So, after 9 months, it's happened. Me and sookie went down. :sad: pulse generator cover was torn off and the centre of the coil snapped off.
I gutted...don't have the funds or the expertise to put her right again :dunno_black:
That ain't no issue. With parts any capable GSTwinner in a 100 mile radius would do it for a case of their favorite poison.
If you're in driving distance of charlotte NC I'll volunteer myself.
Else find your favorite gstwinner.
BTW post a pic - if your crank threads and locator is knackered - while still not unfixable, we may require - well 2 cases of the aforementioned poison. Or a Benjamin or some combo there of.
What other damage ? That may count for more than this particular one.
Cool.
Buddha.
Way to be super supportive Buddha, I love it!!! :D
I am sorry to hear about what happened 63 but hopefully the forum can indeed help you out!! Are YOU okay ?
Hey Buddha,
I live in the u.k. so I'm a little out of the way. It's late so I can't get any good pictures of sookie atm and the pictures I have taken are too big to upload. I'll try and resize them.
As far as I can tell the brake levers are just a straight swap. Theres no fuel or oil leaking so I'm taking that as a positive. The ignition pick up is bent so will need replacing as i think some of the components of it are damaged too. So the result is the engine is failing to spark on the button, but making the sounds. And because the timing rotor cover got ripped off the 3 bolts holding it on have sheered :icon_rolleyes:
I will get pictures of sookies damage in the morning. Appreciate the offer to help with the fix the guy, that's very cool. O0
I am ok showbizwolf. Pride is hurt and I'm gutted my bike is off the road after I spent so much time and money over the weekend making her run nice and look pretty. :sad: But I have just secured a job to pay for it while I finish my nursing degree. Didn't need sleep or a social life anyway!
This is an opportunity for you to learn how simple it can be to get a downed bike back on the road. Buy parts used, buy from wreckers and get your advice and tutorials from gstwins and you'll be in ship shape in no time.
If you are trying to upload pics directly to this forum I don't think that is going to work no matter how small you make the images. You have yo host the photos elsewhere like imgur or photobucket. Imgur is easy to use, I found.
TinyPic is also good.
http://tinypic.com/
There's a few members on here from your side of the pond, so there's hope! :cheers:
I'm rebuilding mine on less than a shoe-string budget, so I can understand funding troubles, but you shall prevail!!! :thumb:
Must important thing is that your ok, and like others have said fixing the bike is possible :)
Good morning everybody,
Thank you for your support, you guys have been awesome O0
I snapped a couple of shots of sookie, to be fair the damage looks minimal, I may be in denial but I'm hoping it'll be a cheaper fix than first thought :woohoo:
Timing rotor:
Top-
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2zhmfbc.jpg)
Side-
(http://i66.tinypic.com/xd5m6p.jpg)
Bottom-
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2d7c26d.jpg)
Bolt that holds the timing rotor in place:
Side-
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2w6s3zb.jpg)
Bottom-
(http://i67.tinypic.com/1zfilbp.jpg)
I don't think you can see it too well from the picture but the bottom of this bolt looks like it's whole, so there's nothing left inside.
Obviously though, if the bolt hasn't sheared then it raises questions about the the state of the receiving threads (of the crankshaft?)
Pulse generator housing:
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2up4b6a.jpg)
As you may be able to see, the locating pin for the timing rotor is visible :cheers: Sadly the 3 bolts the hold the pulse generator cover have sheared, 2 are sitting flush with the case (top and right) and one has sheared further down >:(
the mounting plate for the pickups:
(http://i64.tinypic.com/24ymntf.jpg)
It's a little bent, maybe can be hammered out. If not I have seen one on eBay for £50.
Now for the cosmetic stuff, starting at the front of the bike.
Front brake reservoir:
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2u5coir.jpg)
Fuel tank:
(http://i64.tinypic.com/dg1loj.jpg)
Brake pedal:
(http://i66.tinypic.com/m8ia1z.jpg)
I have a replacement brake pedal ordered. Cost me £8 :cheers:
Seat fairing:
(http://i64.tinypic.com/w17hvs.jpg)
Exhaust:
(http://i64.tinypic.com/98y6j5.jpg)
I checked this morning, there's now fresh oil, no fuel leaking, so that's a relief, as you can see from the front brake picture the brake fluid is very low, so it would appear I have lost some in the crash.
Where in the UK are you? I've been collecting parts for my own GS project(s)* for the last few months so prob' allready have multiples of the bits you need sitting in the garage. I'm a few miles north of London and work in the city.
*A pair of basket cases called Jessie and Gus. Both mid 90's GS500Es that I'm hoping to get back on the road this summer.
Quote from: TQM on March 02, 2016, 06:30:13 AM
Where in the UK are you? I've been collecting parts for my own GS project(s)* for the last few months so prob' allready have multiples of the bits you need sitting in the garage. I'm a few miles north of London and work in the city.
*A pair of basket cases called Jessie and Gus. Both mid 90's GS500Es that I'm hoping to get back on the road this summer.
I'm not a million miles from London, I live in Norwich. I don't need many parts:
-brake lever and possibly the front brake reservoir
-mounting plate for the ignition coil pickups
-retaining bolt for the timing rotor
-timing rotor cover plate and 3 bolts that keep it in place.
Quote from: the_63 on March 02, 2016, 06:44:39 AM
Quote from: TQM on March 02, 2016, 06:30:13 AM
Where in the UK are you? I've been collecting parts for my own GS project(s)* for the last few months so prob' allready have multiples of the bits you need sitting in the garage. I'm a few miles north of London and work in the city.
*A pair of basket cases called Jessie and Gus. Both mid 90's GS500Es that I'm hoping to get back on the road this summer.
I'm not a million miles from London, I live in Norwich. I don't need many parts:
-brake lever and possibly the front brake reservoir
-mounting plate for the ignition coil pickups
-retaining bolt for the timing rotor
-timing rotor cover plate and 3 bolts that keep it in place.
I'll have a look in the garage and see what I've got. Pretty sure I've got a spare timing coil plate that's got no coils on. The rotor retaining bolt is easy, you can get one of those at Wickes or B&Q. And, TBH, the brake reservoir prob' just needs a bit of a sand down and some black touch up paint from Halfords.
The rotor cover plate will be hardest to find though - as you now know it's pretty much made of cheese and cracks if you so much as look at it funny, let alone drop it. From the looks of it you should be able to get the broken studs out of the clutch cover without too much problem but if you do find that's cracked too I know I've got at least two black ones and one silver one of those tucked away.
EDIT: BTW, that's the rustiest timing rotor I've ever seen. Has a bit of water managed to get in behind the rotor cover plate?
See! Not as bad as you dreaded AND help to be had! Gotta love this hobby! :cheers:
The crankshaft is hardened steel, that soft bolt did nothing to the threads on the crankshaft.
You might be able to back those sheared bolts out with a small punch and a hammer. Angle the punch so that it will tend to rotate the remaining bit anti-clockwise and tap it. When I've snapped bolts by over-tightening them they come right out, hopefully that is also the case with sheared bolts.
Worst case is that you replace that side cover and gasket.
Quote from: lucas on March 02, 2016, 09:24:33 AM
The crankshaft is hardened steel, that soft bolt did nothing to the threads on the crankshaft.
You might be able to back those sheared bolts out with a small punch and a hammer. Angle the punch so that it will tend to rotate the remaining bit anti-clockwise and tap it. When I've snapped bolts by over-tightening them they come right out, hopefully that is also the case with sheared bolts.
Worst case is that you replace that side cover and gasket.
I've also had some luck drilling a very small hole though the middle of the sheared off bolt. If the clockwise action of the drill bit doesn't spin the remaining threaded stub out of the back of the hole then you can knock an oval nail into the middle of the stub and use pliers to rotate it out. This only really works though if the bolt has gone into an open-ended hole rather than a blind one.
Lefty drill bits will get the thing out as it bites into it.
Yea we're getting somewhere now.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: The Buddha on March 02, 2016, 11:02:57 AM
Lefty drill bits will get the thing out as it bites into it.
Yea we're getting somewhere now.
Cool.
Buddha.
:cheers:
Hooray for progress!
Quote from: TQM on March 02, 2016, 08:17:56 AM
Quote from: the_63 on March 02, 2016, 06:44:39 AM
Quote from: TQM on March 02, 2016, 06:30:13 AM
Where in the UK are you? I've been collecting parts for my own GS project(s)* for the last few months so prob' allready have multiples of the bits you need sitting in the garage. I'm a few miles north of London and work in the city.
*A pair of basket cases called Jessie and Gus. Both mid 90's GS500Es that I'm hoping to get back on the road this summer.
I'm not a million miles from London, I live in Norwich. I don't need many parts:
-brake lever and possibly the front brake reservoir
-mounting plate for the ignition coil pickups
-retaining bolt for the timing rotor
-timing rotor cover plate and 3 bolts that keep it in place.
I'll have a look in the garage and see what I've got. Pretty sure I've got a spare timing coil plate that's got no coils on. The rotor retaining bolt is easy, you can get one of those at Wickes or B&Q. And, TBH, the brake reservoir prob' just needs a bit of a sand down and some black touch up paint from Halfords.
The rotor cover plate will be hardest to find though - as you now know it's pretty much made of cheese and cracks if you so much as look at it funny, let alone drop it. From the looks of it you should be able to get the broken studs out of the clutch cover without too much problem but if you do find that's cracked too I know I've got at least two black ones and one silver one of those tucked away.
EDIT: BTW, that's the rustiest timing rotor I've ever seen. Has a bit of water managed to get in behind the rotor cover plate?
awesome thank you. Truth is it was probably dropped at some point, in fact I'm inclined to think it been dropped quite a lot. I mean, I dropped it already and I haven't even had it a year :oops:
Log book says I'm the 14th owner too and I'm quite certain the paint is custom. It doesn't match the year and every other purple GS I've seen have decals on them.
Thank you all for your help and advice. It has been really good to have the support.
A k2 cover should fit on a ex engine right? :dunno_black:
Google says there about 5 bike breakers in or around Norwich.
Take a trip out on Saturday morning and If you cant find EVERYTHING you need for around £50 I will be amazed!!
And if you are planning on removing that cover, plan on buying a new gasket.
Right side cover is dry, and there isn't a gasket.
Cool.
Buddha.
That rotor cover is dry but the engine cover is wet. So if you're replacing the engine cover you will also need a gasket, otherwise it'll leak.
Yep....that's why there is an oil-seal on the crank :thumb:
14th owner?!?
Wow. One of those things you just don't see in the States.
Or a logbook telling you how many owners.
(because that would actually be USEFUL.)
+1K on all the encouragement. The bike's fate isn't dire at all. In fact, you can probably make your major fixes and still have enough to buy those brightly-colored adjustable eBay levers to match your bike ;)
So I bought a cover for £10 this afternoon but it really looks like trash, considering getting this instead:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2003-SUZUKI-GS-500-K2-RIGHT-HAND-IGNITION-COVER-POINTS-COVER-/182040544203?hash=item2a627643cb:g:c3gAAOSwKtVW1dyI
Went to one guy who said he would need to order in the mounting plate for the timing rotor pickups and it would cost over £130! So I tried to hammer my old one straight and that has not gone well :technical:
Quote from: cWj on March 03, 2016, 06:15:55 AM
14th owner?!?
Yeah man, 14 owners in 17 years...beginning to think maybe I should get that saddle reupholstered :icon_eek:
that cover looks nice, someone on this board produces CNC machines covers that look real slick
Quote from: lucas on March 03, 2016, 06:34:47 PM
that cover looks nice, someone on this board produces CNC machines covers that look real slick
Might cost an arm and 2 legs before it gets shipped across the pond tho.
A jet pack (weighs nothing compared to the cover) cost $15 ...
Cool.
Buddha.
In case its not been laid out to you yet -
You're gonna have to buy the electrical parts new. Keep the old ones for a spare in case later you can straighten that plate. Those things die 20-40k miles. Its not a big deal.
The outer cover is not essential for testing it - just dont stick a finger in there while running.
The advancer is fine. Just clean it with brillopad and paint it. Test it and make sure you're running OK.
Then hammer the brake lever back the right way.
Then before you take it past your driveway buy the round cover made by chuck (billet and beautiful and lot less $$$ than the #130 even with the ridiculous shipping) Or get someone to send you their old one
Nothing, to it - classic case of - that will buff right out.
Cool.
Buddha.
Not sure what year you are but this might be worth getting. If the crash was enough to bend the timing plate then it might have borked the pickups too.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-GS500E-1993-94-Ignition-Pickups-and-Backplate-Timing-Sensors-Back-Plate-/121842397669?hash=item1c5e5f71e5:g:Ow0AAOSwo3pWcmyn
I'll have a rummage in the garage tomorrow for you and see what I've got.
I have these on my Bandit and they've really saved my bacon (and my right leg) before.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ENGINE-GUARD-HEED-CRASH-BARS-Suzuki-GS-500-89-06-/172089477751?hash=item2811550a77:g:4JgAAOxyNo9Sxcfx
not sure about these though.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-Crash-Bars-GS-500E-GM51B-1989-00-WVBK-2001-07-and-GS-500-F-BK-/191493148864?hash=item2c95e190c0:g:K20AAOSwHPlWfmEw
This is the cover I bought yesterday:
(http://i64.tinypic.com/9vb6oj.jpg)
Cost my £10.
Quote from: TQM on March 04, 2016, 04:37:35 AM
Not sure what year you are but this might be worth getting. If the crash was enough to bend the timing plate then it might have borked the pickups too.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-GS500E-1993-94-Ignition-Pickups-and-Backplate-Timing-Sensors-Back-Plate-/121842397669?hash=item1c5e5f71e5:g:Ow0AAOSwo3pWcmyn
I'll have a rummage in the garage tomorrow for you and see what I've got.
I have a 1999 GS500, I do have my eye on this. There was another on there that was complete with timing rotor and mountaing bolt but someone beat me to it by 5 minutes :2guns:
And thanks in advance for checking for a spare. The bent backing plate is now less of a 'U' shape from the crash and more of a saddle shape from my "fixing" it.
I'm just on my way out to see if I can find anything from other scrappys.
Ok, so I decided while Sookie is resting that I would take this opportunity to swap out the broken tach drive. So fuel tank is off, managed to wrangle out the cam cover and now I have screeched to a halt. I don't now how to get the broken tach drive out. Anyone have any suggestions?
(http://i67.tinypic.com/20fp2tl.jpg)
from the front of the engine
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2vkhy01.jpg)
this one is from the side. To show how flush it snapped. Can't really grip anything to pry out from the front.
(http://i63.tinypic.com/6gly15.jpg)
inside the engine, the bit that needs to come out is underneath those threads
(http://i66.tinypic.com/8x3k15.jpg)
The bit where the hole is, is where the tach drive fits in so I can't just push it out.
I have a very basic set of tools, and there's absolutely no space for a hammer to help poke it out. :technical:
Just been down the garage (would have gone this morning but it's a 10 minute walk across the village and it's only just stopped snowing) and unfortunately what I thought was a straight pickup plate is actually bent. It's not bent by much, mind, but enough to make it useless. Looks like that set on ebay's prob' the best bet after all. Sorry.
:cheers:
Quote from: TQM on March 05, 2016, 10:25:44 AM
Just been down the garage (would have gone this morning but it's a 10 minute walk across the village and it's only just stopped snowing) and unfortunately what I thought was a straight pickup plate is actually bent. It's not bent by much, mind, but enough to make it useless. Looks like that set on ebay's prob' the best bet after all. Sorry.
No worries, I appreciate the effort. Thanks
I ordered replacement bolts for the timing rotor and the case cover because they weren't much more expensive than going to a hardware store, I just tried the timing rotor bolt in the crankshaft to check the integrity of the threads and they were damaged in the crash :cry:
Bike will be off the road for the foreseeable future.
To be clear, you tried a new m6 bolt in the end of the crankshaft and you felt it bind up?
If the threads were damaged you can clean them up again using a tap. The threads are m6 with a 1.0 pitch, meaning one thread per mm of length. Here is a link (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003K15ER0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1457537626&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=m6+tap&dpPl=1&dpID=41BhGCwDnBL&ref=plSrch) to an example on Amazon.
There is a special handle you can buy or you can just use an adjustable wrench to turn it.
I was pretty confident the threads would be fine. Good news is that in general though damaged threads can be fixed easily with either a tap or a die. Taps are used for internal threads, dies for external threads.
Quote from: lucas on March 09, 2016, 08:42:27 AM
To be clear, you tried a new m6 bolt in the end of the crankshaft and you felt it bind up?
If the threads were damaged you can clean them up again using a tap. The threads are m6 with a 1.0 pitch, meaning one thread per mm of length. Here is a link (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003K15ER0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1457537626&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=m6+tap&dpPl=1&dpID=41BhGCwDnBL&ref=plSrch) to an example on Amazon.
There is a special handle you can buy or you can just use an adjustable wrench to turn it.
I was pretty confident the threads would be fine. Good news is that in general though damaged threads can be fixed easily with either a tap or a die. Taps are used for internal threads, dies for external threads.
It should be. I ordered it from the diagram. Tapping new threads will have to wait, bank balance is almost at 0. I wasn't sure the threads could be tapped because the crankshaft is hardened steel. But I'll give it a bash. cheers man
Hey guys,
Thought I'd give everybody a quick update:
The little pin that locates in the back of the timing rotor had some shards of timing rotor fused to it which have now been cleaned up and the rusty timing rotor also cleaned up nicely, my tap set came this morning so I tidied up the threads inside the crankshaft and fitted the timing rotor to see if it would go back together...fits like glove.
Bought the signal generator pickups off eBay for £30 in the end, expecting them in the morning (currently 19:30), also expecting the clutch cover gasket tomorrow (£10) and clutch cover on Monday (£16).
So Wednesday I will drain the oil, pull the old cover, new gasket, new cover, new signal generator, timing rotor install and cover. Also does anyone now if I would need heat resistant paint to paint the signal generator cover?
I am still having trouble with the tachometer drive extraction. I noticed that the gear section on the exhaust camshaft is broken anyway so I've had a change of plans. I now plan to get the old drive gear out and put in the plug from an '04/'05 GS500 and eventually install an electric tachometer.
How easy is it in reality to remove the camshafts? I have the tank off, camcover off, do I need to remove airbox and carbs or can I get away with leaving them situated and slacking the camchain? I only need to get the exhaust camshaft out of the way for an hour, I don't really want to undo and pull bits out.
Does anyone have any suggestions/advice?
I'm so proud of you!
So what is the story behind removing the tach component?
I removed my mechanical tach as well. I didn't remove the cams though. I can't remember exactly, there may have been a pin that I drove out and the tach thing came straight out. There is a little cover on the outside of the engine that comes off with a single boot. Try pulling on the tang end of the thing with pliers.
I'm thinking about it more and I'm becoming more sure that there wasn't a pin. Just a single bolt, wiggle off that cap, and pull the thing out with pliers.
I do remember it coming out it very easy once I figured out what was holding it in.
This is the plug I used to close up the hole. link (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009PQ617Q/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
I originally bought a plug that had an external hex head but there wasn't enough room for the bolt head. link (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003C016V2/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1) the idea behind this first one was to leave the tach thing in place and the hollow middle of this plug would not interfere...
Parts diagram:
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Suzuki/Motorcycle/1992/GS500ET/CYLINDER+HEAD/parts.html
"Cap" is number 17
"Thing" is number 16
Quote from: lucas on March 17, 2016, 04:19:36 PM
So what is the story behind removing the tach component?
I removed my mechanical tach as well. I didn't remove the cams though. I can't remember exactly, there may have been a pin that I drove out and the tach thing came straight out. There is a little cover on the outside of the engine that comes off with a single boot. Try pulling on the tang end of the thing with pliers.
I'm thinking about it more and I'm becoming more sure that there wasn't a pin. Just a single bolt, wiggle off that cap, and pull the thing out with pliers.
I do remember it coming out it very easy once I figured out what was holding it in.
This is the plug I used to close up the hole. link (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009PQ617Q/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
I originally bought a plug that had an external hex head but there wasn't enough room for the bolt head. link (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003C016V2/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1) the idea behind this first one was to leave the tach thing in place and the hollow middle of this plug would not interfere...
Parts diagram:
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Suzuki/Motorcycle/1992/GS500ET/CYLINDER+HEAD/parts.html
"Cap" is number 17
"Thing" is number 16
Yeah I've looked through those. Basic history is when I bought the bike the tach wasn't working, so I bought a new cable which didn't resolve the issue. When I looked inside the tach drive housing outside the engine, the bit where the cable attaches to the engine, it was full of RTV, so I started picking it out, then I unscrewed the little fixing bolt on the side and took off the external housing and 2 washers that had been fused together.
This is what I took off:
(http://i63.tinypic.com/345n910.jpg)
I went online and bought a new tach drive assembly, but couldn't get a grip on the little bit sticking out:
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2vkhy01.jpg) (The front of the engine is pointing towards the top of the picture. The "12" nut on the gear in the engine is about an inch-inch 1/2 above what is left.
The new tach drive housing still in the packet on the right Vs the old tach drive housing. Half the old tach drive housing is missing, it's in the engine.
(http://i68.tinypic.com/ilzr5d.jpg)
And the new tach drive gear. As far as I can gather the old tach gear has snapped about half way down the shaft, around where that silver ring in the middle is.
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2s64nb8.jpg)
Theres only mm of the old tach gear poking out and whenever I try to grip it with pliers to pull out they just come straight off. So I thought I'd try and push it out, only to be faced with a camshaft laying over the top when I pulled the camcover off :mad:
I noticed yesterday though that the part of the camshaft that contacts the tach gear is broken, so if I managed to get the old gear out, it still wouldn't work. That's where the plan for the plug came in and eventually I will look to install an electric version. But I have to figure out how to get the old gear out. The front of the engine is coated in oil too thanks to the months of riding without it being sealed.
Hope that explanation was clear O0
Ya'know, it might have been easier (and cheaper) just to replace the entire head, camshafts an' all, in the long term. ;)
Quote from: TQM on March 18, 2016, 04:48:28 AM
Ya'know, it might have been easier (and cheaper) just to replace the entire head, camshafts an' all, in the long term. ;)
It is a total ballache. Once it's out, progress will be very fast. I am also limited by my toolset, I don't have a drill or any way to apply heat...safely.
Too bad. It seems to me like you're going to have to pull the cam shaft to get that gear out.
You say it snapped in half?? Crazy! Can I get a look down the hole at what remains of the gear?
If the gear teeth are breaking I don't think you should leave it in place as it may contribute extra floating bits of metal into your engine oil.
Quote from: lucas on March 18, 2016, 10:47:38 AM
Too bad. It seems to me like you're going to have to pull the cam shaft to get that gear out.
You say it snapped in half?? Crazy! Can I get a look down the hole at what remains of the gear?
If the gear teeth are breaking I don't think you should leave it in place as it may contribute extra floating bits of metal into your engine oil.
(http://i67.tinypic.com/20fp2tl.jpg)
from the front of the engine. This is where the tach cable plugs into.
(http://i66.tinypic.com/8x3k15.jpg)
The bar along the left edge of the picture is the exhaust camshaft. You can see the threads that drive the tach gear are damaged. Loose chunks on metal floating around have crossed my mind since noticing this to be honest. The current engine oil is new though, definitely less than 150 miles, Id be surprised if it was close to 100 miles even!
I made some progress today. I cleaned the gasket remnants off of the replacement clutch cover I bought, I cleaned the gasket remnants off of the the engine, I installed
-the replacement signal generator,
-the timing rotor,
-replacement clutch cover and new gasket,
-airbox is back in
Tomorrow I am aiming to have the valve cover back on, breather cover reinstalled, gas tank on and then hopefully...
vvvroom vvvroom!
Yeah buddy!!
Now you know that motorcycle rehab is easier than you thought and also just as difficult as you thought.
Got it all back together this morning and a new issue has presented itself. Fuel leaking from the surge line. Just going to have a search, see what I can find on potential cause/resolution.
The fuel leaking isn't too bad, it seems to be a build up of fuel pressure then it pops out. But it wouldn't start, it would turn over up to 3 times then sort of run out of juice. So I went to take my phone to get a video of it and ask for some advice when on the third, sad, pathetic crank, BOOM it started!
It didn't sound quite right but after a minute or two was running about normal. I gave the throttle a twist and it sounded happy. I noticed the choke was completely off so put it in the on position and it had zero effect.
I put the choke off again and twisted the throttle once more and it cut out. hit the button, sprang back to life, twisted throttle, engine died.
Hit the button again and it's just turning over but not starting again.
Could this be timing issue?
Do you think you may have left the choke cable disconnected?
What is the fuel surge line?
Maybe your float bowls might not be filling with fuel. Try running it on prime. You can check the fluid level in the bowls with a length of clear tubing.
The pathetic cranking might be a weak battery. Can you check the voltage and charge it up?
the fuel surge line runs from the back of the rear petcock up to the carbs. It has a little clear "filter" thing in the middle. There's a couple of things I think it might be and want to check now I've had a thought. Maybe it's the gasket between the breather and valve covers preventing a vacuum seal so the fuel isn't circulating. Or a pinched/stretched line under the tank. I agree the battery might be run down. I don't understand why twisting the throttle kills the engine though...
That surge line is the fuel line that feeds the carbs. If there is a leak or obstruction in that line it will affect the flow of fuel into the carbs. You said something about it "popping out" if you mean that this line got disconnected then that would be a definite fuel delivery problem.
I had one of the two fuel lines that come out of the gas tank end up getting pinched and that caused me some headaches. I had to leave it in Reserve to run the engine. (That lead to me running out of gas twice...)
The gaskets on the valve covers don't affect performance or the fuel flow, they only keep the oil contained within the engine.
It was as though the plastic filter bit was getting too full then leaking out of the sides where the rubber tubes connect to it. I will pull the tank off when I get home and have a check around under there. I've probably done something wrong :dunno_black:
How serious is this leak? Maybe you just need to put on / tighten the hose clamps?
I'm back with my bike. Was up at 8, took tank off, took airbox out and while i was there I tightened the clamps on the fuel surge line. Leak has now been resolved. Also noticed that the choke cable had caught so it was left open. Put back together and gave it a crank and the bike was very reluctant. I noticed that the water levels of the battery were very low so that's been topped up and the battery charged. Took 5 presses of the button but eventually Sookie fired up! :thumb: I let it run for a minute to warm up, then hit the button a few times since then and she starts everytime on the button now.
So I popped on the lid and took her out around the block. The front brake lever feel disgusting, theres so much play (up and down) so I've popped the lever out, to go OEM or aftermarket? I also need to straighten out the front wheel and everything will be epic again. SO CLOSE! O0
WOOT!!!! :woohoo: :cheers:
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on April 01, 2016, 01:06:06 PM
WOOT!!!! :woohoo: :cheers:
cheers man. I'm so psyched! :woohoo: