or more specifically, how does one know when it's time to replace the chain, other than mileage?
When you've reached the end of the adjusters travel, or when it seems to stretch as soon as you get it tight again.
right before it snaps and breaks a hole in your cases! :o
Another good indicator is when you can see light in-between the rear spocket and the chain when you pull the chain straight back from the rear of the sprocket. Which is exactly what I'm experiencing now. Can you say "New sprockets! Oh Yeah, Oh yeah!".
Yeah something like that.
"Do you feel lucky, punk?"
If it helps, here's the "official" word from the Haynes manual:
(http://www.bbburma.net/Scans/Haynes_DriveChainWearCheck.jpg)
EDIT: Changed the photo link to point at my new webspace.
is there a way to replace the chain without taking the swingarm off?
Quote from: werase643right before it snaps and breaks a hole in your cases! :o
OK wrong answer.... Never mind... Mostly wrong...
The GS sproket is held in place with a clip. A chain when bunched between the case and sproket will cause the sproket to pop off rather than punch the cases. OK not always but it did in my case ... Of course it wraps around your back wheel and you wipe out... that always will happen.
Cool.
Srinath.
I've seen all sorts of things happen when a chain fails. Sometimes they just lay out on the ground behind the bike, sometimes they get wrapped around the rear wheel and swingarm (bad very bad), and I've seen it whip around the front and totally screw up the case and water pump of engines (but I've never seen a countersprocket "Pop" off :P ).
Jigger- You need either a rivet tool or a dremel with a cut off wheel to just cut it off (what I do).
The counter shaft sproket on most bikes is put on with a nut. The cheesiest thing on the GS is that clip that's holding the sproket on. It will come off before the chain breaks the cases cos its that weak.
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: jiggersplatis there a way to replace the chain without taking the swingarm off?
Yep, you just break the chain and take it off. This is easy with a decent chain breaker than pushes a pin out. Or you can grind the heads off a couple of pins with an angle grinder, and wrestle the side plate off.
The new one is put together with a master link, either a clip type or a rivet type. The clip type is easier. The rivet type is more secure, but definitly requires a special tool. The clip type is also supposed to be put on with a special tool to press the side plate into position. Some people have been known to use bits of scrap metal and c-clamps....
Quote from: jiggersplatis there a way to replace the chain without taking the swingarm off?
Yes! But if you buy an endless chain to replace it with, you're going to have to remove the swingarm anyway.
Your other choice is to buy a length of chain with a master link. This is the route I went. I:
* Used my Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to grind the heads off of both pins in an existing link. (Any link will do.)
* Pulled the sideplate off of the pins
* Disengaged one half of the chain from the hacked-up link
* Slipped the end of the new chain on the link
* Spun the wheel (slowly) to pull the new chain around both sprockets
* Replaced the hacked-up link with the new master link. (Harder than it sounds!)[/list:u]I used a clip-style master link. Whichever style of master link you choose, this article may help:
Chain ArticleEDIT: Changed the URL to point at my new webspace.
Quote from: KevinCThe clip type is also supposed to be put on with a special tool to press the side plate into position. Some people have been known to use bits of scrap metal and c-clamps....
I've used 3-foot channel locks.
Advice from a bike mechanic was the same as Scratch. The best way he said is to try and pull the chain away from the rear sprocket. Mine has about 10k on it and it barely moves off the sprocket. If you have a few friends with bikes you can check theirs and get an idea for what is tight and what is worn out. Not sure though what would be considered as worn out.
Rob
I got my bike with a little over 20000km on the odometer. I then had to replace the chain at ~ 28000km. The indication was that the tensioning was only good for 200-300km.
I think I took good care of the chain - at first I used the Castrol O-ring spray, but switched to Castrol Chain Wax later. I lubed it every 500-700km or after riding in bad weather.
D.
Does anyone know what the measurement between 21 pins on a new 520 chain is? :roll:
Just curious to know how much "stretch" the wear limit of 12.57 in (319.4 mm) allows. :roll:
I'm guessing that a pin to pin measurement on a new chain is 5/8 inch. Twenty of these makes 12.5 inches. That implies .07 in. of "stretch" allowed per twenty links. Over 110 links the total "stretch" comes to .385 inches. A little more than 3/8 inch. :mrgreen:
I looked at DID's web page and didn't see any spec. that answered my question. :dunno:
Anybody know?