Several years ago I built a cafe racer / scrambler out of one of my GS 500Fs which I was pretty pleased with. The thread for the bike is here:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=72358.msg871348#msg871348
Of course, about 30 seconds after selling that bike I regretted it and have wanted to do another one for a while. Unfortunately, there is sort of a "one project at a time" rule at my house (lol) so I had to wait until my GS 450 project was completed to start the new GS 500 project. Pics of the GS 450 are here:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=73176.0
So... the new GS 500 project is underway. I've posted some free parts that have been stripped from it here:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=73177.0
and I've had a few requests for a build thread as a result so I figured... what that heck.
Having just decided to start this thread, I am jumping in after a few a weeks of off-and-on work (sorry) but I'll try to keep it updated for anyone that's interested. The initial goal with the current build was to duplicate everything I liked about #8 and improve a few of the shortcomings (#8 was kind of a budget build with some self-imposed limits) However, after getting started on this latest build, I've gotten a real case of "wouldn't it be cool if..." so the scope has continued to grow.
The donor bike was a 2005 GS 500 F with only 3000 miles... almost a pity to sacrifice it but I'm hoping that the end will justify the means.
What's been done so far... (unfortunately I tend to work in a very stream-of-consciousness way so there isn't always a rhyme or reason to the order)
The bike has been torn down as far as it will need to be for this project. All the superfluous mounts, frame parts, etc... have been removed and the frame has been touched up as required.
I really wanted to use clip-ons for this bike (for aesthetic reasons) and get rid of the stock cluster. However, as I didn't want a super-sport position, I modified the triple tree so I would be able clamp the bars at the top of the stanchions and at the same time created a cut out for the replacement mini-cluster (see pic). I also removed the handlebar clamps from the top of the triple tree... amazing what you can do with your tile saw, a metal circular saw blade and bit of determination. lol
While I was at it, I decided to eliminate the keyed ignition and replaced it with a hidden kill switch (wanted to put the new speedo where the ignition was anyway).
The gas tank is off and currently at the painter (a.k.a the shed at the back of the yard) where it will get painted white... had hoped to find a pre-2001 tank but this one was in pristine shape so I stuck with it.
Footpegs replaced (that was easy)
One thing I never liked about almost every GS 500 mod that I've seen (including my previous ones) is that once the rear plastics are removed, everyone just seems to throw a number plate behind the tank to cover the battery, electronics etc... I wanted to clean up the middle of the bike and move everything forward so that it could be better hidden behind the frame and sit closer to the engine, and move anything that wouldn't fit there to the back of the bike. To accomplish this, the airbox was replaced by pods to make more room. I'm now in the process of moving the battery forward and electronics under the rear seat hump. This worked well on the GS 450 and so far so good on the 500.
Still on the to do list... going to go with shorty, dual-exhausts that will run down both sides of the bike and need to modify the header pipes accordingly, remove the oil cooler (as I have on prior builds) and lower the foot pegs, since the replacement seat will be lower than stock. I'm still undecided on the rear of the bike aesthetically, including lights, etc... hence the lack of tail loop. I also need to remove the front fairing mount and remnants of the ignition lock on the head tube... just need some blades for sawzall. :icon_twisted: A few other decisions to be made but all in all...well on the way.
That's probably enough to get the thread started. I've included a pic of the parts that have yet to be installed as this will give a good idea of the final vision... groovin' on the dual headlight, never used one on a bike before.
Quote from: brucedavidculver on December 01, 2019, 04:30:16 PM
While I was at it, I decided to eliminate the keyed ignition and replaced it with a hidden kill switch (wanted to put the new speedo where the ignition was anyway).
Quote from: brucedavidculver on December 01, 2019, 04:30:16 PM...and need to remove the oil cooler (as I have on prior builds).
You can just remove that? I suppose it's not needed when the fairings are gone..? Good to know, I always hated the look of that little thing without the fairing on.
Looking forward to seeing your build Bruce!
Quote from: Zeltoid on December 01, 2019, 06:27:14 PM
Quote from: brucedavidculver on December 01, 2019, 04:30:16 PM...and need to remove the oil cooler (as I have on prior builds).
You can just remove that? I suppose it's not needed when the fairings are gone..? Good to know, I always hated the look of that little thing without the fairing on.
Looking forward to seeing your build Bruce!
Absolutely... you just need to run a line in its place so that the oil can still flow. Prior to the the fairings, the GSs didn't have them.
If you're handy you can braze something up using the existing banjo fittings... I'll post pics when I do mine.
Completely agree about the appearance... "U-G-L-Y, you ain't go no alibi!"
Quote from: brucedavidculver on December 01, 2019, 06:42:02 PM
If you're handy you can braze something up using the existing banjo fittings... I'll post pics when I do mine.
Been a while since brazing ;) Sounds good!
I actually like the look of the oil cooler :dunno_black:
Have you run pods on a GS500 before? They are notorious for being hard to jet for across the entire rev range. K&N lunchbox filter is slightly more successful.
Keep posting! Can't wait to see what this turns into.
Quote from: Bluesmudge on December 02, 2019, 09:40:23 AM
I actually like the look of the oil cooler :dunno_black:
Have you run pods on a GS500 before? They are notorious for being hard to jet for across the entire rev range. K&N lunchbox filter is slightly more successful.
Keep posting! Can't wait to see what this turns into.
Don't jinx me...lol. I have run them on the 450 but not the 500 as of yet. As I had them handy I thought I would give them a try since they were already paid for. It'll be a few weeks before everything gets reassembled with the new pipe so time will tell.
I'll share my success story (I'm an optimist) when it's running again. :thumb:
that's exactly what my first question was, Blue,...
Hope to read your experience with pods or whatever it is you decide to do. Great start! Love the read! :star: :star: :star:
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on December 02, 2019, 10:17:11 AM
that's exactly what my first question was, Blue,...
Hope to read your experience with pods or whatever it is you decide to do. Great start! Love the read! :star: :star: :star:
Now you guys have me paranoid... sitting here with my finger hovering over the "Buy-it-Now" button for the K&N lunchbox... lol.
(click)
I have the k&N and with my 96 carbs I really struggled. I swapped in some 04 carbs and they've been much better.
Painting of the tank and top of the triple are done. Thought I would try my hand at the striping. Ended up with a few tiny bubbles here and there but I have about 15 feet of striping so I suspect the bubbles will get on my nerves enough in the next day or so that I will tear them off and try again. Lol. Hoping to get some work done on the tail and relocate some of the wiring this weekend.
Also decided to do a quick pre-assembly of the top triple and the speedo just to make sure that everything fits together as it should when it goes on the bike...so far no surprises. :woohoo:
sweeet,....!
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on December 09, 2019, 08:47:34 AM
sweeet,....!
Thanks... it's getting there slowly but surely.
So... time for a seat. With the tank temporarily installed I started getting the seat modified and in position. I changed course and decided to use a shorter seat than I had originally planned. The more I looked at my original choice I was less inspired by the seat pan (a bit flimsy) and since I've had success with a particular seat in the past I decided to stick with what I knew. I peeled the cover off the front of the new seat so that I could change the contour of the seat pan to fit up against the tank a bit better. 10 minutes with the Dremel and that was done and the seat cover was stapled back on.
Next I added a few cross members to the frame that corresponded to the position of the bumpers under the seat. The cross members will also provide mounting space for the regulator/rectifier, battery, etc... (next on the agenda). I decided to spring for a lithium-ion battery to save space and weight so I'll hardly need any space for that.
I used 1" wide, 1/8" stock cut to length and attached it by drilling and tapping holes in the frame then using machine screws counter sunk through the stock. I also applied JB Weld between the cross members and the frame, and to the screw heads (once they were in place). I'll go back and sand and paint everything after the JB Weld dries, so the look will end up being pretty seamless.
I had planned initially on using a tail loop on this build, but as my welding is not coming along as quickly as I'd hoped, and as this method has worked well in the past, I stuck with it.
The seat itself had rear mounts that were almost the perfect width to bolt directly to the back of the frame so all I needed to do was create and install the front "mount." I like to make use of the existing hardware whenever possible so in this case I just needed to replicate the front "stub" on the stock seat that slips under the tank and into the seat mount.
The stock mount is plastic (no metal to metal contact = no rust) so there was no reason to deviate from that... it was just a question of finding suitable plastic and cutting and attaching it via the bolts that were already built into the new seat.
A $3 plastic cutting board from Dollar General (oh yes... I'm cheap) was the perfect material, thickness and stiffness (and did I mention price?) so it got volunteered for the job.
A few quick measurements and the requisite pieces were cut from the board, screwed and glued together and bolted to the seat (also epoxied once the fit was confirmed).
Next... onto the electronics!
Quote from: brucedavidculver on December 10, 2019, 09:26:01 PM
Next I added a few cross members to the frame that corresponded to the position of the bumpers under the seat. The cross members will also provide mounting space for the regulator/rectifier, battery, etc... (next on the agenda). I decided to spring for a lithium-ion battery to save space and weight so I'll hardly need any space for that.
I used 1" wide, 1/8" stock cut to length and attached it by drilling and tapping holes in the frame then using machine screws counter sunk through the stock. I also applied JB Weld between the cross members and the frame, and to the screw heads (once they were in place). I'll go back and sand and paint them after everything dries, so the look ends up being pretty seamless.
this made my morning,...love to see stuff like this(https://www.motohouston.com/forums/images/smilies/notworthy.gif)
"A $3 plastic cutting board from Dollar General"
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on December 11, 2019, 08:28:13 AM
this made my morning,...love to see stuff like this(https://www.motohouston.com/forums/images/smilies/notworthy.gif)
"A $3 plastic cutting board from Dollar General"
Wait... so Farberware does not have a history of producing high quality motorcycle parts and accessories? :dunno_black:
Damn, I better return those oven mitts I was going to mod into winter riding gloves.
Just a quick update. The new seat choice has mandated a small change at the rear of the frame. Without the seat hump of the original seat choice, I need to make some decisions about where the battery and electronics are going. In the meantime however, the rear of the frame is done (until I change my mind again).
Finally got around to removing the original mount on the head tube for the front fairing and headlight. Decided to leave the ignition lock mount on, just on the odd chance that I ever want to put a keyed ignition back on it. As a result, I had to remake the mount for the Speedo (it hit the ignition mount) but that was pretty quick and easy. Didn't really do the cleanest job removing the original fairing mount, since I didn't feel like removing the entire front of the bike again for the best access. But as the head tube will be mostly hidden by the headlight anyway, I wasn't that concerned. Now that the cockpit is more or less done, hoping to start hoping to start wiring the front of the bike tomorrow
I wish my bikes were half that clean. Great work sir!
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on December 18, 2019, 09:07:33 AM
I wish my bikes were half that clean. Great work sir!
Thanks! Hoping to get it dirty sooner than later.
Great looking bike!
Maybe also 'cuz I think I just found a twin to my build :cheers: Twin headlights, cafe tail...
I did OK with the K&N lunchbox, with the jetting below.
Love that white gas tank. I also put on black stripes, though with a bare metal tank :D
Quote from: Endopotential on December 22, 2019, 12:45:22 PM
Great looking bike!
Maybe also 'cuz I think I just found a twin to my build :cheers: Twin headlights, cafe tail...
I did OK with the K&N lunchbox, with the jetting below.
Love that white gas tank. I also put on black stripes, though with a bare metal tank :D
Thanks for the feedback. Just took a look through your build thread. Amazing... there are a lot of similarities, although you went all out and re-welded the frame which I'm trying to avoid like the plague. Lol. Good for you for going the extra mile. I am probably going back to the original air box, as the seat switch eliminated the extra space that I was planning on using for the battery and the electronics. Progress is slowing down a bit with holidays but I am hoping to post another update after the first. The LED Speedo lights are giving me some trouble. Funny, I used the same Speedo on my 82 GS, I just can't remember how I fixed the issue. Zener diode maybe? Happy holidays to all!
Yes, our bikes are very similar, down to the start switch! I mounted mine on the left front frame rail.
If you go with a tiny lithium battery, there may be room to tuck it under that cafe racer seat. Then plenty of room for the K&N filter.
Visually I love the wide empty space at the back of the bike.
Quote from: brucedavidculver on December 23, 2019, 08:19:59 PM
... there are a lot of similarities, although you went all out and re-welded the frame which I'm trying to avoid like the plague.
FWIW I have tried for years to convince myself that JB Weld is a reasonable substitute for welding. I think as long as you are using it as an adhesive or very small gap filler it's fine, but if you think it's going to handle any stress, I think you will be very disappointed.
And to that end, I hope I am wrong, but I think one day you'll have the seat off your bike and notice those JB Weld joints have cracked. Just too much stress on that part of the frame. IMHO. Too late now, though. If it does break you can try to grind off all of the JB Weld using a 40 grit flap wheel and see if you can get a weld to stick.
I'm in the process of formulating how to build a rack to hold my mini side cases and I want to make it out of alloy and I'm trying to avoid welding it, but I'm really having a hard time finding a way to do it and have it be close to strong enough without switching to steel and welding. And adding 5 lb in the process.
Quote from: mr72 on December 24, 2019, 11:26:39 AM
Quote from: brucedavidculver on December 23, 2019, 08:19:59 PM
... there are a lot of similarities, although you went all out and re-welded the frame which I'm trying to avoid like the plague.
And to that end, I hope I am wrong, but I think one day you'll have the seat off your bike and notice those JB Weld joints have cracked. Just too much stress on that part of the frame. IMHO. Too late now, though. If it does break you can try to grind off all of the JB Weld using a 40 grit flap wheel and see if you can get a weld to stick.
I agree 💯. I would never depend on JB exclusively for anything structural. The added crossmembers on the frame are screwed down into threaded holes with flathead countersunk machine screws. The JB is only there to give it a little more hold. Eventually my welding may get good enough to actually use on a bike... Lol. Until then I'll have to stick with "screwed and glued.".
Seat and rear electrical...
With New Year's eve off, I finally got around to finishing the electrical placement in the rear of the bike.
I had some grand plans initially (lithium ion battery under the seat hump, etc... ) but after deciding to change the seat configuration back to a flat seat, I lost the space where everything was going to be hidden. As a result we're sort of "back to basics" on the electrical. One of the added cross members was drilled to accept the reg/rec and the (modified) relay mount, and the mount at the back of the battery box that was originally for the under-the-seat mudguard was used to mount a short strut and wiring harness "keeper."
Now I just I need to add a small sub fender under the seat (attached to the same mount) to help keep slop off the battery and electricals. I'll probably make that out of what is left from the front fender project in the next few days.
My only real complaint with the bike so far is that the flat seat is shorter that the "humped" seat was, so I have two stubby little frame ends that stick out on each side of the rear of the seat (that would have otherwise been covered). I'm not sure if they bother me enough to change the seat yet again... but I suspect that sometime in the future they will.
Now on to the exhaust and foot pegs...
Exhaust and Foot Pegs...
Now with the lower seat and bars, the foot peg position needed to be adjusted, and since I hadn't made any decisions about how to mount the exhaust yet, I figured it was easiest to address both at the same time. Originally the plan was for a set of "retro-y" dual exhausts that ran down either side of the bike but a friend of mine is restoring his '80 CX 500 and offered to trade me the pipes I had for this project for a carbon exhaust that he had no use for. After some deliberation I decided to go with his carbon pipe (and lose 20 pounds of exhaust in the process... lol). Besides, the pipes I had were a perfect fit his CX and sometimes you just "gotta help a fella out."
I'd been trolling some of the other threads about moving the rearsets and was ready for a bit of an epic battle but then realized that, at least on the 2005 GS, it's pretty much a cake walk. On the right side, everything of consequence is attached directly to the foot peg mount (master cylinder, brake light actuator, return spring, etc...) so moving the mount moves everything along with it, and on the left side, it's just the foot peg, since the shift lever comes right out of the engine with no linkage, etc.
I just wanted to move the foot pegs back and down about 1 1/2" or so, so it was easy enough to simply make some "extended" mounts out of 1/4" steel and bolt them up. I drilled the front holes on my new mounts to bolt to the frame in place of the original rear sets and then threaded the rear holes to match the existing hardware and voila! I did need to splice longer wiring into the brake light actuator but even with that, it literally took more time for the paint to dry on the mounts than to actually make and install them. I still need to remount the brake fluid reservoir (which looks like it will end up being mounted on an extension off of a longer airbox mounting bolt). It's already in the perfect spot so it seems like the easiest option. I bought an extra set of low profile OE mounting bolts on eBay for the left side (as I used all four of the existing OEs on the right), but they've yet to arrive. I changed the angle of the shift lever a bit to accommodate for the lower peg position, and it's still plenty close after the adjustment.
With the pegs in place, I crafted a new exhaust strap with a short extension to reach one of the rear set mounting holes and that was bolted on. I had to remove the right-most center stand mount to make way for the exhaust, but only to the tune of about 5 minutes of work. As soon as the mounting bolts arrive for the left side, (hopefully later today) that will be the end of this chapter and I can go back to fighting with the speedo wiring again. :hithead:
Yeah, moving back is easy. Moving forward and down, well that's something else entirely. The frame is in the way, the brake m/c won't clear, and how/where to mount the shifter? Your work looks great here.
Hi Bruce,
I'd be happy to mail you my cafe seat which I'm not using. It'a bit longer than yours I think, which should cover those rear spars. And there's room under the rear hump of the seat to hide some electronics.
https://4into1.com/the-brisbane-cafe-seat-black/
Where are you located? Send me a PM if you're interested.
Quote from: mr72 on January 02, 2020, 08:14:46 AM
Yeah, moving back is easy. Moving forward and down, well that's something else entirely. The frame is in the way, the brake m/c won't clear, and how/where to mount the shifter? Your work looks great here.
Thanks much! Starting to see the light at the end, unfortunately it's just in time for it to get REALLY cold here. lol.
Very much enjoying the thread and pics. I appreciate quality work like this!!
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on January 02, 2020, 11:12:11 PM
Very much enjoying the thread and pics. I appreciate quality work like this!!
Glad you are enjoying it... Appreciate the kind words! Slowly but surely it is coming together.
Quote from: brucedavidculver on January 02, 2020, 06:54:47 AM
I still need to remount the brake fluid reservoir (which looks like it will end up being mounted on an extension off of a longer airbox mounting bolt). It's already in the perfect spot so it seems like the easiest option.
Just a quick shot of paint and the mount will be done. Fork brace and front fender going on later today... Whoo hoo!
A little closer everyday. Custom front fender is on. Hoping to gas it up tonight and take it on a quick first test ride... Whoo hoo! Still struggling with the backlight on the Speedo, but it is tagged and up and rideable. Now that the original air box is back on I am hoping that a re-jet will not be needed. The last thing will be the removal of the oil cooler. However, I wasn't thinking when I switched out the original header for the aftermarket pipes and they now run directly under the oil cooler mount which takes up the space where I usually put the bypass... Hmmm.
That will require a bit of creative problem solving (don't all projects though) or some sort of bypass that takes a more circuitous route from in to out... Not my first choice. We'll see.
Snatching defeat from the jaws of victory... :cry:
So with about 95% of the bike done I couldn't resist the temptation to fire it up and take it for a quick spin. I ran the fuel lines, filled the tank and it fired to life without a hitch. With the shorty exhaust and aftermarket pipe it sounded awesome!
I let it warm up in the garage for about 5 minutes, as its only about 25° here, then headed out for a quick up and down the street. Everything was going according to plan until... it stopped dead in its tracks. No lights, no spark, no nothing. :dunno_black: Fortunately it was slightly downhill back home.
My prime suspect is the kill switch. The other day when I was working on the speedo lights, I noticed that the kill switch had a tiny bit of play to it that made the lights flicker if I jiggled it just the right way. I reeaaaally kept trying to convince myself that since I wasn't planning on jiggling the kill switch while I was riding, this was not going to be an issue. lol. Then it seemed to go away so I wasn't that concerned. However, it's apparently back, and now I have no choice but to be concerned. lol. You'd think at my age when the little voice in the back of my head says "just replace the darn thing and be done with it" I would listen. But that would make me, what's the word I'm looking for... oh yeah, "smart."
So, bypassing the kill switch is on the agenda for tomorrow or possibly the weekend, and if that confirms my suspicions I'll get another one on the way. At least the weather for the next 2 days doesn't look that great so I won't have to be bitter about missing any riding opportunities.
I'll post some pictures once it's actually rideable.
I am probably doing it wrong, but I never ever turn off the kill switch on either of my bikes. I actually like how the side stand kills the engine on the triumph and on the GS I just turn the key off. Just another thing to fail without much real world utility imho.
Quote from: mr72 on January 10, 2020, 06:09:25 AM
I am probably doing it wrong, but I never ever turn off the kill switch on either of my bikes. I actually like how the side stand kills the engine on the triumph and on the GS I just turn the key off. Just another thing to fail without much real world utility imho.
Sounds to me like if both bikes work you are doing it right. lol :cheers:
almost there.....ALMOST THERE. (blatant New Hope reference there...lol).
So with the electrical issues resolved (kill switch replaced and speedo wiring done), it's once again a real, live, rideable motorcycle! :woohoo:
After a short shakedown ride, it got 140 miles over the weekend and rode like a champ. The clip-on bars and lowered pegs feel great and the jetting seems to be spot on despite the aftermarket pipe, so I can take that off the to do list for the foreseeable future.
A shorter front brake line arrived today and a matching braided rear should follow shortly, so those will be on the agenda soon. Hopefully I can pick up a cheap fender at an upcoming swap meet later this month to mod for the rear and I'll be 100% done with this one. Good thing too... I just found a 2006 GS 500 F nearby that I expect to have in my garage by month's end... scrambler project maybe???
In any case... posting a quick "almost done" pic below but I'll get some better ones up when the weather cooperates. Definitely grooving on the vintage "sunburst" logos (an eBay find)... just need some numbers on the side plates now to complete the look.
That's looking spanktastic! Can't wait to see some amazing views behind it! Awesome!
Good call on that logo!!
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on January 17, 2020, 09:35:29 AM
That's looking spanktastic! Can't wait to see some amazing views behind it! Awesome!
Good call on that logo!!
Thanks. I was actually pretty psyched on them as well. Didn't go looking for them, just stumbled across them.
Damn that eBay..."Hey if you like that, then you should check out THIS!" lol
I'm always a sucker for those "Recommendations" :technical:
So, as I had hoped, I found a bunch of potential donor fenders at the motorcycle swap in York, PA today... three used ones and one new one all for $12, can't beat that anywhere. I got home and went to work on crafting one of them into the subfender that I wanted to protect the electronics and the battery. Although I had originally planned on using a black fender, a rear white fender from an 1984 Honda XR ended up being the easiest to fit, and I actually liked the white as it matched the paint and the side panels anyway. A little bit of cutting and shaping and it mounted to the back of the battery box, on the same mount that I was already using to keep all the electronics in place.
So with the addition of the subfender, all that remains are some numbers on the side panels and the braided brake lines which are literally coming on a "slow boat from China. Lol.
I am still planning on removing the oil cooler but the aftermarket pipe makes the placement of the bypass a little more challenging than normal so that may wait until I come up with an idea that I like.
Can't wait to get some good miles on it and some better pictures of it to post.
Hey man sick bike, do you happen to have the rearmost mount for the seat and grab bar that you cut off the frame? I would really like to buy it from you
Quote from: 2 Stroke Jamoke on January 27, 2020, 03:34:37 AM
Hey man sick bike, do you happen to have the rearmost mount for the seat and grab bar that you cut off the frame? I would really like to buy it from you
Just sent you a PM. The grab bar is all yours that's all I have. Just shoot me your address and I will send it out.
B.
Almost forgot... After the maiden voyage a week or so ago, it became obvious that a rear fender was going to be needed. Originally, the longer seat that was planned would have provided a little bit of coverage but the short seat that I ended up using mandated a fender (as evidenced by the stripe up the back of my jacket). Lol
I used a rear fender from a Suzuki GN 250 on a previous build and it fit with almost no mods, so after drilling a few holes in one I picked up on eBay for $15, it was ready to go.
I'm still not 10O% happy with the tail of the bike, but for now it serves its purpose.
Now just waiting for some good weather... (and stickers!)
I agree on the fender! You see builds where people don't use any fender and all I think is getting tire mud-spray up my back,...
Finally after a bit of a delay I got around to finishing the few remaining items on this build so I figured I should post some pics to sort of close out the thread. Braided brake line is on... oil cooler is off... and I found a bag for the front that sort of fit the aesthetic (enough) and at least gives me some storage (ok... just the disc lock, registration and insurance cards). Thanks to all that commented on and enjoyed the thread! :thumb:
p.s. I guess I should point out that the "DANGER" sticker on the triple tree is a result of me trying to ride away twice with the disc lock still attached. :hithead: At least in the short term it seems to have solved that problem... it will stay on until I form that new habit.
And a few more...
Gorgeous bike and phenomenal work! The tank and those clip ons look amazing! Great job
Quote from: IdaSuzi on April 21, 2020, 12:58:56 PM
Gorgeous bike and phenomenal work! The tank and those clip ons look amazing! Great job
Thanks... hoping to get started on a a scrambler next. Just waiting for the right donor.
Long time lurker here. Thanks for the great pics. Great project and just what I needed to motivate me with my currently almost stalled 2004 GS500F street tracker build.
Is this the only mod required to bypass the oil cooler?
(http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=73196.0;attach=3810;image)
Quote from: SK Racing on April 28, 2020, 01:33:45 AM
Is this the only mod required to bypass the oil cooler?
(http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=73196.0;attach=3810;image)
I hope so. That's all I've ever done. Lol. I've done it on three or four bikes with no problems.
B.
Quote from: brucedavidculver on May 03, 2020, 07:38:22 AM
I hope so. That's all I've ever done. Lol. I've done it on three or four bikes with no problems.
B.
Thanks for the reply, Bruce. It makes sense, since that's where the oil cooler is connected to the engine. Think I'll do the same.
Christo