and a part fell out. I have no idea how to put it back in.
There's this diagram:
https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs500f-2008-k8-usa-e03_model34238/partslist/BLCK0041.html#results
but it fails to show the third screw. It came out, along with a spring and a rubber rectangle that has a sloped top and hole for the spring. I have no idea what way the slope should face, or if it's important.
http://imgur.com/a/nfOwr
In other news, the horn is not stock and I have no idea how to find out what's wrong. Horn worked when I bought the bike. I have a multimeter and a vague idea of how to use it, I tested the fuse (horn has it's own fuse) and that was okay, but that's as far as I got. I couldn't even see the horn switch since it was under the blinker light switch & didn't feel like f%$king things up even more tonight. Any advice/helpful links are welcome.
I just went out to look at mine but noticed where you had a third screw I have the end of a zip-tie so didn't take it apart to find out what that was all about. So I'd like to know this too!
If you put a 9v PP3 battery on the terminals of the horn does it splutter? I got 26.0 ohms off mine, then 4.0 when I sanded the mank off. If you get nothing (make sure the meter is on the lowest resistance setting) the horn might be shot.
thanks for the advice, I didn't realize a 9volt could be helpful. I'll try and get some connecting (wires? cables?) at an electronics store & test it.
That screw/spring/plastic bit is what controls the resistance of the choke lever. Without it installed, you'll notice that the choke will not stay engaged at all. I'm not sure off the top of my head which direction the little black bit goes back in other than the hole should face downward, as you show in your marked up diagram. You'll want to reinstall that bit, the spring and the screw and tighten the screw such that the choke lever will stay engaged, but is loose enough to be easily adjusted.
The 9v PP3 is about right to fit straight onto the horn terminals - you can just unplug the two wires from the bike and mash the battery on and see what happens.
Quote from: qcbaker on July 26, 2017, 09:56:46 AMYou'll want to reinstall that bit, the spring and the screw and tighten the screw such that the choke lever will stay engaged, but is loose enough to be easily adjusted.
Thaaaaank you! I did put it back in and just....hoped I got it right. I went for a ride yesterday and everything seemed okay, but I might loosen the screw a bit to be sure.
Quote from: tobydThe 9v PP3 is about right to fit straight onto the horn terminals - you can just unplug the two wires from the bike and mash the battery on and see what happens.
Ahh, my horn isn't stock. BUT I got some wires from work. I'm going to connect the horn straight to the bike battery and see if it honks, that sound right? Then I'm connecting the relay to the bike battery to see if it clicks & follow a youtube vid on how to multimeter test the rest of it. I assume the bike should be off for all of this? When the horn did work, the bike had to be running.
(the horn has it's own relay too. I've been told my horn is super loud).
Okay, well, little black rubber piece seems like it isn't much of a concern. Moving on.
Every part of the horn tested okay.
Horn switch activates relay (clicks)
test wire from horn + to battery + set's it off (horn & horn ground okay)
fuse is good
continuity in the wire between horn and relay
relay good (I replaced it because I was running out of possibilities)
sooooo
according to this diagram:
http://www.rattlebars.com/avalanche/relay_basics.html
my wiring is weird. Tab 85 is spliced into the wiring harness, which is weird for a ground, and tab 30 is indeed a short fused wire from the relay that goes too....the negative side of the battery? Thing is, it always hooked up there, even when the horn was working.
So what the heck.
ideas on what/how to test next? I've been relying on youtube since I have no idea what I'm doing, but there is no youtube for "why is my wiring weird"
: /
Can you check the voltage between the horn and the relay when its activated? Continuity might there but you might only have 1v or something which isn't enough to meep the horn.
If the horn fires on the ~12v directly over the battery then the horn is good so that sort of points at either the switch or the relay. If the switch clicks, the relay its probably sound which more-or-less leaves the relay, dirty connections, or a short somewhere (which would trip a fuse, you'd hope). The fuse is good right? Have you tried a replacement?
Weird wiring: That sounds a bit like its been installed backwards, are you sure those are the right terminals? The horn will almost certainly work in either direction voltage wise, I'm less sure the relay would. Do you have the relay part number, can usually grab a datasheet for Farnell or RS to get the pin-out.
In your diagram you should have (assuming the same wiring as the diagram) whilst testing for >= 12v (probably @ 20 vdc on your DMM) the following.
at least 12v on terminal 87 when the relay is active - nothing otherwise
at least 12v over the trigger wire in terminal 86 when the switch is depressed, nothing otherwise
continuity between terminal 85 and a clean bit of frame - all the time
at least 12v on the relay to horn wire when active.
Quote from: tobyd
Can you check the voltage between the horn and the relay when its activated? Continuity might there but you might only have 1v or something which isn't enough to meep the horn.
How do I do that? I need very specific instructions. I have a setting on the multimeter that says "DC 10A", I assume that's what I need it set at?
Quote from: tobydThe fuse is good right? Have you tried a replacement?
yes, I tested it with my multimeter and replaced it anyway (I had extras, why not).
Quote from: tobydWeird wiring: That sounds a bit like its been installed backwards, are you sure those are the right terminals? The horn will almost certainly work in either direction voltage wise, I'm less sure the relay would. Do you have the relay part number, can usually grab a datasheet for Farnell or RS to get the pin-out.
I replaced the relay because I was out of ideas, it still didn't work. The horn did work when I bought the bike, so the wiring should be correct. I've been told that since the relay clicks, that means 86 and 85 are fine and don't need to be messed with.
Quote from: tobydIn your diagram you should have (assuming the same wiring as the diagram) whilst testing for >= 12v (probably @ 20 vdc on your DMM) the following.
at least 12v on terminal 87 when the relay is active - nothing otherwise
at least 12v over the trigger wire in terminal 86 when the switch is depressed, nothing otherwise
continuity between terminal 85 and a clean bit of frame - all the time
at least 12v on the relay to horn wire when active.
just tell me where to put the DMM probes and I'll do it. I have this one: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/jUuIANsxVtI/hqdefault.jpg but still not super sure what all the settings are. It's auto ranging?
Ok so that rules out the fuse, Did you replace the relay with a like-for-like part, and I mean exactly the same part number? The old relay may have been bad but had its terminals wired up differently to whatever its replacement was. The wiring might look backwards but it was correct for that particular relay so, if you had the part numbers I can tell you which pins are which.
The clicking, whilst usually a good test doesn't mean its definitely working. The rest of the contacts inside might be burnt out so the switching side isn't really switching anything.
The new relay might be good but has a different pin arrangement so 12v 51/30 and ground are mixed up and that's why it doesn't work.
DMM testing: pro paintbrush skillz right here!
(https://s1.postimg.org/y2rg4dgjf/paintskillz.png) (https://postimg.org/image/y2rg4dgjf/)
Sorry if this sounds condescending anywhere! I don't mean it to be!
have the bikes ignition On but engine off.
Then set your DMM to the settings in the picture (That's DCV, not ACV)
When you are testing voltage you don't want the DMM as part of the circuit, with all the wires connected up put the probes 'over' the terminals you want to test to see what is going on there.
(https://s17.postimg.org/ploj8rdnv/over.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ploj8rdnv/)
The DMM in this picture isn't a part of the circuit it's just 'over' the wires running to that motor. The circuit will function whether the probes are there or not. IF you were measuring current then you need the DMM as part of the circuit, but this test is voltage only. 'Over' does mean physically touching not just held nearby!
So with the horn button held in you should see at least +12v between with the PROBE RED on RED site (suggest the terminal on the relay the horn switch connects to) and the PROBE BLACK on 85
With the horn button held in you should also see at least +12v between PROBE RED on Lime (suggest use a fuse blade, if accessible, on this line) and the PROBE BLACK on Purple (suggest use the relay-side horn terminal)