I have charged my battery, and tested it, it was fine. Tried to test the stator, and rectifier, didn't really get a reading, stupidly took the bike for a ride, got 66km away, and the bike died, flat battery, had to clutch it, and prey i make it back home.
I have got the sh!&s with the bike, as I'm yet to enjoy a ride on the thing since i got it. Now, I plan on changing the stator, are they hard to do? Any dramas i need to be aware of? I will also be replacing my rectifier soon after, so i can then eliminate those from the equation.
You should test the stator properly first as it's more likely your battery was cactus, is it a wet cell lead acid? Having it charged doesn't necessarily mean it's good. I let my old wet cell get a bit low, I refilled it and it still took a good charge but suddenly died when I was out. Also check all the contacts, you'll need a reliable multimeter too, I used a cheapie that didn't give me good readings, I thought the stator was no good but I bought a cheap Fluke 101 and discovered it was the multimeter not the stator that was the problem. Good luck.
Cant you go to an auto electrician. They have every thing needed to find your problem and would not charge very much. The motorcycle is not at fault here, there is something wrong and you as the owner have to find what it is and fix it. If you start out on a ride and the battery goes flat then it is not getting charged as you ride along. Electrical problems can be very frustrating to track down. Do you have a workshop manual. I downloaded a free workshop manual and found that it was nearly useless as the pictures were just mainly black and showed no small details. I went on eBay and bought a proper book workshop manual which is clear and worth every cent that I payed for it. It is best that before you pay money on parts to change things, find out if the parts that are already there are working or not. Once you are over this hump the motorcycle should purr along for many years to come. They are a good motorcycle and if ridden properly give a very long service life.
If you are confident (because of testing!) that the battery is good, then the problem has to be the charging system.
Far and away most likely is that the connector between the stator and the regulator/rectifier is melted. You will easily discover that if you go through the standard procedure of testing the charging system which is outlined in the FSM and all over the internet. Just do a search and find the procedure. At the very least, while the bike is running and revving above 3K rpms you should get over 14VDC at the battery terminals. If so, it is charging. If you are getting less than about 13.8V then it will not charge. Then you just follow the wires back to the stator, from the battery terminals to the reg/rect to the stator.
In order of probability of failure, it is 1. battery 2. melted connector 3. regulator/rectifier is bad 4-99. a myriad of other things and 100. stator is bad. But it's easy to test and know the answer. You need an AC/DC voltmeter or a standard cheap multimeter to do this. It is not a difficult to do at all, takes like 10 minutes. You will need a fully charged battery to start the bike so you can do the test as most of the testing is with the bike running, and you'll need to be able to start/stop the engine a few times during the procedure.
Seriously, this is probably even in the FAQ on this site. But what's not in the FAQ is that the wiring from the r/r to the stator is undersized so there is a LOT of heat in that wire and it tends to melt the connector. There's a redundant connector between the r/r and the stator. The stator ends in three bullet-style connectors, and there's a wiring pigtail with these three bullet connectors on one end and an automotive style plastic body connector on the other, this is the side that connects to the r/r. Cheap easy way to fix this is to just chop the plastic molex connector off of the regulator/rectifier's stator wire and crimp on three mating bullet connectors, enabling you to completely toss the pigtail and the melted connector along with it, plus eliminating about a foot of undersized wire and the associated extra resistance and heat.