Hi all,
I bought a 2006 GS500f last year. It started and ran fine. It had a Delkevic Slip-on. I asked the owner if it was jetted and he said he didn't think so. I removed the muffler and installed a stock one. I only took it for about a 5 mile run before parking it in the garage for the winter.
During the winter, I started it up and warmed it up each week. It started with NO choke every time. One time, it stalled. It would only spit and sputter and run high idle with the choke on and throttle on. After changing the plugs, I checked the gas tank and it was empty. (Don't laugh too hard!).
Put fresh gas in and it started up after a few times and few minutes. Now it warms up, seems to miss a little, then drop down to idle and slowly die. I figure there was a piece of dirt sucked up in the starting or idle circuit.
Took it for a ride. About 1/2 mile, the engine started sputtering, dying, then shut off. Would not start. Ran down the hill and caught in gear enough to drive it home, but it shut off in the driveway. Pushed it up in the garage. Wouldn't start. Next morning, started right up and revved up fine again, then stalled after warmup.
I decided to remove the carbs figuring dirt in the jets. Upon removing the airbox, there was old fuel/oil?? at the bottom of it. I read that a float sticking would cause this. The drain hose was plugged up. It was a fair amount, at least a 3-4 ounces. After that, I removed the carbs and noticed the bolts were removed previously.
Opened up the bowl and found no dirt, spotless. Removed the jets and found a 128 in the main jet area. ??? I am assuming the original owner jetted this carb to match the aftermarket muffler.
My questions are:
1. Should I go back to the stock size jets with a stock air filter and stock muffler? Is there a better size to make a smoother/better commuter bike. Keyster sells a stock jet kit with jets, float, float seat, and bowl gasket (no o-rings), should I get this? I saw an economy kit with no jets and 4 o-rings, what are the O-Rings for?
2. With no choke at start, is it running rich? Even with a 128 main? Which jet would cause this or what else might cause this?
3. Fuel in the Airbox, any other ideas why?
After looking a little more, I think that a Dynojet kit with a 128 main was installed. From the looks of the website pictures, they have different needles and springs with the kit. Should I just keep this kit installed?
If so, how should I have it adjusted for the stock box and exhaust? Where should I put the c-clip on the needle and should I use any spacers?
Tim
I'm a fundamentalist, so I figure over all the years that the Japanese engineers worked did their work, they took out the kinks...so I only run the OEM specs and parts they told me to.
My problem is that I'd have to buy all new parts and I think that the spring and needle were changed on the top based on the pictures of the aftermarket jet kit. The bike did run fine last year. I pulled the carbs off when I thought there was some dirt in the idle circuit.
If it was just a matter of changing the main jet I'd have no problem doing it but changing everything else might be a little bit expensive.
The problem with the DJ kit is that they have taken all the original parts and renamed them in greek. Machined the needle to some random profile and made it in compatible with anything in the real world. AKA proprietary crap.
You have $$%%^$ jet. You need 1 size bigger, oh yea you need *(^*(*.
You call DJ.
That call goes like this -
You: I need *(^*(* jets.
DJ: Sorry we don't sell *(^*(* only. You need to buy the whole kit. It costs $$$$$$$.
OK you buy the Kit, to your surprise, there is no *(^*(* jet in it.
Call them again. That goes like this.
You: No *(^*(* in the kit.
DJ: Sorry The next size up from $$%%^$ is &^^$&^. Not *(^*(*.
You: But *(^*(* is right cos its only slightly lean 3/4 throttle and up.
DJ: Sorry, you should have thought of that before buying a DJ kit.
Instead Mikuni numbers their jets and sell you any number you want. We prefer that, cos we don't like speaking &&*%&*
Cool.
Buddha.
IDK for sure but I think engine problems that occur after the engine warms up can indicate valve clearance problems.
Someone else have expertise on this?
I put the carb back together and it started fine. Did find a missing bolt in the intake boot to engine. No fuel leaks. I also decided to check the valves and two are tighter than .04mm, one intake, one exhaust valve. Buckets still spins free, but need to get Valve tool and check the shim size before moving forward. Also going to balance carbs before reinstalling gas tank.
Tim