Multiple components and failing, and I'm confused. Here's a run down:
1. Installed new front turn signals (EDIT: bulb, not LED), tested all four turn signals and they passed. Neutral light, horn, and headlights work
2. Installed LED indicators in tach/speedo housing, tested and passed
3. Turned it over and went for a ride. Now all turn signals now fail. Ignition, neutral light, horn, and headlights work
4. Went for another ride. All turn signals still fail and now horn fails. Ignition, neutral light, and headlights work.
The only other non-OEM electronics I added were a nautical horn w/harness, that I added two years ago, but it never caused problems. It did come with a 30A relay that I thought could have caused this, but I replaced that and it didn't help. When I try to turn that on, the relay just clicks. I also tested continuity to the turn signals and they're good. Another thing I should note is that during this time, I had put my battery one the tender once a day as precaution, because I was tuning the carbs and had to turn it over alot, didnt want to kill the battery. It was to solid green light within an hour each time though.
If you have LED turn lights and LED dash lights (turn signal indicator) then you have to deal with the turn signal relay and adding diodes to the turn signal indicator to get it to work. Also if the LEDs you use don't have dropping resistors then this can cause an issue.
Given that all of the lights seem to be out, did you check the fuse?
Quote from: mr72 on March 29, 2018, 11:27:43 AM
If you have LED turn lights
The turn signals are not LED, standard bulbs
Quote from: mr72 on March 29, 2018, 11:27:43 AM
and LED dash lights (turn signal indicator)
the indicators are LED, and here's what I put in. Do I still have to add the diode?:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B4M2HV8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Quote from: mr72 on March 29, 2018, 11:27:43 AM
Given that all of the lights seem to be out, did you check the fuse?
I visually inspected both fuses that I know of, the one OEM one close to the battery, and the non-OEM connected to the nautical horn harness, both look good.
Yes you need diodes added and rewire the socket of the turn signal indicator if you use an LED. Try putting an ordinary bulb in there and see if the problem goes away.
You may have burned out a bulb causing all of the turn signals to not work. Thee indicator is in series with the bulb and left/right is a polarity switch with the factory setup. Put an LED in there and you get a short when turn signals run one way potentially burning out bulbs, and you get an open on the other way.
See this post for a description of how to rewire the turn signal lamp dash socket so it will work with an LED. Note you'll need a pair of 1N4001 diodes and a soldering iron, heat shrink, etc.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=46823.msg750722#msg750722
Quote from: mr72 on March 29, 2018, 11:47:55 AM
Yes you need diodes added and rewire the socket of the turn signal indicator if you use an LED.
Thanks a million man, electronics is a big weak spot for me and this was a big help. I think I'll swap regular bulbs back in instead of using the LED re-wire
Actually a thought.
Considering the progressive nature of the fails you may want to check your fuses and any rewiring as you may have a short on the power side or a break on the earth side.
I just replaced all bulbs with new standard, non-LED. I also removed the new turn signals from the equation by disconnecting them and putting wire into the female ends, crossing them over. The problem still exists. The only grounds I know of go to the battery, where the other others?
Quote from: gregjet on March 29, 2018, 01:50:16 PM
check your fuses and any rewiring
seems like the next right thing, thanks
The later models have a earth circuit ( black/white). Worth checking it's connections and run as well.
Quote from: gregjet on March 29, 2018, 07:38:11 PM
The later models have a earth circuit ( black/white). Worth checking it's connections and run as well.
I may be on the right track. I just opened up the two-pin turn signal relay and found that one of the terminal was very rusty. I scraped the male end clean, but there's plenty of rust still in the female side. I then crossed it over using a paperclip, powered on, and tested both R/L turn signals, and horn. Horn did not work, but it did click the relay in its wiring harness. Bulbs on right side lit up when I blinker right, bulbs on left side didn't when I blinker left. Then I lost all power to the bike. I checked all three fuses: one connected with the horn relay is good, the one closest to the battery (not sure what that's for) is good, HOWEVER, the 20A fuse below the right passenger side is shot. I replaced that and did the same test, burned the second fuse out.
My thoughts:
(1) I proved that the turn signal relay is dead because otherwise the right turn signals would have lit up with the relay in place. I should replace the relay and clean the female side.
(2) there's something wrong with either the left turn signal wiring or bulbs, otherwise they would have lit up with the cross-over test
(3) Im passing > 20A in a place I shouldn't. Im lost with this one
Any feedback is appreciated
Check none of the blinker power wires are pinched between something to earth. VERY common problem.
Quote from: gregjet on March 31, 2018, 12:58:05 PM
Check none of the blinker power wires are pinched between something to earth. VERY common problem.
As it turns out, I had three separate problems. First was that the turn signal relay was shot. When I measured it I got > 1 megaohm, which I suppose it means it was stuck open? I bought a new one for $6 and it measured 38 ohms, swapped it out and the right blinker worked. Second problem was the left blinker. So I took an old blinker and swapped it with the left that wasn't working and it passed. Dismantled the problematic one and found that the crimp connector thing wasn't working right, because if I jammed a raw wire all the way in, it blinked. So now the turn signal circuit is totally fixed. Third issue is the horn. It's not the control switch because it fires the relay when I hit it. So working backwards, I took uninstalled the horn itself and connected it directly to the battery and it works. So, I think the only remaining issue is a poor connection in the horn wiring harness.
I also don't understand what burned out the main 20A fuse, but I replaced it with new and it stayed.