Hello my friends, After taking a break I'm back working on my gs500. I have a starting issue
Watch at 1min into the video when the guy start the bike, mine is doign the EXACT same sound and doesn't start
So checked If like this dude its was my screw that was loose ( and It's not at all ) So i'm wondering where this problem could be comming from, any idea ?
Also if anyone has something that explain in deep what happen when you turn the bike on it would help me understand whats going on, like what happen with the stator and stuff
Thank you in advance for you replies :cheers:
edit : i am able to push start it
Rip adidasguy.
There is a one-way clutch behind the rotor that may need to be replaced. With the cover off hit the starter button. If you see the starter gear spin then that means your starter is spinning.
If you see the gear behind the rotor spin but the rotor itself does not spin AND the bolt does NOT spin then the one-way clutch needs to be replaced.
If the rotor does not spin but the bolt DOES spin then you need to torque that bolt down.
Remove the bolt and see if you can convince the rotor to come off. If it won't come off without a fight you might have success using a bolt of some particular size to push it off the shaft. I can't remember the size off hand, let's just hope it doesn't come to that cause on some bikes getting the rotor to come loose is a huge pain.
Inspect the one way clutch of the large gear. Check that the little cylinders and the springs are in good shape and things move freely.
Quote from: lucas on April 27, 2016, 04:26:55 PM
There is a one-way clutch behind the rotor that may need to be replaced. With the cover off hit the starter button. If you see the starter gear spin then that means your starter is spinning.
I've checked it, It spin correctly
Quote from: lucas on April 27, 2016, 04:26:55 PM
If the rotor does not spin but the bolt DOES spin then you need to torque that bolt down.
Here I'm not sure if I understand correctly, you mean the bolt that hold the rotor ?
Quote from: lucas on April 27, 2016, 04:26:55 PM
Remove the bolt and see if you can convince the rotor to come off. If it won't come off without a fight you might have success using a bolt of some particular size to push it off the shaft. I can't remember the size off hand, let's just hope it doesn't come to that cause on some bikes getting the rotor to come loose is a huge pain.
I've tryed to get that bolt off and it's ridiculously hard we would not get it done and i was scared I might break something If we went harder
Yes, by bolt I meant the bolt that holds the rotor. I meant that you should press the starter button and watch what spins and what doesn't.
If your starter clutch is bad then you're going to have to get that bolt off. The bolt shouldn't be impossible to remove, you might use one of those adjustable oil-filter strap-wrenches to hold the rotor steady while you remove the bolt.
Google the "rope in the chamber trick" for locking the engine and loosening or. tightening such bolts. Essentially remove the plug and make sure piston is at bottom. Feed rope in to fill up space - you need quite a bit - and voilà. Make sure nut is left or right handed. I forget.
The bolt is to hold the flywheel in place on the shaft but its the interference caused by the male and female tapers that forms the `grip`. If the flywheel has spun on the shaft you can tighten the bolt as hard as you can but it will never be as effective as new because some of that interference has now been lost due to the inevitable scoring between the two faces that will have occurred.
Some will tell you the solution is to use Loctite or rough the surfaces up further but that's all horseshit. The correct way is to regrind or `lap` the flywheel to the shaft using grinding paste.
Ok its not a GS5 but the principle is exactly the same.
http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Lapping_tapered_crankshaft_and_flywheel_surfaces_for_good_no_slip_bond (http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Lapping_tapered_crankshaft_and_flywheel_surfaces_for_good_no_slip_bond)
And if you are looking for a quick and easy way to lock the flywheel that wont chance a bent valve or leave debris in the cylinder!!......pull the cover off the other side of the engine and jam a copper washer or coin between the teeth of the primary drive gear and the clutch basket.
What Sledge said. Just remember to drain the oil before removing the right side cover.
Good tip on grinding the flywheel but the OP seems convinced that the flywheel is not loose
In this post I recorded my steps in the correction of this issue,
http://www.gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=67052
I ground the taper in and it still do not work , loctite 660 fixed the problem permanently (but I had to go back and open it all up again) - it is designed for «. Typical applications include restoring correct fits on worn shafts, spun bearings, and damaged keyways.» Hehe, the spelling error is directly from Locktites site!
Note there are a couple of points to avoid in the posts as well.
Re - the cotton rope trick, to each their own.
BMF
Quote from: lucas on April 28, 2016, 10:56:57 AM
What Sledge said. Just remember to drain the oil before removing the right side cover.
Good tip on grinding the flywheel but the OP seems convinced that the flywheel is not loose
Wait what ? flywheel isn't suposed to be loose ? the thing behind the rotor ? If it's that i'm able to freely moove it around
edit: that thingie
(http://i.imgur.com/nZ6Jjoe.png)
Quote from: bmf on April 28, 2016, 11:32:14 AM
I ground the taper in and it still do not work
So you didn't do it correctly then? :dunno_black:
Quote from: lucas on April 28, 2016, 10:56:57 AM
Just remember to drain the oil before removing the right side cover.
Given the LH cover is already off......... I doubt there will be much left in there to actually drain!!
Can someone confirm what the flywheel is ?
I'll let you finish up Sledge, im not going to get sucked into calling each other out in public about our repective quality of work.
Bmf
Flywheel is the big metal bowl thing with magnets lining the inside.
Quote from: sledge on April 28, 2016, 12:16:51 PM
Quote from: lucas on April 28, 2016, 10:56:57 AM
Just remember to drain the oil before removing the right side cover.
Given the LH cover is already off......... I doubt there will be much left in there to actually drain!!
Is there supposed to be oil behind the LH cover? Mine is dry...
Thanks everyone, I'll work on it tommorow and keepyou updated with pictures, I'm sure i'll need you're help
Update: bolt is off, taking everythign apart, not sur what to look for