So I've been pulling the bike apart to get the head off for a valve job. This is because of excessive oil usage. About 2 litres/1000 miles.
Checking the plugs makes me believe that the right piston has a failed seal on either of the valves. However, they're cheap enough and all the same so I'm going to replace all four of them.
The problem comes when I'm trying to get the head off. Since the head doesn't come out with the engine in place. I'm trying to remove the front engine mount and one of the back ones so I can tip the engine forward a little bit for some more clearance.
However, the front one is just seized solid. The nut has come off quite easily. But the big long bolt is just refusing to come out. I tried leaving the nut on it and beating on it with a hammer. About 10 minutes of that and it still refused. I then got a 3/8 drive bar out and tried twisting the head on the other side. It broke the drive off in the socket and ruined my bar.
This bolt is just refusing to come out. Any other ideas?
This doesn't help with the engine bolts buuuuuuut.... the head does come off with the engine in the frame. Don't take the engine out unless you are doing bottom end work.
You have to lift the head straight up perfectly. Not easy, but it will come out.
My GS500 is currently getting the exhaust valves and rings replaced and looks like this (not my photo):
(https://web.archive.org/web/20190630235114im_/http://beergarage.com/imgs/GS/HeadOff/27.jpg)
(https://web.archive.org/web/20190630225946im_/http://beergarage.com/imgs/GS/HeadOn/81.jpg)
I had this same problem. In the end I cut bolt off through the (pricy is bought new) spacers and removed the entire engine that way.
Once its out and you have decent access you can dremel a section of the bolt out from under the mounting section on the front end the engine, this means you are only fighting one side at a time. You can drill through the stuck bolt from either side then use a hacksaw blade to cut a slot through the bolt relieving some of the corroded skank pressure.
(https://oy8w5w.dm.files.1drv.com/y4mYpfAjbEQiYUGeauvmK_thhDtNN8Z0swcWYG0oWMDj1N3I-ZgC9S6TYS4ZAdBPgGVwGfPpRyruWm3qzr_1j574JS8W0HPTulLhgNr85ulYN4Ma-4gGBR-3F-LJ4Dic_Nqff2gXfhJNG44y_GqsiIlNKfZHCNkw3ykiSbsRLyDo12dmN5gHgb40sc8LQ15t7aQzevEffL_5kOrfpkMopE6VA?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
(https://oi8r5w.dm.files.1drv.com/y4mKRkL3e91mrpO-DrKFICuXxmE4w66aJHPP80_KLVMZ4LkrIncd0aCfKFeWf002B4j_3cMKxsgyFOJpwclDFs0TyP98NuTDtJQYdCkhohifB-StfyjF5JxKFINo__VEx2gSCfooWRdDHhvYdibaOocEchKObkMJCdeH2mM8_uZnI-9TO_nSftPi4XorMA-1uXSucirRWewZDjJEgn_lfBBBw?width=495&height=660&cropmode=none)
(https://oi8m5w.dm.files.1drv.com/y4mjczcGthlGTg96ay3kAxKtSaf1mBEU9oZcIJKx9CXXP-da40808SW_9xF_kdXLmKynVM_o06MP8DJ0ypWvlvQaCTRQJ98ov9z3JAq-te371SYdJhM0sv_1XJQu-e4Ys98LSqZaonBFBohOvQnfyX1lMdkU3p68leYgQxQMpySGsXcSJgrg6d6JHch_DMQHiAVZlEnHvIY5Ser3_lge-GHTA?width=768&height=1024&cropmode=none)
That last picture is the chunks, the middly bit you can just about make out has the slot cut through. You need to use (cheapo) carbide drill bits (or at least I did) and don't let the metal work harden - use a firm pressure at a low speed letting the bit do the work. Use of heat and plusgas (I forget what thats called in America?) penetrating fluid can help but heat is hard to keep in the bolt what with it being an aircooled engine and all.
middle picture is the various nicks and marks I made in the very soft alloy of the engine.
beating it with a hammer runs the risk of smashing the entire mount, although its probably ok with only 3. Looks crap though.
I spent ages (months) on this until I bought a dremel. dremels (or anything like them) are wicked.
As Bluesmudge says you shouldn't need to pull the whole engine to do this. I had to because my valve cover was seized on and I had no other choice.
edit! pb blaster!
That was pretty much the plan for tomorrow. But with a proper die grinder instead of one of those anemic Dremels. It’s soaking up some penetrating fluid overnight so I can have one last go with the copper hammer.
Also, I wasn’t planning on dropping the whole engine. Just letting the front pivot down on the rear mounting bolt so there’s just a little extra room. Somebody said it moves about 1/4 inch before resting on the frame. I only need a couple mill to squeeze the head out.
Don't forget the Heat Spanner!
Quote from: Bluesmudge on January 03, 2020, 01:16:05 PM
This doesn't help with the engine bolts buuuuuuut.... the head does come off with the engine in the frame. Don't take the engine out unless you are doing bottom end work.
You have to lift the head straight up perfectly. Not easy, but it will come out.
My GS500 is currently getting the exhaust valves and rings replaced and looks like this
I did try and get the head off with the engine in place again today but, still failed. The studs are just too long. Using a small hacksaw I've managed to make a cut through one of the spacers right next to the engine mount which has allowed me to remove 1/3 of the rod. Then my hacksaw blade broke but I'm going to do the same on the other side and possibly grind the head off of the bolt so I can remove it.
I don't think I'll have to start chopping the engine mount up to get the bolt out of there. It just seems to be the spacers that have seized to the bolt.
Spacers are going to be replaced with some thick wall stainless tubing and I might just replace the bolt with a bit of all thread.
Mine had seized into the spacers as well as the mounting. The more you can separate the bits the smaller the areas of corrosion are putting up a resistance.
(https://ps8o5w.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m-INCPBOI_Z62ds89wHEEXKGs7KSJXyBBeKdCJYYyA-HVgR8TR-3FQpHSeK7Q-w-vBKdPyPd1z9onH2OUMvcyF2Q2-IJD4oRMUPb74IuVIKoRu5wWZjYzH_Z0-DH1mvFAxaxYaE9Us4qMAhHtv8pYhdmY9aTHN_51olrVtMewClOZvPKreCrznKIReKn9PpmtMhAgXCCtXuhesDa9cdH14w?width=1024&height=768&cropmode=none)
An OEM bolt is about £25... Threaded bar might be a better long term idea if anything as the corrosion has the thread to form into rather than locking up the whole arrangement. Aluminium might be better for not corroding at all but might be a bit weak.
I think I'm just going to replace the lot with stainless and make sure there's a good amount of grease in there. If the space is filled with grease then there's no room for all that shaZam! to get in and bind it up.
I was able to remove the piece of bolt from the spacer I removed and both of those parts are steel and rusted. So hopefully the steel bolt won't have attached itself to the aluminium? engine mount too much.
Well, turns out the mounting is seized to crap as well. Hmmmm. Time for a bit of drilling I think.
Okay well, Haven't gotten round to removing the stuck bit of rod but I did manage to get the head off. Valves are out (Thankfully they're all straight). But, having never done this before. I have no clue how to get the valve stem seals out. Anyone advise?
Should just pull out, they are a press fit.
Thanks for that. Apparently there are special pliers for removing them but I managed to grab the edge of the metal bit and wiggle them off. New ones went on with an 11mm socket and some gentle tapping.