Alright....I've taken enough things apart, it's time to start putting back together. For those that haven't followed, there is an intro here: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=71298.0 (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=71298.0)
Basically, bought a GS500F that had been lightly converted. This is what it looked like when I got it:
(http://i68.tinypic.com/fnv72x.jpg)
A bit about the goal... I want a fun bike to take to ride on the streets and take to the track as I learn to push my riding to the limit of the bike, then I will upgrade to the SV650 that's sitting in the corner, and my Girlfriend will be able to hop from the 250 onto the 500 once she's comfortable on the small bike. So to that end, my modifications will try and meet at least one of three goals; tailor the bike to me, tailor the bike to the track, and drop weight wherever possible.
I have taken a giant step and halved the weight of the bike in one fell swoop, as seen below;
(https://s17.postimg.org/uvtbdw4i7/20170217_185710.jpg)
:D
Alright. Any way, I started stripping things down and off, and I just kept finding more and more excuses to keep pulling things apart. I originally went after the carbs to check jetting, then decided to upgrade suspension, yada yada yada.
Anyway, I've basically been hoarding parts since I bought the bike, and I'm ALMOST ready to get going back together.
Here is what I have so far:
(https://s28.postimg.org/cikvaf9yl/20170217_185129.jpg)
Not pictured but also going in are:
Bikemaster Superbike Bars
Shorai 1.39 pound Lithium battery
There are a couple things that are still in the mail that I am waiting on. They are as follows:
Suzuki OEM GS500 front preload adjusters
AllBalls Steering Bearings
Amsoil 10w-40 Metric Motorcycle Oil
Replacement OEM Chain adjusters
Feeler Gauge/Shim tool for valve adjustment
Finally, I still have a couple things that I haven't purchased yet:
Jets
Engine guards
TIRES, OH DEAR SWEET JEEBUS WHY IS IT SO HARD TO DECIDE ON A TIRE?!?!?! :2guns:
Spare keys
Bike is going to stay naked because A)I like it that way B)it weighs less C)the stock fairings are absurdly expensive when you can find them unscathed.
Happy to answer questions. Will be posting more as I work through this, and will be aiming to be on the road by the end of April with first track day in June.
I'm in Northern New England, if anybody is in the area and wants to meet/wrench/ride/hit the track.
Thanks for reading.
- SQ
O0
Looking forward to your build! :D
Quote from: gianzilla on February 18, 2017, 05:36:01 PM
Looking forward to your build! :D
Haha me too. I'll throw a couple specs out there:
The sonic springs are .95/kg and going in with 15w Maxima Fork oil.
Front sprocket is Renthal Superlight Steel 15t
Rear is Vortex Aluminum 40t
Rear shock is kat750
Bar ends are DR650
Rider weight atm is 230 before gear. Should be down another 10 by the season and down ANOTHER 10 by first track day.
I got the same kat750 rear shock but I haven't bolt it on yet.
I heard it will raise the tail up a couple inches. >:(
The research I did said that if you have the rear end properly adjusted in the first place, it doesn't lift the rear end. I can't comment though, as my bike is still currently levitating with no wheels. Also, mine went up anyway since I went back to the stock position on the lowering links.
Quote from: Suzi Q on February 20, 2017, 06:27:22 PM
The research I did said that if you have the rear end properly adjusted in the first place, it doesn't lift the rear end. I can't comment though, as my bike is still currently levitating with no wheels. Also, mine went up anyway since I went back to the stock position on the lowering links.
I see. I will see how your build turns out. I am still deciding if I should sell my GS at the upcoming season..haha
Okay. Overwatch has swallowed my evenings as of late while I wait for customs to release my preload adjusters, but I should be back to work on it this weekend.
Anybody tire recommendations for 80/20 street?
Got these in the mail direct from Japan. They are $50.12 each, plus shipping. My total was $113 and it took 12 calendar days from beginning the ordering process to having parts in hand.
(https://s9.postimg.org/x4bt5d6db/20170224_081924.jpg)
Quote from: Suzi Q on February 23, 2017, 09:35:14 AM
Okay. Overwatch has swallowed my evenings as of late while I wait for customs to release my preload adjusters, but I should be back to work on it this weekend.
Anybody tire recommendations for 80/20 street?
Whats youre battlenet? Im trying to make it out of diamond next season and i need some reliable team mates..
Honestly, I just started playing. Came over from Destiny, and I'm grinding my way to 25 with 76 to get situated for the new season. A buddy of mine plays hardcore though...he's prestiged and whatnot. We're on PS4...PM your gamertag if you are as well.
oh... you're filthy console players. lol. But good luck! I probably even shouldn't play considering all the work it will prevent me from getting done.
Quote from: TheGreenWeenie on February 25, 2017, 05:18:14 PM
oh... you're filthy console players. lol. But good luck! I probably even shouldn't play considering all the work it will prevent me from getting done.
PC Master Race here. PM me your battle.net ID lol.
Note: I'm about a gold-level player, Ana main but I can play whatever the team needs.
Went with ps4 because;
A)that's what my friends have
B)computer gaming is so much more expensive
That being said, I've got an MSI x99 mobo sitting next to me in a full size tower just begging to be built. I don't PC though...linux exclusively.
suzi, did you remove your grab bar? or do you not have one?
Gone when I bought the bike, and no intentions to replace. You're the second person to ask that...what's the deal with the grab bar?
Quick question regarding forks;
Is there any reason at all that i should NOT swap for the first gen forks?
Reasons I'm swapping:
My 04 forks need a $20 adapter to run the emulators that the gen1's do not need
My 04 forks have a smooth bore damping rod, making it f*$5ing IMPOSSIBLE to remove. There is no hex head on top that will work with the special tool, and it took me 3 hours to get the broom back and it's no closer to being out.
So, in conclusion, it occurs to me that the gen1 front forks are considerably more serviceable. Anybody have any cons to the swap?
Thanks,
sq
Quote from: Suzi Q on February 26, 2017, 03:52:02 PM
Quick question regarding forks;
Is there any reason at all that i should NOT swap for the first gen forks?
Reasons I'm swapping:
My 04 forks need a $20 adapter to run the emulators that the gen1's do not need
My 04 forks have a smooth bore damping rod, making it f*$5ing IMPOSSIBLE to remove. There is no hex head on top that will work with the special tool, and it took me 3 hours to get the broom back and it's no closer to being out.
So, in conclusion, it occurs to me that the gen1 front forks are considerably more serviceable. Anybody have any cons to the swap?
Thanks,
sq
as long as you replace the forks in their entiriety you should have no issues. I have a'97 front end on my '05 and have no problems.
Quote from: Suzi Q on February 25, 2017, 09:29:46 PM
Went with ps4 because;
A)that's what my friends have
B)computer gaming is so much more expensive
That being said, I've got an MSI x99 mobo sitting next to me in a full size tower just begging to be built. I don't PC though...linux exclusively.
PC gaming has a high cost of entry, but is actually cheaper over time, since you can just upgrade single components, which is significantly less expensive than buying a new console. Plus steam sales usually mean the games themselves end up being cheaper too.
Quote from: Suzi Q on February 26, 2017, 07:18:32 AM
Gone when I bought the bike, and no intentions to replace. You're the second person to ask that...what's the deal with the grab bar?
I just have one, nobody seems to want. lol guess GS grab bars just aren't in demand.
Quote from: qcbaker on February 26, 2017, 04:12:28 PM
as long as you replace the forks in their entiriety you should have no issues.
You just mean the tube, right? Should be fine to use triple trees that i have?
Thanks for the speedy response.
Quote from: Suzi Q on February 26, 2017, 05:14:39 PM
Quote from: qcbaker on February 26, 2017, 04:12:28 PM
as long as you replace the forks in their entiriety you should have no issues.
You just mean the tube, right? Should be fine to use triple trees that i have?
Thanks for the speedy response.
Yeah, the inner fork tubes' outer diameter is the same for all years, as far as I know. The top clamp of my triple is stock 05, but the steering stem and bottom clamp are '97. It all fits together fine.
awesome man, thanks. I've got two PM's out to members on fs threads.
A 2001 fork tube would have the old style damping rods, correct?
Yes, I had an 02.
Thanks Jack!
Out of town for a little over a week for work (headed to Cali) but, in the meantime, the following things should be waiting for me when I return:
Front end from an '01
S20 Evo f&r
Renntech crash bars
the long lost friggin' valve tool!
And also the lockset for the SV, but that's for a different forum
Catch you guys in a week!
For anybody having trouble with the 2nd gen front end, quit playing around and swap to the earlier. It took me 10 mins to get the damping rods out and I did it with hand tools. :technical:
My '04 has a radiator on the front but I can't find the cap and it's slam full of oil. :dunno_black:
Quote from: Suzi Q on March 19, 2017, 04:57:27 PM
My '04 has a radiator on the front but I can't find the cap and it's slam full of oil. :dunno_black:
Is that not an oil cooler?
Chris
O0
Yep. Just curious if anybody reads this. :woohoo:
Yeah I do. I don't comment very much, but I love an update. Also if you stick a picture in Showbiz will be on it like Sonic ;)
Chris
O0
LOL I spend waaaaaay too much time on this forum, I admit :embarrassed:
It's really easy to just leave it open on my computer when I'm at work!!
:D you guys crack me up. I should be updating more and more soon...been out of town but things are starting to come together. Thanks for following
So these came in today. Got them super cheap, although I need to blast them and re-coat.
(https://s12.postimg.org/61fgsc6f1/engineguards.jpg)
(https://s15.postimg.org/fwchtt9ij/20170402_191115.jpg)
So I started putting the bike back together in prep for the season, and I've encountered an issue. The adjustable fork caps hit the superbike bars (and the stock bars, for that matter.) I'm guessing that the bikes that these came on came with the clip-ons...debating now between switching to clip ons or adding a 2" riser.
(https://s8.postimg.org/l3k2jwket/clearance.jpg)
Generic 30mm riser blocks on the way. $16 on ebay. :2guns:
Super late from work this evening, but I did use the headlights on my car to slap the risers on real quick and make sure they were going to fit. They are definitely tall enough to clear the adjustable fork caps. This does move the riding position upright just a bit, but I'm not too concerned as I will be machining my own rearsets and can adjust a bit for comfort. I'm also not super worried about having the aggressive riding position on this bike either, since I will immediately start building up the SV650 once this is on the road. In the meantime, I'm going to leisurely track down a shorter spacer (the one pictured is 30mm) as well as some clubman bars and the '89 factory clip on bits to tinker around with riding position at a later date. The liesurely new mid-mains are in at the LMS and will be collected tomorrow, and the last bit is a tank petcock from a donor a yamaha, which is also slated to arrive tomorrow. Should be hauling *** on this thing by next weekend. :woohoo:
(http://i63.tinypic.com/90nghg.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/65u26s.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/288nyfd.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2wf0h8k.jpg)
sweetness going on in here and didn't even know,.....sub'd
Thanks, CBR!
In an attempt to answer the question regarding how much the 750 raises the rear end, I measured it as shown below. I did not take a stock measurement, but hopefully this will give you an idea in your own research. If there are any more measurements that may help, let me know. At first, I was disappointed, but then I realized that I had put the lower bolt in the "lowered" position on the lowering links. Once I put it back to stock, it was much mo' bettah. I can still flat foot it at 5 11 though.
(http://i67.tinypic.com/6r56pg.jpg)
Also, I installed the risers/bars where they will actually ride. The bars curve right at the outer edge of the clamp (stock and riser) so there is a gap. Not sure how happy I am with it. May look at the clubmans as an option, or something with a little wider mid section. Curious to hear from ShowBiz as to her experience with the superbike bars on the stock pads.
(http://i65.tinypic.com/66ades.jpg)
(http://i67.tinypic.com/95rg9d.jpg)
Whatchoo want my input on Suzi Q ? My superbike bars and what?
Thanks for stopping by! The mid section of the bars start the bend inside of the clamp, so the bars don't settle down into the groove. You can see it in the pics I took with the spacers, but I checked in the stock config and have the same gap. You haz?
Baaaahhhh I can't see the pics cuz the work computers sometimes don't like to display them :technical:
And I'm always lurking ;) Probably too much lol !!
But anyway, based on your written description I think I know what you mean. I dug through my pics here that I have access to and this is the best one I found that shows my bars and how they sit.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18010268_10155302188933278_1195569878694432156_n.jpg?oh=1687cfe737278a4bd0db99bc7458771d&oe=5987642C)
Yeah I can't tell from that angle, but yours look like they sit better. When you get the chance, can you check my pics and compare? TY!
I most certainly will :thumb: I'll be clockin' out at midnight :icon_mrgreen:
It looks like I do not haz the same gap :dunno_black: That is so strange!!
(http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i312/HeavyMetalMopars/P4200002.jpg)
I also have the superbike bars and do not have this gap. Maybe it has something to do with the risers?
I is confused. I still have the gap when I take the risers out and bolt to stock mounts.
Are you 100% sure the bars are centered on the mounts? If so... :dunno_black:
Yup. No matter how I shift 'em, the pictured gap is the smallest it gets. Move to one side or the other and it gets worse on one side or the other. Would one of you mind terribly measuring your bars from outermost to outermost, and again on the mid section from where the first hint of bend begins on either side?
I can do it for ya in a couple hours when I get home from work if qc doesn't beat me to it !!
You want the overall width of the bars and then how long the middle section stays straight, right ?
Okay third edit lol... I measured the total width of the bars from end to end to be 29" and the straight part in the middle to be 4 3/4"
Ty! Will measure when i get home to compare
After looking at your pics, it looks to me like the recesses in the bar risers you have a are slightly too narrow. Are you 100% you ordered bar risers for 7/8" bars?
Yes, they are for 7/8. You can't see it in the pic, but there is no gap at all on the inside of the riders, just the outside. Also, When I remove the risers completely and bolt into the stock clamps, I still have a gap. Starting to wonder about the bars themselves, but the measurements seem to be the same as what ShowBiz posted.
Anywho, bike is back on hold again anyway. Got back from MSF class on Sunday and decided to tinker...the other side of the carb had some stripped screws that involved a dremel to remove, and I subsequently found....stock jets in that side. My guess is that one of the PO's drilled the holes in the exhaust and then attempted to rejet to accommodate, but stripped out screws...i dunno. For WHATEVER reason, I had a stock 17.5 pilot in the one side, and a 20 in the other so, after checking with both local shops and coming up empty, I PM'd Buddha and he's dropped a second 20 in the mail. Should be here in the next day or two. I'll go back to looking at the riser/bar fiasco at that time.
- sq
No jets, so I thought I'd be sneaky and pull the pilots out of the SV...couldn't find info online but, in my head, it made sense that they might be a little bigger than the 500's. No such luck, though. SV has 15 pilots. No sweat, though....I needed to pull the rack any way to clean the fuel system so that she'll run again, and it's 70 outside, so I was finally able to blast all that road salt off from when I picked it up. Pics below.
As for the 500, I picked up some cheap dollar store hairspray and got the grips on. My shorty levers from ebay are drilled backwards, so I've DM'd the dude to see about getting that squared away. They were supposed to fit the GS. C'est la vie. Hope everyone is having a more productive weekend than I am!
Gunky SV carb:
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2la4sok.jpg)
Clean[er] SV650
(http://i66.tinypic.com/2rde0sg.jpg)
Jet arrived. Now waiting on new carb bowl gaskets. Didn't realize they were hard, flattened and shot. In the meantime, I'm working on cleaning up the exhaust, albeit slowly. Chewing up bits like mad. Here's a "before" on one side and a "partway done" on the other. Enjoy
(http://i64.tinypic.com/hrmskl.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/ejy4hc.jpg)
Finally had a chance to bust out the bigger tools and get through the grinding. On to polishing from here as I have time.
(http://i68.tinypic.com/i5bsk6.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/xprck2.jpg)
How 'bout some updates?
Quick comment regarding the throttle position sensor on 04+ bikes; if you are using Haynes manual 3238, it states on page 4.6 under diagram 7.8 that the resistance across the 1st and 3rd terminals (meter 1) should be 76% of the resistance between the first and second (meter 2) terminals. This is a misprint. Meter 2 should be 76% of meter 1 with the throttle wide open, as described in paragraph 8 on the same page.
So...this happened:
(http://i64.tinypic.com/xm1q1y.jpg)
Carbs on and tight, screws adjusted, exhaust on, iridiums installed, lunchbox on....methinks I just need to add gas and she'll run. Outstanding worklist at this point includes:
Need a filter for the crank case ventilation
Still need to tighten up the front end and mount headlight. (alignment is a bit daunting)
tail lights need proper wiring in lieu of hackjob
le' crankcase has no oil.
engine guards need to be blasted/primed/painted/installed
Vacuum plug for deleted frame petcock
Pin the axles
Retorque errrayyyythang
Still running factory pegs. Need to fab up some rearsets
There are no brake lines installed at the moment, which is a bit of a minor inconvenience.
Here's some more on the kat750 shock; I figured out where I'm going to mount the reservoir! I originally thought that I was going to drill a hole in the fairing to allow for easy adjustment, but it turns out that by cutting off the left side helmet hook, the reservoir will mount in such a way that A)the fairing needs no modification, and B)adjustment is possible simply by removing the seat. Score! (zip ties are temporary)
Hose routing:
(http://i65.tinypic.com/11tsmcz.jpg)
Top looking down:
(http://i68.tinypic.com/n69hz4.jpg)
Access:
(http://i67.tinypic.com/28w00hi.jpg)
Cool to see you making progress! :thumb:
So I inadvertently got the bike running today...I didn't really intend to, as I have many other more pressing matters, but it just seemed to go together one thing after the next. Here's a video link with the exhaust note of the drilled tail cap:
https://eroshare.com/w6dfq5gi (https://eroshare.com/w6dfq5gi)
I also tightened up the front end, [obviously] routed all the fuel lines, and installed the front brakes.
For those of you that have done the lunchbox conversion, there is a flexible "T" between the carbs that appears to be labeled "air vent" in my owner's manual. What do you do with this T after the conversion? Where was it hooked up when I took it apart?
Coincidentally, I can tell you that if you hook the fuel line up to this flexible T and turn the gas on, it makes it really easy to find the ACTUAL fuel supply T, as that is where the fuel will start dumping out of the carb rack. :icon_lol:
In other news, oil leak from one of the cylinder head bolts. (front left) I'm not used to crush washers there, so I never even thought to inspect them. I guess I'll have to break down the top end again and retorque the head when they arrive. Since I'm going through the trouble and had to pay shipping anyway, I went ahead and picked up a replacement cover gasket as well. As for the air vent T, and help is appreciated. Regarding the crank case ventilator hose, what do you guys favor when using the lunchbox? I'm currently running a clamped coffee filter.
Thanks for the tips/info/interaction.
(https://s30.postimg.org/frzc46pxd/bikes2.jpg)
(https://s21.postimg.org/6fx0knw1z/bikes.jpg)
Maiden voyage. Something is wrong...can anybody spot it?
Missing rear grab bar? Lol.
As for "air vent" flexible T on the carbs, that's the carb breather and there is normally a hose attached to it. I'm pretty sure that before you removed the airbox, the breather hose is routed above and behind it so that air doesn't force itself in there at speed. Though I'm not really sure where you can put it now that the airbox is gone ... :dunno_black:
Haha I don't understand the fixation on the grab bar. My shift lever is missing in action. :whisper: Rode home in 4th.
Thanks for the info on the T.
Put a stock shift lever back on there, so she's rideable now. I also named her; she's Ramona.
Additionally, I picked this guy up as the base for my rearset conversion. Have some aluminum at the shop and will get to work shaping them soon.
(https://s15.postimg.org/sx7hofy57/shifter.jpg)
Cool stuff Suzi!! Been following along :thumb:
Thanks, ShowBiz! Glad to hear you've settled on a paint scheme. I just learned how to do gel-coat and lay up glass properly, albeit for boats.
The shifter pictured is for a '91 to '93 GSX1100, although I can't much imagine it matters what Suzuki you get parts from. I will need to extend the rod between the lever and the arm, and I'll be switching to 1 up pattern on the swap.
Showbiz shot me a message asking for sauce on the preload adjusters, so I'm throwing it out here for anybody else that may be interested.
QuoteAlright, so I ordered them direct from Japan. I was nervous as first because you pay the company, then they order them direct from factory, and then they bill you again for shipping when they go out, but it was legit. I paid for the "air mail," and I don't remember off hand how long it took to get them, but it wasn't terrible IIRC. I did some digging around back then and this was the cheapest I could find, but YMMV. Details:
Part Number: 51351-01D60
Total cost with airmail and shipping: $112.69 for the pair (Feb 2017)
Link: https://www.parts-sale.jp/SUZUKI%2051351-01D60?search=51351-01D60
Are you talking about something similar to this?
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=70732.0
With some modification, you can get a set for $20-30
My (older model) fork caps looked different than the top ones in that pic you shared Endo (to answer that question finally lol!)
I've been looking around and I did find some cheap ones (preload adjuster caps/bolts) on ebay that were listed to work with the GS500 but sadly they do not. The threads are too big. After sending the seller pictures of the problem as proof, they did refund my money today so yay for that!
I have older fork caps... I'm at work can't read past 4 post up, with new rubber/plastic "toppers" "Caps"
if someone needs them.
or you can modify them and thread your own adjusters? and if they fail than its no biggie you have your old ones.
I tried ebay with the same results as showbiz. As to modifying one from a different bike...I don't want to be the one riding when that fails. Have fun though!
I've ridden my modified ones for 1.5 years without any problems. Fork feels good, no leakage out the top.
As long as you have a good 3/4" of threaded section locking things in, it's hard for me to imagine that cap popping off.
To each their own.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23415162
Hey Suzi Q, great thread so far, I also have the superbike bars waiting to be installed. Did you drill a hole for the controls or file them off? I'm debating on what route I want to take on this being my first bike and first handle bar swap.
Showbiz, what about you?
Thanks in advance
Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk
Quote from: Forbsey on April 10, 2018, 04:07:38 AM
...
I also have the superbike bars waiting to be installed. Did you drill a hole for the controls or file them off? I'm debating on what route I want to take on this being my first bike and first handle bar swap.
...
I filed the little nub on the controls down. I haven't had any issues with my controls rotating.
Quote from: qcbaker on April 10, 2018, 06:00:09 AM
Quote from: Forbsey on April 10, 2018, 04:07:38 AM
...
I also have the superbike bars waiting to be installed. Did you drill a hole for the controls or file them off? I'm debating on what route I want to take on this being my first bike and first handle bar swap.
...
I filed the little nub on the controls down. I haven't had any issues with my controls rotating.
Did you put any electrical tape or anything on the bar?
Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk
Quote from: Forbsey on April 10, 2018, 06:50:47 AM
Did you put any electrical tape or anything on the bar?
Like I said, I haven't had any issues with the controls moving around, so no. But, that's what I would do if I did have that problem.
Quote from: qcbaker on April 10, 2018, 09:59:43 AM
Quote from: Forbsey on April 10, 2018, 06:50:47 AM
Did you put any electrical tape or anything on the bar?
Like I said, I haven't had any issues with the controls moving around, so no. But, that's what I would do if I did have that problem.
Perfect, I might give this a go today 🍻
Sent from my SM-G955W using Tapatalk
In my case, it's been sooooo long (and many many many beers ago) since those bars went on that I can't remember what I did lol!