First, a bit of history.
I laid my 09 GS500F down about 3 years ago. It seemed to run fine after that, except the turn signal on the low side kept blowing out. I replaced it about 3 or 4 times in a short span. Shortly after that, I lost my job and, therefore, my health/life insurance. I decided it wasn't a good idea to keep riding while I had no health/life insurance. I got a job/health/life insurance about a year ago, but I haven't done anything to my bike since then. So, she's been sitting in the garage for over 2 years. The weather is starting to turn nice here, and I'm really wanting to get back out on the road. I know she is going to need some work before I can ride again. Unfortunately, I don't have a ton of extra money to spend. I called a few of the local repair shops to see how much they would charge to do it and they were all around $2k :icon_eek: I figure I can do most of the work myself and save myself quite a bit of money.
What all do you think I will need to do to get her up and running again? Anything I should add/subtract?
Here are my original thoughts:
New chain/sprockets
Rebuild carbs
New battery
Clean airbox and filter
Drain/clean/refill fuel tank
New oil/filter
New brake fluid/lines
New fork seals
Also, what do you think might be causing my turn signal to blow?
When you say the turn signal is bowing, you mean the bulb burns out constantly? If so, maybe try testing socket contacts with a multimeter and make sure the correct voltage/amperage is going to the light. Maybe you have a short somewhere in the signal housing
If your fork seals aren't leaking or badly cracked, I don't really see any reason to change them. As for your carbs, a good cleaning might suffice. No reason to rebuild them unless you experience issues that suggest that needs to be done. Also, inspect your sprockets, if they're not worn or damaged, they can probably stay too. A good cleaning from top to bottom and in all the nooks and crannies is probably a good idea as a starting point. Just my opinion on a few things that might save ya a few bucks. Could possibly hit any grease points as well. The other stuff seems like good solid ideas to do before getting her on the road after a 3 year sit. And check your tires good to make sure they didn't get hard or wear flat spots from sitting or have any dry rot. Good luck man, and keep us updated on your progress! By the way, is that ASU in your name from Arizona State or Appalachian State?
Maybe you're worrying too much about nothing Dave. Those jobs you listed are all easy, and there's no big cost in parts. (2 G's? Bollocks!!!) Apart from the fork seals and brakelines it's hardly a days work.
DIY. Just do what you know NEEDS to be done, for example the brakelines probably don't need replacing unless they were damaged in the accident. And how do you know you need new fork seals? Fork seals are easy to do once you've done the job before. First time might be a little challenging, but if you approach it logically, getting the right tools together it'll be fine.
I guess my main message is: Don't feel it all needs to be done in one go, it'll be much easier to do it in smaller 'bite-size' jobs.
And most of all, try not to think that it's a hassle, treat each job as an enjoyable learning experience, don't feel you have to rush it or spend heaps. :thumb:
(You have an electrical short in the turn signals circuit somewhere, you need a cheap multimeter, and a wiring diagram). Quite likely that a wire got scraped in the 'drop' and that it's shorting out to earth.
You'll get a world of support on here mate.
Quote from: SirHansford on October 12, 2016, 04:33:01 PM
If your fork seals aren't leaking or badly cracked, I don't really see any reason to change them.
They were leaking before I let it sit. I've changed them once before, but they started leaking shortly after changing them. I'm not sure why. It also was a pain in the *** to change them. Any hints?
Quote from: SirHansford on October 12, 2016, 04:33:01 PMAs for your carbs, a good cleaning might suffice. No reason to rebuild them unless you experience issues that suggest that needs to be done.
What issues would suggest they need to be rebuilt?
Quote from: SirHansford on October 12, 2016, 04:33:01 PMAlso, inspect your sprockets, if they're not worn or damaged, they can probably stay too.
I just always read you change the sprockets when you change the chain?
Quote from: SirHansford on October 12, 2016, 04:33:01 PMCould possibly hit any grease points as well.
Where are these grease points?
Quote from: SirHansford on October 12, 2016, 04:33:01 PMBy the way, is that ASU in your name from Arizona State or Appalachian State?
I'm a Sun Devil, baby! I went to Arizona State! (Name the movie)
Quote from: ASUDave on October 12, 2016, 02:39:53 PM
Here are my original thoughts:
New chain/sprockets
Rebuild carbs
New battery
Clean airbox and filter
Drain/clean/refill fuel tank
New oil/filter
New brake fluid/lines
New fork seals
You might want to do everything you mentioned at some point but if your goal is just to get on the road you're fine as long as you're SAFE.
Brakes, chain, oil, suspension, tires. Everything else is honestly trivial unless it affects reliability.
New chain is a good idea, especially if it's been sitting dry. But you might be able to run the old chain for a bit as long as no links are seized and you clean and oil it really good. If you decide you need a new chain new sprockets might not be necessary. It's proper to change chain and sprocket together because a worn sprocket will accelerate chain wear, but if the teeth aren't pointy or hooked you should be OK. If you want a second opinion post some pictures.
If you feel like your chain is OK be sure to check and adjust for slack.
For the carbs I'd at least take them down and clean them but unless it's running poorly a proper rebuild might not be necessary.
I've seen batteries fail extremely quickly and I've seen some miracle batteries last forever. If you can afford it just buy a new one but if you need to save a few bucks the old one might still work if you make sure it's charged.
Cleaning the air box and filter is basically free, so you can't go wrong with this.
Inspect the fuel tank. If it's not rusted really bad just toss the old fuel and fill her up.
Oil. Yes. Definitely. After you change the oil and filter it'd be a good idea to take some of what's left over and get it into the cylinders through the spark plug hole. You don't need much, if you have it use a syringe to squirt a little in. You don't want to fill the cylinders, you just need to get things a little wet in there.
If it's been sitting for 3 years the cylinder walls will be dry and you can really scratch them up before oil can get to them. Now take off the timing cover and turn the engine by hand, this will spread the oil you just put into the cylinders and will start the oil pump sending oil to the head which is also probably pretty dry.
These small steps go a long way in preserving an engine that has been sitting.
Brake fluid, yes. Check the lines for dry rot or cracks. If they're still solid and still flexible you don't need to change.
Fork seals only if they're leaking. If they're leaking its a potentially life threatening issue if the fork oil contaminates the front brake. Definitely do this or pay to have it done.
Definitely check the tires as well. They might look ok but if they're hard it could indicate dry rot internally. They could also have flat spots. If you need tires you can save money by removing/installing the wheels yourself and just having the tires mounted/balanced by a shop.
I just always read you change the sprockets when you change the chain?
It's usual to do that, but if the sproket isn't worn like in pointy or hooked as Watcher said, you can probably get by with just a chain if money is an issue.
Quote from: SirHansford on October 12, 2016, 04:33:01 PMCould possibly hit any grease points as well.
Where are these grease points?
I should have said lubrication points, I didn't mean actual grease points aka grease fittings like on a car. I was thinking clutch cable, throttle cable, suspension, pivot points yadda yadda along with a really good over all cleaning.
Quote from: SirHansford on October 12, 2016, 04:33:01 PMBy the way, is that ASU in your name from Arizona State or Appalachian State?
I'm a Sun Devil, baby! I went to Arizona State! (Name the movie)
[/quote]
Oh awesome :) I grew up in Mesa, (in the 80s). Love the valley though i'm sure it's changed a lot since then. I was curious if you meant ASU as in App state as well since I now live in NC about 20-25 minutes away from the college. Thought maybe I had found a close by "GS500 Buddy".
Quote from: SirHansford on October 13, 2016, 11:25:52 AM
Oh awesome :) I grew up in Mesa, (in the 80s). Love the valley though i'm sure it's changed a lot since then. I was curious if you meant ASU as in App state as well since I now live in NC about 20-25 minutes away from the college. Thought maybe I had found a close by "GS500 Buddy".
I live in Mesa, things have changed.
ASUDave are you still in the area? If yes, which shops did you contact?
Yep. I'm in Gilbert.
I tried a bunch and some I heard back from and some I didn't. I remember Turn Socket in Chandler was over $2K, 2 Guyes Garage was up there too. I can't remember the rest. RideNow is usually pretty expensive as is Apache, where I bought it.
Is there a shop in the East Valley that you prefer?
Feel like I should join the "party" since a lot of AZ people seem to be popping up. I'm in Tucson! Recently moved from Chicago.
Always looking for people to ride with and places to go. If there are enough people maybe we can do a GStwin-AZ meet up eventually. :cheers: