Well , I am thinking about making one of the above for my gs. I am dissabled and its painful after a while changing gear . Thinking either one or two 12v solonoidss. Wondering if ayone has done this . myfirst questio is what power and shift distance would i need. I guess i can measure the shift distance mmmm but still no idea what force a solonoid must give . The kits for this are lovely but a fortune, more than the cost of the bike! ... Any clever souls who know how or have done . Love and light toyou all
Is it problematic to shift in general? Or does one direction cause you more issues than the other?
It would be easy to make a "rocker" type gear lever, so that way you can step down on the front or the back to either up or down shift.
I've little knowledge of electrics so I can't be of much help with a servo/solenoid setup, but I am interested to see what the forum comes up with.
Hi ,,, both up and down are tricky... that problem is on the pile now as a fuel starvation issue has come up again and after a look inside the tank the reason is clear ... its a flippin mess ,,, the fuel is brown and rusty ... the filter is filthy , there are strips of some previous owners attempts at a sealer .. So ,,, getting the fandangled with POR 15 is the first thing .... the tank is solid and does not leak but a fair bit of surface rust ,,,, saveable though .... shouldt be a big deal once the tank gloop gets here .....
If you haven't already ordered the POR15 I really recommend the Kreem fuel tank liner kit.
We sell it at my work and everyone who has used it came back and praised it.
ah , its already ordered ... Ive cleaned out the tank to the point its useable .... the largest piece of junk in there was the size of a shoe-heal... It had a lot of old failed tank sealer and a great deal of rust ... how the bike ran I dont know - perhaps this is why i got the gs cheap , i doubt it was reliable as it must have been repeatedly puling this junk through the carbs. I also have a carb rebuild kit so once the tank is done and drying ( it takes 9 hrs) I will give them a service and while there do the oil and filter .... I hope the POR 15 works ... Useing veinegar I made a huge difference with the tank , the fuel is now crystal clear and the filter spotless though there remains surface rust hence the need for a sealer ... thanks for the suggestion
Honestly, get a new tank secondhand. Should be heaps around.
I have been fighting with external rust on mine since I got it. NOTHING seems to stop it rusting.
Hi gregjet ... i may get a tank --- though the ones available that fit an 89 gs all look pretty crusty , i will keep looking ..... after a couple of hours working on the carbs removeing brown muck and replaceing the odd internal part the bike finally runs smoothly without hesitation and i can do high speeds with no fuel starvation issue at all --- its a different machine. If a good tank turns up i will get it , if not i will por 15 this one when i get around to it - in the meanwhile an extra inline filter is my plan as is the gear shifter ......Cheers ...
If the main tank fuel tap still has the fine mesh inlet pipes a fuel filter probably won't add any extra filtering. The stock ones ate very fine and work OK. The flow from the tank is pretty sluggish anyway so I have reservations with putting fuel filters inline on this bike especially high filtering ones with big drad. Not a lot of dynamic hydraulic pressure there.
.. noted ... I may remove the tank filter and try an inline one instead ... I want to be able to see what is going on and clean or replace any filter that is starting to get mucky without taking the bike apart - being disabled taking a tank off etc really takes it out of me ... Hopefully a decent tank wil turn up and the issue can be solved properly...
This post keeps stuffing up on me. This is the 3rd try.
Right...
An inline one will probably filter better AND give a greater filter area. BUT...the taop orifaces are very restrictive and the design will allow grunge to collect in the tap. Pics to follow this.
The second most restrictive points in the fuel flow are in the tank tap. The nylon director ( for want of a better word) does not align properly with the tap body. You can drill them to size. Make sure you dis-assemble the tap and clean any metal and nylon swarf after. Just drill it ti stock internal size of the outlet. That will remove a couple of spots that collect garbage and reduce flow as well. Personally I would not remove the upper filter, just clean it and the taps out properly.
Top pic is looking down the tap. Outer holes are screw holes. Top inner is the drilled out hole, lower inner is the stock alignment.
Second pic is the stock mesh. Note this tap has reserve soldered shut and the reserve and main inlets are joined.
Third pic is the nylon director plug.
No offense to anyone, but I can't stand tank liners.
I've cleaned out a few rusted tanks. It's pretty simple just a little time consuming.
1. Clean the old gas out of the tank. If there is a build up of gas crud it needs to be broken loose. BBs work well for most tanks. The GS is different because of the fuel valve location and size. For it I used short lengths of small chain. Shake it around good, then remove it.
2. Rinse the crap out of the tank. I've found a solution of Oxi-Clean and hot water works well. Fill it up and let it sit for a while. Empty and rinse until the water comes out clear. Repeat as necessary.
3. Get a gallon, or two, of Evaporust. Pour it in the tank. Close the tank and let it sit. Rotate the tank periodically to get it on all the surfaces. Be patient! It needs time to work.
4. When the inside of the tank is shiny pour out the Evaporust. It can be filtered and used again.
5. If the tank is going to sit for a while pour in some motor oil. Slosh it around to coat all the inner surfaces. This will keep the tank from rusting.
6. Otherwise, install the tank and fill it with non-ethanol gas. This will also keep it from rusting.
My tanks are shiny new steel inside.
:cheers:
BTW, the in-tank filter is enough. Adding another filter inline is just another restriction.
Thanks for the replies ....Right now I am having no isssues , the fuel is clear and flowing well -however there is a fair amount of surface rust so I imagine that needs dealt with at some point . I think the evaporust sounds like a plan . I am regreting spending out on the por15 tank cleaner now but that will be a last resort . If / when i get issues from the tank surface rust I will use evaporust or similar and drill out the tank on/off valve and put in an inline fliter so that I can see what is going on before it becomes an issue. Its a lot of fun now having a smooth running bike that delivers power as it should at all speeds ..