So one day the bike wouldn't start when I was leaving the gym. I had to jump start the bike rode it home but it died 2 min into the ride. It started loosing power then just died. Took it home ( what a schlep) and hand the battery taken to local auto store and had the battery charged. Took it home bike wouldn't start, but it started when the bike was hooked up to a car :< help please.
also ha side problem on the deceleration the bike back fires, popping sounds out of exhaust.
The store charged battery but did they load test it?... makes a difference!
Are the other ends of the battery leads connected cleanly and firmly?
Charging a dead battery is like trying to use a colander as a punch bowl. Literally. You can dump a bunch of juice into it, but it's not going to hold any of it. Badum! KSH!
Motorcycle batteries are on the cheaper side, check out your local Interstate and see what they have. Some batteries need to be assembled then charged, so filled with acid and left overnight. If you don't have a charger, you'll have to make some arrangements.
As for the popping on deceleration, is it really loud or just some pop-corn popping?
A lot of vehicles have a little popping when engine braking and such, it's just not audible with most stock mufflers. All my GS's have done it, my CB500 does it, my Jeep Cherokee did it.
Essentially what happens is when you close the throttle you immediately cut off a large supply of both air and fuel, but the engine is still pulling in a lot of air just from the vacuum and being at high RPMs, so in reality you end up shutting off more fuel than air (the higher your RPM the more dramatic this difference is).
The idle fuel source can't deliver enough fuel to keep the mixture proper at this point. The mixture leans out, it doesn't burn, you get unburnt fuel in the exhaust, and the fuel eventually ignites in the exhaust making the popping noises or backfire.
Most of the time it's just a little popping/chuffing. An extreme example would be if you switched the engine cutoff switch to OFF for a second or two while engine braking then flip the switch back to ON. You turn off the spark and end up running a lot of fuel into and out of the engine without igniting any of it. When you reintroduce a spark, look out! KABOOM!
So if it's really mild you can either ignore it (it sounds cool anyway) or adjust your idle screws to richen the mix a little. If it's loud, you might have to rejet to a fatter pilot jet or you could have a bad seal on the header.
Does it only happen on deceleration?
Did you recently install a new muffler or modify the stock one?
Check voltage from alternator leads and get new battery if okay.
sounds like a dead battery to me, id swop with a known good one and then check charging voltage once the bikes started
I just bought a 2005 500F and the previous owner said it has to be jumped and needs a battery...what battery is recommended?
Any battery with good reviews on Amazon is probably good enough. Are you looking for something in particular like a lithium ion battery?
Bikemaster AGM batteries are good.... Most AGM batteries are good and live a LOT longer than the lead acid type! ... :thumb:
Quote from: G.Rossman on May 27, 2016, 05:36:21 AM
I just bought a 2005 500F and the previous owner said it has to be jumped and needs a battery...what battery is recommended?
Most importantly, you need one that carries the B10-LB2 designation or is a direct equivalent, otherwise it wont fit.
After that......the type choice is yours.
Thanks, I saw a bike master on Amazon today and was curious how good it would be. Probably just order it, around 65 $ I think.
have you checked the acid level? I had a similar problem and all the acid in mine was gone. Filled it back up with distilled water and the battery works just like new. maybe that helps?