Hi
My 1991 GS500E suddenly will not start. I was riding the other day and parked. After 10 min I tried to start and absolutely nothing happened. Except for oil and neutral lights everything else is dead.
This is what happens when I turn the key:
Oil and neutral lights turn on.
No head light, brake light, indicator or any other lights.
When start button is pressed nothing happens. Not even a clicking sound.
When I turn the key there is a click from the regulator.
I have tested the starter relay and it seems to be OK. The 20 Amp fuse is fine. Battery is pretty new and shows 12.4 V.
When trying to bypass the starter relay with a screwdriver the engine turns but will not start. When doing this and pulling the throttle it back fired massively.
Any ideas? I would really appreciate some help.
I'm new to the GS so I'm not familiar with its quirks, but if it was me I'd check the safety switches (side stand and clutch).
Are you pulling in the clutch when starting? Are you attempting to start the bike in gear with the kickstand down?
I am attempting to start on the center stand with bike in neutral. The clutch swith is missing and there i just an open slot where it is supposed to be. However, it has been that way since i bought it. No electrical wires are connected to the clutch lever so i assume the previous owner has bypassed it somehow?
Battery. 12.4v isn't enough to start the bike
- Bboy
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Quote from: BockinBboy on August 10, 2017, 08:57:43 AM
Battery. 12.4v isn't enough to start the bike
- Bboy
Uh... It's a 12V system running 12V batteries. 12.4 is absolutely enough to start it.
I'd be willing to bet you could start it on 10V.
When you turn the key all running lights should come on (headlight, taillight, gauges) as well as the indicator for oil pressure and neutral if applicable.
The fact they don't makes me think either the wiring is buggered or something is disconnected.
Looking at what I assume to be the correct wiring diagram for a GS500E - Not sure if you have a service manual for your particular bike (get one!!)
http://www.classiccycles.org/media//DIR_1653304/DIR_1762756/abb58082b60cffe7ffff8268ffffe417.pdf (http://www.classiccycles.org/media//DIR_1653304/DIR_1762756/abb58082b60cffe7ffff8268ffffe417.pdf)
If you follow the battery connections through to the ignition switch (Red line) - you will see that in the "on" position, you are getting power to the oil and neutral indicator lights (Orange wire gets linked to the Red one) - your horn should also (hopefully) work with the ignition on. All good - neutral light working means the diode module and neutral siwtch is still probably ok.
Next item in the circuit is the sidestand switch (Top right of wiring diagram).
You should be able to put the bike on the center stand, and pop the side stand up - at this stage (ignition on) check to see if you get a 12V signal on the orange wire with the blue strip (Easiest to check it at the handlebar kill switch).
It is also possible that the former owner did a not too stellar job of bypassing the clutch switch - you could try strack down how they have done that / check for a broken connection.
If you have checked the starter relay / motor, my bet is on a faulty connection on the sidestand relay / faulty relay (damaged connection more likely if someone may have tried bypassing it - could be a damaged or corroded connector), or the engine kill switch. Sometimes unplugging everything, giving it a good clean with WD40 / CRC 226 may work.
Good luck - and let us know if you trace it out / have any other questions.
A good, charged 12v battery is 13-14v... anything under 12.6v, depending on general battery health, the bike WILL have trouble starting. I'm not saying it won't start under 12.6v, I'm saying you will see signs of strain to start it. An older battery with depleted cells can show over 12v and you may not even get clicks. You can't rule it out just because it said it's over 12v - that doesn't mean it can actually start the bike - depends on battery health.
Edit: I had very similar symptoms with a 4 month old motobatt in my GS... longer story short - Motobatt helped me determine it was faulty and replaced it without charge.
- Bboy
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
+1 BBoy - Definately worth having a good battery - and correct wrt the voltages. Bike will run like Sh*T on a dry battery / AGM with a popped cell (I too have had a motobat fail). If you bump start does it try run at all>?
It is odd no headlights or anything - there is a connector that could leave just the neutral and oil light and nothing else - In the middle of that wiring diagram there is a connector shown to the left of the "Front Brake Light Switch" (the connector that has orange/blue+orange/white+yellow/white+yellow/white+black+black)
If that connector was disconnected (Or had some dodgy contacts happening), you would get a no-go with the symptoms you have described.
Hope this helps
Quote from: BockinBboy on August 10, 2017, 07:11:24 PM
A good, charged 12v battery is 13-14v...
Is this true? I've never seen anyone make this claim before, except when they're talking about measuring a running car's battery voltage... 13-14v sounds like the measurement when the alternator is charging the battery, but I would not imagine a sitting 12v battery to ever show 13-14v.... 12.6v is about what I would expect from a battery on its own
Quote from: GSChesler on August 11, 2017, 08:21:20 AM
Quote from: BockinBboy on August 10, 2017, 07:11:24 PM
A good, charged 12v battery is 13-14v...
Is this true? I've never seen anyone make this claim before, except when they're talking about measuring a running car's battery voltage... 13-14v sounds like the measurement when the alternator is charging the battery, but I would not imagine a sitting 12v battery to ever show 13-14v.... 12.6v is about what I would expect from a battery on its own
That's how I've always seen it. Charging voltage should be around 14, standing voltage should be around 12.
Here-here on 12.6v on a resting battery. I've got 2 new batteries sitting at 12.4v and a third one at 12.6). 14v-ish what you want to see on running bike and good charging system. I start my VFR on 12.4v below freezing in the dead winter.
Sounds like a wiring or switch issue somewhere. I'd try to bump start it like someone else said.
On a side note I've dealt with a charging issue on my other bike a while back. One day I took a long ride and parked it for a minute. It would not start after. I let it sit for a while and once it cooled down it started again. Wound up being the stator burning up causing the regulator/rectifier overload protection to activate. I kept running it like that not knowing there was an issue until the battery eventually quit charging and the whole system burnt up.
Alright I'll take it that I'm wrong on resting voltage numbers. It seems like Im only ever testing a battery when it's bad anyway - or shortly after I've replaced it and the bike had been on... so it wouldn't have had a chance to actually 'rest'.
BUT. I still contend you will begin noticing starting issues with a resting voltage at or below 12.4v on a motorcycle battery. Especially on a cold bike. There just isn't a lot extra CCs there like a car battery. Motorcycle batteries are just enough to start a bike without room for much else.
- Bboy
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Swan81 - any luck tracing the Gremlins?
Check kill switch?
Hi I'm new to this site just read this link my gs has the same problem did you find out what was wrong? I've tried new battery relays wiring. It will start if I short it in the selinoid. If you hit the start button when it's running you can hear the starter working. But absolutely nothing when you turn the ignition on. Please someone help it's driving me crazy!!!!!
I am pretty sure the original problem in this thread was a dead battery.
I'm pretty sure your problem is a bad starter.
Cool thanks for your reply.. The starter dose work if I short the selinoid...
yeah, you mean the relay, right? Big round thing on the RH side mounted next to the battery tray?
If so, you found your bad part. Replace and be happy.
No I replaced that. Still no life when I turn the key. No lights nothing. Lights work if I short the starter selinoid and so does the starter but only when engine is running.
Well in that case I'd suspect some other wiring fault. Handlebar switch, side stand switch, clutch safety switch, etc. Bad wiring, worn insulation shorting something, disconnected thing, etc.
Just have to debug.
I've done that just want to know what could cause no power to the ignition. Could it be the ecu. I had problems with that a while ago and sorted it. Well thought I had.
There's no ECU on a GS500. Get a wiring diagram, they're all over the internet, and trace it, you unfortunately have to basically chase down every wire. Start with the wiring going to the starter solenoid. When the start button is pressed, is it hot? No? Move to the front side of the start switch. Is that wire hot? No? Move to the next component, the run/start switch. Is the wire feeding that hot? Etc. You just have to chase the entire wiring of the bike. No easier way, no shortcuts.
But it's likely the side stand relay or side stand circuit, clutch switch or circuit feeding that, etc.
If there are no LIGHTS (not just no-start) then something is bad between the main fuse and the ignition switch. Might even e a bad ignition switch, or the wiring from the ignition switch to elsewhere.
Yep you're right the ignition switch is my next test. Really hope I sort it soon me n the old girl have been through a lot. Dirt quake and lots of other kinds of other crazy races. It is getting to though.
I've raced a lot of bikes over the years and never had this much hassle. When I said ecu I meant cd I!,
+1 on it most likely being the side stand switch or clutch switch.
I by past both of them when I first had the problem no joy am afraid.
The problem most likely is not the actual side stand switch or the actual clutch switch. It's more likely the WIRING to the side stand switch, the side stand relay, or the clutch switch wiring.
Bypassing the parts locally doesn't rule out the wiring being at fault. Wiring, corroded connectors, wire insulation worn and shorting against the frame, etc., all very common.
New loom then could be there for months in that case. On the positive side of things I put a by pass switch in between the starter selinoid and if I press the original starter but nothing happens but if I keep my finger on it and just flick the bypass the starter stays on. Means that the original starter switch still has power. I'll be able to get the multimeter in the new year when the work shop opens. So I can properly test it. Also I've been looking at the wiring diagram and the cdi unit does connect to the starter switch and stop button.
Mmmm it's gone quiet maybe the cdi is ecu ? Definitely looks like one when you look at the wiring diagram.please can someone that knows help.
No the CDI is NOT an ECU.
It's a CDI. "Capacitive Discharge Ignition" module. It is not the cause of your problem, well most likely not. Are you getting a spark? If so, the CDI is working.
Seriously. You are going to HAVE TO CHASE THE WIRING and follow the wiring diagram to do so. There's no parts-swapping shortcut.
Just found out that if I short the starter selanoid it runs but the starter stays engaged..if you then take off the starter wire it runs with out but only with the lights on. Think it's trip to a auto Election.....
Because I've been through the wiring over n over again. I read another thread on here that some one had replaced the loom and was having the same problem. But just my luck he never finished the thread saying what the problem was. And just for the record I've looked at the wiring diagram over and over again
Still no joy!
Put a new loom on it nothing
Bummer--I am sure there are people on this forum that can help you out. As for me, I worked on old Brit bikes in the '60s. The electrical systems were not as reliable, but they were easier to fix. Best wishes.
Cheers matey well I left her in garage for a while am back trying to sort it still no luck. I really can't think what it can be. Is there any way fo wiring it to another switch may be.?
Problem solved it was the starter relay. I put a brand new one off eBay way back and it didn't sort it. I tried everything once more so I put a second hand starter relay (selanoid) on and bingo the shed is up and running happy days. Thanks for all the replies 😄😄😄😄😄