Been a lurker for a few years and decided to document the progress of my current project.
In February 2017 I acquired a 2004 GS500F in a barter transaction. The bike had been standing outside in the sun and rain for three years prior to landing in my garage. It wouldn't start and upon closer inspection, I found water in the fuel tank and float bowls. That was soon remedied and it started easily with the new battery that the previous owner had bought just a month before. The bike had done 23,400km since new, so fairly low mileage, but it had been dropped and I got it with scratched fairing and right hand engine cover.
The idea is to change this:
(https://i.imgur.com/s8OtVCk.jpg)
...into this:
(https://i.imgur.com/bBv0sFL.jpg)
Update Jan 2022: This is what it looks like now. Still some work to be done, but it is close to what I envisioned.
I've been riding it like this since May 2021 and get asked a lot of questions at shopping malls. Even offers to buy it. I'm also getting used to the strange turning behavior with those big tires. It felt totally wrong in the beginning, but I'm not sorry I put them on.
(https://i.imgur.com/KJ9atyB.jpg)
Mechanically, the bike was in surprisingly good condition. The plastic side covers and the scratched fairing were removed and after a few minor cosmetic repairs, the bike passed roadworthy at the first attempt in May 2017 and ownership was changed into my name.
While riding the bike for about 3,000km, various parts were replaced or upgraded as my budget allowed.
(https://i.imgur.com/vMYKpZ9.jpg)
An imported stainless steel slip-on muffler was installed, together with K&N-style pod air filters and 145 main jets.
(https://i.imgur.com/k6AbDyS.jpg)
Performance improved only slightly, and the engine still had some hesitation round 7000 RPM, accompanied by excessive vibration. I stripped the carbs again and this time also opened up the top covers and saw that one diaphragm had been pinched by the cover. The diaphragm didn't seem to be damaged and I assembled the carbs again. Performance improved dramatically and the 7000 RPM hesitation as well as the vibration had gone away. The prognosis is that one cylinder wasn't working optimally due to the pinched diaphragm.
The front fairing was removed and I designed 3mm stainless steel brackets and had them laser cut to mount the LED headlight (also imported from China) directly to the triple tree. So too the front LED turn indicators, although I'm considering removing the latter and installing handlebar-end indicators which will hopefully also negate the need for rear indicators.
(https://i.imgur.com/CyZqdCa.jpg)
This is what the bike looked like for more than a year. I taped up the red and silver on the tank to get an idea of what a plain color would look like and the idea of the "nude look" grew on me as time went by.
(https://i.imgur.com/64p81Ba.jpg)
The original handlebar was replaced with an off-road classic style handlebar. Emgo #23-924102.
I cut approx. 2cm off each end to get through traffic easier.
(https://i.imgur.com/GmFVPEU.jpg)
Being a frugal builder, I managed to locate and purchase at a bargain price, a virtually new Kenda Big Block tire (130-80/17) with almost no wear. It had only been on grass for a short distance. A similar new tire will be used for the rear. Before making the purchase, I had made very sure that the bulky tire will fit in the front fork, and it fits only just, with barely 2mm gap each side.
(https://i.imgur.com/WmuAUts.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/U2ZECAT.jpg)
At this stage, I had decided to go for the "street tracker" style. That means the sub-frame will have to be modified in order to become a proper street tracker. I know it's a big task involving the making of a new custom seat as well. With the envisioned new sub-frame, the aim was to have an uncluttered under-seat area and therefore there would not be space for the bulky lead-acid battery.
After researching various options, I decided on a Lithium-Iron Phosphate battery. So, a 4-cell LiFePO4 battery (meant for RC model planes) was purchased (the only one locally available in a reasonable Amp/hour capacity) and thicker cables were soldered on to handle the high starting amps. Compared to the standard Pb battery, this LiFePO4 battery is minute, not only physically, but also capacity-wise at only 3.8 A/h. That's roughly a third of the capacity of the original 10 A/h battery, but it starts the engine with ease and I used it for about 3 months without any problems - until the sub-frame got modified, which was the last time I rode it.
(https://i.imgur.com/JolA48O.jpg)
A BMS (Battery Management System) was added to safeguard against overcharging and to ensure that the four cells are kept balanced at all times.
Since the engine is only 500cc, I opted for a 100Amp BMS and so far it has been working flawlessly. I've checked multiple times and the 4 cells stay in balance and the bike starts easily. Without the BMS, one cell tends to overcharge, so it's clear that a BMS is necessary.
This is the model that I bought, however from a different supplier (who is out of stock now):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4S-100A-12-8V-w-Balance-LiFePo4-LiFe-18650-Battery-Cell-BMS-PCB-Protection-Board-/263385524359 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/4S-100A-12-8V-w-Balance-LiFePo4-LiFe-18650-Battery-Cell-BMS-PCB-Protection-Board-/263385524359)
(https://i.imgur.com/uodCNF7.jpg)
Although I put heatshrink around the BMS, the ends are still open. I'll have to properly seal the ends to keep moisture out by liberally brushing on some conformal coating. (available at electronics shops, like Mouser, RS, etc.)
(https://i.imgur.com/Nhi6iGJ.jpg)
As we GS500 riders are painfully aware, the engine needs to be started on choke when cold, and invariably, it would stop running while you're in the house waiting for it to warm up. So, to prevent the headlight from draining the tiny battery when the engine stops running, I designed and built an electronic gadget to only let the headlight be on when the engine is running, and thus, charging the battery. The gadget gets its input from one phase of the alternator and is controlled by an ATTiny-85 microprocessor which allows setting the on and off voltage points precisely. Switching is done electronically via a MOSFET that can handle 30A. Since the headlight only draws 4A on high beam, no heatsink is required.
Another advantage of this "auto headlight switch" is that the headlight will stay off until 3 seconds (adjustable) after starting, which will help with cranking the engine in cold weather.
(https://i.imgur.com/vNOY2dU.jpg)
Good stuff here! Loving it!
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on April 29, 2020, 08:03:08 AM
Good stuff here! Loving it!
Thanks cbr. There is still a lot of work to be done. :D
I could already feel a handling difference after removing some unnecessary weight, like the center stand, fairings and heavy battery.
In December 2019, I took the bike to a local guy that does tig-welding (or was it mig? not sure) for construction of the new sub-frame. Working from CAD drawings I had made onto an overlay of a side view of a naked GS500F, he welded on a round tube sub-frame that I'm mostly happy with. There are always compromises in projects and this case was no exception. But I think the bike will turn out almost as planned.
I can already feel a handling difference after removing some unnecessary weight, like the center stand, fairings, rear footrest brackets, bulky battery, etc.
I totally agree with cbr... great pics and thread! I enjoy seeing this kind of stuff. Thank you for sharing and I'm looking forward to more.
Thanks for stopping by, ShowBiz. And thanks for the compliment. Your own thread and also those of many others have been a real inspiration on my journey with the GS so far.
Some of the stuff that I ordered from China got stuck in Hong Kong during the strikes there last year (2019). The parcel contains new smaller speedo and tacho, handlebar grips and levers, as well as handlebar switches.
Fortunately, in a previous order, I received an LED taillight which fits very neatly under the rear hoop. I needed to have the taillight in my hands while designing and making the rear hoop to ensure that its a good fit.
(https://i.imgur.com/yDts4Cx.jpg)
The next step is to sand the sub-frame down and paint it.
But in January 2020 my back started acting up and I had to undergo spinal surgery in February. That ended my ability to work on the bike for the time being, but I'm hoping to resume the project in a few months. Typical recovery time is anything from six months to a year. In the meantime, since I'm able to sit behind a computer screen, I have decided to post about my GS500 Restomod build on GSTwins. Need to keep motivated... ;)
Expect updates as and when it happens.
Hey your build looks great! I also like the flat look on the tank and I am going to be painting my tank this summer, once it finally warms up here in the frozen north. Keep up the good work, and hope you have a swift, complete recovery!
Thanks for the compliment and good wishes, IdaSuzi. I'm taking it one day at a time. So far there has been a steady improvement with my back. At least I can walk again. It's just difficult to bend over to do some work on the bike for instance. But I'll get there.
What color are you thinking of making the tank? I'm leaning towards blue for safety. A black bike is not very visible on the road.
Seeing that I'm restoring the bike as well as modifying it, I've been gathering information on how to replate nuts, bolts and other small parts. Nickel plating seems the way to go. If anyone has experience with DIY nickel plating, I'd like to know your opinion on how successful it can be done at home. I've stumbled upon this blog and it seems quite easy to do: http://yamaha-ls3.blogspot.com/2015/02/diy-nickel-plating-bolts-and-nuts.html (http://yamaha-ls3.blogspot.com/2015/02/diy-nickel-plating-bolts-and-nuts.html)
Welcome to the club!
I think our bikes share a few design cues and random pieces :cheers:
So cool to see fellow GS owners from around the world.
Your auto headlight switch is brilliant. Looks like you've got plenty of electronics know-how!
Hi Endo, thanks for making me feel welcome here. It seems there is a real nice bunch of people hanging out at GSTwins.
Yes, our bikes will have a lot in common. I have to admit looking at your build while designing my bike. In fact, your thread about the R6 shock was invaluable and I've decided to do the same. Thanks for the "how-to" with pictures. The softer ride will probably be easier on my back.
It's a pity that Photobucket ruined your pictures with watermarks. If you still have access to the pictures, maybe you want to replace those and upload it to the server, or better still, to imgur.com (http://imgur.com) like I've done now.
I'm definitely not an electronics expert. Rather an amateur electronics tinkerer. I've picked up some electronics knowledge while tinkering with Arduino and designing the odd circuit on my own, but mostly I build other people's circuits. The auto headlight switch is my own design, though.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino)
I like to make drawings before I build stuff. Here is the Photoshopped image again of what I'm aiming for with this build.
And before anyone comments about the lack of fenders, let me say that I only use the bike for short trips on good weather days.
(https://i.imgur.com/LbVSxlw.jpg)
Btw, I borrowed one of Joao Kleber Design's renders of the GS500 as basis for my concept picture. It made life a lot easier. Thanks Joao! :thumb:
(https://i.imgur.com/qtN6NOx.jpg)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MRBmjErHLsc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MRBmjErHLsc)
I'll have to make some changes to the wiring harness to relocate the small battery, regulator and other electronics under the seat. To make life easier, I've purchased a box of 50 sets of electrical connector terminals in 2, 3, 4, 6, & 9 pin configurations via eBay. 10 sets of each size should be enough.
The connectors are 2.8 mm size, so not compatible with the standard GS connectors, but I don't mind. I prefer the smaller size for this application anyway.
(https://i.imgur.com/PGv8Fcf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/p2FS0Cz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wcx5G4G.jpg)
As mentioned before, there is a parcel of mine stuck in Hong Kong. Hopefully I'll receive it in the not too distant future.
This is what the parcel contains: hand grips, clutch & brake levers and instrument set. Can't make up my mind if I should just mount the speedo and leave the tacho off. I like the clean look of minimal cockpit instruments.
(https://i.imgur.com/xgPZNwc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/30dyg1t.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fbsGneg.jpg)
I'd also like to get new handlebar switches
(https://i.imgur.com/bqRcFAP.jpg)
Planned modifications and upgrades: (https://i.imgur.com/8mXBSU3.jpg)
- LED Headlight - DONE
- SS brackets for headlight - DONE
- SS slip-on muffler - DONE
- LiFePO4 battery + BMS - DONE
- Custom sub-frame – Needs painting
- Custom seat
- R6 rear shock
- Sonic front springs
- Shortie levers
- 60mm Speedometer
- LED cockpit pilot lights - BOUGHT
- LED taillight - DONE
- Bar-end indicators
- Kenda Big Block tires – BOUGHT one
- Braided steel brake lines - BOUGHT
- New rear brake reservoir - BOUGHT
- New front and rear sprockets
- New rear brake rotor
- Detab and paint frame
- Paint tank
- Paint wheels
- Nickel plate various bolts & brackets
- 3D carbon fibre vinyl where seat covered tank - BOUGHT
- New ignition cover and emblem plate
- Lengthen kickstand to suit bigger tires
- Low profile footpegs
Great thread (and welcome). Looking forward to watching it progress. Love the concept pic.
B.
Hi SK, love where you're going with the bike.
Looking forward to seeing how you build your sub-frame. The welding and tube bending was the hardest part of my build. The bike looks really good with all that open space at the tail. If your bike ends up in the same direction, replacing the massive airbox with a single K&N is a nice touch. Hope Buddha doesn't see this, as he thinks it was a horrible idea :hithead:
But I've gotten lucky with the jetting so far. I think 2004 has the three jet carbs, so you can try my combo. I also got rid of as many vacuum sources as I could, like the petcock and PAIR (air injection into the exhaust).
I live in SF, California so maybe same latitude as you, just on opposite side of the equator? It only takes my bike a minute to warm up on choke, so haven't had a problem with my headlight draining battery on startup. Though I do have twin LEDs so maybe that helps.
Sorry about picture links. I suppose I should update the pics, but then I would have to go back and edit all my mess of old posts.
PS the R6 shock was the best modification I've done to the bike, along with the stiffer Sonic Springs for the front.
Quote from: brucedavidculver on May 03, 2020, 07:46:46 AM
Great thread (and welcome). Looking forward to watching it progress. Love the concept pic.
B.
Thanks for the welcome Bruce. Yeah, it's one thing to draw a picture, but to make a bike look like that is a different thing altogether. Even worse if you don't do the welding and bending yourself. I've decided to not use my arc welder, but to have the welding done by a professional. It turns out not every contractor with a tig welder is professional.
Christo
Hi Endo
As I've said to Bruce above, I'm not totally happy with the sub-frame. It's built now, but the contractor started complaining halfway through the job and nearly didn't complete the job. I paid him extra in the end, although I wasn't completely happy with the sub-frame. Maybe I'm too hard to please.
I'd love to show you guys a picture of the sub-frame, but can't get myself to take a pic before I've sanded away all the rust that has built up while I was in hospital and till now. I'll do it sometime in the next month I hope. Today was a good day for my back and if it continues to improve at this rate, I'll be working on the bike soon.
Yes, with the airbox gone, there really is a lot of open space in the rear. I love it !!! I've even turned the petcock 90 deg clockwise so the fuel lines don't stick out the back, but go downwards - leaving as much open space as possible in that open rear area.
Guess I've been lucky with the jetting too. The engine runs well on 17.5, 60, 145 jets with the pods. I have sets of 142.5 and 140 main jets as well, so I can fine-tune if necessary. I live at 1300m altitude. Maybe I should get 20 pilot jets just to see if it helps with starting.
I'd really love to get the R6 shock. I could get one last year, but spent my budget on something else instead. I should hear if it's still available.
I've redone all my pictures last night. Uploaded them to Imgur and used the BBCode (Forums) link. Then I inserted width=400 in the [ img ] tag. That sizes it down to 400 pixels and makes it clickable for full size. That's a cool feature of this forum.
Christo
Quote from: SK Racing on May 02, 2020, 03:49:35 AM
(https://i.imgur.com/xgPZNwc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/30dyg1t.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fbsGneg.jpg)
Just wondering if you've received the speedo/tach combo yet and if so what you think of the quality? I'm looking for something similar for my upcoming scrambler build and although I've used dime city stuff in the past, those look nice (and I'm sure are a lot cheaper).
Quote from: brucedavidculver on May 10, 2020, 01:05:14 PM
Just wondering if you've received the speedo/tach combo yet and if so what you think of the quality? I'm looking for something similar for my upcoming scrambler build and although I've used dime city stuff in the past, those look nice (and I'm sure are a lot cheaper).
No, I'm afraid not. I've ordered it from Banggood and I don't think the couriers are doing much atm.
The price is US$26, which I think is a very good. I've seen quite a few builds using these instruments, so I thought, why not take a chance?
Link: https://www.banggood.com/Universal-LED-Motorcycle-Black-TachometerOdometer-Speedometer-Gauge-w-Bracket-p-1187213.html (https://www.banggood.com/Universal-LED-Motorcycle-Black-TachometerOdometer-Speedometer-Gauge-w-Bracket-p-1187213.html)
Finally made some progress.
Yesterday and today I wire brushed and sanded most of the rust off of the sub-frame. The sub-frame was made late last year, but I couldn't do any work due to health issues. I've now recovered enough to start working on the bike again. :2guns:
Note that the tank bracket is now welded to the sub-frame. Tank removal is easily accomplished by removing the two bolts at the rear of the tank via the open space underneath.
(https://i.imgur.com/YhebLNc.jpg)
The sub-frame is not painted yet, but I gave the sanded areas a coating of Deoxidine to prevent the exposed steel from rusting again. I wish that I could have done that last year already.
(https://i.imgur.com/pPH77r7.jpg)
New bracket to rotate the petcock 90 degrees clockwise to keep the fuel lines out of sight.
(https://i.imgur.com/amgUa4s.jpg)
The curve of the hoop matches the shape of the taillight.
(https://i.imgur.com/IgSysOU.jpg)
Hey Christo, that looks fantastic!
The bracing on your sub-frame looks a lot sturdier than mine :cheers:
What are your plans for the seat? Did you find some pre-made one that fits? Or will you be custom building that as well?
Thanks Endo. I'm glad that I used a professional welder to make the sub-frame.
Next step after priming the sub-frame, will be to mount the battery and other electronic parts onto the steel plate under the seat.
Following that, I have to make a cover from wood to cover the electronics. The wood cover will be the mold for a fiberglass seat pan and will be discarded afterwards. So, I guess I'll be doing it the hard way. No pre-made seat will fit anyway.
I'm also planning to use the standard key and cable latch to lock the seat in place, like you've done.
Christo
A lot of people want that "empty frame triangle"
IMHO nothing screams hammered together in my backyard than that, and exposed nuts and bolts.
Your frame triangle could use an appropriate sized storage box - just thinking out loud.
And I'd have made it to fit and old school like a Z1 or other bike's triangular side cover, so you can slap that on the storage box.
Pretend like it came off the factory looking that way. For good measure, leave the emblem of the Z1 intact and get one that was the same color as the tank etc etc if it was available. As in all original paint faded, patina etc etc and make the frame to fit it. Would fool people who know needless to say those that don't.
Cool.
Buddha,
Quote from: The Buddha on May 16, 2020, 10:38:37 AM
A lot of people want that "empty frame triangle"
And I guess I'm one of those people. ;)
Thanks for the idea of adding a storage box, but it's not going to happen. :nono:
I actually went to a lot of trouble to source a LiFePO
4 battery and making it work - for the explicit reason of having that empty triangle. I'm after the minimalist look for this bike. It's not a commuter, it's a toy and tbh, it won't even have a rev counter. Even the oil cooler is coming off.
The thing is, I know the bike is in good condition mechanically. I rode it for nearly three years and put 3200km on it. But now I feel like restoring it. The weathered look has been bugging me big time. No patina for me anymore! That's why the title reads "Restomod". I'm hoping to restore it down to the last exposed nut and bolt while modding it. Ok, I won't go overboard like the guys with show bikes do, but I think you know what I mean.
The downside is, if it's not done right, it will look like it's been "hammered together in my backyard". So, I hope I'll be able to pull it off. Let's wait and see.
Don't worry Christo. Buddha hated the "empty triangle" on my bike too >:(
In the end,it's all about what makes you happy, and no one else!
Yeah, thanks for the encouragement, Endo.
If we all had the same taste, our bikes would all look the same. Just think how boring that would be. :roll:
Btw, I had some success with DIY nickel plating. The process is quite easy and it works really well. I'll prolly do a write-up here someday, but what I've learned from it is more important than the success I've had so far; It is crucial to do proper preparation, i.e. polishing beforehand. And in some cases it's better to start with new bolts and re-plating those, than trying to dress up damaged bolt heads.
And in other cases, plating is not even necessary. Like the fat-headed bolts holding the main footrest back-plate to the frame. Those polish up very nicely if chucked into a drill chuck and spun while polishing with Brasso or similar polishing fluid. The hex recess can be polished with an earbud and Brasso.
(https://i.imgur.com/wEVsUZE.jpg)
Really enjoying this thread and your build... lots of thought and attention to detail going into it. Keep up the awesome work. Can't wait to see the finished product.
If you want that empty look IMHO the better way to get it is to get rid of that bottom leg of the triangle completely. Sort of like those XB9 buells, but that cast tail was just massive on those.
Should be a way to get the top rail stiff enough and short enough to be able to stand the weight etc .
Then all you have to do is to block off the carbs and filters from getting splattered by road crap.
I dunno, that backyard welded and hammered together look isn't appealing to me. I guess I like all stock bikes from the 70's, so to me a big frame triangle is a missed opportunity to slap a big 70's side cover on it.
Cool.
Buddha.
I don't know whether you're referring to the look or the workmanship. The pictures may have been taken in my backyard, but the sub-frame certainly wasn't "backyard welded and hammered together". I enlisted the services of a professional craftsman to bend and MIG weld the sub-frame from a drawing I made.
If it's the look, then let's agree to disagree on that. :D
The cantilever seat look doesn't appeal to me at all. There are as many ways to customize a GS500 as there are owners wanting to give their GS500 their personal touch.
Hey Buddha
I bet the empty triangle on this bike will freak you out. :cheers:
(https://i.imgur.com/RieyALm.jpg)
And this is pure poetry. :thumb:
I could have done the same, but I didn't want to copy someone else's idea. (although I used the same muffler)
(https://i.imgur.com/g9cX6VX.jpg)
Quote from: SK Racing on May 17, 2020, 08:52:13 AM
And this is pure poetry. :thumb:
I could have done the same, but I didn't want to copy someone else's idea. (although I used the same muffler)
(https://i.imgur.com/g9cX6VX.jpg)
This is gorgeous. If they left the airbox in it - even better. The GS is one of those unique bikes that has the airbox only partially in the frame triangle - awesome to cram all the electrics in the tail cowl and make it look and function right with the airbox.
Cool.
Buddha.
That's a blast from the past! That bike from So Low Choppers in the UK was what originally got me to buy a GS500 for my cafe project. http://www.bikebound.com/2016/03/30/suzuki-gs500-cafe-racer/
Getting a custom rear cowl made turned out to be too difficult, so I finally went with the Ducati seat.
SK - that was horrible of you to post a technique for polishing bolt heads. No I have to go back to the garage to buff up all my bits >:(
Buddha - I guess I do have a thing for twin headlights and an empty tail. The other bike in my garage just happens to be an Buell XB9SX. So much fun to ride with all that V-twin torque and rumble.
Endo, just think how nice and shiny your bolts will be. :woohoo:
Today I purchased two banjos for bypassing the oil cooler. Will be using silver solder to join them together.
(https://i.imgur.com/8wPlzUO.jpg)
Eager to see how you do that!
That'll clean up the front end even more. But isn't that extra oil cooling a good thing to keep around?
I have an aftermarket dash on mine, so I'm not sure if its temperature reading is accurate or signifies anything bad. But if I push it hard up a long hill at speed, the red light starts blinking madly (I think the temp limit I set was 260-280F). The temperature sensor is nothing more than a copper washer threaded under the left spark plug. Any idea what a healthy cylinder head temperature at that spot is supposed to be?
brucedavidculver has a nice picture of how he bypassed the oil cooler.
It's just two banjos welded together.
(http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=73196.0;attach=3810;image)
I read somewhere that since the oil coolers were only introduced when the 2004 F-models with fairings came out, it stands to reason that a naked GS500 doesn't really need an oil cooler. It gets quite hot around where I live, but since I don't ride much and never long distances, I'm willing to take a chance to get an even more bare bones look.
How's this build going? I was enjoying the thread.
B.
Hey Bruce. It's coming along slowly, but steadily. I'm working on the bike almost every day. The last few days I've been sanding the sub-frame in preparation for a primer coat. It's getting cold over here in South Africa and I may take a break from that for a week or so, because I don't have a proper enclosed workshop. Fortunately, our winters are much milder than most countries', and therefore I should be able to do some work outside when it's not too cold or windy.
I'm also busy making my own nickel plating setup. That's something I can do indoors. I've already tested to see if it works and I'm confident that I'll be able to do a satisfactory job on nickel plating some bolts and brackets, and also the gear and brake levers after some polishing.
I've decided to do a "reservoir delete" on the rear brake, and today I bought a short piece of acetal rod to make a bung (stopper) for the tube. I'll turn it on my century old watchmakers lathe.
I'm busy testing some clear tubing (that I got from the hardware store) by immersing it in Dot 4 brake fluid and after two days, the piece of tubing seems unaffected by the brake fluid. I'll leave it in there for a week or two before deciding if it's going to cut it. Tygon 2375 is the proper tubing to use, but it's really expensive to import. You guys are so lucky to have the nice stuff locally.
Some example pics off the Internet:
(https://i.imgur.com/pkm5u3X.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kI35RIX.jpg)
Today, BikeBound featured this custom CB750 Honda and I immediately thought of how The Buddha dislikes the empty triangle on custom builds. I, obviously think it's gorgeous, but to each his own.
https://bikebound.us11.list-manage.com/track/click?u=7698f70058e535385c6ba6f80&id=05c73ddf74&e=5b8b7192db (https://bikebound.us11.list-manage.com/track/click?u=7698f70058e535385c6ba6f80&id=05c73ddf74&e=5b8b7192db)
(https://i.imgur.com/ojd6WOq.jpg)
Not as annoying as the side mount license plate though. LOL.
Cool.
Buddha.
"Your own nickel plating set up?" "Century old watchmaker's lathe?" Man... you are what I want to be when I grow up. :thumb: lol
Wait... at 50 it may be too late for that.
I have to say, the reservoir delete has me inspired. I feel like the café racer needs that now.
A frame triangle can just simply not exist - on a twin shock bike that's harder to do, but a Mono shock bike can have a closed up box under the cantilevered seat. Don't put a "electrical tray" full of crap between the frame rails - put it in a box that also holds up the tail and seat and all. Plenty of room, no retarded looking empty frame triangle - cos there's no "frame triangle" - as much as on a GS I like the airbox - its secondary. A GS with open K&N lunch box doesn't look as stupid as this one does.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: SK Racing on June 11, 2020, 02:30:25 PM
https://bikebound.us11.list-manage.com/track/click?u=7698f70058e535385c6ba6f80&id=05c73ddf74&e=5b8b7192db (https://bikebound.us11.list-manage.com/track/click?u=7698f70058e535385c6ba6f80&id=05c73ddf74&e=5b8b7192db)
(https://i.imgur.com/ojd6WOq.jpg)
Wow... drooool....
Think of how much sexier that bike could be without the rear triangle, and swap out those duals for a monoshock
Just coming from a guy who loves his open K&N and egregiously cantilevered tail :D
Quote from: brucedavidculver on June 11, 2020, 06:56:35 PM
"Your own nickel plating set up?"
I'm forced to do that out of necessity, since I can't get any spares for the GS from the lethargic local Suzuki dealership. DIY Nickel plating is not that difficult to do at home. I'll share some pics once my setup is complete.
Quote
I have to say, the reservoir delete has me inspired. I feel like the café racer needs that now.
I'm glad that you also like it. lol
Quote from: SK Racing on May 17, 2020, 08:19:41 AM
I don't know whether you're referring to the look or the workmanship. The pictures may have been taken in my backyard, but the sub-frame certainly wasn't "backyard welded and hammered together". I enlisted the services of a professional craftsman to bend and MIG weld the sub-frame from a drawing I made.
If it's the look, then let's agree to disagree on that. :D
The cantilever seat look doesn't appeal to me at all. There are as many ways to customize a GS500 as there are owners wanting to give their GS500 their personal touch.
The look was not about workmanship or anything else - In fact some of the worst retarded cases of side license plate atrocities I have seen have the best welds and gorgeous paint jobs. I actually prefer the "patina" You've heard my jokes about fitting honda and Kawasaki and whatever else parts on the bike that happened to be the same color and leaving the logos on - don't paint any of it. If you have a black GS buy black kawi and Yamaha etc etc and fab the metal sub frames etc etc to fit that.
Sort of like my raked out savage -
Had a KX125 front end, Harley risers to name a few. It got rear ended before I got a chance to finish machining the triples - which was the only part I actually fabricated. It didn't say Kawasaki on the forks, and my savage tank and tins were already logo less - I powdercoated them silver for a different reason and ended up using it in its final form. Or it was only a trial form cos literally on its first ride out of my neighborhood it got rear ended, and I never messed with it again - I sold it.
But if I had names and model numbers etc, I'd have left em.
I know my bike definitely has no workmanship or BS but in a sort of way - I want it to look "stock" and aged and color matching is just very loose. In fact that bike was also on with blue savage livery and the original rear fender and seat etc. I still have the blue savage tins cos they were near perfect. Didn't want to cut and drill out the fender brace on it.
BTW cantilevered doesn't mean sticking up steep - physics definition of cantilever - only held at one end.
You can get that by using a box that actually gives you the room for the electrical as well as protect the carbs/filter and electricals also from crap thrown over by the rear wheel.
So you'd clear out and cut the lower rail. Then make a box that has the volume you need but the lower edge of it also has a little angle or square tubing to hold the seat up. I'd actually make it all unboltable from the frame. That way you have no sub frame triangle - you have a sub frame cantilever the seat can be a tiny café seat and this is hiding in plain sight.
Not unlike that bike you linked with the same exhaust you have.
People make electrical trays all the time, and put it between the upper rails under the café hump. That's IMHO inherently harder and while it does get that empty frame triangle look - in a monoshock bike - you got it made in the shade just put it under the seat and cantilever fit the seat completely.
That bike you posted has a good look. I'll have to see what they did for the seat if there's a build thread on it etc. Whose build is it - someone here ?
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: SK Racing on May 17, 2020, 08:52:13 AM
And this is pure poetry. :thumb:
I could have done the same, but I didn't want to copy someone else's idea. (although I used the same muffler)
(https://i.imgur.com/g9cX6VX.jpg)
I think there was a build thread on this - I remember asking him why he used a round tube for the tail.
Anyway I need to find that thread but what I was saying is for example - where the top rail and bottom rails go put a threaded ear or lug. Then that frame rail set can be hidden in a box which is bolted on and seat goes on top of that and the rear hump - well it is so pretty - it could just be left but empty.
Or in this bike I guess that space already has stuff in it - dunno what but its got something. Just a slightly different way to do the same thing I guess. The beauty of a GS is that the airbox is completely under the tank, you can leave it in place and a few cubin inches of space is all we need for the electrics.
Cool.
Buddha.
Just a quick update. Today I turned a bung from the acetal rod that I bought yesterday. It came out pretty well and even has a tiny (0.6mm) ventilation hole.
Bung pictured with PVC tubing:
(https://i.imgur.com/FNDyZFy.jpg)
Then I checked on the piece of PVC tubing that I'm testing in the brake fluid and it definitely is swollen a bit and softer than it should be. So... that's not going to work.
5/16" ID Tygon 2375 is selling on eBay for around US$10 for a 12" piece, but shipping by courier would be prohibitively expensive.
Any chance someone else also wants to do a reservoir delete and wouldn't mind sending me the leftover 6" piece by post? I can do PayPal to cover the price and shipping cost.
I don't think I corresponded with this exact builder -
http://www.bikebound.com/2016/03/30/suzuki-gs500-cafe-racer/
There was a round onto square one here and I did ask about it though.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: The Buddha on June 12, 2020, 05:30:31 AM
Quote from: SK Racing on May 17, 2020, 08:19:41 AM
I don't know whether you're referring to the look or the workmanship. The pictures may have been taken in my backyard, but the sub-frame certainly wasn't "backyard welded and hammered together". I enlisted the services of a professional craftsman to bend and MIG weld the sub-frame from a drawing I made.
If it's the look, then let's agree to disagree on that. :D
The cantilever seat look doesn't appeal to me at all. There are as many ways to customize a GS500 as there are owners wanting to give their GS500 their personal touch.
The look was not about workmanship or anything else - In fact some of the worst retarded cases of side license plate atrocities I have seen have the best welds and gorgeous paint jobs.
Hey Buddha
No offence taken, man. I have set my heart on building the sub-frame the way I drew it - so, not even a cantilevered seat would have been good enough. And I'm not really opposed to a cantilevered seat. In fact, I quite like it. But not for this build.
Quote from: The Buddha on June 12, 2020, 07:59:52 AM
I don't think I corresponded with this exact builder -
http://www.bikebound.com/2016/03/30/suzuki-gs500-cafe-racer/
There was a round onto square one here and I did ask about it though.
Cool.
Buddha.
I've seen quite a few round onto square conversions. Some are not so well executed, but a few are very nice.
Like this one for instance.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZMp5K0n.jpg)
That round X square is cognitive dissonance man. Its almost like they put in 1000's of hours of work and forgot to think for 2 seconds its a square. Like WTF.
Anyway this bike is cool, but the under seat looks like its a random box thrown in ... correct concept but missing the point.
Cool.
Buddha.
Totally. That's why I went for a LiFePO4 battery - so that it can fit under the seat. That box spoils the build.
Quote from: SK Racing on June 12, 2020, 09:13:52 AM
Totally. That's why I went for a LiFePO4 battery - so that it can fit under the seat. That box spoils the build.
Yea but sadly an empty "frame triangle" is just so much worse.
The welds in your bike speak attention to detail. So does your choice of square tubing, so does your paint job (hypothetical cos you're not painted yet) and chitte like empty frame triangle and side mount license plate just scream ... wee didn't think of chitte before we started bending and welding chitte.
IMHO - truly just my smallest little corner of the world opinion and I don't think I've built a bike in 5 yrs ...
Make a small mod and it should be seen ...
Pipe ... hey nice pipe ... is it T1 ? how did your slip on fit the flanged kind etc etc. trioval ? Off a GSXR - awesome.
Steel braided brake line ??? nice.
Seat to match the blue of the panthers ? Nice (Trust me I have one)
Whaaaaa That's a whole different FE ???? How do the gauges fit ???? I know GS 500's and yours has 2 disk ... how you swap the whole FE ???
Whaaaaa That's a different rear wheel ????
Whaaaaa Its raked 9 degrees (not the GS, a savage) And handles quicker than a stock savage ???? and has a 21" wheel ? and speedometer works and everything else works ????
Small mod - you have to see.
Big mod - has to look stock.
"Turns heads" may just mean it looks so fawking retarded people are wondering what crakkhead is next to them polluting their clean air.
All sorts of stupid chitte turns heads. A splat of chitte onto their side window also turns their heads rather impressively.
Small and cosmetic mods should catch their eye - that's your intent.
Big huge should not, in fact you should have owned a few bikes and atleast 1 GS and still miss it. That's my goal. Hence the nondescript paint jobs and the overall lack of attention grabbing anything ... needless to say - I cant paint, so that solves 1 problem. I cant weld either but I know some who do an awesome job.
Cool.
Buddha.
Member @cbrfxr67 sent a PM yesterday, offering to send me some Tygon tubing for the "reservoir delete". Unfortunately, only hours before that, I had ordered Tygon tubing from the UK via eBay. Damn, had I known...
What a great group of people we have here! :cheers:
The past day or so I've been working on a controller/regulator for a nickel plating setup.
(https://i.imgur.com/RiJH2tV.jpg)
The enclosure is made from aluminum sheet, bent into shape on a very simple bending brake, and some laminated wood for the sides and bottom.
(https://i.imgur.com/4JYCNgv.jpg)
Inside the enclosure is basically just a DC-DC Buck converter connected to a 10K pot for Volt/Amp adjustment. The display is a cheap unit that I ordered via AliExpress some time ago.
(https://i.imgur.com/5V0wQi7.jpg)
Received a 2011 R6 rear shock today. I can do with softer rear suspension, so it was a no-brainer.
Looks like it has all the necessary bits included.
(https://i.imgur.com/LZpDHdr.jpg)
You're gonna love it! The R6 shock was by far the best upgrade I did on my bike (matched with appropriate weight Sonic Springs for the front).
My little stripped down GS is still the best handling bike in my little collection.
Thanks for that, David. I'm going to use your write-up to guide me when installing the shock.
As for the front, I'm contemplating using spacers on top of the standard springs and maybe thicker oil. I'm spending too much on this build. If anyone has done both, I'd like some advice on spacers vs new springs, please.
Had the carbs and petcock treated to some vapor blasting.
Before and after pics.
(https://i.imgur.com/kUMAFpF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rPMxNLy.jpg)
I need some advice on a final coating on the exhaust headers. The headers have been vapor blasted down to bare metal, but now I need to add some coating - preferably black. I'm not keen on hi-temp spray paint. Got a quote on Cerakote and it's much too dear. The GSTwins Wiki mentions black stove polish. What should I do? I'm leaning towards stove polish, but it probably needs black barbecue paint first?
Before and after vapor blasting: (the silver is not paint, it's the bare metal)
(https://i.imgur.com/jzspDgZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/X0gtQJl.jpg)
The stove black thing is not permanent. It's just making something otherwise rusty look black.
Frankly a high-temp exhaust header paint may be your best bet. To keep it from rusting again you'll have to make sure the thing is fully coated and sealed. Pinholes or weak spots in the paint will allow moisture in and it'll rust.
Interested in how you cleaned the exhaust, that's pretty cool. But the truth is if I ever remove mine again, I am replacing with stainless headers. Done with this rust. I figure the header wrap makes me not see the rust and also accelerates the death of the stock headers so I'll be forced to buy a new stainless header sooner.
Quote from: mr72 on July 24, 2020, 07:27:40 AM
The stove black thing is not permanent. It's just making something otherwise rusty look black.
Frankly a high-temp exhaust header paint may be your best bet. To keep it from rusting again you'll have to make sure the thing is fully coated and sealed. Pinholes or weak spots in the paint will allow moisture in and it'll rust.
Thanks for the advice. I'll talk to my paint guy and hear if he can suggest a suitable paint. He repairs bikes for an insurance company and does exceptional work. He'll be painting my bike before final assembly.
QuoteInterested in how you cleaned the exhaust, that's pretty cool.
Yep, vapor blasting is the way to go. It's effective and quite cheap.
A brand new front brake rotor at less than half price is not to be scoffed at. I saw the ad on a local Facebook group yesterday and jumped at the opportunity.
Would I need new brake pads or can I use the old ones with the new rotor, provided there is still some meat left?
(https://i.imgur.com/nVT2Wmy.jpg)
You can use the old pads if they're not grooved with wear pattern but make sure they're also not worn unevenly etc etc.
The inner - static pad tends to wear a lot, so pay special attention to that.
Cool.
Buddha.
Thanks for the advice, Srinath. Makes sense. I think the front pads would be reusable, because there is almost no sign of grooves. But the rear rotor is badly worn with deep grooves, way past the minimum limit of the rotor. So, I'll have to get new rear pads AND a new rear rotor.
I made a drawing of a rear rotor in the slotted wave design in order to get it laser cut from 5mm stainless steel. Should be way cheaper than importing.
Btw, I wonder why the ones for sale online is only 4mm thick... The standard rear rotor thickness is 6mm.
(https://i.imgur.com/pZkZm9L.jpg)
Should look like this when done.
(https://i.imgur.com/m4pCv1g.jpg)
I haven't posted for a while, but that doesn't mean I've done nothing on the bike. Just about every day, I've done a bit, even if it's just something small.
The carbs are sorted out now. The engine ran badly after the carbs were vapor blasted. A good cleaning of all passages, jets and slides seemed to have done the trick. The new foot pegs are mounted and give me a bit more legroom. I'm rather tall at 6' 2" and my legs always felt a bit cramped. Also, the exhaust headers were sprayed black in Rust-Oleum High Heat.
Today, I registered for the 2020 Gentleman's Ride and entered my GS500. That means I have exactly 5 weeks to get it running and looking good enough for this grand event. :woohoo:
I encourage everyone to enter in their own city. And if you don't enter your own bike, maybe you'll consider sponsoring me? It is for a good cause. I will be riding in Pretoria, South Africa.
Here is my blog page: https://www.gentlemansride.com/fundraisers/ChristovanderMerwe375884
To register or just read what it's about: www.gentlemansride.com
(https://i.imgur.com/hLahoS5.png)
How much for one of those rotors you're going to make? ;)
Haha, lets not go there, CB. I had a disc laser cut from 4.5mm SS. It came out surprisingly good! But I wanted a machined surface and sent it to a machine shop for surface grinding and they messed it up. :hithead:
So I'm busy importing an OEM looking disc from AliExpress. It's real cheap over in China. Even with courier costs added, it's still less than half of what I would have paid locally for an OEM disc - if it were available. The local Suzuki agents don't sell any spares for my bike. So guess which brand of bike I'll never buy new! :icon_sad:
I have slowly, but constantly been working on my project bike. The wiring harness has been modified and cleaned up for mounting the electrics under the seat, plus brackets and cleats have been welded on for mounting the electric components. Will show pictures at a later stage.
Right now, the mold for the seat pan is being made. It will mainly consist of blue XPS foam that I had on hand - left over from my aero-modeling hobby.
(https://i.imgur.com/URrw4iU.jpg)
Hand cutting the foam is so easy when one has the right tools. I used a hot wire bow and related foam cutting equipment that looks a bit tatty due to age and wear and tear. There is also a DIY CNC foam cutter, but it won't be used for the mold.
(https://i.imgur.com/oyRSAd6.jpg)
Looking good as is the rear of the frame.
I like the seat making! Are you going for a level seat (not sloping downhill)?
Yes, I'll make the seat as level a I can practically get it, with a hump at the rear for looks. I was forever sliding downhill towards the tank on the standard seat. It may be fine with low clip-ons, but not with a high handlebar.
Love me some seat makin'!
Adjustable rubber bumper feet will screw into the underside of the seat pan and rest on the subframe.
(https://i.imgur.com/vH4s8HR.jpg)
I have to make stand-offs for the two front bumpers since the front of the seat pan sits higher than the rear to clear the starter solenoid which is quite a bit taller than the other electric components - even the LiFePO4 battery.
Started laying up some fiberglass for a mold for the stand-offs onto which the rubber bumpers will mount. It's been years since I last worked with composites. The plug for the mold was turned from Delrin.
(https://i.imgur.com/2T3mkgX.jpg)
The plug and the first mold that was released. This is time consuming work but necessary.
(https://i.imgur.com/jrLKzdA.jpg)
Looking good, can't wait to see more!
Thanks Sporty. When I saw all the bubbles in the second (and first) mold, I decided to make new molds and cure them under vacuum. But I have to fix the vacuum pump first. The flexible coupling disintegrated while I was testing the pump today. A new coupling will be here tomorrow.
Quote from: SK Racing on October 26, 2020, 12:02:16 PM
Thanks Sporty. When I saw all the bubbles in the second (and first) mold, I decided to make new molds and cure them under vacuum. But I have to fix the vacuum pump first. The flexible coupling disintegrated while I was testing the pump today. A new coupling will be here tomorrow.
It looked great and no bubbles were visible in the photo. I like creative hand work... small or large. Anyone can order from a catalog, but making things is more satisfying to me.
Quote from: Sporty on October 26, 2020, 02:03:18 PM
I like creative hand work... small or large. Anyone can order from a catalog, but making things is more satisfying to me.
I'm 100% with you on that. I like making things that you can't buy. Bespoke stuff; One-off designs. Like my GS500 street tracker for instance. There won't be another one like it once I'm done. I think we all crave individuality, but few can actually make it themselves. How lucky we are.
You have probably seen the online bike magazine bikeexif.com (http://bikeexif.com). Each week a few custom-built bikes are presented. Some of them are truly masterfully built.
The making of the foam plug (male mold) for the seat pan is taking up so much time, it's frustrating me big time.
Currently adding blue foam around the seat release and shaping it. I hate this kind of work, because if I make a mistake I'm going to want to start over. So I procrastinate a lot. In the mean time, I'm also getting all the supplies together to pull a light vacuum on the seat pan while the resin is curing. That means having to seal around the steel pipes of the subframe.
At least the vacuum pump is sorted out now. The vacuum can be varied from light to quite strong via an Arduino based controller that I built about a decade ago. This project will need only very light vacuum otherwise it'll crush the foam.
(https://i.imgur.com/kiXeP8k.jpg)
That's going to be so nice. Will it be a reusable mold?
Quote from: Sporty on November 05, 2020, 10:22:38 AM
That's going to be so nice. Will it be a reusable mold?
Afraid not. The foam will probably break when I try to release the seat pan from it. But I don't mind. The seat pan will only fit my bike anyway.
The mold for the FG seat pan is taking much too long, but it is nearing completion now. I'm busy with the final touches and refinements. I'm using XPS (expanded) foam, painted with Dulux Supergrip acrylic undercoat as it blends well with light-weight spackle filler, which sands easily. I've already lost count on the number of coats that went on there, with filling and sanding in between. Fortunately, I'm enjoying this kind of creative work, since I don't design and build model airplanes anymore and this project satisfies my creative urge.
(https://i.imgur.com/hMbl9F6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TZR9EAf.jpg)
Some interesting elements in the mix, looking forward to seeing them together :cheers:
Quote from: SK Racing on December 17, 2020, 07:18:16 AM
The mold for the FG seat pan is taking much too long, but it is nearing completion now. I'm busy with the final touches and refinements. I'm using XPS (expanded) foam, painted with Dulux Supergrip acrylic undercoat as it blends well with light-weight spackle filler, which sands easily. I've already lost count on the number of coats that went on there, with filling and sanding in between. Fortunately, I'm enjoying this kind of creative work, since I don't design and build model airplanes anymore and this project satisfies my creative urge.
(https://i.imgur.com/hMbl9F6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TZR9EAf.jpg)
Getting better all the time!
The mold is done and ready. Just waiting for the right conditions to lay up carbon and fibreglass.
First post this year! But I've been working on the bike, bit by bit, almost every day. The fiberglass work turned into a nightmare and I vowed to never do it again. EVER!
Finally, the seat is done and I rode the bike for the first time in over 14 months. :woohoo:
(https://i.imgur.com/TXlica5.jpg)
Next, the tank and wheels will get painted, and the new knobby tires put on - hopefully in time for the DGR (Gentleman's Ride).
The underside of the seat pan looks good in carbon fibre.
(https://i.imgur.com/KZVzy5v.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9yxbOYh.jpg)
After I've shaped the foam, the seat was upholstered by Dion Korkie of Leatherman D, a renowned bike seat upholsterer in South Africa, who happens to be located in my city.
(https://i.imgur.com/GFwOXyj.jpg)
A lot of planning and work went into getting the electrics to fit under the seat with nothing sticking out underneath - an early design requirement and the main reason I went the Lithium Iron Phosphate battery route.
(https://i.imgur.com/1bSdrev.jpg)
More pictures to follow once the tank is painted...
EDIT: Forgot to mention, the R/R has been relocated to the front - under the headlight.
man that is clean. Love it!
Here's a pic to show what has been done lately:
Wheel rims painted with 2K and new tires fitted. The rims look really good and shiny. Other new parts fitted: Brake rotors and pads, braided steel front brake line, handlebar switches, handlebar levers, bar end indicators, front and rear sprockets.
The rear "brake reservoir delete" looks great and works fine.
(https://i.imgur.com/feeGx6J.jpg)
Just waiting for the tank to be sprayed now. The color has finally been decided and the paint has been bought. It is "Porsche arrow blue".
(https://i.imgur.com/vKl71eo.jpg)
(https://media1.tenor.com/images/5d0366110df48e7f90e01d469772c361/tenor.gif?itemid=13843337)
going to be 'mazinnnn!
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on May 06, 2021, 06:50:06 AM
going to be 'mazinnnn!
Thanks cbr. I really hope so.
There are so many little details to take care of in a project like this. For instance, while refurbishing the fuel cap, I discovered why the little flap covering the key hole wouldn't stay down anymore. The spring had broken. So I decided to make a new spring - a craft I learned a few months ago when I disassembled my trusty old vernier caliper to clean and lubricate it. Of course I didn't know to look out for a little spring inside and lost it. Found a YT video on making springs from piano wire and voilà! ... a new spring!
So, I made a new spring for the fuel cap flap and after a few tries, realized that it has to be properly tempered. Then I found a blog on how to temper springs and this is the result. The spring started out all shiny when I made it, but now it has a blueish color from the tempering process. When you flick it now, it even sounds different than before tempering.
(https://i.imgur.com/qGVXfqM.jpg)
That's some winning right there! Thanks for the tip! I try to remember all these little tips! Good stuff!
Here is a good guide for making and tempering springs. You never know when you might need a custom spring. :icon_lol:
https://www.madmodder.net/index.php?topic=2734.0 (https://www.madmodder.net/index.php?topic=2734.0)
Sneak peek. :D
I'll post more pics later, but just to show the color of the tank. I'm very happy with the way it turned out.
(https://i.imgur.com/KJ9atyB.jpg)
(https://www.motohouston.com/forums/images/smilies/headbang.gif)
bad a@@@@@
As promised, more pics.
(https://i.imgur.com/vKwIXfS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Jfs6v7Q.jpg)
That thing is sweet! Great job my friend! :cheers:
Thanks bud. :thumb:
I'm going to quote a guy who has an Instructable on restoring a Cafe Racer gas tank:
We call this restoration process fun, because we don't understand the definition of the word fun!
And I'm sure anyone who has undertaken a custom motorcycle project will be able to identify with that.
Servus,
Well done :bowdown: :thumb: :cheers:
Thanks Jim. I'm not done with it yet. The frame still needs to be resprayed and the engine cleaned up, etc. etc. Over the last two months the bike was assembled in a hurry for the Gentlemans Ride this coming Sunday.
But I know a custom job is never complete. :tongue2: I'll probably have a something to keep me busy on weekends for years to come. Well, that's my excuse to tinker with the bike and I'm sticking to it. :icon_mrgreen:
Yesterday I've installed the R6 shock at last. I had to grind away about 2mm of the front of the swingarm for clearance. The R6 shock is exactly the same length as the stock GS shock.
And what a difference after dialing down the compression. The ride is so much smoother now, but it has to be set up for that. I'm glad I listened to Endopotential's advice. :thumb:
Thanks also to Chris900F for his advice. As per his suggestion, preload is set to position 2 and it seems right for my weight (83kg).
(https://i.imgur.com/AsPQ8dw.jpg)
Here is my GS at the Gentleman's Ride in my city, Pretoria, today.
(https://i.imgur.com/hdhSkGT.jpg)
Short video of me going to the DGR. https://i.imgur.com/kGsyQNF.mp4 (https://i.imgur.com/kGsyQNF.mp4)
Quote from: SK Racing on May 23, 2021, 03:24:36 PM
Here is my GS at the Gentleman's Ride in my city, Pretoria, today.
<snip>
Gentleman ??? When did you become one of those ??? Aaaahhh I get it, You've been hanging out with mr72 and bluesmudge and cbrfxr67 and showbizwolf. Cut it out now. You want to aim for Hooligan at best.
Cool.
Buddha.
(https://www.motohouston.com/forums/images/smilies/laughing6.gif)(https://www.motohouston.com/forums/images/smilies/laughing6.gif)(https://www.motohouston.com/forums/images/smilies/laughing6.gif)(https://www.motohouston.com/forums/images/smilies/laughing6.gif)
Don't forget about Brucedavidculver, Endopotential, IdaSuzi, Sledge, Herennow, MaxD, Watcher, Big Rich, the_63, qcbaker, Suzuki Stevo, Philward, johnny ro, Yamahonkawazuki, Moto & Sporty. :thumb:
LOL!! :cheers:
Gentleman (and Gentlewoman)...so pretty much anyone other than The Buddha
Quote from: Bluesmudge on May 25, 2021, 03:53:07 PM
Gentleman (and Gentlewoman)...so pretty much anyone other than The Buddha
He doesn't like my new sub-frame, so does he qualify as a gentleman? :D
Quote from: SK Racing on May 26, 2021, 05:09:04 AM
Quote from: Bluesmudge on May 25, 2021, 03:53:07 PM
Gentleman (and Gentlewoman)...so pretty much anyone other than The Buddha
He doesn't like my new sub-frame, so does he qualify as a gentleman? :D
Noooo I didn't say that ... I said of all the crappy sub frames with the retarded "empty frame triangle" yours was the least crappy.
I somehow think a "no frame triangle" works, empty no. Or rather more like cobbled in someone's backyard.
Yes hooligans lead by Buddha. May be the only one. AKA I'm just wandering lost.
Cool.
Buddha.
Oh, my sub-frame is the least crappy of all the crappy sub-frames? :icon_eek: I'll take that as a compliment. LOL. :thumb:
That "empty frame triangle" idea IMHO is as dumb as those stretched and slammed busas.
However it makes it look even worse when you leave the original air box wiring and TCI box etc like the scrambler for sale in LA. However if he ever rode in any dust/dirt/wet conditions, its the best way to keep that crap from shot straight into your filters.
I like the "no frame triangle", which means the seat is cantilevered out all the way with a solid brace, but doesn't fix the problem of air filter being splattered.
Oddly I'm saying I like airboxes. If you were modding it with all weather use in mind, you need that rear fender or the air box or both.
If the airbox is left and seat frame modded like the bike in LA and no fender cos the tire is huge and you dont fit a hugger then it looks better with side covers made preferably out of plastic and fitted on like the stock with hidden screw heads.
TBH I mod the frame to take the side cover off another bike that I think has a good profile to fit and look right. Its easier to shape tube steel than plastic.
Cool.
Buddha.
As some of you may have noticed, I've been endorsing the use of newer battery chemistries in motorcycles. To be more specific: LiFePO4 batteries. I don't advocate using any other type, like LiPo, Li-ion, or whatever. But LiFePO4, or LiFe batteries in short, tick all the boxes for small size, long life, zero maintenance, etc. There are some caveats, however. They don't like very cold temperatures, and balancing the cells is usually a necessity, whether that be with a BMS, active balancer or a charging balancer. I also wholeheartedly agree that one shouldn't fix something if it aint broke. So, if your bike's battery is working fine, don't change it out just for the sake of change.
In my case, with my project GS500 where I chopped off the sub-frame and built a new tubular "café racer" type sub-frame, space was scarce and the bulky lead-acid battery had to go. Fitting a much smaller LiFePO4 battery was the answer as it fits right inside the custom seat, under the seat pan. Obviously, I first made sure that the new battery was working OK by testing it for three months before putting saw to metal. It worked flawlessly, but I did realize that with such a small capacity battery (3.8Ah vs 10Ah stock), I would have to be more careful to not abuse it. That is typical of custom projects, I guess. There are often compromises.
I've shown this before, but here it is again... The size comparison of the stock and the new LiFe battery I'm using.
(https://i.imgur.com/JolA48O.jpg)
FEEDBACK
OK, here is my feedback on the use of a LiFePO4 battery in a GS500. (Please keep in mind that it is a DIY battery that I built from individual, soldered together cells)
When the cells were new, the one cell charged to a higher voltage. Not by much, about 0.7V, but I was concerned. A BMS with active balancing cured that phenomenon. The LiFe battery + BMS worked well for a number of months. But an engine oil change that coincided with winter temperatures introduced a problem. It turns out the 100A BMS is too sensitive and cuts out when trying to start on cold mornings due to the engine being heavier to turn from the cold new oil (10W40). The solution was to remove the BMS and now all is well. It starts easily without a hint of strain on the battery.
Is it safe to use this battery without a BMS? I would normally advise against it, but after carefully observing the cell voltages, I'm confident that the cells are now staying balanced, even without the BMS. So why is the same battery behaving different now? My guess is after working with a BMS connected for a few months, it seems that the cells got conditioned or maybe just properly balanced. I have a neat little device that draws a bar graph of the 4 individual cell voltages in real time. So I can check the condition of the cells while starting and also when the engine is running and therefore charging the battery. All 4 cells now hold the same voltage under heavy discharging (starting) and charging conditions – and without a BMS of any kind! The BMS that I've been using is rated for 100A and 150A burst, which seems too low for a 500cc engine when it's very cold. The 3800mAh (3.8Ah) LiFePO4 battery o.t.o.h. seems completely happy to deliver the amps - or cranking amps as they call it in the battery industry. I may add an active balancer later, just for peace of mind, but the battery seems to be happy on its own now.
I know most people are usually reluctant to try new stuff, but if you have been thinking about getting a LiFePO4 battery, hopefully this information will be helpful. I can't guarantee that you won't have problems, but if you size the battery right, I think your chances of success are very good. I know that commercial LiFe batteries made for starting vehicles have a BMS built-in. Therefore all you have to get right is the correct size for your vehicle. For normal usage in a GS500, I would suggest about 5Ah or slightly bigger as a sensible size. Unfortunately, some manufacturers only specify the cold cranking amps (CCA) and not the capacity. I can't help you there. Try to verify the cell capacity before you buy. CCA can be very misleading. Cell capacity is a more accurate indication of the ability to start an engine, if you have a benchmark to go by. Now you do. :cheers:
Last thoughts
I mentioned earlier that there are some caveats, although this one is not specific to LiFe batteries:
If you elect to use a battery of lower capacity than stock (10Ah), then the engine and carbs had better be in good nick. It should start easily. Smaller capacity batteries don't have the grunt to keep on cranking the motor while you try to start it. Do all starting troubleshooting with a stock battery first.
I'm thinking of getting one of these: Active Equalizing Balancer for 4S LiFePO4. Available on eBay and Aliexpress.
(https://i.imgur.com/miInUFU.jpg)
Really interesting and thanks for sharing! I wish I knew more about electronics. The size of the battery seems good reason for me to learn!
You're very welcome CB. I'd be happy to answer any questions.
That last sentence - if you're trying to start the thing with a weak battery the engine and carbs should be in good nick, That's true. I used to tune the carbs to start on a near dead battery.
Cool.
Buddha.
The latest gadget added to my bike is an automatic headlight switch. It will help with starting on cold winter mornings, because the headlight now stays off until the engine is running.
For those who didn't follow the development of the headlight switch, it was discussed in this thread: gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=73729 (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=73729)
(https://i.imgur.com/XuJMSQo.jpg)
Update after riding the bike for seven months:
The LiFePO4 battery has been working flawlessly. I chucked the BMS after experiencing starting problems in very cold weather and pinpointed the problem to be the BMS, rather than the battery. So I'm now using the LiFePO4 battery straight - no BMS, but I did verify that all four cells stay balanced. I couldn't be happier with this tiny battery. It's always ready to start the engine, even after weeks of non-riding.
I did notice a small problem with what I think is weak fuel flow. Running WOT up a long hill results in slight loss of power after a while. So I have to look at the fuel filter, petcocks and fuel lines I suppose. During normal town riding it is not noticeable. Any ideas?
I couldn't help snapping this pic...
(https://i.imgur.com/dieVnnX.jpg)
sweeeet
Jumped over here from the gs400 notcafe racer thread. Speaking of batteries, I stuck a lithium pak in my bike a few months ago and seems like it's working a ok. It was from a jump box, specifically a schumacher dsr128. :dunno_black: It's about the size of a giant snickers bar. Not really making a point here, only wondering what you think about that as you are well informed in batteries!
Sounds good. I checked and the Schumacher DSR128 uses two Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries, same chemistry as I'm using. It should last many years. So, well done! :thumb:
Does the pack give any indication of the capacity? Mine is 3.8Ah, but I won't recommend going smaller.
I also want to mention that even after the bike has been standing a month with no charging in between, it starts with the first crank. These batteries don't self discharge like lead acid do.
I believe it is 3.8. It had a spec on it. Thanks for the reply; figured you would know more than I do about it! For me, I wonder why this hasn't caught on more? I made another pak and stuck it in my buddies Vulcan and it's doing great.
On my wee bike I hacked a Milwaukee 12v charger and started using M12 batteries. I barely finished a zs190 swap and it cranks it over easily. I can't see going back to a traditional big battery unless I had to,.... :dunno_black:
You guys are running a 3.8 amp battery in place of the stock 10 ? Typically what counts though is the CCA discharge capacity, which can be 10-15X the rated amps. So a 10 amp battery would produce 100-150 CCA.
Do these batteries have a higher CCA than their 3.8 Ah would indicate (38 to ~55).
Also the rate is related to how much it will accept at near full charge. So a 10 ah battery will discharge 100-150 CCA and accept ~10 amps as it gets close to full charge. If the 3.8 only accepts 3.8 ah - you're likely sending a lot of wastage to the R/R likely shortening its life.
Ofcourse that is assuming the alternator is running at anywhere close to 100%, which likely is a stretch.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: The Buddha on November 25, 2022, 08:13:07 AM
You guys are running a 3.8 amp battery in place of the stock 10 ? Typically what counts though is the CCA discharge capacity, which can be 10-15X the rated amps. So a 10 amp battery would produce 100-150 CCA.
Do these batteries have a higher CCA than their 3.8 Ah would indicate (38 to ~55).
That's for LA (lead acid) batteries. Lithium is very different. These 3.8 Lithium packs deliver enough amps to easily crank the 500cc engine - and fast!
Quote
Also the rate is related to how much it will accept at near full charge. So a 10 ah battery will discharge 100-150 CCA and accept ~10 amps as it gets close to full charge. If the 3.8 only accepts 3.8 ah - you're likely sending a lot of wastage to the R/R likely shortening its life.
Ofcourse that is assuming the alternator is running at anywhere close to 100%, which likely is a stretch.
It's a common misconception that amps get "pushed". In reality, as the battery nears full charge, the charging amps diminish until it's basically zero. The losses in the R/R is related to the square of the amps, which of course is just about nil. So, the R/R is no worse off than with the stock battery and I'd imagine it's actually happier with a Lithium battery.
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on November 23, 2022, 10:41:24 AM
For me, I wonder why this hasn't caught on more?
Probably because people don't understand Lithium batteries and are scared of it. :whisper:
People are generally hesitant to try new things, even if they are aware of the benefits. Lithium has a 10+ year life expectancy. That means I'll probably never need a new battery for my bike again.
Oh I am reading about CCA's and the AH rating. CCA's are bursts which I knew.
The AH is how many amps it can produce over an hour.
I thought the AH rating was the battery's charge rate close to full charge. Because I also knew when fully discharged it will take all the amps you can dump into it - its like an empty bucket. Or has near 0 internal resistance. Ofcourse near full charge it has high internal resistance and probably will rise rapidly to infinity at full charge.
Cool.
Buddha.
Have any designs to share of the subframe? Wondering if you followed the shape of the tank coming off the frame, or brought it back in a straight line.
Wow! Really cool build and amazing execution! Your bike looks amazing :)
Hey Guys and Gals
I haven't been on this forum for a long time, so I thought I'll post something again.
I'm still riding my project bike and lately I have been riding with my daughter. Sharon is 35 and she bought a Royal Enfield Classic 500 in January 2023.
(https://i.imgur.com/MG92cLv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ARFzhXD.jpg)