Howdy Gents. Bought a 2009 with about 20k miles. Engine starts up and sounds healthy but the PO says the motor is shot. He thinks it spun a bearing.
I have my old 91 as a donor bike. Motor was running well when I wrecked it a couple years ago. It has been sitting waiting for a new front end for too long now. I figured I would pull the newer/broken lump, and replace it with the old/running one.
A quick search shows some usefull info on the differences between the two setups. I am not expecting a no-issue swap.
My question for everyone is: If you had two complete bikes for this swap, one old one new, how would you handle it?
I think all you need to do is swap engines, find a mechanichal tachometer (suspect your old one may be toast), and follow the instructions in the OM for resurrecting the engine after storage.
Also your new bike seems to have been an F, so the brackets for the oil cooler will be left unused.
Don't forget to take & post pics of the process :thumb:
Before you do the engine swap, I would determine if the engine actually is bad. You said it starts up and sounds healthy, maybe the PO is wrong about whats wrong with the bike. If you can't make the diagnosis yourself, I would take the bike to a mechanic that you trust and have them take a good look at it.
Quote from: qcbaker on September 17, 2016, 05:32:29 AM
Before you do the engine swap, I would determine if the engine actually is bad. You said it starts up and sounds healthy, maybe the PO is wrong about whats wrong with the bike. If you can't make the diagnosis yourself, I would take the bike to a mechanic that you trust and have them take a good look at it.
Agree. Not sure how the PO came to the conclusion. 20K isn't a lot of miles. Did he race it hard or run it dangerously low on oil? The top-end would typically starve before a bottom end ("spun bearing"). Pop the valve cover and see if there's top end damage, i.e. scoring on the cams, journals, dump the engine oil and look for silver shavings (bearing). Did you ride it around a little?
QuoteAgree. Not sure how the PO came to the conclusion. 20K isn't a lot of miles. Did he race it hard or run it dangerously low on oil? The top-end would typically starve before a bottom end ("spun bearing"). Pop the valve cover and see if there's top end damage, i.e. scoring on the cams, journals, dump the engine oil and look for silver shavings (bearing). Did you ride it around a little?
PO dumped the oil and found a lot of shavings. He added oil to demonstrate that it would start up and fuel correctly. When I couldn't detect anything wrong with the way it sounded, he warned that I would be able to if he revved it up a bit. Said he was not sure of the cause of the failure. Said the bike had sufficient oil.
I may try to recreate the sound before I tear it down but I definitely will take his word about the alarming amount of shavings in the oil. Which means it will get pulled either way.
I have had a bike make a racket with the cam chain was loose. Shavings - could well be other unrelated stuff.
A bad rod bearing mostly will make a banging noise all the time, if it even will start.
My bet is that its cam chain. Of course if its jumped a tooth, its likely toast anyway.
Cool.
Buddha.
This project hit the backburner for a while as I started doing track days on my Triumph. But I have sworn an oath to the Wife that I will not start any new projects till I clear my slate.
Current State: Engine from 91 swapped into the 09 chassis. Some light cosmetic mods as requested by the Wife. (mostly building it for her anyhow)
(http://i.imgur.com/eEBjBlf.jpg?1) (https://imgur.com/eEBjBlf)
Pulled the carbs to swap jets for the K&N Lunchbox and V&H exhaust. Aside from the bowl screws that always strip, and some gaskets that are a bit hard, everything looked to be in good shape.
(http://i.imgur.com/dG6MRcu.jpg?2) (https://imgur.com/dG6MRcu)
Glad I checked the diaphragms though! Both were pinched badly...
(http://i.imgur.com/wf3zZQk.jpg?1) (https://imgur.com/wf3zZQk)
Got the forks masked up too. I just prefer them black. Gonna swap some Sonic springs in while I have everything apart.
(http://i.imgur.com/bGqTmxa.jpg?1) (https://imgur.com/bGqTmxa)
Gonna re-pack and repaint the V&H exhaust. Those Stainless rivets were a PITA. Needed Cobalt bits and cutting fluid. Still cant separate the can though. Any ideas?
(http://i.imgur.com/xHOZ3ua.jpg?1) (https://imgur.com/xHOZ3ua)
Awesome update!! I enjoy that color scheme :cheers:
Sweet update and pics! (https://www.motohouston.com/forums/images/smilies/occasion18.gif)
I was thinking of painting my forks as I'm doing my springs at the moment. Can't wait to see more progress! :thumb:
BTW I ignored this first time around but I do have a couple of comments.
I'd use the newer bike's carbs (if they are not shot), intake boots, ignition (wholesale; igniter thru coils and plug wires) and swap the later engine's signal generator into the old motor. Keep all of the wiring of the newer motor as is. You will have to deal with the tach by hooking up your old bike's mech. tach or plugging the hole.
You will mainly run into swap issues if you try to use the '91's carbs and get around emission controls. Not worth it IMHO. Get it running right stock first, then worry about de-smogging if you desire. But the newer bike's three circuit carbs, ignition system with auto advance, etc., are all worth it to keep. They're nearly 20 years newer and at least a little bit more evolved.
While you have it apart, you might as well freshen the '09's carbs and rejet.
I do not like the newer carbs on anything. including the 89-00 motor.
However old 89-00 carbs fit the old airbox better and not really sure how the old airbox would fit into the new frame, I had 02 carbs and airbox on my 95, while it fit, the carbs gave me a ton of problems which I decided not to solve, swapping to the 89-00 carbs made all those issues disappear, with the one problem of airbox to carb fit not panning out right.
So 89-00 frame = 89-00 airbox = 89-00 carbs.
Maybe 01+ frame would take the 01+ air box and accept a 89-00 carb tolerably, not tried it cos I got no 89-00 frame.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: mr72 on April 09, 2018, 01:45:43 PM
While you have it apart, you might as well freshen the '09's carbs and rejet.
Yep. Thats the idea. All late model wiring has been retained.
Anyone have any thoughts on separating the exhaust can from the piping?
Quote from: Agno on April 10, 2018, 12:46:21 AM
...All late model wiring has been retained.
This is among the reasons I suggested keeping the late model carbs. You get the TPS and other electrical parts intact so you don't have to worry about how the ECU/igniter wants to work etc. Plus I think (in theory) the 3-circuit carbs should give better low-end torque and also give better midrange throttle response plus improved gas mileage. And they are less likely to be worn out just due to age.
Got to spend a little time in the garage today. felt good to be back in there playing with my toys.
It was a serious pain getting the Vance & Hines exhaust separated into its major parts. Even after taking cobalt bits to the Stainless rivets, The burred holes and the friction fit of the can made it a laborious process. I ended up cutting a half inch off of each end. Gonna drill clean new holes to re-rivet everything back together after finishing sanding and painting.
(http://i.imgur.com/pqQqAXh.jpg?2) (https://imgur.com/pqQqAXh)
Got my newly painted forks and that beautiful chunky fork brace mounted. Also threw on the frame sliders.
(http://i.imgur.com/7TlaVFk.jpg?1) (https://imgur.com/7TlaVFk)
(http://i.imgur.com/qkSSM8d.jpg?1) (https://imgur.com/qkSSM8d)
This is how the front end is sitting after todays session.
(http://i.imgur.com/a4uInvH.jpg?1) (https://imgur.com/a4uInvH)
I bought these KOSO blinkers for my Triumph but haven't tried them out yet. I think they would look nice on the GS too. Anyone used these yet? They are also sold as Yoshimura brand blinkers.
(http://i.imgur.com/ocwJGSc.jpg?2) (https://imgur.com/ocwJGSc)
Fork lowers look great in black! I have a spare set I was thinking about painting black....
Did you get to swap in the Sonic springs like you wanted?
Love those frame sliders. They look great. I wanted to get a set ever since reload posted that he made them... but with the belly pan I have now, I'd have to trim it down in order to install those sliders.
Sweet update :thumb:
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on August 13, 2018, 11:24:51 PM
Did you get to swap in the Sonic springs like you wanted?
Yep. Aside from fresh rubber, best upgrade you can make on this bike.
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on August 13, 2018, 11:24:51 PM
Love those frame sliders. They look great. I wanted to get a set ever since reload posted that he made them... but with the belly pan I have now, I'd have to trim it down in order to install those sliders.
Which belly pan do you have installed?
I couldn't agree more about the springs. I just did mine recently!
I have the belly pan from Moto Tuning Brazil. I know there are several different ones available for the GS on different sites... but I liked this one the most.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=70880.460
Anyone have any thoughts on trying to use aluminum rivets instead of the SS type on the exhaust? Bad idea?
Finally got some time to re-assemble the exhaust and carbs. Exhaust came out decent. Can't really tell I shortened it. looking forward to hearing the difference once I get her started.
I am now in the process of re-connecting all the hosing. The Old bike didn't have a pair valve so I need to figure out how to run the hoses without it. Might just try and eliminate all the unnecessary plumbing completely. Anyone have any experience with a minimal vacuum circuit?
Got all the hosing connected as per the various hosing diagrams. Dropped a battery in. All the lights work.
Problem now is getting the bike to see that it is in neutral. I am not really sure where the neutral sensor is and if it is compatible between old and new styles. time to do some digging around.
Pulled the sprocket cover off and pulled out the neutral sensor. There was no contact in there! Dug up the one from the old motor and popped it in. Worked like a charm.
Set up my makeshift fuel tank and tried to start her up for the first time.
I got it to idle while cold after adjusting the idle screw a bit. Once it heated up it would not restart.
Since I am anticipating playing with the carbs a bunch while troubleshooting fueling issues, I decided to add some quick disconnects with shut-offs. Hopefully I can make the tank removal process less annoying. I mounted the color matched R6 rear shock also.
I was hoping that with all the fuel plumbing hooked up correctly that I would be able to start her up again but it didn't work out. Gave it a few tries but so far the video above is the only time I got the bike to run at all.
(https://imgur.com/8B6CRww.jpg?1) (https://imgur.com/8B6CRww)
(https://imgur.com/ucT99rf.jpg?1) (https://imgur.com/ucT99rf)