Hello. I just bought GS 500 -95. I know that it doenst have much power but it goes only like a 130 km/h max speed.
It is restricted to 25kw but i checked the carburetor.
Jets are 122,5 and 125. Air filter is pipercross.
It feels like it doenst have power on fifth and sixth gear.
This shouldnt be blocked?
(https://serving.photos.photobox.com/3884562351826308d9929f642f9266c544e8d839d47fdea6f2e7f26ddc422d3f5def9a8a.jpg)
This hole should be blocked?
(https://serving.photos.photobox.com/98727976a4c14a913bfd85bd49a6731f5f2cd025d5f5f64e0cce474c1dcbe42e3425c559.jpg)
never seen them with holes in that spot? Special Europe edition?
I can confirm these holes exist, at least in the Aussie edition.
EDIT: 2009 Aussie edition (K9)
I think this what it's supposed to look like;
https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs500e-1995-s-e02-e04-e22-e25-e34-e37p9_model13455/valve-piston_1350101d00/#.W0wye9IzaUk (https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs500e-1995-s-e02-e04-e22-e25-e34-e37p9_model13455/valve-piston_1350101d00/#.W0wye9IzaUk)
At the risk of sounding condescending you have a restricted bike. You are about 15kw down from a stock bike. Of course it's going to feel as if it lacks power :dunno_black:
I don't know about your part of the world but derestricting them and using them without the correct licence is illegal.
Yes this is "europe edition" bike.
I havent done anything to those holes. It was like that from previous owner.
I'll try to unblock that hole wich goes upwards.
And i have a license to drive it with 34kw.
Some laws were MADE to be broken. Go for it!
:icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: j0nes on July 16, 2018, 02:02:52 AM
Yes this is "europe edition" bike.
I havent done anything to those holes. It was like that from previous owner.
I'll try to unblock that hole wich goes upwards.
And i have a license to drive it with 34kw.
didnt ask previous owner how its restricted?
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It will be a GS500EU, restricted in the factory and sold as a low powered version for learners in some European countries.
They can be converted to full power versions but it involves more than just work to the slides. I know what is involved but won't be telling you because I don't quite understand why you bought it knowing it was restricted and I don't condone what could be an illegal act on the basis yours will be probably registered and insured as a restricted model.
If you want a full fat version just go out and buy one :dunno_black:
Yes i think it is GS500E and it is restricted 2010 from 34kW to 25kW. I was just curious does this really go only like 130 km/h if it is 25 kW or is there some problem in the carburetors because it just doesnt have power on sixth gear. How fast it should go if it is that 34 kW full power. Or maybe its just because my previous bike was FZS 600 and it had a little bit more power.
what kind of sick joke is restricting a GS500? Mine unrestricted can't even pull away from most new cars... :icon_rolleyes:
Quote from: J_Walker on July 16, 2018, 07:41:50 AM
what kind of sick joke is restricting a GS500? Mine unrestricted can't even pull away from most new cars... :icon_rolleyes:
I would say 0-60 in 5.5 seconds is still pretty competitive against low-end and mid-end cars (and this
is a low-end bike). True that it won't beat anything vaguely sporty, but it at least puts up a fight. I haven't yet beaten a car that was actively trying, but of course, only drivers who know their car is fast would be interested in trying to race a bike, so it's a biased sample - they were all tuned hot-hatches ;)
That said, restricting it is pretty stupid, yeah, it's the equivalent of a modern 300 in real terms. The 0-60 and top speed are pretty much identical to a Ninja 300. Actually, the reason I bought this was exactly because I don't need to restrict it, whereas the more popular SV-650 I would have to.
If it's restricted then it might have a max speed of ~80mph (which is about 130 km/h if my math is good). IDK because on my unrestricted bike I have never had any need to go that fast. The bike is not really stable at 75mph due to wind so I really have no desire to see anything north of that.
Goof with the carbs at your own peril. If you don't know what those holes are for, I strongly suggest you don't try to change them. Carb tuning on these bikes is difficult enough when you know what you are doing and everything is intact. Intentionally screw something up before you know what effect it is going to have and you are in for a world of hurt.
Stock FZs 600 Fazer = 95hp
Stock GS500 = 51hp
Restricted GS500 = 33hp...(and inferior to the Fazer)
Can't say I am surprised to hear you say you feel there is something 'missing' :D
So what happened to the Fazer??
Quote from: sledge on July 16, 2018, 01:09:35 PM
Stock FZs 600 Fazer = 95hp
Stock GS500 = 51hp
Restricted GS500 = 33hp...(and inferior to the Fazer)
Can't say I am surprised to hear you say you feel there is something 'missing' :D
So what happened to the Fazer??
I sold it because im going to buy newer and more powerful bike next summer. I just had to buy a cheap bike to ride a couple of months. And it was GS 500 :D.
Well im going to teardown the bike next weekend. Clean carburetors with ultrasonic cleaner, take cylinder head cover off because it leaks some oil and check valve clearances. Change oil filter and change another oil pan because oilplug threads are completely destroyed.
Quote from: j0nes on July 16, 2018, 08:06:04 PMchange another oil pan because oilplug threads are completely destroyed.
If I'm not mistaken that's going to involve a full engine removal from the frame; unless you're happy with that, you might want to look at just retapping what's already there.
Quote from: Kookas on July 17, 2018, 01:41:54 PM
Quote from: j0nes on July 16, 2018, 08:06:04 PMchange another oil pan because oilplug threads are completely destroyed.
If I'm not mistaken that's going to involve a full engine removal from the frame; unless you're happy with that, you might want to look at just retapping what's already there.
Well i have to check that on the weekend when I get to the bike.But I thought it should come off easily. Just take exhaust off and open all bolts.
You can remove (and replace) the oil pan without removing the engine from the frame. I replaced the oil pan gasket last year on my GS and was amazed that the Clymer book said to remove the engine from the frame and flip it upside down to do the job :icon_eek: :cookoo:
I can confirm the above :thumb:
I also can conform the above. While you have the oil pan of clean the oil strain as well.
Quote from: Kookas on July 16, 2018, 11:34:59 AM
Quote from: J_Walker on July 16, 2018, 07:41:50 AM
what kind of sick joke is restricting a GS500? Mine unrestricted can't even pull away from most new cars... :icon_rolleyes:
I would say 0-60 in 5.5 seconds is still pretty competitive against low-end and mid-end cars (and this is a low-end bike). True that it won't beat anything vaguely sporty, but it at least puts up a fight. I haven't yet beaten a car that was actively trying, but of course, only drivers who know their car is fast would be interested in trying to race a bike, so it's a biased sample - they were all tuned hot-hatches ;)
That said, restricting it is pretty stupid, yeah, it's the equivalent of a modern 300 in real terms. The 0-60 and top speed are pretty much identical to a Ninja 300. Actually, the reason I bought this was exactly because I don't need to restrict it, whereas the more popular SV-650 I would have to.
Really? 0 to 60 in 5.5 seconds? Mine does 0 to 60 in well under 4 seconds. Around 3.4 seconds 0 to 60 and i think it's quicker than that. Though it is highly modified. It will do over 60 in second gear. I smash V8's off the line no problem at all, let alone some little rice burner.
Hell, the other week we went down the great ocean road and my mate was on his GSXR1300 Hyabusa and i absolutely smashed him in the twisty's.
Quote from: sledge on July 16, 2018, 01:09:35 PM
Stock FZs 600 Fazer = 95hp
Stock GS500 = 51hp
Restricted GS500 = 33hp...(and inferior to the Fazer)
Can't say I am surprised to hear you say you feel there is something 'missing' :D
So what happened to the Fazer??
51 hp at the crank about 37 at the rear wheel
As for the original question, the holes on the bottom of the carb are open on the stock carb but, if you buy a dyno jet kit they say to block one hole and they provide a plug to do so. That increases the vacuum in the diaphram and raises the slide quicker, which will provide better acceleration if the bike is tuned correctly. I'm not 100% sure having that hole blocked as a huge issue, and i don't think it's your problem.
As for the hole in the upper part of the slide, i myself have never seen that before. My bike certainly doesn't have a hole there and i don't recall ever seeing a picture of a slide with a hole there.
The jet sizes you have in the carbs are standard sizes for an R or S model bike.
Give the carbs an ultrasonic clean and see how you go. I have an ultrasonic cleaner and they cannot be beaten for cleaning carbs.
Make sure you set the float hight correctly.
Have a look inside the carb boots and make sure there aren't any restrictor washers in them.
Quote from: crackin on July 19, 2018, 05:13:47 AM
Really? 0 to 60 in 5.5 seconds? Mine does 0 to 60 in well under 4 seconds. Around 3.4 seconds 0 to 60 and i think it's quicker than that. Though it is highly modified. It will do over 60 in second gear. I smash V8's off the line no problem at all, let alone some little rice burner.
Hell, the other week we went down the great ocean road and my mate was on his GSXR1300 Hyabusa and i absolutely smashed him in the twisty's.
Damn, under 4 seconds?! That's definitely not the stock time. What's your setup?
Dyno jet carb kit and K&S lunchbox filter, ran the bike in the dyno a couple of times to things right. Making 43HP at the rear wheel. The bike is stripped down to only the essentials, it weighs 160kg wet. Enigne is bored 1mm oversize, but that does next to nothing in the scheme of things. Open stainless baffle and custom made 15 degree merge on the stock headers. Vortex rearsets which allow me to run GP shift for fast, solid clutchless gear changes.
I may have miss quoted myself saying it does over 60 in second, probably just click in third, LOL
Anyways, I am the Gobshite of the forum and every forum needs one :2guns:
Just did a couple of runs and speedo is indicating 110 in second gear.
So I checked my valves. I have a feeler gauge that shows only from 0.05mm with 0.05mm range.
Both intake valves are less than 0.05mm.
Right ex. valve is more than 0.1mm but less than 0.15mm.
Left ex. valve is more than 0.05mm but less than 0.1mm.
So how accurate is this engine to valve clearances if they are a little bit out of spec?
Maybe I just have to get a more accurate feeler gauge. I try to take shims off tomorrow and measure what size they are. I have already 4 shims from my spare engine so hopefully i dont have to buy new shims.
Quote from: j0nes on July 22, 2018, 01:48:54 PM
So I checked my valves. I have a feeler gauge that shows only from 0.05mm with 0.05mm range.
Both intake valves are less than 0.05mm.
Right ex. valve is more than 0.1mm but less than 0.15mm.
Left ex. valve is more than 0.05mm but less than 0.1mm.
So how accurate is this engine to valve clearances if they are a little bit out of spec?
Maybe I just have to get a more accurate feeler gauge. I try to take shims off tomorrow and measure what size they are. I have already 4 shims from my spare engine so hopefully i dont have to buy new shims.
if i remember right, it isn't that accurate, +-0,6mm is ok, or atleast was in the book
Lähetetty minun G8341 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
Quote from: Meukowi on July 22, 2018, 10:19:26 PM
Quote from: j0nes on July 22, 2018, 01:48:54 PM
So I checked my valves. I have a feeler gauge that shows only from 0.05mm with 0.05mm range.
Both intake valves are less than 0.05mm.
Right ex. valve is more than 0.1mm but less than 0.15mm.
Left ex. valve is more than 0.05mm but less than 0.1mm.
So how accurate is this engine to valve clearances if they are a little bit out of spec?
Maybe I just have to get a more accurate feeler gauge. I try to take shims off tomorrow and measure what size they are. I have already 4 shims from my spare engine so hopefully i dont have to buy new shims.
if i remember right, it isn't that accurate, +-0,6mm is ok, or atleast was in the book
Lähetetty minun G8341 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
or +-0,06.. dont quote me on that
Lähetetty minun G8341 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
Yes you need more accurate feeler gauges. Max clearance is .08 mm and min clearance is when they start knocking.
You did have the crank in the correct position/positions I assume.
You can have the shim's machined at your local head reconditioning shop with no issues (I do it all the time) but you need to be able to tell the how much to take of each shim you give them. Those guys usually work in thou, so you will have to convert your measurements. I usually have 2 thou removed and very occasionally 3. Make very sure they remove hte metal from the underside of the shim, the side with the stamp on it.
You need to check to see if you have any clearance at all on your intakes. Your exhaust's are probably going to be ok even though the right one is out of spec. In reality its only a couple of hair thickness' out. But if it flies out at high revs, I'm not responsible but I highly doubt it will.
Okay so the clearances were :
L exhaust: 0.08
R exhaust: 0.1-0.13
L intake: less than 0.03
R intake: less than 0.03
I didn't have valve tool so I put a zip tie to sparkplug hole to lock valves. It was easy to do intake side but little bit harder to exhaust side so i left it to 0.1 clearance.
So intake clearances are now:
L 0.06
R 0.07
I also cleaned carbs but should everything be like this in a needle:
(https://serving.photos.photobox.com/77972175fbf18d9d7cd5a07ce93c41579a77de6cd9ae1991b485ed602adfc2a11e69ea4b.jpg)
You don't need that metal washer on your needles, you have adjustable needles.
Quote from: j0nes on July 28, 2018, 09:03:04 AM
Okay so the clearances were :
L exhaust: 0.08
R exhaust: 0.1-0.13
L intake: less than 0.03
R intake: less than 0.03
I didn't have valve tool so I put a zip tie to sparkplug hole to lock valves. It was easy to do intake side but little bit harder to exhaust side so i left it to 0.1 clearance.
So intake clearances are now:
L 0.06
R 0.07
I also cleaned carbs but should everything be like this in a needle:
(https://serving.photos.photobox.com/77972175fbf18d9d7cd5a07ce93c41579a77de6cd9ae1991b485ed602adfc2a11e69ea4b.jpg)
i think the correct order is thic plastic white at the bottom, needle, metal washer and spring holder
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Okay so i got everything together and replaced some O-rings to carburetors. Made a manometer and synced carbs. Its running idle smoothly now. I tested the bike a little bit at sand road and i think it accelerates much better now. My speedometer isnt hooked up so i dont know how fast it goes and I didnt even change to sixth gear so i dont know does it go faster than before.
Next thing i have to do is get the lights work. Wires are so messed up so i dont know what previous owner has done to the bike. Rearlight works only when brake and turn signal lights works only sometimes. But i will wait so i get new ignition switch because i dont have any at the moment and im running it just putting wires together :icon_lol: Should rear light even work if im running the bike only connecting 2 wires. Because if i look the wiring diagram rear light wires go to the ignition switch and i havent connected those wires.
Quote from: j0nes on July 30, 2018, 05:18:19 AM
Should rear light even work if im running the bike only connecting 2 wires. Because if i look the wiring diagram rear light wires go to the ignition switch and i havent connected those wires.
Sounds right to me. The rear light is on any time the ignition is on.
Quote from: j0nes on July 30, 2018, 05:18:19 AM
Made a manometer and synced carbs. Its running idle smoothly now.
When you hook the Manometer up to your carbs, you want to rev the engine to at least 2,500 rev's and hold it there, and set equal vacuum in each carb. I rev my engine at 4,000 rev's to balance the carbs, but that;s just me. I'm psycho.
The idle should be good if the carbs are balanced,clean and the air/fuel screws are set right.
You don't ride the bike at idle, so who care;s how it idle's, it's all about tuning for midrange power. We want to go fast right?
I have tested the bike alot and results are: Max speed is 140 km/h. It accelerates much faster than before but there is one problem. On the sixth gear when i drive 100 km/h you can only give a little bit throttle. Otherwise it starts going slower. Feels like it doesnt get enough gas. But this happens only on the sixth gear. You can pull full throttle from 4000 rpm on fifth gear and it still accelerates well to 140 km/h but if i change to sixth gear engine loses all power. Is it just old engine and valves or pistonrings leak? I dont think changing jet would help this.
Quote from: j0nes on July 28, 2018, 09:03:04 AM
Okay so the clearances were :
L exhaust: 0.08
R exhaust: 0.1-0.13
L intake: less than 0.03
R intake: less than 0.03
I didn't have valve tool so I put a zip tie to sparkplug hole to lock valves. It was easy to do intake side but little bit harder to exhaust side so i left it to 0.1 clearance.
So intake clearances are now:
L 0.06
R 0.07
I also cleaned carbs but should everything be like this in a needle:
(https://serving.photos.photobox.com/77972175fbf18d9d7cd5a07ce93c41579a77de6cd9ae1991b485ed602adfc2a11e69ea4b.jpg)
Haynes says the clearances should be between .03 and .08 for all valves but people on this forum usually suggest running the exhaust valves as high as .1
I think maybe you have and issue with the float height. Have you checked them?
Quote from: sledge on July 16, 2018, 06:23:13 AM
It will be a GS500EU, restricted in the factory and sold as a low powered version for learners in some European countries.
They can be converted to full power versions but it involves more than just work to the slides. I know what is involved but won't be telling you because I don't quite understand why you bought it knowing it was restricted and I don't condone what could be an illegal act on the basis yours will be probably registered and insured as a restricted model.
If you want a full fat version just go out and buy one :dunno_black:
I'm interested to know how this bike is be restricted from the factory.
What do you care about legalities? Are you a bikie or a copper? :police:
Don't be such a stick in the mud, just tell us all.
Why do I care about the legallities?
Because I am a sensible and responsible motorcyclist and have been since 1982. As such I am concerned about the safety and wellbeing of others who lack and have yet to develop these qualities. And if you believe that makes me a 'stick in the mud' it says far more about your mindset than it does mine.
I am also particularly concerned about those who ask for help and advice in this forum and blindly accept everything said in here as fact when a lot of it is utter garbage, often spoken by people who don't know what they are talking about themselves and should know better. And in the 15 years I have been a member of this forum I have seen plenty of them!
For many years I turned my hobby into a sideline and found I could buy GS5s that needed work and sell them on for a small profit. I have lost count of the exact number that have passed through my hands but it's around 60-70. That's where my knowledge and experience relating to the model comes from.
Quite honestly, tons of people get away with derestricting their A2 bike, even after crashing etc. I very much doubt anything would happen derestricting a fancy kind of GS that even we here didn't know existed. Especially when the restriction isn't actually part of the terms of the rider's licence.
Getting away with it doesn't make it right. If you have a 33hp licence you cannot ride machines with more power in some countries, it's the law, simple as that.
Many years ago we had a member, Jaywolf. He got caught on an unrestricted bike outside of his license conditions. He was banned for a year and then had his insurance costs loaded for years after.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=44755.0
If you as an individual want to take the chance and knowingly break the law....go right ahead, it's your license, your neck your bike and you that will suffer the consequences if you get caught or involved in an incident. But dont forget other people use the roads too, sensible law abiding ones and it's them I have in mind.
If you cause someone a loss or an injury due to an illegal act relating to the use of a motorcycle on a public road what do you think will happen?
let's take it a step further. If you actually killed someone, say a young child crossing the road while riding illegally what do you think would happen and ,...........what would you say to the family concerned?
I will leave it with you :thumb:
(https://coubsecure-s.akamaihd.net/get/b32/p/coub/simple/cw_timeline_pic/9b66d97652f/5cb984d9f877a313fe643/med_1421949000_image.jpg)
Quote from: sledge on August 08, 2018, 12:59:31 AMGetting away with it doesn't make it right. If you have a 33hp licence you cannot ride machines with more power in some countries, it's the law, simple as that.
Quote from: Kookas on August 07, 2018, 01:15:08 PMEspecially when the restriction isn't actually part of the terms of the rider's licence.
The bike came with the restriction, presumably so that it would meet the terms of a previous rider's licence. No current-day UK bike licence has a 33 bhp limit.
Although the OP may not be from the UK there's nothing to say that they personally had it restricted, either.
Im not from UK and i have a license to drive any bike that i want. Im just driving this bike a couple of months and then trying to sell it when i got it working right. Then i buy a little bit more powerful bike. Like R1 or GSX-R 750. I just dont have anything to compare it. Even if it was 25kw I think it should go faster or then carb settings are just messed up.
Well next im going to change spark plugs because they are cheap and i have no idea when they are changed. Compression test would be nice to do but i dont have meter for that. Well it wont be too hard to make it myself but lets see. The engine might be just too much ridden. It is also burning some oil so i wouldnt be surprised if pistonrings are worn.