I have seen that while the shock can be tight that it's supposed to not be necessary to grind the swingers for the later shocks. However I cannot see a way that it can fit. See photos, the spring is against the swing arm but it looks to be unable to get the front pivot bolt on as it currently is.
Is there some other way to do this, I find it hard to believe that bikes are going to all be slightly different. So does this appear to be a grind the swingerarm job?
thx.
I'm trying to remember back to when I did the R6 install... because I didn't need to grind anything away from the swingarm until I added the shorter dogbones.
IIRC, I fit the upper and lower shock bolts first... and then was able to situate the rest of the parts (dogbones, linkage...). I also had my Dad helping... he'd lift up on the tail of the bike or push down on it, etc, depending on what I needed him to do as I was under the bike, lining everything up.
Idk if that will help ya but those are the deets of my R6 install experience !
Thanks for that info SBW, yes it helped, I had another go at finagling it and I managed to get the centre pivot in and the final front pivot, so it's all looking good. Phew! I'm out there now with a lamp in the dark and it's looking pretty sweet.
These all move - you need more clearance than what would be a sheet of paper thick. Also remember the coils etc etc move with compression. Don't say its OK at rest because the first nice bump and pothole combo could mean - crunch.
Cool.
Buddha.
Hmm... that's certainly food for thought Buddha. This is the first I've heard that information. All the searches and reading I did back when doing install for myself stated the opposite of that.
I was under the impression that if there's even a tiny bit of clearance at all when the bike is just sitting, it'll be OK because when the rider sits and adds weight, it increases the distance between the shock and the swingarm and all will be fine.
When I get home later, I'm gonna crawl under my bike and check to see if there's been any contact/wear on the swingarm since last year when I did this mod!
Excellent SBW, do report back. I think Buddha it just trying to worry us! Nevertheless I managed to pick up an angle grinder in a local garage cleanup just in case I do have to modify the swing arm pivot.
I didn't see any evidence of scuffing or wear. Hooray!
Awesome that you found an angle grinder :thumb:
Yea, that is what mine looked like when I installed it. While it was not touching just sitting there with no load in it I opted to grind a little just in case. I assume the geometry will change a litter when the shock is compressed. I was doing the job by myself and had no one to sit on the bike so I could check the spring clearance under load.
Yea just theorizing and we all know how that can be way off ... I never ran an R6 shock, in fact all my experimentation with shocks for a GS predate the R6 LOL. Yea, clean - predate the R6. Or atleast the R6 generation you are talking about.
Cool.
Buddha.
I concur with ShowBiz, I didn't grind mine either and have had no wear marks to indicate rubbing.
I'm glad to hear no one has had problems. I did not notice a great deal of difference at first, but when I had another 65kgs on the back end in the form of a pillion passenger, the difference was amazing, it felt plush. But then I haven't really done any tinkering with the settings yet. Now I want some sonic springs!
I did not have any trouble installing my R6 shock--much better than stock.
Might be stupid question but what year R6 shock fits there? :cookoo:
What it really boils down to is what style of R6 shock fits. It's been hard to pinpoint the exact year range tbh.
Check out the wiki link for more information and pictures of the details!
http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Upgrades.RearShock
Quote from: Meukowi on June 11, 2018, 09:52:11 PM
Might be stupid question but what year R6 shock fits there? :cookoo:
From 2008 onwards they are all the same. Obviously you want the newest you can get and at the moment you can buy a mint condition one in the States for $80 USD or less, I just bought a mint condition 2012 one with the linkages which are required because you need a bolt and a spacer. Specifically the spacer and bolt that goes through the lower part of the clevis on the shock.
In Australia by way of contrast, you can purchase a really beaten up 2006 shock without the linkage for $400 AUD plus another $40 to purchase the bolt, spacer and nut, about $20 each.
kml-outfit are the go to ebay seller for these. Here's two mint ones from 2013 and 2014, why bother with anything earlier than 2008 that are going to be more used and not cheaper?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-Yamaha-YZF-R6-YZF-R6-OEM-Rear-Shock-Absorber-Linkage-Assembly/192552859843
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-Yamaha-YZF-R6-YZF-R6-OEM-Rear-Shock-Absorber-Linkage-Assembly/192513704682
You tube video give full install details but you don't need to grind anything for the 2008 and later as they show in the vid. Also while I'm told it's possible to get this one in sideways (but not the earlier than 2008 models) I found it easier and less hassle to drop it in from the top as per the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_0gnFaONfY
My advice, but it now and install at your leisure.
P.S, the bolt and spacer you need are marked in red. All the rest of the stuff in the linkage you can discard.
Thanks for answers ;D. Have to find mine from the eu tho, shipping is approx 70$ from the us. Got one question tho for dogbones, friend got spare dogbones from gsf600, much shorter than i've got, but the shock hits the swing arm, as seen on the ops pic, what part do i need to grind to fit those? Its just a few mm off
Lähetetty minun HUAWEI CRR-L09 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
I bought mine from the USA and I'm in Australia, even with $100 shipping and bad exchange rate it was less than half the price of one that was rubbish if I bought here. I'm pretty sure that (even without checking) with $70 shipping you won't get it cheaper in the EU. And you certainly won't get it in mint condition.
Showbizwolf is the go to girl for info on short dogbones.
Quote from: Meukowi on June 11, 2018, 11:23:48 PM
Thanks for answers ;D. Have to find mine from the eu tho, shipping is approx 70$ from the us. Got one question tho for dogbones, friend got spare dogbones from gsf600, much shorter than i've got, but the shock hits the swing arm, as seen on the ops pic, what part do i need to grind to fit those? Its just a few mm off
Lähetetty minun HUAWEI CRR-L09 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
The dogbones I have installed on my bike are only slightly shorter and raise the bike 1". I had to do a considerable amount of grinding to get everything to fit. Personally, I'd not want to go any farther for even shorter links.
It's hard to describe exactly where to grind down... thru words... but if you scroll all the way up in this thread and study user's first picture, that's where you have to grind to make clearance. It's the spot right in front of the extra little mudflap thing hanging down under the swingarm. It makes sense when you're finally doing this job and you can actually see what needs done with your own eyes.
Hope that helps!
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on June 12, 2018, 09:11:01 AM
The dogbones I have installed on my bike are only slightly shorter and raise the bike 1". I had to do a considerable amount of grinding to get everything to fit. Personally, I'd not want to go any farther for even shorter links.
It's hard to describe exactly where to grind down... thru words... but if you scroll all the way up in this thread and study user's first picture, that's where you have to grind to make clearance. It's the spot right in front of the extra little mudflap thing hanging down under the swingarm. It makes sense when you're finally doing this job and you can actually see what needs done with your own eyes.
Hope that helps!
Yea sure, at the link, ofcourse, but wouldn't it weakin it pretty much?
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@Meukowi
SlipperyMongoose says it can take it but don't forget the SilverZinc spray afterwards.
The >5 millimeters needed to grind away from the swingarm aren't really enough to weaken it I'd imagine.
+1 to coating the bare metal with something afterwards. I used silver Por15.