Hi everyone,
I installed a K&N Lunchbox and rejetted the carbs on my 09 CA model to 22.5/65/147.5.
Upon installing the filter, I learned a lot about the CA model with the P.O.S. CA Evap system (thanks to the forum and a lot of head scratching).
Anyways, I read tons of posts many of which the photos weren't working anymore.
So I have all these hoses dangling and could use some guidance.
On the pictures below
3 questions.
1. Can I remove the part in the Yellow Circle (First Pic)
2. Can I remove the part in the Red Circle (First Pic)
3. I've removed the CA EVAP system, can I just remove everything in the purple circle (Second Pic) and plug where the hoses go into in the Black Circles? (Second Pic)
(http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/g332/GREATROSSI46/FullSizeRender_zpsgyulsou5.jpg)
(http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/g332/GREATROSSI46/IMG_7006_zpsvucub6r9.png)
Obligatory 24hrs bump
Anyone?
I don't know the answer but if it was me I'd cap off the two openings on the bottom of the carbs after pulling the hoses, and chunk everything else, plugging carb holes where necessary. See what happens. Worst that happens is it doesn't work and you have to put it back.
Good luck.
I don't know the answer either but I don't recognise any of those pieces from my 96 and 97 non-CA models.
I'd say mr72 has the right idea. Just trace the hoses from those devices and cap off what needs capping off.
Quote from: mr72 on October 14, 2016, 10:09:07 AM
I don't know the answer but if it was me I'd cap off the two openings on the bottom of the carbs after pulling the hoses, and chunk everything else, plugging carb holes where necessary. See what happens. Worst that happens is it doesn't work and you have to put it back.
Good luck.
Thanks for the feedback, I'm going to pull off the hoses and cap them. I'm thinking they are part of the Evap system, which I've already pulled off.
Only thing I'd be concerned with is whether one of those things has a sensor in it that the bike needs to hear from in order to run, but I can't find a wiring diagram that indicates such a sensor. Technically speaking the engine doesn't NEED that stuff to run, it just needs to not leak air where they were originally attached.
It does need the vacuum petcock to be attached to a source of vacuum, so you might consider looking at the picture on this thread (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=56491.0) to see how the vacuum lines may be affected, make sure you don't leave a vacuum port open and that you connect the petcock.
Funny, I recently almost bought an '07 with low miles thinking I'd get something dependable out of it, but seeing the mess of vacuum hoses and extra emissions junk makes me glad I am investing in the '92 instead. I would have done just what you are doing, pull it all off and make the bike run without it. Come to think of it, I should have bought that '07 and converted it to VM32 carbs... oh well live and learn.
That doesn't do much of anything. Removing it isn't gonna help, or hurt. But my experience is with an 89-00 carb. I think its still useless maybe it helps get the fuel away if you drop it a little cleaner.
Cool.
Buddha.
Biggz - I'd say yes, you can get rid of all three systems. Or even go one step further, and get rid of the vacuum petcock and just replace it with an on/off valve. I did all those mods on my '07 without any ill effects.
The guy who helped me build up my bike was a firm believer in getting rid of potential vacuum leaks on any bike. Fingers crossed, as my bike is running well I can't argue with his logic.
Just make sure you securely cap any open tube that's left behind. Don't forget those two vertical white plastic discs at the front top of the carb (I believe those were designed to drop the slides at higher speeds, for emission purposes).
I did leave the TPS sensor - it's the little round black thing on the right side of the carb.
I agree about eliminating vacuum-operated stuff and therefore eliminating (or reducing) the chance of leaks... even to the point that I am still considering fitting VM32 carbs which have no vacuum at all. But the vacuum petcock only requires one vacuum hose, which is easy enough to ensure it doesn't leak. It's nearly as likely you'll get a vacuum leak from one of the caps. At least the vacuum petcock serves a purpose :) Having to manually turn the petcock on and off seems like kind of a pain to me.
Quote from: mr72 on October 17, 2016, 04:18:40 AM
Having to manually turn the petcock on and off seems like kind of a pain to me.
If you've ever taken a class this is just part of the shutdown procedure. We say "thumb key valve" to describe the process.
After a few times it becomes second nature, and you don't even have to look for it or really think about it.
On both my GSs I bypassed the petcock for a simple ball valve, and I installed it in the same spot the petcock goes.
Quote from: Watcher on October 17, 2016, 08:04:13 AM
If you've ever taken a class this is just part of the shutdown procedure. We say "thumb key valve" to describe the process.
After a few times it becomes second nature, and you don't even have to look for it or really think about it.
No doubt. They taught it in my MSF class but none of the motorcycles we used for the class actually had a fuel valve. They were all automatic in some way or used fuel injection and didn't have it at all.
Plus the downside of accidentally leaving it "on" on a GS is potentially a huge pain, maybe even a no-start situation next time you come back to the bike. You know many of these motorcycles have >20K miles on them and most in that case likely have somewhat leaky float needles so leaving a manual petcock on (or the stock one on PRI) will potentially cause a flooding and huge fuel leaking problem. It's at least a big clean up and at worst maybe you can't start the bike without some work.
Quote
On both my GSs I bypassed the petcock for a simple ball valve, and I installed it in the same spot the petcock goes.
If I suspected there was anything amiss with my petcock I'd do the same thing. As long as it's not broke, I figure no point in fixing it. I'm sure at one point I'll have to address this.
Yeah, the automatic one is convenient. But I think the threat of leaving the bike with direct fuel on is more likely with an automatic that goes bad and is switched to prime than a manual that is actuated every ride.
As far as the classes go, students leave everything on. So as coaches we go through the bikes when we break for lunch and as we pack them up and make sure the valves and keys are off.
Won't be much harm from a leaky needle from sitting for 10 minutes while we set up the next exercise, but sitting for an hour+ is gonna be no good.