Hello GS500 community, want to start a single thread to log my GS500 project.
Recently purchased a 2005 GS500 with 879 miles on it. Right now it doesn't run because the battery is dead but don't plan to ride this until 2022.
Here are some pictures of the bike!
(https://i.imgur.com/xxWHxCZm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JbVrf0Wm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RwDmXN0m.jpg)
So far I know it needs a new battery and the gas cover needs to be replaced. Do you guys have any recommendations?
I will also need to unlower the bike (https://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=73761.0)
After this is done I would imagine the regular items needs to be done. Replace all fluids, change the oil, hopefully the carbs will works and will not require cleaning (wishful thinking probably)
Once I get the bike running, perhaps slap on stainless steel brake lines and a new set of tires.
Any and all feedback are greatly appreciated. It' been years since I last worked on a GS500.
Thank you.
Nice, congratulations, it looks minty. Go slow and take your time. Will probably have to clean the carbs,but I'd change the fluids, put some oil in the cylinders, get the engine moving (turn rear wheel while in gear with the plugs out) and make sure some oil is circulating before trying to starting up. First get it going and then evaluate what needs to be done. Certainly new tyres.
Anything rubber on that bike is at least 16 years old now so be prepared to replace fuel lines, intake boots and o-rings, and all rubber carb internals. Brake lines are probably functional but I would consider replacing them after you know the bike is running. You may also want to rebuild the brake calipers at that point.
Did the previous owner drain the carbs and gas tank before letting it sit for so long?
Not to my understanding. Yea, I agree swapping out pretty much all the rubber bits is a good idea.
Where is a good place to buy replacement parts?
Are you in the uuunited States?
Ron Ayers was great for me. Avoid Ebay.
Yes! I'm on the west coast.
Will check Ron Ayers out. Thank you!
Most places are going to be selling OEM Suzuki parts from the same warehouse for the same price. I have also used BikeBandit.com and Partzilla.com
Watch out for the part availability when ordering it. Because of the Covid supply chain backlog, a lot of OEM parts are on extended backorder. I recently ordered a Suzuki gasket that had a 200 day lead time. Ended up buying an aftermarket gasket off eBay.
ebay can be good for low mileage used hard parts for far less than OEM prices, but I agree that you should avoid them for rubber bits whenever possible. That said, sometimes a little bike dealer will have a NOS item listed on ebay that is out of production or backordered at the large parts houses.
Also, its generally better to buy genuine Mikuni/Suzuki carb parts vs a "rebuild kit." A lot of times the jets and gaskets in the rebuild kits are lower quality. Carb rebuilding is already difficult enough without having to trace an issue to something like a weak spring in an aftermarket float needle. For carb parts I recomend JetsRUs.com and look for the Genuine Mikuni stuff. The cheaper parts are usually K&L brand which is okay, but I've had issues with some of their parts not being identical to OEM.
Quote from: Bluesmudge on September 14, 2021, 09:43:17 AM
Most places are going to be selling OEM Suzuki parts from the same warehouse for the same price. I have also used BikeBandit.com and Partzilla.com
Watch out for the part availability when ordering it. Because of the Covid supply chain backlog, a lot of OEM parts are on extended backorder. I recently ordered a Suzuki gasket that had a 200 day lead time. Ended up buying an aftermarket gasket off eBay.
ebay can be good for low mileage used hard parts for far less than OEM prices, but I agree that you should avoid them for rubber bits whenever possible. That said, sometimes a little bike dealer will have a NOS item listed on ebay that is out of production or backordered at the large parts houses.
Also, its generally better to buy genuine Mikuni/Suzuki carb parts vs a "rebuild kit." A lot of times the jets and gaskets in the rebuild kits are lower quality. Carb rebuilding is already difficult enough without having to trace an issue to something like a weak spring in an aftermarket float needle. For carb parts I recomend JetsRUs.com and look for the Genuine Mikuni stuff. The cheaper parts are usually K&L brand which is okay, but I've had issues with some of their parts not being identical to OEM.
Thank you for the tips. Will def keep you and everyone posted on this restoration.
Hello z315 :)
Depending on how and where it was stored you may not need to replace every o-ring etc. I bought a similar 2005 last year with just 480kms (under 300 miles).
It was stored in a heated shop and so far I haven't had any problems with leaking carbs, etc. I'm thinking that Mikuni was probably using nitrile o-rings and gaskets
by the 2000's, to be compatible with the ethanol blended fuels we have these days, and they are much more durable.
I didn't even clean my carbs. Modern fuels are pretty stable. I use Shell V-power with no ethanol. The stuff is clear as water and smells more like
solvent than gasoline. Back in the day, if you stored the bike with fuel in the bowls it would evaporate and leave orange tar/scum at the bottom, which
would dissolve in the fresh gas and break up into chunks which could clog up the pilot jets and maybe even the mains.
That being said, I would not even open the carbs to look unless I had a new set of bowl gaskets on hand, as the old ones will be flattened and might not
seal up a 2nd time.
My advice (pass the salt!)
First, drain the tank to get rid of any stale gas, then get a flashlight and inspect the inside of the tank for rust. If it looks ok add about a gallon of fresh
premium. Set the petcock to prime and let it sit, check for leaks at the carbs. If nothing leaks, your floats (needle and seat valve) are probably ok. Using the drain screws
on the sides of the float bowls drain a pint or so fuel from each carb into a clean, clear glass jar: check for crud/discoloration. It you don't see any solids you are probably fine.
Next, pull the plugs and spray a good squirt of WD40 into each cylinder (not too much, about 3 seconds worth) and let sit (open) for an hour. I recommend WD40 instead of oil, as
it will burn away very quickly and not foul up your plugs as easily. Next you can rotate the engine manually a few cycles with the plugs still out, and then using the starter
for a few seconds to blast out any left over WD. Replace the plugs/wires, add some more fuel if you need it and start 'er up.
Because it's an '05 you may notice that once fully warmed up after riding, the bike will make a knocking sound at idle that disappears at higher rpm. This is called by various names
"cam-knock", "walking-cam-knock" etc. The main thing to remember here is that it is very common for the 04/05 models and is not the result of damage, nor is it damaging to your engine.
(I think this is why you and I both "scored" ultra-low-mile 15/16 year old bikes.) But you can cross that bridge when you come to it.
Cheers.
Quote from: chris900f on September 14, 2021, 06:49:31 PM
Hello z315 :)
Depending on how and where it was stored you may not need to replace every o-ring etc. I bought a similar 2005 last year with just 480kms (under 300 miles).
It was stored in a heated shop and so far I haven't had any problems with leaking carbs, etc. I'm thinking that Mikuni was probably using nitrile o-rings and gaskets
by the 2000's, to be compatible with the ethanol blended fuels we have these days, and they are much more durable.
I didn't even clean my carbs. Modern fuels are pretty stable. I use Shell V-power with no ethanol. The stuff is clear as water and smells more like
solvent than gasoline. Back in the day, if you stored the bike with fuel in the bowls it would evaporate and leave orange tar/scum at the bottom, which
would dissolve in the fresh gas and break up into chunks which could clog up the pilot jets and maybe even the mains.
That being said, I would not even open the carbs to look unless I had a new set of bowl gaskets on hand, as the old ones will be flattened and might not
seal up a 2nd time.
My advice (pass the salt!)
First, drain the tank to get rid of any stale gas, then get a flashlight and inspect the inside of the tank for rust. If it looks ok add about a gallon of fresh
premium. Set the petcock to prime and let it sit, check for leaks at the carbs. If nothing leaks, your floats (needle and seat valve) are probably ok. Using the drain screws
on the sides of the float bowls drain a pint or so fuel from each carb into a clean, clear glass jar: check for crud/discoloration. It you don't see any solids you are probably fine.
Next, pull the plugs and spray a good squirt of WD40 into each cylinder (not too much, about 3 seconds worth) and let sit (open) for an hour. I recommend WD40 instead of oil, as
it will burn away very quickly and not foul up your plugs as easily. Next you can rotate the engine manually a few cycles with the plugs still out, and then using the starter
for a few seconds to blast out any left over WD. Replace the plugs/wires, add some more fuel if you need it and start 'er up.
Because it's an '05 you may notice that once fully warmed up after riding, the bike will make a knocking sound at idle that disappears at higher rpm. This is called by various names
"cam-knock", "walking-cam-knock" etc. The main thing to remember here is that it is very common for the 04/05 models and is not the result of damage, nor is it damaging to your engine.
(I think this is why you and I both "scored" ultra-low-mile 15/16 year old bikes.) But you can cross that bridge when you come to it.
Cheers.
Wonderful advice. Thank you! The bike was kept in a garage and under a cover. The bike is in California so things SHOULD be ok. But will start with the simple stuff as you suggested before I start tearing stuff down. Will keep you guys posted! hopefully I'll have some time to work on it this weekend.
Enjoy!!!!
California eh? damn I'm a little jealous :laugh:. Today topped out at about 60F degrees here in frosty Alberta, I might be able to squeeze
one more month out of the season. Anyhow that's good news, give us some more info/pics when you get a chance. :cheers:
Also, I managed to get a hold of a set of NOS revised camshafts that they used on the 2006+ bikes. The install is not that difficult and it
completely eliminates the walking-cam noise; so it's definitely a fixable issue. I got pretty lucky finding NOS cams that came as kits, complete
with the special wave washers (from a seller in Israel no less). But, if your bike has the issue, a low-mile used set from a 2006+ bike would be
a great upgrade and really worth it for what is basically a brand-new old bike.
Quote from: chris900f on September 16, 2021, 12:57:58 AM
California eh? damn I'm a little jealous :laugh:. Today topped out at about 60F degrees here in frosty Alberta, I might be able to squeeze
one more month out of the season. Anyhow that's good news, give us some more info/pics when you get a chance. :cheers:
Also, I managed to get a hold of a set of NOS revised camshafts that they used on the 2006+ bikes. The install is not that difficult and it
completely eliminates the walking-cam noise; so it's definitely a fixable issue. I got pretty lucky finding NOS cams that came as kits, complete
with the special wave washers (from a seller in Israel no less). But, if your bike has the issue, a low-mile used set from a 2006+ bike would be
a great upgrade and really worth it for what is basically a brand-new old bike.
Ah Thank you for the pro tips. Will def take pictures of my wrenching adventures! hopefully I'll have some time this weekend!
Updates:
Had a little bit of time working on the bike today- boy it's a task.
Pictures and questions:
1. As per a thread I started earlier- I'm trying to remove the dog bones to factory. I can remove the bottom bolts just fine but the top bolt just spins. I am having trouble securing a wrench on the cap as a brace due to the limited space. Any suggestions on how to do that will be greatly appreciated.
2. Gas Cap is stuck and won't open. The strange part was that I was able to open it a few weeks ago but now it turns 3/4 but not all the way for the cap to open. There's some old fuel is there that I'm trying to get out.
I can't seem to get anything in there aside a 17mm wrench, but I have no way of bracing it against anything else.
(http://i.imgur.com/KD0jNn1h.jpg) (https://imgur.com/KD0jNn1)
I can get a breaker bar on the bolt head but it just spins the bolt.
(http://i.imgur.com/J4FPraxh.jpg) (https://imgur.com/J4FPrax)
Ripped Hoses : (
(https://i.imgur.com/pEpTNCZh.jpg)
Push down on the petrol cap when trying to turn the key.
What are you trying to take apart ? The linkage bolts ?
The top shock bolt - isn't there a access hole in the frame with a plastic cap over it ? I dont see it in your pic. Anyway that's there for you to stick the socket through with extension etc.
Put a 2X4 under the center stand and undo the top shock bolt.
The rear wheel will drop and that linkage bolts will get more accessible.
Its been a few yrs since I took the most recent one apart - but it is not that hard. You're missing something TBH.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: The Buddha on September 27, 2021, 02:55:20 AM
What are you trying to take apart ? The linkage bolts ?
The top shock bolt - isn't there a access hole in the frame with a plastic cap over it ? I dont see it in your pic. Anyway that's there for you to stick the socket through with extension etc.
Put a 2X4 under the center stand and undo the top shock bolt.
The rear wheel will drop and that linkage bolts will get more accessible.
Its been a few yrs since I took the most recent one apart - but it is not that hard. You're missing something TBH.
Cool.
Buddha.
Hey Buddha, appreciate your response as always. Yes- I'm trying to remove the dog bones and get the bike back to stock height. The picture of the bolt is where the top of the dog bone link.
The top shock bolt - isn't there a access hole in the frame with a plastic cap over it ? I dont see it in your pic. Anyway that's there for you to stick the socket through with extension etc. that did not even came into my mind. will attempt that in a bit.
but it is not that hard. You're missing something TBH. I don't doubt that at all. there's not much going on up in there. :icon_sad:
Yea with these shock or linkage/dog bone swap jobs - you really gotta get the rear wheel hanging down by liberating that top shock bolt.
Its always easier to get the rear wheel back into place that way.
BTW 89 frames didn't have that hole to get the socket on - didn't matter we still managed with 2 crescent wrenches.
Cool.
Buddha.
Love to see a gs come back to life!
(https://th.bing.com/th/id/R.374b6b5729ff146c9420412b1498e793?rik=sWHdfiDWlB14lw&pid=ImgRaw&r=0)
Take a look at my post about replacing the rear shock. There is a lot of overlap with swapping-out the dog bones.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=73684.0
Update:
Thank you for everyone's advice regarding the bolt. I was finally able to get the top of the dog bone removed. Had to get another pair of hands to hold the bolt in place with a wrench + metal tubing for torque and a breaker bar on the other to get that top dog bog off.
Yes- I did remove the top shock bolt (which is much easier in comparison).
What I need to do now is to buy a stock bolt because now the bolt without the dog bones are too long. What is the main for that bolt in particular?
Gas Tank.
I did my best to try to open the gas cap but no luck. I tired several tricks that I found on the internet but it did not work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZHeF1aoKQKo
After spending the better part of today trying to remove the cap.- I'll need to drill the cap.
I did notice quite a bit of stuff in the gas tank, and will need to do some cleaning before adding fresh fuel.
(https://i.imgur.com/OOumdQNh.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/LJucXxhh.jpg) (https://imgur.com/LJucXxh)
see some photos.
Rusty a$$ tank.
Cool.
Buddha.
Will do the good old vinegar and bolts trick to see if i can clean out the rust this weekend.
Using this video as a guide for anyone interested.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XzzeNdjPUS4
It sounds like you have done the vinegar and bolts trick before, but my tip is to count how many pieces of hardware you put in the tank so that you know they all came out.
I dont like the de-rust and run gas in it method. Gas nowadays has ethanol and oxygen in it, enough to make it rust again.
I would put a liner, but I also have had those fail eventually. But it does slow the rate a lot.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: Bluesmudge on October 06, 2021, 04:58:41 PM
It sounds like you have done the vinegar and bolts trick before, but my tip is to count how many pieces of hardware you put in the tank so that you know they all came out.
Good call out. Sometimes I get too eager and not write things down.
Quote from: The Buddha on October 07, 2021, 02:51:00 AM
I dont like the de-rust and run gas in it method. Gas nowadays has ethanol and oxygen in it, enough to make it rust again.
I would put a liner, but I also have had those fail eventually. But it does slow the rate a lot.
Cool.
Buddha.
Hey Buddha, I am not familiar with this liner that you are referring to. Would you mind sharing more information about it?
There's many of those including autoparts store ones. Not sure if any are better or worse.
I have run Kreem and POR-15 and they both have had failures in 15 yrs of ownership. Maybe time to try an autoparts store type.
I've made many posts about both liners in this forum going back 15 yrs+. Search and then post to that topic so I know what you're talking about.
Cool.
Buddha.
long overdue update:
A lot of life happened in between between now and my last post
Had to move and then a new job, didn't get a chance to work on the bike until recently.
Here are some pictures with updates:
The stockgas cap was seized. Tired a verified of methods via the internet but no luck. Ultimately I had to drill the gas cap and put in an aftermarket one. This is the one I purchased for those interested.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/255128655786?hash=item3b66da57aa:g:4K8AAOSwh3RhOizM
The install was straight forward but I have to push down the cap in order for the gas cap to close .
I am almost certain I over did the drilling- but at I still able to drill out the lock and remove the cap.
(https://i.imgur.com/cY8jYWal.jpg)
The blue tape was put there to protect the tank while I attempted to 'wiggle' the gas cap off (prior to me having to drill) but it didn't work.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZHeF1aoKQKo
(https://i.imgur.com/VhEEGtnl.jpg)
Here's a sneak peak of the rust I'm working with
(https://i.imgur.com/DnwlA1Fl.jpg)
New gas cap installed.
(https://i.imgur.com/b1Melfbl.jpg)
I went to costco to get a about 10 gallons worth of vinegar and threw about 100 screws in there. I'm going to let it sit for a day or two and then shake the tank around to see how much of the rust i can get out.
(https://i.imgur.com/IwYaBADl.jpg)
If this does a poor job I'll follow The Buddha's Kreem and POR-15 guides and see if I have better luck.
During the move broke the fuel filter and in need of another one. Last time I checked Bikebandit everything is in backorder.
I found replacements on Amazon and Ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/361510005789?hash=item542bacec1d:g:cmgAAOxy5QtSAs8x
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192041397362?epid=171259653&hash=item2cb68f2c72:g:I8cAAOSw629hOOOT
Or should I get something different altogether?
Adding this for reference for anyone else that's interested regarding Tank Rust Via GSTWIN wiki:
https://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Restoration.TankRust
It's been about a week since the vinegar sat in the tank. Poured half of it out to see progress and is happy with the results. Since I'm still waiting for the replacement fuel petcock to come in i'm going to leave the vinegar in there a little longer before cleaning it out, rinsing it with marvel mystery oil and gasoline before putting a full tank of fresh fuel in.
Here's what the vinegar was able to get out of the tank.
(https://i.imgur.com/lQx8KFvl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/L41Vtpvl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yEidTYnl.jpg)
before
(https://i.imgur.com/DnwlA1Fl.jpg)
after
(https://i.imgur.com/mdxQUFTl.jpg)
taking these screws out of the tank was challenging and time consuming.
there's 100 screws in total that I had to fish out.
I rinse the tank with water and then poured in the marvel mystery oil
i poured as much of the oil out and then did two rinses with gasoline.
going to do a 3rd rinse but this time will let the gas sit in the tank a little longer before doing a final flush.
Update:
Life and work and everything in between has made slow progress on this bike rebuild.
My latest update involves me stripping two carb screws, and now I'm asking for fellow GS500 owners on what options I have at this point. I tried using one of those screw bolt drill bits but it doesn't seem to work in this particular case.
I'm thinking either cutting off the brass plate to get to that last carb screw but I want to see if I could still somehow remove the stripped screw before going that route.
Your advice is greatly appreciated.
Here's a picture of my handywork, or lack of it.
(https://i.imgur.com/nkQJR65h.jpg)
I would try to use a small cold chisel to see if I could jar them loose--hit the screw outer diameter counter clockwise. Go ahead and get yourself a JIS number 2 screwdriver. They will fit your carb screws really well. The regular number 2 is not meant for the Japanese hardware.
Best wishes. I hope you enjoy your gs as much as I do.
My order of operations for stuck bolts is usually:
1. Penetrating Oil
2. Impact driver
3. Vice Grips
4. Slot the head with a dremel and use a flat-head screwdriver
5. Small left hand drill bit
6. Larger left hand drill bit <---this is usually the step that gets out most stuck bolts
7. East out <-- Gave up on these. They are hardened steel, so no fun to drill out if they break
8. Completely drill out and then helicoil to the original thread size
Update:
Was able to finally get the stripped screws out by cutting the screwhead so a flathead screw driver can work it lose. I'm sure the insane amount of PB-Buster I used was helpful as well. lesson learn, should've waited for the vesso JIS screwdrivers...
(https://i.imgur.com/R9nNqNSh.jpg)
Inside of the float bulb
(https://i.imgur.com/tEpklLgh.jpg)
New gasket and a bunch of carb cleaner later.
(https://i.imgur.com/EATMti3h.jpg)
Jets
(https://i.imgur.com/66d7Swrh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kXApgHdh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pRLCTm2h.jpg)
the main jet (the tall one) was stuck so this is what i did to get it out.
(https://i.imgur.com/CRJviWth.jpg)
Since I am replacement them anyways, no need to clean them.
(https://i.imgur.com/2e8rGqmh.jpg)
Using these m4-.7x10 to replace the JIS screws.
(https://i.imgur.com/UMvKhsfh.jpg)
Note. you need to have m4-7.x08 for the two screws that holds the plate for the emissions thing. standard hardware stores doesn't sell them so you will need to go to the specialty store or put two extra washers to compensate the longer screw.
Hopefully will have some time during the workday to continue working on the bike. This has been dragging a little TOO LONG. Stay tune!
Those look like the black oxide steel bolts they sell at home depot. Those rust really fast. Better to get stainless steel bolts or just fresh Suzuki screws.
Quote from: z315 on June 13, 2022, 01:35:35 AM
Update:
Was able to finally get the stripped screws out by cutting the screwhead so a flathead screw driver can work it lose. I'm sure the insane amount of PB-Buster I used was helpful as well. lesson learn, should've waited for the vesso JIS screwdrivers...
(https://i.imgur.com/R9nNqNSh.jpg)
Inside of the float bulb
(https://i.imgur.com/tEpklLgh.jpg)
New gasket and a bunch of carb cleaner later.
(https://i.imgur.com/EATMti3h.jpg)
Jets
(https://i.imgur.com/66d7Swrh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kXApgHdh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pRLCTm2h.jpg)
the main jet (the tall one) was stuck so this is what i did to get it out.
(https://i.imgur.com/CRJviWth.jpg)
Since I am replacement them anyways, no need to clean them.
(https://i.imgur.com/2e8rGqmh.jpg)
Using these m4-.7x10 to replace the JIS screws.
(https://i.imgur.com/UMvKhsfh.jpg)
Note. you need to have m4-7.x08 for the two screws that holds the plate for the emissions thing. standard hardware stores doesn't sell them so you will need to go to the specialty store or put two extra washers to compensate the longer screw.
Hopefully will have some time during the workday to continue working on the bike. This has been dragging a little TOO LONG. Stay tune!
Toss the plugged up jets, toss the screws you got from Home depot. I sell jet packs for your setup and guess what free allen head stainless bolts come in that pack. $25 shipped in CONUS. Clean the carbs and put these in and you're home free.
Let me know your setup and I'll get the right ones for that setup sent out.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: The Buddha on June 13, 2022, 11:39:25 AM
Quote from: z315 on June 13, 2022, 01:35:35 AM
Update:
Was able to finally get the stripped screws out by cutting the screwhead so a flathead screw driver can work it lose. I'm sure the insane amount of PB-Buster I used was helpful as well. lesson learn, should've waited for the vesso JIS screwdrivers...
(https://i.imgur.com/R9nNqNSh.jpg)
Inside of the float bulb
(https://i.imgur.com/tEpklLgh.jpg)
Bah I wish I knew you were selling jet packs before. I bought a rebuild kit from the dealership but they screws that came with it were JIS and I'm trying to avoid that.
What's wrong with the screws I got from the hardware store?
New gasket and a bunch of carb cleaner later.
(https://i.imgur.com/EATMti3h.jpg)
Jets
(https://i.imgur.com/66d7Swrh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kXApgHdh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pRLCTm2h.jpg)
the main jet (the tall one) was stuck so this is what i did to get it out.
(https://i.imgur.com/CRJviWth.jpg)
Since I am replacement them anyways, no need to clean them.
(https://i.imgur.com/2e8rGqmh.jpg)
Using these m4-.7x10 to replace the JIS screws.
(https://i.imgur.com/UMvKhsfh.jpg)
Note. you need to have m4-7.x08 for the two screws that holds the plate for the emissions thing. standard hardware stores doesn't sell them so you will need to go to the specialty store or put two extra washers to compensate the longer screw.
Hopefully will have some time during the workday to continue working on the bike. This has been dragging a little TOO LONG. Stay tune!
Toss the plugged up jets, toss the screws you got from Home depot. I sell jet packs for your setup and guess what free allen head stainless bolts come in that pack. $25 shipped in CONUS. Clean the carbs and put these in and you're home free.
Let me know your setup and I'll get the right ones for that setup sent out.
Cool.
Buddha.
Plugged everything together. bike doesn't want to start- why would things go according to plan?
Seeing a fuel leakage down the airbox. I set the lower petcock to prime. Could I have flooded the carbs?
Question: There is another connection on the right side of the tank (opposite of the bike petcock). That hose should be connected to the surge hose (#3 on the picture http://gs-500.info/images/0/05/Evaphoses.jpg). I'm pretty sure I'm right but just want to double check.
(https://i.imgur.com/I8oVJzml.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/246ZvNpl.jpg)
That link isn't working for me so I can't see what you're looking at... but maybe these diagrams will help:
https://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Main.HoseRouting
Since you've got drainage from the airbox hose, be sure to check the engine oil for fuel contamination.
Quote from: ShowBizWolf on June 27, 2022, 09:03:42 PM
That link isn't working for me so I can't see what you're looking at... but maybe these diagrams will help:
https://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Main.HoseRouting
Since you've got drainage from the airbox hose, be sure to check the engine oil for fuel contamination.
Yea those are the diagrams that I was using.
This bike needs an oil change, it's been sitting for so many years. I was hoping to get the engine started before changing the oil, but I may need to do that before hand.
Will need I need to drain the carb again?
Update!
The bike finally starts!!! The bike is running kinda rough and it's hard to stay running. Even with full chock it doesn't go up to 4k.
Bought two new spark plugs hoping that would help- waiting for that to come in the mail.
nice motor oil change and will soon get a new set of tires.
Maybe finally be able to take the bike out for a spin!
Sweeeeet
Update:
Celebration is a bit premature.
Went on a short ride around the block and noticed the bike will not stay on idle after even with full choke. Also noticed some burning smell coming from the exhaust.
Upon inspection I noticed the this on the top end of the engine.
I think at this point I may need to bring it to a profession to see what type of top end work I need to do.
(https://i.imgur.com/kR8X8BCl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ynBE7Pul.jpg)
What are you noticing at the top of the engine ? Oil ? Valve cover ? Take apart and clean and inspect for damage and replace if its got any damage. We usually get 3-10 remove and re-install per valve cover gasket before we replace. It is meant to be used a few times, it is neoprene. Just be careful. Gasket glue it to the valve cover and clean the surfaces well.
Cool.
Buddha.
Updates!
More life updates. I had to move AGAIN and ran out of time to troubleshoot the bike. I ended sending the bike to a local mechanic that still worked on carbs.
Mechanic said that the main issues that the bike were running poorly was that the new 'oem' jets that I put it was not the right ones (I remember asking the dealership if they are OEM and I guess they didn't know what they were talking about)
Luckily I still had the stock jets and he was able to clean and reinstall it.
The choke cable was damaged and that was fixed as well.
Slapped on some new tires and the bike was good ready to go.
Fast forward about a month ago my bike was actually stolen in the middle of the night. Luckily another local bike shop saw some guy with the bike and held my bike.
They broke the ignition and chopped off the rear fender and stole my tool kit, but that was the extent of the damage.
I JUST got the bike back this week. No longer having a garage, the best I can do now is to chain the bike to the frame. I have another chain on the way to give it additional security.
At this point I am considering moving my bike to a relative's house that has a private garage rather than chaining the bike to one of those bicycle post.
(https://i.imgur.com/XEtWaHC.jpg)
Bike Thief
(http://i.imgur.com/tAvSKRL.png) (https://imgur.com/tAvSKRL)
I have found that one of the best theft deterrents is putting the bike under a cloth motorcycle cover. It seems to make bikes invisible. The would be theif would have to go through the trouble of removing the cover to even find out what they might be stealing. You can make the cover even better by hiding a bell or two inside the cover so it makes a lot of noise if they try to remove the cover. You can also get covers with gromets that let you lock the cover on.
Other people like disc locks. I've never tried one myself
Quote from: Bluesmudge on June 05, 2023, 11:22:42 AMI have found that one of the best theft deterrents is putting the bike under a cloth motorcycle cover. It seems to make bikes invisible. The would be theif would have to go through the trouble of removing the cover to even find out what they might be stealing. You can make the cover even better by hiding a bell or two inside the cover so it makes a lot of noise if they try to remove the cover. You can also get covers with gromets that let you lock the cover on.
Other people like disc locks. I've never tried one myself
Yea I have one of those off-the-shelf polyester bike covers.
The bike is now chained but I'm getting to a point in my life where street riding is no longer fun (maybe I'm just getting older) and I just want to do track days. The daily commuting to work type of rides isn't really for me anymore.