(https://iili.io/2xmOmv.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2xmOmv)
I might as well blog this. It's becoming a complete rehash on the cheap.
I paid too much at $500. USD and should of left it were it was. I had missed out on two other low priced GS500E's and I'm sure there are more.
This is how it looked when I brought it home.
(https://iili.io/d8hiaS.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host)
The obvious things kind of distracted from the rest of the issues. I figured chain and sprockets, tires, and a few used parts from eBay and weekend of work... it turns out as I get into it, almost every thing that was repaired before, was done badly with plenty resultant issues.
This is getting the bike running. I was a little stumped on why I couldn't get gas to the carbs. Then I discovered the "hidden petcock" on the tank was turned off. After that it ran, but not that well. A compression test showed 135 -140 PSI for both cylinders.
(https://iili.io/dSnoU7.md.png) (https://freeimage.host/)
Pulled the carbs and the front forks. The seals were leaking so badly, it had an oil cooled front brake. There were only pinch bolts in the top triple tree.... no bolts in the lower!
By this photo I rounded up two bolts. They are 10mm x 1.25, 40mm long.
(https://iili.io/dSCbPp.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/)
The bore where the seal rides was all messed up as seen below.
I polished as smooth as possible, it might leak though
(https://iili.io/dSCsAg.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/)
Measuring the fluid level with a vernier caliper (the tool I had)
(https://iili.io/dSCpKN.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/)
Back on the bike.
(https://iili.io/dSn9St.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/)
The front wheel was painted black over white (and peeling) I stripped off most of the black with a pressure washer. Then Sanded and painted with silver wheel paint and clear coat, installed new bearings, a new tire. Cleaned up the old rotor.
(https://iili.io/dSCQDJ.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/)
(https://iili.io/dSCLNa.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/)
Look close and you can see the wire tie method was used to mount the tire... I didn't want to chip the new paint.
(https://iili.io/dSnfV4.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/)
The Michelin Pilot Street balanced with 14 grams (1/2 Oz) of weight... not bad.
(https://iili.io/dSnCf2.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/)
Good to see your progress. Seems like you know what you're doing. :thumb:
It would have been nice to be able to click on the pictures to zoom, but instead it goes to the image host's website.
I use the "BBCode" for pasting pictures added from my image host, which happens to be imgur, but it should be available at https://freeimage.host as well. And then I add "width=400" after the "[img]" tag.
Quote from: SK Racing on August 24, 2020, 04:47:23 AM
Good to see your progress. Seems like you know what you're doing. :thumb:
It would have been nice to be able to click on the pictures to zoom, but instead it goes to the image host's website.
I use the "BBCode" for pasting pictures added from my image host, which happens to be imgur, but it should be available at https://freeimage.host as well. And then I add "width=400" after the "[img]" tag.
The photos are supposed to link, but I see a bit of code is missing.
As far as knowing what I'm doing.... on some days.
Onto the rear wheel
(https://iili.io/d8h46l.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/d8h46l)
(https://iili.io/dSXPNn.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dSXPNn)
(https://iili.io/dSXits.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dSXits)
"it had an oil cooled front brake" :icon_lol:
This is a great thread! Actually these are my favorites,... doing good work! What are those washer thingys on the peg wall?
Can't wait to see more! :woohoo:
How difficult is it to separate the part that holds the sprocket from the wheel? Can it just be pulled off?
(https://i.imgur.com/6VhhoC2.jpg)
Quote from: SK Racing on August 24, 2020, 09:19:53 AM
How difficult is it to separate the part that holds the sprocket from the wheel? Can it just be pulled off?
The sprocket hub is held onto the rear wheel only by friction between the sprocket hub and the cush drive rubbers. You just pull it off. If its a little hard to pull off, that's a good sign. If it falls off easily when you pull on the rear sprocket, your rubber cush thingies are probably worn out.
If you ever replace your rear wheel bearings, there is a bearing in the rear sprocket carrier to replace in addition to the bearing in the actual wheel.
I guess it's a good sign that I couldn't get it separated. I pulled a bit, but didn't realize it was only held in by friction.
Thanks for the info and for the heads up on the bearings.
Carbs are rebuilt/reassembled now waiting to be installed and tuned.
I went with the suggested jetting from this forum for a K&N lunchbox and a slip-on muffler.
40 Pilot Jet, 140 Main Jet, 1 washer under each Jet Needle clip. If it's too rich, I'll change it.
The carbs were another hack job, with mismatched, mangled and modified parts.
Mismatched and bent needles
(https://iili.io/dSn3DG.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/)
Modified, trashed slide..
(https://iili.io/dSn2Ns.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/)
(It was assembled with a good used slide from eBay)
Clean and ready to assemble.
(https://iili.io/dSnnlS.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/)
(https://iili.io/dU1VdF.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/)
One of the covers was broken at the screw hole and other side damaged. I re-purposed a bit of tin bracket found in my junk drawers. Cut and bent to help stabilize it.
(https://iili.io/dU3mrX.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dU3mrX)
(https://iili.io/dU3DBI.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dU3DBI)
(https://iili.io/dU3b1t.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dU3b1t)
Ready to go
(https://iili.io/dU3y2n.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dU3y2n)
(https://iili.io/dUF97s.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dUF97s)
I read on this forum that the inlet boot O-rings were a problem. I pulled to check and sure enough they are! The local hardware store has metric O-rings. I think they're getting a little suspicious of my frequent trips to rummage through all the little hardware drawers and then just buy a few dollars of small items.
(https://iili.io/d8hrG4.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/)
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on August 24, 2020, 08:51:10 AM
What are those washer thingys on the peg wall?
Those are valve seat grinding stones, for re-machining valve seats in cylinder heads (valve jobs). They go with the driver motor below them and other tooling.
Nice! I bet your shop has all kinds of goodies!
That bent metal reinforcement was a cracking idea! :thumb:
can't wait to see how it runs!
Yesterday's output... I'm trying to do some work everyday.. at least a couple hours.
Everything cleaned up nice with a soak and power wash.
I tried a set of "Pivot Works" bearings. The new bearings are all double sealed and lubricated. The old bearings were not. The drive hub bearing was open, and the same grease that lubricated the bearing also lubricated the seal. If I put the seal in dry, it would burn up quickly, so I put some bearing grease in the cavity between the seal and the bearing. The other option would have been to just leave the seal out, as it's not really needed with a sealed bearing, but then that space would be a big "dirt catcher" Hmmm???
(https://iili.io/dgSZhl.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dgSZhl)
(https://iili.io/dgSbBS.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dgSbBS)
(https://iili.io/dgStQ2.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dgStQ2)
(https://iili.io/dgU92e.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dgU92e)
(https://iili.io/dgUdpj.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dgUdpj)
(https://iili.io/dgSQI4.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dgSQI4)
(https://iili.io/dgUHYu.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dgUHYu)
(https://iili.io/dgUJkb.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dgUJkb)
The Dupli-Color wheel paint lays down nicely. About an hour of hand sanding for prep. The wheel washed with dish soap and water before and after sanding. Then three coats (two light, one medium wet) of silver color, followed by three coats of gloss clear.
(https://iili.io/dgU3Tx.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dgU3Tx)
(https://iili.io/dgUFhQ.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dgUFhQ)
(https://www.motohouston.com/forums/images/smilies/headbang.gif)
This thread is so satisfying to watch. Keep going, please.
+1 !!!
Very satisfying :cheers:
I like that way of thinking too, about getting some work done each day. I've been using that mindset this past week as well.
Great work so far IMO!
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on August 26, 2020, 09:18:06 AM
+1 !!!
Very satisfying :cheers:
I like that way of thinking too, about getting some work done each day. I've been using that mindset this past week as well.
Great work so far IMO!
Thanks all!
I went to re-install the carbs and still had to reseal the other intake boot. What a nasty mess!
I stuffed a piece of rag in the port before cleaning to keep all that crud out.
(https://iili.io/d48is2.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/d48is2)
(https://iili.io/d48PWl.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/d48PWl)
(https://iili.io/d486x4.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/d486x4)
(https://iili.io/d48LfS.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/d48LfS)
You'd think the carb install would be hassle free, but the clamp screws philips were stripped out. I had some new stainless 4mm screws, but then found the clamp didn't really tighten very well and could still rotate them.
I wasted some time looking for other clamps and/or things to shim them, eventually settling on lining the clamps with a couple layers of aluminum foil tape (used for ductwork)
(https://iili.io/d48Zg9.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/d48Zg9)
(https://iili.io/d48mOb.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/d48mOb)
I need to find more jobs on this bike like I need a hole in the head. However, rusty battery boxes and frames are an issue for me. Every time I work on the bike, my eyes are drawn to it like a moth to a flame. I figured now was the time, so out with the battery box. Then a quick sanding of the rusty fame areas and an application of rust conversion treatment. Tomorrow those areas will get painted with the silver wheel paint. I'll sand blast and paint the box.... and keep moving.
(https://iili.io/d48DJe.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/d48DJe)
(https://iili.io/d48b5u.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/d48b5u)
Oh and I noticed this beauty... largish nuts (about 19mm wrench size) used as coil mount spacers... and pressing on the terminals.
(https://iili.io/d48Q07.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/d48Q07)
(https://iili.io/d6Mzdl.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/d6Mzdl)
(https://iili.io/d6Mog4.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/d6Mog4)
(https://iili.io/d6Mn1f.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/d6Mn1f)
I've been working on this front fender. The fender was originally red, had a bad black rattlecan paint job and a crack. The crack would open when Fender was flexed. I repaired the crack with plastic weld epoxy and fiberglass tape (drywall tape) I've had good success with that on other bikes plastic parts.
I put a puddle of epoxy over the crack, flexed the fender and let it run through the crack. Then added the tape and a little more epoxy.
(https://iili.io/d8hPF2.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/)
(https://iili.io/d6XlrG.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/d6XlrG)
Kind of disappointed in the rattlecan finish. Usally I can get a better job without wet sanding and buffing.
The color didn't lay down well. I wet sanded that and applied clear and the clear left a lot of orange peel.
I have spray guns and can get by with them, but didn't feel like buying the paint, clear and the putting in the effort for one little fender. Maybe Ill wet sand and buff the clear...IDK.
(https://iili.io/d6X12f.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/d6X12f)
I've been working on the gas tank for a bit. It had a modest amount of rust. First I drained it and then put in a couple pieces of light weight chain and some mineral spirits. Shook that up every time I walked by it for a few days. Drain it and then pressure washed it. It looked pretty good where the pressure washer could get too, but this is tough tank to clean.
(https://iili.io/dPhb2a.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dPhb2a)
I fished some objects out, vacuumed, etc... but there was always stuff moving around when I shook the tank. Finally I see this "thing" come into view. I pull it out with mechanical fingers... but WTH is it??? Its like a rolled up cigar full of little black beads and rust!
(https://iili.io/dPhypR.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dPhypR)
(https://iili.io/dPhmYJ.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dPhmYJ)
Frame touched up (where it was rusted by battery acid)
(https://iili.io/dPjHIp.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dPjHIp)
Broke the chain and removed it. Pulled off the sprocket cover to find a big mess there. Curious was two orings. One fell on the ground and the other setting in the gook. I looked up the parts and there is no oring. Then I figure it's o-rings from the chain that look whole, but are not.
(https://iili.io/dPjJhN.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dPjJhN)
(https://iili.io/dPjdQI.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dPjdQI)
That thing in the tank is strange!! I've never seen something like that before... good thing you got it out!
Ugh the stuff behind the sprocket cover... mine was like that too when I got it. I bet there are many GS500s out there like that :icon_sad:
I'm totally with you on frame rust... I fixed up a few spots too... and the battery box as well! I like paying attention to all the details. There are very similar pics in my project thread.
Love your updates!
Another trip to the 50 foot wall of hardware. The best display around here with a good selection of metric stainless and everything else.
(https://iili.io/dPsYsn.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dPsYsn)
I've spent a lot of time in places like that! I love stainless stuff.
I didn't get as much done as expected, but did make progress.
Its NOT helping that a SKUNK moved into the building where the motorcycles are. It's an old horse shed with one stall closed in and a plywood floor. The rest is open on one side. The skunk was smelling very close for a couple days now. Last night I left the light on. Tonight I left light on and the radio going on the "House of Hair" show. I hope the skunk doesn't like 80's metal and relocates to a quieter spot.
Rear tire mounted, new Arashi rotor installed and wheel balanced. The rear wheel took a little more weight at 35 grams (1.25 Oz) it was dead still at any position, so pretty good. Both the front and rear wheel assy's run nice and straight.
(https://iili.io/diziN4.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/diziN4)
(https://iili.io/dizPRf.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dizPRf)
Battery box re-installed. I need to figure out a battery hold down.
(https://iili.io/dizsDl.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dizsDl)
Definitely spent too much time on the sprocket area. It was as nasty as any piece of heavy equipment that I've worked on, just on a smaller scale. After cleaning, I removed the clutch release mechanism. Cleaned that all up, packed it with fresh grease and reassembled it.
(https://iili.io/dizQx2.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dizQx2)
(https://iili.io/dizZVS.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dizZVS)
(https://iili.io/dizti7.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dizti7)
New 15 tooth front sprocket. I read on the GS Twin Wiki that a 15 is popular. The new rider should have an easier time starting off with it.
(https://iili.io/dizbf9.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dizbf9)
Battery filled with acid and installed. Still need a hold down.
(https://iili.io/ds9SgS.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/ds9SgS)
New X-ring "superbike series" chain.. I hope it can hold the mighty GS500E
(https://iili.io/ds9gd7.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/ds9gd7)
Rear wheel and Chain installed.
(https://iili.io/ds9812.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/ds9812)
One note on the Arashi wave rotor. It's 2mm thinner than the stock rotor. If you can see in the photo, it causes the outboard piston extend that much farther.
(https://iili.io/ds9r79.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/ds9r79)
I bet that nasty bit of surprise was a dessicant pak somebody dropped in there. Prob when they drained and stored it?
Love seeing your updates! Rock on!
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on August 31, 2020, 10:22:21 AM
I bet that nasty bit of surprise was a dessicant pak somebody dropped in there. Prob when they drained and stored it?
Ding, ding ding! I think we have a winner! :woohoo: I think that's just what it is, a desiccant pack.
I showed that to a few people and everyone was stumped. Could've been for storage or after cleaning. Maybe someone thought it a good way to get water out of gas?
Another part of this project is the instrument cluster. I don't have a "before photo" it was functional except for the neutral light (loose bulb) but ugly and damaged. A good used replacement is pricey on a needy project. The frame was broken and missing a piece of the hoop at the trip odometer reset.
I welded in a small piece of metal there. The hoop for the tach was badly bent. Here it is straighted as best I could. It was stretched and hammered over a big tapered pipe fitting to regain the shape. Far from perfect, but way better than it was.
Painted with dupli-color silver wheel paint. I only had black labels (not clear). The checking in the paint is because I didn't wait long enough for the clear coat.
The clear coat did make the indicators look nice...
(https://iili.io/dL9Fv1.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dL9Fv1)
(https://iili.io/dspNRe.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dspNRe)
(https://iili.io/dspwJ9.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dspwJ9)
The bucket had a lot of cracks to epoxy... it should be good enough.
(https://iili.io/dsphU7.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dsphU7)
(https://iili.io/dL93YP.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dL93YP)
The gauges are in decent shape, but the rubber cushions are all stretched out. I'm waiting on a set of the rubber cushions from Suzuki so the whole deal can be reassembled and installed
(https://iili.io/dspvxj.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dspvxj)
(https://iili.io/dsp8Wx.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dsp8Wx)
Worked on the gas tank some more and retrieved the last of the silica beads from the package that was in there.
Next I treated the tank with a phosphoric acid based rust remover / rust converter.
It's much better than it was.
(https://iili.io/dtsEX4.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/)
man this is good stuff,... Makes me want to start another thread. Except I'm doing the Night Train. Nobody cares about Harleys :icon_razz: :hithead:
Love seeing your daily updates! First thing I look at when I log in at work! Tank looking good! I think this is going to be a cleaaaan bike when you're done!
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on September 02, 2020, 07:16:56 AM
man this is good stuff,... Makes me want to start another thread. Except I'm doing the Night Train. Nobody cares about Harleys :icon_razz: :hithead:
Love seeing your daily updates! First thing I look at when I log in at work! Tank looking good! I think this is going to be a cleaaaan bike when you're done!
Thanks!
I like and ride Harley's among other makes, but I'd prob be criticized for being off topic for posting a photo here.
I'm trying to get this little beast done. Its not going to be real clean, more of a rat. Hopefully a fully functional and reliable little rat.
A little more progress today.
I was unhappy with the tank in the morning and gave it another treatment, this time using compressed air for several hours to dry it.
I reinstalled the chain guard and the sprocket cover, but the sprocket cover will have to come off again What's up with the cable adjuster? Mine doesn't turn independently of the cable!
I cut some spacers out of stainless tubing to replace the four nuts that somebody had used to mount the left side coil.
(https://iili.io/dbYrEF.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dbYrEF)
(https://iili.io/dbYgB1.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dbYgB1)
Removed the valve cover and checked valve clearance. Intakes are tight and exhaust are loose. I haven't removed and measured the shims yet.
Everything looks nice and clean under the cover, with no unusual wear. The cam chain also looks and feels very good.
(https://iili.io/dbYSLP.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dbYSLP)
Love me some valve adjustin'!! :cheers: We gotta see the other bikes!??
(https://media.tenor.com/images/136a581008c18d8c6f9b33ed955c5d52/tenor.gif)
Again great progress!
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on September 03, 2020, 06:57:45 AM
Love me some valve adjustin'!! :cheers: We gotta see the other bikes!??
(https://media.tenor.com/images/136a581008c18d8c6f9b33ed955c5d52/tenor.gif)
Again great progress!
The blogging is helping motivation .. as is a little cheerleading!
This bike for long distance at a good rate of speed... and for cooler weather riding.
(https://iili.io/4yDpj.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/)
This one for backroads and fun
(https://iili.io/dm7S3u.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dm7S3u)
(https://iili.io/dbD3HN.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dbD3HN)
Well the "bad influence" of GS Twin and GS wiki "forced me" to make an extra purchase.
The rear shock looked pretty crappy and I have read here about the R6 shock. They were a little expensive for the project. This ugly duckling was the cheapest on eBay and looked worse in the listing. I had it on my watch list anyway and then last Saturday (a sales tax holiday) the seller sent me a special offer and in a moment of weakness, I bought it.
(https://iili.io/dmhtzF.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dmhtzF)
(https://iili.io/dmhQb1.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dmhQb1)
Some spray on remover and a good pressure wash.
(https://iili.io/dmhbsa.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dmhbsa)
Looking a lot better.
(https://iili.io/dmhDWg.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dmhDWg)
(https://iili.io/dmhpqJ.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dmhpqJ)
(https://iili.io/dmhy0v.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dmhy0v)
The powder coat on the spring had a lot of chips.( Probably from the bike strippers). Rust kills springs so I decided to paint it. I was going to spray it, but became frustrated trying to mask it real well, and just applied the paint with an acid brush. IDK how well it stays, but better than rust... it is just a shock.
It will be a day until it dries enough to install.
(https://iili.io/dmj9gR.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dmj9gR)
:woohoo: Sweeet bikes! Thanks for sharing!
That's a great tip on the graffiti remover. I have a zx6 swingarm with bad overspray,.. That might be much easier to get off then repaint the whole thing.
Also be sure, alot of people view threads and dont say anything. On my basketcase thread it has over 150000 views; certainly not near that many replies! So, anyways, maybe you have more silent cheerleaders than vocal ones but everybody likes seeing some good gs work! :bowdown:
Worked on this after supper and late into Friday night.
I should have done the shock when the rear wheel was out. I definitely should have pressure washed this bike before starting on it.
The R6 shock did not come with the lower spacer. (The Wiki says to use the R6 spacer, bolt and washer)
First thing I tried was drilling the spacer. Only it's not a spacer, it's a bearing race and very hard. I checked and there is a needle roller bearing in the shock link. The spacer/race is so hard that a new, good quality cobalt drill wouldn't touch it.
I also couldn't make a spacer/race from mild steel. It would just wear right out.
So the next thing was to try and make bushings for the shock. I found a hollow split dowel of the correct size. Just one, but long enough to make two bushings.
(https://iili.io/290Pl2.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/290Pl2)
Two from one
(https://iili.io/2906Kl.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2906Kl)
Drawing the bushings in using a bolt and nut as a press. A little red loctite for good luck.
(https://iili.io/290rP4.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/290rP4)
After pressing
(https://iili.io/290iSS.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/290iSS)
Bushings filed flush. (Looking so good that I can hardly stand it.)
(https://iili.io/290LH7.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/290LH7)
Bolt and race test fitted. I had to run a 25/64" drill bit though to clean up and align the bushings ID.
(https://iili.io/2919KQ.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2919KQ)
Shock is in! (And a tight squeeze... I wasn't so sure at first, but i thought, if everyone on GS Twins could get it in, I should be able to.) It wasn't close to lining up until I pryed the top eye down about an inch with a long pry bay, piston so against the battery box support and the top of the shock eye. Then the top popped in, and then I could get the lower lined up and that bolt in. It might be a lot easier with the wheel off.
(https://iili.io/290QR9.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/290QR9)
While the fender was off, it was time to cut down and shorten the back of it. (It's a little lower than the licensing plate now). Then blast and repaint the rusty reflector bracket.
(https://iili.io/290gVf.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/290gVf)
(https://iili.io/290ZNe.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/290ZNe)
(https://iili.io/290tDu.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/290tDu)
I'm at a point where I'm waiting for some small but important parts and a tool to arrive. Everything is running later than expected (delayed). I can make progress, but I'm working around what would be the best order of doing things, and handling parts more times than needed.
The rear of the bike is basically done, so I worked on the front.
The bike came with these really cool, but really bent Aluminum handlebars.
The master cylinder was broken, no mirrors, torn grips.
I'm still waiting for cushions to mount the gauges, front wheel hub cover, caliper parts.
(https://iili.io/2JJA5F.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2JJA5F)
(https://iili.io/2JJIUP.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2JJIUP)
New Emgo "universal street handlebars" , new grips, used master cylinder, I have new Emgo factory style repro mirrors, but those won't go on to the very end of the job.
(https://iili.io/2JJuJ1.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2JJuJ1)
I rolled it outside to clean up the bay and took a couple of photos. It looks far apart, but it will come together quick once my items arrive.
(https://iili.io/2JJxfV.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2JJxfV)
(https://iili.io/2JJz0B.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2JJz0B)
Seat Lock
The ignition key didn't work the seat lock.
I took the seat lock apart to see what could be done. I'm not a locksmith by any means, but nothing to lose for trying.
It's a very simple lock. Two screws and it comes apart. Just have to be careful not to let the tumblers and springs fall out
(https://iili.io/2J5MMl.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2J5MMl)
(https://iili.io/2J5Gn4.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2J5Gn4)
This is the cylinder with no key in it and the tumblers sticking up.
(https://iili.io/2J57at.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2J57at)
The tumblers engage these slots so the lock doesn't turn.
(https://iili.io/2J50wG.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2J50wG)
One of the brass tumblers. The little arm pushes against a spring. You can see the spring in the vacant cylinder slot.
(https://iili.io/2J5Y8X.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2J5Y8X)
The tumblers are/have different sizes / slots. They have to be level with the cylinder for it to turn.
Trying the key in the tumbers. One is good. The one farthest from the key is level with the cylinder.
(https://iili.io/2J5c9n.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2J5c9n)
Switched the two middle tumblers (swapped 2&3) and now three are level.
(https://iili.io/2J5lus.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2J5lus)
The last one closest to the key was only sticking up a little, just enough to stop it from turning. A few moments work with a small file and it's all level.
No tumbler is sticking out top or bottom.
(https://iili.io/2J51tf.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2J51tf)
Reassembled and it works.
(https://iili.io/2J5VP2.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2J5VP2)
Notes:
If you had trouble getting all the tumblers level, you could leave only one or two tumblers in, it would be less secure, but it's just a seat lock.
If you have a few locks, the assortment of tumblers makes it easier to get one working.
If you didn't want to bother with tumblers matching the key, You could take all the tumblers out and then it will turn with any key that fit in, or even a screwdriver.
For some reason there's adhesive on the tank, some black gummy stuff and some black RTV. I don't know why or what they were doing to the bike. I have an old bottle of "Goo-gone"'
Its working well on the gummy stuff. The RTV only comes off with a plastic putty knife.
There's not time to fix and paint the tank. (Maybe this winter). It'll get touched up and buffed for now.
(https://iili.io/2djW41.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2djW41)
(https://iili.io/2djMCB.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2djMCB)
(https://iili.io/2djVEP.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2djVEP)
It's just a guess but the PO might have been trying to use the RTV to hold the tank trim on. That first pic seems like overkill though.
When I got my bike, it was missing the trim completely. When I bought the OEM replacement stuff, I found that it stays on without the need for any adhesives :dunno_black:
If you're curious, it's number 4 in the diagram here:
https://www.motosport.com/oem-parts/suzuki/1998/gs500e/fuel-tank%28model-w~x%29
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on September 08, 2020, 12:30:09 AM
It's just a guess but the PO might have been trying to use the RTV to hold the tank trim on. That first pic seems like overkill though.
When I got my bike, it was missing the trim completely. When I bought the OEM replacement stuff, I found that it stays on without the need for any adhesives :dunno_black:
If you're curious, it's number 4 in the diagram here:
https://www.motosport.com/oem-parts/suzuki/1998/gs500e/fuel-tank%28model-w~x%29
Thanks ShowBiz
So I see that numbers 6, 9, 10 are missing. I'm regretting not looking into this and ordering the #9 front cushion.
Does anyone have a real photo of that (edit, it's #9) front cushion ??? It's not the cost, but the wait at this point.
(https://iili.io/2dsVb2.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2dsVb2)
Do you think that this universal edging (automotive style) could be used for the trim?
(https://iili.io/2dmEEN.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2dmEEN)
(https://iili.io/2dm1Bp.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2dm1Bp)
(https://iili.io/2dmlQR.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2dmlQR)
Great work! Goo gone is goo-d stuff!
Man, this thing is wearing me out. I now realize it's missing ALL the tank mounts and hardware. I just thought the bolts were out. This is what happens when you buy a bike you know nothing about.
So now I order more stuff... or make it.
I tried some of trim on and it seems Ok.
I can't really mock up the tank without mounts. Thoughts anyone?
(https://iili.io/22XSI4.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/22XSI4)
(https://iili.io/22XUhl.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/22XUhl)
I pulled the tappet shims to see the sizes. I had trouble with the motion pro tool slipping off the bucket edge. It's hard to see, but the part of the tool the pushes the bucket had a casting or forging line and was rounded. I filed it to be flatter and have a sharper , squared edge. It worked a bit better but still a PITA IMHO.
(https://iili.io/22X4BS.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/22X4BS)
(https://iili.io/22XgQ2.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/22XgQ2)
I ordered just two shims from Z1 (Dime City). This should put the intakes at about the larger end of spec.
The exhaust are just a little over spec, I didn't want to tighten them up to near minimum with a shim change.
It would have been nice if I could have swapped intake for exhaust (2.60. & 2.65) but that was going the wrong direction (worse, not better)
That trim looks like it fits pretty good :thumb:
Gosh I can relate. There were so many little things about my bike when I bought it that I had to fix and/or replace... wow was I ever thankful (and still am) for parts diagrams!
One sentence was kinda confusing, not sure if you meant a pic of #6 (the tank trim) or the front cushion (#9)... but I went through my pictures and found this one of the front tank cushion:
(https://i.imgur.com/SMsckxyl.jpg)
I did improvise for a few years, before I ordered the OEM one. I remember I had an old rubber floor mat that I cut and layered up... then used silicone to keep it in place on the frame. I also had to put some on the tank bracket, because the OEM cushion goes on top of the frame as well as under it. From my experience, I'd order the OEM one.
I coulda sworn I had an up-close picture of the tank trim but I'm not finding it now :technical:
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on September 09, 2020, 12:58:31 AM
That trim looks like it fits pretty good :thumb:
Gosh I can relate. There were so many little things about my bike when I bought it that I had to fix and/or replace... wow was I ever thankful (and still am) for parts diagrams!
One sentence was kinda confusing, not sure if you meant a pic of #6 (the tank trim) or the front cushion (#9)... but I went through my pictures and found this one of the front tank cushion:
(https://i.imgur.com/SMsckxyl.jpg)
I did improvise for a few years, before I ordered the OEM one. I remember I had an old rubber floor mat that I cut and layered up... then used silicone to keep it in place on the frame. I also had to put some on the tank bracket, because the OEM cushion goes on top of the frame as well as under it. From my experience, I'd order the OEM one.
I coulda sworn I had an up-close picture of the tank trim but I'm not finding it now :technical:
It was the #9 front (I Edited the typo) Your photo is what I was looking for, thanks!
I see that it's kind of fancy!
Are the #10 side cushions just little square blocks of rubber /foam rubber?
I'm ordering today at least the front #9 and the rear upper and lower #13&14
It took me 2 or 3 valve adjustments to figure out how that motion pro valve shim tool is supposed to work. Its a tricky thing, but once you get the muscle memory for it, it works really well.
I'm glad I can help! From what I remember, those #10's are indeed just little (dense) foam cubes. When I look at the side of my bike, I can see them... so I measured one and they are 3/4" tall. They sit right on the frame.
Funny thing is the F-series with the new shape tank doesn't have the little square foam cubes (that I'm aware of), although the rest of the tank mountings are virtually the same. So what is the purpose of the foam cubes?
Quote from: SK Racing on September 09, 2020, 12:01:15 PM
Funny thing is the F-series with the new shape tank doesn't have the little square foam cubes (that I'm aware of), although the rest of the tank mountings are virtually the same. So what is the purpose of the foam cubes?
IDK, but did not order them at $5 ea. I'll substitute for that (it's just foam rubber)
I thought about making substitution for all the mounts. A piece of sliced (Lengthwise) hose for the front. Rubber grommets or washers for the rear. However, a loose and/or vibrating, rattling tank sucks. ShowBiz's comments reinforced that memory.
This is what the mounting rubbers look like for the rear of the tank.
The steel spacer is 18mm long, 6.5mm ID, 9mm OD. There is an H-shaped rubber ring, about 14mm ID, 25mm OD x 8mm high. The second rubber has a stepped shape, 9mm ID, 25mm OD and 8mm high with the stepped part raising up 10mm, 14mm OD.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZrcrzsV.jpg)
Quote from: SK Racing on September 09, 2020, 02:20:42 PM
This is what the mounting rubbers look like for the rear of the tank.
The steel spacer is 18mm long, 6.5mm ID, 9mm OD. There is an H-shaped rubber ring, about 14mm ID, 25mm OD x 8mm high. The second rubber has a stepped shape, 9mm ID, 25mm OD and 8mm high with the stepped part raising up 10mm, 14mm OD.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZrcrzsV.jpg)
Thanks, that's way better than the parts diagram.
I know that as an isolation mount and it's hard to substitute. A lot of machinery, industrial engines and generators use those, but larger.
I put the order in for the front mount cushion, the rear mount cushions (rubbers) and spacers.
A light day on the GS
The gas tank mounts are ordered.
Made a tasty Italian style pasta topping with fresh tomatoes, basil and peppers from the garden. (https://iili.io/23QKF9.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/23QKF9)
Then it back to the gauges and dash. The gauge cushions (Suzuki seems to call a lot of things cushions) arrived yesterday. I mocked up and thought it needed a little more clearance at the reset knob.
Since it needed tough up anyway after gringing, I decided to fix the paint on it. (It had wrinkled because I sprayed clear at the wrong time) so, it was wet sanded and received another two coats of clear.
(https://iili.io/23Q367.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/23Q367)
(https://iili.io/23Qfae.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/23Qfae)
It was dry enough to mock-up the gauges in after a couple of hours.
(https://iili.io/23QByb.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/23QByb)
This front wheel hub cover came in too. It was a match for the dark wheel, so it had to be painted silver and clear.
(https://iili.io/23Qq8u.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/)
Oh my... bike stuff AND foodies! That really looks good :nom nom:
ooohhhh pastaaaa :laugh:
Quote from: SK Racing on September 09, 2020, 02:20:42 PM
This is what the mounting rubbers look like for the rear of the tank.
The steel spacer is 18mm long, 6.5mm ID, 9mm OD. There is an H-shaped rubber ring, about 14mm ID, 25mm OD x 8mm high. The second rubber has a stepped shape, 9mm ID, 25mm OD and 8mm high with the stepped part raising up 10mm, 14mm OD.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZrcrzsV.jpg)
This has become extra good and needed info because the spacers are on back order. I just ordered them for convenience (and that they have to be the correct length to preload the rubber properly).
With your measurements I'll be able to move forward! :thumb:
Happy to be of assistance. :)
Btw, I bought those SS bolts and washers for my current project. The original ones were steel.
Btw2, my measurements of the steel spacers are accurate to 0.1mm. I've used a vernier caliper to measure. So far I've had zero luck in finding spacers locally. So, I hope you have better luck, or maybe you can machine it yourself since you seem to have all sorts of drool-worthy shop equipment.
It was the night to finish up the instrument cluster..(or whatever it's called)
I installed six of the very common 194 bulbs. They are brighter and much longer life than the 158 bulbs that were in there.. Tested them out before assembling.
(https://iili.io/2FmpmF.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2FmpmF)
Then I remember that it's missing ... yep another "cushion", that I forgot to order. I ended up making a crude substitute from a scrap of neoprene rubber sheet.
(https://iili.io/2Fmme1.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2Fmme1)
It's a bit fumblely putting all together
(https://iili.io/2Fp9zg.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2Fp9zg)
(https://iili.io/2FpHXa.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2FpHXa)
On the bike.
(https://iili.io/2FpJLJ.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2FpJLJ)
(https://iili.io/2FpU4R.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2FpU4R)
Overall, I think it's a mediocre result for a lot of work. It cost very little tho, $3. in bulbs, $12 for "cushions" and the rest was welding, straightening, epoxy, sanding, painting, making labels,... all stuff I had. It looks a heck of a lot better than it did. A decent used set is $150-200. New parts for the plastic bucket and metal frame is over $200.
All in all, I'm happy to have one more item done and to be moving onto the next...
'at looks rocking! (https://www.motohouston.com/forums/images/smilies/headbang.gif)
I'd put some black heatshrink in the center section of the handlebar to hide the knurling. :icon_idea:
Sk that's a good tip!
Quote from: SK Racing on September 11, 2020, 07:20:34 AM
I'd put some black heatshrink in the center section of the handlebar to hide the knurling. :icon_idea:
Good idea If I have the bars off again.
They're kinda wide at 31" inches. I figured good for a new rider, but they can easily be shortened an inch each side.
I also found my new off-road style handlebar too wide at 31". Then I cut an inch off each end it it feels perfect now.
So I want to get the front end all together. I had bought EBC pads for the original Tokico caliper only to find that the caliper was missing some of the little shim/ pad guide hardware. The parts are back ordered with no fill date.
So I order an AJP caliper from pinwheel cycle. It's cheap and it's in great shape, nice and clean. The pistons retracted like butter, I could have probably used my fingers.
(https://iili.io/2f2Sfe.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2f2Sfe)
(https://iili.io/2f2U0u.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2f2U0u)
(https://iili.io/2f2gUb.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2f2gUb)
It came with half worn Tokico HH pads.. funny.
I've already have a pad collection going.. two new sets for the rear (one is EBC HH I don't want a new rider to have) and one new for the front I can't use... and don't feel like buying more pads until this bike running and riding.
So they get lapped on a lapping block, but with sandpaper. This goes quick. First photo is about 30 seconds each, second is another minute or so. I give them a couple coats of high heat silver. This is so they look good at the safety inspection.
(https://iili.io/2f2exS.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2f2exS)
(https://iili.io/2f2vs9.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2f2vs9)
(https://iili.io/2f2Nb2.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2f2Nb2)
(https://iili.io/2f2kW7.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2f2kW7)
(https://iili.io/2f24Jj.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2f24Jj)
(https://iili.io/2f2POQ.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2f2POQ)
The hub cover finally came in, painted and on.
(https://iili.io/2f265x.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2f265x)
Installed the wheel and caliper only to find the shiny anchor bolt in the photo is rubbing on the caliper buttons.
(https://iili.io/2f2LzB.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2f2LzB)
I measure how centered the wheel is in the forks and the wheel is offset towards the caliper about 1/8"
About the amount the axle bolt is sticking out.
(https://iili.io/2f2ibV.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2f2ibV)
WTH... I go and look at the service manual and.... I've got the AXLE IN BACKWARDS :hithead:
That was enough for the night... tomorrow is another day.
So this was driving me nuts first thing this AM. I pull the axle and the spacer is on the wrong end.
This is just how it was assembled before I took the bike apart.
I could not move the spacer by hand, and had to clamp it in vise with brass jaws, then tap the axle out with a soft faced hammer.
(Note: My two other bikes have the axle nut on the opposite side of the pinch bolts, not on the same side as the GS500 does)
I re-assembled it correctly and had just a little clearance to the caliper anchor bolt.
If the fork leg is pushed against the axle nut, and then the pinch bolt is tightened, there is ample clearance.
I went and loosened, the re-torqued all the triple tree fork tube pinch bolts and the fender support/fork brace bolts.. :dunno_black:
(https://iili.io/2fl9YG.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2fl9YG)
I have to wonder though... Did I install this bearing first (left side) per the service manual? If not, it could cause the wheel to be offset. I had the manual and thought it was done properly... but it's entirely possible to be disoriented on which side was left and right.
(https://iili.io/2fcy2s.md.png) (https://freeimage.host/i/2fcy2s)
I thought today was going to see most of this bike put together. Instead, I got my butt kicked by this bike on. A lot of my issues are a complete lack of experience with this make and model.
After installing the fender, wheel, caliper, lines, tach and speedo cables and working to secure the wiring and cables, things just don't seem right. Then I realize that the headlight brackets are on backwards. They did seem kind of odd, kind of ugly, but the bucket etc... was mounted that way when we bought it.
(https://iili.io/2fZeAF.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2fZeAF)
(https://iili.io/2fZO91.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2fZO91)
What a naive fool, I've already had the forks off this bike once for a rebuild and never looked carefully at a parts diagram.
Now, it all comes apart again... brake, speedo, wheel, the headlight bucket, the turn signals.
And the headlight bucket was nasty inside. Wire brushed it, hit it with rust converter, primed and clear coated the inside.
(https://iili.io/2ftSe9.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ftSe9)
Then it's put it back together, try to reassemble everything properly... Suzuki does give nice drawings of all the cable and wire runs.
Test the turn signals and neither front works. Check the wiring to the schematic. Check the bulbs and the bulbs and sockets are brutally corroded. They are never going to work reliably.
I decided to try an LED conversion by directly soldering to the bulb. They are 1157 type so the extra wire was run for running lights.
It all fits snugly together... the only issue is if an LED fails, it's not a simple bulb swap.
(https://iili.io/2ftADg.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ftADg)
(https://iili.io/2ftTR1.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ftTR1)
(https://iili.io/2ft5xa.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ft5xa)
(https://iili.io/2ftuOF.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ftuOF)
(https://iili.io/2ft7WJ.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ft7WJ)
I have way too much time into this project. I'd expected to be just about done on Saturday, but nope it's issue after issue.
Work to complete it is going to have to slow down, there are so many other things pilling up around here. So no new progress to report.
I did find time to make a nice garden fresh, eggplant parmigiana yesterday.
(https://iili.io/2BiG2I.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2BiG2I)
Look at all this progress,....errr,.... :hithead: So much fun eh?! This is typically my garage time: thinking I'm good on something and, wait I, crap,..have to redo it. haha Still that eggplant parmigiana looks divine!!!
I did spend a late hour and completed the front turn signal re-hash / LED conversion last night.
(https://iili.io/2CD39p.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2CD39p)
(https://iili.io/2CDJcv.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2CDJcv)
(https://iili.io/2CDFAN.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2CDFAN)
(https://iili.io/2CDdSR.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2CDdSR)
(https://iili.io/2CDKNI.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2CDKNI)
The signals were getting water inside.
In a effort to make a better gasket seal, black RTV was applied to the ledge and the gasket set into it, allowed to cure. This made the gasket sit level and gave the lens something to compress.
(https://iili.io/2CDftt.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2CDftt)
This old leather punch was my grandfathers. I found a novel use for it. Making tiny screw gaskets.
(It took a few tries to make good ones)
(https://iili.io/2CDBoX.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2CDBoX)
(https://iili.io/2CDCVn.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2CDCVn)
Very bright!
With LED front and incandescent rear bulb, the flash rate is fast, but prob acceptable
(https://iili.io/2CDnPs.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2CDnPs)
I haven't tried connecting the running lights yet.
What's wrong with this picture???
I've posted photos from this view and nobody commented.
So what do you see wrong???
(https://iili.io/2nvd5G.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2nvd5G)
Apart from the front tank rubber mount, I don't know.
The suspense is killing me... What is it?
Corrected in this photo
(https://iili.io/2xJJB2.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2xJJB2)
Before, the coils were mounted upside down.
Just confirmed by looking at my 2004 F-model. :thumb:
Quote from: SK Racing on September 17, 2020, 02:49:50 AM
Before, the coils were mounted upside down.
Just confirmed by looking at my 2004 F-model. :thumb:
Yep.
The valve shims came in and I wanted to get the engine closed up.
(BTW, The final valve clearance was a very snug .003" /.76mm feeler gauge on the INTAKES.
Snug .004" /.101 on the EXHAUST (no shims changed EXHAUST)
Put the valve the cover on, gapped and installed the spark plugs, went to put the plug wires on and realized that the spark plug caps were very loose. Once the caps were screwed onto the wires, the plug wires became too short.
Once again, someone had previously misassembled components.
The factory service manual is very good with wire and cable routing diagrams.
Suzuki glued the re-useable rubber valve cover gasket in place with black RTV. They glue it into the cover and the four "half moon" sections into the head at the cams.
When I removed the cover, the "half moons" were glued in tightly and the rest of the gasket pulled out of the cover easier. However, this was a mistake. I spent a good solid hour cleaning all the old RTV out of the cover groove and off the gasket... just to glue it back with more fresh black RTV.
If there is a next time, you can be sure that I'll carefully free the "half moons" from the head and leave the gasket glued to the cover!
(https://iili.io/2xz0RR.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2xz0RR)
Good tip. Thanks for the heads-up. :thumb:
If its silicone RTV Suzuki didn't put it there. Its probably just the gasket degrading and the left over remnants.
RTV sets rigid and has a habit of breaking off when cured then taking a trip around the engine and becoming lodged in oilways, blocking oil pickups and filters and getting between clutch plates. Not something the manufactures take chances on.
I know people who have learnt this the hard way.
There are far more suitable and safer products than anything based on silicone.
I only use this, it has never failed to work and more importantly.......its never caused me to worry about what harm it may be doing inside the engine.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hylomar-Universal-Gasket-Jointing-Compound/dp/B079D8XJSP/ref=asc_df_B079D8XJSP/?tag=bingshoppinga-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=&hvpos=&hvnetw=o&hvrand=&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583726549159376&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hylomar-Universal-Gasket-Jointing-Compound/dp/B079D8XJSP/ref=asc_df_B079D8XJSP/?tag=bingshoppinga-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=&hvpos=&hvnetw=o&hvrand=&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583726549159376&psc=1)
I will agree that an excess of silicone RTV is a bad thing. The excess that squeezes out of a joint when tightened, may get loose and then work it's way into oil passages and other components.
Properly applied, silicone RTV is good stuff.
I've never removed a GS500 valve cover before, so I can't say what is usually there for sealant.
I am 100% sure that this engine had black silicone RTV applied to the cover grooves and cam ends.
I'm also 100% sure that the rubber gasket is in very good condition. No sign of hardening or deterioration.
I used Gen II ultra black RTV, sparingly applied to the areas Suzuki shows in the FSM.
(https://iili.io/2xNGi7.png) (https://freeimage.host/)
I looked up Suzuki Bond 1207B
That is actually Three Bond 1207B, Black silicone RTV.
(https://iili.io/2xUCrB.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2xUCrB)
A little more progress tonight with the lighting all back together.
Solid state flasher installed
(https://iili.io/2xDJkv.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2xDJkv)
The brown wire was unused and listed as "position indicator" in the schematic. It comes on with ignition. I made a small "Y" harness and connected the running lights of the turn signals (having converted to 1157 LED)
(https://iili.io/2xDdpR.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2xDdpR)
The bucket was missing one of the wire clips shown in the wire routing diagram. I didn't have anything made for that and had to make do with a small bit of metal strapping.
(https://iili.io/2xD3Ip.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2xD3Ip)
Just enough to hold a wire tie and secure the main harness.
(https://iili.io/2xDKQI.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2xDKQI)
Nothing is without drama or issue on the front of this bike. The bezel was held on with one sheet metal screw and the adjuster was gone. Here it is repaired, with a 6/32" screw and a speed nut clip. The spring from the hardware store. Two new flathead metric screws to secure the bezel.
(https://iili.io/2xDFhN.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2xDFhN)
Final result of headlight and running lights. I couldn't really capture the flasher well with a still photo, but think there is enough difference in brightness (running to turn) that it's OK.
(https://iili.io/2xDqBt.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2xDqBt)
Yeah.....Threebond.....I know that stuff. They put it in a tube that says Suzuki on it and charge x3 for it :D
Still......I am always weary of using anything that sets hard like RTV, heard to many horror stories.
Once the front turn signals were made dual brightness (running and turn) it's easy to see why they are considered unattractive to GS owners. Add that these need to be tweaked (mounting ears) so they are more level and yeah, only a mother could love 'em.
They are staying for now because it's more visibility and (esp. new) riders, need all they can get.
(https://iili.io/2zjkAv.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2zjkAv)
I have a real busy weekend of repairing other things, but still trying to keep this project moving.
Sprocket cover back off to lube the cable and adjust it. The cable does not swivel in the cover, the entire housing has to spin to adjust the cable at the cover :mad:
I hope to get the other two cables lubed this weekend.
(https://iili.io/2IJoB4.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2IJoB4)
(https://iili.io/2IJxEl.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2IJxEl)
This can of black synthetic enamel is the oldest, longest open can of paint I've ever used. This can was first opened about 35 years ago. It was stored upside down and amazingly it's still perfectly good.
(https://iili.io/2IJz42.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2IJz42)
(https://iili.io/2IJT2S.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2IJT2S)
The tank had a LOT of dings, chips, scratches , and a few dents. I think it can be saved, dents pulled and filled, but it's not happening now. I just want the bare metal spots covered so the tank can be used for a bit. It can always be refinished later.
For now, it's rust converter as the primer and then touched up with straight enamel.
(https://iili.io/2IJRpe.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2IJRpe)
No illusions of this looking great, just covered up and stable... not rusting
(https://iili.io/2IJuY7.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2IJuY7)
(https://iili.io/2IJAv9.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2IJAv9)
Met the very modest goal for today of lubing all the cables, adjusting the clutch, securing the wires to the handle bars.
That clutch cable adjuster is a long way out! IDK if that is typical, or a sign that the cable is stretched. The clutch lever feel is good.
(https://iili.io/2IZCMP.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2IZCMP)
(https://iili.io/2IZnP1.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2IZnP1)
Some protective loom over the coil primary wire and secured.
(https://iili.io/2IZftV.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2IZftV)
The K&N Lunchbox was filthy. After cleaning, I noticed that the wire mesh was worn in several places. Inspection with light showed the filter media was still intact. A little oil resistant black cement was applied to stabilize the filter. Maybe tomorrow the the filter will get oiled and reinstalled.
(https://iili.io/2IZFAx.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2IZFAx)
(https://iili.io/2IZBoB.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2IZBoB)
(https://iili.io/2IZKwQ.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2IZKwQ)
It's time to make a "punch list" of items left to finish!
Taillight / Brake light problem
When the brake light is turned on, one bulb goes off completely, the other lights up the bright filament only. When one bulb that does show brake light is removed, the other tail goes off. The schematic shows wires in parallel. Suspicion of a ground problem.
(https://iili.io/2ThF7s.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ThF7s)
(https://iili.io/2ThKkG.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ThKkG)
First thing was to swap bulbs side to side, push the bulb against the socket shell, etc... no change.
(https://iili.io/2TbZa1.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2TbZa1)
Removed the taillight assembly and started testing with the meter.
There is NO continuity between the two socket shells (ground). There is continuity between both tail light contacts and the two brake light contacts. Also check from the plug to the sockets.
Bad
(https://iili.io/2ThBI4.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ThBI4)
Good
(https://iili.io/2Thfpf.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2Thfpf)
Good
(https://iili.io/2ThChl.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ThChl)
Good
(https://iili.io/2ThnQ2.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ThnQ2)
Bad
(https://iili.io/2ThxBS.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ThxBS)
The socket removes from the taillight housing with a twist. You can see the copper wire at the top of the socket. Probing the wire, the meter showed continuity to the plug.
(https://iili.io/2ThzE7.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ThzE7)
The metal socket shell pushes out with a little force. The wire and shell are corroded., you can see the rust spot. All that makes contact is the press fit against the wire.
(https://iili.io/2ThI49.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ThI49)
(https://iili.io/2Thu2e.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2Thu2e)
Options were to:
1) Just clean and re-assemble
2) See if the shell would take solder.
Cleaned the shell and the wire with scotchbrite. Tried tinning the shell and it took.
Soldered the wire onto the shell.
(https://iili.io/2ThAYu.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ThAYu)
Pressed it back together and tested.
Good on the bench
(https://iili.io/2TmIP2.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2TmIP2)
Good on the bike.
(The bulb was a bit loose in the socket shell after messing with it. It had to be tightened (squeeze with needle nose pliers) to be perfect.)
(https://iili.io/2Th5pj.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2Th5pj)
(https://iili.io/2ThYTx.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ThYTx)
Those little foam blocks that Suzuki wants $5 each for the fuel tank, exist on the taillight too. I had to re-glue them with contact cement. The don't actually touch until the light moves a fair bit... I think they're just to limit motion.
(https://iili.io/2ThahQ.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ThahQ)
(https://iili.io/2ThcQV.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ThcQV)
Found a complete tool bag on eBay for $10. and stowed it in the spot by the taillight.
I always like to have a factory tool kit.
They are nothing great, but do have the basic tools for adjustments, emergency repairs and wheel removal.
(https://iili.io/2Th0CB.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2Th0CB)
man look at all these pics,... good stuff on a sleepy monday morning at work!
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on September 21, 2020, 06:54:59 AM
man look at all these pics,... good stuff on a sleepy monday morning at work!
I prob spent more time on photos than working on it this past weekend :D
I had to take apart the engine in one of the family vehicles. Timing cover, the timing chains, the cylinder head. It blew the timing chain and bent some valves. That's the major repair going on currently.
I squeezed in a little motorcycle work and wrote it up instead of watching TV or something...
It's down to this list. Even after all this time and effort, there is a number of items. I have just about everything except a couple bits... cotter pin and will need to have the key made.
I made the list and then completed just one item... the taillight...
(https://iili.io/2AhTYX.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2AhTYX)
This spring pin will be good for the rear. I have to find the correct size standard style cotter pin for the front. Its in between USA sizes and must be a metric size.
(https://iili.io/2ANTYP.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ANTYP)
This stuff keeps showing up... and taking up my time.
(https://iili.io/2ANuv1.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ANuv1)
Quote from: SK Racing on September 09, 2020, 02:20:42 PM
This is what the mounting rubbers look like for the rear of the tank.
The steel spacer is 18mm long, 6.5mm ID, 9mm OD. There is an H-shaped rubber ring, about 14mm ID, 25mm OD x 8mm high. The second rubber has a stepped shape, 9mm ID, 25mm OD and 8mm high with the stepped part raising up 10mm, 14mm OD.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZrcrzsV.jpg)
Had a few minutes to spare... and made up the spacers.
(https://iili.io/2Ab6G4.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2Ab6G4)
Quote from: Sporty on September 22, 2020, 06:12:09 AM
Had a few minutes to spare... and made up the spacers.
Looking good. :thumb:
I allowed 30 minutes before supper to get something done from the list... that turned into 40 minutes.
Axles torqued and cotter pins in. A 5/32" is the best I'm going to find for the front.
The rear will keep the spring pin, at least until the chain and sprockets wear in and are re-adjusted
(https://iili.io/25xIee.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/25xIee)
(https://iili.io/25xngS.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/25xngS)
Lubed the seat lock cable.
(https://iili.io/25xz79.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/25xz79)
Installed the repaired seat lock and the cable. The previous owner was tugging the cable housing to release the seat. The vinyl covering was wadded at the latch end because of that. This made it so the latch didn't have full travel. A little work with a knife, the cable fit into the end and it works nice and smoothly.
(https://iili.io/25xxd7.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/25xxd7)
(https://iili.io/25xAzb.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/25xAzb)
(https://iili.io/25xTmu.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/25xTmu)
Funny, but this made me quite happy. Sometimes the little things are satisfying.
Knocking down the list another notch.
Bled the front and rear brakes.
Covered up the paint before starting the job... brake fluid sucks.
I used a vacuum pump for drawing fluid samples from compartments. It works better than the mighty vac for brakes.
Bled the front about 3X more than necessary and it still had a mediocre feel at best.
Let it be and bled the rear. When the front brake lever was squeezed a half hour later... it felt very good.
The brake lever also was squeaking and annoying. A few squirts of spray lube (cable lube) and it quieted down.
(https://iili.io/27Fb5b.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/27Fb5b)
The rear brake had a good pedal after replacing pads, but the brake fluid was old.
(https://iili.io/27Fmej.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/27Fmej)
First the reservoir was sucked almost dry by dipping the vacuum hose into it. (no photo of that)
Then four refills, vacuumed out the rear caliper bleeder and it was almost clear.
(https://iili.io/27FZge.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/27FZge)
(https://iili.io/27FDdu.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/27FDdu)
Nasty old fluid removed.
(https://iili.io/27Fpmx.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/27Fpmx)
Just a small job but the bike had no front brake and a grinding, metal to metal rear brake when it came home. Finally having working brakes is kind of a big deal!
Thanks for the write-up on brake bleeding. It's something I've never done before, but will have to in the near future.
Quote from: SK Racing on September 23, 2020, 10:33:27 PM
Thanks for the write-up on brake bleeding. It's something I've never done before, but will have to in the near future.
My pleasure, but that's really just "show and tell".
You don't need a vacuum pump, but it makes for an easy and clean one person job.
There's a few ways to bleed... pumping, drip, pressure, vacuum
The procedure used in the photos was vacuum.
1) fill the res.
2) make sure the bleeder can turn, crack it open, then lightly close it
3) attach the vacuum hose,
4) pull a vacuum
5) open the bleeder just enough for fluid to flow.
6) maintain vacuum, then close the bleeder before the res gets too low.
Operate the brake pedal/lever and bleed again. Repeat again if needed.
That's even better. Thanks! :thumb:
The bike was missing the ignition side cover.
One was procured from eBay early in the project, but it was missing the emblem. It seems all the used ones are missing the emblem :dunno_black: Without the emblem, there is an open hole in the cover.
I bought a multi pack of this aluminum foil tape for a project. I had a lot left over it and it's handy for all kinds of things.
(https://iili.io/2YweIt.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2YweIt)
Four layers of tape, stuck/stacked, then cut into a circle and applied. One little circle on the inside. Sprayed rattle can black. It looked good, but it's been beating around the shop for about six weeks now and it's scratched up, foil flexed and crinkled, etc... It will have to do for now.
(https://iili.io/2YwSBs.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2YwSBs)
(https://iili.io/2YwkhX.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2YwkhX)
More of a worry was that one of the threaded mounting bosses is broken. (Circle in red). Used clutch covers are plentiful and inexpensive, but was wanting to get by with this one . FYI Note: the green arrow is pointing at the infamous oil pressure switch/sensor.
(https://iili.io/2YwvQn.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2YwvQn)
I thought about various epoxy repair methods. It turned out that even with the broken casting, there was still enough thread to hold a screw. Some loctite was applied to that one screw and it was carefully tightened just finger tight with the Allen key.
(https://iili.io/2YwUEG.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2YwUEG)
Fitted the tank mount cushions
(https://iili.io/2Yw424.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2Yw424)
(https://iili.io/2Yw6Yl.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2Yw6Yl)
The "Cobra F1s" Muffler was poorly mounted and needed attention. There was no washer against the rubber mount. It was loose on the pipe. The exhaust clamps were positioned incorrectly and the larger clamp was hitting the swingarm.
(https://iili.io/2Ywg4f.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2Ywg4f)
(https://iili.io/2YwPv2.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2YwPv2)
(https://iili.io/2YwLT7.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2YwLT7)
Clamps, removed, turned, and retightened. Out of the way, plenty of clearance to the swingarm.
(https://iili.io/2YwipS.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2YwipS)
(https://iili.io/2YwQj9.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2YwQj9)
The adapter pipe is rusty....maybe it gets removed and painted later in the off season.
Another awesome update imo! And I do love that aluminum tape... it's great. SUPER sticky too.
Another small job done, the speedo cable guide. The original was all rubber and broken. It was removed to repair and re paint the fender. The plan was to cut it down and reuse the base as a grommet and standoff. It's been misplaced or tossed in the bin. That is starting to happen, the job has dragged on, small parts have been moved more than once and now can't be found.
A rubber grommet installed in the hole.
(https://iili.io/2awAKJ.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2awAKJ)
Then a plastic wire tie holder fastened with a screw through the grommet and secured with a self locking nut and a washer big enough so it can't pull through the grommet or fender.
A fat wire tie serves as the cable guide.
(https://iili.io/2awTPa.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2awTPa)
Not the fanciest, but it's done.
(https://iili.io/2aw5SR.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2aw5SR)
Next was having the spare key made. The local locksmith died this year (RIP)
I should have gone into the city, but ended up ordering key blanks from eBay and having the hardware store cut the blank.
(https://iili.io/2awRcv.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2awRcv)
Big difference in key lengths. The new key is the short style.
(https://iili.io/2awY9p.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2awY9p)
(https://iili.io/2RFcxI.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2RFcxI)
The "Punch list" became a little longer, but is getting done.
(https://iili.io/2cBvf4.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2cBvf4)
I find it soooo satisfying, making lists and then crossing things off like that. I've currently got a similar one going for a Sebring I just bought (I'm a Mopar gal :laugh:)
Those shorter keys look great! I'll look into those when/if I ever need to make more for my bike.
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on September 26, 2020, 01:16:37 PM
I find it soooo satisfying, making lists and then crossing things off like that. I've currently got a similar one going for a Sebring I just bought (I'm a Mopar gal :laugh:)
I built this 501 cu/in stroker for customer a few years ago.
It went into a 69 Dodge Dart and ran 9.71 at 144 mph the first time out.
(No bragging, just sharing for the love of Mopars)
(https://iili.io/2cuwPe.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2cuwPe)
That is fantastic!!!! You made my Saturday :D :D :D
I've been working on this nasty old gas tank since the beginning of the project. It was rusty inside, the paint was all scratched up, with chips to bare metal, and a few dents.
Just been poking at it here and there, spending a few minutes at a time. First the inside, the petcock. Then touch up, wet sanding. Then finally tonight, buffing and trim.
The goal was just to make it usable and presentable for now.
Before any buffing
(https://iili.io/2c0kU7.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2c0kU7)i
(https://iili.io/2c0elS.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2c0elS)
(https://iili.io/2c0Of2.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2c0Of2)
First time using Turtle wax "Clean Cut". It's actually quite good, on par with the pro stuff.
(https://iili.io/2c0UOu.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2c0UOu)
Don't spare the juice!
(https://iili.io/2c08J9.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2c08J9)
This is a very awkward tank to buff on the bench. A ratchet strap helped hold it down.
(https://iili.io/2c0gDb.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2c0gDb)
(https://iili.io/2c06Wx.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2c06Wx)
Looking a lot better!
the original paint has a nice blue purple flake in it.
(https://iili.io/2c04xj.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2c04xj)
The gas cap came with the bike. It's kind of cool, CNC machined, We'll see how it works out.
(https://iili.io/2c0PiQ.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2c0PiQ)
Petcock installed
(https://iili.io/2c0sfV.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2c0sfV)
Trim installed.
(https://iili.io/2c0L0B.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2c0L0B)
Spent a couple hours working (getting frustrated) with the K&N filter, and plumbing nightmare of fuel lines, breather hose, carb vent hose.
What was Suzuki thinking ???
The K&N seemed too small to fit onto the carbs. The number checked as correct. I think it was not on all the way, the clamps tightend onto the rubber and not positioned over the the metal spigot of the carb, and that "shrunk" the filter. It was a lot of working and stretching to get it on and clamped. >:(
(https://iili.io/2lceMQ.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2lceMQ)
The "Visu-Filter " installed with new fuel line. If someone isn't familiar, the Visu-Filter is a 60 micron stainless screen in a rugged plastic housing. It can be blown out to clean. It's there to keep out anything big enough to clog up a jet.
(https://iili.io/2lcwtj.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2lcwtj)
(https://iili.io/20RLwx.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/20RLwx)
Mocking up with the tank to be sure everything fits..
(https://iili.io/2lcOox.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2lcOox)
I needed to test how much reserve this rehashed petcock would yield
(https://iili.io/dOn3db.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/dOn3db)
Rigged up the tank level and poured gas in with a "calibrated :laugh:" two liter bottle and was a little shy of two bottles (4 liters) before fuel began coming out the main feed. So about 3.6 liters useable reserve.
(https://iili.io/20V8oF.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/20V8oF)
I had chosen 25.4 mm OD washers for the mount bolts that looked correct, but they rubbed the bracket. Had to drill out 5 x 22 washers for the job.
(https://iili.io/20VDVn.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/20VDVn)
The tank is on, but has a gap under the front of the moulding.
This is such a good thread. Don't know where you get the energy to do the work AND take photos.
I've been doing a bunch of work on my own bike, but took very few pics.
I can't wait for your next post. :thumb:
Exactly two months after it came home, the thoroughly rehashed GS500E, gets its first test drive.
It runs and rides OK!
. Idles well around 1200, pulls good from about 5K RPM and up. Definitely a dog in higher gears at say 3k RPM. It should have plenty of pep for a new rider. It gets to 50 MPH quickly. I could not get much of a power wheelie (throttle only) in first gear, despite the new 15 tooth sprocket. Even with that sprocket, it needs some throttle and clutch from a stop. I'm thinking the 15t was a good decision
The bike is way too small for me (for any lengthy riding). I hate the handlebars that I chose. The shifter needs adjusting down, the rear brake adjusting up. The brakes are already bedding in. The bike handles acceptably (from the short test ride)
(https://iili.io/20VUPa.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/20VUPa)
(https://iili.io/20VSMg.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/20VSMg)
3.7 miles on the first ride.
(https://iili.io/20Vkt1.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/20Vkt1)
The big issue now is that it no longer starts from the handle bar starter button. I had to jump B+ to the yellow/green wire on the starter relay.
So now I have to trace down and troubleshoot what I messed up!
Congrats on the first ride. :cheers:
I also went for a 15 tooth sprocket. Not to do wheelies, but to feel a little more "torque" at our high altitude. 16% less air density makes N/A vehicles feel spiritless.
Quote from: Sporty on September 28, 2020, 10:26:16 AM
The big issue now is that it no longer starts from the handle bar starter button. I had to jump B+ to the yellow/green wire on the starter relay.
So now I have to trace down and troubleshoot what I messed up!
I know the feeling. For the past few days I've been rewiring my bike and made quite a few changes to the loom to relocate the electrics under the seat. Now the taillight doesn't work, but the brake light does. Aaaarghhh! :mad:
Quote from: SK Racing on September 28, 2020, 10:34:02 AM
Congrats on the first ride. :cheers:
I also went for a 15 tooth sprocket. Not to do wheelies, but to feel a little more "torque" at our high altitude. 16% less air density makes N/A vehicles feel spiritless.
That's just my "power test". It's prob good that a new riders first bike doesn't power wheelie.
It's actually pretty snappy around 7k RPM
The K&N makes a lot of noise, more so than the Cobra F1s. It
sounds powerful :laugh:
More buffing...
These won't go on yet.. still have to sort the bike out a bit.
Scratched and abused.
(https://iili.io/20gfpe.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/20gfpe)
(https://iili.io/20gFY7.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/20gFY7)
This one had a rattle can repaint except for the decals.
(https://iili.io/20gKv9.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/20gKv9)
Using the small 3" buffer for this job. Turtle wax Clean cut first, followed by the Meguiars swirl remover.
(https://iili.io/20gBTu.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/20gBTu)
(https://iili.io/20gChb.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/20gChb)
(https://iili.io/20gnQj.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/20gnQj)
(https://iili.io/20gxCx.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/20gxCx)
After warming up the engine, the oil was drained and filter replaced.
The old oil had an odor of gasoline.
Oil filter inspection. Cut the end of the pleats with a razor knife or hack saw. (Don't cut into the inner metal tube.)
A section of the pleated media squeezed in the vise to get rid of excess oil.
(https://iili.io/2128vt.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2128vt)
Spread out the media and inspect.
(https://iili.io/212vaI.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/212vaI)
A fair amount of metal trash in the filter media.
(https://iili.io/212k3N.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/212k3N)
The trash is magnetic (steel or iron) Since the transmission, clutch, starter drive and engine share the same oil and filter, the steel could be from any of those components. My suspicion is transmission related since there are no unusual engine noises and the oil pressure light isn't on at hot idle.
(https://iili.io/212O4p.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/212O4p)
The steel (or iron) debris stuck onto a small pocket screwdriver magnet.
(https://iili.io/212SyX.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/212SyX)
I have no idea how old the oil and filter were, or how the bike was ridden before.
It will be interesting how the oil filter looks a the next change.
Anyone else think oil filter quality is important?
fwiw with a 14t sprocket and the suspension and riding position mods (which make a difference), my GS will barely pull a tiny wheelie in first pulling away from a stop at wot if you lean back just a little. It is extremely interactive at >50 mph though. I was initially on the fence about 14t until the 150/70 tire went on the rear which makes it basically perfect. gps tells me the speedo actually reads a bit slow with the 150, so that tire ups the gearing, I think it is similar to stock tire and a 15t.
Sluggishness under 5k rpm could be float height or maybe needle shimming. I wound up with two washers on mine to get it properly sorted.
such a great thread! Congrats on first ride! Milestone reached! :bstar: :bstar: :bstar:
Quote from: mr72 on September 29, 2020, 07:45:06 AM
fwiw with a 14t sprocket and the suspension and riding position mods (which make a difference), my GS will barely pull a tiny wheelie in first pulling away from a stop at wot if you lean back just a little. It is extremely interactive at >50 mph though. I was initially on the fence about 14t until the 150/70 tire went on the rear which makes it basically perfect. gps tells me the speedo actually reads a bit slow with the 150, so that tire ups the gearing, I think it is similar to stock tire and a 15t.
Sluggishness under 5k rpm could be float height or maybe needle shimming. I wound up with two washers on mine to get it properly sorted.
Thanks.
I've never ridden a good running GS500 to know what its like.
I jetted and set needles based on the "Jet thread" (40/140/one washer/ two turns with K&N/ Cobra slip-on) but it would be optimistic to expect to hit it on the money first time.
The vacuum petcock is leaking a little into the vacuum line. The kit just came in so it will be repaired and test ridden again.
oh I didn't know about the k&n. Sluggishness in mid-range might be normal.
Quote from: cbrfxr67 on September 29, 2020, 10:07:11 AM
such a great thread! Congrats on first ride! Milestone reached! :bstar: :bstar: :bstar:
Quote from: SK Racing on September 28, 2020, 10:24:50 AM
This is such a good thread. Don't know where you get the energy to do the work AND take photos.
I've been doing a bunch of work on my own bike, but took very few pics.
I can't wait for your next post. :thumb:
Thanks. It's been a lot of work. Way more than expected.
The photos are easy tho, snap a few with the iPhone as I'm working. Upload and a brief write up before bed or at a break. The updates have helped motivation to finish.
The forum resources and wiki are invaluable!
Last time I changed the oil and filter (and oil pan gasket and cleaned the screen) I installed one of those magnetic drain plugs. Dunno if that'd be of interest to you but I figured I'd mention it.
Tank looks GREAT and so do the tail plastics! I remember the first time I noticed the bit of blue metallic flake in the black paint... it's a nice touch IMO.
I was too busy to work on the bike last night, but did look at the wiring diagram. (For the No crank issue)
It looks as the starter relay pull in circuit is just the clutch and starter switch. It worked before messing with things, so it's time to back to were the work was done inside the headlight
The yellow/green connection for the clutch switch is sticking out as a place to check. If not the problem, the headlight wiring is a good place to make some meter tests.
(https://iili.io/2ExwTQ.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ExwTQ)
really interested to see how you do with that k&n. It was challenging for me, so be great to see you nail it with no problems!
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on September 29, 2020, 01:18:53 PM
Last time I changed the oil and filter (and oil pan gasket and cleaned the screen) I installed one of those magnetic drain plugs. Dunno if that'd be of interest to you but I figured I'd mention it.
Definitely for a bike with a common crankcase.
Where did you get the magnetic plug?
That was my thinking too.
I got mine from here: https://drainplugmagnets.com/
There's some pics of it and what comes with it about halfway down this page of my thread:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php/topic,70880.340.html
I think you can get one for much cheaper on eBay or Amazon now. IIRC when I checked those places back then, I didn't find any.
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on September 30, 2020, 11:43:05 AM
That was my thinking too.
I got mine from here: https://drainplugmagnets.com/
There's some pics of it and what comes with it about halfway down this page of my thread:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php/topic,70880.340.html
I think you can get one for much cheaper on eBay or Amazon now. IIRC when I checked those places back then, I didn't find any.
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on August 08, 2017, 11:53:54 PM
Many thanks for that Pete! I do appreciate you taking the time :-*
Got the drain plug in the mail. Came with a few extras:
(http://i.imgur.com/nifvU47l.jpg)
Here's the actual plug with a non-crush washer (unlike the OEM one) ... I didn't know it was gonna be blue. No worries cuz you won't see it but that's something I'm sure other people might like to know :dunno_black: But holy wow the magnet is super strong!!!
(http://i.imgur.com/y64gPMrl.jpg)
Does it read 14 X 1.25 thread?
According to the Dimple site where the GS500 is listed, yes, it says 14 x 1.25.
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on September 30, 2020, 03:20:34 PM
According to the Dimple site where the GS500 is listed, yes, it says 14 x 1.25.
Thanks! That's a common size and should be easy to find before the next oil change.
The no start /no crank issue diagnosed.
(https://iili.io/2ExwTQ.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ExwTQ)
From the wiring diagram, the yellow/green wires loop through the switches to the starter relay.
The bike had started fine from the button when brought home. The headlight bucket was a rats nest of wiring and rusty.
The bucket was removed and painted, the wiring reconnected and neatened up. It was apart for near two months, I didn't exactly remember if wires were not connected, or if the clutch had to be pulled to start.
(I had it connected per the wiring diagram, with all the yellow/green wires connected.)
The clutch switch is open... never makes contact. Those wires are circled in blue.
Connecting the wires circled in red (as shown in this photo) bypasses the clutch switch and allows the bike to crank from the start switch.
It must of been connected like this before.
(https://iili.io/2Ee8a1.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2Ee8a1)
Unscrewing the switch from the clutch lever perch reveals two contacts.
(https://iili.io/2Eev3P.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2Eev3P)
Inside the perch is also this slider with a piece of copper to make the connection.
(https://iili.io/2EeOGV.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2EeOGV)
The plastic nub that engages the clutch lever is broken so it never slides to make the connection.
(https://iili.io/2Eee6B.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2Eee6B)
For an experienced rider, id probably leave it bypassed. For a new rider, it might save a mishap, so it's time to spend some money :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:.
(https://iili.io/2E6TaR.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2E6TaR)
CAreful with that little fooker. When I took a wee dump a few months back my clutch lever broke and of course broke that piece too. I replaced the lever and the plastic nub piece.
Thinking all was well I pulled the lever and broke the plastic piece again. soac :hithead: I still haven't fixed it. Prob bypass it now that you so clearly posted a reminder :thumb:
The GS500E rehash is almost done.
Left to do is:
Replace the piece for the clutch lever switch
Repair/Rebuild the vacuum petcock
Reinstall the plastic side covers.
Mount the mirrors.
If the motorcycle doesn't get plates soon, I won't be able to do any tuning this year.
No GS work last night , maybe none tonight...
Have to get these completed.
(https://iili.io/2MXi67.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2MXi67)
Decided to knock off a couple of quick things before supper.
Emgo replacement mirrors, supposed to be OEM copies.
(https://iili.io/2MSoog.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2MSoog)
Here is my bike,... and here are my mirrors :icon_lol: :icon_lol: :icon_lol:
(https://iili.io/2MSYNt.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2MSYNt)
This black stuff was all over, on the tank and the frame around the tank. With the use of "Goo Gone" it's coming off.
I think Show Biz nailed it.... adhesive residue from tape that was used to hold on failing tank trim,
(https://iili.io/2MSASp.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2MSASp)
The info tag is in sad shape, scraped and peeling. The numbers match the frame stamp, no issue there. I wanted to stabilize and preserve what was left.
(https://iili.io/2MS5HN.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2MS5HN)
Commercial grade clear vinyl laminate. The type used for vinyl signs and lettering.
(https://iili.io/2MS7RI.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2MS7RI)
Trimmed the peeling bits off and then applied the vinyl... Can't expect too much, but it's a little better.
(https://iili.io/2MSaDX.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2MSaDX)
Side panel tab repair. (RH side)
The lower center tab was broken off and long gone. The "cushion" in the frame, that it fits into, was also missing.
A normal rubber grommet fit into the slot, but it takes the oval shape.
(https://iili.io/2WbhVj.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2WbhVj)
Something had to be improvised. After considering different options, an automotive trim retainer button seemed viable.
(https://iili.io/2WbVDu.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2WbVDu)
Drilled the center, then cut a slot with the Dremel tool, trying to make a keyhole shaped slot.
(https://iili.io/2WbXob.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2WbXob)
(https://iili.io/2WbMNe.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2WbMNe)
The webbing in the middle cut away just enough for the button head to fit. The web will hold it in place, especially when the panel is pushed on
(https://iili.io/2Wb4WJ.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2Wb4WJ)
Button slipped into place with a nice snug fit.
(https://iili.io/2WbGR9.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2WbGR9)
Making more "custom" spacers
(https://iili.io/2X99sa.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2X99sa)
(https://iili.io/2WypzF.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2WypzF)
(https://iili.io/2Wybb1.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2Wybb1)
The LH panel had all its tabs. It wasn't until making spacers, that I noticed the poor condition of the eye which holds the "cushion", spacer and bolt to the frame.
(https://iili.io/2WyyWg.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2WyyWg)
"A stitch in time saves nine"
Sanded to rough up, then coated with plastic welder epoxy on both sides.
(https://iili.io/2X9JqJ.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2X9JqJ)
(https://iili.io/2X57yB.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2X57yB)
such good stuff here,... :bowdown:
FYI
I stopped by the local dealer and ordered the contact holder for the clutch switch.
As you can see, they charge in excess of list price. It's not a lot of money and it wasn't worth ordering online and paying shipping.
It's just the point, the dealer is not bound by list price... it's worth checking as it could really add up on larger purchases.
(https://iili.io/2hEANf.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2hEANf)
(https://iili.io/2E6TaR.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/)
The vacuum petcock on the frame was weeping gas. Not dripping, but wet around the the sides and the selector. There was old stale gas in the vacuum line when the carburetors were removed.
I figured the diaphragm and o-rings were gone and was hopeful some of this kit would fit, but it did not.
(https://iili.io/2rOBvS.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2rOBvS)
The selector o-ring was in very bad shape with many cracks. Found a viton o-ring that was a little thicker, but seemed to fit ok.
(https://iili.io/2rOxje.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2rOxje)
Not shown is the diaphragm. It didn't seem to have any pinholes when held up to a light bulb. The edge of it was hard and deteriorating. The paper gasket was bad.
(https://iili.io/2rOou9.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2rOou9)
Cleaned it well. There was stringy black debris and crust clogging it up.
To help the edge of the diaphragm seal, Some old school permatex gasket paste was applied in the groove where the edge of the diaphragm sits. The permatex isn't affected by gasoline. It's messy stuff though.
(https://iili.io/2rOzZu.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2rOzZu)
Diaphragm set into place.
(https://iili.io/2rOTCb.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2rOTCb)
Cut a new gasket from gasket paper.
(https://iili.io/24CSyu.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/24CSyu)
(https://iili.io/2rOf3l.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2rOf3l)
(https://iili.io/2rOqa2.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2rOqa2)
Vacuum tested with a hand pump and a gauge. It works and doesn't seem to leak.
(https://iili.io/2rOuGj.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2rOuGj)
Hopefully it's good enough for a while
(https://iili.io/2rOY8B.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2rOY8B)
(https://iili.io/2rO53Q.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2rO53Q)
(https://iili.io/2rO7aV.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2rO7aV)
One thing that seems odd. This nipple/spigot for the reserve hose, just sits into the petcock body. It's relying on the taper to seal. It seems that it should have an additional clip or something to have positive retention.
Is it missing something?
(https://iili.io/24CyZv.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/24CyZv)
I've seen that kind of thing before. A sharp blow with a rubber mallet worked for me in the past and it didn't leak.
The clutch switch contact holder came in. While at the Suzuki dealer, I picked up some nice soft Tygon fuel line, and will replace the lines when the petcock goes back on.
(https://iili.io/267VV9.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/267VV9)
(https://iili.io/267Mo7.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/267Mo7)
In keeping with this project, no part that is touched, is complete.
The seat is missing a "cushion. Wished that I'd noticed it before, but ordered one while at the dealer.
(https://iili.io/267EtS.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/267EtS)
(https://iili.io/2671N2.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2671N2)
Nice! :thumb:
Wish I could walk into a store and buy stuff like this. But alas... I'm not so lucky. Living in Africa has it's drawbacks. :icon_rolleyes:
(https://iili.io/267VV9.jpg)
There are other perks, though. To see wild animals in their natural habitat is only a few hours away. Spent the past week in such a place to unwind a bit.
(https://i.imgur.com/caXJq53.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YCmiBUE.jpg)
Quote from: SK Racing on October 10, 2020, 05:44:07 AM
I've seen that kind of thing before. A sharp blow with a rubber mallet worked for me in the past and it didn't leak.
I've looked at a few photos since posting that ... and yeah, there is no additional retention clip.
Rehashed petcock re-installed. The bike had 1/4" (6.5mm) hose stretched over the fittings.
(https://iili.io/26g1ef.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/26g1ef)
I wasn't real happy with that and put some nice 5/16" (8mm) Tygon fuel hose on it this time.
(https://iili.io/26gEb4.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/26gEb4)
The clutch switch is back together with the new contact installed in the clutch lever perch. The wires in the headlight bucket reconnected, the starter is working properly.
Did a cold start and warm up, then rode it around the yard a bit. Riding like that, it sounds like a little tractor. It's seems to be running better at lower RPM but will need a little tuning. Maybe just the low speed mixture screw, it's lean off idle.
Lowered the shifter a notch. Having the shifter level with the foot peg, just seems awkward to shift. Maybe level with the peg is right for someone with shorter legs and smaller feet?
(https://iili.io/2Z36dB.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2Z36dB)
It's just about done. The bike is certainly ready for state inspection and riding.
It needs a filler panel over the taillight.
One small rubber cushion for under the seat (on order).
Two little foam blocks for under the tank (will scrounge/substitute).
Some fresh photos... All back together
(https://iili.io/2Z3pgp.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2Z3pgp)
(https://iili.io/2ZFuIe.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ZFuIe)
(https://iili.io/2Z3m1R.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2Z3m1R)
(https://iili.io/2ZF9dN.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ZF9dN)
(https://iili.io/2ZKR9I.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ZKR9I)
Looks great. Well done. That is one lucky family member to have you around.
Btw, why are the front indicators on and not the rear?
Quote from: SK Racing on October 12, 2020, 10:44:32 PM
Looks great. Well done. That is one lucky family member to have you around.
N
Btw, why are the front indicators on and not the rear?
Thanks!
They've been converted to dual brightness LED, running light and turn indicator/signal
From Post # 65
(https://iili.io/2ft7WJ.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ft7WJ)
Oh, yeah. I remember now you mentioned that. Good idea for better visibility. :thumb:
This is about the easiest repair so far. The seat mount cushion arrived. A little soap and it just pops in. Still available and still "made in Japan "
(https://iili.io/267EtS.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/267EtS)
(https://iili.io/3cp5Vs.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/3cp5Vs)
(https://iili.io/3cpuDX.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/3cpuDX)
(https://iili.io/3cpRxn.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/3cpRxn)
So far nobody has come forward with a rear frame cover. I'm just not spending $50 for a new one. It's just a small piece of plastic.
The idea here is to make one out of some aluminum sheet metal.
I cut some narrow strips and and am experimenting with measurements and bends. The narrow strip is easier to work with.
Here is the first effort. The bends use up length and it's too short.
Once the length and bends are figured, I'll try a full width piece.
(https://iili.io/3cp7iG.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/3cp7iG)
(https://iili.io/3cpaff.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/3cpaff)
(https://iili.io/3cpcl4.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/3cpcl4)
(https://iili.io/3cpN0x.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/3cpN0x)
I'd like to get that rear frame cover piece done before winterizing the bike, but do have to pay the bills.
New guides installed and valve seats cut. (Three angle)
(https://iili.io/31LYbe.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/31LYbe)
(https://iili.io/31LRJS.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/31LRJS)
(https://iili.io/31Lug2.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/31Lug2)
Looks like the work of an expert. :thumb:
What is the extra hole on the side for? Spark plug? Glow plug?
In a past life I've done the ports and valves/seats of my car engine (not three angle, though). It gave a few free extra horses and I wonder if it'll be a worthwhile exercise doing it on a GS500.
Lat week I had to fork out a small fortune to have this fixed. (note the two spark plug holes)
(https://i.imgur.com/vpIUoIn.jpg)
Quote from: SK Racing on October 20, 2020, 07:40:21 AM
Looks like the work of an expert. :thumb:
What is the extra hole on the side for? Spark plug? Glow plug?
In a past life I've done the ports and valves/seats of my car engine (not three angle, though). It gave a few free extra horses and I wonder if it'll be a worthwhile exercise doing it on a GS500.
Lat week I had to fork out a small fortune to have this fixed. (note the two spark plug holes)
(https://i.imgur.com/vpIUoIn.jpg)
What head is that? I don't see four valve heads with two plugs.
The hole in the photo I posted is for an injector. Gasoline Direct Injection has become fairly common In the last ten years or so.
As far as porting the GS500, I'm sure you can pick it up some. It's really not bad tho, it's half a GS1000e
GS1000e was rated around 90 HP.
The GS500 is rated at 51 HP.
Quote from: Sporty on October 20, 2020, 11:58:21 AM
What head is that? I don't see four valve heads with two plugs.
Alfa Romeo Twin Spark 2.0
Quote
The hole in the photo I posted is for an injector. Gasoline Direct Injection has become fairly common In the last ten years or so.
I didn't know that. ???
Quote
As far as porting the GS500, I'm sure you can pick it up some. It's really not bad tho, it's half a GS1000e
GS1000e was rated around 90 HP.
The GS500 is rated at 51 HP.
That is already more than half of the liter bike. I read that without water cooling it's not easy to increase the power of a bike engine.
Quote from: SK Racing on October 20, 2020, 01:17:55 PM
That is already more than half of the liter bike. I read that without water cooling it's not easy to increase the power of a bike engine.
You can increase the power dramatically. The cooling is a question of reliability. Do you want the power 1/4 mile at a time, or sustained high power output?
Suzuki pro-stock engine is based on the the GS1150. It's bored and stroked to 1850 cc and it's still a 2 valve head and air cooled. It makes 370 HP on race gas.
That would be 100 HP out of 500cc. It would cost a lot to to build and be very unpleasant to ride.
The port development is there, camshaft profiles available. Plenty of people know how to make big power from a 2 valve Suzuki. However, power gains are usually a trade off. The power band is shifted up in RPM and driveabillity suffers.
A good carefull port job that kept airspeed up, more compression, a bit more cam (or different approach to the cam design) might make a workable street bike.
This may be an unfair question, but what modifications would you recommend for a bit of an increase in power for the standard GS500 engine? I've lost about 16% power due to the altitude where I live (1300m). It would be nice to get some of it back.
I've dumped the standard airbox and installed K&N style pod filters and fitted a slip-on muffler together with the suggested jet changes. The engine feels more lively and runs fine, so the jets seem to be OK.
Other than those changes, what can one do to get a little more power?
Quote from: SK Racing on October 21, 2020, 02:05:54 PM
This may be an unfair question, but what modifications would you recommend for a bit of an increase in power for the standard GS500 engine? I've lost about 16% power due to the altitude where I live (1300m). It would be nice to get some of it back.
I've dumped the standard airbox and installed K&N style pod filters and fitted a slip-on muffler together with the suggested jet changes. The engine feels more lively and runs fine, so the jets seem to be OK.
Other than those changes, what can one do to get a little more power?
Disclaimer: I'm not a motorcycle mechanic and only work on my own bikes. The occasional motorcycle machining I do is a favor, not my specialty. I have never modified a Suzuki engine.
In general, the simplest compensation for altitude (less dense air) is more compression. If you can go up one point, from 9:1 to 10:1 compression, that would be an improvement.
To get there you have a few options, make the chamber smaller, by milling the head or welding.
Installing domed pistons and/ oversized pistons with domes.
Milling is cheapest and easiest, but with overhead cam engines and significant milling, you usually have to readjust cam timing and be mindful of chain slack.
Advancing the cam 2* and one point of compression should be noticeable.
I'm sure you can make more gains adding porting and camshafts with increased compression. Those mods typically move the powerband up in RPM.
Sporty, thanks for taking the time to answer.
I also read up a bit more on raising the compression ratio. Something that stood out was "Higher compression makes more power anywhere in the RPM band". That is good news, because I'd hate to have less low-end torque. A wild cam is not an option anymore. I've had my fair share of those in my younger days.
A rough calculation shows that the cylinder block needs to be shaved 0.63mm to go to 10:1 static compression (from the standard 9:1). With the wide squish areas on the GS500 engine, skimming the head is probably not an option. Another idea of course is to use a thinner head gasket. But I'm not sure if that is available.
Found a picture of a GS500 cyl head on GSTwins. Note wide squish areas. Can't make out if the there is a step down to the squish band or not.
(https://i.imgur.com/cBsAMKO.jpg)
One website mentions 3% torque gain with one point CR increase. So, if stock power is 51hp, then I'm currently getting approx. 43hp with 16% less dense air at my altitude. Add 3% for one point CR increase and I'm at 44hp. That's hardly worth all the work. My best option would be to move to a coastal town or get a bigger bike! :icon_rolleyes:
But with all the work I'm putting into my project bike, I think I'll just keep the engine stock and enjoy it for what it is. :thumb:
PS: MY nickname SK Racing has nothing to do with motorcycle racing. Never been on a track with a motorcycle. I'm too shyte scared for that.
There is no issue milling a head with quench bands.
I do it all the time.
On the RH side in your photo, it looks flat from gasket to the chamber. Even if there was a step, as long a the piston isn't above the deck, no problem.
Depending on the chamber shape, you won't reduce volume as much as milling the block.
You can only deck the block so much because you need to maintain mimimum quench distance.(piston to head) With an all Aluminum engine thats about .030" or .76 mm minimum safe distance. .030"-.040" is ideal IMO.
So perfection would be to mill the block for optimum quench and the head to desired compression ratio.
Ive read there is safely .050" room for total milling head and block on a typical GS500.
The easier is to just mill the head and advance the cam, especially the intake cam. Close the intake valve sooner to increase dynamic compression.
All said, the bike is what it is. I probably wouldn't take apart a perfectly good running engine for that work. If it needed a freshen up (top end overhaul) then I would mill it and do a conservative/ mild port job.
Quote from: Sporty on October 22, 2020, 09:43:09 AM
All said, the bike is what it is. I probably wouldn't take apart a perfectly good running engine for that work. If it needed a freshen up (top end overhaul) then I would mill it and do a conservative/ mild port job.
My sentiments exactly. Thanks for confirming.
Here is the first attempt at making a rear frame cover panel from .040" thick aluminum sheet metal.
The little tabs that go into the side covers complicated it. They aren't supposed to be even with the edge as I made it. They are inset a little bit. An additional tight bend, folding the tab flat against the panel, then back to fit the slot might be better.
(https://iili.io/3WbY3F.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/3WbY3F)
(https://iili.io/3WblyJ.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/3WblyJ)
What are the fasteners like? Sheet metal screws? Metric machine screws do not fit the clip nuts.
(https://iili.io/3WbaYg.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/3WbaYg)
The fit isn't too bad. With a more practice, a better result is likely. I'll paint it and see if this one looks passable.
(https://iili.io/3Wbcva.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/3Wbcva)
(https://iili.io/3Wb541.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/3Wb541)
I've replaced many of the fasteners on my bike with stainless bits so I'm not sure what was originally there... but that center panel on my bike is held in place by two round head allen bolts and nylon lock nuts.
Bike is looking great btw Sporty :cheers:
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on October 24, 2020, 11:53:32 PM
I've replaced many of the fasteners on my bike with stainless bits so I'm not sure what was originally there... but that center panel on my bike is held in place by two round head allen bolts and nylon lock nuts.
Bike is looking great btw Sporty :cheers:
Thanks ShowBiz!
Looking at the drawing again, it sort of looks that #14 might be a sheet metal screw..
The #16 clip nuts aren't accepting machine screws.
(https://iili.io/3h8Bet.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/)
(https://iili.io/3h8q7I.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/3h8q7I)
I had to look up if there are metric sheet metal screws. (and of course there are) I may have some of these around (from cars)
(https://iili.io/3h8CmX.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/3h8CmX)
The #15 washers as they list it, might actually be rubber from this sample photo.
(https://iili.io/2ZyECl.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/2ZyECl)
Prepped and Painted the cover last night.... today it's looking good enough to use... I'll live with a little gap at the sides in the rear.
(https://iili.io/3hbJQR.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/3hbJQR)
(https://iili.io/3hbHhv.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/3hbHhv)
(https://iili.io/3hbuG2.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/3hbuG2)
That looks very nice!! I agree about those #15's.
I saw that the rear panel usually has a Suzuki decal. Suzuki doesn't offer it, and I didn't find it on eBay or etsy ... close, but either not the correct color or the correct size.
This "good enough" decal was made with a P-Touch label maker.
It's not the same font Suzuki uses, but the closest the label maker has.
Wet sanded the black, applied the Suzuki decal, then sprayed three coats of clear in the Aldi cardboard spray booth 8)
(no laquer was applied, just using the can to hold the panel)
(https://iili.io/3kmaON.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/3kmaON)
Trying to wrap it up before winterizing.
Found two used metric sheet metal screws. Probably from a GM car. Made some crude rubber washers and cut the screws down a bit.
The end result isn't too bad. At least the bike looks complete and I have some closure on the project.
(https://iili.io/FJMiuf.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/FJMiuf)
(https://iili.io/FJXOjj.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/FJXOjj)
(https://iili.io/FJM4vs.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/FJM4vs)
(https://iili.io/FJM6yG.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/FJM6yG)
Delivery today!
Found a set of Racetech Springs in .80 kg at a good price!
I still have to winterize the bike and will swap the springs and then get it ready for storage.
(https://iili.io/FX1IgS.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/FX1IgS)
I went down to the barn to winterize the motorcycles.
After taking off the seat to remove the battery, it's apparent that the mice work fast. They're already filling up the tool kit compartment!
(https://iili.io/KkZ8W7.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/KkZ8W7)
I had drained the float bowls after I ran it last, but it seems the petcock is letting some gas through. Not only that, there was some water in the bowls :mad: I've no idea how there could be water... unless it's the ethanol in the gasoline. So I removed the tank and drained it, then drained all the fuel lines. Sprayed some WD40 into the bowls and let it drain back out. Next is rust prevention oil and a bag!
BTW, I found out the identity of foreign object that was in the fuel tank when we bought the bike. Its this fuel stabilizer filter. I was over at my riding buddies shop and he had a ten pack of the things. They hang into the fuel tank on a very thin string. I have a couple and might try them in other fuel tanks. (The GS500E tank is drained and rust preventer put in)
(https://iili.io/KkZOOl.md.jpg) (https://freeimage.host/i/KkZOOl)