Just bought my first bike and it's a doozy, a GS500e that's sat for a year, I spent $400, now to rebuild the carbs and get the left throttle butterfly unseized. This should be fun.
https://imgur.com/a/5vyd8
Quote from: Red-Rocket on May 17, 2016, 08:27:00 PM
Just bought my first bike and it's a doozy, a GS500e that's sat for a year, I spent $400, now to rebuild the carbs and get the left throttle butterfly unseized. This should be fun.
https://imgur.com/a/5vyd8
1 yr of sitting ... wont seize the butterfly nor would it need - whatever the hell a "rebuild" is.
Clean and poke out all the holes and it works fine.
Cool.
Buddha.
Hi Red-Rocket and welcome to the forum!
Congrats on the first-bike purchase and good luck getting things all sorted out :cheers:
I wanna see the picture you linked to but it won't load here at work for some reason... pooo on that :technical:
Quote
1 yr of sitting ... wont seize the butterfly nor would it need - whatever the hell a "rebuild" is.
Clean and poke out all the holes and it works fine.
Cool.
Buddha.
Haha I couldn't think of a quick way to phrase that.
Well, I got the left throttle butterfly unseized but the throttle won't return shut, is it a case of it still being gummed up? Or another issue? When I split the carbs the right carb(the one with the throttle return spring, slams shut just fine, when I add the left carb, it doesn't move
Edit
Never mind I got it worked loose and it works fine now, thanks to ATF and acetone. Now to clean the carbs out
http://i.imgur.com/lxJUcEC.jpg
Well, I got the carbs cleaned out, luckily the previous owner drained the gas before he parked it, there wasn't much crud in the bowls.
Charged the battery up, put the carbs back on the bike and she fired up, now I just need to order a new K&N lunchbox filter, I've got a front master cylinder rebuild on the way, new pads, and I need to get the front caliper pistons unseized.
https://imgur.com/a/Gnidm
Got a rebuild kit in for the front brake master cylinder, the old piston had seized in the bore and had to be pounded out with a dowel. Now I can't get it to move fluid at all but it does create a small vacuum at the banjo bolt.
Also installed pod filters, I added a second washer to the needle jets and thoroughly cleaned the jets, and has a hanging idle at 4,000rpm and climbs. I'm pulling the carbs again to go over them a third time.
Well, I still can't get the master to bleed the air correctly, I get a few small bubbles out of the reservoir but It won't move fluid at all, the level in the reservoir won't go down, I've cleaned both the holes, and triple checked my piston seals to make sure they're oriented correctly and still nothing. Anyone have suggestions? Or I may say screw it and just get a known working MC and call it a day.
When I rebuilt my MC I had to fiddle with the brake lever to get the brake fluid to flow down past the piston. What seemed to work best for me was to squeeze the lever and suddenly release it, letting it snap back. I would get big bubbles when I did that and small amounts of fluid would go into the line each time.
It took a few minutes but it eventually started to pump fluid normally.
Well people I need some help, I've got the bike pretty well squared away, new front brake master cylinder new pads, inline fuel filter.
But no matter what once it warms up it rides like shaZam! without the choke and revs out to 5k with no throttle. I sprayed carb cleaner onto the boots and any other suspect areas, and it'll still idle at 1500, I crack the throttle and it shoots up to 5k. I am stumped, I've cleaned the carbs I'm not missing any orings and no leak around the inlet boots.
Any ideas?
As a disclaimer I'm still fairly new to most of this, but I have spent an inordinate amount of time playing with the fuel system on my '93. You say you're not missing any o rings, but just to be sure, that includes even the tiny ones on top of the carbs? I've read people having a nightmarish time until they realize that's all that was missing.
Perhaps it's something involving the needles/jets since idle seems consistent. You may have already tried it, but maybe do a check on air screw adjustment (air screws, pilot screws, whatever they're called) as well. Like I say, I'm no expert, I'm just throwing out ideas. Good luck to you!
Already adjusted everything, pulled the carbs again and made sure my float height is set right. Finally I let it warm up for 20 minutes after everything got hot, it started to idle and rev up fine.
It's not a jetting issue as I'm running 40 pilot 2 washers on the needle and 150 main for pods and V&H exhaust. It's either a vacuum leak that is sealing up after the engine gets hot (that I can't find with carb cleaner) or the bike really doesn't like running when it's cold.
Would anyone happen to know what series carbs came stock on the GS500? I think I found my issue, the left carb throttle plate is slightly bent on the bottom half. More than likely causing my idle issues.
Quote from: Red-Rocket on June 21, 2016, 07:35:40 PM
Would anyone happen to know what series carbs came stock on the GS500?
Haynes says Mikuni BST33SS for <2001 models
Got a new throttle plate and screws incoming, tried to adjust the clutch per the service manual and the clutch feels like it won't fully engage. On the center stand in 1st gear clutch out obviously it won't move. With the clutch pulled in the wheel still has a lot of resistance, question should it be able to freewheel in 1st with clutch in just like neutral or will there be resistance there?
https://imgur.com/a/tpe2Z
Finally had a spare moment and uploaded some pictures of the bike, I just did the fenderectomy and got the throttle plate replaced, best way I found to do it is freeze the plate and the bare carb then work quickly to get it inside the shaft haha.
Installed the new throttle plate and the runaway idle is still there but more manageable and only at 4K instead of 6k, I don't have any vacuum leaks outside of the bike, would the valves cause this issue if they aren't within spec?