Hi people,
My 2004 500f had been popping so I checked the shim clearances. Inlets at 0.01 but shims and buckets move. Exhaust right at 0.3 and again shim and buckets move.
Now, I saw when rotating the crankshaft the left shim bucket stays down about 1.5cms and doesn't pop back up, couple of gentle rotations later and up it pops up ???
Soaked it in snow foam and left it for two days cranking out slowly now and then and topping up on snow foam.
All seemed fine for a couple of days whilst I waited for the new shims to arrive. It started popping again and I'm in the same boat.
The shim bucket won't turn either.
I've got the shim tool but I can't seem to get it right to release the shims.
Any ideas my friends.
Lost of power and fuel consumption is scary 😮😩😢
To be honest bud you would be just as quick and easy to remove the exhaust cam and take the bucket and shim out completely. It really isn't to difficult a job. Just watch how the timing is set and release the cam chain tensioner.
I agree with twinstacks. Your best bet is to remove the cam so you can pull the lifter bucket. Then you can thoroughly clean it and the hole it fits into. Check for any burs or debris that may be causing it to stick. A smear of oil and drop it back into place. It shouldn't take any longer than you've already spent fighting with it.
Thanks for the plan of action. Was hoping I could do it without removing the engine out of the frame. Would it be best to remove the exhaust and visually check the valve to see if anything is amiss too while I'm at it?
May as well do all the buckets as well.
Forgot to add that the other exhaust bucket doesn't turn but doesn't stick like the other.
The cam shafts can be removed without taking engine out of the frame.
Quote from: twinstacks on January 12, 2019, 03:15:39 AM
The cam shafts can be removed without taking engine out of the frame.
My concern is the left exhaust valve is coked up or been nicked by the inlet valve. I'll sort the buckets out first and see how the engine runs after.
Quote from: Numewsm on January 12, 2019, 03:01:58 AM
Thanks for the plan of action. Was hoping I could do it without removing the engine out of the frame. Would it be best to remove the exhaust and visually check the valve to see if anything is amiss too while I'm at it?
May as well do all the buckets as well.
At this point you don't need to remove the exhaust or the engine. You can remove the cams with it still in the frame. If it becomes necessary you can remove the whole head with the engine where it is.
Until you get to that point the exhaust pipes don't need to go anywhere. I guess you could remove them to do a visual on the exhaust valves if you really feel the need. It doesn't hurt to replace the exhaust stud bolts now and then anyway (there's a rather extensive thread on that somewhere here).
I'm with everyone else on this. If it we're me I would just mark the chain and cam gears to make sure the timing is good then release the timing chain tensioner and pull the exhaust cam and then the whole buckets out. I think a solid clean and oiling will get you back to this point so you can properly re-shim your valves.
Right, I've ended up taking both cams off.
Li was at 0.00 but bucket moves and comes out
Ri was at 0.01 but bucket tight. Won't come out. Moves under duress!
Re was at 0.01 and bucket tight. Won't come out. Moves under duress!
Le gap unknown. Bucket stuck down at rim won't move.
Ri shim 2.58 go for 2.50 shim?
Li shim 2.58 go for 2.50 shim
Re shim 2.65 go for 2.55 shim?
Le shim put in the wrong way and number rubbed off. 😮 I'll get it measured to get its width.
To remove these buckets, currently sitting in snow foam for the next 24 hrs, should I then heat up the surrounding area around the bucket with a heat source, i.e blow torch etc, and work the bucket up with pliers?
The worse problem bucket would pop up to its full hight after a few cranks of the cam.
Or do I put the cams back on and work the bucket up and remove the cams again?
I would avoid using pliers if at all possible, it's inevitable the serated jaws will damage the finished surfaces. try and find some that have plain jaws. I would also avoid using a naked flame and instead use a hot air gun for the same reason..........But in saying that your options are very limited
You will probably find some scoring between the walls of the follower and the chamber, polish it out with 240 or higher wetndry and light oil or WD40. When you reassemble ensure everything is 100% clean and that there is plenty of oil in the chamber.
I have used this method several times with mixed results. In a couple of cases the buckets again seized after a short period of time.
Quote from: sledge on January 19, 2019, 10:54:24 AM
I would avoid using pliers if at all possible, it's inevitable the serated jaws will damage the finished surfaces. try and find some that have plain jaws. I would also avoid using a naked flame and instead use a hot air gun for the same reason..........But in saying that your options are very limited
You will probably find some scoring between the walls of the follower and the chamber, polish it out with 240 or higher wetndry and light oil or WD40. When you reassemble ensure everything is 100% clean and that there is plenty of oil in the chamber.
I have used this method several times with mixed results. In a couple of cases the buckets again seized after a short period of time.
Thanks for the advice. I'll see how it goes and report back!
Quote from: sledge on January 19, 2019, 10:54:24 AM
I would avoid using pliers if at all possible, it's inevitable the serated jaws will damage the finished surfaces. try and find some that have plain jaws. I would also avoid using a naked flame and instead use a hot air gun for the same reason..........But in saying that your options are very limited
You will probably find some scoring between the walls of the follower and the chamber, polish it out with 240 or higher wetndry and light oil or WD40. When you reassemble ensure everything is 100% clean and that there is plenty of oil in the chamber.
I have used this method several times with mixed results. In a couple of cases the buckets again seized after a short period of time.
Got the heat gun on the shim buckets. They have been soaking in penetrating oil for three days.
Left in comes straight out.
Right in now moves but can't get it out all the way. Seems to get caught/stuck on something? But Now moves around when sat down.
Right exh now moves but same as right in.
Left exh moves up and down and turns but only under heat. Can't get that all the way out either?
Any ideas????????
Quote from: Numewsm on January 26, 2019, 09:06:15 AM
Quote from: sledge on January 19, 2019, 10:54:24 AM
I would avoid using pliers if at all possible, it's inevitable the serated jaws will damage the finished surfaces. try and find some that have plain jaws. I would also avoid using a naked flame and instead use a hot air gun for the same reason..........But in saying that your options are very limited
You will probably find some scoring between the walls of the follower and the chamber, polish it out with 240 or higher wetndry and light oil or WD40. When you reassemble ensure everything is 100% clean and that there is plenty of oil in the chamber.
I have used this method several times with mixed results. In a couple of cases the buckets again seized after a short period of time.
Got the heat gun on the shim buckets. They have been soaking in penetrating oil for three days.
Left in comes straight out.
Right in now moves but can't get it out all the way. Seems to get caught/stuck on something? But Now moves around when sat down.
Right exh now moves but same as right in.
Left exh moves up and down and turns but only under heat. Can't get that all the way out either?
Any ideas????????
Right, got all the shim buckets out, wet and dried with oil to get right of all the varnishing. Sparkly buckets now.
Can put back in both inlets, right side a bit stiff.
Both exhaust shim buckets are really tight to get back in :o all put in with plenty of oil
Can the buckets enlarge through prolonged heat? :dunno_black:
Should I get new buckets? :dunno_black:
Before and after.
Problem sorted, took my loose shim bucket and tried it in the exhaust valve slot. Just slid in no problem. :woohoo:
So going to order 3 new shim buckets to replace all the tight ones. :cheers:
As this seems to be quite rare on the GS500, anybody else had these issues?