713CA00)
:woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:I figured it out!!! :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:
I can do a break-down if needed! :thumb:
:woohoo:
Yes, please share the solution. I'd like to know what you figured out.
The problem of the wiring of the switch lied with the switch not making the connections needed. I did a break-down of what wire went where and what setting did what:
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/v/t34.0-12/12992980_1295183070495040_594321684_n.jpg?oh=493707948af845ec452bb56183bbcf19&oe=5713E2BF)
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t34.0-12/13023347_1295183840494963_635828411_n.jpg?oh=4696d23abb8c019f2580f54ae17a7df3&oe=57139BFE)
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t34.0-12/13020542_1295183807161633_182613558_n.jpg?oh=2d27aa20b1c62c704737645cb7b0f250&oe=57141648)
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t34.0-12/13023694_1295183833828297_855365364_n.jpg?oh=07e752bde1d00b1b04c07cd82bca7c48&oe=5713D67E)
After doing this, I worked out what it wasn't doing as needed by the bike:
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t35.0-12/13000645_1295203563826324_979025799_o.jpg?oh=c68e0c4e54273cf7088d952b89e9cee2&oe=5713CA00)
My solution was to do a slight modification to the "rotor of the switch by relocating one of the contacts so it would change how everything went together:
(https://fbcdn-photos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t34.0-0/p206x206/13023509_1295358047144209_3499327_n.jpg?oh=9b8c833ef5ec29145cf839aef9d9c4e5&oe=5713AEE5&__gda__=1460908972_6f74afe077af74d1b7c7b0f16104a12c)
I then worked out what I needed power to in order to get the lights to do what they were supposed to:
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t34.0-12/12992816_1295358033810877_773160918_n.jpg?oh=fffe22a65027785ee5a38e8101283856&oe=5713CB20)
Ignore my messy soldering, it was my first try. LOL! :thumb:
I put a bridge in to run power from the red line (from the battery) to the "dead-end" which now provided power to the "park" mode. In the "Lock" position, no power runs to anything, as the connections that are there are inert because of no power from the battery.
THE TRADE-OFF: The "Park Mode" will now illuminate the headlight, tail-light, and gauges. It was the only solution I could come up with without major modifications to anything.
You don't need parking lights anyway :cheers:
Quote from: lucas on April 15, 2016, 05:41:42 PM
You don't need parking lights anyway :cheers:
Not unless you want to make it look pretty in a pic without locking the wheel. A person could add a switch if needed for that, though. LOL! :thumb:
The lights will come on when you turn the key to the On position. :rstar: :star: :rstar:
Quote from: lucas on April 15, 2016, 11:15:32 PM
The lights will come on when you turn the key to the On position. :rstar: :star: :rstar:
Yep. :thumb: