Hi,
Is there something extraordinary about the hex head bolts that hold the down pipe (exhaust) onto the head? I replaced one bolt with a metric grade 8 bolt that I had; it's the correct size and length. Is there something specific about the material used in the OEM bolt that I should worry about? Obviously my replacement is not OEM, nor is it an exhaust bolt; it's a bolt from a hardware store. It's stainless.
Any advice appreciated.
Nope, nothing really special. But..... a stainless bolt in a aluminum head can seize in place unless you used anti-seize. Heck, sometimes it feels like any bolt will seize without anti-seize....
I did not use anti seize... I just ordered anti seize.
I'll pull it apart and apply anti seize to the bolts.
Am I supposed to reduce the torque by 30% since the anti seize is a lube? I've got a phobia of stripped threads .
Thanks!
Yes, you need to reduce the applied torque if you lube the threads but a far better solution to this problem, at least in my view is to ditch the bolts altogether and instead use nuts and studs to hold the exhaust flange in place against the head.
No moisture,no electron transfer.......no corrosion.
Thanks guys!
Quote from: fetor56 on June 13, 2016, 12:59:00 AM
No moisture,no electron transfer.......no corrosion.
What does this mean? Does that anti-seize keep out moisture?
Quote from: lucas on June 13, 2016, 05:00:11 PM
Quote from: fetor56 on June 13, 2016, 12:59:00 AM
No moisture,no electron transfer.......no corrosion.
What does this mean? Does that anti-seize keep out moisture?
I'm saying the more moisture(particularly salt laden moisture) u subject your bike to the more corrision your going to have.
I replaced my OEM header bolts with stainless,but it really wasn't necessary.
So is it worth it for me to remove all 4 bolts and add anti seize to them at this stage? It sounds like they are guaranteed to seize if I don't? I hate to risk a snapped bolt now though since the bike is fine at the moment. Hmmm...
I removed all four bolts, brushed on antiseize, and replaced them using a torque wrench. My bolts were oddly enough both back out (loose) and "seizy" at the same time: as I was removing them there were instances where the bolt squeaked and "caught." At those times I sprayed Kroil onto the visible part of the bolt and screwed the bolt back in, loosening it as I went. Worked decent. After that I cleaned the bolts themselves with Kroil, then cleaned off the Kroil with degreaser, did the same for the threads in the head, waited, etc. The bolts all went back in smoothly.
I appreciate the advice here. I'm no mechanic and this thread really helped me.
Nex time round, studs as suggested.
I am not a stud and nut fan in this application, the flanges are flexible and can allow the nuts too loosen. I chased the threads in the cylinder head and torqued in some cross-drilled bolts with anti-sieze on the threads. Then wired the two bolts together so they don't back off unless you want to remove them.