Hey guys,
Ive decided to set up a project thread so I somewhere to keep my ideas for the time being.
HISTORY:
I bought my 1999 Suzuki GS500 (my first bike) in July 2015 for £500. When I bought the bike the mirrors had been removed and the tachometer was working. For me these were just non-issues, but after a couple of weeks I decided to look into why the tachometer wasn't working. Ordered a new cable online, whipped the old one off, issue not resolved. I noticed there was a lot of red gasket rubber shite in the hole, so I picked it out. :dunno_black: Such an idiot. What I found was the drive that pokes out of the engine and drives the cable had snapped off and some dickhead had gummed it up with rubber to hide any potential oil leaks.
Fast forward a 8 months and I low sided at lowish speed, pulling engine bits off the right side of the motor. The bike was laid up for a couple of weeks while I attempted repairs. Whilst I was working on the bike I pulled the valve cover and found that the threads on the camshaft that run the tachometer were damaged. This doesn't affect the running at all, just means that in order to get the mechanical tach working again I need to fit new camshafts.
Now the bike was left out in the rain after the insurance ran out, that's a duck move on my part, the battery is done. So now I have stored the bike in the garage and started taking bits and pieces off and I think this is a good opportunity to give the bike a good going over, fixing and modifying. The M.O.T. has run out too, and there are things that I want to repair before hand and I have already been toying with some modifying and tidying up the tail.
My plans are
-to get the fork seals changed,
-I've given the jets a clean but they may need to be adjusted because I wasn't vigilant during removal, so now the cabs back in it might be out of synch
-the bike needs a new battery,
-while the fork seals are being changed I think it's a good opportunity to check and clear the front caliper and maybe some new pads,
-I want to pull the clutch cover because while it was stood outside it was seemingly dropping oil. Maybe it just needs a new gasket.
-The chain needs a clean and lubricating
-I need to pull the cam cover again, get out the tach drive that is broken and plug the hole and get a new electric tach...or put new camshafts in, replace the broken drive for a new one and hook up the old mechanical tach.
-a new exhaust isn't essential but maybe in the future a nice pretty shiny one
-visible fasteners to be sprayed the same colour as the purple parts
-the silver bits (such as frame, swing arm, top yoke etc)
I've decided on the colours for the bike, but I can't decide where I want the metal flake, I think it might look good with it in the gold, and the purple then matt. But I can't decide if the contrast between metallic and flat will be too much
-I want to trim the rear fender, show more of the side profile of the rear wheel, and reduce the length at the back but keep enough of the fender so that I can still keep things like my bungee cords under the seat.
-considering a swap of tail light, maybe the 'f', or the sv1000 tail light is quite sexy, will take a bit of fannying around but could produce something special aesthetically
-i want to get rid of the rear indicators, replace them for vn side repeaters which are mounted into the tail fairings
Any comments are welcome too O0
Nice beginning to a project thread!! I enjoyed reading it.
I needz pictures!!! If you included them I'm sorry lol... can't see them sometimes here at work :technical:
Looks like you've got a pretty good list there and are headed in the right direction. Trimming the rear fender is a great idea... and I googled what the sv taillight looks like and I agree... that's a nice lookin' light.
Can't wait for updates :D
I have successfully removed the front end and given to the stanchions to one of those mechanic types to replace the oil seals. Up next is to give the old caliper a good old clean and maybe a little overhaul.
I'm stuck on whether or not to paint the front fender as the paint is alll messed up. The issue I have is living in sunny England, it's cold, and wet, and windy... and my garage is dirty, and cobwebby and dusty and there is no lighting in there. I have also never painted before and it will be a spray can jobby too. Love a challenge though :cookoo:
Sounds like you have good plans, but ShowBiz is right, PICTURES! You'll get a lot more interest if we can see what you have goin on. Either way, good luck :thumb:
So I have some pictures. Before I lowsided the bike, I did manage to take some pictures of Sookie:
(http://i64.tinypic.com/25ryovl.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/dzikw4.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/wbublv.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/142v96a.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/v5cryc.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/k51hcg.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2dj3x43.jpg)
Cosmetically the bike didn't really get beaten up in the crash, but we had some pretty savage rain and then the MOT and insurance ran out, so I put the bike in the garage as it was having problems starting.
I have finally got some of the front end off:
(http://i67.tinypic.com/23kfbk1.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2mp0ft5.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2197k6.jpg)
The stanchions are nasty, and need some attention but they are off at the garage getting the oil seals replaced, and at the moment I don't really have the means to tidy them up.
The front fender has lost paint where the speedo cable rubs - (http://i64.tinypic.com/dxlitf.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/24od1yd.jpg)
and the fender bracket is also looking very tired
(http://i67.tinypic.com/ilhy13.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/293jdwp.jpg)
also going to clean all the dirt off the front wheel while it's off
(http://i63.tinypic.com/4joxg4.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/24ls9sk.jpg)
Awesome pics !!
My fork/fender brace looked similar to that when I bought my GS... was going to clean it up but then saw the thick aluminum ones in the for sale section here on the board and I was like oh count me in for onea those! You should look into that too !!
It's crazy how much abuse these front fenders go through... damage from the cable or melted from the pipes... my original fender that came with the bike was cracked and missing pieces.... I'm rambling lol
Very cool update, carry on :cheers:
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on September 26, 2016, 10:16:10 PM
My fork/fender brace looked similar to that when I bought my GS... was going to clean it up but then saw the thick aluminum ones in the for sale section here on the board and I was like oh count me in for onea those! You should look into that too !!
That's not a bad idea. Than you.
I'm really struggling to put the bike back together. I've given the front wheel a wipe over and put the stanchions back on. I gave them a look over before fitting them and noticed some pitting which is annoying.
Today I'm going clean off the front rotor and fit the front end back together. My problem is though as I do put things back, they're just not good enough. I need to do more. I've order caliper seals and I'm going to give the brakes a good old cleaning, check the pads too.
Is it worth upgrading the caliper? Any recommendations?
I'm caught inbetween being eager to get the bike running and driving again and cleaning it up. :dunno_black:
I don't really have an opinion on the caliper thing... but others have done it!! If nobody replies, try searching for stuff like 'caliper upgrade' and 'caliper swap'
And I completely understand what you mean about wanting to ride and wanting to keep the momentum going while the bike is taken apart. That's why my "just paint the front rotor" project turned into a two month thing with a hundred other things getting done as well :icon_rolleyes:
After I lowsided the bike I needed a new timing rotor cover, which was quite beat up when I bought it, and it was black so I sanded it down to bare metal and didn't give it another thought.
When I first bought the cover:
(http://i64.tinypic.com/9vb6oj.jpg)
I forgot to get a picture of the bare metal. This is primered:
(http://i65.tinypic.com/157p2ye.jpg)
There are some imperfections in the metal which I should have filled but was being lazy.
(http://i66.tinypic.com/5plate.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2i7xrau.jpg)
Since I took these pictures I clear coated it, and then dropped it (wet face down) onto a dirty old rag :bs:
Not to fret, onto the front fender!! I decided to paint the area under the fender bracket as a tester to see if I could tackle larger areas.
Before:
(http://i68.tinypic.com/24od1yd.jpg)
Believe it or not I spent three hours sanding and an hour swearing to get to this point!
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2nkgn6.jpg)
I masked off my area:
(http://i64.tinypic.com/300bmlx.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2hmcwe8.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2n900vn.jpg)
I had no newspaper so I used printer paper which is all I had to hand
You can't tell from this picture but this is one coat and there were teeny bubbles, so I used 1000 grit and took them off.
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2hhhsmf.jpg)
This is after the second coat. I'm so pleased with how it the colour turned out. I'm reluctant to clear it because I like how flat it is. The areas around the bolt holes are imperfections I didn't fix because it's hidden under the fender bracket.
I took off the masking and this is the result:
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2znz4lk.jpg)
The adhesion promoter had sprayed onto the masked off paper area, and stuck the paper to the paint and lifted the paint off the fender, so when I peeled off the paper, I peeled off the paint >:(
This is the fender bracket when I took it off the bike:
(http://i67.tinypic.com/ilhy13.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/293jdwp.jpg)
I sanded the area down the best I could:
(http://i66.tinypic.com/15cdm6h.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/20hppx3.jpg)
I forgot to get a picture of the bracket in primer, so here it is after a second coat. It doesn't do the finish justice:
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2lc3a02.jpg) The finish is very sparkly. That is until I put it in the oven to exppose it to a little heat to help with drying/curing. So I've devised a plan of attack to solve all of it! I'm going to pile it all neatly in the driveway and set it on fiyyyyah!! :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted:
So yeah, that has been the constant fail that is my Tuesday. Thanks for tuning in.
O0
That all looks really good, but it pains me to see the troubles you are going through with paint. It's a familiar challenge. What are you painting with? If you are using rattle can paint I think it will potentially be worth your while to switch to catalyzed urethane. Way easier to get a smooth coat that will stick without having to keep it from being contaminated for hours. If you don't have a compressor then there's always preval. Should be enough for motorcycle parts. If you need >1 can quantity then the price (assuming you have the spray rig and place to paint) is really no more and the quality of paint and finish is way, way better.
Quote from: mr72 on October 04, 2016, 05:38:26 PM
That all looks really good, but it pains me to see the troubles you are going through with paint. It's a familiar challenge. What are you painting with? If you are using rattle can paint I think it will potentially be worth your while to switch to catalyzed urethane. Way easier to get a smooth coat that will stick without having to keep it from being contaminated for hours. If you don't have a compressor then there's always preval. Should be enough for motorcycle parts. If you need >1 can quantity then the price (assuming you have the spray rig and place to paint) is really no more and the quality of paint and finish is way, way better.
I am rattle canning it. I can't afford to the job done properly. The metal parts have been sorted, I used some steel wool to buff out the dirt on the timing rotor cover and resprayed throughout today. Just got to add the clear tomorrow. I started to sand off the old paint on the fender too. thinking a liquid stripped might be a better idea than scrubbing away with scraps of emery cloth and sanding block. :thumb:
I do have a great place for a workshop, the garage on my student house is incredible, but I accidentally tore the door off and there's no electricity, so there's no lights, no heat etc. But I'm nagging my landlord to get it all sorted out because I do like to do woodwork sometimes. :cheers: Still can't afford the air system to spray myself though. :dunno_white:
I appreciate the advice though :thumb:
O0
Quote from: the_63 on October 06, 2016, 12:50:07 PM
I am rattle canning it. I can't afford to the job done properly....
...Still can't afford the air system to spray myself though.
Well the rattle can will get expensive over time but I get your dilemma. I have rattle-can refinished probably a half dozen guitars for the same reason, and the last two I did were rattle can even though I have a good compressor and a LVLP rig etc. Just because in guitar-size quantity, the paint is much more expensive. It all depends on what paint you use, I suppose. Some paint is like $9-10 for an 11 oz can, and a quart of single-stage catalyzed urethane enamel will cover as much as maybe three or four cans like this and only costs $15-30 depending on the paint. So that's cheaper. But if you are using $4/can like Rustoleum then it's a wash or maybe even cheaper.
You can use a preval sprayer (single use, cheap air source) with catalyzed paint (single stage or two-stage polyurethane with hardener/activator) and get most of the benefits of the pro spray rig with little or none of the downside. For jobs the size of those you are doing it would probably be worth it. But you're already mostly down the road so maybe not worth it? The problems with rattle-can can be 1) it takes forever to dry (and I mean, like a month before it's fully cured) and it's possible to do bad things to the paint while it is still soft (like leave masking tape marks, for example.. or dent it with your fingernail or chip it while assembling something); 2) it is hard to get it to lay down evenly; 3) adhesion is far worse than the catalyzed paints; 4) it's not nearly as durable as catalyzed polyurethane or epoxy paint. With a catalyzed paint it is dry enough to recoat in under 15 minutes typically so you can build like 6-7 coats in an hour, and then you can sand on it and buff it 2 hours later, or assemble stuff without worrying about damaging the paint or a fly landing on it or you can tape it and paint graphics etc.
Beating a dead horse I know. Next project, maybe look into the preval stuff. But "pro" paint is a whole different world. Lots to learn. I had a real bumpy paint job the first time I did a 2-stage pro job and I had spent a couple hundred dollars just on the booth rental and over a thousand dollars on paint and materials. Now that's a job you don't want to have to redo.
BTW I am seriously considering rattle-canning my own GS500 refinish. It will cost less for paint (I'll use $4/can paint), I don't have to build a booth in my garage, I don't have to clean my LVLP gun between colors (which is a PAIN let me tell you), and I don't have to waste paint testing the tip, pattern, pressure, etc. But I am pretty sure the paint will not look nearly as good as it could. I am telling myself I don't care for the 25 year old motorcycle that I paid $900 for.
I pay between £12-14 per can, which is $15-18 US. Spent about £45 on cans so far. Cheapest pro job in my area is £400+. I'm torn though because the tank needs doing desperately, it's faded down to the red in areas. Tail plastics need work too, but at the moment, I'm confident I can get a result on them and the fender. But if I then take the tank to be done tidy, the colours wont match.
This bike is a pain in my ass. I just want to ride. This obsession side is :bs:
Time for an update. When I left you I was having a bad day with the painting. The timing rotor cover and the fender bracket turned out great, but I needed to address the fender. I started taking the paint off, what better way than with sandpaper, it worked well on the little bit I'd already done, but it did take me days with fine grit. I decided to get a more abrasive grit. I decided to go with the 40 grit. My friend said it looks as through I'd used the pavement (sidewalk) to take the paint off. The marks make in the plastic are deep and ugly :dunno_black: I can't help that I am a dreadful person. I decided that rather than fix the problem, I would just hide it under my bed instead. :thumb:
I ordered a new battery which is installed and breathing new life into the bike, I ordered the small fuel line that runs from the back of the fuel tap to the carb as the old one split, waiting for that to come. While I was removing the airbox in prep for the new fuel line, it got stuck, I gave it a tug, it caught the carbs and I snapped the nipple off the cap of the right carb :bs:
(http://i67.tinypic.com/ih5v6a.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/15dt06b.jpg)
I ordered a new cap and that arrived the next day, installed it almost immediately. The diaphragm underneath might need replacing as well though. When I took the cap off I noticed this sticky residue on the diaphragm and the inside of the old cap
cap: You can see the gunk along the top edge
(http://i66.tinypic.com/15qwyz9.jpg)
diaphragm:
(http://i67.tinypic.com/qp4c2t.jpg)
You can't really see in this picture but the gunk is all along the outer lip of the diaphragm
(http://i67.tinypic.com/29zbdp4.jpg)
Final little update was to the turn signals. I've installed 4 LED tun signals which are a work in progress
Rear:
(http://i68.tinypic.com/34pnes6.jpg)
Front:
(http://i65.tinypic.com/30vcitc.jpg)
All 4 signals turn on and remain solid when engaged, I bypassed the turn signal relay and the results were replicated so I didn't believe the fault lies with that component, until I'm writing this. Now I'm thinking that if the TSR is having the same effect as a length of wire then it's not doing what it's meant to...I think. I'm not good at electrics :embarassed:
So yeah, that's it.
O0
I'm not an eleco. I had this same thing happen a few years ago with an old NX650.
Here's how the flash problem was explained to me and how I got mine to work.
The flasher needs current passing through it to make it work, LEDs draw less current than standard bulbs so the flash won't work right.
There's a couple of things you can do to make them work-
1. connect a resister of a calculated value in parallel to each LED to increase the current through the relay back to what a standard bulb draws. ( this worked for me on my old NX650, an electrician at work advised me what resister to buy and they were a few cents at jaycar)
2. work out the current draw of your LEDs and buy a suitable new flasher.
Ian
Quote from: the_63 on December 01, 2016, 08:39:28 PM
I decided to go with the 40 grit.
!!! Wow. I sanded my fender very rapidly right through to the plastic in many spots using a random-orbital and 150 grit. It's quite soft.
If you used 40grit on plastic, you are probably going to have to just chunk the entire fender and get another one. You probably gouged it way too deep so that even if you sanded it back out flat it'd be thin and have a non-even surface.
Quote
The diaphragm underneath might need replacing as well though. When I took the cap off I noticed this sticky residue on the diaphragm and the inside of the old cap
cap: You can see the gunk along the top edge
(http://i65.tinypic.com/140gt4x.jpg)
diaphragm:
(http://i67.tinypic.com/qp4c2t.jpg)
You can't really see in this picture but the gunk is all along the outer lip of the diaphragm
(http://i67.tinypic.com/29zbdp4.jpg)
THAT is from spraying carburetor cleaner on the carbs in such a way as to allow it to leak onto the edges of the diaphragms. Or spraying carb cleaner into the throat of the carb while the bike is running, or you have a big vacuum leak and sprayed carb cleaner on it and it sucked the carb cleaner into the carb and deposited it on the high-vacuum side of the diaphragm.
If you spray carb cleaner directly onto the diaphragm it will immediately wrinkle up and begin to dissolve. Just another warning about overuse of carb cleaner! It's good for metal parts ONLY. It will do that to o-rings you cannot even see and don't know you are destroying. O-rings are cheap but a pain to get at and replace when you have inadvertently ruined them, but that diaphragm is kind of expensive.
Interesting thing you said about the top caps. On my bike's original carbs, both of the vacuum nipples were broken off by a previous owner.
Quote
Final little update was to the turn signals. I've installed 4 LED tun signals which are a work in progress
... Now I'm thinking that if the TSR is having the same effect as a length of wire then it's not doing what it's meant to...I think. I'm not good at electrics
That's right. It's because the way those old-style flashers work is with a bimetallic part that forms the bridge of the switch. It's a thin piece made from two different types of metal stuck together, and when it heats up, it curves due to the different expansion rates of the two pieces of metal. When it bends, it opens the relay contacts, turning the signals "off". Then it cools and bends back to its original shape which closes the contacts, then the signals come back "on" until they begin to draw some current and heat up the strip again, and it curves and opens and on and on. That works fine as long as the turn signals draw a known amount of current. When you replace the incandescent bulbs with LEDs, the LEDs draw much less current and it's not enough to heat this bimetallic strip inside the relay so that part never curves to open the contacts. The signals are therefore "on" all the time. You need a different type of flasher switch that either uses a timer (electronic style) so it goes on and off at the same rate regardless of what's plugged into it, or you need one made specifically for low-current LEDs so it goes on and off at a normal rate with LEDs, but it will vary depending on exactly which LEDs (or more specifically, what size dropping resistors are used for the LEDs).
Anyway, like I said in the other thread, sort out the "diode mod" in the dash and replace that flasher with one made for LEDs and things will work as expected. :thumb:
Yeah the fender is pretty trashed now :dunno_white:
About the carbs, I pulled the cap off the other side to check on the integrity of that side, just in case it needed to be swapped over and that side is perfect. It must have been me that sprayed the cleaner onto it, I've had the bike 18 months now, and if it was PO then I would imagine it would be in a worse state. So I just need to replace that one, I will add it to the list.
I also really needed that explanation on the flasher relay. I couldn't figure out why it flashed, but now it makes sense. :thumb:
I've got the diodes which I'll fit according to Adidasguy's information tomorrow and then I can put the new flasher relay in place when that arrives.
Thanks for your help and advice.
O0
Might be useful to update the old TODO list
-to get the fork seals changed - complete
-I've given the jets a clean but they may need to be adjusted because I wasn't vigilant during removal, so now the cabs back in it might be out of synch
-the bike needs a new battery, - complete
-while the fork seals are being changed I think it's a good opportunity to check and clear the front caliper and maybe some new pads,
-I want to pull the clutch cover because while it was stood outside it was seemingly dropping oil. Maybe it just needs a new gasket.
-The chain needs a clean and lubricating - Will be looking into this for tomorrow
-I need to pull the cam cover again, get out the tach drive that is broken and plug the hole and get a new electric tach...or put new camshafts in, replace the broken drive for a new one and hook up the old mechanical tach. - Ordered a replacement exhaust cam shaft so hopefully over the next week or so I should have rectified this entire thing.
-a new exhaust isn't essential but maybe in the future a nice pretty shiny one
-visible fasteners to be sprayed the same colour as the purple parts
-the silver bits (such as frame, swing arm, top yoke etc) -I can't remember what I meant by this! :cookoo:
-I want to trim the rear fender, show more of the side profile of the rear wheel, and reduce the length at the back but keep enough of the fender so that I can still keep things like my bungee cords under the seat.
-considering a swap of tail light, maybe the 'f', or the sv1000 tail light is quite sexy, will take a bit of fannying around but could produce something special aesthetically
-i want to get rid of the rear indicators, replace them for van side repeaters which are mounted into the tail fairings - this idea has changed slightly, I have installed the LED turn signals and am in the process of addressing the flash problem
Jobs on the todo list for tomorrow:
-Install diodes into circuit ready for when the flasher relay arrives.
-Cleaning the chain and getting it lubed
-Busting off the valve cover, removing old exhaust camshaft, removing the broken off tacho drive from the cylinder head ready to install replacement exhaust camshaft when it arrives.
Busy day
O0
On my crazy todo list from Saturday I achieved pretty much nothing. I wired in the diodes and fitted the new flasher relay, then realised on Sunday that the turn signals I've got are not E-marked, so are not road legal in this country. :mad: I ordered a couple of new tools, feeler gauges, shim tool, measuring caliper and popped the breather cover off, need to source a new gasket for that, and got the valve cover off.
Monday I spent the day taking bits off the back, fender came off tail plastics, seat, seat lock, luggage rails etc so I could clean them up properly. Philips-head bolts holding chain guard are stuck, which is annoying. Degreased the chain and gave it a quick rag over, need to take the brush to it too. Feeler gauges came so trotted off to the garage to check clearance. Both intake and right hand exhaust clearance are all less than my smallest gauge which is 0.04mm. So for the exhaust valve at least I may need to change that.
Than I was sat, chillin', perusing the other projects and I came across a gsxr600 tail swap. That train took us to how I like the high tail with exhaust mounted underneath and single sided swing-arm. Put a pin in the swing arm but it's not the first time I've dreamt of it. Found a picture online of an sv650 with twin round taillights, kinda looked like the afterburner on a jet.
:icon_idea: Out to the garage, get taillight lens, rear fender, tail fairings and licence plate. Covered the lens in nurses tape and cut out circles following the design embossed on the inside of the lens. Doesn't look too bad, decided to mark the fender ready for fenderectomy. Then back online to look for more design ideas...I found a cheap tail light that I've wondered about since I bought Sookie. If it works it will be epic, I'm not holding my breath at the minute though because it is a Dr. Frankenstein/atom bomb/man on the moon/Hindenburg kind of idea and I'm so far out of my depths I might as well be Tony Romo playing in the NFL (he sucks. so do the rest of the cowboys). :cookoo:
I remembered what I meant by "the silver bits in my original post! the silver bits are showing rust, so need some attention to see them right. Now I've written it hear I won't forget it. :icon_lol:
Plan of action for Tuesday:
-I'm hoping my cam shaft arrives, but until it does it's out with the old one and figure out how to get that old tacho drive out.
-Test cut the rear fender. I don't have access to any kind of power cutting tool, so I'll be testing out the hacksaw.
-Continue with scrubbing everything until it either shines or dissolves
O0
:cry:Got the camshafts out and revealed my arch nemesis :2guns:
(http://i63.tinypic.com/25infqc.jpg)
It looks as though one of the PO has tried to seel it :flipoff:
I've so far broken 2 screwdrivers trying to poke it out with a hammer. :mad: The silver metal is quite soft, I'm guessing aluminium, I managed to dril a 4mm hole into the "aluminium from the outside of the casing but it just seems to have seized it up more, it would rotate a couple of degrees back and forth but after the drill it won't move at all.
I have officially bitten off more than I can chew. :cry:
Went back out feeling very sorry for myself, (imagine Liverpool at halftime against AC Milan in Istanbul 2005) and tried once more, drilled out 2 more holes, re-positioned myself to the other side of the bike and BOOM!! :woohoo:
(http://i64.tinypic.com/rrus06.jpg)
The last of the broke tach drive has fallen! I AM SPARTA!
Now to address this:
(http://i66.tinypic.com/biuoo1.jpg)
They are the the broke thread bits off the camshaft...mostly. I think. Hopefully all the thread bits fell in there!
O0
UPDATE:
I really hate this project right now! the tachometer drive I bought over a year ago doesn't fit. I can't believe it :mad: one step forward two steps back with this thing. I'm so elated that the drive came out but utterly devastated that after being so close to solving an issue that's been present since I bought the bike, I'm once again months away from achieving my goal because the part I need is just too expensive. I mean in the last week I've spent 25% of my bank balance on the bike :cookoo:
In other news, I test cut the rear fender and the cut was quite clean. Before I make my final cuts I'm waiting on the light so I can see if it'll fit, if I need to make any adjustments etc. So that won't be until Thursday/Friday. My eagerness to get my camshaft has gone now, unless I can miraculously source a suitable replacement quick time.
O0
New taillight came this morning. Confirmed that my idea was a hair-brained scheme. Doesn't fit. :sad: Nevermind. At least now I now.
O0
After the disappointment of my tail light plans I have put the light back up for sale and I think I will go with the F tail light. Just trying to find a decent cheap one now.
I ordered some new fuel lines, and a new inline fuel filter to replace the one fitted. New carb diaphragm is also on its way so hopefully by the end of next week the carburetor will be buttoned up and installed and I can embark upon the sync/balance adventure :woohoo:
I did come across a set of k5 gauges which were cheap, (£36/$45) :woohoo: so I've picked them up as a contingency plan, incase my mechanical tach fails again. :nono: Found the part number for a blank that closes the tach hole too, 26442-45000. :cheers: Will try and source one of those if/when the time comes. They're on eBay UK for £14, US $12 and AUS for AUS$16.50 if someone else is actually reading my ramblings and want to upgrade their "E" gauges to "F". They were intended for the early K series which used F gauges and E cylinder heads.
I dismantled the dash and learned that I had LED's installed in the gauges, so that's one job I don't have to do. I have bought LED's for the warning indicators though so that will be done next week too.
My tachometer drive gear came this morning so that is now installed with my new exhaust camshaft, :woohoo: the valve clearances were less than 0.03 all round and as I could measure less than that I have assumed clearance is 0.01mm. The intake shims are 2.62mm and the exhaust shims are 2.72mm. Going to order 2x 2.57 and 2x 2.60, assuming that all clearances are 0.01mm this should take clearance to 0.05mm intake and 0.08mm exhaust. At the very least the new shims will provide enough clearance to provide a measurable space. But for now the engine is all buttoned up again. :bowdown: Need to get a new breather gasket.
I have removed the front caliper and dismantled it and given it a good old scrub and will be rebuilding tomorrow. It's basically a rebuild without doing a very good job. Doing the fluid tomorrow too. The pads have millions of wear left on them. Going to make a start on the rear end tomorrow, breaking down and cleaning. :dunno_white:
O0
Didn't really do very much today, had a bit of lie in after being up until 4am, I went along to a Suzuki dealer near me (yes I have one now :woohoo: ) to get a couple of shims. They said the shims were £11 each and would take approximately 2 weeks! :mad: I can get them online for £8 and it would take the same amount of time roughly. So that was a waste of time. On my way home I stopped off at an autoparts shop/garage for some grease and ended up picking up some cheap fuel lines. :woohoo: And my inline fuel filter arrived too. I needed to reposition the speedo drive and clear the disk off a bit so that's done, caliper back together with new seals and new brake fluid. I hate bleeding brakes!! Fitted the two lines from frame petcock to carbs with filter in fuel line.
Plan for Sunday/Monday/Tuesday is to replace tank lines, check rear wheel bearings, remove the rear wheel and clean it up, clean the disk, check rear brake pads, open up the caliper and clean it, replace piston seals, build caliper, clean underneath the bike while the wheel is off and get some of the crud off, I need to reroute the clutch cable because I did it wrong when I installed it and I can then clean in behind that cover while I'm at it.
This bike is so filthy I'm not sure it's ever been washed. It's going to take 2 or three good passes to get it to an acceptable and maintainable level. Hopefully then by Wednesday the LEDs I've ordered and the carb diaphragm will be here so I can stick them in their respective holes.
I need those valve shims before I can concentrate on the carburetor. I am looking forward to seeing that tachometer in action though! :D Oh Yes! :cheers:
Today I took the frame petcock off the tank and fitted the new on, reserve and drain lines and connect the first two to the frame petcock to stretch them out a little bit.
Then I took off the rear wheel and removed the sprocket and brake disk and gave them a clean up.
I determined that the exhaust valve clearance is actually 0.03mm, so going to chuck in the 2.62 from the intake giving 0.13mm cleaarnce and putting in 260 for the intake valves, should give between .03-.05mm. Just ordered those.
I watched a youtube video on a sv650 caliper clean and think I could have done a better job on mine. Wish I'd rebuilt it properly at least with new rubbers, bleed nipple etc. Prompted me to really sit down and think about what is needed to get the bike where I want it. I came up with a to do list of 57 things, I've ticked off 11.
O0
:bs:Another update: Day 13
It is about 2 weeks of constant work on the bike and the harder I work the less progress I make. Due to not having any any turn signals because I can't find any I like and because I've spent all my money, I can't MOT my bike until springtime, soo Marchish. Which is a good thing because I also need to save up for a new rear brake caliper :sad:
My k5 gauges arrived and I learned that gauges have a foam ring behind them, and that's why I couldn't get my gauges to sit correctly. So I stole them from the donors and put them on the bike. :thumb: Looks the same but it was nice knowing the bike was closer to being right.
Rear wheel is nice and clean and shiny, rear sprocket is nice and clean and shiny, brake disk is nice and clean and shiny. I took the front sprocket cover off to rereoute the clutch cable, and spent approx 8 hours cleaning up the cover and it's almost clean!! Almost... Next need to clean out the dirt and grime from around the sprocket. May need to replace the sprocket too, It's just rust and I don't know if it's just surface rust. :bs:
I can't get the chain guard off either, the fasteners are rusted solid and they are now rounded off. With no money for new tools, and without the tools I'm running out of options.
I took the rear brake caliper off to dismantle and clean and it's rusted bad. Needed to use my torque wrench to get the bolts out that hold the caliper together, that was a ball ache and one of the retaining pins for the break pads is rusted in place, not budging at all. So because I couldn't get the pads out, I couldn't pump the pistons out and they are also stuck tight in their little holes...still don't know what seals they need.
**managed to force one piston out, the piston that is still stuck is the one that the fluid didn't enter from the back. It's also the same side of the caliper that the rusted pin is stuck in too! I'm out of ideas for the minute, I soaked some blue roll in gt85 and wrapped it around the rusted pin in the hopes that it'll soak and release. No idea how I'll remove the piston without damaging it with pliers, I sprayed it with some break cleaner to try and ruin the seal.
Still waiting on my LED's, valve shims and carburetor diaphragm to arrive.
Goals before Christmas:
1.Clean speedo drive and regrease
2.Try to salvage fender
3.Install LED's into dash
4.Clean around sprocket
5.Hook up clutch cable
6.Install valve shims
7.Install carb diaphragm
8.Clean cylinder head
9.Install carbs
10.Install airbox
11.Route new lines and install tank and fuel tap
O0
Depends just how deep the scratches on the mudguard are but an electric heat gun will often smooth them out like new with careful application. Filler-primer can also help.
Quote from: gregjet on December 14, 2016, 01:41:46 PM
Depends just how deep the scratches on the mudguard are but an electric heat gun will often smooth them out like new with careful application. Filler-primer can also help.
The scratches reasonably deep, but I was thinking about a couple of lighter grits, and maybe a layer of filler. If it doesn't work I'll just have to ride with the hideous fender for a bit. I've seen a couple of purple fenders on eBay as a back up. I just figured while I have a wrecked the fender I could try and fix it. I like the heat idea. :thumb:
O0
This is behind the sprocket cover - Before:
(http://i65.tinypic.com/15y9n43.jpg)
Behind the sprocket cover - After(I gave up tbh):
(http://i66.tinypic.com/xfyo00.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2cwx0cw.jpg)
This is the back of the sprocket cover:
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2hqar8o.jpg)
Back of the sprocket cover #2:
(http://i66.tinypic.com/dbo6me.jpg)
Back of sprocket cover #3: Not going to get it any cleaner this!
(http://i65.tinypic.com/ok7fxj.jpg)
Rear brake caliper bits #1:
(http://i64.tinypic.com/rwjg1x.jpg)
Rear brake caliper bits #2:
(http://i65.tinypic.com/wm1b48.jpg)
Rear brake caliper problem part:
(http://i68.tinypic.com/f36s6p.jpg)
LED's came this morning too so they're in place. Don't really make much difference apart from the high beam, which was quite washed out by the light bulb and is now richer with the blue LED :cool:
Will update this post later with a fresh picture of behind the sprocket cover. TBC...
O0
Sprocket cover looks great!!! Cleaned mine like that a few years ago... so. much. crud. Ugh... I will want to check it out this coming year and clean it out again I'm sure.
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on December 15, 2016, 11:46:14 PM
Sprocket cover looks great!!! Cleaned mine like that a few years ago... so. much. crud. Ugh... I will want to check it out this coming year and clean it out again I'm sure.
Thanks, I did it in three stages
-degreaser, hot soapy water and wire brush
-degreaser and blue roll
-degeaser and cotton buds
Here's a picture of the front fender after the 40 grit :icon_lol:
(http://i67.tinypic.com/11qpfe1.jpg)
For the last 3 1/2 hours or so I have been working on the fender. Started with a 240 grit, tried to 120 some of the deeper scratches but it didn't have much effect, and now moved to 400 after a quick and gentle 240 again. It's not perfect but it has improved so much and so quickly. Considering applying a thin layer of body filler to even out the deepest scratches and the weird dent on the fender. It's coming along nicely I think. Going to pick up some finer grit tomorrow.
Still waiting on the carburetor diaphragm and the valve shims >:(
O0
You don't Need to go finer than 400 grit if you do it right. And don't go finer than 400 if you want paint to stick to it. You'll need a dedicated plastic primer and maybe adhesion promoter.
A replacement fender is cheaper than the sandpaper, primer and adhesion promoter plus way easier. Just scuff the factory paint with a Scotch brite and paint.
Quote from: mr72 on December 17, 2016, 06:06:37 AM
You don't Need to go finer than 400 grit if you do it right. And don't go finer than 400 if you want paint to stick to it. You'll need a dedicated plastic primer and maybe adhesion promoter.
A replacement fender is cheaper than the sandpaper, primer and adhesion promoter plus way easier. Just scuff the factory paint with a Scotch brite and paint.
Cool, thankfully I was too lazy to go out today so didn't get anymore sandpaper. I think the surface I have now might be good to paint on. I only have an etch primer, but I do have adhesion promoter. There isn't any factory paint left, took it all off, but the scuffing tip is good to know because I wanted to do tank and tail too, they're looking really neglected.
This is what it looks lie now:
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2s6sjd3.jpg)
compared to this
(http://i67.tinypic.com/11qpfe1.jpg)
I lied, the primer I have is just a grey primer
Just pulled the stuck pin and piston out of the caliper. :woohoo:
Trapped the pin in the chuck of my drill and gave it a few blasts one way, then the other and whamey! Issue resolved. Will need to replace the piston though as the pliers actually bit through the inner tube I was using as a cushion and has caused a couple of marks.
Would anyone file off the little burrs and reuse the piston?
O0
Went along to my local Halfrauds this morning to get some plastic primer, couldn't find any on the shelves so went to ask a member of staff, who told me they don't sell it. I explained that it was on their website, did he mean they didn't stock it. Off he went to his manager and he explained my query to her and she told me she'd never even heard of it.
Top notch service as usual :thumb:
Came home, cleaned the surface of the fender and gave it a couple of coats of adhesion aid. I gave it the hour recommended on the can, and it is touch dry, but its only 6oC, 43oF so thought it might be a good idea to leave it for another hour.
Thing is, it's 2pm now and the light is fading pretty fast. I'll give it half hour, then shoot the primer and bring it into the kitchen over night. Little bit warmer than the garage.
Hopefully tomorrow will be an engine day if the parts I ordered ever show up. Stay tuned
O0
So I'd sanded the fender and thought it was more or less ready to go. here's what I started with (post sanding)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/a44mcn.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/16l9sv8.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/jhxwuu.jpg)
1st pass with primer
(http://i66.tinypic.com/nqpfut.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/14b7s6r.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/1409rhs.jpg)
O0
This morning I called the company I ordered my carb diaphragm and valve shims from. The diaphragm was ordered 11 days ago and the shims were ordered a week ago. The lady I spoke to apparently chased up the royal mail to find out where my mail is. When she called back she said she would send me another diaphragm but the shims I ordered were out of stock so she would refund the cost. I am livid. I wanted the bike running by now, but instead I'm just twiddling my thumbs, waiting for the primer on the fender to dry. So looks like I'll be running sub .04mm intake and .03mm exhaust clearances instead. :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:
I put 2 more coats of primer on the fender this morning, and it should be enough to fill any deep scratches I made with the 40 grit...I think. I'll rub it down a bit and then coat it again, see how that turns out.
*The fender was pretty nice, got a large percentage of the scratches covered so I put another primer coat on, there's still a few imperfections but I'm out of primer now so tomorrow the colour is getting laid down :cheers:*
I've ordered a thread pitch tool, planning on some fastener replacement/database build up in the new year. The wiki seems short of one or two bolts.
I double checked the front wheel bearings too and they need replacing :mad: There's like nothing on this machine that's ok! Tyres are getting close, and there are spots of rust on the frame. I'm ticking one job off then finding new ones to replace them. This is my list, some of these things are not essential though, just would likes for the future:
1. Check Front wheel bearings – done
2. Replace Front wheel bearings
3. Remove front fender - done
4. Prep front fender
5. Paint front fender
6. Remove fender bracket - done
7. Paint fender bracket - done
8. Remove and clean speedo drive - done
9. Remove and clean front wheel - done
10. Remove and clean disk rotor - done
11. Remove and clean front caliper - done
12. Check brake pads - done
13. Replace brake line
14. Rebuild caliper (new seals/rubbers and nipple)
15. Replace brake fluid - done
16. Remove and paint stanchions
17. Get new turn signals
18. Fit dash LEDs - done
19. Reroute clutch cable - done
20. Swap clip-ons around - done
21. Bar end – underbar mirrors
22. New fuel tank lines - done
23. Remove and paint fuel tank
24. Scrub and clean exhaust headers
25. Clean engine block
26. Check valve clearance
27. Replace shims
28. Breather cover gasket
29. Oil change
30. Fit carb diaphragm
31. Check float height
32. Sync carbs
33. Idle adjust
34. Swap airbox for lunchbox & rejet carbs
35. Refurb battery box
36. Clean under tail section
37. Sv650 shock swap
38. Remove chain guard and clean
39. Scrub chain
40. Lube chain
41. Recover seat
42. Swap tail light to F
43. Remove and paint tail plastics
44. Touch up grab rail
45. Repaint luggage rails
46. Fenderectomy
47. Relocate rear reflector
48. X shaped number plate bracket
49. Flush rear mounted turn signals
50. Remove and clean rear wheel – done
51. Check rear wheel bearings
52. Remove and clean rear disk rotor - done
53. Remove and clean rear brake caliper
54. Rebuild rear caliper
55. Check rear brake pads - done
56. Replace rear brake line
57. Replace brake fluid
58. Remove and clean rear sprocket - done
59. Bandit 400 rear hugger
Ugh I hate the whole "hurry up and wait" thing... very frustrating indeed!!
Glad to see that Bandit hugger on your list ;) You'll probably get one and have it modified and installed on your bike long before my silly friend Gordon in Cumbernauld finds time to send me the one I ordered back in August :icon_rolleyes:
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on December 19, 2016, 12:35:32 PM
Ugh I hate the whole "hurry up and wait" thing... very frustrating indeed!!
Glad to see that Bandit hugger on your list ;) You'll probably get one and have it modified and installed on your bike long before my silly friend Gordon in Cumbernauld finds time to send me the one I ordered back in August :icon_rolleyes:
I think I exercised my patience, it's only a problem for me because once the diaphragm is in, I can put the carbs, the airbox and the tank back, connect the fuel lines, check the float height and fire the bike up. The shims aren't too urgent, both sides are on the bottom end of spec, but that'll work for another few thousand miles.
I'm focusing on the front end, a few more bits and it'll be right on the money. Few more bits = £500 give or take.
The tail end is going to need a lot of work, it needs a new shock, planning the hugger, new tail light, new tyre, new brake line, new pads, new everything in the caliper except the castings (pistons, seals, pad pins, shims, springs).
One step at a time
Chris
O0
Put two coats of colour on the front fender. It's drying in the kitchen right now. Will fit it to the bike when I get back home after the holidays.
(http://i64.tinypic.com/55s6mu.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/23h6lue.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2n09gr7.jpg)
Some of the nasty scratches coming through:
(http://i67.tinypic.com/swsduo.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/9vkzsw.jpg)
Alot of the mess is lost in the picture to be honest, but considering what it looked like 3 days ago I'm quite happy. First real spray job, without doubt room for improvement but, it's going into the win column. :cheers:
Chris
O0
it's tough to get a good paint job on plastic. Your fender looks at least as good as mine, and in theory I know what I am doing and can do a "pro" paint job if I wanted to. But I didn't care nearly enough so I rattle canned it and called it done. I'll save the "pro" jobs for my guitars or a motorcycle that cost more than $900.
Quote from: mr72 on December 20, 2016, 01:11:37 PM
it's tough to get a good paint job on plastic. Your fender looks at least as good as mine, and in theory I know what I am doing and can do a "pro" paint job if I wanted to. But I didn't care nearly enough so I rattle canned it and called it done. I'll save the "pro" jobs for my guitars or a motorcycle that cost more than $900.
Thanks Josh, hopefully the tail plastics will be better. And now I know not to use 40 grit to take the paint off, just take my time next time. And a finer grit :icon_lol:
Chris
O0
The key is to NOT take the paint off. Just get it smooth and scuff the surface. If there are gouges or dents then fill them with spot filler and sand flat, but don't sand through the paint.
That way the new paint will have a solid base to stick to (old paint), rather than having to deal with adhesion to plastic, which can be very challenging.
Example ... when I went to scuff my fender to repaint it, the old paint flaked off in sheets. That's because the PO sanded it to the plastic and didn't prep it properly before repainting, so the paint didn't stick (well). I had to re-prime and worry about surface prep, wouldn't have done so if I was painting on top of previous solid factory paint.
So here's the sequence: scuff the entire surface with red scotch brite pad to give new paint a tooth, fill any gouges or dings with spot filler and block-sand those spots with 400 grit, then clean the entire thing with mineral spirits and paint without any additional primer.
If you have lots of rough surface you can always hit it with a high-solids primer and then re-sand with 400 grit before painting, but it's probably not necessary and the more solvents (paint!) you spray on there the more likely you will reveal bad things in the underlying finish because the new paint sort of "melts" the layers below it to an extent and can make things appear that weren't there before, like finish checking or other things.
Red scotch bright will take a little sourcing here. :icon_lol: But it is the POA for the tank, and the tail plastics. The reason I went to bare plastic on the fender was the speedo cable had been rubbing for years it seemed and had gone done to bare plastic so I stripped the rest to rebuild. But the other bits aren't as bad. The paint is just rubbish because of the age. I'll grab some pictures to document. I really appreciate the support though mate.
Chris
O0
9:30am head into garage - install carb diaphragm - install carbs (throttle cable not hooked up)- partly install airbox because I've never hated anything else more in my life - crudely route fuel lines - install fuel tank - add 3 glugs of fuel - key in ignition - ignition on - red and green green lights on - killswitch activated - choke open - fuel tap on prime - hit start button...........
:woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:
She lives :icon_twisted:
I left it run to get up to heat with the aim of burning off any condensation but I don't think 5-10 minutes was enough, engine was hot, just not hot enough.
-There is a hole in the can where the mounting bracket is, which is a big problem.
-the left float is a little low
Tachometer works, I fixed it. :woohoo:
Going to remove the exhaust so I can clean the dirt and oil off the engine block at some point. Just left with big money jobs now and I'm tapped out.
Need to replace the throttle cable
new exhaust
turn signals
shock
possibly swing-arm
and a set of new tyres
Don't think I'll be riding in March
Chris
O0
Wow congrats getting the mechanicals sorted. That was a lot of work. I know how good it feekls to hit a milestone like that. :thumb: :thumb:
What kind of shock are you planning?
Quote from: mr72 on December 21, 2016, 05:17:44 AM
Wow congrats getting the mechanicals sorted. That was a lot of work. I know how good it feekls to hit a milestone like that. :thumb: :thumb:
What kind of shock are you planning?
I don't think I am anymore. Just found this:
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2akb3t2.jpg)
Chris
O0
Wow. that's a huge drag.
BTW if that crack is not into the interior of the crankcase, like if it is only at the mounting bolt area etc (I don't know from the pic) then you might try what I did with my Miata. When they shipped me the engine for my car they managed to break off one of the transmission mounting ears so I used Devcon Plastic Steel Putty to essentially make a new mounting ear. The cast block could not be welded so this was a hail mary. Worked great.
https://www.amazon.com/Devcon-10110-Plastic-Steel-Bottle/dp/B00065TMTO
So you might be able to mix some of this stuff up after cleaning that crack out thoroughly with, say, acetone, then fill the crack and hope for the best.
JB Weld might even work but the Devcon stuff is on a whole different level.
Thanks for the suggestion. Those tubs are selling on uk amazon for as much as £1150! Found a smaller quantity for £9.
Does it stand up to heat?
I appreciate you're help, I really thought the bike was dead!
Chris
O0
about the heat, it worked just fine for my car for about a two years (the car was totalled last year).
Their datasheet says when it's dry it withstands 250F
http://www.devcon.com/prodfiles/pdfs/fam_tds_101.pdf
I seriously doubt that part of an air cooled engine is going to exceed 250F.
Awesome thank you. I'll give it a bash. My only other viable option is to scrap the bike, and I'd rather avoid that.
Too answer your question about the shock, I was thinking about the SV650 shock, as far as I know, the katana isn't very common in the uk, so even though the SV650 shock adds more height, it's an easier part to souce.
Chris
O0
Just sitting here, sipping my coffee, trying to wake up and man... that pic sure did it!! My face was like :icon_eek: and then :o and then :sad:
Woot toot for mr72's suggestion!! Fingers crossed indeed that it's just on the exterior :kiss3:
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on December 21, 2016, 11:50:12 AM
Just sitting here, sipping my coffee, trying to wake up and man... that pic sure did it!! My face was like :icon_eek: and then :o and then :sad:
Woot toot for mr72's suggestion!! Fingers crossed indeed that it's just on the exterior :kiss3:
I found it literally while the bike was running. Took the wind right out of my sails. I've concluded that the frame may be wonky
Chris
O0
THIS POST IS INCOHERENT RAMBLING MAINLY FOR MY OWN BENEFIT. READING IT IS A WASTE OF TIME. I WILL MAKE IT MAKE SENSE LATER BUT IT'S AFTER 2AM AND I NEED TO SLEEP
So I haven't done an awful lot lately, lack of cash money and an overwhelming todo list has resulted in me not really doing anything while trying to decide what job is next. I've ordered new shims, the 2.60mm I ordered and didn't get before Christmas, I re-ordered. That cost £16.50 :dunno_black: Want these installed by 15/1/17.
I'm trying not to be in too big a rush to get the bike sorted as we're due to get VERY cold over the next month or two, so I might as well use that time to my advantage. I need to swap out the throttle cable, it's got a little kink at the carb end which will fray in time and eventually snap, I think that taking steps to prevent that situation is a good thing. That's another £8.99. Want throttle cable installed by 28/1/17. That will more or less complete project front half. All that will be left to do is replace the brake line by 28/2/17, remove the exhaust headers so I can clean the cylinder head by 22/1/17, but those bolts are seized too, and painting stuff (bottom of forks(31/12/17), headlamp bucket(31/7/17), tank(31/7/17)).
For project rear I'm going to replace the swingarm (by 28/2/17), the current one is a mess and I spent most of today trying to clean it up, get the rust off but 4 hours scrubbing with a wire brush has yielded minimal progress. I've found one on eBay that's in really great condition and not overly expensive, just not sure I can afford it before the listing ends. :bs: Most of the fasteners on this bike haven't been touched since they were originally installed it seems so I'm struggling to get them out. Prime example are the two philips head fasteners on the chain guard that I've completely rounded off that aren't even close to breaking loose!! So truth be told I won't be surprised if I can't get the swing arm or rear shock out.
Replacing the rear shock is also part of project rear end. The GS shock that is there is not in very good condition, but it's been doing the job fine. :icon_lol: I'm considering either the SV650 or the R6, that mod was planned anyway, but is sliding down the todo list because of the swing arm cost. Want this done by 31/3/2017.
Now that I've cut the fender I'm also planning on stuffing in a little bandit hugger (by 19/3/17), but this is not as urgent as the swing arm or shock. I've got a new licence plate bracket that's X-shaped. It's a preventative measure now the fender has gone; basically rear fenders in the UK are supposed to catch any debris flicked up by the tyre. I've cut that off and because the licence plate has to be a certain size it is going to act like a fender by itself. Obviously this is not ideal so the bracket should provide enough coverage of the licence plate to protect it. Once that's mounted I need a red reflector to keep MOT person happy, but it's not something I want installed permanently.
The muffler also has a small hole in it. Where the exhaust bracket is mounted, all the layers of the steel has fanned out on the mounting bracket because of rust and caused a small hole which blows smoke when the bike starts cold. So another reason to get the headers off is so I can cut the pipes and fit a slip on muffler by 19/3/17. Again this is not a small expense like the valve shims or throttle cable!
But we're not done yet, oh no, nowhere near...
After I've seen to the swing arm, dropped in a new shock, fudged in a rear hugger and slipped on a new muffler the brakes are still under construction. The line needs to be swapped out, want to put new hoses on front and back. The caliper was a right state. The plastic cap that sits on top is missing and everything inside was affected by corrosion. The pins were really bad, one was corroded in place, had to dismantle the caliper and trap the stuck pin in my drill and break it out that way. The pistons were a nightmare to get out and once they were out they have pitting all around, which would probably damage any new seals I install. I was going to buy a refurbished caliper online, but the chances that the pots have been replaced and are pitting free are slim at best. New pots are around £40-45 for a pair and all seals. The rebuild kits are around £20 and come with seals (doesn't hurt to have spares I suppose, or I could put them on eBay) new bleed nipple and rubber cover, and a rubber seal for inside the caliper and banjo bolt copper seals. There's also a little kit on eBay that has a couple of pins, with split pins for £4.95. The plastic clip is £10. That's topping £75, but the caliper will be completely rebuilt, and by myself. At least 70% of the parts will be new, which is better than spending £50 on a refurbished caliper that has pitted pots that will cost another £40 to replace.
The tail plastics will want a coat of paint to match the front fender and the hopefully freshly painted tank. The luggage rails need painting and the grab rail could do with a touch up too.
The pleather on the seat is broken in places and could do with replacing...that will also be a learning experience.
I was also thinking of swapping the rear wheel for a bandit 400 rear wheel, open up to a new world of tyres. That is actually the last thing on the list though, even after a set of new tyres which I also need. There's a couple hundred miles left on them, absolute maximum, but I'll put new tyres on my current wheels before sourcing a new wheel and wrapping it.
I read it anyway so there :flipoff: ;)
I remember when I recovered my seat a few years ago. The material I got was darn near what was on it from the factory. I believe it was a piece of vinyl with the white cloth looking back to it. Anyway, it was the tiniest bit stretchy which helped a LOT. Just take your time, (and I do mean take your time)... use a good powerful staple gun, have a flat screwdriver handy to pry out staples that ya put in and have to re-do because the cover needs more stretching or pulling in one area or the next/get rid of wrinkles... and you can totally do it. The patience and stretching to get the wrinkles out was the hardest part imo.
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on January 06, 2017, 08:14:47 PM
I read it anyway so there :flipoff: ;)
I remember when I recovered my seat a few years ago. The material I got was darn near what was on it from the factory. I believe it was a piece of vinyl with the white cloth looking back to it. Anyway, it was the tiniest bit stretchy which helped a LOT. Just take your time, (and I do mean take your time)... use a good powerful staple gun, have a flat screwdriver handy to pry out staples that ya put in and have to re-do because the cover needs more stretching or pulling in one area or the next/get rid of wrinkles... and you can totally do it. The patience and stretching to get the wrinkles out was the hardest part imo.
Haha, sorry, it started off as an update but the longer I spent typing, the more thought I was giving the rebuild and I realised I needed to set date targets to ensure my project would progress in a timely manner, I got a little bit lost but it was good to get my thoughts out of my head.
The material I'm planning on is just off eBay, it's cheap and cheerful. Figured it would be a good little project to sort of learn as I go and also would help to improve the aesthetic of the bike. The seat has holes in it atm, and after all this time, money and effort to get the bike better and not address something as "simple" and effective as the seat.
The swing arm I'm watching on eBay will cost £35 delivered http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-GS500E-GS500-E-1990-Swingarm-Swing-Arm-/311600255484?hash=item488cd291fc:g:I6QAAOSw-tNXH1og (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-GS500E-GS500-E-1990-Swingarm-Swing-Arm-/311600255484?hash=item488cd291fc:g:I6QAAOSw-tNXH1og) and has almost zero rust, but I've also seen a black one off an F series on eBay which is in similar condition and it's £25 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUZUKI-GS500-GS-500-2001-2008-REAR-SWINGARM-/172328657883?hash=item281f96a3db:g:KOMAAOSwMgdXypTu (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUZUKI-GS500-GS-500-2001-2008-REAR-SWINGARM-/172328657883?hash=item281f96a3db:g:KOMAAOSwMgdXypTu).
If I buy the black one the swing arm, fork bottoms and headlight bucket will be the same. Or I can spray the forks and headlight bucket to match the fender, tank and tail :dunno_black: decisions decisions :dunno_black:
Chris
O0
Decision made, going with the cheaper black one, I like the way it becomes invisible. It's inspired me to black out the pillion pegs too, should look pretty good with the black hugger.
I'm not going to replace the caliper pots right away either. I'm just going to replace all seals, bleed nipple, pins and split pins, and washers. Going to go ahead and order these bits soon.
Trying to set everything systematically, so that I can order and fit parts needed to pass the MOT so that the bike is passed ready for the end of march, then a couple of weeks out here and there throughout the rest of the year to finish off the rest of the upgrades/repairs needed.
Here's how the list stands:
-Replace intake shims with new shims and replace exhaust shims with old intake shims - ordered (£16.50)
-Check valve clearance
-Possibly replace front wheel bearings (£12.47)
-new turn signals (£60 budget)
-Rebuild the rear caliper and bleed the system - parts ordered (£23.90 spent, £47 left)
-Replace the muffler (£unknown)
Post MOT:
-Replace swing arm - ordered (£22.50)
-Shock mod - (£60 budget)
-Hugger install (£50 budget)
-Swap airbox for k&n luncbox and rejet (£75 budget)
-Oil change (£35)
-Replace the throttle cable (will probably get this done before MOT tbh) - ordered (£7)
-Replace breather cover gasket (£5.69)
-Paint the headlight bucket
-Paint the bottoms of the forks
-Paint the tank
-Paint the tail plastics
-Paint the luggage rails
-Paint the grab rail
-Paint the pillion pegs
***I'll probably leave all painting tasks until the summer when the the weather is a little warmer***
-Recover the seat (£25 budget)
-Swap tailight to an F version (£15 budget)
-Replace all brake lines (£100 budget)
-New tyre set (£130 budget)
Chris
O0
Parts for my brake caliper came, so caliper has all new seals, new pad pins and R-clips, new bleed nipple and cap and new banjo copper washers. :woohoo: Once I have a little more cash I can order in new pistons and that little plastic cover, then finish it all off with some new HEL brake lines.
I went to install the new throttle cable too and then realised that it's for the 1981, which apparently was also referred to as the ex, so I've had to return that and order a new one, should hopefully have that one by Friday. :flipoff: I'm expecting my shims tomorrow morning, but I won't be surprised if they don't turn up. The people I've ordered from are proving to be very unreliable. :mad:
I still haven't managed to get the exhaust headers off, I'm pretty much at the conclusion that I'm going to have to drill them out :2guns:
I just need to get a bunch of parts together and have a proper day in the garage with Sookie
Chris
O0
Shims didn't turn up, company reckons their supplier has been having a hard time sourcing the parts...why advertise you are selling something you don't have?! I haven't listed a Ferrari on eBay because I don't have one to sell. I've decided that if they don't arrive by Friday, I'm going to really start raising hell.
Breather gasket is here, and so is my new swingarm, it is in amazing condition, needs a big of a scrub, but will look so good on the bike I think.
Chris
O0
I once bought a high end paintball-marker off eBay and it didn't show up after a while. Got in some conversations with the seller, who was a shop out of state, basically I was just complaining about the time passed with no shipping update or anything. They tried adding a few incentives to "make it right" and when I refused all saying I just want the gun shipped they broke contact with me.
Opened a PayPal dispute. A week later I had my money back.
I'm guessing the shop didn't actually have possession of the gun. One thought is that after I bought it they went to the manufacturer to have one built, and due to the hand-made nature of them it was taking a while. They were probably trying to stall me. But, why didn't they just tell me the truth?
They could very well just have just never planned to deliver me anything...
Or, being a shop, maybe another employee sold it to a walk in customer by accident and rather than apologize to me and refund me they were scrambling to find another one they could box up and send to me. Good luck, these are pretty rare.
Who knows.
All I know is it was a waste of a few weeks and they suffered bad feedback.
Quote from: Watcher on January 11, 2017, 11:06:40 AM
I once bought a high end paintball-marker off eBay and it didn't show up after a while. Got in some conversations with the seller, who was a shop out of state, basically I was just complaining about the time passed with no shipping update or anything. They tried adding a few incentives to "make it right" and when I refused all saying I just want the gun shipped they broke contact with me.
Opened a PayPal dispute. A week later I had my money back.
I'm guessing the shop didn't actually have possession of the gun. One thought is that after I bought it they went to the manufacturer to have one built, and due to the hand-made nature of them it was taking a while. They were probably trying to stall me. But, why didn't they just tell me the truth?
They could very well just have just never planned to deliver me anything...
Or, being a shop, maybe another employee sold it to a walk in customer by accident and rather than apologize to me and refund me they were scrambling to find another one they could box up and send to me. Good luck, these are pretty rare.
Who knows.
All I know is it was a waste of a few weeks and they suffered bad feedback.
I mean, the majority of people get annoyed because people aren't being transparent. Like you say, if they were honest with you and offered an update to the situation you'd be more understanding.
Before Christmas I ordered a carb diaphragm from them, and 2 2.6mm shims from a listing for shims for a 1990something-2001 gs500. After a week they hadn't updated my order to show it had been posted, so I called them. They told they'd contact the postal service to try and find my order. When they called back they had been unable to locate my parcel and offered to send me a carb diaphragm, but didn't have the shims in stock. I personally don't think they posted them in the first place.
They had another listing of valve shims for newer versions of the bike, so I ordered some for a 2007-2008 gs500 instead. So far it's been a week, and they haven't updated my ebay order to show the items have been posted so I mailed them to find out if they were ever going to post them and that's when they told me they were going to post them tomorrow.
But they wouldn't have updated me if I hadn't contacted them. It's just bad customer service.
Chris
O0
Some good work going on dude, don't give up!! I lost interest in one of my projects and it sat on the bench for six months without touching it.
Have you rejected your carbs yet? I'm curious as to what I should jet to with cone filters and minimally baffled exhausts.
Quote from: pattman on January 11, 2017, 12:37:36 PM
Some good work going on dude, don't give up!! I lost interest in one of my projects and it sat on the bench for six months without touching it.
Have you rejected your carbs yet? I'm curious as to what I should jet to with cone filters and minimally baffled exhausts.
Thanks dude, I'm plodding along. I'm too invested in this bike to quit on it to be honest.
No I'm still running stock exhaust and airbox. I need to change the muffler as I'm quite sure there is a hole in it, and I hate the airbox, so it's coming out. I'll need to rejet then, but I honestly don't know what needs to be done to rejet. I haven't even read what would be involved.
Put the bike back together on Thursday, so got the wheel back on, lined up, chain adjusted, cut fender on. Think the fender needs a little more trim.
Shims arrived on Friday and I got them switched. Checked clearances and they've all messed up. :bs: I also installed the new throttle cable. :thumb: Stopped when my landlord came around to look at the broken door, then I lost day light. I was very start stop anyway because it was snowing, so I'd work until I lost the feeling in my hands then I'd come in and warm up, then go back out.
Yesterday I reinstalled the rear brake caliper but I had ohana come stay this weekend so I haven't done anything since. Need to bleed the brakes.
Here's how the list stands:
-Replace intake shims with new shims and replace exhaust shims with old intake shims - ordered (£16.50) - done
-Check valve clearance - done, needs more work
-Possibly replace front wheel bearings (£12.47)
-new turn signals (£60 budget)
-Rebuild the rear caliper and bleed the system - parts ordered (£23.90 spent, £47 left) need to bleed brakes
-Replace the muffler (£unknown)
Post MOT:
-Replace swing arm - ordered (£22.50) - received, looks epic. pictures soon.
-Shock mod - (£60 budget)
-Hugger install (£50 budget)
-Swap airbox for k&n luncbox and rejet (£75 budget)
-Oil change (£35)
-Replace the throttle cable (will probably get this done before MOT tbh) - ordered (£7) - done
-Replace breather cover gasket (£5.69) - done
-Paint the headlight bucket
-Paint the bottoms of the forks
-Paint the tank
-Paint the tail plastics
-Paint the luggage rails
-Paint the grab rail
-Paint the pillion pegs
***I'll probably leave all painting tasks until the summer when the the weather is a little warmer***
-Recover the seat (£25 budget)
-Swap tailight to an F version (£15 budget)
-Replace all brake lines (£100 budget)
-New tyre set (£130 budget)
Chris
O0
My new GS500F tail light came this morning. Squeezed it onto the back end and bodged the tail plastics on as well.
This is with the light on, not a very good picture to be honest:
(http://i66.tinypic.com/aw6dfc.jpg)
And without:
(http://i63.tinypic.com/wgrb6t.jpg)
You can also see my mini fenderectomy here too.
That's it for now...
Chris
O0
Awesome!!! :cool:
Just a little update. Got shims fitted and cover back on, new breather cover gasket and cover installed, air box back in, tank on and connected, haven't managed to get it to start yet though, but it's sounding healthy when I hit the starter.
Got it started. sounds perfectly reasonable, although i only ran it for a coupe of minutes and then it ran out of fuel.
Next job, will be bust off the exhaust headers. They are STUCK! Hopefully I can coax them off. NOPE! warmed the bike up, tried the allen key, rounded off my allen key, tried the pliers which just slipped of, tried a centre punch and a hammer. resisted the urge to kick the stupid thing over! Guess I'm drilling the heads off then...
Chris
O0
Quote from: the_63 on January 28, 2017, 12:30:22 PM
resisted the urge to kick the stupid thing over! Guess I'm drilling the heads off then...
If you're going to drill it anyway, you might use a reverse drill bit. Might actually pull the bolt out while you drill. Otherwise getting the guts of the bolts out may be quite a challenge with the jug on the bike. It'd be a pretty difficult task for a home DIYer even with the cylinders on the bench and using a drill press to make sure you drill the bolt and not the cylinder. The cylinder aluminum is much softer than the bolt so IME the drill will want to "walk" off of the bolt and very rapidly can drill the wrong thing, I mean in like 1/10 of a second, when trying to do this with a hand drill.
Quote from: mr72 on January 30, 2017, 08:09:10 AM
Quote from: the_63 on January 28, 2017, 12:30:22 PM
resisted the urge to kick the stupid thing over! Guess I'm drilling the heads off then...
If you're going to drill it anyway, you might use a reverse drill bit. Might actually pull the bolt out while you drill. Otherwise getting the guts of the bolts out may be quite a challenge with the jug on the bike. It'd be a pretty difficult task for a home DIYer even with the cylinders on the bench and using a drill press to make sure you drill the bolt and not the cylinder. The cylinder aluminum is much softer than the bolt so IME the drill will want to "walk" off of the bolt and very rapidly can drill the wrong thing, I mean in like 1/10 of a second, when trying to do this with a hand drill.
In my head, the plan was to hope that the head will pop off so that I can pull the headers away, then work on twisting the bolt out with the pipes out the way. I'm not experienced at all, so if you have another way for me to get these off I'll try anything
Chris
O0
So, after some fine tuning and loving attention, Sookie started making some very pretty sounds:
Naughty girl!
Chris
O0
Quote from: the_63 on January 30, 2017, 09:30:12 AM
In my head, the plan was to hope that the head will pop off so that I can pull the headers away, then work on twisting the bolt out with the pipes out the way. I'm not experienced at all, so if you have another way for me to get these off I'll try anything
That plan will work, but with an ordinary drill bit you are also tightening the bolt even more (potentially) as yo drill it. If you use a reverse drill bit, it will (hopefully) loosen the bolt a little as it drills it, and might even extract the bolt altogether. At least when the head is removed it will leave a loose stud stuck in the head rather than a super tight one that might not come out. In that case you would be left with drilling the center of the bolt out and re-tapping the hole, which would require a way to ensure the drill was going straight through the middle of the bolt.
So I'd say just do what you were planning, only with a left-hand bit.
By the way, did you already try heating the bolt/head to see if that loosens it enough to remove with a wrench? A heat gun should heat it sufficiently (or a torch if you have one), the aluminum head will expand much more than the bolt which tends to loosen the grip of the head on the bolt. If it's corroded then it might not help much, but worth a try, before something truly destructive like drilling.
Been doing some online window shopping, first I'm planning on an awesome shock I've found on eBay, just praying it'll be relisted and stay unpurchased until I get paid. 2nd on the list is the bandit400 hugger I've found. Takes my wish list to £85. Then I'm planning on a fresh new number plate (£15), indicators (£50) and then I've decided on a Delkavic DL10 exhaust (£199.99/£299.99 depending on muffler or full system). I'm leaning towards the full system, that way I can fit the can onto the existing headers for the MOT, then later on fit the nice headers when I figure out how the get the old ones off. I'm getting HEL brake lines too, front and back.
Now all I need is a massive cash injection. :dunno_white: Gona be a couple of weeks though :mad:
I don't wana wait!!! I want to ride my bike
Chris O0
Just realised that the awesome shock, which included the linkage for less than £50 shipped from the states, is the wrong one :flipoff:
Its the ball end, not the horseshoe end. I'm both gutted that it won't work because it's epic value, but relieved that I didn't just go ahead and buy it. Ah well, going to keep searching and try to land the hugger as cheaply as possible.
I'm just trying to accumulate parts as I go along right now, shock fell through, hugger is up next :cool:
Chris
O0
Bought a gsf 400 bandit hugger this morning for £30 ($37.40 us).
That is all
Chris
O0
Hooray!!!! You're gonna love it :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on February 10, 2017, 11:49:01 AM
Hooray!!!! You're gonna love it :icon_mrgreen:
Won't be on for a little while. I'm planning on replacing the muffler and fitting some turn signals for the MOT, then once it's road legal swap the shock, swingarm and fit the hugger at the same time. I'm just kinda stocking up the parts shelf for the moment.
Chris
O0
A little while ago I said I'd post pictures of my new swingarm, then I forgot, but now...
(http://i68.tinypic.com/e7dwg3.jpg)
Little chip on the chain guard mounts
(http://i63.tinypic.com/ohp7hj.jpg)
(http://i65.tinypic.com/slk7ib.jpg)
The ends are a little chipped, nd theres a little spot in the middle of this picture where the paint chipped
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2d9yz2e.jpg)
It's really in wicked condition!
And as an added bonus...here's my new gsf 400 bandit hugger:
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2ezmt0k.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/2urpeea.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/105cx2g.jpg)
Chris
O0
Just ordered some GSX-R 600 turn signals. They're flush mount at the front and stalks at the back, but I'm going to fit them in reverse so they're stalks up front and flush mounted in the tail plastics. Just like I originally planned. And as an added bonus, they only cost £24.99 delivered. Result :thumb:
Just need:
-licence plate, £15 (24/2/17)
-HEL brake lines £45 (30/4/17)
-rear shock,
-exhaust, £299.99 (31/3/17)
-tyres, £150 (24/2/17)
-k&n air filter, £45 (30/4/17)
-rejet,
-and a fix for the crank case crack and I'm done. Until the summer when project paint commences.
Chris
O0
oooh that's awesome 63! I love my gixxer signals (stalks)... what year did ya get 'em from? I bet they are gonna look super cool 8)
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on February 14, 2017, 05:57:43 PM
oooh that's awesome 63! I love my gixxer signals (stalks)... what year did ya get 'em from? I bet they are gonna look super cool 8)
Actually you were my inspiration behind them. I got them off eBay (where I buy all my parts :D). When you said you had gixer signals I started searching for suzuki fit signals and came across them. I came across 4 stalks for a 125 for the same price too, but thought that I wanted the flush mount signals since the start so I decided to just pull the trigger.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112280962784?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112280962784?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
These are what I've bought. Obviously I don't need all the wiring or the resistors, but they tick all my boxes. LED, look good, stalks up front, flush mount rear and their E-marked.
Chris
O0
New turn signal set arrived this morning, front indicators are mounted and wired in. One of the flush mount units has a hole in the lens from a crash which is disappointing, need to source another unit. Not ideal...but that's where I'm at. Need to drill the tail plastics to receive the indicators and I've ordered some connectors so they can be unplugged if the tail needs to come off, I've also ordered a new 3 pin connector for the tail light because I need to extend the wire length for a better fit, thought I'd renew the connectors too.
Also need to drill and mount the bracket for the licence plate. Maybe jobs for tomorrow/the weekend. Had a blinding headache all day so took me a while to fit the front units.
Chris
O0
+1 for plugs to the tail plastic mounted signals! I can't tell ya how many times they have come in handy for me.
Sucks balls to hear about the indicator with a hole in it... wtf :2guns:
I'm disappointed. It wasn't visible in the pictures because the lenses are clear and there's no mention of it in the description. Just a little disappointed because they're usually pretty good. Never mind, I'm trying to source a new one to replace it. Just need to find a breaking GSX-r600 or 750. shouldn't be so hard... :bs:
Chris
O0
hi guys,
Thought you might like to see the front turn signals...
from the side/back:
(http://i63.tinypic.com/117wq9v.jpg)
Off:
(http://i67.tinypic.com/wwi13l.jpg)
Left:
(http://i67.tinypic.com/24b9cu9.jpg)
Right:
(http://i67.tinypic.com/o7vfk8.jpg)
Sorry for the picture angles! for some reason my bullshit phone things they need to be rotated when uploaded to tinypic :mad:
Anyway...peace
Chris
O0
I used to use tinypic too, but got overly frustrated with their captchas, "failed uploads," and pic rotation. Check out postimg.org...that's who I use now.
Cool turn signals as well.
Quote from: Suzi Q on February 18, 2017, 01:50:53 PM
I used to use tinypic too, but got overly frustrated with their captchas, "failed uploads," and pic rotation. Check out postimg.org...that's who I use now.
Cool turn signals as well.
Yeah I'm pretty sick of it now.
Thanks, I bought a set off ebay that were taken from a GSX-R600, I've got flush mounts for the tail plastics, but one is wrecked, so I've ordered alternatives, and some rubber spacers to make it all a bit neater. Be about a week or so until their installed.
Chris
O0
Signals look nice, mate. Also, I really like the finish on your front fender. That almost matte look is awesome, I think you should do the tanks and tail plastics that way too :thumb:.
I agree!!!
Quote from: qcbaker on February 22, 2017, 04:43:04 AM
Signals look nice, mate. Also, I really like the finish on your front fender. That almost matte look is awesome, I think you should do the tanks and tail plastics that way too :thumb:.
Thanks guys, That is the plan, I'm postponing the painting until the summer when it's a little bit drier and warmer.
Chris
O0
Front tyre ordered. Pirelli Sport Demon 110/70/17. £38.10 delivered. I'm planning on a 140 rear. Gona cost approx. £80 delivered. Just have to find a nice garage man to fit them for a reasonable price now.
I've ordered new flush mount turn signals for the rear and some spacers which I plan on modifying to fit them on. Hope they arrive so I can fit them before the Wales game on Saturday. Excitement levels are high.
I wish I had more money...
Chris
O0
140 rear :woohoo:
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on February 23, 2017, 06:11:11 PM
140 rear :woohoo:
:D Yeah despite the price increment :D It's almost £15 more than the 130. I need to wait a couple of weeks for my loan and bursary to kick in before I can order it though.
I went shopping for jeans to a motorbike shop earlier today too, and they just ordered like 3 pairs of jeans in specifically for me to try, and they're well out of my price range. Plus I found some cheaper versions, in my size from their eBay shop :flipoff:
Chris
O0
haha hate to be repetitive but....
ebay :woohoo:
:D
hey speaking of LED turn signals. :icon_eek: I've been thinking about making a set of bar end LED turn signals.. think it would be a good idea? I know there are already some makers of bar end LEDs.. but they always use HORRIBLY crappy LEDs, and NEVER the right resistors TO power them. and they don't accommodate bar end mirrors. ya think I'm onto something?
to me bar end blinkers make a lot of sense. its the highest point of the bike, and you can see when you've left your blinkers on.. [just enchase your umm,clusters blinker indication bulb is burnt out...] :D
Quote from: J_Walker on February 23, 2017, 07:10:47 PM
hey speaking of LED turn signals. :icon_eek: I've been thinking about making a set of bar end LED turn signals.. think it would be a good idea? I know there are already some makers of bar end LEDs.. but they always use HORRIBLY crappy LEDs, and NEVER the right resistors TO power them. and they don't accommodate bar end mirrors. ya think I'm onto something?
to me bar end blinkers make a lot of sense. its the highest point of the bike, and you can see when you've left your blinkers on.. [just enchase your umm,clusters blinker indication bulb is burnt out...] :D
I see what you're saying. They'd need to E-marked for them to be road legal in the UK, and I wouldn't even want to begin to think of the wiring, but like you say, they're in an obvious position. In the UK for them to pass the MOT, Indicators must be fitted to a motorcycle and emit only orange light; They must flash on and off, not just dim and brighten; They must flash between 60 and 120 times per minute; They must be visible when riding or have a functioning idiot light; They must be securely fitted and so must the switch; They must not be adversely affected by the operation of another lamp or the horn.
If you're making them, might be worth fab'ing up a few of them, because if the bike goes down or clips a wing mirror or something then they might need to be replaced.
Chris
O0
Quote from: the_63 on February 23, 2017, 07:35:42 PM
Quote from: J_Walker on February 23, 2017, 07:10:47 PM
hey speaking of LED turn signals. :icon_eek: I've been thinking about making a set of bar end LED turn signals.. think it would be a good idea? I know there are already some makers of bar end LEDs.. but they always use HORRIBLY crappy LEDs, and NEVER the right resistors TO power them. and they don't accommodate bar end mirrors. ya think I'm onto something?
to me bar end blinkers make a lot of sense. its the highest point of the bike, and you can see when you've left your blinkers on.. [just enchase your umm,clusters blinker indication bulb is burnt out...] :D
I see what you're saying. They'd need to E-marked for them to be road legal in the UK, and I wouldn't even want to begin to think of the wiring, but like you say, they're in an obvious position. In the UK for them to pass the MOT, Indicators must be fitted to a motorcycle and emit only orange light; They must flash on and off, not just dim and brighten; They must flash between 60 and 120 times per minute; They must be visible when riding or have a functioning idiot light; They must be securely fitted and so must the switch; They must not be adversely affected by the operation of another lamp or the horn.
If you're making them, might be worth fab'ing up a few of them, because if the bike goes down or clips a wing mirror or something then they might need to be replaced.
Chris
O0
are you saying here..
"They must be securely fitted and so must the switch; They must not be adversely affected by the operation of another lamp or the horn."
that they require their own switch, or can they splice into standard turn signal switch? that's a bit confusing. Also, I'm not talking about using the bar-end blinkers INSTEAD Of other blinkers, think of them as an ADDON to exiting blinkers. so they might not even require an emark, I think if I got the color correct, everything would be good.
seems pretty easy to get them E-marked besides that confusing little bit. and could you "define" orange? because in the states its known as amber, just wondering if they are the same?. and for the wiring. for it to be clean, it would require one to drill maybe a 4mm hole on the underside of their bars, and it would come between the little gap between your instrument cluster and the triple. as the gauge of wire for the LEDs can be pretty darn small.
and that's a good idea, if I get to actually making a few, ill make sure to make extras..
where you see the clear orange part, that lens would actually be tinted amber, what I was thinking was casting an epoxy over the LED arrays.
(http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb97/coolcooljohn13/Motorcyclestuff/barendmirrorblinker_zps6ivm7ygi.png)
You would be able to wire them into the existing switch. What I posted are what our engineers are looking for at the testing station. using the existing setup is fine.
I'm pretty sure our turn signals are the same colour too.
Chris
O0
Quote from: J_Walker on February 23, 2017, 07:10:47 PM
...
to me bar end blinkers make a lot of sense. its the highest point of the bike, and you can see when you've left your blinkers on.. [just enchase your umm,clusters blinker indication bulb is burnt out...] :D
God, I leave my signal on more than I care to admit for this exact reason. I really have to get around to replacing that little light...
Or you could leave it a little while longer and potentially get in on the ground floor of the bar end binkers. :cheers:
Pointless update:
The jeans that infinity motorcycles ordered for my yesterday came in to try and neither fit...
I spoke to my dad this morning and he said that he would pay my rent next month so that freed up some cash for me so I ordered the rear tyre too, Pirelli Sport Demon 140/70/17 £78.40.
My new rear turn signals arrived this morning and I'm just waiting on the spacers to arrive before I set to work
Chris
O0
Instead of buying a pair of clear turn signals I was seduced by the dark lenses:
(http://i67.tinypic.com/b9hgdx.jpg)
But it was a mistake!!
Smoked on the left, clear on the right :mad:
(http://i65.tinypic.com/6szxhc.jpg)
Also can't decide on mount place...
(http://i65.tinypic.com/15dtd9e.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2cy4n6c.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/9u83s0.jpg)
Chris
O0
I'm leaning towards putting 'em on the way tippy end there... like in the last pic.
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on February 25, 2017, 02:42:55 PM
I'm leaning towards putting 'em on the way tippy end there... like in the last pic.
:cheers:
I do have a preference, but it's like 51% VS 49%
Chris
O0
Started the rear indicator mounting process when I got home from uni. Made a couple of templates out of cardboard to make sure my drilling points would be symmetrical, I was off by about 1mm on one side but I'm ok with that, I won't notice that. made a mark through the template with a centre punch then started making holes. Started with a 2mm brad point, then 4mm, 6mm, 8mm. The thread of the unit is 9mm, so I've stopped now until I can get a 9mm bit in the morning. Little bit disappointing but it's underway now.
Oh, and my front tyre came the other day, expecting the rear tomorrow.
On reflection I'm ever so slightly behind schedule, but that's due to funding. I was aiming to have the exhaust changed, tyres fitted and maybe an oil change before getting the bike MOT'd at the end of March. I might be able to afford to get the oil changed and the tyres fitted by then, but the exhaust almost certainly won't be.
Chris
O0
Finished up the flush mount tail indicators. I'm sure that I like them tbh...but they're on now and they're permanent. Need to do some fiddling because the non stock tail light doesn't fit well at all, and the tail plastics don't mesh properly as a result, but the indicators are now done. Had to stop because I'm too drunk to do the fiddly bits, keep dropping things. Next onto seeing if I can seal the exhaust with gungum paste, finish cutting the rear fender, get a new licence plate sorted out and new tyres fitted.
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/chrisboldero/20170301_1747581_zpsy3dqijwt.jpg)
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/chrisboldero/20170301_1748241_zps82z78752.jpg)
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/chrisboldero/20170301_1748451_zpsd1on47bw.jpg)
(http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u437/chrisboldero/20170301_1745331_zpsxfwfcb2o.jpg)
Chris
O0
Looks good. Sometimes i forget what a stock gs is supposed to look like.
Quote from: J_Walker on March 01, 2017, 12:10:58 PM
Looks good. Sometimes i forget what a stock gs is supposed to look like.
I think they look a little bug eyed.
Chris
O0
Quote from: the_63 on March 01, 2017, 01:19:56 PM
Quote from: J_Walker on March 01, 2017, 12:10:58 PM
Looks good. Sometimes i forget what a stock gs is supposed to look like.
I think they look a little bug eyed.
Chris
O0
they look like they should be more on the sides... but they are where they are now. unless you wanna re-do it.. I got rear plastics off my 05. in black... :cool:
lol
I really like those blue LED's in the backlight of the gauges. I have red..
but mine are only 1 LED bulb from a packet of LED's with a resistor tied in, and hot glued into the existing rubber OEM bulb housing... so not nearly as bright. gonna re-do it when I take the whole housing apart to replace the broken needles on the inside, and de-yellow the mileage an trip numbers. [oxyclean and hydrogen peroxide] and put a silicone seal on the plastic outer faces to keep the little water that sometimes sneaks in there, out.
I'm thinking of making up some brass needles, polishing them out, and then having them powder coated clear to keep them from tarnishing.. powder coating works great on outdoor wrought iron fences now days, can't see why it wouldn't work great on the gauges... I love me some well placed polished brass.. if only it was easy to electroplate brass! I'd make the stainless rings around the gauge brass too! lol
I like 'em! And I think they will be easy to see from a "I'm following you driving down the road" point of view.
Perhaps they will grow on ya 63.
Thanks guys.
J, I think if you use brass needles, which could be cool, you could use it to accent other places too. The dial plates sounds like it would look rad. The blue LED's were already fitted. The LED units themselves are very unusual. They are like 13 LED's, 2 layers of 5 and a top layer of 3, but they are all laid flat so it's a super compact unit, and I cannot find them anywhere.
I hope they do Showbiz, I think they might need to be swapped for clear lenses.
Update: today I tried to fill the holes in the exhaust can with gungum. Letting it set overnight because when I tried to use the exhaust heat, the gasses just pushed the paste out of the holes. Made some cuts to the fender, should finish it off tomorrow. I wish I had a rotary tool
Chris
O0
Quote from: the_63 on March 02, 2017, 12:15:00 PM
Thanks guys.
J, I think if you use brass needles, which could be cool, you could use it to accent other places too. The dial plates sounds like it would look rad. The blue LED's were already fitted. The LED units themselves are very unusual. They are like 13 LED's, 2 layers of 5 and a top layer of 3, but they are all laid flat so it's a super compact unit, and I cannot find them anywhere.
I hope they do Showbiz, I think they might need to be swapped for clear lenses.
Update: today I tried to fill the holes in the exhaust can with gungum. Letting it set overnight because when I tried to use the exhaust heat, the gasses just pushed the paste out of the holes. Made some cuts to the fender, should finish it off tomorrow. I wish I had a rotary tool
Chris
O0
by dial plates, you're talking about the gauge faces right? [the things with the numbers on them?] idk if that would be too much brass on brass...
No mate, the metal bits that the units sit in, with the idiot lights. If the dial faces were brass you'd lose your needle.
Chris
O0
The gungum worked on the holes at the top, but now it's either caused or revealed a hole lower down which is dropping dirty water. I can't get to it though because it's behind the heat shield which is pop-riveted onto the can. It's not salvageable. £300 exhaust here I come. Anyone got a spare £300?
Chris
O0
Quote from: the_63 on March 03, 2017, 09:07:42 AM
The gungum worked on the holes at the top, but now it's either caused or revealed a hole lower down which is dropping dirty water. I can't get to it though because it's behind the heat shield which is pop-riveted onto the can. It's not salvageable. £300 exhaust here I come. Anyone got a spare £300?
Chris
O0
You could always look into cutting the can part off and converting the header to accept slip-on mufflers. Might be cheaper than a new exhaust. :dunno_black:
Also, there are used stock exhausts on ebay for much cheaper than that, just FYI.
I know, I just didn't want to pay for a 2nd hand can, to spend out on a new system soon after. The can is £200 on it's own, and the headers by themselves are £120, so it makes more sense to buy a full system for £300. Just frustrated that I don't have the money for it, there's a delay in my funding now that I'm back studying, I need the money to buy the exhaust, once I have the exhaust the bike will pass the MOT and I can ride again.
The funding delay just puts me further behind schedule and that's just uncool.
Chris
O0
Once again I jumped the gun. Got on the floor and checked under the can, there's a pin hole in the bottom which I think is there to prevent water building up.So the exhaust is fixed, I finished trimming the rear fender and reinstalled the licence plate and bracket. It's desperate for oil, so I think I'll drain the old stuff and change the filter while I'm at it. Gives me a little more time to get cash together for the exhaust now, and I can MOT it now.
Chris
O0
I forget the exact exhaust system, but there is a REALLY good sounding one that runs really thin mufflers, stacked on top of each other, so instead of Y piping in, they go straight to the mufflers, it sounds REALLY good with the whiny noise of the GS engine. but i dont think they'd pass any sort of inspection.
Popped off the old front tyre, fitted the new one, couldn't get the bead set though, which sucks, so will have to take it to a garage to get it done. It's almost done, just the last little bit won't pop and complete the bead.
Chris
O0
Took the front wheel to a shop, they completed the fitting and balanced the wheel for a 5er. :cheers: Wheel now back on bike.
Rear wheel next.
Chris
O0
Couldn't budge the rear tyre, so went to the same shop and they fitted it for me. Wheel is back on, I couldn't install the front caliper because the pad retaining spring was all mangled, but had to take the caliper off to learn this, so I've replaced the spring and now need to replace the fluid to finish that off, oil is very low, so I'm just going to drain what's left, replace the filter and fill her up with some nice fresh stuff.
I also replaced the tail indicators with some clear ones and I think it looks better. before I put it through its MOT I need to stick on the rear reflector and try to align the headlight. I'm getting excited now!
Chris
O0
Very excited for you! :star:
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on March 11, 2017, 01:08:32 PM
Very excited for you! :star:
Aww thanks :icon_mrgreen:
In true 63 fashion though, I want more parts. I want new chain and sprockets, front sprocket -1 tooth and new cush drive rubbers too. Plus the exhaust, R6 shock and lunchbox filter.
In all honestly it depends on the upper crankcase. If it needs replacing I'll put it into a garage I think. Don't have the expertise to transfer the components myself.
Chris
O0
Not an awful lot to update. I've got my new brake fluid and oil filter, just waiting on the oil. I've also ordered some new spade connectors because the boat connectors I used wouldn't fit through the hole I drilled in the tail plastics, so waiting on those to finish wiring in the indicators, and I've literally just ordered some carbon HEL lines, which should be here for the end of next week. Pumping the brakes on the chain and sprockets for now too.
Chris
O0
Hey twinnerz, quick update on this. Oil came in, I changed the oil and filter, finished wiring in the new indicators on the tail and counted the flash rate, was like 75 times/minute, flash rate needs to be 60-120/minute. Mission accomplished. :cheers: I recorded the ordeal and plan on posting it to Youtube as a tutorial, kinda prove that having zero mechanical experience doesn't make a difference, a little guidance/advice, a can do attitude and some tools and you can become reasonably competent too, saving you dollar dollar in the long run.
I'm now waiting for my new brake lines, so I can fit them and bleed the brakes, adjust the headlight as best as I can and then it's MOT time.
Chris
O0
:woohoo:
Awesome job, mate. Can't wait to see "*currently offroad :(" get taken off your sig.
+1 to that!!! :thumb:
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on March 20, 2017, 06:30:41 AM
+1 to that!!! :thumb:
Awesome job, mate. Can't wait to see "*currently offroad :(" get taken off your sig.
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on March 20, 2017, 06:30:41 AM
+1 to that!!! :thumb:
Appreciate your support guys! Just been taking measurements and marking my garage floor and back wall so I can repeatedly readjust my headlight beam if I need to. Will post a video on that too. Just need a spare pair of hands to do the job properly, then a good old fashioned wait until my brake lines arrive. I'm going to surprise my mum for Mother's Day this weekend so project MOT will officially be on hold from Friday.
Chris
O0
I decided to tackle the headlight adjustment today, after filming an oil check video. Got 60% of the way through the headlight adjustment video and my new indicators are impeding the headlight housing preventing proper adjustment. :technical: I've been thinking on it to come up with a viable solution, the indicators are soldered into the loom so I want to avoid cutting anymore if possible. It seems it's my only option though, cut the wires, add spacers, but the spacers are going to be big and ugly...
Anyway, fast forward a few hours and half a bottle of vodka later (it's Tuesday, students drink on Tuesday) and I'm back in the garage. I like to think about the bike in front of the bike. It helps us bond :kiss3:
I noticed that my tail light was hella bright and there was almost zero increase with the brake. I connected up the F light and it worked normally, so I connected my makeshift "loom" back up, incorrectly, and poof. No power. At all. It's dead :nono: Need to locate the fuse and just cross my fingers that's all it was.
Should've just left it alone :dunno_black:
Chris
O0
Couldn't leave it. It's the fuse. Will get a new one once tomorrows hangover has cleared. Don't know what to do about the break light though...
Chris
O0
Omg 63 that SUCKS about the headlight!!! :technical: :technical: :technical: :technical:
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on March 22, 2017, 05:25:43 AM
Omg 63 that SUCKS about the headlight!!! :technical: :technical: :technical: :technical:
Well I ran out to Halfords earlier and got a new fuse, but the power (electricity) kept cutting out, like the fuse had blown again whenever I turned sidelights/headlight on, but every time I checked the fuse it was still in tact. I could switch the ignition off, wait 5 seconds and it would work normally again. I checked the battery with a multimeter and it shows 12.75 volts :cheers:
I checked the turn signals and they were working unaffected and the horn was fine too. Gave the brake lever a squeeze and it cut out. The next time I turned the killswitch on and off went the power again. Fuse still in tact, battery still at 12.75V. :dunno_black:
Had a look at the bulbs in the tail light because they were the first thing I noticed being wrong last night and one of them was blown. So maybe that's the cause for the fuse blowing too.
Came in the house, had a quick google search, caught up briefly with the house mate who sleeps here for like 2 nights a month and when I got back out the garage and started to video what was happening as I systematically worked my way around the switches, the bike even fired up. Side light works, main beam works, full beam works, turn signals work, horn works, killswitch works, starter button works, front break switch works, foot brake switch works...
WTF?! :bs: My bikes an @$$hole lately!
And I was even thinking about giving her these today:
(http://i67.tinypic.com/98rg34.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/n3lt1k.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/10gwod0.jpg)
Chris
O0
I got a new 20amp fuse, fitted it. Turns out I didn't mess up the wiring, the tail light filament on one of the bulbs had blown, so it was running the power through the brake light instead. After I figured that out I was having issues where the power would just cut out. I tried all my buttons and switches and the indicators and horn were the only things functioning correctly. Took the headlight off, took the tail light off but this didn't have any affect. Put the multi-meter on the battery and that was perfectly healthy. I found 2 non-insulated spade connectors in the headlight bucket which I thought might have been causing the short; I traced their wires up to the ignition barrel which had wires in common with the headlight, tail light and killswitch. Wrapped some electrical tape around these, but the problem remained...left it for half hour and when I came back everything was working again. Sidelight bulb blew so I replaced that then went back out to Halfords for a tail light bulb. New bulb fixed the tail light issue, took a hacksaw to the thread on the right front indicator and that allowed for the headlight bucket to be positioned correctly.
My new brake lines arrived this morning so I have now fitted them. Started to make a video of my install, but that quickly fizzled out because I couldn't hold the brake lever, open the bleed nipple and hold my phone. It took me hours but now I have my new lines fitted.
While I was out at Halfords the second time I dropped in to a bike garage and booked an MOT for next Wednesday (Going back to Wales on Friday to Monday and have class all day Tuesday).
Been a busy ass day. Wiring issues, new bulbs, new brake lines, brakes bled, headlight adjusted, MOT booked. All that's left to do now is arrange insurance and Go around the bike and make sure everything is torqued and tight.
Chris
O0
Bought insurance, starts on Tuesday, ready for Wednesdays MOT. Did a few laps around the block and learned that it's VEEEERY slow to react when I pin the throttle open and the brakes are like pudding.
I don't know how to firm the brakes. I put about 350ml of new brake fluid through the front brake, I tied the lever up in case there was air in the line...
Don't really know where to go from here.
Chris
O0
Going to get some pre-mot pictures to post I think. The bike looks pretty much like I've done nothing, which kinda sucks. I bred the brakes again to try and chase out the poor bite, I think it might be time for new pads. I'll see how the MOT goes.
I've got a couple of leaks too. I can't decide if the high leak is coming from the tach drive, or (if oil can travel up when the bike stationary) the head gasket. The clutch cover gasket is also leaking, not as bad, but it wasn't very long ago that I replaced that gasket, and that cover infact!! :mad:
It's such a nice day, 10oC, partly cloudy, suns really bright; gutted I can't go out for a ride to be honest.
Chris
O0
Is that stator cover wet or dry? I think There's just a massive leak from the tach drive.
Chris
O0
I took the front caliper off to clean, hoping that it would improve the brakes. When I put them back, I forgot the R-clip for the pad retaining pin. So grateful I didn't eat tarmac!! :bowdown:
Also, to add to the list of gremlins, the in-line fuel filter is just dropping fuel all over the place. :mad:
Ah well, at least I managed nearly 10 miles :bs:
Chris
O0
Quote from: the_63 on March 22, 2017, 06:16:06 AM
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on March 22, 2017, 05:25:43 AM
Omg 63 that SUCKS about the headlight!!! :technical: :technical: :technical: :technical:
Well I ran out to Halfords earlier and got a new fuse, but the power (electricity) kept cutting out, like the fuse had blown again whenever I turned sidelights/headlight on, but every time I checked the fuse it was still in tact. I could switch the ignition off, wait 5 seconds and it would work normally again. I checked the battery with a multimeter and it shows 12.75 volts :cheers:
I checked the turn signals and they were working unaffected and the horn was fine too. Gave the brake lever a squeeze and it cut out. The next time I turned the killswitch on and off went the power again. Fuse still in tact, battery still at 12.75V. :dunno_black:
Had a look at the bulbs in the tail light because they were the first thing I noticed being wrong last night and one of them was blown. So maybe that's the cause for the fuse blowing too.
Came in the house, had a quick google search, caught up briefly with the house mate who sleeps here for like 2 nights a month and when I got back out the garage and started to video what was happening as I systematically worked my way around the switches, the bike even fired up. Side light works, main beam works, full beam works, turn signals work, horn works, killswitch works, starter button works, front break switch works, foot brake switch works...
WTF?! :bs: My bikes an @$$hole lately!
And I was even thinking about giving her these today:
Chris
O0
My fuse kept popping too and I couldn't figure out why and It was making me angry. my bike also an interesting starting issue, it would crank just fine but if you let off the button and it didn't KEEP going, and you pressed the button right away, you'd hear the starter relay click faintly, but then if you let off the button an waited a second, it would turn over just fine.. turned out the starter relay was on its way out, you know.. these things, and R&R are two things that when buying Suzuki's I should just plan on replacing out right. lol
Quote from: J_Walker on April 02, 2017, 12:17:04 AM
Quote from: the_63 on March 22, 2017, 06:16:06 AM
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on March 22, 2017, 05:25:43 AM
Omg 63 that SUCKS about the headlight!!! :technical: :technical: :technical: :technical:
Well I ran out to Halfords earlier and got a new fuse, but the power (electricity) kept cutting out, like the fuse had blown again whenever I turned sidelights/headlight on, but every time I checked the fuse it was still in tact. I could switch the ignition off, wait 5 seconds and it would work normally again. I checked the battery with a multimeter and it shows 12.75 volts :cheers:
I checked the turn signals and they were working unaffected and the horn was fine too. Gave the brake lever a squeeze and it cut out. The next time I turned the killswitch on and off went the power again. Fuse still in tact, battery still at 12.75V. :dunno_black:
Had a look at the bulbs in the tail light because they were the first thing I noticed being wrong last night and one of them was blown. So maybe that's the cause for the fuse blowing too.
Came in the house, had a quick google search, caught up briefly with the house mate who sleeps here for like 2 nights a month and when I got back out the garage and started to video what was happening as I systematically worked my way around the switches, the bike even fired up. Side light works, main beam works, full beam works, turn signals work, horn works, killswitch works, starter button works, front break switch works, foot brake switch works...
WTF?! :bs: My bikes an @$$hole lately!
And I was even thinking about giving her these today:
Chris
O0
My fuse kept popping too and I couldn't figure out why and It was making me angry. my bike also an interesting starting issue, it would crank just fine but if you let off the button and it didn't KEEP going, and you pressed the button right away, you'd hear the starter relay click faintly, but then if you let off the button an waited a second, it would turn over just fine.. turned out the starter relay was on its way out, you know.. these things, and R&R are two things that when buying Suzuki's I should just plan on replacing out right. lol
I think it was a short in the headlight bucket. Since I wrapped the bare connectors it's been fine.
Chris
O0
Today I have been repeating work...Sookie sprang a fuel leak and I can't determine why, or exactly where the leak is coming from, I have a vague area. I've ordered carb seals kits, I though I'd only need one but I've decided in for a penny, in for a pound and ordered a second kit today, first kit is fitted. I also oredered replacement in line fuel filter which came with a meter of hose so I've plonked that on the carb too. Annoyingly I need another diaphragm; the one I installed recently I managed to pinch and crease so I think that's why the bike has been running poorly.
Chris
O0
Hey it's good to see ya back!! Feels like it's been a while since you've been around the forum.... and I'm super glad to know Sookie is back on the road :thumb:
Do you like that inline fuel filter? I have one too and never had any problems with it but I've read countless times on the forum how they are bad to have :dunno_black:
Sucks about your fuel leak issues... hope you get 'em sorted out quick.
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on April 29, 2017, 05:36:38 PM
Hey it's good to see ya back!! Feels like it's been a while since you've been around the forum.... and I'm super glad to know Sookie is back on the road :thumb:
Do you like that inline fuel filter? I have one too and never had any problems with it but I've read countless times on the forum how they are bad to have :dunno_black:
Sucks about your fuel leak issues... hope you get 'em sorted out quick.
Well I was preoccupied with uni stuff after the fuel leak sprang and rather than try to find a solution I decided to lay the bike up again and went to visit my parents for a fortnight over the Easter holidays. Then when I got back from my parents I had a massive exam.
Now that's out of the way I've swapped the carb seals and fitted a new inline filter. I quite like having the filter in place, but the crab that is passing through my fuel lines is a concern. The bike had an inline filter installed when I bought it so when I swapped fuel lines I just swapped in a new filter, the issue I have is that the heat from the cylinder head caused the latest one to distort.
I can't get the bike to run properly atm though, very very low idle, and as soon as I touch the throttle it cuts out. It's too late for me to be trying to figure it out right now I'll deal with it tomorrow.
Chris
O0
Quote from: the_63 on May 03, 2017, 04:19:05 PM
...
I can't get the bike to run properly atm though, very very low idle, and as soon as I touch the throttle it cuts out.
Sound like its running really rich if you ask me.
Quote from: qcbaker on May 04, 2017, 05:10:53 AM
Quote from: the_63 on May 03, 2017, 04:19:05 PM
...
I can't get the bike to run properly atm though, very very low idle, and as soon as I touch the throttle it cuts out.
Sound like its running really rich if you ask me.
I'm inclined to agree with you. It's better now I've fitted the fuel tank and not just pouring fuel down the hose but it's very sluggish on the throttle, and that's when it's in neutral. needs a little fine tuning and maybe some new plugs
Chris
O0
My carbs were set at 3 1/4 turns out, so I set them to 2 as a starting point. It runs...last time I was in this position it was really unresponsive and topping out at about 40mph so I took it out for a test run. Throttle response is sick, it's powerful, fast and I've never had it run so sweet. Then it started to judder like it needed to be switched to reserve and it stalled before I could switch it. I put it on reserve and it wouldn't start again. It sounded so weak, like the battery was flat.
Had to walk it nearly all the way home, luckily I live at the bottom of a decent hill, so I putt it in gear and freewheeled down the hill, popped the clutch and off we went, 200 yards to my house. I cut the engine, tried to start it again but it was dead again. I've plugged it in in the garage to charge overnight. I'm hoping the battery is just flat but I've got a feeling the battery isn't charging while the engine is running. It just started right back up while it's plugged into the mains.
Going to try again tomorrow. But if it happens again I'm calling the breakdown guys, not trudging it the mile home like earlier. I'm cream crackered!!
Chris
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Took the bike out again and it was struggling. So I set the idle mixture to 2 3/4 turns, and it was idling at about 2.5k, so adjusted the idle adjuster to between 1k-1.5k. Haven't retested it yet, I'm too tired from pushing it round all weekend!
Chris
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Get the battery load tested. If its good, look into replacing some of the charging system components.
I have never had a motorcycle that needed so much work and so many parts. You need to write a book.
Quote from: ajensen on May 08, 2017, 06:59:16 PM
I have never had a motorcycle that needed so much work and so many parts. You need to write a book.
Neither have I!
Chris
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Chris, anything new with Sookie? How's it goin?
Nothing yet I'm afraid, still trying to figure out why she won't run properly.
Chris
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I have a tiny update:
I took the valve cover off and checked the timing which was off by one tooth. I also noticed that the vacuum hose on the frame petcock was kinked. I corrected the camshafts and reinforced the vacuum hose and I got it to run.
It's backfiring occasionally so I think it's the carb mixture screws. A little bit of fine tuning and I think it should be back to good. Can't take it out right now, I have to get ready to go to placement.
Chris
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Not happy at the moment! >:( Just took Sookie out for a quick blast around the block and the bike is going well. got home and was excited to ride into placement in the morning. Putting the bike back in the garage I realised that I've routed the throttle cable incorrectly :bs:
So I've given up
Chris
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Omg no don't give up!!!!
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on June 15, 2017, 08:25:14 PM
Omg no don't give up!!!!
I rode to placement anyway. I'll fix it eventually.
Chris
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Been a long time...
I have some exciting news, I now have an R6 shock to go in. Just saving up for a replacement exhaust, going to get a carbon fibre, slash cut Delckavic slip on from eBay. £200. Then when everything is in and collected I plan on switching the swing arm, fitting the bandit 400 hugger, fitting the new rear shock and replacing the exhaust.
Just about to have a tinker and give the bike a run, get it ready to hit the roads again
Chris
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Awesome update!!! Make sure to take pics :cheers:
Time for an update!!!!
So this weekend has been a bank holiday, 3 day weekend YO! So there has been some day drinking, and since splitting up with my partner I have been struggling to find positive things to focus on. Yesterday (Sunday 6th) I got all kinds of drunk, and seeing as how the electronic "F" tachometer upgrade I'd been planning doesn't seem like it's going to work, I have turned my focus to what I'm better at (not good at mind you!)
I removed the rear tyre, silver swing arm, GS500 stock shock (after mauling the top mount nut :technical: ) and replaced with the black "F" swingarm I bought to replace the stock one, and even fitted the replacement R6 shock. I have hit an issue, I obviously need a angle grinder (obvious if you've considered the R6 swap and seen the slipperymongoose video on Youtube) to remove some of the material on the new swingarm to prevent the R6 shock from hitting).
I currently have the black swingarm fitted, the R6 shock fitted (finger tight) and the dogbones wont't bolt in because the shock is hitting.
I have started to modify the bandit hugger to fit, but obviously it won't go until the swingarm has been altered and the new shock mounted.
Well, that's it...
Chris
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I ended up here after replying in the Hugger thread lol.
Ugh, sorry to hear about the split up... I am no stranger to the sad blanket that can cover everything when stuff like that happens. :icon_sad: Went through a pretty dark time just a few months ago and like that unfortunately. I've found that concentrating on my bike really does help... and yes of course, some beverages !
When I fitted the R6 shock, it looked at first like I'd have to grind the swingarm too... but I'm trying to remember what order I bolted everything up in... cuz IIRC, there was a way to bolt things into place but not tighten anything down... and it lined everything up correctly. It wasn't until I installed the shorter dogbones to raise the tail of the bike that I had to do some grinding.
Idk if that will help or not but I figured I'd share anyway. Awesome update!!!
To be honest with you Brit, I've decided that between the youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_0gnFaONfY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_0gnFaONfY) and your 400 bandit hugger post http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=71283.0 (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=71283.0) that I can't really add anything to it. I'll post update pictures when everything is completed, but truth is Soookie will soon be up for sale :cry:
I'm having to move back in with my parents over the summer and will not be able to keep her when I do. Will be gutted to see her go, but I'm hoping to get her purring like a kitten and to a standard that it will make a great second bike for someone out there.
Chris
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where pics? :dunno_black:
:icon_razz:
Sorry to hear you're going to let it go.
Well, it's been forever since I visited!
I moved back in with my parents (booo), kept the bike (yay). I still haven't bought the exhaust I was planning on 3 years ago and the price has increased by £115 :hithead:
I moved back out and away again, left the bike behind because it wasn't running, with the intent on tinkering when I visited my parents and then taking it back once it passed the mot. Then COVID-19...
I got caught up in unimportant tinkering while I was living with my parents, replacing rusty nuts and bolts which was utterly pointless. Ive rebuilt both calipers again, this time with all new everything including new pistons and pads, replaced the front and rear rotors and bolts, sealed the inside of the tank and replaced chicken neck and seals and replaced the airbox with a K&N lunchbox. That's why I'm here tbh, to find out what jets I'll need.
My next big spend is going to be a slip-on muffler so it will hopefully get through an MOT. The mounting bracket on the exhaust has kind of spread out with rust and theres a gaping hole in the top of the exhaust so it must be replaced. Won't be with what I really want, but I'm eager to get the bike on the road again, I haven't been on a bike in over three years :dunno_white:
Future projects will include
-replacing the stanchions because they have some pitting and rust and it makes more sense to me to replace them than keep replacing the seals, and while I'm at it progressive springs will probably be a good idea too.
-depending on how the carbs react to the new air filter, I will either need to re-jet, or I'll just switch back to the airbox and just pout about it :technical:
-change the footpegs for something a little nicer
-get the fender, tank and tail wrapped
-recover the seat
Then I believe I will be satisfied.
I hope you're all keeping safe and well. Until next time
Chris
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