Behold it's decrepit-ness and weep for me!
:icon_eek: :icon_eek: :icon_eek: :o :o :o :confused: :confused: :confused: :icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol:
(https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/12705713_1243389425674405_5968447933898973753_n.jpg?oh=83f7c3d86be78f8e1da7912415ac6e44&oe=57705BC1)
I'm about to get very friendly and talkative on here!
All the help I can get will be greatly appreciated! :cool:
Heaven knows I'll need all the help I can get to un-f*ck this bike up! :2guns:
WOOT it has arrived!!!!! I am super excited for this thread :D
Yeah! Finally. Take lots of pics, make sure to go over every last detail and get this thing running like a top and it will serve you well for years.
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on February 12, 2016, 08:09:51 PM
WOOT it has arrived!!!!! I am super excited for this thread :D
You and me both! :thumb: :cheers: :woohoo:
Quote from: lucas on February 12, 2016, 10:57:31 PM
Yeah! Finally. Take lots of pics, make sure to go over every last detail and get this thing running like a top and it will serve you well for years.
I shall indeed! The breakdown begins now! :thumb:
Ok, here's the initial impressions:
1) I need a whole new keyset. The previous owners somehow managed to lose them, so they replaced the gas-tank lock (not very well), but I need keys to be able to do testing and anything else. >:(
Anybody got a spare set of keys, switches, and locks they're willing to let go cheap? If not, is there an alternative that doesn't cost me well over $100 through a lock-smith? The EMGO ignition switch has compatibility issues, I know that. . .2) Every panel, the tank, seat, and gauges are loose. I need to strip the bike down, but since I lack the keys, I'm going to have to work around the latching mechanism. Any suggestion other than research the wiki (I'm already doing this, but its always good to double-check)?
3) I have a strong suspicion the rear wheel is either improperly aligned or it's not spaced correctly, as it makes a squeaking noise once every revolution while pushing and there's significant rub-marks in the rear fender-well. :2guns:
EDIT; LATER EVALUATION: The rear brake is dragging on the rear rotor, implying over-tightness. The rub-marks seem to be from an exceeded weight-limit coupled with a worn rear shock. (The leading theory)4) The suspension seems really soft, but a friend says it doesn't seem so bad. Are there adjustment points I need to look at, or is there a method for gauging how much travel they should have from static? :dunno_black:
EDIT; LATER EVALUATION: See above explanation.5) If more info is needed, what pictures would you all like to see to do (limited) theoretical diagnostics? :confused:
As a note: I have a certified motorcycle mechanic friend who vows to help me work on this, as well as a friend who knows bikes very well. I've been doing research for a while on this bike, but every bit of input helps! :bowdown:
Thanks in advance, guys!!! :cheers:
Accidentally locked my seat on once after removing the lock and cable. I used a long flathead screwdriver to activate the latch from the opposite side to push the latch open.
Quote from: Joester41 on February 14, 2016, 06:01:35 AM
Accidentally locked my seat on once after removing the lock and cable. I used a long flathead screwdriver to activate the latch from the opposite side to push the latch open.
Thanks! I''l see what I can do!
=========================================================================================
In regards to the ignition switch, it looks like it may have been replaced with an Emgo switch already, as it lacks any markings and has been hard-wired into the wiring harness. While this is not really a massive problem, I have no idea what evil "bolts" they used to secure the assembly, as they seem to be smaller than 4mm! :confused: :2guns:
How the heck do I get the assembly off?!? >:( There's no bolts on the top of the triple-tree (I took everything apart to check), so how the heck is it removed? Please tell me I don't have to get a drill out. . . :sad:
HELP!EDIT: I'M AN IDIOT AND I REALIZE THAT THERE ARE NO BOLTS BENEATH THERE, ONLY "SLIP-RINGS" AS I CALL THEM, AND I BELIEVE ALL I NEED TO DO IS CAREFULLY PRY THE ASSEMBLY OFF THE BARS AND GO FROM THERE. . .Aside from that, I replaced the oil and the oil filter (using that wonderful wiki! :wink: ) and it looked great! So no worries about water seeping into the case past the rings! I put fresh plugs in, so everything is ready to rock there for later testing. Now to remove the seat to see what the air filter looks like and stare at the carbs balefully, because I really don't want to remove them and strip them apart. . . :2guns:
That aint no basket case. Its a runner. In my hands it is the finished end product.
Looks like trash, and runs like a champ.
Cool.
Buddha.
If you search you will find multiple threads about how to remove a locked seat, it is definitely doable.
Buck up, you can handle the carbs. Inspect the rubber boots, the rubber diaphragm, the rubber o rings. Diassemble them completely, ensure the choke needles slide easily, inspect the fuel valve and float are in good shape (the service manual has drawings of acceptable wear on the fuel valve needle thing), make sure the fuel needle slides easy in the metal tube it goes in.
Use screwdrivers in good condition, don't strip your jets. The idle jet needs a flat head screwdriver that is long but not too wide, I filed one of mine down to be about .200 wide.
Take this opportunity to carefully drill out the fuel mixture screw plugs.
Completely disassemble. You can get the plastic slide guides (white plastic) out using a long m5 or m6 bolt, can't remember which.
Clean everything. I used a dilute solution of citric acid in a big pot of boiling water (using a camp stove outside, it stinks bad) scrubbed with brass brushes and guitar strings and then dried with wd40 and paper towels. Blow all the little passages out with a can of compressed air, like you use for keyboards.
You can't really skip this step, your bike will not run right with gunky old carbs.
I saw a GS in a lowes parking lot, that was from out of state and had the key on the triple busted out and legit just had a screw driver down in there.. seemed to work for that guy.. [ps if you're lurking and see this, it was an all matte'd out black GS]
Quote from: The Buddha on February 14, 2016, 07:32:04 PM
That aint no basket case. Its a runner. In my hands it is the finished end product.
Looks like trash, and runs like a champ.
Cool.
Buddha.
Thanks for the vote of confidence? :confused: :wink: :thumb:
Quote from: J_Walker on February 14, 2016, 11:05:24 PM
I saw a GS in a lowes parking lot, that was from out of state and had the key on the triple busted out and legit just had a screw driver down in there.. seemed to work for that guy.. [ps if you're lurking and see this, it was an all matte'd out black GS]
While I applaud someone for finding unorthodox solutions to their problems, I personally prefer to have everything functional if possible. :icon_neutral:
Also: "Murdered Out" bikes (everything black) are rubbish in my opinion. Especially if you're like the PO of my bike who seemed to have just drunkenly spray-painted literally every surface of the bike barring the indicators, headlight, and gauge faces. Paint-runs everywhere. . . >:(
Quote from: lucas on February 14, 2016, 08:40:15 PM
If you search you will find multiple threads about how to remove a locked seat, it is definitely doable.
Buck up, you can handle the carbs.
I'll look into those threads! :thumb:
Thanks for the vote of confidence! I'll take a look at them today, gird my loins, and carefully strip them down and clean them. :cheers:
OK, I manned up and tore the front of my bike apart so I could get to the switch and then tore the seat, tank, and side covers off so I could get to the battery and the carbs.
The upper triple-tree clamp came off with not too much of a fuss:
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj143/tk4361/My%20bike/20160215_110150_zpslxhd1nop.jpg)
I then discovered that the ignition switch was an aftermarket switch that the PO had hard-wired in:
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj143/tk4361/My%20bike/20160215_102330_zps0pldiimm.jpg)
and those cursed bolts: >:(
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj143/tk4361/My%20bike/20160215_102206_zpsl8yu3xhr.jpg)
Upon removing the tank, I discovered something surprising. My bike seems to be missing something:
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj143/tk4361/My%20bike/20160215_114506_zpsrw4raojg.jpg)
That's right! There's no airbox! >:(
But the Carbs say Mikuni? :icon_eek: :confused: :dunno_black:
So I removed them for cleaning:
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj143/tk4361/My%20bike/20160215_135334_zpspqainptn.jpg)
and carefully pulled them apart and set them out for drying:
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj143/tk4361/My%20bike/20160215_162028_zpsztcmjvku.jpg)
Pretty clean all things considered! :thumb:
What now? Are my Mikuni's stock or aftermarket? My two motorcycle mechanic friends are urging me to get pod filters and call it a day, but I don't know. . . :icon_neutral:
Pod filters and jet it. :thumb:
Also, not sure what the frame paint is like on pre 2004 bikes, but acetone works well for removing bad spray paint jobs... Acetone didn't take any of my stock frame paint off when I prepped mine for paint (2005).
Quote from: Joester41 on February 15, 2016, 06:51:23 PM
Pod filters and jet it. :thumb:
Also, not sure what the frame paint is like on pre 2004 bikes, but acetone works well for removing bad spray paint jobs... Acetone didn't take any of my stock frame paint off when I prepped mine for paint (2005).
According to my motorcycle mechanic friend, after reviewing pics I sent him, the jets are correctly shimmed. :thumb:
As for the acetone, I'll have to pick up a container of it at some point. Its sad because the original color of the tank and plastics was that beautiful turquoise green. :sad:
EDIT: 4th post updated.
Those are stock carbs and your air box is indeed missing. I got 10 bucks for mine selling on this website, you might ask around in the for sale section.
You have to drill out the bolts for the ignition key cylinder. Those bolts shear off when you tighten them so it is more difficult for a thief to steal your motorcycle. Your ignition key cylinder also locks your handle bars which is important because hot wiring a motorcycle is extremely simple and takes only a couple seconds. If your steering is locked the thief can only drive around in tight little circles.
Also I disagree that murdered out bikes are rubbish. That is just a style (or color?) of motorcycle that you aren't a fan of. I also don't like seeing shoddy craftsmanship. You have a Canadian crap-load of over spray on that motorcycle!!
Good luck with the project, take your time and you'll do fine. :thumb:
I am loving the updates so far. I'm not sure where would be the cheapest place to get acetone (in a large amount) but I've always bought it at the dollar store. Seems a little bit of it goes a long way :thumb:
That would indeed break my heart too about the original color of the tank and plastics... I am a fan of that turquoise color as well :icon_sad:
Forgive me if I missed it somewhere along the way but what are your paint scheme plans/do you have any ideas yet?
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on February 16, 2016, 11:32:41 AM
I am loving the updates so far. I'm not sure where would be the cheapest place to get acetone (in a large amount) but I've always bought it at the dollar store. Seems a little bit of it goes a long way :thumb:
That would indeed break my heart too about the original color of the tank and plastics... I am a fan of that turquoise color as well :icon_sad:
Forgive me if I missed it somewhere along the way but what are your paint scheme plans/do you have any ideas yet?
I don't have a definitive color scheme selected, but I was leaning towards a metallic electric blue and gold:
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj143/tk4361/My%20bike/Goals_zpsuo0745bj.png)
(A quick photo-manip to give you an idea)
I do want to put a Cafe-style seat on it as well, but that's all in theory right now; I'm not focused on it at the moment, as I want to get it running first.
That is really a sharp idea IMO... that gold and blue looks very nice together! Thank you for answering and providing a pic too :D
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on February 18, 2016, 01:37:30 AM
That is really a sharp idea IMO... that gold and blue looks very nice together! Thank you for answering and providing a pic too :D
I like to do photo-manipulations of bikes, plus its a good way to visualize how ell colors go together. I have a friend who wants to paint my bike in that chameleon purple/green and a gun-metal frame. I might mock that combo up sometime. :thumb:
Work has stalled on the bike while I'm waiting to purchase the ignition switch and several body bushings and bolts. I'd like to buy the bolts at Ace Hardware, but I have no idea what size/pitch/length I'd need without having references. :dunno_black:
=========================================================================================
Oh, and speaking of photoshop work Ive done regarding bikes: :thumb:
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtl1/v/t1.0-9/12729351_10153946505354521_5703690024515608141_n.jpg?oh=5abc436570271e6582ae472b190f02ee&oe=57619B4B)
NICE Daeouse!!! I got my degree in fine art/graphics almost 6 years ago so photoshop, graphics etc. catch my interest all the time 8)
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on February 18, 2016, 07:53:37 PM
NICE Daeouse!!! I got my degree in fine art/graphics almost 6 years ago so photoshop, graphics etc. catch my interest all the time 8)
:thumb:
I hope to use my modest skill to create a full visualization of my final goal, if I can find high enough resolution images of the stuff I want. . . LOL!
The majority of the bolts on the GS are M6 (6mm in diameter) and have a thread pitch of 1.0 (that is threads per mm in length).
The next most common size is M8 1.0.
There are a few M5 and I think an M4 somewhere.
You'll need various lengths. I started by buying the lengths of bolts that I needed but I ended up making way too many trips to the hardware store. I found a place online that sells stainless bolts and I bought between 10 and 50 of like every metric bolt I thought I'd need. I got the highest quantities in the M6 range and got each size from 10mm long out to 30mm. Also picked up boxes of washers and nuts from M3 to M8. I got a plastic organizer bin thing and laid them out. Now whenever I need a bolt I have my own supply. I spent like $90 in all but I have saved more than that in gas and hardware store mark-ups.
I may have gone overboard with the bolt purchasing, you don't have to spend $90. The bolts are only a few cents when you buy them in bulk though.
Something I'd do differently next time is shop around more. The hardware I got isn't the best quality, though it is better than hardware store stuff. I would buy a couple bolts at first and take a look at their quality and make sure that they aren't made out of cheesy soft metal.
Quote from: lucas on February 19, 2016, 08:48:54 AM
The majority of the bolts on the GS are M6 (6mm in diameter) and have a thread pitch of 1.0 (that is threads per mm in length).
The next most common size is M8 1.0.
There are a few M5 and I think an M4 somewhere.
You'll need various lengths. I started by buying the lengths of bolts that I needed but I ended up making way too many trips to the hardware store. I found a place online that sells stainless bolts and I bought between 10 and 50 of like every metric bolt I thought I'd need. I got the highest quantities in the M6 range and got each size from 10mm long out to 30mm. Also picked up boxes of washers and nuts from M3 to M8. I got a plastic organizer bin thing and laid them out. Now whenever I need a bolt I have my own supply. I spent like $90 in all but I have saved more than that in gas and hardware store mark-ups.
I may have gone overboard with the bolt purchasing, you don't have to spend $90. The bolts are only a few cents when you buy them in bulk though.
Something I'd do differently next time is shop around more. The hardware I got isn't the best quality, though it is better than hardware store stuff. I would buy a couple bolts at first and take a look at their quality and make sure that they aren't made out of cheesy soft metal.
I'll definitely look into that. I prefer Stainless hardware, so I think I'll be ok on quality. :thumb:
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on February 18, 2016, 07:53:37 PM
NICE Daeouse!!! I got my degree in fine art/graphics almost 6 years ago so photoshop, graphics etc. catch my interest all the time 8)
Then you'll like my overall concept: :thumb:
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj143/tk4361/My%20bike/Concept_zpsmk44egtm.png)
(Its a little rough around the edges, but I just wanted a quick(ish) idea of where I'm going. Took about an hour, but I think it was worth it!)
Thoughts?
Quote from: Daeouse on February 19, 2016, 10:12:51 AM
Quote from: lucas on February 19, 2016, 08:48:54 AM
The majority of the bolts on the GS are M6 (6mm in diameter) and have a thread pitch of 1.0 (that is threads per mm in length).
The next most common size is M8 1.0.
There are a few M5 and I think an M4 somewhere.
You'll need various lengths. I started by buying the lengths of bolts that I needed but I ended up making way too many trips to the hardware store. I found a place online that sells stainless bolts and I bought between 10 and 50 of like every metric bolt I thought I'd need. I got the highest quantities in the M6 range and got each size from 10mm long out to 30mm. Also picked up boxes of washers and nuts from M3 to M8. I got a plastic organizer bin thing and laid them out. Now whenever I need a bolt I have my own supply. I spent like $90 in all but I have saved more than that in gas and hardware store mark-ups.
I may have gone overboard with the bolt purchasing, you don't have to spend $90. The bolts are only a few cents when you buy them in bulk though.
Something I'd do differently next time is shop around more. The hardware I got isn't the best quality, though it is better than hardware store stuff. I would buy a couple bolts at first and take a look at their quality and make sure that they aren't made out of cheesy soft metal.
I'll definitely look into that. I prefer Stainless hardware, so I think I'll be ok on quality. :thumb:
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on February 18, 2016, 07:53:37 PM
NICE Daeouse!!! I got my degree in fine art/graphics almost 6 years ago so photoshop, graphics etc. catch my interest all the time 8)
Then you'll like my overall concept: :thumb:
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj143/tk4361/My%20bike/Concept_zpsmk44egtm.png)
(Its a little rough around the edges, but I just wanted a quick(ish) idea of where I'm going. Took about an hour, but I think it was worth it!)
Thoughts?
This is awesome. Subbin' for more concepts.
Quote from: fresh on February 19, 2016, 12:52:28 PM
This is awesome. Subbin' for more concepts.
Ask and ye shall receive!
Because I'm such a Gundam nut, I did a coloration based on Char Aznable's "Sazabi" from Mobile Suit Gundam:
(https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/12717476_1247935415219806_3644067003768055713_n.jpg?oh=ad66d1f7c5960b7892032131add1889b&oe=5760F4A2)
You might be surprised at what retailers will pass off as "stainless"
Always be skeptical. Much of what you see online is made with little or no quality control.
Quote from: lucas on February 19, 2016, 03:49:09 PM
You might be surprised at what retailers will pass off as "stainless"
Always be skeptical. Much of what you see online is made with little or no quality control.
Very true, but I go to Ace Hardware, where I can be sure of its quality. I used the stainless bolts on my Motorized Bike build a few years ago and had no issues at all. But I'll bring a magnet just to be sure. :cool:
Re: the graphics... Less is more.
Not all types of stainless steel are magnetic :icon_mrgreen:
Counterintuitive because iron, the main component in steel, is supposed to be magnetic. But it's true 304 stainless among others are not magnetic. I have some bolts that don't stick to my magnetic tray while I'm working and it gets annoying sometimes.
Quote from: lucas on February 20, 2016, 03:03:26 AM
Not all types of stainless steel are magnetic :icon_mrgreen:
Counterintuitive because iron, the main component in steel, is supposed to be magnetic. But it's true 304 stainless among others are not magnetic. I have some bolts that don't stick to my magnetic tray while I'm working and it gets annoying sometimes.
I worked in a manufacturing plant and frequently encountered all types of stainless, so I agree about the magnetism. I was taking the magnet to ensure the bolts
weren't magnetic, as the stainless alloy I know I want isn't. :wink:
As for losing them, I feel your pain, I dropped the bolts a few times in the dirt when working on my motorized bike and swore up a storm sifting the sand to find it! LOL! :thumb: :cool:
Would this place be good to use as a guide for bolts to get? http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/l/suz/50d3f3d9f8700230d8b4c1fb/1995-gs500e-parts (http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/l/suz/50d3f3d9f8700230d8b4c1fb/1995-gs500e-parts)
Got some work done yesterday on the bike, but forgot to take pics. (oops)
I went down and bought some grade 8 M6 bolts from my local Advance Auto and secured the plastics, the foot guard on the chain-side, and fiddled with everything.
I freed up the rear brake a bit more, but when the repair manual comes in I'll tear it down and clean it out to ensure safe operation.
I pulled the spark plugs again, oiled the upper cylinders a little, gently selected the highest gear, and rolled it forwards to ensure the engine cycled freely. All seemed well there, so I'm really happy there. :woohoo:
Once the manual gets in I'll start tearing the bike apart section by section and making any repairs I can until I have the money to get the ignition switch. :cool:
More good news! This afternoon I just found out I got the job at the local Advanced Auto, so that means more money coming in to do repairs! :woohoo:
Very sorry for the delay in replying... I really really like your concept... it flows well and I love that blue color :bstar:
Stainless ftw :thumb:
Congrats on the job!!! That's super awesome... and I bet you'll be able to gather all kinds of knowledge (good AND bad haha) in a parts store, as well as some good WTF stories! :D
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on February 22, 2016, 02:54:02 PM
Congrats on the job!!! That's super awesome... and I bet you'll be able to gather all kinds of knowledge (good AND bad haha) in a parts store, as well as some good WTF stories! :D
Thanks! I worked in automotive parts before, and I can attest that the stories can get pretty crazy sometime! LOL!
I've spent a lot (and I mean a lot) of time at my dad's (car) garage and also a close friend of my family works for napa... the stories ya hear and the people ya meet... very interesting !!!
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on February 22, 2016, 05:16:27 PM
I've spent a lot (and I mean a lot) of time at my dad's (car) garage and also a close friend of my family works for napa... the stories ya hear and the people ya meet... very interesting !!!
Oh yes. . . red-neck engineering and stories of stupidity abound!
=============================Regular Update=============================
My manual came in today! :woohoo:
Work can begin anew as soon as my friend can drop it off! :thumb:
If you're going to replace your ignition switch you can kludge together a "key" of sorts. Unplug the ignition switch FIRST, cut the wires so that you have the green plug and a few inches of wires, strip them and either use splices, solder, or even twist the wires together.
The red and orange wires go together, the brown and... green go together. Not 100% on those colors, but the wires are very different in thickness the red and orange wires are thick and the other two are thin wires. If you want, consult the wiring diagram to see which colors get connected together by the ignition switch for reference.
Then you have a "key". You just plug this thing onto the wire harness and the bike is on.
I did that at one point during my ignition switch replacement saga.
(http://imgur.com/x53bIpX.jpg)
I have a supply of electrical terminals so I wired it up without doing any splices. Just showing off I guess, I probably should have just twisted the wires together.
Quote from: lucas on February 23, 2016, 12:27:33 AM
(http://imgur.com/x53bIpX.jpg)
thats actually a really good idea lucas :thumb:
love the idea of removing the switch or relocating its original position but unfortunately needing the steering lock has always stopped me.
//
interesting concept daeouse, blue one looks quite good, simple/subtle is much better. :thumb: two things though, the fairing is sitting too high on the bike, it looks good with the belly pan being quite snug to the exhaust but the headlight and screen are miles too high. really don't think the busa'esque headlight is suited to the bike, busas have to be one of the ugliest bikes on the go, nothing but bulbous undefined shape. what i reckon would be sweet is something to the a nc30 headlight or slabby/slingshot gsxr ;) just an idea but it would be a nice classic/modern twist. but yeah the gs is very narrow, you wouldn't want the fairing to swallow the bike.
Quote from: iamhiding on February 23, 2016, 06:53:35 AM
interesting concept daeouse, blue one looks quite good, simple/subtle is much better. :thumb: two things though, the fairing is sitting too high on the bike, it looks good with the belly pan being quite snug to the exhaust but the headlight and screen are miles too high. really don't think the busa'esque headlight is suited to the bike, busas have to be one of the ugliest bikes on the go, nothing but bulbous undefined shape. what i reckon would be sweet is something to the a nc30 headlight or slabby/slingshot gsxr ;) just an idea but it would be a nice classic/modern twist. but yeah the gs is very narrow, you wouldn't want the fairing to swallow the bike.
I couldn't find the right angle for the fairing, so I had to do a little editing to get it close. LOL!
I wanted to keep the "diamond" shaped headlight of the GSXR during the late 00's, but that's not a final thing, as that's way down the road. The AirTech fairing seems fairly good for the bike, but we'll see.
Quote from: lucas on February 23, 2016, 12:27:33 AM
If you're going to replace your ignition switch you can kludge together a "key" of sorts. Unplug the ignition switch FIRST, cut the wires so that you have the green plug and a few inches of wires, strip them and either use splices, solder, or even twist the wires together.
The red and orange wires go together, the brown and... green go together. Not 100% on those colors, but the wires are very different in thickness the red and orange wires are thick and the other two are thin wires. If you want, consult the wiring diagram to see which colors get connected together by the ignition switch for reference.
Then you have a "key". You just plug this thing onto the wire harness and the bike is on.
I did that at one point during my ignition switch replacement saga.
(http://imgur.com/x53bIpX.jpg)
I have a supply of electrical terminals so I wired it up without doing any splices. Just showing off I guess, I probably should have just twisted the wires together.
Unfortunately it's already been spliced, so a new switch will be installed. The only downside is trying to find a replacement for the seat key. I will then have three keys for my bike. >:( LOL!
My best buddy has really hooked me up! He knew I'd need help with my rebuild, so he bought me the excellent Clymer manual for my bike! Huzzah! :woohoo:
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj143/tk4361/My%20bike/manual_zpsovmq3bus.jpg)
Now the work can really begin in earnest! :thumb:
Greetings to all you fine ladies and gentlemen!
Today I worked on the bike some more, and I ran into a problem:
video ---> (http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj143/tk4361/My%20bike/th_20160226_123809_zpsxlhehmie.mp4) (http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj143/tk4361/My%20bike/20160226_123809_zpsxlhehmie.mp4)
Some pics to help:
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj143/tk4361/My%20bike/th_20160226_123801_zpsoxzseoet.jpg) (http://s271.photobucket.com/user/tk4361/media/My%20bike/20160226_123801_zpsoxzseoet.jpg.html)
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj143/tk4361/My%20bike/th_20160226_123729_zpszguvlqop.jpg) (http://s271.photobucket.com/user/tk4361/media/My%20bike/20160226_123729_zpszguvlqop.jpg.html)
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj143/tk4361/My%20bike/th_20160226_123715_zpst1oyn1fn.jpg) (http://s271.photobucket.com/user/tk4361/media/My%20bike/20160226_123715_zpst1oyn1fn.jpg.html)
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj143/tk4361/My%20bike/th_20160226_123715_zpsrrbvyov7.jpg) (http://s271.photobucket.com/user/tk4361/media/My%20bike/20160226_123715_zpsrrbvyov7.jpg.html)
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj143/tk4361/My%20bike/th_20160226_123606_zpszbnwwfs3.jpg) (http://s271.photobucket.com/user/tk4361/media/My%20bike/20160226_123606_zpszbnwwfs3.jpg.html)
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj143/tk4361/My%20bike/th_20160226_1235501_zpslnoh0p58.jpg) (http://s271.photobucket.com/user/tk4361/media/My%20bike/20160226_1235501_zpslnoh0p58.jpg.html)
Now, I have the manual now, but to me, the wiring diagram looks like a mess of lines and symbols. I could really use the help!
I am not sure what the diagram in the manual looks like and I'd also be willing to bet that it's black and white? Anyway, just in case you haven't already seen this, maybe this one will help you out...
(http://www.bbburma.net/Scans/Haynes_WiringDiagram_US_90-96.jpg)
I know it's helped me in the past !!
Yeah you are going to have to do some studying and detective work.
I am going to bet that the black wire with a white stripe connected to a green wire is the "side stand switch bypass" mod. That is a fairly common mod, I did it on my bike. (But I did it a little more permanently than twisting the wires together!)
There are three safety interlocks that can prevent the bike from starting or running: the sidestand, the clutch, and the neutral switch. Some people disable some or all of these. I think the most common reason is that these switches fail and it is easier to bypass then then replace them... Anyhow that's probably what happened with the black and green wires.
I'll go back and watch it again and see if I can tell you anything else.
The black/white wire to the black/yellow looks like it maybe just sloppy wiring using a random color wire to a turn signal, based on where the wires are going. It's a little hard to see without being able to look at it in person
The only place a black and yellow wire is used is between the Ignition Control Unit and one of the coils and this does not look like that.
It is normal to have a couple loose, unconnected wires. You can see them on the wiring diagram on the bottom right, and there are a couple in the middle-left, inside the headlight bucket. These are ground wires and are black with a white stripe.
Ok, after two + hours of cross-referencing, I have a break-down of the wiring diagram I can understand. If I look at it normally, my brain fries attempting to lay it out on the bike in my mind. This allows me to use it like a checklist, which I prefer.
(https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/12814672_1261854833827864_5063493322321669815_n.jpg?oh=36f6ab2bb8e73cbe6490ac52e064bad6&oe=574D6EA0)
Four pages and a checklist page just to be sure. Borrowed a tester from a friend, so I should be able to work out what has been screwed up/messed with. I'll tackle it this weekend, so wish me luck!!!
Much luck has been wished!!!
I love lists and being organized... well done sir, well done 8)
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on March 10, 2016, 12:43:11 PM
Much luck has been wished!!!
I love lists and being organized... well done sir, well done 8)
:cheers:
Got bored this evening, so I did another manip using a GSX600R fairing, which might be easier to do overall.
Thoughts on look and feasibility?(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10474037_1262021343811213_4923249105958585557_n.jpg?oh=811b44cead0f727df644f38c1108d201&oe=5790F1D2)
So much luck. Take it slow and methodical, keep track of your progress. After I checked and fixed my wiring I felt huge satisfaction.
I really enjoy the look of the tail section and seat. The part where it says gs500 reminds me of a build thread I saw last year maybe around this time where someone took the stock tail fairings and shortened them along with the frame and put them back on. It looked pretty nice IMO.
I can't offer much advice on feasibility because I've done some wild custom stuff in the past with fiberglass and aluminum and discovered you can do just about anything if you put your mind to it and have lots of patience..!
It looks like you picked the gixxer fairing from around '04 ish...? I do like that one. I have the nose fairing from that year on my GS right now... it was one of the first mods I did to my bike when I got it.
@ShowBizWolf, Its a 2002 fairing, yes. LOL I'll keep looking into methods to do it. . .
On another front:
ALL WIRING TRACED AND IDENTIFIED IN THE SEAT AREA!!! :woohoo:
Testing comes a little later, and I'm checking the front lights later.
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xlp1/v/t1.0-9/12832319_1262557600424254_3763717553748121601_n.jpg?oh=11a04cff6fc8a2c7e044b4ea57fadb50&oe=5790E60A)
Took forever to sort that mess!
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/12227596_1262557577090923_6181692998647552145_n.jpg?oh=1d0bf30f34b805ec96b572c1685fd477&oe=5758B74F)
There are extra black&white wires everywhere!!!
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t34.0-12/12007228_1270117283001619_1736843709_n.jpg?oh=796233c88c2c664681e5b8f67a804c3b&oe=56F163B4)
HA! Got the ignition switch out after a lot of swearing and work! I cut slots into the bolts with a hacksaw. (through the metal, too! LOL)
New switch inbound!
With the switch set incoming, I need to get a full set of tank bushings. . . anyone have any recommendations?
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Suzuki/Motorcycle/1991/GS500ET/FUEL+TANK+%28MODEL+K-L%29/parts.html
So far nearly all the OEM parts I've bought have been from Partzilla. The prices are good. You can limit the amount you spend in shipping by waiting until you can get most everything you need instead of making many small purchases.
Quote from: lucas on March 29, 2016, 07:48:29 AM
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Suzuki/Motorcycle/1991/GS500ET/FUEL+TANK+%28MODEL+K-L%29/parts.html
So far nearly all the OEM parts I've bought have been from Partzilla. The prices are good. You can limit the amount you spend in shipping by waiting until you can get most everything you need instead of making many small purchases.
:cheers:
Thanks, man! I've never used them before, so hearing good things about them is encouraging. I'll look into them and see what they've got! :thumb: :cool:
lucas is SO right about shipping... it's best to wait until you have a whole list of parts ya need. I've done that before!!
I can't say I've ever gotten anything from partzilla but I have heard good things about them!! My normal spot for OEM is motosport.com... they usually have 20% off OEM stuff and any chance I get to save money, I'm all over it lol
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on March 29, 2016, 10:38:12 AM
lucas is SO right about shipping... it's best to wait until you have a whole list of parts ya need. I've done that before!!
I can't say I've ever gotten anything from partzilla but I have heard good things about them!! My normal spot for OEM is motosport.com... they usually have 20% off OEM stuff and any chance I get to save money, I'm all over it lol
:cheers:
Definitely for saving money! The total for the parts needed is about $20. . .
HA! The new ignition switch, tank lock, and seat lock combo came in!!!
Its been installed!!! :woohoo:
(https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t34.0-12/13020550_1293795507300463_717781601_n.jpg?oh=672495ece34b1545a54d0dc7585a28cf&oe=57114C9B)
Now to finish wiring. . . :2guns:
Then brakes. . . :technical:
It's so shiny!
Quote from: lucas on April 13, 2016, 09:45:51 PM
It's so shiny!
That's the color I want to paint the frame and such parts. :)
Hey what color was the electrical connector on that ignition switch? White or green? Were you able to sort out the wiring on it?
Quote from: lucas on April 14, 2016, 12:43:16 PM
Hey what color was the electrical connector on that ignition switch? White or green? Were you able to sort out the wiring on it?
(https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t34.0-12/12992829_1294490003897680_1401884225_n.jpg?oh=0b2c1551f51aec6b2a4207f495e1a57a&oe=57128BD1)
The old one was hard-wired in, so I had to cut it out. In this case I'll be using my wiring diagram break-down to be sure its wired in properly. . .
Aw crap they sent you the white one.
Did you keep your old ignition switch? You need some parts out of it...
I made a post about how to fix the switch so that it'll work. I also contacted the manufacturer but they said IDGAF.
modified to say: I say it won't work as is because the electrical system in the GS500 requires two circuits to be completed in the ignition switch, verify with a multimeter if turning the key completes two separate circuits. There might be a way around this, like making one of the circuits always on... but I didn't experiment with that.
Nevermind, we already talked about this.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=70011.msg843233#msg843233 (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=70011.msg843233#msg843233)
>:( :technical: :2guns: >:( :technical: :2guns:
*incoherent and effusive swearing*
I already threw the old one away, I think! AAAARRRRRGGGGHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I've got to pray its laying around underneath something in my lair. . . if not, I'm boned. . . :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:
*edit* after looking at the pics on that thread, mine is slightly different looking, so tomorrow I will pull it apart and check the inside connectors. Praying fervently for good news. . .
*second edit* I remember the one I replaced was after-market as well, and that the PO couldn't get it to start, so this problem might have been what happened already. . . so I think the old one wasn't going to be an option. . .
Looks like I may have to get creative. . . dammit!
OK, I've stripped down the switch, and it looks nothing like the "wrong" one mentioned in the other thread:
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t34.0-12/13020515_1295042200509127_1343019593_n.jpg?oh=c7b9ec628d05fcbe216f4987685f6d6d&oe=57132551)
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t35.0-12/13035654_1295043173842363_1540983212_o.jpg?oh=7bc91db18647b2cf1604c3cfc97b4527&oe=57132041)
Input needed!!!
Looks promising. Do you have a multimeter? Because you can check the resistances between the four wires and find out if there are two separate circuits made.
You'll pretty much have to do this in order to determine which wires go where.
I see that you posted an update in the other thread.
Nice choice with the security bolts :thumb:
Quote from: lucas on April 15, 2016, 05:10:38 PM
Looks promising. Do you have a multimeter? Because you can check the resistances between the four wires and find out if there are two separate circuits made.
You'll pretty much have to do this in order to determine which wires go where.
Nice choice with the security bolts :thumb:
I see that you posted an update in the other thread.
Cheers!
Here's my fix:
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t34.0-12/13023509_1295358047144209_3499327_n.jpg?oh=74d68f79e137c67869630b0269174ca0&oe=57137D55)
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t34.0-12/12992816_1295358033810877_773160918_n.jpg?oh=fffe22a65027785ee5a38e8101283856&oe=5713CB20)
The soldering isn't pretty, but it will do the job! :thumb:
BADDASS :cheers:
Walk me through it, looks like you soldered the dead-end wire to the red one, and then moved the contact over to a new spot. Which wires get connected in the "ON" position?
Quote from: lucas on April 15, 2016, 05:20:56 PM
BADDASS :cheers:
Walk me through it, looks like you soldered the dead-end wire to the red one, and then moved the contact over to a new spot. Which wires get connected in the "ON" position?
Check the other thread for the proper break-down! :)
So what's new?
The wiring is done, barring the rear turn-signals (we're replacing them once we get the bike to run). The wiring was a mess everywhere. Just about everything was bypassed; clutch, side-stand, etc. . . it was ridiculous! Fortunately, everything is in the right spot now and is soldered, covered in heat-shrink, and tested.
After I resurface the tank and flush it out (my buddy got water and paint-stripper in it when he tried to remove the paint), I'll be painting it and prepping it for gas. Almost time for firing! :woohoo:
Ok, here's a more substantial update:
I didn't like the look of the black on the headlight, so I decided to begin taking steps towards my earlier concept:
(https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13062483_1303405629672784_945624973778535687_n.jpg?oh=dd38635cfb834e8242ce9657860bc1a5&oe=579DEFA9)
Unfortunately, like so many other pieces of hardware, the adjustment screw/spring/bolt was missing. So I decided to cobble one together:
(https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/13082695_1303405656339448_8810469440272426148_n.jpg?oh=b2c9d28823909ddbaff56ca26f08fb5e&oe=57AF3C99)
(https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13061958_1303405673006113_4037625407873553365_n.jpg?oh=301b3e87bd2f39c1e2738182e50d54d5&oe=57C0C7C3)
Today I decided to tackle the terribly painted tank. Its seen two coats of paint over the beautiful blue/green paint and sharp-looking decals. A damn shame. :sad:
So, after a coat of paint stripper, I began wet-sanding and scraping the remaining crud off. It took several hours of work, but now its sitting in primer until I can do final surface work.
(https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13095923_1303405699672777_4668681779178496537_n.jpg?oh=f757d057ca9c271dedc0f34fe0ddd538&oe=57BE251C)
(https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/13095967_1303405716339442_6139191655459415679_n.jpg?oh=194c57fe3a04f8bb98a46a781399ad91&oe=57AB3916)
(https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xlt1/v/t1.0-9/13100805_1303426196337394_5289695471021089694_n.jpg?oh=4496f5b40559613c0f656cc0ed97fbb1&oe=57C0AE2D)
I've also removed the front fender for sanding/repainting work. I've had to take a scraper to get the very thick paint off so far. More sanding tomorrow. Pics up later. . .
I'm so excited for this project. :woohoo:
Me too!!! :D
After vigorous scraping, sanding, and swearing, The front fender was ready for primer!
(https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t34.0-12/13090265_1304054439607903_652954745_n.jpg?oh=d015e361aeee8b69d5985bb219f8296c&oe=5723BC9E)
I plan to pick up some paint soon, but patience is a virtue on a shoe-string budget. . . :icon_lol:
And be cause I was bored, I found THIS! (Idiot PO painted over it)
(https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t34.0-12/13115409_1304060546273959_2069221931_n.jpg?oh=718761ce114ad5d8e61d94cf16c5d9ae&oe=5723E3AD)
Soon I'll be debating painting the frame. . . but since disassembling my bike is out of the question, I may have to get creative. . .
How come disassembling the bike is out of the question?
That'll give you can opportunity to check all the bearings and bushings :)
Plus completely disassembling the bike goes really fast especially if someone can give you a hand. On top of that it is super fun!!
How do you pronounce your user name? When I sound it out it sounds like Day-Ooze
+1 to all that!!!
If I had a project bike like yours I would totally want to take every bit of it apart... it'd be so much fun.
You have already shown that you can be organized (with your wiring diagram list thingy) and that's half the battle cuz as we all know, what ya take apart can be a b*tch to put back together if you forget and/or don't have things labeled !!
Quote from: lucas on April 27, 2016, 04:17:20 PM
How come disassembling the bike is out of the question?
That'll give you can opportunity to check all the bearings and bushings :)
Plus completely disassembling the bike goes really fast especially if someone can give you a hand. On top of that it is super fun!!
How do you pronounce your user name? When I sound it out it sounds like Day-Ooze
1) I've been advised by two separate friends that disassembling the bike before we know that it runs is a stupid idea. :dunno_black:
1a) If I take it apart and find out I need new bushings (etc), I couldn't afford to replace them, so its more like me hiding my head in the sand at the moment. :icon_neutral:
1b) Aforementioned friends would be the ones helping me do that and they advise getting it running first. :nono:
2) Its pronounced like the latin for "god" "Day-us". My friends jokingly gave me that nickname in high school because I won so many nerdy arguments and debates of nerdy things. LOL! :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on April 27, 2016, 04:30:06 PM
+1 to all that!!!
If I had a project bike like yours I would totally want to take every bit of it apart... it'd be so much fun.
You have already shown that you can be organized (with your wiring diagram list thingy) and that's half the battle cuz as we all know, what ya take apart can be a b*tch to put back together if you forget and/or don't have things labeled !!
I don't doubt that I could do it, however, as above (1b) my friends refuse to help me do it on the grounds of getting it running first. :dunno_black:
Gotcha gotcha that makes sense :thumb:
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on April 27, 2016, 07:10:27 PM
Gotcha gotcha that makes sense :thumb:
I wanted to, trust me. :wink:
If I can get a job soon, I could possibly afford another bike, so at that point I could take it completely apart.
I plan to use this as my commuter bike/pretty "modern" show bike, and get a Royal Enfield for my "wild hair" bike on the weekend. :icon_mrgreen:
So this bike isn't going anywhere! Upgrades WILL happen! :cheers:
Well, well. . . what do we have here. . .
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/13094193_1306652989348048_5729794956440085649_n.jpg?oh=c2a0b1705ac8cafe2d4ea46e37636552&oe=57A5E2C1)
Going in a completely different direction. . .
Alrright Mouse. Where'd you get that thing? That is a really nice decal and now i want one too. :bowdown:
Quote from: TheGreenWeenie on April 30, 2016, 04:26:40 PM
Alrright Mouse. Where'd you get that thing? That is a really nice decal and now i want one too. :bowdown:
My friend makes one, $10 each. . . :wink:
And he can do it in most colors if desired and paid extra if he doesn't already have it. . .
After nearly an hour of buffing, I managed to get the chrome paint to really shine!
(https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13133243_1309936992352981_1903522782827479103_n.jpg?oh=0dd4a222d3e97d80d71906afa64b6316&oe=57B1E6B9)
OOooooooo. So shiny! :thumb:
Quote from: TheGreenWeenie on May 05, 2016, 08:30:22 AM
OOooooooo. So shiny! :thumb:
After clear-coating the fender, its rather hazy. . .
(https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t35.0-12/13169861_1310027515677262_1011194318_o.jpg?oh=2b7730f20c2945da867dc5798a6d5f46&oe=572E1CE3)
Hopefully it clears up and the shine comes back through nicely. . . It took a lot of work, and I don't want to lose it. . .
Quote from: Daeouse on May 05, 2016, 06:08:29 PM
Quote from: TheGreenWeenie on May 05, 2016, 08:30:22 AM
OOooooooo. So shiny! :thumb:
After clear-coating the fender, its rather hazy. . .
(https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t35.0-12/13169861_1310027515677262_1011194318_o.jpg?oh=2b7730f20c2945da867dc5798a6d5f46&oe=572E1CE3)
Hopefully it clears up and the shine comes back through nicely. . . It took a lot of work, and I don't want to lose it. . .
lol, I've mentally decided to not do my own paint on the body parts for my bike. they stuff i want to use is WAY too toxic to be doing in my backyard. I did start spraying the frame today tho
unfortunately, rattle cans take almost a full month to cure completely. =(
Quote from: TheGreenWeenie on May 05, 2016, 08:17:16 PM
unfortunately, rattle cans take almost a full month to cure completely. =(
Isn't that the annoying truth! Especially gloss! >:( :2guns:
My friend is recommending triple=glaze paint for the tank, supposedly its a bit better than the acrylic I used on the front fender. . . :dunno_black:
Tank painting completed! :cool:
(https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t35.0-12/13161246_1312148122131868_577543588_o.jpg?oh=5e9f73caca85a9775f021264bfe78386&oe=57321494)
In other news, I'm probably going to have to replace the wiring harness, as there's a short in it somewhere that keeps blowing the starter relay fuse. :cry:
Its been spliced, bodged, and wrecked by the PO, and even my electrical engineer buddy couldn't seem to find the issue. :technical: We did what we could, but its likely that fixing it is unlikely. So now I'm off to find a good harness for a fair price. . .
decal looks awesome. ill def hit you guys up when I need one made.
Quote from: TheGreenWeenie on May 08, 2016, 03:15:17 PM
decal looks awesome. ill def hit you guys up when I need one made.
:thumb:
Man that decal makes me want to go look up gs bobbers. Love that decal.
(https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13177218_1315837248429622_5600313538279002469_n.jpg?oh=a9c62cce69e705b7be15fd7972420ecf&oe=57E53456)
Wiring harness still needs to be installed, but its slowly coming together! :cool:
loving the copper accents. keep it up bro
Wonderful!!! :star: That tank looks superrrrr cleannnn :icon_mrgreen:
Installing the new wiring harness tomorrow! :icon_mrgreen:
Wiring harness is in!
My buddy checked all the connections the other day to ensure everything was good:
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13240090_1319212191425461_2492301537911003717_n.jpg?oh=e55d4e5908caaa7140765363ede5c776&oe=57D162DC)
Pics of the removal:
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13226690_1319212294758784_5672685682628648853_n.jpg?oh=dccb5a32cb8ef8a25ce52d7cab2070c1&oe=57E2258A)
Some of the connectors literally fell apart as I was unplugging everything. . . the wiring harness was definitely boned. . .
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13232998_1319212298092117_3223125561754870841_n.jpg?oh=039a262c4a52e0b57d58c456a93e029a&oe=57E2C813)
The old harness chopped out of the bike, plus bits salvaged from it for later use:
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13226801_1319212378092109_3816423656036208472_n.jpg?oh=231ffffa71f6386f5554304ee068e15d&oe=5799ACFE)
I found an engine ground that wasn't connected to anything. . . :icon_eek:
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13221620_1319212371425443_357751510852064841_n.jpg?oh=2f3c73d72613bf8f35b4a3b7e0133070&oe=57D62D27)
The bike as it sits now:
(https://scontent.ftpa1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13240623_1319212374758776_376685408039301673_n.jpg?oh=edcb9bb2e1f12a915d443334814d8c62&oe=57D3C8BF)
How it sits right now:
(https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13327481_1327408443939169_3177396139901301781_n.jpg?oh=806759bca16dcc40e4834a4eaa01a066&oe=57CC5FE4)
Modified the muffler, so it mounts properly, checked all the wiring after installing the new harness, but now I at least have A SIGN OF LIFE:
(https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t34.0-12/13296226_1327352633944750_323159333_n.jpg?oh=d870d16b04c8d8c7a5fd882c514f079e&oe=57588567)
Now if the dang thing would even engage the starter, sound the horn, turn on the headlight, or do ANYTHING ELSE!!! :technical:
hey, great news about lighting up the dash :)
Anxious to see you on he road enjoying the bike, I like how it is progressing. About the failure to light up the headlight, maybe you need to take another look at that ignition cylinder. Perhaps jump it at the connector to isolate it from the system.
Re: the starter relay. Have you checked the starter wires where they go under that useless cover over the starter motor. There is a little relief spot but the rest of the cover bears on a ridge. If the cover is tightened down on the wires and NOT in the relief , it can pinch the wires together and cut or short them. I considered chucking the cover ( doesn't really do anything as the motor is fine exposed and the hole it sites in is drained. Will also allow the motor to cool a little better), but I made a Al cover with a cutout for the motor.
Following with interest to see if you come up with any other areas to check on my project of a seriously despaired motorcycle.
Quote from: Daeouse on February 19, 2016, 03:51:47 PM
Quote from: lucas on February 19, 2016, 03:49:09 PM
You might be surprised at what retailers will pass off as "stainless"
Always be skeptical. Much of what you see online is made with little or no quality control.
Very true, but I go to Ace Hardware, where I can be sure of its quality. I used the stainless bolts on my Motorized Bike build a few years ago and had no issues at all. But I'll bring a magnet just to be sure. :cool:
Ive used in times past 1qt mason jars. run a screw through lid and into a horizontal board. ( like a shelf almost.)
then used a sharpie to write bolts size and threadpitch on the glass, put those bolts into jars then screw those onto the mounted lids. (kinda doubles shelf space)
Aaron
Quote from: gregjet on June 06, 2016, 01:50:26 PM
Re: the starter relay. Have you checked the starter wires where they go under that useless cover over the starter motor. There is a little relief spot but the rest of the cover bears on a ridge. If the cover is tightened down on the wires and NOT in the relief , it can pinch the wires together and cut or short them. I considered chucking the cover ( doesn't really do anything as the motor is fine exposed and the hole it sites in is drained. Will also allow the motor to cool a little better), but I made a Al cover with a cutout for the motor.
Following with interest to see if you come up with any other areas to check on my project of a seriously despaired motorcycle.
Checked that, but not the case. Probably the relay (and maybe the starter motor too)
Something worth trying to do is pull the ignition controller and work your way back through the various idiot switches to make sure they are functioning, start at the ICU and then go to the sidestand and check connection when switch is both closed and open, then next switch and so forth till your back to the battery - I found on mine that my sidestand switch had been DIYed closed by PO while fault finding my starter problem (hadn't plugged the starter in, opps :D)
Interesting headlights and horn aren't a go, that kind of suggests ground somewhere, electrics are such a pain and these things are rather simple !
Yeah, its got issues. :dunno_black:
Got three people interested in buying it, so they can deal with it.
I'll keep my eye open for another GS500 in the near future. . .
Speaking of which i had to jerry-rig a clutch sw. to make it home like that. lol think thats where i got my first grey hair. :/ lol.
Aaron
Think I may have found the problem. The wiring harness Black/white lead is not hooked up to the battery (got to find out where it is), and the "ground" that's supposed to go from battery to frame is running battery to engine. I will now go and attempt to rectify this issue. . .
omg that is awesome Daeouse I'm rooting for u :o
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on June 24, 2016, 12:46:27 PM
omg that is awesome Daeouse I'm rooting for u :o
well, poop. :technical:
The wire (with connection) in question is this: (sorry for the haziness of the pic, my hand shakes a bit, so focus is a problem)
(https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t34.0-12/13535716_1347081695305177_161947016_n.jpg?oh=4e2276055cc9d969d4887f0045e53b41&oe=5770454E)
I'm trying to fix this:
(https://scontent.ftpa1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t34.0-12/13530828_1347069188639761_2022707646_n.jpg?oh=d7276e97bc3c2e1fa2a650df7be41971&oe=57704DF2)
The neutral indicator wire wasn't connected, but it is now.
I found the fuse blown, so I'm not sure if it happened from my fiddling with the wiring in the front of the bike last week, or if it happened when I test-grounded the harness as it would theoretically supposed to be.
Opinions?
That ground is the connection from the negative terminal of the battery to the back of the engine.
Quote from: lucas on June 24, 2016, 03:42:50 PM
That ground is the connection from the negative terminal of the battery to the back of the engine.
Ok, good to know its going to where its supposed to be. Now to work out everything else. . .
then what happened? :dunno_black:
IIRC he ended up parting it out. It was just too much :icon_sad:
Wish he would have stuck around the forum anyway... but it says he hasn't been active on here since November. :bummer:
I'm not dead and gone!!! :icon_mrgreen:
I've just been obscenely busy with work and getting my life straightened out. I did part out the "Basket Case", however I will be keeping my eye out for another GS500 for future work. . . :cheers:
(I like you nuts too much to leave!)
Quote from: Daeouse on March 12, 2017, 05:25:20 PM
I'm not dead and gone!!! :icon_mrgreen:
I've just been obscenely busy with work and getting my life straightened out. I did part out the "Basket Case", however I will be keeping my eye out for another GS500 for future work. . . :cheers:
(I like you nuts too much to leave!)
he liiiivvveesss
:woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:
:cheers:
:cheers: