January this year I bought this 'fine' example of a '98 GS in Red. Apparently it was bought new in France and rehomed in the UK straight away. Desperation indeed...
(https://s11.postimg.org/aczfmpijz/Jan.png) (https://postimg.org/image/aczfmpijz/)
In nearly 20 years no one has bought it a RHD headlamp...
(https://s11.postimg.org/y1exhzf3j/lamp.png) (https://postimg.org/image/y1exhzf3j/)
which looks really good* and doesn't at all make night-riding blinder than it could be.
Only obvious signs of woe when I bought it was a leaky left front and rotten rear brake-reservoir screws. Was priced to clear and had a 11 months of MOT so I thought why not? Went out in early February for first motorbike ride in a few years at a tropical 0 (zero) degrees Celsius, repeatedly locked the back wheel (more on this) but generally had an ok time. Got very cold. Then came storm Doris (http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/barometer/uk-storm-centre/storm-doris) but no one told me.
(https://s11.postimg.org/rl1de5h67/gouge.png) (https://postimg.org/image/rl1de5h67/)
So the bike blew over and gouged up a cover and traumatised a horrible bar-end and lever. Oh well, nothing worse seemed to happen. Moved the bike to a better location.
After that I tried to work out why the back brake was exceptionally strong and even working overtime when I wasn't even pressing the brake lever (the scorch from grabbing the rear disc did eventually heal)... turned out the torque bar was a bit sketchy (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=71520.msg859965#msg859965) and giving that a refit and replacing the pads sorted that, rear brakes are a bit marginal now but the rear wheel spins freely so I'm happy.
By now its March / April time and riding around is alright
(https://s11.postimg.org/d5sn6qiwf/seabike.png) (https://postimg.org/image/d5sn6qiwf/)
So I thought I'd address the still leaky front fork. This (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=71606.msg861445#msg861445). The good news is the front end is a lot better and a lot more taught. The bad news is that the leaky fork is slightly leaky again, there were, and are, some screwdriver shaped gouges where the seal sits in the receiver which I expect contribute to this.
And now its July and with quite a few miles done I think I know what I want to get sorted so I thought I'd keep track of the progress.
The Good (and/or marginal):
* Engine pulls well, happy to pull from 3k in any gear, happy to pull a lot harder from 6k through to 10k
* Idles at a steady enough 1400rpm once warm
* Has a fairly good MOT history, nothing beyond consumables.
* Does between 50 and 70 mpg (4.54 litres in those there gallons)
* At some point its lunched its electrics (RR i'm told) which has been replaced and rewired (but without much enthusiasm)
The Bad:
* There is nearly no service history, what there is and how its been addressed isn't very reassuring
* I'm its 15th registered owner, again, no history :o
* LH cylinder looks like its thinking hard about blowing its gasket
* The wrong-hand drive headlamp
* Repeat offender fork leg
The Ugly:
* Pockmarked with rust, all surface deep and all an eyesore
* What is going on with those levers and bar ends ?!
* The seat
* The dials
* Pre-96 front caliper (best not to know why, I suppose)
* Mullered clutch-safety switch
* Indicators. the originals were nasty but fake-carbon fibre?
So, the To-Do List!
Since the oil is fairly clean and its keeping its brake fluid in the lines and all the electrics work I'm starting on the notion its mostly, but not more than that, okay. I can't feel any draft from the manky looking LHS Head -> Barrel join but something isn't quite right there. The valves need looking at since its weeping from the half-moon sections anyway and a bit chattery too but I suspect that's a precursor to a top-end rebuild in any case.
(https://s11.postimg.org/6cnowq2pb/image.png) (https://postimg.org/image/6cnowq2pb/)
I'm tempted to have the frame and swing arm powder coated black or matt gunmetal, it's a bit crusty and could do with a sandblast and re-skin but we'll see. Maybe over the winter I'll set about stripping the frame down and getting this done but its an embarrassment seeing that the rest of your bikes have perfect shiny/happy frames and mine looks like it was dredged out the sea...
Those cranes in the background of the 'blue sky' image? They are from Felixstowe docks, a bit up the road, and 6th busississiest (According to Wikipedia) in Europe, and all those 'easy-on-the-road' lorries mean the A-Roads are pretty grim. Except the bits that are concrete, and they are such a pleasure to ride on that I'm looking at an R6 shock swap for the GS unit to soak that 'smoothness' up a bit more, waiting on the right part to come up on eBay.
The plugs seem to be about the right colour and there is no bogging down through the throttle range so I'm going to leave the carbs alone for the time being. I'm toying with the idea of a K&N filter replacement but since the exhaust, a disgustingly rusty 'stainless' Nexxus creation needs redoing I might save the joy of rejetting all that for when I'm long dead...
So that's the project; light resto, maybe some gentle customisation and fair bit of anti-negligencing the last 20 years.
* By good I mean awful. honestly, 20 years!
Notification on friday from black widow they'd made some more exhausts. On the door mat on saturday. Checked the header bolts, all rusted and shot so picked up a set of irwin bolt removers.
(https://s23.postimg.org/bbd9q40fr/newzorst.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/bbd9q40fr/)
Rest of saturday spent on other stuff. Sunday! Set of brake pads for the front, exhaust system for the back surely only an hours work at most. Front brakes fitted without fuss, old ones weren't bad just not particularly good either so uprated to HH ones. These were EBC FA129HHs since my caliper is wrong for the year
(https://s23.postimg.org/u2f709v07/newpads.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/u2f709v07/)
Having already checked the header bolts weren't going to undo with an allan wrench I tapped on a bolt-remover, very tenatively started on off-side top. Seized; Not surprised. Applied a load more plus-gas (been applying plusgas every so often to all 4 for a few weeks now in anticipation). Slightest movement in it, expecting it to snap, kept going, eventually (20 minutes) it came out in one piece!
(https://s23.postimg.org/dwnfrdf7b/goodbolt.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/dwnfrdf7b/)
You are of course expecting this is going to be Perfect 4-for-4 then yes?
Access is bad for the inner ones so I removed the front forks / wheel. Rest of it looks like this
(https://s23.postimg.org/nrekxlj5j/removefront.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/nrekxlj5j/)
You can see here where the Nexxus system doesn't really fit properly and rubs in the center stand.
(https://s23.postimg.org/ih9m6aywn/nofront.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ih9m6aywn/)
Applied some more plusgas, borrowed a thin 3/8th extension to fit the bolt-remover and clear the frame a little easier and got to work accomplishing the following resounding failures
- off-side lower bolt, snapped almost straight away, at the bolthead leaving plenty of bolt sticking out
- near-side top, teased for a while by behaving like its counterpart on the other side before shearing off about 3mm proud of the head
- near-side bottom, teased by coming out a good 1mm before snapping off a little down the bolthead leaving some free
(https://s23.postimg.org/d0mcy6g53/dismalfailure.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/d0mcy6g53/)
Oh and the exhaust bolt at the back is stuck pretty firm too. But I'll sort that out in a bit because I can always hacksaw that off in a rage.
So left with an unridable bike and I'm pretty certain that the near-side top bolt is definately not going to come loose without a trip off to the machine shop. All in all 3/10.
Not sure about the remnant stub of those bolts. If access was better drilling them out might be possible but I pretty sure there isn't a hope of getting it in straight without pulling the head. Might give the 2 that didn't snap so close a go with some vice-grips to see if they are more inclined to come out now but I may be leaving this one to a shop with better equipment.
It doesn't seem like the best idea to have not used studs on this arrangement?
Anyway, thats progress for this weekend: turned a bike into a doorstop.
Thought I'd complete the weekend by removing the exhaust completely. The bolt holding the system on at the back just sheared off. Imagine That...
Anyway, one Nexxus can of unknown age. I was going to put this up for free in case someone wanted to try and tidy it up but I think i might just not.
Can end with hole
(https://s14.postimg.org/4kd6mgpel/rot2.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/4kd6mgpel/)
Join
(https://s14.postimg.org/de433kcd9/rot1.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/de433kcd9/)
This is the worst of the broken bolt remnants - the other two are about twice as long.
(https://s14.postimg.org/93pf7z7a5/lhs-misery.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/93pf7z7a5/)
I do like the look of the bike without an exhaust on the right-hand side though?
(https://s9.postimg.org/etj7buiej/bikenozst.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/etj7buiej/)
Very much enjoying your thread Toby :D
Super awful about those bolts!! >:( I agree with ya about studs... I recently did that swap.
That can is terrible!!! Your GS is gonna look super sharp with the new BW system :cool:
More than a bit embarrassed to have posted that exhaust in that state...
I think there is enough thread on those bits to possibly enact a rescue, talking to a chap later about possible solutions before the machine shop route.
Header bolts still seized after a week of gentle heating and plusgas. Tried a bolt remover tool, half of it snapped then rounded off the bolt. the sheared off another one.
(https://s9.postimg.org/gfb77p56j/even_more_haggard_bolts.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/gfb77p56j/)
Found a machine shop a bit down the road who are happy to do the work, drill out the old bolts, tap in some helicoils, should be better than new. Price on inspection. Oh well, best get started pulling the top end. Tank off, airbox out, carbs disconnected, cables uncoupled, and of course, the front-most valve cover bolt is jammed...
(https://s9.postimg.org/gtcj7apa3/missing_bits.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/gtcj7apa3/)
Tank in ok condition, bit crusty but nothing too bad.
(https://s9.postimg.org/a5fxkp5rv/tank_rust.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/a5fxkp5rv/)
Anyway, I'll have a think about that front bolt, although its off to a machine shop anyway I'd rather it would just let since I have no idea how long it would take to grind that off. The hex slot hasn't rounded off but I'm concerned about more leverage. Access i alsos terrible. Will have to price up the gaskets too - uneconomical repair is going through my mind a bit at the moment...
Have you thought about rust neutralizer for the tank? Also, can you take the whole engine to the machine shop--would save your having to take apart the top end.
Its an engine out job, that front valve-cover bolt is stuck solid. Which sadly says no one has looked at the valve clearances for 100 years so I think pulling the lump, drilling the head off the valve bolt (it may as well get a helicoil too!) and having the holes sorted at the machine shop + rehoned (saves me bollarding it up) then I can redo the gaskets and rings and get the valves all nice + a clean up on the block and top-end. Its that or just change the engine...
Have a friend to give me a hand on Thursday pulling the engine, sprocket to come off and a few wires but as long as those frame bolts aren't rank shouldn't be too bad. We'll see.
You have a good plan--I hope it works out for you. If so, you should have a good, strong engine.
This is a great thread! subb'd! :bstar: :bstar: :bstar:
Haha! cheers :)
@ajensen - I'll take a look at the tank after everything else is sorted - I'm hoping I can just smear on some anti-rust stuff and maybe a light wax or something to keep the worse of it off afterwards. Its not so bad though. Taking the entire lump down there is an option but if I think at this point a full top-end rebuild is probably for the best; I'm really hoping the top-end is salvageable - it ran pretty happily, if tappetty and bad-exhaust noisy so I'm hopeful the bottom end is still good.
Just disconnected the electrics and starter, sprayed some plusgas on the engine + cradle mounting bolts, removed the sprocket and cable tied the chain to the frame and checked a few other oddments:
oil filter - ok
cam-tensioner - ok
sump plug - didn't move but I wasn't putting much effort in, the oil is clean so I assume it undoes. The oil pan can always go off to the machine shop too if its threaded. I'll drop the oil tomorrow or Wednesday I guess.
Managed to lose a sprocket cover bolt, one of the smaller ones. absolutely no idea where its gone even rummaged through the bin, completely vanished, got everything else removed laid out and labelled and any bolts that would go back in there holes put back so a bit pissed off about that. Should probably start a parts listing though.
Been looking at the frame now its all exposed and I think there is a winter project to strip the bike and have it powder coated. Not sure what works with the Red tank, gun-metal or something perhaps?
UGH I hate when that happens!!! Thankfully not too often for me but I lost a dremel bit a while back with a cutting wheel on it... still to this day haven't found it :technical:
So all the frame bolts cracked loose easy enough. WTF :mad: Guess steel-on-steel is a much happier interface than mixing metals...
looks ok to get the engine out. I think the plan is to pile up many soft things around there, support the engine on a small bottle jack (with some wood between) then remove all the mounts and cradle and lower as slowly as possible onto the padding or maybe cart. Then see if I can't snap both camshafts and round off all 8 head bolts...
I had another rake around for that bolt but its definitely been taken. If you ever saw the 'Sam-eee-ad' on CBBC I bet it was that.
I am eager to see how everything turns out. One hint--use 6-point sockets.
So far...
...badly.
Top and bottom mounts are free. bottom appears to bear no weight and top only a little.
Front and Back are seized solid. Looks like more steel vs aluminium rot. I think the front one could be sheared off and be ok but the back one has to come out since there is no way to get around it being stuck. Supporting the engine with a bottle jack to take the load off the bolts but nothing...
*There should be pictures but these seem to be empty at the moment
Set about with the drill earlier.
Can I drill through the middle of a bolt?
(https://s4.postimg.org/rcqbeccnt/toby_cant_drill.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/rcqbeccnt/)
No. No, I cannot. It'll clear up though.
The bolt at the back was a sod to drill into.
(https://s4.postimg.org/pwesw79qx/backbolt.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/pwesw79qx/)
Whats that? Its still in one piece? So that one just came free when I put the wrench on it to shear off the head. Honestly, who makes these bolts? It won't turn at all when its in one piece, but will happily turn with nearly all its head removed? Its not even as if the rot was at the head end and just heated up and freed off by the drilling?
Waiting to see if a friend is about for part two of engine removal now, he may have gone on holiday for a week instead though.
Engine out. Snapped a frame bolt at the bottom, just sheared at the point between the cradle and frame, other one came free. The other 4 might not be original. they were 17mm heads with nylock nuts and appeared to be stainless. They came undone really easily...
(https://s21.postimg.org/yzmxq4glf/engine.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/yzmxq4glf/)
Its a bit of a pig to remove with the valve cover still on (the only reason the engine is coming out) but with some back and forth (and noticing at the very last minute to remove the tacho drive :o), a pile of compost bags, kindling and a bottle jack and some assistance it eventually yielded. Its about to pour with rain though so put a tarp over the engine and called it a day.
(https://s21.postimg.org/npu7v6bk3/noengine.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/npu7v6bk3/)
Solved puzzle of suddenly free lower mount...
(https://s21.postimg.org/3ty8fmuir/yack.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/3ty8fmuir/)
...Might see about a chemical metal cosmetic fix but it'll probably just have to stay like this. Any steel to aluminium interface on reassembly is going to be bathed in anti seize.
I'll drill out the stuck valve cover bolt one evening this week and see about removing the top end, since all that's mostly oily I hope its ok. Then it can go off to the shop to have the exhaust bolts removed and I'll see if it all goes back together. Not sure about the best way to get the engine back in, might lay it on its side and put the crankcase in through a bolt then lift it back up and do the other 3. Have to drill out the front mount anyway since that's rotten and I'm hoping it won't just fall to bits once the spacers are off, I've not idea how that would be repaired, not economically anyway.
Not sure about the frame yet, seems dumb not to strip the rest of the bike and have that sorted but at the same time there are enough things to need to sort on the engine that having that done, installed and working might be for the best and strip the thing down again over winter when its unlikely to be in use. I think sandblasting it and the swing arm to get it back to the bare metal is the best thing but I'm not sure what to do then. That stock silver colour isn't bad but something to go with the Red of the tank a bit better might be a better look. Probably get the fork lowers done it the same colour.
Current Count of snapped and lost bolts:
- 1x Lower frame -> cradle bolt
- 1x Sprocket cover bolt
- 1x Valve cover bolt
- 2x Engine mounting bolts
Things I've learned:
- Drilling metal needs nearly no pressure, just run at a slow speed and let the bit cut at its own speed
- A garage would be a wonderful thing
- My next bike will be imported from the driest place on earth and will be boiled in diesel for a year.
I'm sure you arent having the greatest time but this is a great thread. thanks for posting and really enjoying your errr progress :thumb:
It's getting a bit depressing :( That said, it is prompting me to rip the thing right back to the frame and start from there, I mean at this stage I'd be stupid (and penniless) not to really. At least going that route I'll either end up with something I know every single bolt on and know its in good shape or a pile of spare parts and a mounting eBay fee...
I am dreading removing that front mount though, before I do anything else I think that has to come out. I really went at either end with a lump hammer and have this horrible feeling the moment that the spacers are removed (with a hacksaw, they are rotten, of course) the whole front mount is just going to disintegrate.
The swing arm doesn't look quite so horrific that it won't come apart and the headstock has had its bearings replaced sometime in the last few years so might come undone without too much of a struggle. That only leaves the wiring that I can at least examine and see if its not worth doing properly with decent sealed connectors, new cable and encase it all in decent tubing.
Wasn't raining so removed some more bits. Engine will wait until the weekend when I'm not tired and angry from work.
(https://s3.postimg.org/a4jvpcpfz/frame.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/a4jvpcpfz/)
Both bottom battery-tray bolts snapped, not really surprising, they were rank. The bolt through the mudguard (fender?) was stiff but did yield. I'm going to try to convert an old computer PSU into a 12v source for an electrolytic rust remover, been wanting to try it for ages and the battery tray is the victim. I'll write up how quickly it dissolved when I get the wires backwards...
Bagged and labelled up all the parts.
The fake-carbon-fibre-look fake-carbon-fibre indicators at the back were full of real water. Was some real pro work whoever fitted those with massive washers and 1g/m of torque, real pro... They'll likely make it as far as the landfill site.
I'll pull the electrics at the front tomorrow and apart from the back light which was easier to remove with its cables I have the entire loom complete. I'm not sure yet if I'll make a new one. Its not especially ratty but has been hacked about a bit and I'd much prefer neat electrics. So I'll see how it compares to the wiring diagram on the wiki and have a think.
Great information--keep it coming.
Hacksawed off the spacers for the front mount. Probably will replace these with thick aluminium washers and plain alu tube.
(https://s4.postimg.org/gwkczr1zd/rot.png) (https://postimg.org/image/gwkczr1zd/)
The bolt is rusted solid into the spacers although it seems all the corrosion is along one edge, I might cut one in half tomorrow to see how far the rust extends into the tubes as I might be able to gently pick out a lot of the rust with a tie wrap wire
Managed to sit the engine on one side to let the penetrating oil flow vertically so I'll take a look tomorrow and see if its loosened at all. Whole lot less to heat up though. Drilling it will be the sadness
Also noticed that all the available 2nd gs500e engines on eBay at the moment have either seized-in-place or broken-on-the-block front mounts. So looking to avoid that.
Engine needs a good clean so i'll look for some degreaser tomorrow and make it some sort of paddling pool to sit in and be de-skanked.
Drilled some of the engine mount but got tired and angry and rained on so gave up. I'll have a look in the week.
Framewise, its nearly stripped. Just the swing arm and suspension to go and all those nuts are loose. Whether the thing will come adrift I don't know. Times run out today for those.
(https://s4.postimg.org/g202k6lk9/frame_nearly.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/g202k6lk9/)
Quite a lot of the bits thankfully come off as complete systems, the rear brakes from reservoir to caliper comes off in one contained unit. The front brake, once freed from its wiring comes off handlebar and all. the wiring loom mostly just comes off in one go.
Couldn't work out why the top of the yoke wouldn't come off, until I realised the steering lock was on...
I'll clean down the frame ones its ready for coating. Still don't know what colour I want. Thought about black but I don't think it will work, not sure about keeping it the same colour, its not the best silver (as silvers go) IMO.
(http://www.ducati.ms/forums/attachments/ducati-motorcycle-chat/84943d1297868432-ducati-frames-wheels-powder-coated-painted-043.jpg)
something like this perhaps but not as shiny
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1I2zxLXXXXXaXaXXXq6xXFXXXV/2016-carbon-road-bike-frame-new-color-carbon-bike-frame-size49-52-54-56-58-avaliable.jpg)
or this, colour wise. that frame probably costs more than my house.
Frame stripped and somewhat degreased. Centerstand bolts had to be hacksawed off but was expecting that. Worst of the rot was at the centerstand but hopefully sandblasting will take care of that. I'll clean down what I can tomorrow. Going to the shop on Monday and I'll bring all the bits I'm tentatively interested in having done along and let the guy take a look. Would like to get the grab rails, heel plate mount triangle things and torque bar recoated in matt black so cleaned them down although the gear shift side heel plate is rounded off a bit... Will have to see what the powder coating place thinks and quotes on how many parts get done though. Might just get the matt black bits blasted and I'll 4" brush on bitumin.
(https://s2.postimg.org/hgbwxxl5x/manky_frame.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/hgbwxxl5x/)
Swing arm in not-awful shape under years of crud. The broken mudguard is jammed on though and I had to drill out the bolts for the chain guard.
(https://s1.postimg.org/fsxt5fmnv/image.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/fsxt5fmnv/)
'Slightly vague' rear suspension 'possibly' related to the knuckle 'bearings'.
(https://s2.postimg.org/lmwrd9krp/worn.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/lmwrd9krp/)
(https://s2.postimg.org/74zk59tgl/decay.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/74zk59tgl/)
(https://s2.postimg.org/oscrpqe05/bitsoroller.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/oscrpqe05/)
yak. I don't know if the front one is so worn that its into the knuckle itself? They look pretty crusty too so not sure how to get those out for replacement anyway... We'll see. Might take the knuckle along to the sandblaster and get it cleaned up, not sure its worth coating or just replacing outright.
been ignoring the engine.
Y'all in the UK seem to have so much more problems with rust than we have in the US (I am from Florida and have lived in east Tennessee for the last 15 years). I wonder if it is because of so much rain, salt on the roads, if Brits ride no matter what the weather, or something else. By the way, my first bike was a brand-new BSA Bantam D1 (125cc plunger frame). Except for the plunger mechanism, I never had any rust issues--still have the Bantam although it now stays in my garage.
I am really enjoying your adventures with your GS and look forward to your postings.
I'm not so sure why its so rusted up. Its such a smattering in different places that's I guess its just not be taken care of for a long time. I don't recall the council making much effort to salt the roads but the bike's current registration plate is from a city by the sea so maybe its just sat on a seafront for 10 years and gone manky that way?
I don't understand how it got an MOT with a rotten exhaust and borked suspension. Perhaps the man-from-the-ministry was having an offday, or is easily bribed or was a moron. Who knows?
One day I'd like a Bantum, always liked how they looked and there is something appealing to me about an air-cooled 125 single from that era.
I really hope there is some positive progress to report on soon. Gotten a bit depressed cracking off bolts to find more rotted out fixings, the parts list is growing by the day and I've not even started on the engine yet :(
Don't let rust get ya down, Toby!! I am fighting that battle allllll the time here in PA. They put brine and other chemicals on the roads here in the winter time and it just eats away everything! Actually, IIRC, they had to stop in the last year or two because it was actually eating away the mounts for the plows on the trucks!
Here's my Turtle Van last summer when I was fixing the frame rails and fabbing up a new bumper bar (this is without the plastic bumper cover on). Rust sucks but it can be conquered!!!!
(I am just including 3 picture links because I don't want to clutter up your thread with my pictures)
http://i.imgur.com/AebzD4U.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/fFJj6Vk.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/rtBeuf6.jpg
You are not alone in your fight against rust :kiss3:
Whoa, that's some rust going on there! I think its just the cumulative setbacks and the time wasted trying to save a few things that should just be tossed in the metals bin at the tip and replaced with a decent 2nd hand ebay special :angry: One day everything will be stainless steel and all fixings will be copper-greased. at least, I hope.
I've just spent some time with a steel brush wheel in the drill going over some things
That suspension knuckle is a write-off, no way is another bearing going to go into the remains of the hole. I'll try and get a breakers one, some guy is breaking a GS in town at the moment so waiting to hear back from him. Might be able to pick up a load of bolts and things and some other odds and ends to save buying new. Broken mudguard is off but I don't think I'll be putting a replacement in. I'm not even sure what it is protecting?
Ground off the other centerstand 'captive' nut, I think I'll replace those with nylocks or maybe just a single bolt through both mounts. Steel-wheeled some of the rest of it that was a bit crusty and I think the frame is by-and-large sound. Some bits aren't great but I don't think anything is more than superficial. Which I guess is the main thing.
(https://s1.postimg.org/myoju1lqj/superficial.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/myoju1lqj/)
The outrigger things for the passenger footpegs are a bit grim. And at some point someone has made a really poor job of rattle can silvering bits at random. I guess to hide some of the odd flaky bits.
Managed to free off the gear-shift-side heel guard so I'll see about getting both footpeg mounts coated in black. The seat-lock mechanism on grab rail doesn't seem to want to come loose, which is a bit of a sod since I wanted those cleaned up too. Might have to DIY them with hammerite and then a spray can. *update* Seat-lock saw sense so I'll take the grab rails along tomorrow.
Half toying with the idea of having the swing-arm in matt black too, and keeping the frame a silvery colour.
Frame went to the paint shop on Monday, don't have a schedule so I assume it'll be sometime next week. Went for a black swing arm, grab rails, peg-mounts and center stand, and aluminium colour (so slightly darker than stock) frame. Should be getting a zinc coating pre-powder so it'll last forever or maybe longer. Or I'll crash it immediately and it'll be a pointless exercise in futility.
The old shock mount was a nasty piece of junk but found a local breaker had one for £30.
(https://s11.postimg.org/5lhn59kvz/knuckle.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5lhn59kvz/)
Except £35 buys you it and a gas shock (and £40 buys you the same plus £5 credit since neither of us had change). Looks like a circa 1990 unit in aluminium (I can well imagine the later 'its-made-of-rust' model appeared when someone noticed the insane amount this must have cost to produce) with pretty neat bearings. The gas shock from someone called bater or rator or something looks a bit iffy but I'll stick with it until an R6 upgrade, the original shock is a dog. I'll talk to the guy about a replacement instrument panel since mine is horrible and I need so many nuts and bolts now...
Cleaned the whole thing down and mashed loads of new grease into the bearings a few times and was generally quite happy with it.
The engine remains wrapped in a tarp on some blocks in the garden pending some decent cobalt drill bits (£15 ones, they disappoint...) and cutting fluid to sort out the seized mounting.
Thanks for the update.
Between work, laziness, poor weather and frustration I've been a bit slack with this project. After a massive hangover yesterday I thought I should get on with it.
Anyway, frame been and gone to the paint shop. I didn't take a picture of it when it came back but it looks like this now. Put most of it back together a weekend ago, probably only takes a few hours. I'd bagged and labelled everything so was just a case of remembering what came off in what order. The suspension went on upside done since that was easier. The stand springs were about half the reassembly effort. I used the coin trick to remove them (inserting coins between the coils when its under tension then relieving the tension to let the coins act as spacers) but getting them back on was horrible. You can do them one at a time though but even then its nasty. Nothing else was too bad, torqued up the suspension but left anything accessible finger tight and i'll go around at the end. A lot of the bolts are a bit rusted so I might try painting the heads (hence keeping them finger tight!) but I'll see when its done. Went with a satinish aluminium grey, bit like the old silver colour but darker, matt black swing arm, grab rails, center stand (I don't know why I didn't bring the side stand) and foot peg triangle things. Cleaned up the plastic with some boiled linseed oil which smells rank but bought out the black really well. Not sure how long it lasts but the mudguard is a bit less horrible now.
(https://s26.postimg.org/pw3j5vath/image.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/pw3j5vath/)
(https://s26.postimg.org/ykqodaqh1/image.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ykqodaqh1/)
(https://s26.postimg.org/5h2gh22dh/down.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5h2gh22dh/)
Splashed out £10 on some new indicators to replace the faux carbon fiber ones. They aren't as bad as I was expecting but one came with a broken wire so I only attached 3. I tried to solder it yesterday but with a hangover it didn't get much further than getting angry. Replaced the old pink levers with some plain ones. the bar ends are coming off too once I find some aren't horrible (or red/pink). The powder coating has quite badly obscured the frame number (I did ask specifically that they watched this, I didn't notice until I was home) so I might see if I can't etch into the coating and get some black to adhere to the numbers. I have the chassis plate though, not sure how best to attach that. gorilla glue maybe? The headlamp mounts are bit a rough so I might try and find some cleaner / blacker examples and the instrument house is overdue a replacement but most of it seems to be in fair order. Might have cooked the battery, its been inside for a while and i'd occasionally trickle charge it but the other night it refused to charge, it was then I noticed the fluid level was a bit low, topped it up and it'll charge and sit at 12.6v but there was a bit of white crud on the tips of the exposed cells so might be scrap...
The bike is at least half copper grease now, adjusted torque down 10% where applicable!
I'd been ignoring the engine but I thought i'd try and tackle the stuck front mount and stuck valve cover. then at least I could find that the head bolts were stuck and say bad things.
drilled and dremelled (these are brilliant) a section out of the middle of the mount so I only had to work on one section at a time then heated and oiled the LHS one for a while until there was some movement. much back and forth later.
(https://s26.postimg.org/vo3nd0kn9/part_one.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/vo3nd0kn9/)
was quite surprised to see that go without problems.
then I could get a hacksaw blade through the other side to cut a slot in the bolt. Bit of heat to remove some tension on it and with a professional 6" nail with the end removed as a drift knocked that out too.
(https://s26.postimg.org/5m1mczkat/bits.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5m1mczkat/)
Didn't think i'd see this...
(https://s26.postimg.org/g1cdzn6v9/hoile.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/g1cdzn6v9/)
It's not the cleanest job in the world, but at least that bolt is out. Must have taken a good 12 hours overall. I think if I had to do this again removing the middle section, drilling through either end and hacksawing a slot would be the most effective way without hammering it to bits and breaking the aluminium.
(https://s26.postimg.org/62rfd5xfp/retire_early.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/62rfd5xfp/)
Anyway, that's progress. Its mostly back together and I might get the engine off to the shop week after next if I can crack on next weekend. Might even get it all back together in time for its MOT in November. In time to not ride it anymore this year...
Thanks for the update. Here in Tennessee USA we do not have any kind of inspections for motorcycles. We do have to pass a test to get a motorcycle driving license. Also, we have to have liability insurance, which costs me about $80 each year. The license plate is about $20 each year, as I remember.
The MOT over here is yearly for everything once the vehicle is 3 years old, by and large I think its a good idea and honestly the requirements aren't too stringent, keeps the worst wrecks off the road. But its got a fair share of things that you can fail on (and therefore not be allowed on the road) like a number plate reflector... How it passed last time is anyone's guess. Hopefully this time it can go in without broken rear suspension and a blowing exhaust (both insta-fails). oh and rear brake pads that isn't down to the metal on one side.
Some progress today:
Chopped out the valve cover...
(https://s26.postimg.org/8qlqyhith/chopped.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/8qlqyhith/)
Wasn't going anywhere with the front bolt which looked like
(https://s26.postimg.org/bahdsl6dh/more_rust.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/bahdsl6dh/)
(https://s26.postimg.org/xl58sk3np/rusty.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/xl58sk3np/)
So I'll eBay a replacement, the breather can be a spare (for whenever the old one never wears out!). Was shame to have to do it but it was never going to clear the corrosion on that bolt without destruction...
Checked the clearances...all below 0.005mm (the smallest I had) so i'll look to replace the intakes with a +0.005 and the exhausts with a +0.01 then recheck / replace when its time to retorque the head bolts after 500 or so miles. I don't think anyones been into the valve gear in a while...
pulled the cams, gently turning a bit at a time on each bolt in sequence. They came out ok, look to be in ok shape. tensioner seems fine too.
(https://s26.postimg.org/mcr24rptx/top.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/mcr24rptx/)
Removed head bolts, outer ones weren't the easiest but kept it all in sequence so should be alright. Head Gasket seemed clean enough so might have been ok after all.
fair bit of carbon build up going on though...
(https://s26.postimg.org/me0zy6rnp/muck.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/me0zy6rnp/)
I'll clean all this down a bit before taking the head to the machine shop, hopefully in the week, if I can get the barrel off, which is, of course, stuck...
The bores look ok, bit of grot at the very top of the RHS one which I assume I'm a bit :confused: about - bad rings perhaps?
(https://s26.postimg.org/b33e6xr45/lip.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/b33e6xr45/)
the other one is a little discoloured there but not particularly rank.
I think its mostly salvageable, unless the barrels are screwed then I might see about a replacement barrel + pistons to sandwich in. They don't look too salty on ebay either...
The battery seems to be happy to charge and hold > 12v so I might have not ruined that as badly as I thought.
£10 indicators still not repaired.
Wow! I've never seen a valve cover screw rusted like that. It looks like you'll need a helicoil as well. Keep at it--we're cheering for you.
"we're cheering for you" +1
cheers folks :) not a lot gone to plan on this one...
The thread in the cylinder head is fine, the thread on the rusty old bolt is ok too, just the rest of it was fubardo.
went out a smacked the barrel about with a mallet a bit earlier, turned the pistons over and soaked them in wd40 to keep any moisture down. jammed in a piece of wood between the mini head-bolt-house and the crank case and knocked about to put some tension on the barrel join and soaked it all in penetrating oil. Some folks on Stack Exchange motors suggested pulling the studs out...not sure that's going to help too much but might be something to try later in the week.
mine where stuck too. if you have the means, torch them. [heat them up at the seams.] the OEM gaskets have sorta a "glue" like rubber coating that can get stuck. and problem is there's no way of pulling on them that doesn't seem like it's gonna break a cooling fin.
There is a definite lack of access and solid surfaces... Gave them the blast with a torch earlier but they still won't yield, so left it soaking in more penetrating oil.
I'm amazed that anything can be stuck to firmly on just a bit of sealant and after nearly 20 years too!
Quote from: tobyd on September 19, 2017, 12:03:44 PM
There is a definite lack of access and solid surfaces... Gave them the blast with a torch earlier but they still won't yield, so left it soaking in more penetrating oil.
I'm amazed that anything can be stuck to firmly on just a bit of sealant and after nearly 20 years too!
there's also guide pins, that help line everything up/keep it from shifting around or something, like that bolt up-top they could be corroded for what ever reason... salty roads?
Frustrating problem--I have seen it before on many Japanese motorcycle engines. The manufacturer is so intent on preventing oil leaks that the self-sealing gaskets get really stuck. The advice about the dowels is good. I'd soak each stud down with a good penetrant. Avoid the temptation to beat screwdrivers and chisels into the seam between the engine block and the cylinders. Keep us posted.
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sigh, a good start.
So 6 months ago I had a boned bike in a load of bits and everything was broken and what wasn't broken was probably sad and it was quite depressing.
Well, in those 6 months (and i'm aware this is a piss-poor effort time-scale-wise :)) I have done some things.
What started out as an exhaust replacement turned into a frame + top-end rebuild.
Sept -> now went something like this.
(https://s17.postimg.org/mhqyuoszf/carbon.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/mhqyuoszf/)
the studs holding the top of the engine on had corroded, so getting it all to separate was painful.
(https://s17.postimg.org/xhc66abor/mo_carbon.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/xhc66abor/)
in the end i had to knock about 15 wooden wedges between the crankcase and lowest fins to drift the barrel over the corrosion. i have no idea how much muck went into the crankcase. probably a lot. it'll probably just blow up next month, that much. once i'd gotten the barrel moving it was just a case of gently moving it back and forth until it was free.
(https://s17.postimg.org/f1rp8x7uz/sadness.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/f1rp8x7uz/)
it went off to the machine shop (if your in suffolk, Pat Seager is your new machine-shop hero) and got rehoned. i thought about doing it myself but it was £10 and a honing set was at least £15 so it got done professionally.
got all that stuff back a week later.
(https://s17.postimg.org/nwsjjfh7v/fixed_holes.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/nwsjjfh7v/)
(https://s17.postimg.org/ggt9xkocr/barrel.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ggt9xkocr/)
the stuck front engine mount took another week at least. The bolt running through crank case i'd cut at either either to free the engine from the frame, this left a good 25cm of steel shaft stuck. drilling either end wasn't helping as my aim is terrible and without supreme control the drill bits wander, the metal work hardens and you are just grinding metal on metal and making a mess. eventual cure for this was to very carefully dremel out the exposed section, giving two stubs that weren't able to fight you together. then drilling through them and cutting a slot in the hollow and bashing them out with a drift.
screw you front mounting bolt. i thought i'd taken a picture of this but i must have lost it. if you were me it was ace, if not, well maybe it won't be a story to tell your kids.
so, left with a topless engine under a tarp, the top of the engine in pieces in my living room, and the entire rest of the bike boxed up, having to work outside and it being now, i don't know, November? work slowed to a crawl. New piston rings, and circlips appended to pistons.
(https://s17.postimg.org/jnnth7vy3/manky_piston.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/jnnth7vy3/)
(https://s17.postimg.org/q1cwki3ez/clean_piston.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/q1cwki3ez/)
then put it back together ish.
(https://s17.postimg.org/un90svriz/less_sadness.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/un90svriz/)
*i have no pictures of any of these 4 months. imagine putting all the bits back on a GS500 and replacing nearly every effin bolt in the mean time. so here is a Triumph 'holy' Toledo festering in north Wales and the inside of an old, fubardo scirocco i once owned.*
(https://s17.postimg.org/bi5rj2fez/filler_one.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/bi5rj2fez/)
(https://s17.postimg.org/4rpa9mzyz/filler_two.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/4rpa9mzyz/)
I'll update this with all the bits i ended up retro fitting, bolts i replaced and what with and my top-500 investment tips for retirement.
some fun things that occurred after this
none.
some crummy things, in no order.
someone had mullered 7 of the 8 JIS screws on the carbs, cheers for that, i bet you were the same moron that mangled the pilot jets ( i had to drill into these and work them out with an allan key and i might not recover ) and fitted 115 jets. 115? why? oh i remember, JIS bolts, pilot jets mangled. moron.
replaced with 14mm M6 stainless cap bolts all round. replaced jets with stock EU spec 125 + 40s set up. cleaned it all up. needle jets have a 4 clip arrangement so left at either position 2 or 3. vacuum diaphragm things seem ok. didn't lose tiny O-rings (i think)
RR lunched itself, when i was turning it over the first time the charging system was dead. seems powder coating is a great ground. better yet, a PO had hacked up the electrics so nothing worked. putting that back together was too-much fun. £10 ebay 2nd RR seems ok although i had to drill out its bolts since it came supplied rusted onto its bracket.
anyway, in no particular order, but scored with 0-10 over how much it cost x how much of a hateful job it was x how long i waited for the bits this is what i did once i got the cylinder head back from the machineshop. there are probably other jobs that I've blanked out for being too traumatic. like aligning the back wheel.
new piston rings, genuine (couldn't find pattern) - not a bad job (i say this now, they'll probably be boned) - 7 (on cost)
base and head gaskets, bizarrely genuine was the cheapest i could find. - 3
new o-rings for barrel join - 1
ebay valve cover - 2
valve shims - 7 (i had to buy loads because it was well out and that rubbish chart from suzuki is a pack of lies)
valve lapping tool + spring compressor - 10 (alright, it was a pittence but i already had both, lost, so i'm angry)
exhaust studs (bought nissan spec 47mm ones, SBW was right somewhere on here, 50mm in the minimum stud length that works) - 8 (50mm studs are expensive)
fuel hose - tygon 6.4mm -5 (pricy, easy to fit)
carb kits x 2 - 5 easy to fit, expensive
chain guard fittings - 8 (these took about 40 days to arrive and i probably should have just learned to tap+die and DIY'd it ( i had to drill them out))
torque bar bolts - 6 (again, expensive, look unique, were rusted and wrecked)
stator cover gasket - 10 (athena gasket cost nearly nothing, removing the old gasket took *hours*)
indicators pt 1 - 3 (£7 ebay, only two worked, spare bulbs + landfill)
indicators pt 2 - 6 (£8 ebay, all worked but had to make up a new cable assembly, SELOTAPE ISN'T AN INSULATOR!!!!)
stuck rev counter - 9 (why is this crimped into the pod?, who is going to diddle it???, patience worn thin...)
stock airbox - 10
setting the timing - 9 then 3, its nerve wrecking clamping the cams down since they are not only expensive 2nd hand but meant to be a touch brittle. lots of fun when it jumps a tooth when you reinstall the tensioner. lots of fun indeed. not so bad once you get down to it. had a to buy a smaller torque wrench though...
tacho cable house in cylinder head - don't be a loser like me and try and reseat it by tightening its screw. thats how you find out its £25 and a months delivery away. 254234. better yet, don't remove, i had to because the cable nut had rotted.
seat lock mounting nuts - rotten, drilled out, did measure what they were, suzuki wanted both my kidneys, lost measurement, definately a stock size. 345345234623465234
(https://s17.postimg.org/426hxb9q3/valve_broken.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/426hxb9q3/)
this particular novelty is the tank-petcock. you can possibly make out the o-ring which is horked. thats a nitrile-70 2mm CS x 10mm ID from ebay fix right there. you can still see where the leaking petrol stained my new powder coating and sometimes hear me crying late at night about it.
Jumping the gun, since its got an idle problem that i have no idea about - I'd do all this again. If i had a garage. if you have to frame up rebuild the bike and do a top-end job + fix 14 previous owners dodgy hackery and 19 years of neglect its doable. Buy a dremel and a lot of grinding disks before you start though.
anyway, the thing starts on the button. and valve shim adjustment is way easier than youtube makes it out to be.
omg YAY Toby is back!!!! :woohoo:
...and still with the very entertaining way of posting :icon_mrgreen:
That GS of yours sure didn't know what it was in for when you found it. Cheers to you for never giving up! :cheers:
applause for thread resurrection! great update,.... really interested in your progress!
So, the ebay £10 RR is still working and putting out 14.5v, this is good. electrics also still work. chain is clean and de-ranked. marvellous.
The bike runs like a bag of marbles though. not great.
mr72 has been quite patient explaining much of the carbs trickery and I've been playing around with trying to get this to work. Replaced the intake boots earlier today and with the smallest drip of oil the carbs just glided (glid?) in. When i originally reinstalled them i had to drive them in with a mallet. it was hovering around 0 (celcius) then though but the boots had been sat in hot water previously. replaced the spark plugs. according to the chart on NGK once they are sooty and black and carbon fouled they are for scrap. not sure i agree but for an entire £4 delivered for 2 i thought new ones might be a good idea. something else to tick off. considered NGK iridium-ultra-power-rangers-s-club-7-x plugs but maybe once i know its working.
last night i swapped the O-rings i'd replaced into the mixture screw with some slightly different ones. looked like it was going to rain after tightening the side-panel (fascia?) things down so didn't see if they worked. the bike seems great on choke warming up then rapidly gets worse. hopefully those O-rings were just not right and it'll work now. Hoping that the original ones were too fat and i was adjusting the thing way out of range.
of course, the valves might be leaking, the head gasket might be leaking and the pistons rings might be backwards in worn-out bores. no signs of burning oil so i'd faintly happy compression is ok and its just shoddy mixture and me cheaping out on orings.
anyway, its MOT is booked for next month with some new tyres to go (i assume they fail it on emissions, fit the new tyres then bill me a fortune) but hopefully by then it'll be working properly.
carb sync bottle method is nothing but win, well worth it just to see it working.
(https://s17.postimg.cc/l5xra7kgv/one.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/prtvik5zv/)
resplendent with exhaust that started all this. the best bit is i think the exhaust is too loud and i am considering something else if it passes its mot. if any stud snaps the whole thing is getting melted down and turned into bed pans. replaced the levers and bar-ends with ones that weren't pink. also the brake light switch failed on the front. don't take it to bits thinking its fixable, it just explodes everywhere... just pay the 1.99 delivered on ebay and replace it...
(https://s17.postimg.cc/jqw6lhr3j/three.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/81s6xj04r/)
quite like this grey colour. might have to get the fork outer tubes done the same colour but i think someone has mangled one side trying to remove a seal so maybe i'll find some newer tubes to get sorted along with the-bit-the-key-goes-into part. you can see the missing fin.
(https://s17.postimg.cc/m87xsripr/two.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/3sngvd4l7/)
if you look carefully you can see where i went all avant-garde and got the swing arm and those triangle things coated in black. not so sure the triangles work but the swing arm looks better (i think). removing powder coating from the frame to expose the frame number is fairly grim (although there is at least a thick coating of anti-corrosion stuff under the colour coat). a dremel fan-grinder-attachment thing did a great job and 151 clear lacquer worked well for 2 coats but then the can all swelled up so i went inside for a while in case it blew up. frame number is all shiny now.
MOT today. Allowed to ride the bike on the road to get there, may have gotten lost near my house and had to ride around a bit.
The good: well the bike starts runs and stops. pulls quite hard all the way to 4krpm (still being gentle on the new rings), brakes are good. Electrics all work.
The bad: I think the clutch is either a bit sticky or I've adjusted it badly and its not fully engaging, gear shifts are a bit haphazard, its been sat a while so might just need some usage. Throttle response from low rpms is a little hesitant. Might be the jets or the needle isn't right but something to work on, once it was warmed up with a bit of on-road time it seemed the idle mixture wasn't right so might just need tending to again. The 'new' gas shock that came free with a replacement suspension knuckle is not so good. it felt a bit slack but was untested and looked shinier than the original to gave it a go.
The MOT place (a honda + triumph place) was quite quiet so i just sat in the waiting room refreshing the 'has my vehicle got an MOT service?' the government kindly provide page every 2 minutes. after ages 'You have no MOT and will be fined £1000' was replaced with 'MOT expires May 2019'. The MOT guy afterwards said the shock was borderline fail but everything else was in good order. So i'll chuck the old one back on tomorrow evening and budget for a newer 2nd hand spare or an R6 unit next month.
Once i find the paperwork with the right reference number i can tax it and take it on the road again. that'll be nice.
whats next no one asked? Well a bit of a shakedown I suppose. The throttle response from low rpms needs some attention but can't be too hard to work out. I'll check over the clutch cable, I don't think there is a whole lot of adjustability left in it, I don't know if thats the clutch wearing out or the cable stretching. Its currently got about 1/3 to a 1/2 of the bar travel before it resists (I adjusted this like this thinking that was how it worked but in retrospect what?) so i'll back it up a bit. I don't know where to measure the freeplay, at the pivot? on the bar end? by feel for resistance? anyway, I suspect that'll clean up the gear shifts. I'm mulling over a gel battery, I thought I'd kippered the old one but it seems to be quite happy now. the gel battery is courtesy of a gift voucher I got for leaving my previous job and its the only thing I can think of using it for. The seat is a bit tatty and one corner takes on water so you get one wet leg which looks ace. The head needs to be re-torqued in a bit and i should replace the copper gaskets under the head nuts, one made a feeble effort at leaking but since stopped. might tackle that next month.
be nice just to ride the thing again.
Fwiw I think the new conventional wisdom is to ride wot and high revs on new rings, they seat better. That's what I did to the extent possible and my bike burns barely any oil. After 100 miles or so it doesn't matter.
I think you probably are lean at idle. But you need to ride and get it fully warmed for 20 minutes before trying to adjust. If you have that dialed and still have sluggish throttle response then I suspect a vacuum leak or damaged diaphragm.
You likely need less clutch free play. There's an adjustment to be made under the cover on the left side that will probably fix you up. Look up clutch adjustment in the FAQ, or hit me up and I'll find the factory manual section and send it to you.
And if you want to pay the shipping I'll give you a working rear shock. Probably cheaper to buy one locally.
Great read! Hope you get it sorted out to your liking!
After locating the registration document for the reference number to tax the thing I stumped up the £64 for a years road fund.
Went out.
Came back.
Clutch adjustment was ok, gears selected better than before but the cable is out of available adjustment. I know about the free play screw behind the cover and thats set up to 'turned until it resists, then back off a quarter' but I can't turn the cable fully into the handlebar without adjusting the other end out of the housing. Not sure if this means the cable is stretched and kaput or the clutch is up for replacement. There is enough there for now but something to investigate.
Chain was way too tight, I know the grindy sound that makes so adjusted it. re-torqued all bolts the MOT place would have been near to refit the tyres.
Re-checked the carb sync which is still ok. After some idling whilst doing this I pulled the plugs, LHS was a nice tan colour, RHS was white, gave RHS a quarter turn more mixture, will check this again tomorrow maybe. The pickup is still slightly hesitant at low RPM, not entirely sure why. Its never been great below 3000rpm. I'm not sure its overly keen on the 125 jets @ 3rd (of 5) clip position. I might put the old 115s (sledge says these were stock for my year) back on and see if its any happier. I know nearly nothing about jetting beyond changing it for altitude (narrower when higher (I think) - we dont have meaningful altitude in the UK, especially not in Suffolk where I live) or changing it for a freer breathing system (bigger jets (I think)). Maybe 125s are too big and its too rich, it doesn't seem to pull as hard.
Went out again to test fixes, chain grind noise has gone, clutch still only so-so. Might replace the cable, since they are less than a tenner on ebay.
Ran out of fuel at about the midpoint of my test route (town, to open road, to dual carriageway, to open road, to town - circa 14 miles). Overtook an XC90 and halfway through the bike spluttered a bit so I backed off then it just died. I did try to catch it on the reserve but failed (couldn't find it by feel), thought the bike had expired but after some cranking came back to life, headed home via a petrol station where I got 11 litres in. I thought there was more in it when I left off. Evidence suggests otherwise. 2nd time I've had this happen and both times I didn't think 'oh, its just the fuel tap' and immediately started thinking of the worst...
The old shock works fine but might see if there is any preload adjustment in it. I have no idea what setting its on and it wasn't going to be moved by hand so its at whatever setting its been on for 2 years or so now. I'll investigate shipping on that offer mr72, if its not crazy I might take you up on that - cheers :)
Interesting what you say about piston rings, I was going to run it at sub 5000rpm and short shift everywhere for 500 miles (effectively half a break in procedure) but might accelerate this a bit.
Avon Road Riders are ace, really happy with the grip. Brakes seem fine too.
"Ran out of fuel at about the midpoint"(https://www.motohouston.com/forums/images/smilies/BangHead.gif)
There was only going to be that one-point to run out, why is it never 1 minute after setting!... If it had been worse than just needing to flip to reserve I would not have enjoyed either the walk home or the recovery bill...