After taking the bike to the dealer, and speaking with a tech there, he was a bit unsure if he could have the fork properly fixed without having to replace every darn seal and clip and bushing.. :x
So I decided to do it myself. The bike is in the carport, on a piece of cardboard. Just have to sort out some rachets, and wrenches to get started. One thing I noticed was an allen-head bolt from the upper fork tube pinch was missing. :? . I'll try to get a replacement when i go to Home Depot to get the PVC Spacer.
Thanks to Kerry, pantablo, JohnLA and a few others for answering my questions, links to the $46 progressive springs and the archive of related posts.
I plan on attacking the lower hex-bolts as the first item of business.
Im also trying to take lots of pictures and include tool sizes for a complete write-up. Wish me luck!
BTW- how do you measure the correct level of fluid? With the forks on or off the bike and compressed or decompressed.. WITH the fork springs in or out??
Quote from: bluebiker3500I plan on attacking the lower hex-bolts as the first item of business.
Check out my $8.00 do-it-yourself tool for dealing with the lower hex bolt.
http://www.gstwins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7084Look at my second post, not the first as I no longer recommend the compressed fork with strap method.
Of course, if you have an air gun, you shouldn't need this tool.
Quote from: bluebiker3500BTW- how do you measure the correct level of fluid? With the forks on or off the bike and compressed or decompressed.. WITH the fork springs in or out??
I
think you measure fully compressed, off the bike, with the springs out. But I've never done it, and my manuals are at home.
Hold out for more trustworthy info....
Quote from: KerryQuote from: bluebiker3500BTW- how do you measure the correct level of fluid? With the forks on or off the bike and compressed or decompressed.. WITH the fork springs in or out??
I think you measure fully compressed, off the bike, with the springs out. But I've never done it, and my manuals are at home.
Hold out for more trustworthy info....
You are correct, sir. (Just did it a couple weeks ago.)
Hey whats up?? someone else from Vancouver. Right on.
Micah
3 hours into the project. Taking pics and writing at the same time.
Thanks again for the replies. Its going rather smoothly, following the clymer manual and using common sense. Its a lot easier than I thought. The lower hex bolt DID bite me on the right hand side, but I found it was much easier to break loose the one on the left while the forks were still mounted. (I have to borrow a 8 mm allen bit on a 1/2" drive and whack it with the impact wrench. )
I'm just taking my time, dont want the parts or paint scratched.. I DID notice the fork on the right side is scratched up with about 6-7 scratches. This was the side that was leaking oil. (Appears as though someone had vise-grips on the damn thing.. there is a bike-repair shop thing next to my friends workshop.. I'll take it there and see if they deem it fixable or not.. ) Im thinking if i can sand it with 1500- 2000 grit sandpaper to take out the ridges.. or maybe clean the scars and solder some lead in there then sand it to match? :dunno:
I am about to go to Home Depot to get the PVC spacer, pvc seal-driver, and the missing pinch bolt. Man those stock springs are tiny!
Took over 30 pics already on the process with tool sizes on every fastner.
Most likely I'll be finished tomorrow though..
Quote from: bluebiker3500I DID notice the fork on the right side is scratched up with about 6-7 scratches. [...] Im thinking if i can sand it with 1500- 2000 grit sandpaper to take out the ridges.. or maybe clean the scars and solder some lead in there then sand it to match?
Not sure how close this is to what you're seeing with your scratches/ridges, but....
For the picture below I "cleaned" the area around a ding that I got in my left fork (thanks to a certain cow) 23,000 miles ago. It's one of the things that I
didn't have the shop replace - because of the price of a new fork tube, and because the ding was too high to affect the fork seals.
And before anybody says it, YES the bike needs a bath!

p=59516#59516
Just a thought if your seals are not leaking you might want to check out pablo's site for the installing for k springs the easy way. It took me ten min and everythin works great.
make sure that you fix the tubes before sliding on the new seals, if not, it could tear/cut the new seals and you'll be doing it again in no time.
I took it to the bike shop and they recommended to replace it. Also referred me to http://www.frankmain.qpg.com/ for a replacement. This is going to bite big time since I dont have an income.. great. :x
Im sure if I had the dealer do it, they would replace the fork and leave me with the bill ...
I'll scour ebay and the FS Forums.
Btw - I found the measurement of the missing bolt - M8X1.25 x 30 mm
Too bad Lowes was out of it and Home Depot was closed.
Quote from: DragonflyHey whats up?? someone else from Vancouver. Right on.
Micah
Hey!
Been testing any more bikes? I'm looking real hard at a Falco right now, took one for a spin last Friday. Very nice! Expensive.
Kind of be a shame to get rid of the GS after I fixed the suspension & put new tires on, tho.
Darren
Yea, I rode the Sv1000 last Saturday, and as soon as there is another good day, I am going to ride the Fz1. That should be a hell of an experience.
Update- I finished the left fork. Cant believe how hard the progressive is! I could compress the *busted* fork all the way, but after sealing up the one with the progrssive spring, I could compress it all of 1-1.5 inches (off the bike)
Called around the dealers and found the price of the inner fork tube around $181. :o I also learned www.powersportspro.com has a VERY good parts catalog (OEM) I guess thats the silver lining? :lol:
I have to pick up a copy of cycle trader and check the back pages for the places that sell salvage parts.
Also are there any other forks tubes that can work? The katana?