Hey guys, I solved the issue of the side engine cover leaking oil, it turns out that it is a leaky cylinder gaskets dripping on the side engine cover. How involved would it be to replace these gaskets?Looking at everything, it looks like the engine will have to be pulled to perform this function. I'm a little surprised these gaskets are giving me so much trouble, as the bike has less than 9k on it, but it is a 93, so I assume the gaskets have deteriorated some what over that time. Link to video below
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DpF9g8PXuig&feature=youtu.be
Have you tried tightening up the headbolts?
You might get lucky you might not but its easier than pulling the cylinders out.
Yeah, I threw a wrench on it, they are pretty snug.
Do you have to pull the engine to change these gaskets, or can it be left on the bike. I have rebuilt small engines before, but this is getting pretty involved for my taste. I'd like to talk to a shop and see if they need any welding work done, perhaps exchange some labor.
If you want to retorque a head gasket normal practice would be to break them all loose and then torque them down to spec in normal sequence. You won't get anywhere just trying to tighten them without breaking them loose first.
Head can be pulled with engine in frame and cylinders can be removed to replace base gasket. No need to pull engine and I did it that way but some prefer to pull the engine.
How hard is it?
That's a relative question, its certainly not impossible but it all depends on how confident, competent and well equiped you are.
My advice......Read the workshop manual, study the procedure and make your own call :dunno_black:
My tip though....The bike is 23 years old so spend the night before praying to the almighty God of motorcycle engineering that all 4 header bolts come out without issue :sad:
The engine can stay in the bike. I had to replace a base gasket at the track once...with a hot engine and 20 minutes later ready for the next session....but then I have done this a few times.
Thanks for the info guys, I've got a full gasket set on it's way, the bike was due for a valve shim adjustment anyways.
its not a big job or a complicated one
BUT!!
make sure of your cam timing when you re assemble, the exhaust cam has a sneaky habit of sitting one tooth out.... doesnt bend valves but it does make you lose to snails in a drag race
if you need a manual send me a message and ill email you one
Thank you for the offer, I do have a Clymer manual on hand though. I got around to starting to tackle this project this evening. I started by checking the valve shims, I would like some confirmation to make sure I am understanding this. Measurements are
RH exhaust .004
LH exhaust .005
RH Intake .002
LH intake Could not get my smallest feeler to fit .0015
My next step would be to pull all the shims and measure their thickness correct? The exhaust valves are in spec right? But since I'm here should I go ahead and change them?
I wanted to get these ordered, that way when I dive into the project, I'll have everything and I'll be able to put the bike back together all in one shot. I hate having to stop a project midway :)
Ok, well I was tearing into the bike this evening, and I cant seem to get the head off, there is not enough clearance between the head and the frame to get it off. Do you need to remove the studs?
link to video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cbf3OPtb_BY&feature=youtu.be
Its tight but the head should wiggle off and out :dunno_black:
Is the clutch cable in the way? Have the studs backed out?
Quote from: sledge on October 23, 2016, 10:51:11 AM
Its tight but the head should wiggle off and out :dunno_black:
Is the clutch cable in the way? Have the studs backed out?
The cables are not really in the way, the top of the head hits the frame before the cables become an issue. I have no reason to beleive the studs have backed out as all the stud nuts were darn tight. I just got done fixing the skid loader, so I'll take a look at the bike again.
Do you guys recommend using RTV in conjunction with the gasket? It looks like it had some type of sealer from the factory.
Hey guys, I got the bike all put back together and its running great, the original oil leak is no longer a problem, but at this point I am now leaking oil from the cam chain tensioner. I used a torque wrench to install it, so it's good and tight with a brand new gasket from the gasket set I bought. Athena brand. Is there a up side and down side to the tensioner? I might have missed something. I was using baltimoreGS videos to help me along.
tentioner goes in either way, did you make everything nice and clean before installing the new gasket? and is the gasket leaking or is it coming from the end of the tentioner by the screws and rubber plug?