(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r90/jaxes88/IMG_4226.jpg) (http://s142.photobucket.com/user/jaxes88/media/IMG_4226.jpg.html)
After getting it home I threw a new battery and some fresh gas in it (upon inspection the carbs were somehow squeaky clean) and it fired right up and purred like a kitten.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r90/jaxes88/IMG_4505.jpg) (http://s142.photobucket.com/user/jaxes88/media/IMG_4505.jpg.html)
Unfortunately sitting in the humid air for several years didn't do it any favors. It has some rust on the fork tubes and it appears to have left some scarring on them.
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r90/jaxes88/IMG_4528.jpg) (http://s142.photobucket.com/user/jaxes88/media/IMG_4528.jpg.html)
After riding it around they have started dripping fork oil. Looking at the scars in the chrome I'm figuring that replacing my fork seals won't do me any good as the scarred fork tubes will just take them out again?
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r90/jaxes88/IMG_4526.jpg) (http://s142.photobucket.com/user/jaxes88/media/IMG_4526.jpg.html)
(http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r90/jaxes88/IMG_4527.jpg) (http://s142.photobucket.com/user/jaxes88/media/IMG_4527.jpg.html)
Those little knicks in the chrome are probably the worst of it.
Sorry cant help. Still looking for a DIY to replace the progressive springs :/
Yeah those fork stanchions are done. Just buy some new forks, you could probably pick up a whole new front end pretty cheap and just pick and choose the parts you want. Don't bother trying to fix up these old ones, it's just not cost effective.
Also if your stanchions are that bad, I'd take a look at your wheel bearings and monoshock as well.
I had progressive springs and it was the easiest thing, it was pretty much plug n play.
Loosen the top triple clamp bolts, remove the fork cap, pull out the old spring, adjust height of fork oil (I believe I set mine to 100mm from the top, with the fork empty and fully compressed) insert new spring and close it back up.
If you have the stock handlebars you might need to shift those out of the way... been so long since I had stock bars can't remember.
If you're on a budget you could try a DIY repair. I found this on reddit.
https://www.reddit.com/r/motorcycles/comments/1sglgd/pitted_fork_stanchions_heres_a_cheap_fix_i_tried/
Good luck with your forks!! I've had my fair share of "fun" with mine I can tell ya that :icon_rolleyes:
Congrats on the bike and welcome to the forum!!!
I used 2000 grit sandpaper to smooth over a couple rusty pits on my forks when I replaced the seals.
The problem with trying anything is that if it doesn't work you have to replace the seals all over again. If you value your time it is probably worth the money to buy a used set of forks. All years are interchangeable but the F model forms are a slightly different design that are harder to take apart with slightly stiffer springs.
I suggest looking for a nice set of '89 - '00 forks and then give them fresh seals, oil and Sonic spring.
Those pits are not going to buff out, the tubes need to be replaced.
For those looking for fork spring replacement instructions, a generic version is here:
http://sonicsprings.com/catalog/damper_rod_forks_tech_article.php
If you have questions PM me, or ask on the forum.
Did you see this post on craigslist?
https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/mpo/5533312667.html
You could fix this IF YOU WANT TO!
Sure get replacements if you can (afford it). But I've repaired plenty of pitted stanchions, some worse pitted than yours.
It's just the 3-4 inches above the top of sliders you need to be concerned with. Use a scalpel blade to scratch out the pit rust, use tools like fine jewellers files to scrape the rust out. Finish with wire wool wrapped around a tiny screwdriver or similar. This is all to get the rust out and provide a 'tooth' for the glueing - see below.
Clean thoroughly with solvents then hot water. Dry it all quickly with a heat gun or hair dryer. You need to have good superglue on hand - use thin or medium (best stuff is 'Hot-stuff' or 'Zap' from Hobby stores). Put drops into the pits, let 'em harden, go over them again until the glue is proud of the surface, don't try to build up too much in one go. Later, use wet and dry, starting a 800 grade, go to maybe 1500 grade.
Wrap the wet 'n dry tightly around a narrow, dead flat sanding stick (make it up eh?) and sand the glue down flush. you can mask off around the pits as you sand. It works. it's smooth so it won't damage the seals. You'll hardly notice the repaired pits after 1500 and a little polish.
Yes I know it seems like a lot of farting around, but it's much quicker and easier than it sounds. If you have more time than money it's the 'go'.
Not everyone's option sure, but it's worth throwing it into the mix.
Quote from: Bluesmudge on May 10, 2016, 04:04:25 PM
Did you see this post on craigslist?
https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/mpo/5533312667.html
I would totally jump on that if it weren't so far away.
Quote from: Joolstacho on May 10, 2016, 08:52:03 PM
You could fix this IF YOU WANT TO!
Sure get replacements if you can (afford it). But I've repaired plenty of pitted stanchions, some worse pitted than yours.
It's just the 3-4 inches above the top of sliders you need to be concerned with. Use a scalpel blade to scratch out the pit rust, use tools like fine jewellers files to scrape the rust out. Finish with wire wool wrapped around a tiny screwdriver or similar. This is all to get the rust out and provide a 'tooth' for the glueing - see below.
Clean thoroughly with solvents then hot water. Dry it all quickly with a heat gun or hair dryer. You need to have good superglue on hand - use thin or medium (best stuff is 'Hot-stuff' or 'Zap' from Hobby stores). Put drops into the pits, let 'em harden, go over them again until the glue is proud of the surface, don't try to build up too much in one go. Later, use wet and dry, starting a 800 grade, go to maybe 1500 grade.
Wrap the wet 'n dry tightly around a narrow, dead flat sanding stick (make it up eh?) and sand the glue down flush. you can mask off around the pits as you sand. It works. it's smooth so it won't damage the seals. You'll hardly notice the repaired pits after 1500 and a little polish.
Yes I know it seems like a lot of farting around, but it's much quicker and easier than it sounds. If you have more time than money it's the 'go'.
Not everyone's option sure, but it's worth throwing it into the mix.
That's my plan for now, my coworker was telling me he has fixed several chipped mountain bike forks this way, he used clear nail polish though. I like your idea for super glue better though. :icon_mrgreen: I ordered the seals the other day and I'm looking up all the tricks to get the 04'+ forks apart, looks like this is gonna be a fun job.