Hi guys, going to be doing a carb clean and rebuild so I'm researching what I need. It's my first time trying it. I'm going to be following along to a few video tutorials and one blog.
I was wondering, should I really get bigger jets like the blog says:
"Replace the pilot jet with a new pilot jet, and go up one size from stock. This is a #40 for the '89-00 bikes and a #20 for the '01+. Don't bother trying to clean or reuse the old ones. They are easily clogged and cheap to replace."
https://joshkarnes.blogspot.ie/2017/09/fixing-common-gs500-carburetor-issues.html
I have an 00 GS500e
And do you know if this the rebuild kit I'll need:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1989-00-Suzuki-Carburetor-Carb-Repair-Rebuild-2-kits-gs500-gs500e-needle-oring/352222812752?hash=item52021d9a50:g:wi0AAOSwu4hazt-i
(https://i.imgur.com/Y1epPpM.png)
Is there any store you would recommend get a different one?
Does that kit include the jets or do I need to buy them separately? Where should I buy them?
Was also wondering whether I should get one of these carb sync tools and sync the carbs with it as part of the job?
I never see it mentioned in the tutorials but there are seperate videos on doing that job.
(https://i.imgur.com/6Uj54Up.png)
Guess I need some JIS screwdrivers but not sure what size I need. Sizing on them seems strange.
One video on doing the carbs on a cb500 suggested getting a P2x150 and a p3x150.
Any advice on that for the GS?
Get an impact driver, or just wrench the screws off with grips then throw them away and replace with allen head bolts. Use the bolts with a deep set hex hole and little grooves on the side like coins, easier to handle than the dome head bolts with a smaller hex hole.
Go with a home made man-o-metre plenty of vids on you tube. just two bottles and some clear tubing.
I don't know. Looks like by the time I bought all the stuff to build this and then build it, it would have been easier to just buy the tool. :laugh:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jVl-0PdrRk
It's pretty easy, use two water bottles with screw caps. Filled halfway with coloured water. make two holes in each cap U shaped tube connects the two bottles and reaches down to the bottom. The other hole in each lid has one tube that goes to each vacuum port on the carburettor and only extends a little way past the cap. Seal the tops with epoxy resin or even blu tac will probably do the job.
(https://s31.postimg.cc/pkasdfg3f/mano.jpg)
You don't need either to synch the carbs. Look to a bright spot and adjust the idle screw to set the crescent of light as thin as possible, and then adjust the butterflies to be equal. That's a lot easier if you have the carbs off, which you would when installing a rebuild kit.
BTW you sure you need a rebuild kit ? is the float gasket leaking ? Else you're better off buying O rings or the float needle if its bad.
Cool.
Buddha.
You probably don't need the float bowl gasket. The set is overpriced for what you will get. Worthwhile instead to get new intake boot o-rings and replace those while the carbs are off.
Look here for o-rings on the cheap: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/for_sale_dr350_orings.html
BTW that's my blog. Glad it is helping some folks. I am pretty sure I recommend replacing the intake boot o-rings on the blog post :)
Quote from: mr72 on April 24, 2018, 04:55:23 AM
You probably don't need the float bowl gasket. The set is overpriced for what you will get. Worthwhile instead to get new intake boot o-rings and replace those while the carbs are off.
Look here for o-rings on the cheap: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/for_sale_dr350_orings.html
BTW that's my blog. Glad it is helping some folks. I am pretty sure I recommend replacing the intake boot o-rings on the blog post :)
Thanks for the help and blog post.
Those kits seemed overpriced alright. Maybe I can get it cheaper somewhere else. I may need the float bowl gaskets so I'd prefer to have them in case I do need them and then I might as well change them anyway. That link you provided is for a DR350? Are they the same o-rings used in the GS500?
Do you know where I could buy jets and do I really need to get the bigger size or why are you recommending that?
The DR 350 has the same carb as the GS500 carbs. Just half as many. The jets are different and maybe needles but the o-rings are the same.
I would replace the float needle valves (not necessarily the "seat" .. brass part) as a just-in-case, but in neither set of my ancient and abused carbs did the float bowl gaskets leak so I don't see the need.
You will need to jet up at least the pilot jet, depending on year, to either a 20 or a 40. It won't hurt to bump the main jet up a size as well. The Mk1 carbs ('89-00) work great with 40/125 jetting, which is one size larger than stock on both. Plus the pilot jet is hard to clean and easy to replace, and cheap.
You can get jets anywhere, even some on this forum sell them. eBay, amazon, Bikebandit, etc. Try to get "genuine" Mikuni branded jets, mostly because the size and profile is a known quantity.
Including jets and intake boot o-rings you should be able to get everything for both carbs for under $40, under $30 if you are a careful shopper. But if someone packages a kit for $50 then I think it'd be worth it to not have to hunt it all down. However no kits include the intake boot o-rings and they are a dealer only part probably cost $4/each.
All in all it's still cheap and best to do it all at once.
A set of JIS screwdrivers will save you a lot of headache. I got screwdriver bits from here (https://www.vesseltools.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_category_id=263&virtuemart_product_id=2882&Itemid=1195). The shipping was more than the bits, but the bits fit the screws perfectly.
If you have an ultrasonic cleaner handy the jets are easy to clean. Otherwise, as suggested above, they are inexpensive to replace.
Check to see if your throttle shaft seals have been weeping. You can tell by discoloration/residue built up around them. If you need new seals I found Suzuki 13651-51010 fit properly on my '02. They should fit your '00. If you need to replace them removing the carb butterflies takes a little patience: you need to file down the peened end of the screws. The JIS screwdrivers really make a difference here. Plan on installing new butterfly screws with some red Loctite. Suzuki butterfly screws are 13604-44080, but can be found aftermarket for less.
The Motion Pro sync tool is great, but an additional expense. I bench sync'd my GS500 carbs by measuring the butterfly height with digital calipers. Measure one then use the sync screw to adjust the other. She purrs with just the bench sync. :)
buy jets and allen head bolts from The Buddha, then get o-rings from thisoldtractor,
and drill out the brass plug covering the pilot mixture screw, as it allows you to dial that circuit in nicely, plus you'll look cool doing it when you stop for coffee on the group rides ;)
Quote from: alpo on April 24, 2018, 03:56:05 PM
A set of JIS screwdrivers will save you a lot of headache. I got screwdriver bits from here (https://www.vesseltools.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_category_id=263&virtuemart_product_id=2882&Itemid=1195). The shipping was more than the bits, but the bits fit the screws perfectly.
If you have an ultrasonic cleaner handy the jets are easy to clean. Otherwise, as suggested above, they are inexpensive to replace.
Check to see if your throttle shaft seals have been weeping. You can tell by discoloration/residue built up around them. If you need new seals I found Suzuki 13651-51010 fit properly on my '02. They should fit your '00. If you need to replace them removing the carb butterflies takes a little patience: you need to file down the peened end of the screws. The JIS screwdrivers really make a difference here. Plan on installing new butterfly screws with some red Loctite. Suzuki butterfly screws are 13604-44080, but can be found aftermarket for less.
The Motion Pro sync tool is great, but an additional expense. I bench sync'd my GS500 carbs by measuring the butterfly height with digital calipers. Measure one then use the sync screw to adjust the other. She purrs with just the bench sync. :)
measure the butterfly height with digital calipers?
I've seen people sticking needles in to gauge the gap but cannot picture being able to use calipers.
I've been looking at more videos of homemade carb sync tools.
If I get two meters of 5mm tubing like this (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/METRIC-Flexible-Nylon-Pneumatic-Air-Line-Tubing-Compressed-Airline-Plastic-Pipe/130985446247?hash=item1e7f574b67:m:mbpSAeGMWL4KNwdeaypR6bw), do you know what If I need anything to get the tubing attached to the carbs or will it just slide on nice and tight?
Thank-you very much for supplying the part numbers.
Quote from: Darkstar on April 24, 2018, 06:10:01 PM
buy jets and allen head bolts from The Buddha, then get o-rings from thisoldtractor,
and drill out the brass plug covering the pilot mixture screw, as it allows you to dial that circuit in nicely, plus you'll look cool doing it when you stop for coffee on the group rides ;)
Do they have a store or do I just PM them?
Is this the brass plug you are talking about?
(https://i.imgur.com/MJp14il.png)
That's not a plug, or at least not one you want to drill out. The plug he's talking about is on the BOTTOM of the carb, covers the pilot adjuster.
Hit the FAQs, watch some videos on adjusting the carbs, go read my blog post on it, it's easy to get your head around.
Quote from: Toner on April 24, 2018, 10:20:13 PM
measure the butterfly height with digital calipers?
I've seen people sticking needles in to gauge the gap but cannot picture being able to use calipers.
It works. Inexpensive digital calipers from Harbor Freight measure in the 100's, which is plenty accurate for this. With the carbs on your bench measure the distance from the top of one butterfly to the mouth of the carb. Adjust the sync screw until the same place on the other butterfly is the same distance.
Quote from: Toner on April 24, 2018, 10:20:13 PMThank-you very much for supplying the part numbers.
You're welcome. :cheers:
Quote from: Darkstar on April 24, 2018, 06:10:01 PM
buy jets and allen head bolts from The Buddha, then get o-rings from thisoldtractor,
and drill out the brass plug covering the pilot mixture screw, as it allows you to dial that circuit in nicely, plus you'll look cool doing it when you stop for coffee on the group rides ;)
I also have the O rings. If I can find em now - well that's the question.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: The Buddha on April 25, 2018, 04:40:22 PM
Quote from: Darkstar on April 24, 2018, 06:10:01 PM
buy jets and allen head bolts from The Buddha, then get o-rings from thisoldtractor,
and drill out the brass plug covering the pilot mixture screw, as it allows you to dial that circuit in nicely, plus you'll look cool doing it when you stop for coffee on the group rides ;)
I also have the O rings. If I can find em now - well that's the question.
Cool.
Buddha.
If I can get it all from you, that would be great. Do you have the one-sized-up jets Alpo is talking about?
If you have the boots too, even better.
Let me know, Cheers Buddha.
Quote from: The Buddha on April 24, 2018, 02:18:43 AM
You don't need either to synch the carbs. Look to a bright spot and adjust the idle screw to set the crescent of light as thin as possible, and then adjust the butterflies to be equal. That's a lot easier if you have the carbs off, which you would when installing a rebuild kit.
BTW you sure you need a rebuild kit ? is the float gasket leaking ? Else you're better off buying O rings or the float needle if its bad.
Cool.
Buddha.
I don't know what I need. I figured I'd just replace everything while it's off. The carb has probably never been off and cleaned in its 80,000 Km. I got the bike second-hand some years back.
I'll bench sync them as good as possible but I'm reading even then they may not be truly synced so I figured I'd do a carb sync while I am at it. Good to learn anyway.
The homemade carb syncer looks do-able.
Still just wondering if I buy some 5mm tubing like this (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/METRIC-Flexible-Nylon-Pneumatic-Air-Line-Tubing-Compressed-Airline-Plastic-Pipe/130985446247?hash=item1e7f574b67:m:mbpSAeGMWL4KNwdeaypR6bw), do I need anything else to attach the tubes to the vacuum ports?
@Still just wondering if I buy some 5mm tubing like this, do I need anything else to attach the tubes to the vacuum ports?
Well the vacuum ports do use a smaller diameter tube so you'll need to something to step it down.
Quote from: user11235813 on April 25, 2018, 08:19:28 PM
@Still just wondering if I buy some 5mm tubing like this, do I need anything else to attach the tubes to the vacuum ports?
Well the vacuum ports do use a smaller diameter tube so you'll need to something to step it down.
so how about I just get 12 foot of 3mm tubing like this site says?
http://www.650ccnd.com/mano.htm
so how about I just get 12 foot of 3mm tubing like this site says?
Even better!
I'd still prefer bottles rather than the setup you linked to.
This is the best and clearest video https://youtu.be/AvmVNrQpOao
Quote from: Toner on April 25, 2018, 05:55:15 PM
Quote from: The Buddha on April 25, 2018, 04:40:22 PM
Quote from: Darkstar on April 24, 2018, 06:10:01 PM
buy jets and allen head bolts from The Buddha, then get o-rings from thisoldtractor,
and drill out the brass plug covering the pilot mixture screw, as it allows you to dial that circuit in nicely, plus you'll look cool doing it when you stop for coffee on the group rides ;)
I also have the O rings. If I can find em now - well that's the question.
Cool.
Buddha.
If I can get it all from you, that would be great. Do you have the one-sized-up jets Alpo is talking about?
If you have the boots too, even better.
Let me know, Cheers Buddha.
I don't have boots. I have jets - you need 40/125 I believe, yes I have those. O rings I need to find em. I am not even sure if I can but will know by the weekend.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: Toner on April 24, 2018, 10:20:13 PM
measure the butterfly height with digital calipers?
I've seen people sticking needles in to gauge the gap but cannot picture being able to use calipers.
You can get calipers which are able to 'inverse measure', mine can. They just have some bits that stick out the other side of the caliper which you would put there instead.
Dial and digital calipers have a rod that extends out of the shaft as the jaws are opened. That rod provides the "inverse measurement", which is identical to the distance the jaws are open. I set the end of the shaft on the mouth of the carbs and used the rod to measure the butterfly openings.
Quote from: The Buddha on April 26, 2018, 05:38:19 AM
I don't have boots. I have jets - you need 40/125 I believe, yes I have those. O rings I need to find em. I am not even sure if I can but will know by the weekend.
Cool.
Buddha.
Thanks Buddha, Darkstar said you might have allen head bolts too. I'll get some of them too if you do.
Here's the most detailed instructions yet on actually building the manometer. I wondered how the bridging tube was filled but in fact it's ridiculously easy. https://youtu.be/7D_f05_a74Y
Quote from: The Buddha on April 24, 2018, 02:18:43 AM
You don't need either to synch the carbs. Look to a bright spot and adjust the idle screw to set the crescent of light as thin as possible, and then adjust the butterflies to be equal. That's a lot easier if you have the carbs off, which you would when installing a rebuild kit.
Cool.
Buddha.
This makes sense, and it's what I did on my bike as I don't have a sync tool.
But can the case be made that vacuum synching on a running motor is a significantly more accurate test? Assuming no clogged jets or intake boot cracks / leaks, would there be enough variability in the engine pistons / rings / valves etc that a dynamic test would give much different results? Or is the simpler static mechanical test pretty much adequate?
Yes, I recently installed a new set of carbs and I used the eyeball method to sync them, they feel good but I am curious to know how they really are. Will be checking next service.
I was reading the "Haynes Carburettor manual" that I picked up at a yard sale and they make an interesting point regarding the fact that on our carbs the "slide" is dependent on the butterfly opening, the diaphragm resistance, spring strength etc. The last ones can only be verified when running. I guess they are saying you can get close without gauges but it probably won't be perfect. Here is what they say (note that they use the terms CD for our carbs = "constant depression")
"On twin-cylinder, twin-carburettor installations, it will be
necessary to attend to the problems of synchronisation, or
balancing carburettors which are out of balance will result in
surprisingly rough running, and it is vitally important to ensure
that this is correct. Where CD carburettors are employed, it is
not really sufficient just to check that the two butterfly valves
open together, as this does not necessarily mean that the
piston/valve arrangements will do likewise. For this reason, it is
recommended that vacuum gauges are used to check the
depression in each inlet passage. For owners who wish to
attempt adjustment by feel, the following procedure should be
followed. "
Cheers
Hello hereennow!
You've been posting some really good info.
Would you mind posting the next section that follows:
"For owners who wish to attempt adjustment by feel, the following procedure should be followed. "
What's that procedure?
Hi Endopotential, sorry - missed your query. It's a few pages with some pictures, PM me with your email and I'll send you the material.
If Buddha isn't able to find the parts, do you think this set will work if I request a 125 main jet and a 40 pilot jet?
https://www.discountbikespares.co.uk/ourshop/prod_5449514-CARBURETTOR-REPAIR-KIT-GS500-K-Y.html
(https://i.imgur.com/DEp2gww.png)
I would have to inventory all of those o rings but at first blush it looks like it would work.
Many of those hard parts you won't have to replace because you usually don't even remove the parts when doing a carb cleaning. The rest, might as well put in new parts (including that pilot needle).
Quote from: Toner on May 01, 2018, 01:48:50 AM
If Buddha isn't able to find the parts, do you think this set will work if I request a 125 main jet and a 40 pilot jet?
https://www.discountbikespares.co.uk/ourshop/prod_5449514-CARBURETTOR-REPAIR-KIT-GS500-K-Y.html
(https://i.imgur.com/DEp2gww.png)
Going to have to make a purchase soon so I'm going to go ahead and buy two of these kits if I don't hear of any other option in the next day.
Something you need to consider. It's not mentioned in the Wiki and it is always overlooked by the 'carb experts' in here.
Because of the slight differences in the make up of fuel UK and other European bikes were jetted differently from USA bikes in the factory.
So while the advice given may work fine for 'full fat' gasoline it could well be a different story when it comes to our lead-free petrol.
This place will well you everything you need and give you reliable advice
http://www.nrp-carbs.co.uk/contact_us.htm
Quote from: sledge on May 06, 2018, 06:28:27 AM
Something you need to consider. It's not mentioned in the Wiki and it is always overlooked by the 'carb experts' in here.
Because of the slight differences in the make up of fuel UK and other European bikes were jetted differently from USA bikes in the factory.
So while the advice given may work fine for 'full fat' gasoline it could well be a different story when it comes to our lead-free petrol.
This place will well you everything you need and give you reliable advice
http://www.nrp-carbs.co.uk/contact_us.htm
Didn't think of that. Glad I hadn't ordered yet.
This site does say that I may need a #115 main jet for the EY model. I was going to get a #125.
https://www.discountbikespares.co.uk/ourshop/prod_5449514-CARBURETTOR-REPAIR-KIT-GS500-K-Y.html
It only says may need though. How would I know...
Quote from: sledge on May 06, 2018, 06:28:27 AM
Something you need to consider. It's not mentioned in the Wiki and it is always overlooked by the 'carb experts' in here.
Because of the slight differences in the make up of fuel UK and other European bikes were jetted differently from USA bikes in the factory.
So while the advice given may work fine for 'full fat' gasoline it could well be a different story when it comes to our lead-free petrol.
This place will well you everything you need and give you reliable advice
http://www.nrp-carbs.co.uk/contact_us.htm
Also noticed shape of their o-ring for the 2000 model is different to the shape in the discountbikespares store.
Wonder which is the one I need.
(https://i.imgur.com/I6zl7ZZ.jpg)
http://www.nrp-carbs.co.uk/shop/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=gs500&product_id=2853
My suggestion: Look at the parts fiche for your carb. In the US the float bowl gasket changed from the complicated one (13258-44B00) to the more simple one (13258-04F00) in 2001. Pulling the bowls on yours will tell you exactly which one you need.
I no longer bother overhauling carbs myself.
I send them to a specialist who completely strips and inspects them before cleaning them ultrasonicaly and rebuilding them with the required seals and gaskets. He is an ex professional race bike tech, is very very good at what he does and has an excellent reputation in the circles and can do a far better job than me.
He did a pair of 24 year old GS5 carbs for me a couple of months ago, £85, yes......£85!
They came back looking and performing like they did when they left the factory and parts that NEVER get mentioned in the write ups you read in here were inspected, example fuel inlet barbs, choke plunger seals and throttle shaft seals.
For that money it's not worth getting your hands dirty.
Ask for Matt.
http://m.harpers-ultrasonic.com
Quote from: sledge on May 07, 2018, 12:58:55 AM
I no longer bother overhauling carbs myself.
I send them to a specialist who completely strips and inspects them before cleaning them ultrasonicaly and rebuilding them with the required seals and gaskets. He is an ex professional race bike tech, is very very good at what he does and has an excellent reputation in the circles and can do a far better job than me.
He did a pair of 24 year old GS5 carbs for me a couple of months ago, £85, yes......£85!
They came back looking and performing like they did when they left the factory and parts that NEVER get mentioned in the write ups you read in her were inspected, example fuel inlet barbs, choke slider seals and throttle shaft seals.
For that money it's not worth getting your hands dirty.
Ask for Matt.
http://m.harpers-ultrasonic.com
That looks like it would be cheaper and less fuss alright all things added up.
I did want to do it myself so as to learn but I'm getting stressed out about it now.
Lots of differing complicated info around and then there are missing pictures in the threads that explain it etc because of that crappy photobucket site everyone use to use.
Don't fall for the hype' :dunno_black:
Changing the bowl gasket and a few o-rings is NOT a rebuild and it's certainly no guarantee the carb will be free of issues, fully serviceable or perform correctly afterwards.
And........if you are going to start altering the jetting its pointless unless the carb is in good order beforehand.
Ultrasonic cleaning is the way to go. A good cleaner is a very modest investment and works exceptionally well with a solution of Simple Green and distilled water. About an hour in a heated bath and the parts come out looking brand new. Plus it doesn't harm o-rings and other sensitive parts.
Nah.......you should be forcing bits of wire through the jets, not bothering with the o-rings you can't see, forgetting all about the throttle spindle and choke plunger seals, not bothering with a sync' not checking for slide and needle/emulsion tube wear.
That's how we do it in here :thumb:
LOL. I take mine to the local vicar who performs a carburettor exorcism.
Quote from: sledge on May 07, 2018, 10:22:51 PM
Nah.......you should be forcing bits of wire through the jets, not bothering with the o-rings you can't see, forgetting all about the throttle spindle and choke plunger seals, not bothering with a sync' not checking for slide and needle/emulsion tube wear.
That's how we do it in here :thumb:
Quote from: sledge on May 07, 2018, 12:58:55 AM
I no longer bother overhauling carbs myself.
I send them to a specialist who completely strips and inspects them before cleaning them ultrasonicaly and rebuilding them with the required seals and gaskets. He is an ex professional race bike tech, is very very good at what he does and has an excellent reputation in the circles and can do a far better job than me.
He did a pair of 24 year old GS5 carbs for me a couple of months ago, £85, yes......£85!
They came back looking and performing like they did when they left the factory and parts that NEVER get mentioned in the write ups you read in here were inspected, example fuel inlet barbs, choke plunger seals and throttle shaft seals.
For that money it's not worth getting your hands dirty.
Ask for Matt.
http://m.harpers-ultrasonic.com
Well I got a quote of him today. The £70 is decent but then the other parts can cost an extra £140 if they need replacing on his judgement. Did he charge you for seals?
His email:
QuoteA pair of carbs like yours will cost £70.00 plus parts and postage to clean.
As a minimum, a set of seals will add up to £40.00, but the parts spend can climb dramatically if there is wear present.
This design of carburettor can suffer from wear on the slide guide, needle and emulsion tube, these parts can add well in excess of £100.00, but are not always worn.
It seems that the wear can manifest from as little as 10,000 miles, but is more common on gently ridden bikes.
The first sign is a shiny patch on the front of the needle:- with the carbs off, open the throttle and lift the slide. It may require a spare set of hands.
Symptoms are normally experienced as a mid-range flat spot and off idle stumble.
Quote from: Toner on May 01, 2018, 01:48:50 AM
If Buddha isn't able to find the parts, do you think this set will work if I request a 125 main jet and a 40 pilot jet?
https://www.discountbikespares.co.uk/ourshop/prod_5449514-CARBURETTOR-REPAIR-KIT-GS500-K-Y.html
(https://i.imgur.com/DEp2gww.png)
You wont need 90% of these parts.
I've only seen O rings and the float needle "die".
You should be fine with just those, and having said that, I feel stupid - I didn't check if I had O rings Grrrrr. Anyway - I will have to do tomorrow, and if not, maybe early next week, cos I live in 2 cities now and could have them in either place.
Cool.
Buddha.
I was charged £85 for the pair. They have only done 11k miles but had been stood for 7 years.
I dropped the carbs off and picked them up myself, so no postage costs.
The 4 o-rings in each carb were replaced along with the bowl gaskets and the two fuel inlet pipe seals. (The ones either side of the T-piece). Matt is the UK agent for Litek and that's whose parts were used.
The slides and guides, the needles and emulsion tubes, the float valves and seats and the throttle spindle-seals were all inspected and judged to be ok.
The carb settings were restored to factory setting, and balanced by eye.
I was told the tickover speed may be high on startup and it was.
I haven't actually tried the bike on the road yet but I can tell the difference just by the way it starts, hot and cold and by the smoother idle and cleaner pickup.
Quote from: The Buddha on May 10, 2018, 04:22:50 PM
Quote from: Toner on May 01, 2018, 01:48:50 AM
If Buddha isn't able to find the parts, do you think this set will work if I request a 125 main jet and a 40 pilot jet?
https://www.discountbikespares.co.uk/ourshop/prod_5449514-CARBURETTOR-REPAIR-KIT-GS500-K-Y.html
(https://i.imgur.com/DEp2gww.png)
You wont need 90% of these parts.
I've only seen O rings and the float needle "die".
You should be fine with just those, and having said that, I feel stupid - I didn't check if I had O rings Grrrrr. Anyway - I will have to do tomorrow, and if not, maybe early next week, cos I live in 2 cities now and could have them in either place.
Cool.
Buddha.
No worries Buddha, I may just go with this service sledge is talking about to make sure it's done right.
Quote from: sledge on May 11, 2018, 05:30:33 AM
I was charged £85 for the pair. They have only done 11k miles but had been stood for 7 years.
I dropped the carbs off and picked them up myself, so no postage costs.
The 4 o-rings in each carb were replaced along with the bowl gaskets and the two fuel inlet pipe seals. (The ones either side of the T-piece). Matt is the UK agent for Litek and that's whose parts were used.
The slides and guides, the needles and emulsion tubes, the float valves and seats and the throttle spindle-seals were all inspected and judged to be ok.
The carb settings were restored to factory setting, and balanced by eye.
I was told the tickover speed may be high on startup and it was.
I haven't actually tried the bike on the road yet but I can tell the difference just by the way it starts, hot and cold and by the smoother idle and cleaner pickup.
So he only replaced 4 o-rings?
Maybe that's why it only cost £85.
Hope it's something similar for me.
Got it off and will send the carb out tomorrow for an ultrasonic clean. Thinking of replacing all the hoses will I'm at it.
Took them all off and taped them to some cardboard with the ends labelled.
There is one hose though that I cannot remember where it goes :confused:
There are three connected to the carb, the vacuum, one that goes to the petcock and connects to a brown nozzle on the carb and a third that goes from a black nozzle on the carb to somewhere....
IIRC, it's the top hose and circled here. Not sure though because it's the straightest hose.
Can someone please tell me where it goes?
(https://i.imgur.com/x1swohb.png)
Where does it go? It's a breather hose. It goes to that canister, "FILTER, AIR CLEANER NO.2", which is a little filter. IIRC the older models simply vented to atmosphere. I'd have to lift my tank to verify.
Quote from: alpo on May 20, 2018, 06:11:56 PM
Where does it go? It's a breather hose. It goes to that canister, "FILTER, AIR CLEANER NO.2", which is a little filter. IIRC the older models simply vented to atmosphere. I'd have to lift my tank to verify.
Must have the older one, don't see that canister. Hope I took enough pics to be able to re-install this :icon_eek:
Top hose is a vent, it tucks down behind the air box out of any draughts.
Bottom hose is the fuel supply.
3rd hose, the smaller diameter one is the vacuum pipe from the side of the carb to the back of the fuel tap.
Quote from: sledge on May 21, 2018, 05:27:49 AM
Top hose is a vent, it tucks down behind the air box out of any draughts.
Bottom hose is the fuel supply.
3rd hose, the smaller diameter one is the vacuum pipe from the side of the carb to the back of the fuel tap.
Thanks Sledge, you think I can reuse the fuel hose protectors on these old hoses?
They're €8 each new. Old ones don't really slide off. Might be able to cut up the hose a bit to rip them off.