I thought I might as well start a build thread for my attempt at "Adventurising" my GS500. I'm normally hopeless at taking photos as I work on my bikes, so starting this thread will maybe spur me on to make a record of work done.
The extra GS in the title of this thread is a cheeky acknowledgement of the BMW Adventure bikes (of which I'm a big fan).
At this point a little background might be helpful. Myself and my brother are involved in a charity ride each year called the Scrapheap Adventure Ride which raises money for Down syndrome NSW. The idea is that you pick up a bike for less than $1,000, get it roadworthy and ride it to the designated meeting point, which is in a different place each year. It's always an out of the way area that requires a bit of an "adventure" to get there. It's up to the individuals to raise donations and there is always competition amongst teams to raise the most! In the past I've ridden Postie bikes, an '81 DR500 with a homemade sidecar and an ER5 with knobbies.
This time I picked up a 2006 GS500 that has been dropped on its RH side for $500. I picked up the parts needed to get it running for about $150. It fired up OK and ran sweet, but instead of going for a ride around the block to make sure everything is fine I started pulling it apart. So I'm hoping it grabs all gears and doesn't have any issues. It's only showing about 22,000 kms so it really shouldn't have too many dramas.
So far I've fitted an SV650 rear shock which has raised the rear about 85mm. I picked up a DL650 front wheel because I like the idea of running tubeless tyres and the 19" rim gives me heaps of options for adventure type tyres. I found a DRZ400 front end for $80 on
fleabay and had a friend modify the GS steering stem to fit the DRZ triple clamps. But when I fitted it to the bike the gap between the fork legs wasn't wide enough for the wheel. So I pulled the trigger on a DL1000 front end (that almost cost the same as the purchase price of the bike). Only thing is now I have to machine the wheel to take bigger bearings to suit the larger axle of the 1000.
I had a bit of time in the shed today and made a timber mock up of a bracket that will move the footpegs forward 125mm and down about 80mm. I'm 6'3" and will appreciate a bit extra legroom. This bike will have heaps of ground clearance, so lowering the 'pegs shouldn't cause an issue.
There's heaps more to do, but the ride isn't until October '18.
(https://i.imgur.com/X3G7Me6.jpg)
God job man! Im very intrigued as to how the bike will look once completed.
I was rubbish at taking photos of progress as well, to busy in a world of Motörhead to notice the progress.
Super project for a really great cause. Keep us posted on your progress.
I'm seriously interested in your footpeg moving ... I'd like to do the same thing to my GS. It's not as if I need any ground clearance. I don't corner on the pegs. Given my height and long arms and legs (compared to average) the bike would be loads more comfortable of the pegs were maybe 30mm lower and 50mm forward.
What do you plan to do about the shift lever and brake lever? That's always been what has prevented me from remounting the pegs. It's a few hundred bucks worth of "rearset" parts to get all these to cleanly move with the pegs. Just curious.
sub'd :)
Quote from: mr72 on December 27, 2017, 08:10:18 AM
I'm seriously interested in your footpeg moving ... I'd like to do the same thing to my GS. It's not as if I need any ground clearance. I don't corner on the pegs. Given my height and long arms and legs (compared to average) the bike would be loads more comfortable of the pegs were maybe 30mm lower and 50mm forward.
What do you plan to do about the shift lever and brake lever? That's always been what has prevented me from remounting the pegs. It's a few hundred bucks worth of "rearset" parts to get all these to cleanly move with the pegs. Just curious.
The brake lever is attached to the footage bracket, so long as I keep the mounting angle the same as stock it will be in the same position. The gear lever is another story. I haven't had a good look at it yet, but I assume that I'll have to mount another lever on the lowering bracket and make up a linkage to connect back to the gear shaft.
(https://i.imgur.com/SRYdfCu.jpg)
Mucked around with some more plywood and after a bit of hit and miss, I've probably come up with the L/H side footpeg relocator bracket. I've had to "rotate" the peg bracket clockwise to allow enough clearance for the side stand. If you look at the photo you can see that it is spaced out about 20mm.
I still haven't worked out a gear lever linkage yet, but I'll probably do that once I've made the actual metal bracket and bolted it in place.
(https://i.imgur.com/pSQKuN7.jpg)
Stoked to see you fab this up!
Offroad GS? Sounds great!
looking good my friend, looking good. once you get this sorted, other changes planned?, such as gearing, maybe filer and pipe?, something to free up a couple ponies? and tires
Aaron
Fantastic idea.
Footpegs. You would be better to make your own from scratch. The standard pegs/levers/backplates are ridiculously heavy. The gear change can be easily swapped for a different lever( alloy if possible) and easy enough top make a new brake lever. The Brake line has a U bend in it so can go a fair way forward.
This will give an idea of the weight savings possible: (https://s5.postimg.org/j3v2qqtir/P6020017.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/j3v2qqtir/)
(https://s5.postimg.org/hoti20kpv/P6020018.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/hoti20kpv/).
What forks are you going to. A set of dr650 or DRz400 would be useful if you can mate them.
You can get really good bolt in off road footpegs that would bolt straight to your new peg plates. You will have to extra brace them a the stock GS bolt holes are pretty flimsey. Right hand you could use one of the engine frame piece bolt spots but left will reguire a bit more thought.
Greg I started with a DRZ400 front end, but there's not enough gap between the forks to fit the DL650 front wheel I plan to use. So I've gone with a DL1000 front end. I just have to modify the wheel a bit to take the bigger diameter axle of the 1000.
For simplicity (and because I'm cheap) I'll just mod the original foot pegs to suit. The adaptor plates I'm thinking of will be easy to make, my fabrication skills are pretty basic. You mentioned the stock bolt holes and they had me a bit worried too. So I'm thinking of bracing the plates I make at the front to help carry some weight (I'm fairly hefty and I like to stand a fair bit). On the R/H side I can connect to the frame bolts that hold the removable section of frame. On the L/H side maybe use the side stand switch bolts, they're only 6mm I think, but it will only need to help stop the longer plates from flexing. There is a fair bit of material in the frame between the bolt holes so I thought about maybe drilling through the frame and putting an extra bolt all the way through with a nut on the inside.
It's only a cheap bike so I'm not going to spend a heap of dollars trying to turn it into something it wasn't designed to be, just having a bit of fun. I have no intention of hitting ruts and big jumps on it, mostly just gravel/dirt road touring. But there may also be a sidecar in its future, just for fun!
I'm really interested in this thread.
I have sort of adventurized my GS but more to a Vstrom level than a GS level. I just put on bar risers/vstrom bars, lowered dirt bike style pegs off ebay, TKC 80 knobby tires, katana rear shock, hepco and becker hard cases, crash bars, a new seat that is ~ 1/2 inch higher, and LED driving lights. I also moved the forks down in the triple trees as much as I feel comfortable to get a little more ground clearance.
The biggest weakness of my bike is the low ground clearance, lack of skid plate, and short suspension travel. I'm really interested in how you put the new front end together!
Definitely interested in what you come up with!
In case you want to take an easier shortcut, I found that the rearsets from a CBR900RR fit quite well with only a tiny bit of modification. I have pictures on the signature below.
There was plenty of room for adjustment, except that on my bike the brake pedal was limited by the location of my exhaust. On the clutch side, I had to cobble up an adapter to the shifting splines.
Quote from: Bluesmudge on January 05, 2018, 09:37:08 AM
I'm really interested in this thread.
I have sort of adventurized my GS but more to a Vstrom level than a GS level. I just put on bar risers/vstrom bars, lowered dirt bike style pegs off ebay, TKC 80 knobby tires, katana rear shock, hepco and becker hard cases, crash bars, a new seat that is ~ 1/2 inch higher, and LED driving lights. I also moved the forks down in the triple trees as much as I feel comfortable to get a little more ground clearance.
The biggest weakness of my bike is the low ground clearance, lack of skid plate, and short suspension travel. I'm really interested in how you put the new front end together!
The front conversion isn't difficult if you, or someone you know can mod the steering stem from your GS.
If you press the steering stem out of the bottom triple clamp, you'll see that the section that goes through the triple clamp has a diameter of 30mm (same as the bottom bearing). Both the DRZ400 and DL1000 steering stems have a corresponding diameter of 30.3mm (don't ask me why). So what my fabricating friend did with my GS stem was build the area up with TIG weld and then turn it down on his lathe to 30.3mm. Then I pressed it back into the DL lower triple clamp and using the original GS bearings (new ones actually) fit the triple clamps on the bike. Then forks, wheel, etc. I hope that wasn't too confusing!
An added bonus of using the DL front end is twin discs! Or you can leave one off if you're happy with a single front disc.
I'm not sure how much more ground clearance this makes as I didn't measure the original bike at the front before I swapped it over. If you can stand your bike upright and measure from, say the lower triple clamp bolt and let me know, I'll measure mine and see what the difference is. I do know that the DL forks are about 80mm longer than the GS.
I hope this helps.
I looked at the switch bolts as well. They should be fine for brace bolts as they will always be in compression so the bolt size wont matter.
If your are gonna do a lot of tar work maybe double disc,s but in the dirt, twin discs will be a pain to modulate even with a decent grippy tyre. That plus a single disc is much lighter and has less rotational mass ( important in the dirt).
I was thinking DRZ400SM for the forks as they are wider between the inside of the forks AND USD's. The disc available for them in nice and big.
I like the idea of this bike as it is a more sensible approach to an adventure motor than those huge heavy things people are using. Nice meaty bottom end grunt as well. Still a water cooled donk would probably be more useful at lower speeds.
I was recently told that Versys triples with DRZ forks have enough space to fit the DL wheel. I haven't looked into it because I'd already bought the DL front end, so I can't confirm if it works or not.
I'm going to go with the twin discs and see how it goes. My regular ride is one of those dirt behemoths and I love the brakes on it (R1200GS). I've done 125,000 klms on it since new and still can't get enough!
If I do go ahead and build a sidecar for this the twin discs will be a blessing.
I recently got some shed time and made the R/H footpeg relocating bracket.
(https://i.imgur.com/164pyIn.jpg)
Its all rough and in need of tidying up and painting.
I still need to make a bracket to mount the rear brake M/C, but it's getting there.
Quote from: Nudie on December 27, 2017, 03:03:21 AM
I thought I might as well start a build thread for my attempt at "Adventurising" my GS500. I'm normally hopeless at taking photos as I work on my bikes, so starting this thread will maybe spur me on to make a record of work done.
The extra GS in the title of this thread is a cheeky acknowledgement of the BMW Adventure bikes (of which I'm a big fan).
At this point a little background might be helpful. Myself and my brother are involved in a charity ride each year called the Scrapheap Adventure Ride which raises money for Down syndrome NSW. The idea is that you pick up a bike for less than $1,000, get it roadworthy and ride it to the designated meeting point, which is in a different place each year. It's always an out of the way area that requires a bit of an "adventure" to get there. It's up to the individuals to raise donations and there is always competition amongst teams to raise the most! In the past I've ridden Postie bikes, an '81 DR500 with a homemade sidecar and an ER5 with knobbies.
This time I picked up a 2006 GS500 that has been dropped on its RH side for $500. I picked up the parts needed to get it running for about $150. It fired up OK and ran sweet, but instead of going for a ride around the block to make sure everything is fine I started pulling it apart. So I'm hoping it grabs all gears and doesn't have any issues. It's only showing about 22,000 kms so it really shouldn't have too many dramas.
So far I've fitted an SV650 rear shock which has raised the rear about 85mm. I picked up a DL650 front wheel because I like the idea of running tubeless tyres and the 19" rim gives me heaps of options for adventure type tyres. I found a DRZ400 front end for $80 on
fleabay and had a friend modify the GS steering stem to fit the DRZ triple clamps. But when I fitted it to the bike the gap between the fork legs wasn't wide enough for the wheel. So I pulled the trigger on a DL1000 front end (that almost cost the same as the purchase price of the bike). Only thing is now I have to machine the wheel to take bigger bearings to suit the larger axle of the 1000.
I had a bit of time in the shed today and made a timber mock up of a bracket that will move the footpegs forward 125mm and down about 80mm. I'm 6'3" and will appreciate a bit extra legroom. This bike will have heaps of ground clearance, so lowering the 'pegs shouldn't cause an issue.
There's heaps more to do, but the ride isn't until October '18.
(https://i.imgur.com/X3G7Me6.jpg)
Why not use the DRZ400's wheel ?
Cool.
Buddha.
It would be the easy way out. But I am keen to use tubeless tyres front and rear. From experience, it takes longer to pump up the tyre than to fix a puncture in a tubeless tyre.
Brake M/C mounted
(https://i.imgur.com/FgzZSH6.jpg)
Trial fit the heal guard
(https://i.imgur.com/R4Qsr88.jpg)
I just remembered you were doing the scrapheap challenge. Where is it this year. I have been meaning to do this for ages.
Where are you based is Aus?
Hi Greg, I live down the coast from Sydney.
This year's Scrapheap location hasn't been announced yet. All I've got from Perry the organiser is that we'll need long range fuel tanks. I guess that means we'll be going way out west! It's usually announced around Easter each year, but I'm trying to get my bike ready a bit early.
Can't use my GS500 as I paid 1200 for it. Have to find a crappier bike for it I guess.
You can still use it. This years ride has just been announced and it's $100 to register for Scrappers or regular bikes.
Oh by the way, Pooncarie in SW NSW is this years target. Its the middle of nowhere, but thats the point!
I have been away for nearly a month so no updates til now. Its not all bad, I've done nearly 5,000 kms through Victoria and Tasmania on my BMW so don't go thinking Im struggling.
Anyway, on to the GS progress.
(https://i.imgur.com/CHzvzVq.jpg)
Today I made the bracket to move the left footpeg forward and down. If I get the time tomorrow I should get it fitted.
Are you retired?
Do you want a couple of heel plates made from fibreglass/ innegra? I was going to experiment with them, rather than the carbon ones I made, to see what sort of finish I end up with. Innegra can be a bit hairy ( literally) . I am keeping the carbons on mine, but just want to see what sort of result it gives.
Retired? I wish. I'm divorced and my kids have grown up so when I take leave its all me time.
Innegra? I've never heard of it. I'm not sure yet what I'm doing with the heel plates yet. When its all painted and the bolts all match I may still use the original ones, but that's future Nudie's problem. I'll let him worry about it.
Innegra is a new polypropylene cloth. stronger and lighter than glass, almost as light as carbon on cloth form. Wets better than Ccarbon. doesn't shatter like carbon. It will probably be mandated as a companion latup in carbon parts in Formula one because it stops carbonfibre fron massively shattering. Doesn't finish well iif used in outside layers so you usually have to lay glass or carbon over it.
All good. Just asking.
Thanks. I was going to google it earlier, but I went riding (Hyabusa), washed my car then went to the pub. So you can see I didnt have time.
I like your priorities...
Left side fitted. Side stand will clear when I shorten the bolt a bit. Still need to make a brace to the stand switch bolts and work out how to fit a remote gear lever. But we're getting there.
(https://i.imgur.com/IcjdVv2.jpg)
Sorry about all the crappy phone pics
I can't believe it's been over a month since I last posted, but work has kept me busy.
I got the front wheel mounted today (sorry no photos, my computer and my phone aren't talking at the mo) after some annoying hold ups. As I'm using DL1000 forks and a DL650 wheel, there is an issue getting bearings that suit both the wheel and the axle. In the end I had to get custom bearings made, but they worked out cheaper than standard bearings. Then I needed to fab a spacer for inside the wheel between the bearings. Anyway it's all fitted up and there's only the left side spacer where the speedo sender would be to make.
Then it's onto the gear lever, then headlights, then a front guard, then a speedo, then who knows? I haven't thought that far ahead!
I think I've kind of worked out the gear lever. All mocked up, but there's a bit of tidying up to do yet. Used the original lever cut down and a cheap one off Ebay with a couple of 6mm rose joints for the "connector" rod. I'll know how close I got it when I can actually ride it, then adjust to suit.
(https://i.imgur.com/3nfZdoI.jpg)
Here's a gratuitous photo of the front wheel finally fitted
(https://i.imgur.com/l3IMv9A.jpg)
That's interesting shifter! ! me likey
Nice solution! And the front end looks great.
Well it's been a while since I updated. Not a lot has changed, but I've come up with some steering stops. Under the bottom triple clamp there is a pair of moulded "bits" that are in about the right place. So I drilled a small hole through them and measured it up. They looked about right, so I drilled them out to 8mm (close enough to 3/8" for the US members) and fitted an 8mm set screw with a threaded coupler and bolted them on. Works a treat! Just dumb luck that it all lines up OK.
(https://i.imgur.com/nx4LQfO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bevf31p.jpg)
I also remade the left foot peg bracket to give some more support for the peg.
(https://i.imgur.com/tKyLJgs.jpg)
I really should try harder to get this thing on the road...
Oh yeah, I bought some MX 'bars for it too!
(https://i.imgur.com/xYVbKd1.jpg)
"I really should try harder to get this thing on the road..."
yea come on!
:tongue2:
Looks like a proper bike now with two tyres!
(https://i.imgur.com/Dl1VAP7.jpg)
Dont freak out, the headlight and "Rallye" fairing are a mock up to give me some ideas for lights. Its the original headlight with a fairing from a previous scrapper. Not sure what I'm going with just yet, but low co$t is the main consideration.
I am beyond envious of your peg/shifter work. LMK if you want to make more to sell.
Quote from: mr72 on May 02, 2018, 12:24:02 PM
I am beyond envious of your peg/shifter work. LMK if you want to make more to sell.
That's a pretty big compliment, thanks.
I think I read somewhere that Michelangelo used beer boxes to get the right shape before starting any of his masterpieces. So if it's good enough for him......
(https://i.imgur.com/paCR8br.jpg)
"I think I read somewhere that Michelangelo used beer boxes to get the right shape before starting any of his masterpieces. So if it's good enough for him......"
I think you are thinking of Andy Warhol. Michaelangelo was Italian...he used wine casks...
Polyureathane sheeting is a brilliant material for prototyping.
Ahh Warhol! I always get them mixed up! Their work is so similar :dunno_black:
So true...
I spent all bloody day making a frame to mount the headlights. It's such a pain in the arse measuring, bending, fitting, swearing, making another, repeat a few times until you get one right. Then start again! Anyway Im fairly happy with it at this stage. I'll probably end up removing the bolts and riveting it instead.
(https://i.imgur.com/mlcdkxC.jpg)
Next I'm thinking of making a fibreglass fairing with a perspex screen on top. But I'm leaving this morning for work for a few days, so I'll have a bit of time to mull it over in my head and see what comes out
Maybe not such a problem on the GS, as it isn't a bad vibrator, but extruded Al is notorious for cracking at the join edges. Especially if you have poprivetted it, here is a tip you may find useful. Lay 2 or 3 carbon fibre or glass ( or combination) over the sides of the frame/s that have the bulge on them . You can do both. It takes the vibration loads and spreads them through the the layers and dampens the fatigue producing stuff. For that I would use tape rather than cloth as less wastage. Once you trim it it will look pretty good as well. Don't forget you have to use epxoy for carbon not polyester ( that's for anybody that is eating this , as it sounds like you may know that already.
You need to clean and sand pretty well though, or the bond tends to be a bit crappy.
I was thinking if I didn't bond it to the frame, rather make it seperate and screw/bolt it on they would support each other and lessen the amount of vibration. It would also make it easier to adjust lights, access wiring etc if the fairing could be removed without taking off the frame.
Keep in mind I'm a crane driver, not an automotive engineer!
I made (and tested lol) these engine protection bars a few years back for another Scrapheap bike, but they were removed before the bike was sold. I remembered the other day that they were still in the shed. So, looks like with a little tweaking they will save me a heap of work making new ones.
(https://i.imgur.com/8PxlAmM.jpg)
The middle and bottom frame clamps were made for a round frame, so will have to be squared off. The upper lug that bolts on with the engine bolt, just needs to be cut off and welded back on at the right orientation. I haven't tried yet, but I hope the R/H side is just as easy!
The crash bars were originally made for a Kawasaki ER5 and I'm amazed by how similar the two bikes are.
P.S. I'm sorry if I'm not allowed to mention that OTHER bike here
I got a bit of fibreglassing done today. I really don't know what I'm doing, but it's fun trying.
(https://i.imgur.com/AWjZ47j.jpg)
"swearing"
(https://www.motohouston.com/forums/images/smilies/laughing6.gif)
good stuff here! Hope you keep at it! Really cool to see your progress,...
So after 4 layers of glass, it was dry enough and I couldn't help myself so I peeled it off and started playing around. It looks like this now.
(https://i.imgur.com/bNcOvSs.jpg)
Don't judge me too harshly, it's a work in progress. I still have to work out the final shape, then smooth it out with body filler. I've got a guy who will paint it for me when I finish all the other jobs off. But before then I have an idea for a clear screen. Like everything else, I'll be making it up as I go.
I always love me a fiberglass project!! It's amazing stuff, for sure.
Sweet progress, can't wait to see more :cheers:
" I was thinking if I didn't bond it to the frame, rather make it seperate and screw/bolt it on they would support each other and lessen the amount of vibration"
I wasn't suggesting you bond it to each other, rather that you use a layup to bond the frame itself together and speard the "hard points" where the vibration cracks the frame.
You are right though, the separate glass piece will help dampen the vibrations , but the vibration passing along the aluminium frame is what cracks it.
I like what you are doing though. Should be interesting and effective.
Ahh that makes more sense. Thanks, I did think about using an adhesive on all the joined surfaces. A type of sealant/adhesive that would keep some of its flexibility to help with the vibration, but in the end we'll just have to see how it goes.
Thanks for your help all the same.
Im less than impressed at the shape of the opening for the lights. It was a shitfight trying to work out where to cut the bloody thing. So I decided a bezel (if that's the right word) would cover up my mistakes. First I made a template in cardboard, then trace it onto some plastic panelling stuff that has been taking up space in the shed.
(https://i.imgur.com/AJFFTXB.jpg)
I've cut it out, but you'll have to wait til I get a bit of shaping done on the fairing. Then I'll take a pic and post it.
By the way, fibreglassing is painful. My hands are killing me. It's like electricity, you can't see it, but it hurts!
So this is were it's up to at the mo'. Filling, sanding, filling, sanding etc. Im happy with the bezel, it seems to hide most of my mistakes.
(https://i.imgur.com/AijvhZV.jpg)
More filling, sanding and it might look finished.
Great work!
Work got pushed back a few days so I spent a bit of time in the shed. Almost finished the fibreglassing, maybe a bit more shaping and made a screen from some perspex I had. Not 100% happy with the shape, so some more work is required. I might go on to something else and come back to it later.
(https://i.imgur.com/IpsdMVt.jpg)
Keep in mind that it needs paint and all the bolts will be Allen head, so it will look different when finished.
man that's alot of work right there,....respect!
Nice work. Looks effective . Should work for the purpose.
I suspect you are going to get some vortex shedding off the back of the screen.
Two things may be worth considering . A bit more angle back to direct some of the flow over you head, and spacing the screen away about 10-15mm from the fairing form. That will allow some flow up the inside and help reduce any vortex shed. It will also help stop it misting and also help demist it if is already is. That will reduce the drag considerably.
Are you going to build a lower form as well?
Yes I did consider spacing it out a bit to reduce buffeting, both my BMW and my brothers Triumph Tiger have a gap at the bottom of the screen for that purpose. But its still a work in progress. I'm getting sick of looking at it, so it's time to move on to something else, like removing and replacing the rear bodywork maybe.
Well, I won't be stuffing around with the rear bodywork. After removing it I realised that the L/H side would be easy, but the R/H side would be a heap of work for little gain. What I wanted to do was slim it down to make fitting pannier racks a bit easier.
(https://i.imgur.com/vxfFKTi.jpg)
But making new, slimmer bodywork would mean moving all of this stuff.
(https://i.imgur.com/FQ41NUV.jpg)
For the amount of work involved, it's just not worth it. If I was trying to make a super special Rallye bike I'd put the work in, but I'm making a $500 bike a bit more suited to adventure riding with the aim of raising money for charity, not win the Dakar race.
The mounts for the rear handle are quite strong and make a great base for a real rack . If you remove the stock rear plastics it allows you to use the nice narrow rear frame to mount rack, paniers or fuel containers uquite close in. That plus there are a heap of fastening points on the frame already.
I think the GS500 rear end is a lot thinner than it looks. If that makes any sense.
I have a Hepco & Becker rear pannier rack with 30L side cases that look enormous from the back but when I actually measure the distance from the centerline of the bike they don't stick out any farther than the bar ends of my handlebars.
If I did take off the rear bodywork I'd really only lose about 40-50mm each side, so I'm not worried about it. I will be using the pillion grab handle mount for the rear rack. First I've got to finish my home made pipe bender. It's been a work in progress for a while now.
Hi Nudie I realy love your mod.
I whish to modify my own gse the same way.
Is it possible for you to make a drawing with the size for your footpegs lowering plate ??
Also what material do you use and what thickness ?
Thanks
Sam
Hi Sam, yes I can draw you a plan. I'm away from home until probably Wednesday, so I hope you can wait til then and I'll measure it up for you. The material is 10mmx100mm aluminium stock with 25mmx25mm aluminium stock for the spacer. I started by roughly measuring it all up, then making a plywood template to ensure everything fits. Then cut the final shape in ally.
I hope that helps.
Great,
So first thing I have to do is supply some aluminium.
Well I got a bit done over the last few days. Finally got around to getting a rear tyre. So its finally off the work stand. Fitted a new chain and sprockets too.
(https://i.imgur.com/pu8rcYf.jpg)
Footpeg brackets painted and fitted along with crash bars.
(https://i.imgur.com/6US5S55.jpg)
The side stand was way too short since the bike was raised about 80mm. So I had another stand laying around and chopped the two to make a longer one.
(https://i.imgur.com/7tRuWKm.jpg)
Splashing a bit of paint on it makes it almost look like I haven't had my way with it.
(https://i.imgur.com/p4a9w25.jpg)
Sorry Sam95 I haven't had a chance to draw up a plan for the footpeg brackets yet.
Started making a dash panel to mount the new digital gauges, switches etc.
(https://i.imgur.com/e66ehLo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/J36Vfum.jpg)
I went with a plastic sheet for the dash because that's what I had here. Mounted the digital dash too.
Looks awesome!
Totally like a travel enduro :D
It looks very nice.
I received aluminium last week. I hope to make my modification in july.
Hi Sam, I'm sorry that I haven't had a chance to post any details of the brackets I made. Work has kept me really busy lately. I can't believe they expect me to EARN my pay :dunno_black:
I'll try and get on to it this week.
you might check out the mesh sides I made over in my project thread, could be a solution for covering the side gaps and the reg/rect etc. while keeping the profile down. And it was pretty easy and very cheap.
Quote from: Nudie on June 09, 2018, 03:53:14 AM
Started making a dash panel to mount the new digital gauges, switches etc.
(https://i.imgur.com/e66ehLo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/J36Vfum.jpg)
I went with a plastic sheet for the dash because that's what I had here. Mounted the digital dash too.
where did you get the rpm from? i got from the same cable than in stock but they are not very accurate sometimes
For a he moment I've picked up the tacho signal by wrapping the signal wire around the L/H spark plug lead. No idea how accurate it is yet because I haven't had it running. Fingers crossed it will be okay.
Quote from: sam95 on July 01, 2018, 06:10:13 AM
It looks very nice.
I received aluminium last week. I hope to make my modification in july.
Hi Sam, I'm sorry that I haven't had a chance to draw up a plan of the brackets but I've been away a lot working. I haven't even been riding as much as I normally do!
However if you look at the photos that I've posted you can work out easily what I've done. I started out by making plywood versions first to see how it would fit. Even if you draw them up and cut them out of cardboard to get the measurement correct then plywood it might be easier.
Just in case anyone is still interested, I rode it around the block yesterday! Bike feels really good. Everything works, lights, brakes the lot! Engine is smooth and quiet, all gears engage and no unusual noises. I was a little wary because I never rode the bike before I started pulling it apart and working on it. But I'm really happy now. Next weekend I'll pull it back apart and send the bits off to be painted and after that I'll get a few more photos up. :woohoo:
rocking update! Can't wait to see it finished!
Well I'm ecstatic! Ive got the bike registered and took it out today for its maiden voyage (so to speak).
(https://i.imgur.com/QEwcKwr.jpg)
Everything works as it should and nothing as it shouldn't. I'll be doing a few more shake down runs to confirm reliability and fuel consumption etc. But for now I'm really happy with it!
Servus,
Great Work, Respect :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:
Amazing job. Yours may be my favorite GS500 build I have ever seen. Any plans for hand guard or skid plate?
Thanks guys, very kind of you both.
Handgaurds were painted this afternoon and are on the drying rack (actually hanging on a piece of wire from the 'bars of my Hayabusa). I haven't put a lot of thought into a bash plate as yet. It may be a good idea to protect the engine/exhausts from stones, but I'm not planning on jumping logs etc. I spent this afternoon taking the GPS off the Beemer and fitting it to the GS. I'm hoping I won't need it for the Scrapheap ride, but who knows?! Like horsepower, it's better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it!
Took it on the dirt today for the first time. I was actually surprised by how well it went. I was expecting it to be a bit vague in the way it rode, but it felt really smooth and solid. The road surface was good gravel with no built up loose stones, so it may be a different story in loose gravel or sand. It does feel a bit top heavy at take off, but its fine once underway.
(https://i.imgur.com/EZtbgyp.jpg)
Did a river crossing too. Didn't drown.
Looks awesome and its cool to see you actually riding it the way an ADV bike should. Nice work mate.
All loaded up and ready to roll. We're leaving in the morning on this years Scrapheap Adventure Ride. This is the whole reason That I bought this bike and turned it into what it is. Fingers crossed for a fun ride.
(https://i.imgur.com/R45QSIA.jpg)
I won't be back for a week so updates then I guess.
PS If anyone is in a position to throw a couple of dollars in for a good cause it would be greatly appreciated. All donations over $2 are tax deductible (If you're an Aust tax payer) and every cent goes directly to Down syndrome NSW.
Just click here https://www.mycause.com.au/page/172240/oldslow
Well Scrapheap 2018 is done and dusted. We got home yesterday after a week and 2,500klms on the bikes. We saw some awesome scenery and had a blast with a great bunch of people. My appreciation of this little GS has grown immeasurably. It ran perfectly the whole time and never skipped a beat. It developed a slight oil leak but other than that there's absolutely nothing wrong with it!
(https://i.imgur.com/1eTQ7RR.jpg)
This was taken on the road into Lake Mungo National Park. The road was being graded ahead of us after a bit of rain damage a few days before (lucky for us!). As well as my bike, there is my brother's XF 650 Freewind (a little known DR650 variant) and a friends XT600. Each of them were bought for $500 and have had various amounts of work done to get them roadworthy.
Never heard of the DR650 variant. I guess it never made it to the USA. Looks like a Honda Dominator NX650.
What's your plan for the bike now that the event is over? I must admit I'm still drooling over many of the parts on your bike.
I'm not really sure what I'm going to do with it now. I don't need another adventure bike (I've already got an R1200GS) but if I keep it, I might end up building a sidecar for it just for shits and giggles. If anyone can steer me towards some information about fitting a sidecar to a GS it just might happen!