Ive always heard gs500s were sometimes tough to start but I think mines actually a problem. I have a video showing what it does. Anyone else have problems like this when you cold start it. The temp when recording was 89 outside fyi. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-v3X_WFMlT4&feature=youtu.be
(https://s28.postimg.org/bpnu57ou5/smoll.png)
as long as your bikes cool to the touch, you don't have to take anything off to fix this, just a screw driver. or something pokey to get up in there. my bike's just in pieces right now.
Quote from: TutorialSurplus on August 19, 2017, 10:10:43 AM
Ive always heard gs500s were sometimes tough to start
They shouldn't be. If they are tough to start it is because something isn't right. Mine drop straight into a smooth idle as soon as I touch the starter button.
I'm guessing something is out of adjustment with your carbs - when was the last time they were adjusted?
how are the exhaust valve clearances?
Quote from: J_Walker on August 19, 2017, 02:21:37 PM
(https://s28.postimg.org/bpnu57ou5/smoll.png)
as long as your bikes cool to the touch, you don't have to take anything off to fix this, just a screw driver. or something pokey to get up in there. my bike's just in pieces right now.
Seems like the spring is okay
In response to 1018cc unfortunately when I bought the bike it had sat up due to the tank being rusted for probably 4 years. I got it and replaced the tank and cleaned the carbs but im more of a car guy than a carbureted bike guy so I could have possibly done something wrong but atleast its running now thats a plus. As for when you say adjusted what do you mean?
Response to HPP8140 Ive never checked the valve clearances bike has 10k should probably check them but figured with only 10k on the bike they shouldnt be that bad.
I was thinking adjusting the balance between the carbs and setting the idle mixture. Although, if it only has 10,000kms on it it shouldn't be too bad - did you pull the jets out and blow through them with compressed air? If the bike has sat for that long they've probably go gummed up with rubbish. Rusty tanks are bad but I think Suzuki must be bad for it if they don't get used. The missus' uncle has a '08 GSX 1400 with only 20k on it and it had a rusty tank that has now been treated. My tank still looks fine inside but then again I go a maximum 2 weeks between full tanks of fuel.
Yeah ive pulled the jets and made sure they were clear. You think a vacuum leak could cause trouble like that?
Here's my two cent.. when you have the choke open, it cuts off the air flow some. When you are opening the throttle, you're letting the air in again. An when you are opening the throttle the bike is revving and not stalling. that's pointing to me it's actually an idle adjustment issue.
Now you may be saying to yourself now, but when it's warm it idles right where it's suppose to be at! you are correct it is, BUT! The big plastic knob for adjusting the idle, is only adjusting one side of the butterfly valves. so what's happened is, one cylinder is getting the proper amount of fuel/air needed to cold start the engine, and the other is barely functioning [not enough air] SO. by opening up the not-so-obvious idle screw on the OTHER side of the carb, causing the opposing butterfly valve to open slightly too, then closing the big plastic idle adjustment screw the same amount of turns you opened the other not so obvious one, you are in theory balancing the idle adjustment more evenly.
now by in theory I mean, there's other factors that play into idle adjustment such as the pilot jet, and air fuel mixture screw. so if the above adjustment doesn't work THEN you should look into these last two.
(https://s28.postimg.org/66lanzrst/idlescrewsmoll.png)
Quote from: J_Walker on August 19, 2017, 07:49:52 PM
Here's my two cent.. when you have the choke open, it cuts off the air flow some. When you are opening the throttle, you're letting the air in again. An when you are opening the throttle the bike is revving and not stalling. that's pointing to me it's actually an idle adjustment issue.
Now you may be saying to yourself now, but when it's warm it idles right where it's suppose to be at! you are correct it is, BUT! The big plastic knob for adjusting the idle, is only adjusting one side of the butterfly valves. so what's happened is, one cylinder is getting the proper amount of fuel/air needed to cold start the engine, and the other is barely functioning [not enough air] SO. by opening up the not-so-obvious idle screw on the OTHER side of the carb, causing the opposing butterfly valve to open slightly too, then closing the big plastic idle adjustment screw the same amount of turns you opened the other not so obvious one, you are in theory balancing the idle adjustment more evenly.
now by in theory I mean, there's other factors that play into idle adjustment such as the pilot jet, and air fuel mixture screw. so if the above adjustment doesn't work THEN you should look into these last two.
(https://s28.postimg.org/66lanzrst/idlescrewsmoll.png)
I agree I think it has to do with that. On warm days of around 80 or 90. If I start the bike without the choke at all and hold the throttle so that the rpms stay around 2500 for a little while then let off the throttle it will idle back to around 1200 and run fine. Sometimes when its abit colder i can do that but it will not want to rev that high and as soon as i touch the throttle it dies.